Cockpit Teak

[glennd3]

I am going to remove and refinish my cockpit teak this winter. I have started with the eyebrow piece above the companion way hatch. I drilled a small hole in the middle of the plug then screwed a wood screw into the drilled hole. The plug then broke into pieces and I was able to unscrew the screw holding the wood onto the boat. I am going to get the forstner bit  to clean the hole. I will become a plug expert by the time I am finished. Some pictures.

[glennd3]

more.

[Roland Gendreau]

Good winter project.     What's your plan for refinishing?
I had great luck with using 3 coats of cetol , finished with 3 coats of clear gloss.

[scgunner]

Glenn,

Are you using the dog for scale or doesn't he just like getting his picture taken?

[glennd3]

I stripped the finish with paint stripper. I had 30 years of stuff to get off, it worked well. I applied the stripper then rubbed it off with steel wool, you need good gloves for this as it burns on your skin. I then used a palm sander on all sides. I then used teak Brite. When the wood was wet I was able to get out the remnants of the plugs. The factory used glue on the plugs. I will use cetol for the finish. The factory did not put anything on the backside or bottom of the wood. I plan to use cetol on all sides. Because the back side was not sealed the original finish "popped' on the edges allowing water under the finish. I will let the wood dry for a couple of days before I apply cetol, do not want any moisture trapped under the cetol. There is a line of finish that was very thick from previous applications of finish that pooled in the grove that I cannot get out, it is in the grove near the top. I tried scraping with a small screwdriver. Some pictures..

[glennd3]

more

[glennd3]

He is a killer!

Glenn,

Are you using the dog for scale or doesn't he just like getting his picture taken?

[Jon W]

Have you tried a heat gun to soften the finish in the groove then scraping it out?

[Noah]

Glenn- like silicone, steel wool is a no-no around boats. It rusts and leaves annoying bits to rust everywhere down the road. I would avoid it even at home for parts that you intend to bring back to the boat. Bronze wool is the way to go. My preference for the backs would be epoxy, although any good wood finish would work.

[glennd3]

Have you tried a heat gun to soften the finish in the groove then scraping it out?

I did not but will try,good idea.

[scgunner]

Bronze wool is the standard for boaters.

[glennd3]

I reattached the hood trim piece and I am waiting for teak plugs. I removed the eyebrow trim. I am getting better at removing the plugs. First need to sand the plugs so no finish remains. Lightly wet sanding seemed to make the plugs pop easier. I drill a hole in the middle of the plug then screw a wood screw into the hole until it bottoms out. Then I am able get a screwdriver onto the screw head then slowly turn the screw back and forth and the plug pops. Just as others have noted. The eyebrow pieces are secured with a larger screw than the hood trim. Again these pieces are not sealed on the backside from the factory. I will use the same process as before except with bronze wool.   Some pictures

[glennd3]

some more

[glennd3]

some more,

[Noah]

Glenn— it is probably overkill, but I would bed the pieces in either Butyl, Dolfinite, or Sikaflex, when you reinstall.