? Sudden overheating?

[KWKloeber]

there is no overflow tank on the boat.  I will have to look into one.  The Universal installation manual says the engine came with one. 

WBev

Many don't understand the differences between engine-manufacturer supplied and/or installed and boat manufacturer installed.  The Universal manuals don't always equal what Catalina decided (or not) to install. Sometimes, even if it's shown as part of the engine, the boat manufacturer might not have purchased it to install. 

Just one example:  The Universal manuals show a harness schematic with certain color coding.  One might think That's part of the engine and is on my boat.  Not so -- the coding/schematic is for UNIVERSAL's harness.  Catalina fabricated its own and the color-coding often doesn't match the Universal schematic.  It sometimes seems like they used whatever wire they had hanging around.  I mean, how difficult is it to continue on with the same color wire?  Really.

Owners often lament about an engine issue (blame Universal) when it's actually a Catalina's whoops.  And sometimes blame Catalina for what actually was a Universal screw-up (e.g., the 2" heat exchanger.)
Sometimes it's a perfect storm (e.g., Universal's harness/gummy bear plugs coupled with Catalina's ammeter on the panel.)

My point: just because a manual says "it's there" doesn't mean "it's there."  Heck, one Universal manual describes the radiator that's on our boats.  I guess Catalina forgot to install that.

A universal (small u) Dorman coolant recovery tank can be had from Autozone for <$9 to <$19 depending on the type and mount.


 

[WBev]

Ken,  thank you.  I will be checking out the local auto parts stores and seeing where I can mount the tank.  Your advice is spot on with what the boat builder does versus the engine builder/supplier, or any other sub part provider.

As of today, my two day shipping water pump has taken over 10 days to get here.  The Kumar Bros pump is squealing a little.  I loosened the belt and reduced the squeal.  I will have to do so again it seems. 

Bill

[KWKloeber]

PERFECT Bill. Good luck on the water pump replace. If you have any tips during, grab the cell phone camera.

Oh, Kumar didn't tell you it's 2-day shopping OUT of India - the remainder is pot luck? LOL

[Ron Hill]

Bill : As I said, the tank should be about the same height as the overflow outlet just below the pressure cap!!  It doesn't need to feed from the bottom.!!!  Look at my Mainsheet tech note article where I used a 1 qt Rubber Maid bottle.  A hell of a lot cheaper that the Westerbeke jug!!!   

A few thoughts

[WBev]

Ron - I read it. Real question is where on the wall I will put it, whether Rubbermaid or Autozone.  I will figure it out. Right now the overflow hose goes to the diaper.

[KWKloeber]

Ron - I read it. Real question is where on the wall I will put it, whether Rubbermaid or Autozone.  I will figure it out. Right now the overflow hose goes to the diaper.

I think Noah added a reservoir "recently" and had a pic, maybe it will show up here.

[Ron Hill]

Bill : How about around the corner in the lower aft cabin???!!!

A thought

[Noah]

Nope: i do have a coolant recovery tank but it was on my boat when I bought it. The "other stuff" is my glow plug solenoid...(successful foe me, but controversial for some).

[KWKloeber]

Bill here's some other pix in this thread, and repeats Noah's (apologies for my CRS.)
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=9551.0

[Rortega46]

I am posting on this topic because yesterday after motoring for about 90 minutes my temp gauge showed sudden overheating (240).  Curiously the overheat alarm did not ever sound. I did not check water flow from exhaust, but then cleaned the sea strainer and changed the impeller. Water flow from exhaust thereafter was normal, but temp gauge continue to show overheating so I got a tow back to the marina.

Today I confirmed all connections good on the back of the temp gauge and on the sending unit.  I then found a wire disconnected from the thermostat cover. I don't know what this wire is for but thought I had solved  the problem. No such luck.  After starting the engine and running for 15 to 20 minutes the gauge again rose to 240°. I checked the external engine temperature with an infrared thermometer, as suggested in an earlier post, at a thermostat cover & on the engine block & near the radiator cap with an infrared thermometer and got readings up between 150-160, so something is screwy with the temp gauge.

[KWKloeber]

Randy

Post a pic of your TStat cap and wire.

There's Teleflex gauge troubleshooting instructions that I posted on the Wiki that gives you the steps for checking that. 
It could be a bad gauge, a bad sender, or a bad circuit.
Since it's more easily got get to, test it out using the sender wire to see how the gauge reacts, then test at the gauge itself if the  first round doesn't reveal the cause. Then last you can test the sender resistance in room temp and hot water or replace it (about 25 b.)

[Rortega46]

Ken:
I tried posting a pic of the thermostat wire connection from iPhone but it errored out saying file too large.  How do I post a pic from iPhone photos?

[Noah]

Randy—An easy way with an iPhone photo is to email it to yourself. It will ask you to select a size. Select a reduced size from choice (up to 500), then download it from your email back to you photos. Then use that "new sized" image to upload to the site.

[KWKloeber]

Randy
The one at Sailor's 6 o'clock is the temp gauge sender.
The one at sailor's 2 o'clock is the high temp alarm switch.

Disconnect the gauge S wire and the gauge *should* pin low.
Ground the gauge S wire and the gauge *should* pin high.

If that doesn't happen then pull the panel and check the gauge the same way.

You have the convoluted B engine wiring scheme that can screw up the temp alarm.  If you ground the temp switch S wire the alarm *should* sound.

Let us know....

[Rortega46]

Today I did Ken's suggested tests.

From the sender @ the thermostat cover I disconnected the S wire, turned the key on, and the temp gauge pin was high, not low as expected. Then I grounded the S wire and the temp gauge continue to pin high. I assume this does not confirm the sender is OK, but confirms there is a problem from the sender wire at the thermostat through to the temp gauge.

Next I opened the instrument panel, disconnected the S wire from the back of the temp gauge, turned the key on and the gauge pinned low as expected. Then I put a jumper on the back of the temp gauge from the S terminal to the ground terminal and the gauge pinned high as expected. I assume this confirms the temp gauge is working correctly.

It appears the problem is likely not the sender or the temp gauge, but most likely the wiring from the sender to the temp gauge. Is this correct?  Where to next?