Engine loosing coolant

[Ron Hill]

 pby :  A saltwater leak from your raw water pump can ruin a lot of metal parts below it - is an understatement!!!!

I've known C34 owners that have had to replace the oil pan because the raw water pump leaked and the oil pan rusted a hole!!!

A thought

[Ron Hill]

pby : Another thing to think about :
If your leak is coolant - that Prestone mix can do a job on an engine mount rubber!!

A thought

[KWKloeber]

I've known C34 owners that have had to replace the oil pan because the raw water pump leaked and the oil pan rusted a hole!!!

AND one that nearly had to replace a gear cover!! 

[Stu Jackson]

AND one that nearly had to replace a gear cover!! 

And one that actually had to (Greg Sherwood, on SF Bay).  I don't think he ever found one, least last I heard.

[KWKloeber]

Stu I COMPLETELY forgot about that.  Yes, I located him one in a boneyard.

Since then I've been trying to get my hands on half decent ones to refurbish and hold, just in case.

[waughoo]

I had a leaking raw water pump and for all the reasons stated above, I put it at the top of the list when I found out.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : That's why you need to take a peek at the engine when it is running.  The MK I C34s have a door on the starboard side to look at the M25XP water pump and a door in the head to look at the M25XPB water pump. 

Those raw water pumps do NOT leak when the engine is NOT running!!!   

A thought

[pbyrne]

I refilled the engine a couple of days ago and placed some shop towels around the engine.

It looks like the leak may be coming from high up on the engine at the rear of the manifold, where there is a connection that is wrapped in heat protection.  Also, it appears the hose on the heat exchanger looks cracked, and needs replaced.

I don't really know what I'm looking at or the implications.  Can anyone shed some light on what these photos are showing?

[pbyrne]

And of course the recover tank, which I think is just up for replacement.  I don't see anything wrong with the hose and it looks like there is evidence of the clamp to tank connection leaking.  Clamp tension looks ok, but may have been too tight and cracked the plastic.

[KWKloeber]

I see drips hanging on at the bottom of the hose loop, but it looks like something was also leaking down the side of the hull, maybe from behind or at the top of the overflow reservoir?

The exhaust flange and exhaust riser is wrapped w/ insulation. 
If you have a leaky exhaust flange gasket or loose exhaust flange bolts, coolant can leak out from the exhaust manifold (It's screwy, but the gasket that sits between the exhaust flange and the exhaust manifold, separates the exhaust path from the coolant in the exhaust manifold.  if the gasket is damaged or on backwards, coolant is pushed out the exhaust.  For the leak to exit there, there would need to be a loose exhaust flange (joint open) otherwise coolant would simply exit out w/ the exhaust gasses.
A long shot to consider last.

FYI Westerbeke spray paints the engine (and hoses) when it's together so you MIGHT be seeing cracked paint that looks like a cracked hose.  I'm not saying don't replace it if it's "past its time."

Replace all the standard hose clamps w/ ABA or AWAB clamps!
ultimategarage.com a good source, less $$$ than worst marine and Steeve is a good guy.

[glennd3]

I see drips hanging on at the bottom of the hose loop, but it looks like something was also leaking down the side of the hull, maybe from behind or at the top of the overflow reservoir?

The exhaust flange and exhaust riser is wrapped w/ insulation. 
If you have a leaky exhaust flange gasket or loose exhaust flange bolts, coolant can leak out from the exhaust manifold (It's screwy, but the gasket that sits between the exhaust flange and the exhaust manifold, separates the exhaust path from the coolant in the exhaust manifold.  if the gasket is damaged or on backwards, coolant is pushed out the exhaust.  For the leak to exit there, there would need to be a loose exhaust flange (joint open) otherwise coolant would simply exit out w/ the exhaust gasses.
A long shot to consider last.



FYI Westerbeke spray paints the engine (and hoses) when it's together so you MIGHT be seeing cracked paint that looks like a cracked hose.  I'm not saying don't replace it if it's "past its time."

Replace all the standard hose clamps w/ ABA or AWAB clamps!
ultimategarage.com a good source, less $$$ than worst marine and Steeve is a good guy.

Ken would you know what size clamps would you order that would fit most the hoses on my boat? I would like to replace most of them.

[KWKloeber]

Most on the boat or most on your engine?

[KWKloeber]

AND one that nearly had to replace a gear cover!! 

Stu what did you end up using?  I know originally JB, but wasn't there another repair material you considered? 
Did you use that?

-k

[glennd3]

Most on the boat or most on your engine?

Engine

[Ron Hill]

pby : From your pictures, you definitely need to take off your coolant recovery tank and inspect it.  I'll guess that the tank is your problem.
To repair that tank pin hole?/crack?  I'd clean that plastic and use electric glue. 

I don't think that you need to replace your hose clamps - your choice.

A few thoughts