Traveler and Main Sheet Block upgrade

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glennd3

My impact uses a hammer. You hit the driver and it turns the screw slowly about a quarter turn. It works well because when you strike it with the hammer it also keeps pressure on the screw so it does not strip the head. Screws that are locked up just suck!

Quote from: waughoo on January 24, 2021, 10:32:33 AM
I used my makita impact driver and had no success.  I even went through about 14 bits (impact rated) and still had no joy.  I'm envious of your success.  How come you are waiting till spring to install?
Glenn Davis
Knot Yet
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1053
TR/WK
M25XP
Patapsco River
Chesapeake Bay Maryland

Stu Jackson

Quote from: glennd3 on January 24, 2021, 11:33:26 AM>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

How long are your lines for the traveler?


Mine are 27 feet EACH.

I urge you to measure your own before you buy.

I used bowlines to connect them to the sheaves and have figure 8 knots at the ends after the cabintop cam cleats with not much to spare.

5/16" - 3/8" is too big, do NOT make them bigger than the manual says or else they will swell and eventually bind.  Ask many of us how we know...

All the best, looks great.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

waughoo

I dont know the exact length.  They are a bit on the short side for me as there wont be much tail left in the cam cleat when the traveler is hard over.  It will work for now though.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Ron Hill

Glenn : Don't forget to use some "Chapstick" on the threads of those end cap bolts!!   :thumb:
A thought
Ron, Apache #788

waughoo

Got my turn blocks installed today at the boat.  I still need to final install the cam cleats, but they have been located and epoxy potted to seal the core.  Tomorrow I'll set them.

Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Stu Jackson

Looks great, Alex.  Does the line go under the dodger?
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

waughoo

#21
That is the plan Stu.  It was a bit tricky with the head vent hatch right there.  There wasnt much free space to through bolt due to the bulkhead gusset and the door frame.  I put the cam cleat on a riser to make it a bit easier to latch the cam.  I look forward to seeing it all done with the dodger in place.  It should really dress the boat up!

EDIT: in trolling the BBS I have now seen how your traveler is set up Stu.  My goal was to keep from having ANY penetrations in the glass of my dodger.  Thats the main reason i brought it down that low. The dodger i'm going with will have Markelon windows which are rather ridgid.  It seemed a good idea to avoid having anything going through them.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Noah

#22
I used rotating Spinlock cleats on edge of cabin top and went through dodger canvas. Photos:
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

waughoo

Those are slick cleats.  I would have preferred to have them further back for ease of use but there was a lot to get around on the cabin top in this area.

In an effort to reduce head strikes I went for the use of sex nuts to get the lowest profile on the cabin top.  Notably important on the stbd side as it is directly over the stove standing area.  Here are some photos...

Note... finally got a reasonably easy to use photo resizer for my phone.  Hence the multitude of photos :-)
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Ed Shankle

I thought the risers (correct term?) supporting the main traveler were hollow? If so, what's the risk of the fair lead getting pulled off?

Regards,
Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

waughoo

They are indeed hollow.  The layup there is quite thick.  I used 3/4" stainless sheet meatal screws with truss heads and a bit of 5200 on the back side.  I used an impact screw gun to set the screws applying copious amounts of pressure and slow speed.  The amount of torque applied gives me a fair amount of confidence they arent going anywhere.

I will admit that I was hoping for some sort of wood behind that layup, and was quite dissapointed when the bit just popped through.  Once i had the holes though, I was commited.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Noah

That was part of my reasoning to through-bolt the fairleads on the cabin top.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

waughoo

Quote from: Noah on January 30, 2021, 08:23:36 AM
That was part of my reasoning to through-bolt the fairleads on the cabin top.

After the first hole in the riser popped through, I seriously considered this re-design.  Hopefully I will never find out that it DOESN'T hold.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Jon W

The PO installed mine in the risers like yours. I haven't had any problems.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

waughoo

Quote from: Jon W on January 30, 2021, 04:42:16 PM
The PO installed mine in the risers like yours. I haven't had any problems.

Thanks for the input!!  That is good to hear.  I suspect with the purchase blocks the load at that turning block is quite light.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte