Do you fill the gap between cabin sole boards and fiberglass?

[Kyle Ewing]

I'm planning to refinish interior cabin sole boards this off-season.  I'd like to seal the gap between the wood and fiberglass to keep out water, dirt, dead flies, wire insulation and all the other stuff that ends up on the floor when reinstalling.  Any downsides to doing this?

I'm considering using Life Caulk teak brown.  What have you used?

[Stu Jackson]

Yes, to ideas:  Please, don't do it.

It's really much easier to lift them and then clean the edges.  If need be.

The flex alone would would preclude a reasonable seal.  Any tube-based material would be hard to ever get off, and butyl tape has some of the same drawbacks.

The edges aren't even, even. 

I don't think it's an issue.  A solution in search of a problem.

[waughoo]

I have considered some weep holes when I replace mine.  It seems like a reasonable idea to keep water from eating up the sole boards due to the water staying in there till evaporation happens.

[wingman]

I'm facing the same issue, the main floorboard has absorbed so much water over the years, the plywood is breaking down and the T&H veneer is separating.

The main problem area is adjacent to the galley/head area. I suppose it is water is coming from head, galley, companionway, etc., that finds its way under the sole and never drains into the bilge.

I'll have to replace the wood, but I would like to at least mitigate the original problem.

My plan at the moment is to seal the back, edges, and screw holes of the new floorboard with epoxy.

[glennd3]

I used west epoxy to "glue" my sole panels where they began to split. They have stayed together for a couple of years.

[mark_53]

I'm facing the same issue, the main floorboard has absorbed so much water over the years, the plywood is breaking down and the T&H veneer is separating.

The main problem area is adjacent to the galley/head area. I suppose it is water is coming from head, galley, companionway, etc., that finds its way under the sole and never drains into the bilge.

I'll have to replace the wood, but I would like to at least mitigate the original problem.

My plan at the moment is to seal the back, edges, and screw holes of the new floorboard with epoxy.

Looks like someone lets the shower overflow or the pump is not working.  That area should remain dry.  I don't think trying to seal the panel is the answer.  Prevention works better.  Depending what the other side of the board looks like, I would put it out in the sun to kill the mold and then just keep that area dry.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Most of the MK I C34s already have weep holes drilled in to the floor board pans. 

The maintenance tip - I wrote about in the Mainsheet tech notes in the early 1990s, was to seal the cut edges and the exposed/untreated bottom of the T/H floorboards.

A thought

[Kyle Ewing]

Thanks all for the feedback.  I believe the bottoms and sides of my wood panels have been sealed so they're in pretty good shape.  I've found a lot of dirt ends up under them, similar to what you find in the notches on the stairs, but I'm hearing that it'll be difficult to seal given flex.  The fix  might be as simple as investing in a small vacuum instead of sweeping or accepting that every year or two I need to pull the boards and clean under them.

[Noah]

A vacuum is a must!

[Steve Hansen]

Picked up a gallon dry vac at ace hardware. Stores well and good suction to clear the gaps in minutes.

[waughoo]

Guys : Most of the MK I C34s already have weep holes drilled in to the floor board pans. 

The maintenance tip - I wrote about in the Mainsheet tech notes in the early 1990s, was to seal the cut edges and the exposed/untreated bottom of the T/H floorboards.

A thought

I haven't pulled mine up yet.  I'll double check when i do.  The plan is to fully seal with epoxy and top coat with some sort of varnish/hardwood floor finish.

[scgunner]

We all have water overflow accidents from time to time. What normally happens to me is a guest will leave the pump lever up allowing the toilet bowl to overflow. I've found the best remedy is to immediately pull up the floor boards and let them dry upside down in the sun for a couple of days. My boards do have some black stains underneath but they are still sound. That picture looks like that board has sat in water for a long time.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : I don't believe that filling in the edges on the T/H floor boards is the answer!!  There is way to much flexing of that floor.  Just get a small Vac and keep the edges/slots clean. 

Also I found that if you remove the T/H boards it's best to add a finishing washer to the screws so they don't bury themselves in the wood and become ineffective!!   

A few thoughts