New Prop Shaft installation: feedback requested

[Patches]

In preparation for (1) new SS "A-19" shaft, (2) new split coupling, (3) new cutless bearing, and (4) new stuffing box, I hauled out and removed the old versions of the above.  I didn't bother trying to uncouple the old bronze staft from the old coupler, and just cut it with a hack saw flush with the coupler.

I had already removed the cutless bearing by pressing it out with Dan's tool.  Based on the many, many prior posts on the subject, I lubed the old shaft and managed to pull it past the starboard side of my newer elliptical rudder.  (The prior owner replaced the original Mark I rudder with an elliptical rudder after a "sailing by braille" incident.)  Though successful, it was "very" tight.  I cut the the shaft at the coupling in order to to gauge difficulty of re-installing the new SS shaft which is now being made.  Getting the old shaft out revealed it "rode" on the front left side of the strut opening while I pulled it past the rudder.

My question is:  given that (1) I'm spending to put in a new "true" shaft, and (2) having read at least one post by Maine Sail about the possibility of messing up the trueness of the new shaft by re-installing by pushing it past the rudder, back through the strut, and back into the shaft log--should I really just drop the rudder to put in the new shaft?  Or, are others who have re-installed a stainless shaft (by pushing it past the rudder) convinced it has not affected trueness of the new shaft?   

I ask, because I am working alone in a yard some distance from my house, and it will definitely increase the time to re-install the prop shaft.  I would have to go into my aft lazarette, tear out the propane locker and shelf, etc..

Many thanks,

Patches         

[Noah]

I have RR the shaft without removing rudder but I do NOT have an elliptical rudder. I have the original rudder. IMO- if you were able  to get the old shaft past the rudder the new one should go back in without damage. I would grease it up a bit. You may also have to touch-up some scratches/fairing on the rudder when done. I believe the stainless shaft is stiff enough to stay true. One bonus to removing the rudder is you get to thoroughly inspect it, but as the rudder is "new" I would not go through the extra work to drop it.

[Ron Hill]

Patches : You should not have a problem with the new shaft because the old cutless beading has been removed!! Just slide the new shaft thur the strut and get it connected to the engine.  You should have plenty of room to go by the rudder, because there is no cutless bearing!!

Then you can press in the new cutless bearing.

A thought

[Bill Shreeves]

Patches, As Ron mentioned, I had no problem installing my new SS prop shaft past my standard rudder with the cutlass bearing NOT installed.  I'd describe the pressure form the rudder as rubbing and I had no concern with that nominal rubbing possibly damaging the shaft.   I can't speak for an elliptical rudder.

Give it a shot without the cutlass bearing installed and see how much pressure is required to install.  IMO, if enough pressure is needed that a lubricant is considered to get past the rudder, personally, I'd re-think the approach.  Drop the rudder or relieve a small amount of material from the obstruction to reduce the pressure needed.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : There should be no problem installing a new drive shaft as long the cutless bearing had been removed.

Also remember that the elliptical rudder differs from the original rudder - because the added surface is BEHIND the pivot point of the rudder! I don't believe that the new rudder design is thicker at the pivot point (center surface covering the stainless column)!!

A thought

[Patches]

Thanks for your input.  I also ran this by the guy making the new shaft and he seems to agree that installation of the new prop shaft by sliding past the rudder, with the cutless bearing removed, should not affect the trueness of the shaft.  So I'll give it a go.

Always appreciate it when you guys weigh in!

Patches

[Noah]

Patches, what made you select A19 vs A22 shafting. Cost? Availability?