Well that stinks...(like diesel) plus Plastic Gate Valves

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scgunner

Jonathan,

Congrats on your new(to you)C34, it's great boat you won't be sorry, well let's say you won't be sorry very often.

Just remember your boat is 32yrs old, this won't be the last thing you'll have to replace. With winter setting in you have time to inspect and really get to know your boat.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

jonathanc34

Thank you!

I actually bought an old boat on purpose to force me to become acquainted with its systems and maintenance.

The water system needs work. One of the tank valves has a very slow leak, and much of the work done by the previous owner was quick and economic. I keep finding small leaks and questionable choices. Planning a new water manifold for spring.

The bilge pump was connected without a fuse using wrapped wires and electrical tape. I am going to replace it with a higher volume pump electronic sensing and new hose in the spring.
'Owenoke' 1988 C34 Hull 548 Tall/Wing M-25XP
Worton Creek Marina, MD

She'll make .5 past 6 knots. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts. (I've added some special modifications myself.)

Stu Jackson

Quote from: jonathanc34 on November 19, 2020, 08:44:41 AM


The water system needs work. One of the tank valves has a very slow leak, and much of the work done by the previous owner was quick and economic. I keep finding small leaks and questionable choices. Planning a new water manifold for spring.

I had a leak from one of my two plastic valves.  I replaced it with a metal valve.

But then I took the old one apart and found that all it needed was a new O ring.

You might want to investigate your leak before you do all that work.

Good luck.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

jonathanc34

Yeah I thought about that too. But the plumbing under the sink is a mess.
And it's experience I want.
'Owenoke' 1988 C34 Hull 548 Tall/Wing M-25XP
Worton Creek Marina, MD

She'll make .5 past 6 knots. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts. (I've added some special modifications myself.)

Ron Hill

jonathan : Look in the C34 Mainsheet tech note and WiKi as there are numerous articles and posts on changing/improving the plumbing under the sink.  Especially the sink drains!!

A thought - Good Luck on your "new" 1988 C34   :clap
Ron, Apache #788

scgunner

Jonathan,

I'm with Stu one this one, I really like the plastic valves, plastic is much more resistant to the marine environment and much less likely to freeze up, corrode, or disintegrate like metal valves can sometimes do, especially if you don't regularly exercise them.

Stu,

Good to know these valves can be rebuilt, I didn't know that and I've never seen any replacements for sale anywhere.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Ron Hill

Jonathan : A number of us have change out those plastic gate water valves under the galley sink with plastic ball valves. 

Much simpler and easier to operate - so some plastic valves still work!!    :thumb:

A Thought
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

Quote from: scgunner on November 20, 2020, 08:15:47 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Stu,

Good to know these valves can be rebuilt, I didn't know that and I've never seen any replacements for sale anywhere.

It's not so much as "rebuild" as it is just simply taking part of it apart.

Under the actuator (the wheel you turn) is the stem and then a plastic nut  (the bonnet) over the body of the valve.  Just back off the bonnet nut and it will slide up the stem enough to the handle to expose the O ring.  Remove and replace.  It's rather simple.

My local ACE hardware store was really great, well stocked with all sorts of boat gear, like O rings and stainless hardware fasteners.  Here, I've found Home Hardware to be very good, and easier than Home Depot to find stuff 'cuz the staff is much more helpful.

Good luck.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ed Shankle

Unfortunately, my Ace experience wasn't so good. Bought new plastic valves and barbed fittings, and when I testing the fittings for fit with hoses, they were too big even though stamped as 1/2". So beware! I ultimately got bronze valves and fittings that match the hoses. To be installed in the spring.

Regards,
Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

scgunner

Stu,

I thought taking something apart, replacing faulty parts, then reassembling was the definition of rebuild, in any case still good information, the kind which seems to be in abundance on this board.       
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Stu Jackson

Kevin, the reason I wrote: "It's not so much as "rebuild" as it is just simply taking part of it apart." is that it really isn't a rebuild.

I'd call replacing the seals in the raw water pump a rebuild.  In this case, it's simply a matter of unscrewing one nut, and replacing an O ring.  It doesn't involve removing or replacing hard to access parts or more than one simple thing.  That's all.  Just a matter of "degree of difficulty," like in gymnastics.  :D

I just wanted to explain to the group how really easy it is.

Ed, sorry to hear about your experience.  I usually test fit stuff before I leave the store.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."