Change Oil Filter without Draining Oil?

[kurt]

Folks,

My oil filter has a drip that refuses to go away.  I did a recent oil change not long ago.

Looks like I can change the oil filter given its height above the pan without removing oil.   Want to be sure though!

Am I correct?  Universal M25xp.

Thanks,

Kurt

[sselinger]

Yes you can, but you will lose some of the oil which is inside the filter.
Steve

[KWKloeber]

>>> Am I correct?<<<

You don't need anyone to tell you that. 
Just hold the dipstick next to the dipstick tube to show you where the oil level is.

[kurt]

Thanks all.

I can confirm all the supportive comments regarding changing oil filter while leaving the oil in the engine.

The good news is I replaced the WIX with a Fram 3593A and the leaking has stopped.

The news I was a bit concerned about was that I had to use the wrench after initial seating of the filter to get it on the mount.  Before committing to use the wrench, I checked two separate Frams and both required wrench after initial spin or two.  Also, the previously leaking Wix filter does screw more easily on.   The threads on the mount looked fine.   After re-checking that 3593a is compatible, I used these wrench to get several rotations until the seal squeezed some.  No more leak.

At this point, I am trying to put this in the worry about it next oil change but failing.  Besides cross threading or perhaps just a tight fit, anything else I may be missing here?  I see the oil filter adapter/mount is a $35 part so replacing that seems worse case here to me.

Thanks,

Kurt

[Ron Hill]

Kurt : I'd be more inclined to think that it is the threads on the Fram filter rather than the threads on the engine.  Especially when you said the Wix filter just spun on!! 

A thought

[KWKloeber]

Kurt

If your filter is leaking with more than a quarter, at most a half turn Past hand snug, something is wrong.
"Leaky" threads should be irrelevant- they are INSIDE the gasket between the filter and the filter land on the gear cover.  Look for a bag gasket or corroded land on the gear cover?

[Ron Hill]

Kurt : To answer your original question about just changing the oil filter.  Remember your engine is installed at an angle with the oil in the aft end of the oil pan.  Also look and you'll see that the filter is higher, above the oil pan and in the hi front of the engine.

A few thoughts

[Breakin Away]

T...The good news is I replaced the WIX with a Fram 3593A and the leaking has stopped.

The news I was a bit concerned about was that I had to use the wrench after initial seating of the filter to get it on the mount.  Before committing to use the wrench, I checked two separate Frams and both required wrench after initial spin or two.  Also, the previously leaking Wix filter does screw more easily on...

Just quick thought: I'm not sure what is causing your leak. It could be corrosion or debris on the filter's seat. But personally, I spend a few extra bucks to buy genuine Universal oil (and fuel) filters to be 100% sure I'm complying with the right specification. Hassles like the one that you are having aren't worth it to save a couple dollars a year.

[KWKloeber]

>>> genuine Universal oil (and fuel) filters <<<

Understand that Westerbeke isn't in the filter manufacturing business and simply buys and paints them pretty like. They keep their employees busy repainting stuff you can buy for less elsewhere.

When I queried my Kubota equipment dealer about which filters I should use he didn't even recommend Kb filters, he recommended FleetGuard.  The Universal (Kb) fuel filter is inferior to FleetGuard in terms of filtering efficiency.  I've posted about that b4 and I believe put the comparisons on the wiki.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Ken is correct - Westerbeke or Kubota or Ford do NOT make their own filters - they buy them from a filter Company like FRAM!!

A thought

[Breakin Away]

I never said that Westerbeke makes their own filters. But they set the spec, test their selected OEM parts, and offer the officially recommended oil and fuel filters. If you get something different, it might be better, but maybe not. You just don't know. A more efficient filter might have a bigger pressure drop. It might be great when new, but might clog faster. It might have different specs on its bypass valve. It might have slightly different threads, as OP mentioned. Every design involves tradeoffs - better at some things, worse at others.

So unless someone has stripped off Wb's paint and revealed the OEM's exact filter model, there's a risk to getting something different.

YBYC, but I use the genuine filters that Wb sells. Maybe OP wishes he did too, maybe not. I'm just providing an alternative that nobody here has suggested.

[Robert Mann]

Personally I go to the nearest Kubota industrial engine dealer and buy the filter for the correct base engine.  That way you have a filter that has been tested by the original engine manufacturer.  Certain aftermarket filters are not very well made.  Just for interest, WIX is owned by Mann & Hummel, a German filter manufacturer, who use them as a second brand (unfortunately I am not the heir). As Ron correctly states most engine companies don't make filters.  Cummins is one exception as they own Fleetguard.  In engine design, filtration gets a lot of attention, especially fuel filtration on later electronic engines.  If anyone buys a late model, common rail electronically controlled diesel engine, do not be tempted to "cheap out" on the filter it will get spendy quickly.

[KWKloeber]

I never said that Westerbeke makes their own filters. But they set the spec, test their selected OEM parts

Sorry, I never wanted to imply that you did say that.  But my point was that (IMO) the reasoning would be logical if owners chose to use the ORIGINAL engine manufacturer's filter (i.e., Kubota.)  Does anyone believe that Westerbeke TESTS filters that it buys and repaints?  Really?  Believe that about Wb quality control (not to mention its poor quality assurance,) and I have a handful of NEW Wb parts that were so poorly manufactured that they cannot be installed.  Wb QC is so bad it's pathetic (I mean what Wb puts out now, not what Universal used to.) 

A "take it for what its worth" -- I personally don't hold in high confidence the QC of a company that assembles engines to put into boats that (for two examples,) to save 20 bucks, uses untinned, Type 2 SAE wire -- not tinned, Type 3 "marine" wire, and installs non ABYC compliant wiring systems on its A and B series engines.

Owners need to decide for themselves what to use, but they shouldn't ass/u/me that, if it meets minimum standards, it's the BEST for the engine.  It's a passing grade, not the Dean's list.

An example - the reason the Kb dealer puts Fleetgard on the equipment they service is, for one, the Kb and Wb fuel filter are rated by NIST criteria @ "absolute efficiency" = 25 micron, while the FG is rated 20% better @ 20 micron.

I'm just providing information, everyone needs to decide whether or not to use it when making their decisions.