Electric windlass circuit breaker button stuck

[Stairmaster]

Hi! I'd like to introduce myself and say hello ! I'm relativity new here, but I reference this forum frequently and it's been a great resource! My partner bought a 1994 Catalina 34 this January and we've been loving the boat.

We recently ran into an issue with the circuit breaker on the panel while testing the electric windlass. On our boat you push the 80amp button IN to turn on the windlass. However, the button got stuck and we had to power down and remove the breaker all together to turn it off. We finally realized that the button was just stuck IN !! We looked at replacing the unit and it's about $110 dollars and not the most ideal circuit breaker. We will eventually upgrade breakers, but in the mean time is there a way to "grease" the button so it doesn't stick IN ? We also checked and the breaker appears to run off the house batteries and NOT the start batteries.

Here is a picture of the breaker with the button "out" or in the off position.

[KWKloeber]

IIWMB, I'd use a liberal dose of electronic contact cleaner and "work it baby."
Followed by a scant shot of silicone spray or better yet, dry PTFE spray and "work it baby" again.

-k

[Ron Hill]

Stair : Radio Shack has a spray call "Contact Cleaner".  It lubes and cleans the contacts.  Give it a try!!

A thought

[J_Sail]

One of my prohibitions against the use of silicone is near electrical contacts that are subject to arcing. That means relays, switches and circuit breakers. The reason is that an arc can convert silicone to silicon-carbide, an extremely hard insulator. The process is slow, so it's mostly a risk on relay contacts that actuate frequently.  So, probably no significant harm using it on your windlass breaker, but ideally, you would be better off using a product that does not contain silicone.

jeremy

[Stu Jackson]

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We also checked and the breaker appears to run off the house batteries and NOT the start batteries.

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Which is where it should be placed.  The windlass is not a short momentary load, you can run it for anywhere from half a minute to much longer.  It really is a deep cycle type load.  One would be running the engine at the time anyway, right?

[Jim Hardesty]

I use

https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaning-products-for-electronics/cleaners/specialty-cleaners/nu-trol-control-cleaner-401b

then excercise the braker.  Mine was frozen when I first got Shamrock.  Hasn't been a problem since.  The 5 oz lasts me years.
Jim

[lazybone]

I personally would never trust a malfunctioning breaker that was "reconditioned" with spray lubes.  They're not simple switches.

[Mick Laver]

My breaker has started acting up (stuck OFF, fortunately) and rather than futz with lubricants I'm inclined to just replace it. It is a 20+ year-old boat, after all. Catalina says it's undoubtedly a Carling breaker, but part number? The owner's manual says simply "BREAKER, WINDLASS, 80A". Anyone replaced one of these guys? Windlass is a Maxwell VW500.

Thanks.

[KWKloeber]

Hey Mick

Can you match it up in one if the catalogs?
https://www.carlingtech.com/circuit-protection

[Mick Laver]

Thanks, Ken. I haven't pulled it yet but I'll see if I can get a match. Catalina (Julian) suggested Blue Sea may be marketing them for Carling now.

[KWKloeber]

Likely so.
Looking for a specific combination or something or other that BS didn't market so I got it directly thru CT.

Is it a PB breaker or one like this?



When you verify it PM me and I can likely order it wholesale for you (if you don't advertise it.)