Steering Wire Replacement - Take Up Eye/Cable Removal

[kurt]

Hello everyone,

I have seen some postings on this subject.    My steering cable has a barb with more on the way so it is time to replace.

Context is around the removal of the wire cable and the "take up eyes."  Is the process below correct?

1)  Remove two cable tightening nuts on the take up eyes.
2)  Pull the "take up eye" off the radial drive wheel along with the attached wire. 
3)  Back off the clamps to release the "take up eye" in the immense room of the aft cabin.

Some have said that I will need to release the clamps first, then I can remove the cable and then remove the "take up eyes."  Those clamps on top of the radial drive look difficult to reach when in position.

This is one of those projects I want to have detailed out before I touch anything.

Kurt

[Ron Hill]

Kurt : Before I'd take on that Project I'd call Edson @ 508-955-9711 and talk with Will Keen.  Just to make sure I had the correct procedure.

You didn't mention your Hull# and what kind of transom you have!!

A thought

[Noah]

Check the Edson website: I believe there is both written instructions and a video on replacing cables and maintenance that may be helpful.

[kurt]

Thanks everyone.   Just removed my steering cable & chain from my 1988.

I saw it mentioned elsewhere but must remove the propane holder to get top down access to the eye bolts.  Then it is straightforward to remove the wire clamps.   I first removed the tightening screws on the eye bolts then the cable connected to the eye.  Generally would be easier with rear water tank removed as well which I did not do.

I was thinking all for one or two broken strands.  But then found a couple of more severe trouble spots - I believe one problem area is were the cable makes the sharp bend from the eye bolt onto the steering drive/quadrant.   Also discovered that the cotter pin holding chain to cable was nearly worked out (or never put in place correctly.).  Also found some broke strands on top of the thimble connected to chain.  So, glad I went through this exercise.

Kurt
.

[Ron Hill]

Kurt : I hope that you checked to make sure that the pins in the idler pulleys were not the original bronze pins, but the new stainless pins.
Edson put out a bulletin and it was in the Mainsheet tech notes on that a while back (older C34s)!!   

A thought

[kurt]

Ron,

Yes, thanks I did.   I found a bit of wear on the load side of the pins but nothing that would impact their integrity.   So, I did as thought below which was flip the pins around to expose the non-worn side of the pin to the loaded side of the bushing/sheave.    Bushing and sheave looked good with no issue with play.   

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8876.msg63905.html

Kurt