port side engine wall

[mdidomenico]

Are you talking about the exhaust manifold (hope not) being toast, or the exhaust riser?  Big difference.
Do you have any "before" pictures?

i'm talking about the solid pipe that connects the engine to the muffler.  i suppose that's the riser and not the manifold.

[KWKloeber]

The "used to be solid pipe"? 👍🏻

[britinusa]

Our exhaust riser was pretty bad, not that bad, but definitely time to replace.
CD had some off the shelf, but the size (lengths) were just a tad off.
But the price difference between off the shelf and custom made the decision easy.
I moved the Muffler box about 1" to port and the new riser fit like a charm.

Paul

[mdidomenico]

in case anyone's interested now (or in the future).  out came the port head wall today...  came out rather easy.  i did have saw the door frame where it splines into the titled section at the top.  that sucks, but at least it was only one straight cut, so i should be able to fix it

[mdidomenico]

after some digging through the yellow pages, i managed to find some 1/2" okoume plywood (marine grade) fairly locally.  however, i've been unable to find formica anywhere.  apparently most stores stopped carrying it cause it's gone out of style and it's apparently fragile and easily broken by man hands.

i don't particularly want to special order two sheets from lowes/home depot, but i can if i must.  however, wandering around i managed to stop these panels.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glasliner-4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836

it says FRP.  i'm wondering if i can use these instead of formica and bond them to the okoume with regular west epoxy

i'm not huge fan of the "cracked ice" texture, but it's not terrible

[mdidomenico]

looks like you're supposed to use FRP glue, from liquid nails or titebond.  both will stick to plywood and claim moisture resistance, so epoxy might not be needed.  just fyi...

[Noah]

Formica is just a brand name. Should be able to find replacement smooth laminates at any lumberyard, Lowes, HD or cabinet shop/supplier. Other popular bands are Wilsonart and Nevamar. Contact cement should work in this circumstances.

[KWKloeber]

md

If the crackle finish doesn't suit you (I don't blame you, I wouldn't use it) there is smooth FRP available also.  I think Lowes carries it, but not stock, order in but it's 2x-3x the $$ of the stock textured.  Or check with a real lumber yard they usually have a wider selection and oftentimes "formica" (or other brand) also.  Also, formica is still used on commercial cabinets (custom offices, desks) so do a Giggle search for a cabinet shop or "case goods" near you (have no idea where you are but they are not only located in large metro areas) - you might be able to buy a laminate sheet (cut to size.)  Matte white would be the ticket.  if FRP, my gut says use contact cement.  it should work as well (it worked well for a for replacement J/120 headliner and durable but it had a very mild texture, nearly not noticed.)   As I said below, if the substrate is thirsty, either seal the ply surface or double load the contract cement on the ply after the one dries (otherwise it may look grabby, but it's soaked in and the laminate won't get good adhesion.)
Also, Amazon and cabinetmaker warehouse sells laminate online, "free" delivery. You need only "vertical grade" laminate for your project.

[KWKloeber]

out came the port head wall today... 

Just a thought/suggestion, while you have that all opened up and easy access -- as long as your riser is shot anyway, why not install the water-cooled riser and be done with exhaust gas eating up the riser forevermore, and run a WAY COOLER engine compartment/no riser insulation needed?

[mdidomenico]

i've not been able to locate smooth laminate near me, that isn't special order.  so i can get it, but i don't really want to special order pieces though. i have a couple more calls to make, hopefully something will turn up.

i'm not sure what you mean by install the water cooled riser?  my old one had a water inlet to cool the exhaust and i was planning to buy the duplicate from catalina direct.

[KWKloeber]

MD

Just wondering, what's the objection to placing an order at a big box for the laminate you want? Or the online sites? 

The OEM was actually "matte" finish white.  A good lumber yard should be able to get in what you want.  or a cabinet maker.  Call Dave Ramsay, maybe they'll sell you a sheet of white.

On the wet riser, seawater surrounds the whole exhaust flow -- not injected at the end (at the muffler inlet) as the CTY risers do where there's no cooling on the riser itself (that's why yours burned up.)  With it you use a side-inlet muffler.

[mdidomenico]

Just wondering, what's the objection to placing an order at a big box for the laminate you want? Or the online sites? 

On the wet riser, seawater surrounds the whole exhaust flow -- not injected at the end (at the muffler inlet) as the CTY risers do where there's no cooling on the riser itself (that's why yours burned up.)  With it you use a side-inlet muffler.

it's not a problem, i just prefer to get stuff in stock as opposed to special order.  it's usually the result of  me screwing up the first one i bought and needing to get a second.  just a personal preference

okay, i understand what you're referring to, but i've not seen that posted as a DIY project anywhere.  since i have to undertake this project this month as i hope to get my engine back in in the couple weeks, i'd be interested in more detail.  not sure i'll go that route, but i certainly want to have all the info, esp since the riser/shielding/hoses is going to run me $500 or so from CD

[KWKloeber]

okay, i understand what you're referring to, but i've not seen that posted as a DIY project anywhere.

[Edit]
Note Bill's is an XPB, so you'd need to measure/confirm it will fit w/ your XP, but I'd suspect it would.

MD
I linked it to you last year.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10020.msg76753.html#msg76753

-k