Hot Water Heater - Kuuma brand replacement

Clay Greene · January 07, 2014, 11:32:40 AM

Ken, were you still able to get the new water heater in through the midline opening with the teak trim off? It has been several years since I did this project but I remember thinking that it seemed like the opening had been cut to the dimensions of the water heater and that a bigger model would not go through the opening.

The alternative would be to take the sink out. Either straight down or turned on end and rotated, the water heater should make it through the sink opening. Our sink came out pretty easily when we replaced it - nothing but silicone and the hose and faucet connections holding it in place.

Ken Juul · January 08, 2014, 09:16:31 AM

Yes the hole for the water heater door was big enough. But there was not enough clearance to get under the drawer frame.

Andrew Harvey · January 13, 2014, 09:42:18 AM

I just purchased a Seaward at the Toronto boat show. All fittings are on the front.
The coolant hoses on my existing rusted out hulk are at the front (port side)It looks like there is plenty of room if you install a couple of 90 male thread to hose barb elbow
The starboard end of the old heater including fittings is 18" from the door. the new heater is about the same in length
Am I missing something here ?

Andrew

Stu Jackson · January 13, 2014, 10:11:35 AM

Andrew, no, you're not missing anything. The addition of two 90 degree elbows is a good solution for the front coolant connections. All we're suggesting is that if one has a choice, a skipper should buy the rear (starboard) connections because the connections to the coolant lines might be easier. That's all. Nice solution on your part.

captran · August 19, 2015, 12:07:44 PM

I am not even sure it's a water heater issue, but even though this reply is to an old post I thought there were enough current replies to post here. One question is mounting. I have the Mark 2, 1997 model, does one go in from the top and slide it into position, having to remove the brass fitting and maybe even the electric cover. my current seaward is only 10 years old. it is 16 deep not counting the 1 1/2 inch to 2 inches of the cover plate and the brass pressure release valve that is about 2+ inches, 13 tall and 13 wide, with rear mounted engine hose connections, access to water hoses there in 2 cut outs.. or do you remove all of the water hoses attached to the bulkhead under the sink area and slide it in that way? the one that catalina direct sells says 19 inches. I am assuming the includes the brass relief valve and such. does anyone know for sure?

More importantly, we didn't have any issues to speak of until the morning we were about to leave Victoria. In the morning the water pump started cycling. I quick looked to the water heater, as several years ago the nipple had failed. turned out the input water hose had come loose, so I tightened the clamp. but now there seems to be less water pressure on the hot. When I turn on the cold water pressure is fine, and the pump comes on and says on until shut off, but the hot water flow is about half and it cycles on and off. also seemed like we've cleaned out 2 1/2 cups of water over the last 3 days. don't know if that's what leaked out originally and is slowing finding it's way into the bilge.

Jack Hutteball · August 19, 2015, 05:38:29 PM

Randy,

Your boat must be different than mine as there is a solid bulkhead at the sink cabinet back that the engine coolant hoses run thru. The only way to get mine out was to disconnect all hoses and electrical (tough, as there is not a lot of room in front of the heater) rotate it 90 degreed and lift it out through the top of the seat. All the batteries must be removed to accomplish it.
Jack

captran · August 20, 2015, 07:30:52 AM

thanks Jack. , hope to be in touch in the spring to take a look. my bulkhead looks like its screwed on, but with all the hoses , I'd rather drop it in as you did. we're at Cap Sante today till noon, but sounds like you'll be off on your way. safe travels

dhagen · May 13, 2019, 06:55:44 AM

I have a 2001 MKII. I need to replace the water heater. It is located under the settee. The heat exchanger hoses are out the back. I have a couple of questions. First, how do I keep the engine antifreeze from spilling all over when I disconnect the hoses? If I have to drain the antifreeze from the engine, how do I do that without just draining it into the bilge? Second, it appears that the Seaward replacement is 3/4" less deep than a kuumo. Will the Kuumo fit?

Stu Jackson · May 13, 2019, 11:10:12 AM

Quote from: dhagen on May 13, 2019, 06:55:44 AM
I have a 2001 MKII. I need to replace the water heater. It is located under the settee. The heat exchanger hoses are out the back. I have a couple of questions. First, how do I keep the engine antifreeze from spilling all over when I disconnect the hoses? If I have to drain the antifreeze from the engine, how do I do that without just draining it into the bilge? Second, it appears that the Seaward replacement is 3/4" less deep than a kuumo. Will the Kuumo fit?

Drain the hoses at the engine end, there will always be some in those hoses to heater unless you're quick, super quick, in capping them when you remove them. Little thing called gravity. Unless you have a shop vac. All sorts of options there.

Fit? IIRC, it's Kuuma. You have the boat, can't you measure? Note that the Kuuma is a less expensive brand than even the Seaward, which - Seaward - has a 10-15 year life. Do you want to have to do this yet again even sooner? Your boat, your choice. :)

Here's a link for some other ideas:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8541.msg60271.html#msg60271

Good luck.

KWKloeber · May 13, 2019, 03:13:40 PM

DH. You can get hose pinching locking pliers, or evacuate the coolant via the circulation pump barb or where there's a connector. Blow out the lines and WH and you'll have but a few drops missing. If you drain some coolant from the exhaust manifold you can blow the WH back to the engine, or remove both hoses at the pump/thermostat (after pinching) and deal with draining it directly into a bucket. Many cats to skin doing this.

Jim Hardesty · May 14, 2019, 03:56:30 AM

QuoteI have a 2001 MKII. I need to replace the water heater. It is located under the settee. The heat exchanger hoses are out the back. I have a couple of questions. First, how do I keep the engine antifreeze from spilling all over when I disconnect the hoses? If I have to drain the antifreeze from the engine, how do I do that without just draining it into the bilge? Second, it appears that the Seaward replacement is 3/4" less deep than a kuumo. Will the Kuumo fit?

Shamrock is also a 2001 MKll. I replaced the water heater a couple of seasons ago with a Seaward. Was a close fit. The batteries and battery box had to come out. Measure the replacement, I would not trust the advertised size. As far as the existing coolant, I'd suggest doing a coolant change. I tape over the limber holes under the engine then drain and pump out from there. Just run the engine for a minuet or two don't put hot coolant there.
One other nice-to-do project, especially if you need to winterize, is plumb in a hot water bypass.
Jim