Nonskid Repair

[Norris Johnson]

The nonskid deck laminate is coming up in a spot about 2". It started as a bubble. I need to repair it to keep moisture out. I'm not sure what is the best material to use. I would like to try some of the West System, but I've never used it before. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated. In the meantime I will use the "search" part of this site.
Thanks, Norris

[hdevera]

I find it hard to believe that a late model boat would be having such a problem so early.  I hope you're contacting Catalina to assist with the financial aspects of the repairs.  I like to know their response.  Sorry I can't help you with the how to aspects.  Good luck.

[shekinahsailor]

Regarding the Catalina Assist, I had some spider cracking that developed on my deck, midship,vertical portion directly above the rub rail in 2001 (my vessel is also a 1998).  Frank Butler responded to me that the 5 year hull warranty only covers the hull - that portion below the rub rail.  I'd still contact them.  Maybe their response to you will be different.  Good Luck!

[reedbr]

I'm going to add my 2 cents, but I'm not sure how helpful it will be.  

I just did a LOT of fiberglass and paint work on a 25 year old dinghy I "restored".  It's not hard.  I have used West system before but it was too expensive for the dinghy project. I used Home Depot fiberglass epoxy resin which was the exact same to work with although it might not be as durable. Buy the smallest quantity possible of whatever you use, as you'll only need 2-4 ounces.  Mix the two parts and measure carefully.  Your working time will be frightfully quick, 10-15 minutes, so have eveything prepped ahead of time.  You can choose to use a small spot of fiberglass mat to reinforce your repair area if it is large enough to warrant it.  I would consider 2" a borderline call.  Everything you use will be thrown out when your done, so buy cheap chip brushes and paint cups to mix in.  I even used clear plastic keg cups to mix the epoxy but had to use 2-3 nested together so it didn't melt though the outer cup when the remainder started to cure and heat up. Remove any loose gelcoat and sand the damaged spot.  Wipe the area down with a rag and paint thinner to remove all the dust.  Mask off surrounding areas as the epoxy can get messy.  When applying the epoxy, resist the temptation to empty the cup that you mixed and only use what the repair spot needs.    

Color and texture match are going to be the challenge.  I know as I have  a spot on my deck needing repair that looks like sombody dropped a tool from up the mast.  I'm contemplating this same job.  You might be able to get epoxy coloring that you add right with the resin as you mix it.  If not, you will have to paint it with topsides paint.  White will be OK (get flattening agent), but the grey which is where my damage is will be harder.  I was considering a Dremel and a straight edge to try to reproduce the non-skid texture, but I'm open to other suggestions.

Again, I don't know if this helps.  I'm not hoping for perfection on my reapir job.  I'm just trying to prevent further damage without creating an eyesore.  I would be curious to see what other advice you get. Feel free to e-mail me if you want to discuss it further (reedbr@erols.com).

Brian Reed
1997 C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

[bjmansfield]

I found the grey Marine-Tex is a very close match in color to the non-skid.  I applied using a small putty knife to match the pattern as closely as I could then used a razor blade to shape it when it had set but not completely hardened. AFter it hardens use a dremel to final shape and clean up.

Jack Mansfield

[Norris Johnson]

Thanks for all the response. I went with the Marine Tex, only because I've used it many times before. I bought the Gray Marine Tex and added a small amount of the gray to the white. My deck color is a very light grey. I kept adding the grey until the color was right. Then I added the catalyst and mixed it in an old coffee can plastic lid with a popcicle stick. I applied the Marine Tex with a 1" putty knife. Let it dry about an hour, then smoothed it with a wet finger. I will probably try the Dramel Tool thing later.
Thanks again.

[reedbr]

Jack-

If you just saved me the job of paint matching with your gray Marine-Tex recommendation, your going to make me a very happy boater.  I'm going to the store this week.  Hope to try it next weekend.

Brian Reed
1997 C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

[Roc]

Go to this website, they have all the factory matched colors

http://www.spectrumcolor.com/default_main.asp

Roc-

[Norris Johnson]

Thanks Roc. Too late for me. Maybe someone else will try this. I'd like to know how it comes out.