Transmission replacement

[Jon W]

Sorry I should have been more clear, I was asking about the fuel tank leak.

[kh3412]

Will know more when tank is out. Don't think it's the hose as all new two years ago.

[kh3412]

Ok little update. Fuel tank out, leaks at seam . New tank being made, not worth trying to fix when a new tank can be had for so little. Tank leak softened the sealant for the tru-hulls in the head sink cabinet. So thru-hulls removed and seacocks installed. Made the epoxy bed for the strut, was easier than I had imagined. Removed old strut and prepared the surface for epoxy. Drilled and tapped holes in each corner for 5/16 bolts. installed nylon 5/16 bolts in each corner of strut. Hang strut from 3/8 rods through existing holes. Install 1 inch dummy shaft in strut with extra cutlass bearing in shaft log, this is to ensure shaft is centered in shaft log. Now tighten 3/8 threaded rod while turning shaft. Use the nylon bolts to maintain the position of the strut. When shaft is alined ensure nylon bolts are snug and remove 3/8 nuts a few inches to allow you room to apply thickened epoxy on strut (pva, wax on strut face), tighten the 3/8 rods till the nylon bolts contact the hull. This gets you in the ballpark a slight adjustment while spinning the shaft. Let dry.
When set, removed the threaded rods and supporting the strut so it won't fall run the nylon bolts in slowly pushing the strut from the hull. You are left with a bed for your strut. I thought this would be the hardest job but was not bad. Now for the leaks guess i should start a new tread for that.

[kh3412]

Well new tank arrived and shaft should be done tomorrow. Could be a busy day at the boat this weekend.

[kh3412]

Well shaft is here .
Promised some pictures of the cracks and after grinding gelcoat off the area here is a picture from the inside.

[kh3412]

And a shot from the outside. It appears that the skeg was a rounded area and a finish piece was applied over with voids at the edges. So most of the repair will be from the inside.

[kh3412]

Well time for an update. Strut mounted Fuel tank installed  New shaft in the log
Had a good weekend at the boat. Strut installed with new shaft in place. Got the new fuel tank mounted and plumbed. Filled the voids that held water in the rear of the boat. Next weekend have a plan for filling the area around the strut and can get back to installing my new transmission.

[glennd3]

Just a suggestion, if it is possible to align the fuel shut of handle directly under the opening in the cockpit locker it makes getting to it a lot easier. Nice work you do!

[Stu Jackson]

Just a suggestion, if it is possible to align the fuel shut of handle directly under the opening in the cockpit locker it makes getting to it a lot easier. ........................

That's the way mine is.  I used to be able to exercise it, i.e., make it work.  Last time I tried, after emptying out what I call "My Toxic Waste Dump" port locker which holds all my cleaning stuff (yeah, like I ever use any of it! )  Maybe it's 'cuz I finally changed my primary fuel filter after 900 hours.  Not a typo.  2613 to 3505 hours.

So I guess my recommendation is to change the filter more often so the valve works.  Otherwise, you'll end up having to pull "The Ron Hill Trick" of vise clamps with sacrificial material around the hose.  Always nice to have a backup method.

Of course, I have "The" second fuel filter cutoff valve just willin' & able to be put into into the filter body and hose under the head sink, sitting in my "To Do" box.  Since 2003...

That valve does work. 

[kh3412]

I actually can reach it from through the head sink.
Would Rather fight to get it that way then to have to empty the locker. thanks

[glennd3]

I will have to check mine, thanks for the tip.

[jmcdonald]

I put a bomar type hatch in the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the fuel tank.
Pop it open and you get access to the shut off , the fuel gage wiring, the fuel hose 
and the fuel gage sending unit. Way easier than trying to go thru the cockpit lazarette.

[Stu Jackson]

jm, thanks for that reminder.  I recall removing the screws holding the teak wall up about, oh, 10 years ago, and never replaced them since the wall stays up all by itself and friction.  All I'd have to have done was pull the wall off to get to the valve.  Doh!  Maybe next time...  At my pace, that'd be in 2025...

[kh3412]

Small update strut in and area around filled. No easy trick as gravity was working against me the whole time.
New shaft in with new coupling.
Engine out of the galley and back where it belongs with new mounts.
Heat exchanger moved from back of engine to bulkhead to allow access to trans and back of engine.
So the transmission part of the job is coming to a close, still have cables and wires and hoses to route but a see a light.
Unfortunately the light is not bright, as I need a rudder, big crack and delamination around the shaft and overall poor condition.
Owners that don't go through the freeze/thaw cycle are very lucky.

[kh3412]

Picture of the strut