Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan

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The damage (corrosion) was done quite awhile ago. When I rebuilt the Sherwood last year, I solved the leak problem, but I should have also resolved all the corrosion damage that was so evident elsewhere.

Hindsight... and word to the wise is sufficient here: look diligently for any sign of corrosion. Fix immediately. No, sooner than immediate. Fix definitively. In my humble, inexperienced opinion, corrosion is the equivalent of engine cancer. So get it all or it just starts spreading again. Prices were within reason until we got to the oil pan itself: $225.00. As you know, or FYI: the Westerbeke/Universal website has a dealer locator - good starting point/resource: www.westerbeke.com. BTW, Despite being told by local diesel mechanics that since the pan had been ON the engine for 12 years that it would take another 12 years to get it OFF, I found that it was more like 12 minutes. (excluding the time it took to pull those 18 pan bolts). Hammer and non-metallic wedge/chisel device aimed at the grove in the pan (this per the Universal Service manual instruction). Worked like a charm.

John LeMasters, Blue Moon #753


A few ideas. Take your oil pan to a Kubota dealer and match it up with their C1100 engine. I think you'll see a BIG price break. If you are bound and determined to go with a "Universal" pan and are a Boat US member you can also get a small (10-15%) cut by ordering it thru them.

If you were thinking about a rebuilt M25XPA - I'd recommend paying another $1K and get a New M25XPB which is the same block/dimensions, but has 3 more hp!!! You can lift the engine up 2-4" with only disconnecting the exhaust from muffler intake. All other wires and hoses can remain connected. I'm not too sure if this is sufficient height to get a torque wrench under, but it's better than nothing.

All my manuals are on the boat so I went to my Ford Taurus shop manuals. On an oil pan reinstallation Ford recommends 8-10 ft.lbs. All you are trying to do is get all the bolts evenly snugged down. The gasket will compress (crush) a little. For the nondrying sealant, I'd recommend #2 Non Hardening Permatex; I've always had good luck with it. Make sure that you use it on both sides of the gasket and a little goes a long way. The pan and engine surfaces must be absolutely clean of old gasket and oil. Before you dumped the old oil you should have run a magnet thru it - that's the way to find minuet "chips."

By the way while you've got the engine up - change the engine mounts! I can't believe the difference the Vetus K50 mounts made on smoothing out my 25XP. After idle there's NO rpm that's smoother than another!!!! From 1200 to 3200 the only change is that the engine is louder. The K50 mounts are similar the new style Universal mounts. Lifting the engine is easy as it only weighs 309lbs. with transmission. The engine has 2 lifting eyes on it although I didn't use them. If you want to use a 4:1 block and tackle on to the boom let me know and I'll give you a few tips.

Ron Hill, APACHE #788


Torque advice: The engine manual does not specifically refer to any torque values for the oil pan bolts. The only reference is on page 120 under notes for reassembly where it says to apply a nondrying adhesive and install the oil pan. It notes that the bolts should be tightened in diagonal order from the center. That's it! There are however some generic torques for metric bolts depending on their diameter and material grade that may be of help. Diameter in mm; torque in ft/lbs (for standard grade bolts, type SS41, S20C) 6mm 5.8-6.9 8mm 13.0-15.2 10mm 28.9-33.3 12mm 46.3-53.5 I would be cautious and err on the side of too little rather than too much to avoid distortion of the sheet metal pan. It's a lot easier to have to retighten a bolt or two later than to have to drop the pan and try to true up the sealing surface.

Bob L., "Sjora"