https://c34.org/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Stu+jackson&feedformat=atomc34.org - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T15:09:25ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.34.1https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Leaks&diff=4691Leaks2014-03-12T16:38:41Z<p>Stu jackson: /* Hull */</p>
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<div>==Bildge==<br />
*[[Persistent Water in the Bilge|Diagnosing water in the bilge]]<br />
<br />
==Hull==<br />
*[[Leaking Beckson Ports |Beckson Ports]]<br/><br />
*[[Lewmar Leaks|Lewmar Ports]]<br/><br />
*[[Lewmar Port Leak Repairs by Steve Wormsbacher http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7950.msg55176.html#msg55176]<br />
*[[Water in the Boom]]<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Advice_on_Replacing_the_Oil_Pan Oil pan replacement project] to fix leaking oil Pan]<br><br />
*[[Rust Streaks|Rust on Rudder]]<br/><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing Stuffing Box]<br />
<br />
==Rebedding==<br />
*[[Rebedding Beckson Ports| Ports]]<br/><br />
*[[Rebedding Chain plates| Chain Plates]]<br/><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Rebedding_teak Teak]<br />
*[[Sealant Types]]<br />
Main hatch and sprayhood - teak removal with Flix (thanks to Mike MacDonald - link to Message Board post) http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7191.0.html<br />
<br />
==Items of Interest==<br />
There are over 20 [http://c34.org/tech-notes-index/index.htm Tech Notes] on this subject<br></div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Inspecting_and_Re-bedding_Chainplates&diff=4690Inspecting and Re-bedding Chainplates2014-02-25T02:00:40Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
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<div>'''By Mike Vaccaro, ''[[Spirit]]'' #563 (1988)<br />
<br />
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[[image:chainPlateRepair1.jpg|thumb|400px|Chain plate shows signs of surface corrosion due to leaking around the bolt on the left and the top edge of the plate. This was the original factory bedding, 19-years old at the time the picture was taken—long over-due for replacement.<br />
]]<br />
One of the necessary evils of owning a boat is the requirement to re-bed deck hardware from time to time. The C34 has a well-designed chain plate system that effectively transfers the rigging load from the shrouds to the deck and the hull. Unlike many sailboats, the plates are not tied to a bulkhead or any interior wood work. The holes for the plates do, however, pass through the deck which is a sandwich is made up of the hull liner, plywood and the deck laminate. In Mark I boats, the holes were cut and the chain plates installed with bedding compound. The edges of the laminated plywood were left exposed. This is a prime source of water intrusion that can lead to deck rot and delamination. If extensive, this rot requires major structural repair and is best avoided by properly maintaining the bedding compound used to seal the chain plate holes in the deck. The interior chain plate assemblies should be regularly inspected for the presence of leaks. Leaks are evidenced by presence of water, corrosion on plate components or brown staining around the plate assemblies. Water that leaks through the plates is likely to run down the rod assembly and cause water damage to the wood shelving behind the settees.<br />
<br />
The proper bedding material for chain plates is polysulfide. Boatlife Life Caulk or 3M 101 are two readily available examples. The prime benefits of polysulfide are its sealing properties, flexibility when cured and that it is readily removed when it’s time to re-bed in the future. The only down side to polysulfide is the time required for a complete cure—up to 21 days in cold temperatures. Polyurethane adhesive/sealants such as 3M 5200 should not be used as their primary purpose is to adhere, not seal components. Due to flexing and maintenance requirements it WILL be necessary in the future to be able to disassemble the chain plates. Polyether sealants may be used (3M 4000 UV or West Marine Multi-caulk) as can silicone, especially if limited time is available for bedding jobs.<br />
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[2/24/2014 - Stu] NEW material for rebedding chainplates is BUTYL TAPE. http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7265.0.html<br />
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[2/24/2014 - Stu] Do NOT install sealant of ANY kind UNDERNEATH. You NEED to seal the TOP where the water comes from. You WANT to keep the bottom clear so that any water that may come in SHOWS so you'll know it's leaking.<br />
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<br />
==== Correction Note ====<br />
Bill of "Grace Under Pressure" wrote (Nov. 2009): as far as the chain plate rebedding there is what I consider a flaw in the instructions on this website. According to Don Casey's book sailboat hull and deck repair, you need to rebed the chainplates but skip the sealant on the underside of the chainplates inside the cabin. You do not want to seal moisture in the deck. I am not saying that the instructions are not good, they are, just do not seal the underside (cabin) plate. This will allow moisture to enter the cabin when the seal at the chainplate fails - indicating time to reseal or rebed. [Stu]<br />
<br />
BUTYL tape has been shown to be a GREAT improvement over silicone sealant. See this Message Board thread: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7249.0.html [Stu 12/15/123]<br />
<br />
===Removal===<br />
This repair is best accomplished with the boat in the water. This will allow the bedding to cure with the chain plates under tension. It’s best to work on the same shroud on both sides of the boat at the same time, i.e., aft lowers, uppers or forward lowers. The first step is to treat your turnbuckles to a spray of lubricant. Then, remove the cotter pins from the bolts. The turn buckle is loosened with two wrenches, one to hold the shroud stationary and the other to turn the turn buckle. Two adjustable wrenches will work. A medium and large type works the best, using the medium wrench to hold the shroud and the large wrench on the center of the turn buckle. It is important not to allow the shroud to twist when loosening the turnbuckle. Only the turn buckle should turn. Turn the turnbuckle for a turn or two and look at the threads to determine if you are tightening or loosening it. When viewed from above, most turnbuckle assemblies are rotated counter-clock wise to loosen. Continue to loosen the turnbuckle until the shroud is slack and you can remove the cotter pin in the clevis pin holding the t-bolt to the chain plate. Disconnect the shroud from the chain plate. <br />
<br />
[[image:chainPlateRepair2.jpg|thumb|400px|Bolt, lock washer and bushing at the base of the rod. The assembly shown does not have a lock nut. Note beveled aluminum bushing at the top of the assembly. ]]<br />
The next step is to go below and remove the back cushions on the settees to access the bolts at the bottom of the rod. Use a 15/16” wrench to loosen these bolts. A shot of lubricant will help if the bolts have not been loosened. Some boats have two nuts—the lower nut is a lock nut to ensure the upper nut doesn’t back off. Other boats are equipped with multiple lock washers. Be sure that after you loosen these bolts you catch all of the hardware so that it’s not lost in the recesses of the hull. You may or may not be able to slide the aluminum beveled bushing at the top of the assembly. If there has been any leaking, the aluminum may have corroded slightly to the stainless rod. A tap with a hammer will usually be sufficient to loosen this bushing. Each bushing is different; so use care not to mix them up. Also note which side is the top and bottom when you remove it and mark it so that it’s reinstalled properly. If you don’t wish to completely disassemble and lubricate or remove the rod, it’s only necessary to loosen the bolt a bit to allow you twist the rod out of the chain plate fitting. <br />
<br />
To remove the rod from the chain plate base, just turn it until it’s loose. This will be easier with a bit of lubricant, a light tap with a hammer and then a non-marring vice grip or channel lock pliers. Use care not to damage the polished stainless rod. After it’s screwed out of the chain plate, allow the rod to slide down to rest on the hull. It is possible to remove the upper and aft rods if you wish to clean them up, but the forward lower rods are difficult to remove unless the teak trim strip below the port lights is removed. <br />
<br />
The next step is to go back up on deck and remove the chain plate covers. These are the metal rectangles that surround the base of the chain plate and are held in place with two small #8 ¾” stainless screws. Remove the screws and gently pry the cover off of the deck. It will be necessary to clean the old sealant from the cover after removal. The screws should be replaced with hex head bolts and the standard washers will be replaced with fender washers during reassembly. <br />
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<gallery caption="Click any image to enlarge" perrow=3 widths=210px heights=250px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair3.jpg|Chain plate cover and machine screws that hold plate to the bottom of the deck<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair4.jpg|Turnbuckle/shroud removal<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair8.jpg|Removing chain plate cover<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair5.jpg|Remove nuts down below<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair6.jpg|Remove nut, lock washer and angled aluminum washer behind settee and rod<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair7.jpg|Uunscrew the threaded <br />
</gallery><br />
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The last step is to remove the two 3/8” x 16 course threaded machine screws that hold the plate to the deck. This is a one person job as the screws and bolts can be accessed by reaching through open portholes. Once the bolts are removed, the easiest way to pry the plate from the bottom of the deck is to go above and simply stand on the plate to put pressure on it. Apply smooth steady pressure—don’t stomp on it. If you are working alone, be sure to put something below to catch the plate when it falls as it weighs several pounds. After removal, the chain plate components should be disassembled and cleaned.<br />
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<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=225px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair9.jpg|Carefully breaking the seal and removing chain plate from the deck. This can be aided if someone can step on the plate from above and provide downward pressure.<br />
image:chainPlateRepair10.jpg|This is how the port upper plate looked after removal and before it was cleaned. After cleaning, there was only minor surface corrosion which was removed and the plate was re-installed.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
===Preparation & cleaning===<br />
Old sealant and any surface corrosion should be cleaned from the plates and components after removal. A combination of steel wool, a wire brush, Scotchbrite, razor scraper, small screw driver and elbow grease will aid with mechanical removal of ALL of the old sealant. Any sealant not removed may prevent proper adhesion of the new bedding compound during re-installation. The plate components should be inspected for any signs of corrosion. Welds should be inspected for any signs of fatigue. Some light pitting as the result of surface corrosion is probably O.K.; but any cracks or fissures should be suspect. Any suspect plates should be replaced. Replacement plates can be obtained from Catalina. You’ll need to specify your hull number, year built and which chain plate when ordering. <br />
<br />
Cleaning the deck and chain plate cut-out will require some effort. Our chain plates were installed at the factory with silicone. Of the six plates, only one showed no signs of leaking after twenty years. Five simply required cleaning and a coat of clear, deep-penetrating epoxy (CDPE) to seal the exposed edge of the 3/8” plywood in the deck laminate. One had some rot in the plywood around the bolt holes and cutout which required repair, and this chain plate also exhibited sufficient signs of corrosion to warrant replacement. <br />
<br />
Silicone, polysulfide or polyurethane sealants require mechanical removal. A combination of small screw driver, Scotchbrite and a small stainless steel brush will remove the sealant from the no-skid deck. A 3/8” drill can be used to clean the bolt holes and a combination of files and sand paper will clean the inside of the chain plate cut-out. The wood in the deck laminate should be inspected. If it is the color of normal wood, there is no rot. If it has turned black, but resists probing with a knife or other sharp object, it should be dried out and then treated with CDPE. Even if there is no sign of rot, two coats of CDPE will encapsulate the wood and prevent damage in the future. The inside of the bolt holes should be treated as well as the outboard cover plate screw hole (this will require the use of a syringe to apply the epoxy).<br />
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<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=225px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair11.jpg|Disassembled chain plate components. This is the port aft lower plate from Hull 563 and is a different design than the other five. It has bolts in addition to the weld holding the chain plate to the base. Based on the type and condition of the sealant, it appears that this plate was installed at the factory during production.<br />
image:chainPlateRepair12.jpg|The other five plates on Hull 563 do not have bolts reinforcing the weld. Additionally, the have heavier gauge metal for the hinge plates on the bottom. Note the markings to aid in re-installation. It DOES matter that the plates be re-installed in the same orientation in which they were removed.<br />
</gallery><br />
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<br />
If there has been sufficient leaking to allow the plywood core to rot, repair is more problematic. Visual indication of problems may include gel-coat cracking if the upper glass laminate has been stressed by compression. A simple tap test with a hard object will also provide some clue as to the extent of the core damage. Ultimately, a moisture meter will be required if the damage appears to be extensive. The repair described in this article is sufficient if core damage is limited to a small area around the bolt holes and cut-out. An excellent discussion of core repair can be found at www.rotdoctor.com. If there is any doubt about the ability to properly accomplish this type of repair, it’s best to consult a professional. <br />
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<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=200px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair13.jpg|This plate showed signs of minimal leakage. There is some mold in the plywood, but this laminate can be preserved with an application of CDPE. Note the remains of the factory-applied silicone. This silicone held up well for 19-years.<br />
image:chainPlateRepair14.jpg|The same chain plate after cleaning and two coats of epoxy to seal the wood.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
The first step is to remove as much of the rotten core as practical. This will also help determine the extent of the damage/repair required. After cleaning the rotten wood, a combination of digging with a bent wire (or similar tool) and vacuum should be used to remove rotten material. The next step is to stabilize the remaining wood with CDPE. If damage is limited to a small area, the CDPE can be applied with a syringe and tubing via the cut out and bolt holes. To help the epoxy flow, heat is judiciously applied with a heat gun and the boat can be heeled slightly to aid in the flow out board. The heat will reduce the viscosity of the epoxy, aiding in absorption. Most of the repair will be the result of capillary action as the remaining plywood soaks up the epoxy. Fortunately, this area of the deck can be accessed from below, so if more extensive treatment is required, it is practical to drill into the laminate from the cabin. <br />
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To properly repair the bolt holes, the holes should be bored over-size, filled with epoxy and re-drilled (3/8”) after the epoxy sets. Due to the laminated nature of the deck core, it’s only necessary to bore through the substrate until you reach the hull liner. <br />
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<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=200px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair15.jpg|The rotten plywood core has been removed from the area around the cut-out and the nearest bolt hole using an Allen wrench chucked into an electric drill. Additional material was removed with a small hooked wire. This chain plate was sufficiently corroded to warrant replacement. Probing and tap test indicated that non-repairable core damage was limited to an area within 2-3” of the cut-out. This portion of the core will need to be replaced with thickened epoxy. <br />
image:chainPlateRepair16.jpg|Over-boring the bolt holes prior to filling with epoxy. Due to the nature of the laminate, a step-drill was used for this purpose. It is not necessary to drill all the way through, only to the cabin liner. A standard drill bit may be used for this purpose. Note the crazing of the gelcoat around the bolt hole as well as the cracks that go to the cut-out. This is the result of compression and failure of the deck core in this area. <br />
</gallery><br />
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<gallery perrow=3 widths=210px heights=150px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair17.jpg|Masking the area to contain the epoxy. Rust stains on the liner were cleaned with a combination of Davis FSR, a stainless wire brush and Scotchbrite.<br />
image:chainPlateRepair18.jpg|West System caulk tube used to force thickened epoxy into the deck. These inexpensive tubes are purchased empty and the thickened epoxy is then added. It’s important that a method be used to ensure that the epoxy is forced into filling all voids in the laminate.<br />
image:chainPlateRepair19.jpg|Thickened epoxy applied to the voids. Heat is judiciously applied to reduce viscosity—use caution since this quantity of epoxy can generate quite a bit of heat during the curing process. If in doubt, do not apply heat to this type of repair. The epoxy is allowed to fill the cut-out to a level just above where the old plywood was removed. This will need to be cut-out after the repair has set. <br />
</gallery><br />
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<br />
Each chain plate should be inspected after cleaning for any sign of corrosion or stress fatigue. The simple rule-of-thumb is if in doubt, replace it. Most damage severe enough to warrant replacement will be detectable with the naked eye, but a magnifying glass will go a long way to making an accurate assessment. The pictures below show good examples of a plate that should be discarded. This plate was installed in the forward lower position. It was exposed to long-term leaking. It shows signs of exfoliation corrosion around the forward bolt hole as well as a fatigue stress crack. The corrosion can be noted visually as well as by dragging a finger nail over the suspect area to detect surface imperfection. Due to the corrosive environment caused by the leak, the ability of the plate to withstand stress load is dramatically reduced. The best way to obtain a replacement chain plate or sub-component is to call Garhauer directly (909-981-2364) as they sub-contract fabrication of these fittings for Catalina. You’ll need to provide your hull number and production year so that the proper drawings can be referenced. Ask to speak to Doug. The new plate we ordered for our project fit perfectly.<br />
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<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=275px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair20a.jpg|Appearances can be deceptive<br />
image:chainPlateRepair20b.jpg|Chain plate corrosion and hairline crack warranting replacement<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Re-bedding & reassembly===<br />
Once the deck has been repaired or cleaned and sealed as necessary, the next step is to reinstall the chain plates. Before you apply any sealant, dry fit all of the components for proper fit. Replace any suspect hardware. Ensure that when the nuts that secure the bolts will have a minimum of two-three threads exposed AFTER the lock washer has been tightened down. If the bolt/screw is too short, it will be difficult to start the nut if sufficient thread isn’t available. This problem will compound if you are attempting to start a nut with polysulfide oozing through the assembly. If in doubt, too long is better than too short. If circumstances permit, the best 316 grade stainless will likely have to be ordered as most local stores will not stock this grade of hardware. Several good on-line sources exist. The bolts or screws that secure the plate to the deck should use locking hardware, either lock washers or lock nuts. Since there will be plenty of sealant used in assembly, I’ve found the best combination of hardware is a lock washer with a standard 3/8 x 16 nut. After the sealant has been cleaned up and dried, you can finish the end of the bolt/screw with an acorn nut if desired. <br />
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Reassembly sequence is important! If you removed the stainless rod for cleaning and lubrication, you may have to fit that back into the hull before you put in the chain plate. To properly orient the rod, the longer threaded portion goes down with the shorter threaded portion screwing into the pin at the chain plate. On all but the forward plates, it will be necessary to install the pin BEFORE the deck bolts, i.e., during reassembly when the plate is covered with sealant. If you fail to do this, you’ll have to pull a bolt to allow the pin to slip in place after assembly, ruining the seal around that bolt. Dry fit the entire assembly before you add the sealant—you’re less likely to make a messy mistake.<br />
<br />
To re-bed, a liberal coating of sealant should be applied to the top of the plate as well as the area around the weld. The goal is to fill the hole in the deck from the bottom up to ensure an adequate seal. Ensure that you’ve removed the cushions and put down adequate drop cloths or plastic as there will be quite a bit of sealant that is squeezed out during assembly. It will take an entire tube of sealant to properly bed all six plates. It’s worth having an extra on hand to ensure that you don’t run out with half a plate covered in wet sealant. The plates can be installed by one person if you work carefully as you can get adequate access through the open port lights. If you are working alone, it’s easier if you replace the screws with hex head bolts, since it’s much easier to hold on to a wrench than a screwdriver with your arm extended through the open port light. It’s also easier to put the final torque on the nut after the sealant has dried without turning the bolt if you can use a wrench to hold it in place instead of a screw driver. <br />
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[[image:chainPlateRepair21.jpg|thumb|300px|Tool used to pull chain plate into place with sealant through the deck. The wing nut is loosened to allow the eye bolt to extend and a nylon zip tie is slipped in place through the hole in the chain plate. The zip tie is then pulled tight and the wing nut fastened to pull the plate into place. There is sufficient room to then insert the bolts from above.]]<br />
To re-install the plates, the first step after dry assembly and fit check is to apply a thick bead of sealant to the bolts under the head and fender washer. The standard washers installed by the factory should be replaced with fender washers to distribute the load over a greater deck area, minimizing chances of compression damage. Some sealant should also be applied to the bolt hole itself. The bolts should then be pressed into place through the deck. Ensure that the nuts are readily available, and insert the plate from below with the bolts protruding through the holes. You can then slide a lock washer into place and hand tighten the nuts while pushing down on the bolt heads from above. Alternatively, you can build an inexpensive tool to pull the chain plate into place using a wing nut and a nylon zip tie. <br />
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As with any bedding job, the sealant should be allowed to cure before applying final torque to the bolts. Clean up the mess below and attach the threaded rod to the pin in the chain plate. Slip the angle washer into place as well as the lock nuts, and tighten the nut at the base of the rod hand tight. You should then re-attach the turn buckle toggle to the chain plate. Hand tighten the turnbuckle and then return below to tighten the nut at the base of the rod sufficiently to compress the lock washers—this constitutes “just snug” which is the proper torque specification. You can then put a couple of additional turns on the turn buckle to tension the rig. The sealant should cure with the rig under tension. <br />
<br />
There are several good techniques for masking when bedding deck hardware, but this is complicated if you have an older bolt with textured deck under the fittings. Newer boats have no non-skid molded into the deck area around the chain plates. If bedding over non-skid, the easiest way to clean excess sealant is to simply allow it to ooze out, and then cut it off with a razor blade after it has cured. If you are using polysulfide, you can clean things up easily after it has cured with a small stainless steel brush. Polyurethane and silicone are a bit more challenging and some effort should be made to remove excess when wet and masking will definitely help. <br />
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Ensure that adequate time is allowed before you put final tension on the rig and sail the boat. Polysulfide should be given a minimum of one week to cure during warm temperatures and at least 14 days during cooler temperatures. The pictures below illustrate the chain plate installation steps.<br />
<br />
===Step-by-step installation photos===<br />
<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=220px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair22.jpg|Repaired deck ready for chain plate installation. Ensure all surfaces are completely clean and wiped down with acetone or a similar solvent before applying bedding compound.<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair23.jpg|Positioning the chain plate “puller” and nylon zip tie used to secure the plate to the eyebolt<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair24.jpg|Applying the bedding compound to the chain plate. The goal is to force the bedding up from the bottom, so be sure to put plenty at the base of the plate.<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair25.jpg|Securing the chain plate with the zip tie. This can be done with one hand when working carefully. Ensure you slide the end of the zip tie up through the hole so it doesn’t become stuck when you try to pull the plate. [Ed. note: if the "puller tool" had a hook or an "opened eye" verses a closed eye-bolt, then the zip-tie loop could be closed before the chainplate was raised into position. Then feed the loop up through the hole and slip it over the hook.] <br />
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image:chainPlateRepair26.jpg|Tighten zip tie and eye bolt to pull plate up to deck. <br />
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image:chainPlateRepair27.jpg|Plate held in place. Note that pin is fitted at this time since it may not be possible to slide it past the bolts once they are inserted. <br />
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image:chainPlateRepair28.jpg|Prepping the bolts with bedding compound prior to inserting. Note the use of over-sized fender washers to better spread the bolt load to the deck. <br />
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image:chainPlateRepair29.jpg|Bolts inserted from above the deck. Bedding compound is simply allowed to ooze out. It will be trimmed off with a razor after it has set. <br />
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image:chainPlateRepair30.jpg|Lock washers and nuts hand tightened, plus one half turn with the wrench. Do not compress the lock washers until the bedding compound has partially cured.<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair31.jpg|Coat the end of the tie rod with Lanicote and thread into place. Note that the top of the rod just protrudes above the pin. Ensure a minimum of one thread is visible when assembling.<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair32.jpg|Attach the nut to the base of the tie rod. Ensure that the thick aluminum “washer” is properly oriented. Assembly is hand tight at this point. It will be tightened to “just snug” once the bolts holding the plate have received their final tightening after the bedding has partially cured.<br />
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image:chainPlateRepair33.jpg|Installed plate and cover. The excess polysulfide bedding is easily removed with a razor blade after it has cured. <br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair34.jpg|Interior view of finished chain plate after excess polysulfide has been cleaned up, post cure.<br />
<br />
</gallery></div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22&diff=4689M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit "B/M 256891"2014-02-24T23:57:58Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>{|<br />
|If for some reason you haven't changed to the new alternator bracket on your older (1986, early 1987) M25 21 hp Universal diesel engines, DO SO IMMEDIATELY.<br />
<br />
I learned the hard way yesterday. I'd bought the retrofit kit from Universal a year ago, and was going to do it "soon." I'd just motored over to a friend's dock for a visit, less than 5 minutes away from our slip. When my friend used the head, he came back and said, "Houston, we have a problem!" He'd noticed oil dripping from the underside of the alternator access door onto the head sole. When we took off the stairs to expose the engine, the old "over the top" alternator bracket had sheared, the alternator was lying back to port dangling from the old fan belt, and there was oil everywhere. As it disintegrated the bracket and alternator had clobbered the oil filter, which spouted oil onto the fan belt and blew it all over the engine compartment. It also nicked the fresh water cooling hose. The oil filter kept the alternator from slamming into the casing of the engine.<br />
I got out the new bracket kit, and with generous help from two friends, I removed the old parts, and fitted in the new "underneath" bracket in about three hours. <br />
<br />
Most of the time was spent adjusting the hose clamps on the new fresh water line which goes under the new bracket, since there is only a very small amount of clearance between it and the top of the oil filter. I also had to use a rubber bicycle tube with a hose clamp as a patch over the dinged fresh water hose, which, of course, was within a half inch of the end of the hose on the new copper elbow. Also, we had to drop the alternator again to move the alternator ground wire further back to one of the other studs since the wire was in the way when it was replaced on its old stud.<br />
<br />
October 2011 - From E. Herlihy an O'Day 35 owner: Last November (2010) I installed the upgraded Alternator mounting bracket, with the kit available through Torrensen Marine, and while I was at it I installed a new Leece-Nevile / Prestolite 90 amp alternator on my Universal M25. If you are reading this far, you probably know that the new alternator uses EXACTLY the same housing as the old 55 amp Motorola. BTW the kit is now ~$180.00 When I opened the box containing the kit, I was happy to see that it included all the parts, including the Alternator mounting bolts. I did the installation using the new bolts, but noticed that they did not seem to fit perfectly. The SAE Grade 5 pivot bolt allowed "a little" play of the alternator, and the tension bolt never seemed to fit "right." At the time I assumed that the alternator was machined so that the bolt would jam, thus preventing the bolt from loosening. The real reason is embarrassing....<br />
<br />
I thought it strange that both of these bolts, and the nut were SAE.<br />
031555 - 5/16NC x 1<br />
031615 - 3/8NC x 3-1/2<br />
031762 - Nut 3/8-16 Hex Steel Zinc<br />
<br />
However, EVERY other fastener is Metric. I assumed that Torrensen would know and include the correct bolts, however the extra play was because the bolts did not fit... you know what happens when you ass-u-me... The Pivot bolt SHOULD BE a Metric M10 fastener. The tension bolt (connects the tension arm and the alternator) SHOULD BE a Metric M8 coarse thread. I realized this because I was getting a little belt dust on the engine. After only 50 hours this summer, I thought that was unusual, or I would need to buy a lot of belts. In October of this year (2011), I checked the alternator tension, and the "little" play seemed a "little" worse than it should have...<br />
<br />
Because by now I had stripped some of the threads with the bolt that was included with the kit, I purchased a slightly longer bolt, a nut, and lock washer to use as a tension bolt. I also replaced the pivot bolt with a slightly longer M10 Fine thread bolt. It fit perfectly (no play at all). I used 2 nuts and a spring washer to jam the pivot bolt, so that it will not vibrate loose. I can't speak to the kit available through Catalina Direct, but the Torrensen kit has the wrong bolts!<br />
<br />
Lesson 1: If the components in the "kit" don't seem right to you, they are not.<br />
Lesson 2: DO NOT USE THE ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BOLTS INCLUDED IN THE TORRENSEN KIT if they are SAE, and you have a Leece-Neville or Motorola Alternator. <br />
<br />
PICTURES of the different bolts are now on the C34 Forum, and include the bolts to use with pictures: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5127.0.html [8/8/2012]<br />
<br />
[03/24/2013 - Stu] - My adjusting bracket broke. Since a new one would have taken two weeks to obtain through the local Universal dealer or Torreson, I had one made locally, a tad thicker, too. I use 7400 3/8" belts on our 100A Blue Circle alternator (using the metric bolts). I found the alternator bottomed out the new bracket and I couldn't get tension. I tried a backup 7390 belt I had, too short. I went to NAPA and found they make a 7395 belt.<br />
<br />
[4/26/2013 - Stu] A source for new alternator bracket adjustment arms is here on the Forum: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7398.0.html<br />
<br />
[2/24/2014 - Stu] HOW TO ALIGN YOUR BRACKET for BOTH M25 & M25XP Engines: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7917.0.html<br />
<br />
==Lessons Learned:==<br />
<br />
# If you haven't, replace the older style bracket TODAY. It'll give NO NOTICE of failure: it will just GO! I was fortunate that I had all the spare parts including the bracket kit, spare oil filter, bicycle tire for water hose patch, extra hose clamps and all the tools. Also was very helpful to have assistance. Once you get your hands oily (with or without gloves) you need a lot of help getting things you need without trashing the cabin.<br />
# One of the tricky parts is installing the hose and its new clamp underneath to provide clearance for the alternator and making sure you position the hose clamp to permit access to the screw for future tightening and checking.<br />
# The existing studs on the fresh water reservoir were just fine. The retrofit kit comes with new studs, but I didn't have to replace them.<br />
# Put the new belt on before you pop the alternator into place with the new adjusting bracket. The kit comes with two new fan belts. They're shorter than the original ones.<br />
# It's a heck of a way to do an oil change AND replace the antifreeze!<br />
# The recent List contributions about plugging the hole between the bottom of the engine compartment and the bilge leave me inclined to recommend keeping the hole, rather than plugging it. While I've got a mess in the bilge to clean up, if the oil and antifreeze hadn't gone into the bilge, it would have filled up the engine pan and spilled over into the cabin, the head, and probably back into the area underneath the aft cabin - not as easy to clean as the contained mess in the bilge.<br />
# The Alternator belt tensioner flix are here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3667.0.html<br />
Stu Jackson, ''[[Aquavite]]'' #224, San Francisco<br />
|<br />
<gallery caption="Click on any picture to enlarge" widths="100px" heights="100px" perrow="2"><br />
image:altold-bracket.jpg|Old Bracket still in place<br />
image:oil-bilge.jpg|Bracket "Broke" and Out Came the Oil!<br />
image:altold-broken.jpg|Broken parts<br />
image:altnew-kit.jpg|M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit<br />
image:altnew-bracket2.jpg|Close-up of New Bracket<br />
image:altnew-bracket.jpg|New bracket Installed<br />
</gallery><br />
Pictures by Stu Jackson, ''Aquavite'' #224<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Message Board Q&A on the alternator bracket upgrade==<br />
====Identifying if your alternator mount needs replacement====<br />
In the recent copy of mainsheet mentioned upgrading the alternator bracket. I'm not sure mine was ever done, although it hasn't presented any problems yet. I ordered the past tech notes collection, and read the article on the bracket. Unfortunately, the copy quality of the pictures that show the old and new bracket are not good. I wondered if you had a better copy if you could send, or a description that would help me determine if I have the old or new? <br />
Dave, Confetti #287, White Lake (Lake Michigan)<br />
<br />
----<br />
Most of us who have read the last several issues of Mainsheet know that the alternator bracket on the Universal Model 25 diesel engine can fail, which can crack the valve cover, resulting in a loss of engine lubricating oil. The manufacturer changed the bracket during 1987, and the current C34 production incorporates the improved engine, although dealers still have some boats with the uncorrected engine. The correct bracket uses an adjustment arm below the alternator. Factory supplied engines will also have "Model 25 XP" affixed to the top of the coolant reservoir. The old arrangement, which is likely to fail in time, has the adjusting arm above the alternator. By the way, the manufacturer does not acknowledge this as a problem, and requires about $115 for the upgrade kit. (NOTE: I paid $95.00 for mine in 1998. It's worth every penny!) Herb Schneider, ''former C34IA Tech Editor''<br />
<br />
----<br />
Stu, Also read your message to Al on the saga of your bracket replacement. Let me give you a couple of thoughts. First the best chafe guard that I've found for around that metal tube that carries coolant above the oil filter is a piece of 1" ribbed black plastic hose (at any marine store -- el cheapo stuff). All you have to do is cut a piece the length that you need and then slice it lengthwise to slip it on where you want chafe guard.<br />
The shortest filter that I've found (which I also use) is a Kubota 70000-15241. See the May & Aug 96 issues of Mainsheet for more filter #'s and important discussion. As far as the oil filters the Kabota 70000-15241 was only 1/4" longer than the miniature Fram filters. What I didn't like about the miniature Fram filter was the diameter. It only seated on a small portion of the facing surface of the engine. I also question how much filter material was really in there because of the smaller diameter. Can't remember if it had a clogged filter bypass or not, but don't think it had an anti-drain back valve. Your engine -- your choice.<br />
<br />
Another thought. I changed my belt from a 3/8 #395 to a 7/16 #400 which is a "tad" larger & LONGER. If you have trouble and have the space toward the alternator door try a #405 length belt. <br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788<br />
<br />
==Belt tensioning==<br />
As far as belt tensioning - in the dark ages they use a mallet or pry bar. If you go to an auto parts store you can buy a "belt tensioning" tool. It's like a turnbuckle with a left & right thread at a whooping cost of $6-$8! Screw it out till you get the correct tension then tighten the alternator retaining nuts. Easy as pie. Then screw the tool off. Meant to put this in the Mainsheet as a tip.<br />
<br />
Don't overtension or you'll be buying a new internal water pump. To get better alternator spacing maybe a washer might help. I replaced all the bracket bolts with longer ones as the holes were threaded all the way thru. I also recommend that alternator upgrades be limited to 90 amp for side loading and spacing.<br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788 <br />
----<br />
Although my boat is newer and has a MP-25XP engine with the bracket below, I wore out two 7/16" wide Gates heavy duty belts on my new Balmar 100 alternator in less than 500 rpm. It was impossible for me to keep adequate tension on the belts. To adjust the tension one must loosen the alternator bracket and the alternator mounting bolt, pull the alternator back and tighten the alternator bolt while keeping tension on the alternator and then tighten the bracket. Having done this several times during a passage while burning hands and arms and having to shut down the engine. I figured there must be an easier way to add tension to the belt and keep it there. I added a turnbuckle between the alternator bolt and the support beam of the engine. The only thing I was afraid of is that by pushing the alternator out, one also pushes on the engine and one could mess up the engine alignment. I have not done this yet, but I really want to. What are your thoughts about this? What size turnbuckle did you use, and how did you mount it?<br />
Looking forward to seeing your response or anybody else.<br />
Leo Missler, ''Dutch Lion'' C34 #1183 (1992)<br />
----<br />
I did this on the advice of my mechanic who has lots of experience but obviously is not perfect. We did it upon packing up Puff prior to putting her on the hard for the summer (Florida), so I don't have lots of experience with the turnbuckle.<br />
However, I used a 3/8" turnbuckle a shorter one. Pressed a nut into the eye of one end and then a couple of big washers and then bolted all that to the port side of the alternator.<br />
Screwed in a eye bolt to the engine mount platform and repeated the process on that end. Also put another nut on so I could "lock" it in by running it up against the tube.<br />
Wasn't brain surgery and seems to be very solid. It is not on tight enough to change the alignment, I think. It could be a problem if the engine vibrates and the platform doesn't but we will see.<br />
It will be a year before I actually try it.<br />
Frank, ''Puff'' #691 <br />
<br />
----<br />
Just a thought about belt tension and the XP-25.<br />
If you are just having problems putting normal tension on the belt, then the turnbuckle solution would be ok especially if you relaxed the turnbuckle after tightening up the adjusting bolts on the alt. bracket. Flex mounts are supposed to do just that. I would think that sooner or later the tension of the turnbuckle would either pull things out of alignment or transfer noise and vibration into the engine bed. If you are trying to provide more than "normal" tension then please check out below and confirm this information for yourself.<br />
When I was researching putting a high output alternator on "Family Affair" a tech at Maryville Marine, the Universal representative said that they didn't recommend beyond the factory belt tension settings because the front bearing and seal will not put up with a lot of side stress. It seems that the front crank pulley is pretty far in front of the actual front bearing on the block. Belt tension therefore has a lot of mechanical advantage. Much more so than if the crank bearing was right behind the pulley. That front housing is aluminum and full of timing gears. The crank bearing is way back (aft) behind them. Their suggested solution was to add an additional pulley (making 2 belts) on any alternator 100amp or above. They then say you can pull about 5hp off of the stock front pulley. They have the kits available on special order.<br />
Ken Dickson, ''Family Affair'' C34 #876</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals&diff=4688Manuals2014-02-07T17:56:02Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''C34 Manuals'''<br />
<br />
The copyright for all manuals remains with the original author(s) and publisher. <br />
Please respect those copyright(s).<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf MkI Owners Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/c34-mkII-owners-manual.pdf MkII Owners Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/c34-inmast-furling.pdf In Mast Furling Manual]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Engine Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Operators-Manual-1of2.pdf Universal M25xpb, M35b Operators manual part 1]<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Operators-Manual-2of2.pdf part 2]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/ServiceManual.pdf M25 Service Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Hurth_HB_Transmission_Manual.pdf Hurth Transmission]<br />
<br />
[http://c34.org/manuals/ZF_Hurth_Repair_manual.pdf Hurth Detailed Parts Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Parts-List-1of2.pdf M25xpb Parts List part 1]<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Parts-List-2of2.pdf M25xpb Parts List Part 2]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/KubotaParts-D950.pdf Kubota D950 (M25XP) Tractor engine no marine parts manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/ Universal M25xp manual]<br />
<br />
Westerbeke/Universal now has the owner manuals online. You can download them at http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/OnlineManuals.aspx<br />
<br />
'''Misc Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Maxwell%20_500VW_Manual.pdf Maxwell 500 Windlass Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/S024.pdf Teleflex Tach manual part 1][http://www.c34.org/manuals/so24cor.pdf Teleflex Tach manual part 2]<br />
<br />
[[Richie Compass Compensation]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/on-line-shop-manuals-8758.html List and Links to various on line manuals from Cruising world forum]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ganssle.com/jack/st4000.pdf Raymarine ST4000 Autopilot manual]<br />
<br />
[http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=99649 Wood and Fiberglass repair techniques]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/wiki/images/b/b9/AutoMac20_Manual.pdf Spa Creek Alternator Controller (AutoMac) Manual]<br />
<br />
*[[Hood Sea Furl 3250 Parts Diagram]]<br />
<br />
[http://l-36.com/data.php?menu=3 Misc Technical Manuals]<br />
<br />
[http://l-36.com/manuals.php?menu=4 over 40 Manuals, Electronics, Stoves, Engines, etc]<br />
<br />
'''Head, Waste System Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/JabscoTwistLockToilet.pdf Jabsco Twist-Lock Manual Toilet]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/29200_electric_conversion.pdf Jabsco Electric Head Conversion Kit]<br />
<br />
'''A TON of Manuals'''<br />
<br />
A link to a great collection of manuals, thanks to catalinaowners.com<br />
<br />
[http://macgregor.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_downloads&Itemid=287&brand=2&id=0&model=gen&page=gen]<br />
<br />
'''Water System Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/1_Liter__accumulator_tank.pdf Jabsco 1 Liter Accumulator Tank Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/8_Liter_accumulator_tank.pdf Jabsco 8 Liter Accumulator Tank Manual]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals&diff=4685Manuals2014-01-27T17:52:05Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''C34 Manuals'''<br />
<br />
The copyright for all manuals remains with the original author(s) and publisher. <br />
Please respect those copyright(s).<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf MkI Owners Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/c34-mkII-owners-manual.pdf MkII Owners Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/c34-inmast-furling.pdf In Mast Furling Manual]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Engine Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Operators-Manual-1of2.pdf Universal M25xpb, M35b Operators manual part 1]<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Operators-Manual-2of2.pdf part 2]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/ServiceManual.pdf M25 Service Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Hurth_HB_Transmission_Manual.pdf Hurth Transmission]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Parts-List-1of2.pdf M25xpb Parts List part 1]<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Parts-List-2of2.pdf M25xpb Parts List Part 2]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/KubotaParts-D950.pdf Kubota D950 (M25XP) Tractor engine no marine parts manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/ Universal M25xp manual]<br />
<br />
Westerbeke/Universal now has the owner manuals online. You can download them at http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/OnlineManuals.aspx<br />
<br />
'''Misc Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Maxwell%20_500VW_Manual.pdf Maxwell 500 Windlass Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/S024.pdf Teleflex Tach manual part 1][http://www.c34.org/manuals/so24cor.pdf Teleflex Tach manual part 2]<br />
<br />
[[Richie Compass Compensation]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/on-line-shop-manuals-8758.html List and Links to various on line manuals from Cruising world forum]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ganssle.com/jack/st4000.pdf Raymarine ST4000 Autopilot manual]<br />
<br />
[http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=99649 Wood and Fiberglass repair techniques]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/wiki/images/b/b9/AutoMac20_Manual.pdf Spa Creek Alternator Controller (AutoMac) Manual]<br />
<br />
*[[Hood Sea Furl 3250 Parts Diagram]]<br />
<br />
[http://l-36.com/data.php?menu=3 Misc Technical Manuals]<br />
<br />
[http://l-36.com/manuals.php?menu=4 over 40 Manuals, Electronics, Stoves, Engines, etc]<br />
<br />
'''Head, Waste System Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/JabscoTwistLockToilet.pdf Jabsco Twist-Lock Manual Toilet]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/29200_electric_conversion.pdf Jabsco Electric Head Conversion Kit]<br />
<br />
'''A TON of Manuals'''<br />
<br />
A link to a great collection of manuals, thanks to catalinaowners.com<br />
<br />
[http://macgregor.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_downloads&Itemid=287&brand=2&id=0&model=gen&page=gen]<br />
<br />
'''Water System Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/1_Liter__accumulator_tank.pdf Jabsco 1 Liter Accumulator Tank Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/8_Liter_accumulator_tank.pdf Jabsco 8 Liter Accumulator Tank Manual]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Catalina_34&diff=4683Catalina 342013-12-29T20:17:11Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>The ''Catalina 34'' is great boat not only to sail but to own. Here's how it has [[Evolution of the Catalina 34|evolved over the years]] through several models. <br />
<br><br />
* See the archived original FAQ and Projects pages right down below<br />
* [[History]]<br />
<br />
IMPORTANT: Please note that the wiki does not have all topics cross referenced to the daily Main Message Board. The MB has been going since 2001 or so and has a variety of technical information not "migrated" to the wiki. There are many innovative ideas, photographs and discussions of technical importance on the MB. It has a very good search engine and a suggestion on its use is here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3880.0.html<br />
<br />
*Anyone may read the topics. If you wish to add content to the wiki you must log in. Use the same user name and password that you use to access the forum.<br><br><br />
<br />
== Topics ==<br />
<br />
* [[Maintenence tips from a new owner]]<br />
* [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7323.0.html Buying Tips for an Older C34 - 1986 ]<br />
* [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6437.0.html "101" Series of Tips & Tricks ] EXTREMELY VALUABLE SERIES OF LINKS for Boating Systems & Design, includes "Electrical 101", too!!!<br />
* [RESOURCES - good M25 engine information,from a C36 owner http://realitycheck.me/resources.htm]<br />
* [[Anchoring & Docking]]<br />
* [[Cockpit]] <br />
* [[Critical Upgrades|<font color="red">CRITICAL UPGRADES</font>]]<br />
* [[Dinghies and Tenders]]<br />
* [[Electrical]]<br />
* [[Electronics]]<br />
* [[Diesel Engine| Engine]]<br />
* [[Fuel]]<br />
* [[Galley]]<br />
* [[Head]]<br />
* [[Hull]]<br />
* [[Interior]]<br />
* [[Leaks]]<br />
* [[Maintenance]]<br />
* [[Manuals]]<br />
* [[Miscellaneous]]<br />
* [[Paints & Finishes]]<br />
* [[Performance and Motoring]]<br />
* [[Plumbing]]<br />
* [[Port Lights & Hatches]]<br />
* [[Prop-shaft]]<br />
* [[Refrigeration]]<br />
* [[Rigging and Sails]]<br />
* [[Rudder| Rudder & Steering]]<br />
* [[Safety ]]<br />
* [[Storage]]<br />
* [[Stuffing box]]<br />
* [[Ventilation]]<br />
* [[Woodwork-teak]]<br />
<br />
== Another View ==<br />
<br />
<ul><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="background:white;"<br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Engine to Propeller]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Engine, Transmission, Stuffing Box, Shaft & Prop</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Rigging and Sails|Rigging]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Sails, Spars, Standing & Running Rigging</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Hull & Rudder]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Rudder Post, Helm, Keel Bolts, Updates</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Electrical]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Wiring, Batteries, Chargers, Shore Power, Generators</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Electronics]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>GPS, Chartplotters, Instruments, Autopilots</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Cockpit|On Deck]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Cockpit Tables, Swim Ladder, Dodger & Bimini </small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Cabin]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Storage, Ventilation, Woodwork, Cushions, Lighting</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Galley]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Fridge, Stove, Sink and activities in the Galley</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Head]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Head, Shower, Holding Tank, Related Systems</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Plumbing]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Hot Water, Water Tanks, Hoses, Thru hulls</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Port Lights & Hatches]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Replacing & Repairing</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Maintenance]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Leaks, Paints & Finishes, Cleaning, Teak</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Anchoring & Docking]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Gear & Techniques</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Performance|Sailing & Motoring]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Operation, c34 Specs/Performance</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Dinghy]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Stowing, Towing & Operating</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Safety]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>PDF, Harness, Jack Lines</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Misc]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>One of Kind Items</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq.html FAQs]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Archived C34 Faq page</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[http://www.c34.org/projects/projects.html Projects]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Archived C34 Projects page</small><br />
|}<br />
<br />
== By Boat/Author ==<br />
''Are you a "projects" person? Or is your boat one? Then add a "master index" page to all your projects.''<br />
''We do not require any specific minimum but would prefer at least 4 or 5 on your list.''<br><br />
''Thanks, your friendly Project's webmaster.''<br />
<br />
* [[Apache]]<br />
* [[Aquavite]]<br />
* [[BlackDragon]]<br />
* [[Espresso]]<br />
* [[Kindred Spirit]]<br />
* [[Luna Loca]]<br />
* [[Quiet Island]]<br />
* [[Weal Sea]]<br />
* [[Yorkshire Rose]]<br />
<br />
== How to add content ==<br />
<br />
[[Plain language "How to Wiki" guide]]<br />
<br />
====Templates====<br />
*[[Template double column text and pix project|Double-column text/picture template]]<br />
*[[Template messageboard query|Message Board thread compilation template]]<br />
*[[Template_simple_text_and_integrated_picture|Simple integrated text and picture project]]<br />
<br />
====Formatting help====<br />
Need some help [[Help:Contents|getting started]]<br /><br />
*[http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting Formatting guide]<br><br />
*[http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Links Linking guide]<br><br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_User_Page_Help/Do-It-Yourself/Formatting_Text#Hidden_Comment Wikipedia page design]<br />
<br />
Or consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software.<br />
<br />
== Important Notice ==<br />
<br />
Please read our site [[Notice]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br><br><br />
<small>[[Test homepage]]</small></div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=4682Diesel Engine2013-12-05T00:39:55Z<p>Stu jackson: /* Also of Interest */</p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== General ==<br />
<br />
[RESOURCES - good M25 engine information,from a C36 owner http://realitycheck.me/resources.htm] <br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Ron Hill's May 2002 Mainsheet article on Rebuilding an Oberdorfer water pump)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
* Exhaust Hose Replacement with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.0.html<br />
* Rebuilding an OBERDORFER Raw Water Pump with Flix http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html<br />
* HEAT EXCHANGER SOURCES and Replacement Bracket and Exchanger with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6920.0.html<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners by Stu Jackson'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
Engine Harness Upgrade from Maine Sail http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade and http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
Kubota Filter Equivalents http://www.orangetractortalks.com/2008/12/gray-market-kubota-oil-filter-part-numbers/<br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/manuals/ZF_Hurth_Repair_manual.pdf Transmissions:Hurth Repair Manual PDF file]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
KUBOTA equivalent parts http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,978.0.html<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]<br />
Westerbeke/Universal now has the owner manuals online. You can download them at http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/OnlineManuals.aspx<br />
<br />
Kubota Block Equivalents (you have to scroll down) http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?10241-Universal-5432-amp-M40-engine-information&highlight=kubota+block</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=4681Diesel Engine2013-12-05T00:33:59Z<p>Stu jackson: /* Also of Interest */</p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== General ==<br />
<br />
[RESOURCES - good M25 engine information,from a C36 owner http://realitycheck.me/resources.htm] <br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Ron Hill's May 2002 Mainsheet article on Rebuilding an Oberdorfer water pump)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
* Exhaust Hose Replacement with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.0.html<br />
* Rebuilding an OBERDORFER Raw Water Pump with Flix http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html<br />
* HEAT EXCHANGER SOURCES and Replacement Bracket and Exchanger with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6920.0.html<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners by Stu Jackson'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
Engine Harness Upgrade from Maine Sail http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade and http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
Kubota Filter Equivalents http://www.orangetractortalks.com/2008/12/gray-market-kubota-oil-filter-part-numbers/<br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/manuals/ZF_Hurth_Repair_manual.pdf Transmissions:Hurth Repair Manual PDF file]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
KUBOTA equivalent parts http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,978.0.html<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]<br />
Westerbeke/Universal now has the owner manuals online. You can download them at http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/OnlineManuals.aspx<br />
<br />
Kubota Block Equivalents http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?10241-Universal-5432-amp-M40-engine-information&highlight=kubota+block</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Raw_water_pump,_impellers_and_cooling_system&diff=4676Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system2013-10-19T19:42:45Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>= Raw Water Pump =<br />
<br />
If your raw water pump starts to leak out of the weep hole of the pump chassis, it can rust out the engine mount and oil pan.<br />
<br />
Rust damage from leaking raw water pump<br />
[[Image:IMG 9251-MED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Rebuilding An Oberdorfer Pump: ==<br />
<br />
This is Ron Hill's Tech Note article from the May 2002 Mainsheet<br />
<br />
<br />
If your raw water pump is leaking<br />
water or oil from the weep hole in the<br />
center of the pump body, a rebuild is in<br />
order. If the oil side leak continues, you’ll<br />
have a messy engine. If a salt-water leak<br />
continues, it WILL rust out the oil pan!<br />
The parts that you’ll need are two oil seals<br />
(#10) Part # 295627. If the shaft has 500+<br />
hours it will probably also need to be<br />
replaced. Inspect the pump shaft (#6)Part #301788, and note if it is scored in the<br />
oil seal area. For a more extensive rebuild,<br />
you might need to replace the carbon<br />
bushing if the shaft wobbles (#12) Part #302322.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Oberdorfer_pump_diagram.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Take the entire pump off the engine.<br />
Remove the pump cover faceplate (#2)<br />
and the impeller & pump shaft. If you<br />
make yourself a special tool out of an old<br />
1/4" Allen Hex Head Wrench, the job<br />
will go much faster and easier. Cut the<br />
short end of the hex wrench so it is only<br />
9/16" long (outside tip to back). Then<br />
grind down that tip until it is only 1/16"<br />
thick and round off the corners of the tip.<br />
Place the pump between two 2 x 4s with<br />
the engine side of the pump facing down.<br />
The 2 x 4s should be separated so the<br />
center hole in the pump is between them.<br />
Place the special tool on the top of the<br />
lowest oil seal and tap on all four sides<br />
with a hammer until it slides out. With<br />
the lowest seal out, use the same procedure<br />
on the upper oil seal. Although the<br />
upper seal is called an oil seal, it really<br />
keeps the water in the pump. The lower<br />
seal keeps the oil in the engine. Be careful<br />
not to damage the carbon bushing that<br />
keeps the shaft centered. The special tool<br />
tip should be short enough so you keep<br />
from scoring the inside wall of the pump.<br />
<br />
Before you replace the two oil seals,<br />
clean and inspect the inside pump wall.<br />
Apply a thin coating of "Permatex" #2<br />
non-hardening gasket sealant. This<br />
coating serves two purposes. First it will<br />
seal any scratches (scores put in the wall<br />
by a boat yard mechanic who rebuilt the<br />
pump by beating the seals out with a<br />
screwdriver!). It will also serve as a lubricant<br />
to help the new seals slide in easier.<br />
<br />
Turn the pump engine side up. Find<br />
a socket that just fits inside the pump wall<br />
(probably about a 3/4" size). When<br />
replacing the seals, the lettering and<br />
numbers should face each other. There are<br />
two ways to reinstall the seals. One is by<br />
pressing them with a vice (if you have a<br />
Optional glass Optional "swinging" vice with a large enough opening) or<br />
retainer pegs glass retainer tabs tapping them in with a hammer. Place the<br />
first seal on the pump hole with the flat<br />
side of the socket on the seal. Make sure<br />
you use the largest socket that will match<br />
the diameter of the seal so you don’t<br />
damage the seal case. Then press or tap in<br />
place. You want the seal toward the<br />
impeller side to just go past the weep<br />
holes (so it is easier to get out next time).<br />
Then recoat with #2 "Permatex" and<br />
install the second seal. The second seal<br />
needs to go into the pump hole so it is in<br />
solidly, but not all the way into the weep<br />
hole area.<br />
When reassembling the pump, don’t<br />
forget to inspect the pump cover (faceplate)<br />
for grooves made by the impeller.<br />
Take the faceplate and use some wet #400<br />
sandpaper on a flat surface and smooth<br />
out the ridges. You can also take the cover<br />
to a machine shop and they will reface it<br />
for you for about $5. If you take it to a<br />
machine shop, have them do both sides of<br />
the plate. That way the next time all you<br />
have to do is turn the plate around and<br />
you’re ready to go. Finally, reinstall the<br />
faceplate with a PAPERTHIN gasket (#3)<br />
Part # 295626. . Use a thicker gasket and<br />
you won’t have an efficient pump and the<br />
temperature will probably go up. I haven’t<br />
tried my tool on a Sherwood pump, but<br />
I’m sure that it will also facilitate in its<br />
rebuild. —Ron Hill APACHE #788<br />
<br />
<br />
Contact Depco at (800) 445-1656 for ordering replacement parts.<br />
<br />
Seal removal tool<br />
[[Image:Oberdorfer_rebuild_tool.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Installing Seals using a vice as a press<br />
[[Image:Oberdorfer_Seal_install.JPG]]<br />
<br />
NOTE: There is a post on the Main Message Board with additional pictures: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html [Stu - 10/19/2013]<br />
<br />
= Impellers =<br />
<br />
= Cooling System =</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Raw_water_pump,_impellers_and_cooling_system&diff=4675Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system2013-10-19T19:41:27Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>= Raw Water Pump =<br />
<br />
If your raw water pump starts to leak out of the weep hole of the pump chassis, it can rust out the engine mount and oil pan.<br />
<br />
Rust damage from leaking raw water pump<br />
[[Image:IMG 9251-MED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Rebuilding An Oberdorfer Pump: ==<br />
<br />
This is Ron Hill's Tech Note article from the May 2002 Mainsheet<br />
<br />
<br />
If your raw water pump is leaking<br />
water or oil from the weep hole in the<br />
center of the pump body, a rebuild is in<br />
order. If the oil side leak continues, you’ll<br />
have a messy engine. If a salt-water leak<br />
continues, it WILL rust out the oil pan!<br />
The parts that you’ll need are two oil seals<br />
(#10) Part # 295627. If the shaft has 500+<br />
hours it will probably also need to be<br />
replaced. Inspect the pump shaft (#6)Part #301788, and note if it is scored in the<br />
oil seal area. For a more extensive rebuild,<br />
you might need to replace the carbon<br />
bushing if the shaft wobbles (#12) Part #302322.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Oberdorfer_pump_diagram.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Take the entire pump off the engine.<br />
Remove the pump cover faceplate (#2)<br />
and the impeller & pump shaft. If you<br />
make yourself a special tool out of an old<br />
1/4" Allen Hex Head Wrench, the job<br />
will go much faster and easier. Cut the<br />
short end of the hex wrench so it is only<br />
9/16" long (outside tip to back). Then<br />
grind down that tip until it is only 1/16"<br />
thick and round off the corners of the tip.<br />
Place the pump between two 2 x 4s with<br />
the engine side of the pump facing down.<br />
The 2 x 4s should be separated so the<br />
center hole in the pump is between them.<br />
Place the special tool on the top of the<br />
lowest oil seal and tap on all four sides<br />
with a hammer until it slides out. With<br />
the lowest seal out, use the same procedure<br />
on the upper oil seal. Although the<br />
upper seal is called an oil seal, it really<br />
keeps the water in the pump. The lower<br />
seal keeps the oil in the engine. Be careful<br />
not to damage the carbon bushing that<br />
keeps the shaft centered. The special tool<br />
tip should be short enough so you keep<br />
from scoring the inside wall of the pump.<br />
<br />
Before you replace the two oil seals,<br />
clean and inspect the inside pump wall.<br />
Apply a thin coating of "Permatex" #2<br />
non-hardening gasket sealant. This<br />
coating serves two purposes. First it will<br />
seal any scratches (scores put in the wall<br />
by a boat yard mechanic who rebuilt the<br />
pump by beating the seals out with a<br />
screwdriver!). It will also serve as a lubricant<br />
to help the new seals slide in easier.<br />
<br />
Turn the pump engine side up. Find<br />
a socket that just fits inside the pump wall<br />
(probably about a 3/4" size). When<br />
replacing the seals, the lettering and<br />
numbers should face each other. There are<br />
two ways to reinstall the seals. One is by<br />
pressing them with a vice (if you have a<br />
Optional glass Optional "swinging" vice with a large enough opening) or<br />
retainer pegs glass retainer tabs tapping them in with a hammer. Place the<br />
first seal on the pump hole with the flat<br />
side of the socket on the seal. Make sure<br />
you use the largest socket that will match<br />
the diameter of the seal so you don’t<br />
damage the seal case. Then press or tap in<br />
place. You want the seal toward the<br />
impeller side to just go past the weep<br />
holes (so it is easier to get out next time).<br />
Then recoat with #2 "Permatex" and<br />
install the second seal. The second seal<br />
needs to go into the pump hole so it is in<br />
solidly, but not all the way into the weep<br />
hole area.<br />
When reassembling the pump, don’t<br />
forget to inspect the pump cover (faceplate)<br />
for grooves made by the impeller.<br />
Take the faceplate and use some wet #400<br />
sandpaper on a flat surface and smooth<br />
out the ridges. You can also take the cover<br />
to a machine shop and they will reface it<br />
for you for about $5. If you take it to a<br />
machine shop, have them do both sides of<br />
the plate. That way the next time all you<br />
have to do is turn the plate around and<br />
you’re ready to go. Finally, reinstall the<br />
faceplate with a PAPERTHIN gasket (#3)<br />
Part # 295626. . Use a thicker gasket and<br />
you won’t have an efficient pump and the<br />
temperature will probably go up. I haven’t<br />
tried my tool on a Sherwood pump, but<br />
I’m sure that it will also facilitate in its<br />
rebuild. —Ron Hill APACHE #788<br />
<br />
<br />
Contact Depco at (800) 445-1656 for ordering replacement parts.<br />
<br />
Seal removal tool<br />
[[Image:Oberdorfer_rebuild_tool.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Installing Seals using a vice as a press<br />
[[Image:Oberdorfer_Seal_install.JPG]]<br />
= Impellers =<br />
<br />
= Cooling System =<br />
<br />
<br />
NOTE: There is a post on the Main Message Board with additional pictures: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html [Stu - 10/19/2013]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Catalina_34_Electrical_System_Upgrade&diff=4674Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade2013-10-16T17:13:26Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
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<div>'''By Jim Moe ''[[Windseeker]]'''''<br />
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[Now includes changes to the Echo Charger wiring that moved from the switch to the individual banks (Stu October 2009)]<br />
NEW wiring diagram by Walt Tunnessen March 2010 <br />
VERY IMPORTANT MODIFICATION discussed here on the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6225.0.html<br />
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If you use an ECHO CHARGER, please be aware of important wiring information that is NOT included in the installation manual, thanks to Maine Sail: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/electrical-systems/72295-xantrex-echo-charger-rant.html<br />
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Please Note that this upgrade can also be accomplished while keeping the single 1-2-B switch with a minor change in wiring. Please see the text at the end of this article. The advantage of keeping the 1-2-B switch is that you can use the "B" position of the switch to parallel the batteries for charging and save money by not having to buy an echo charger, duo charger or combiner. Yes, it's a manual operation, but so is starting your engine!!!! And, since the AO goes directly to the house bank, you can even turn the 1-2-B switch OFF with the engine running and not have any problems. Stu, April 2010<br />
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You MUST remove the short wire between the alternator and the starter when you make this upgrade to make the 1-2-B switch a "use" switch instead of a "charge" switch. There is a lot of information in the Electrical 101 Topic on the Message Board, see the "101 Topics" sticky.<br />
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Bernd of Karista in Florida has provided ANOTHER source for replacement alternators. See the Message Board here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5686.0.html [Stu June 2010] It also notes that the B2 shorepower connection is NOT required with the echo charger.<br />
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IMPORTANT FUSE SIZE NOTE: Maine Sail recommends a minimum 200A fuse at the battery banks to avoid nuisance trips. [Oct. 2013] http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7814.0.html<br />
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<br />
==Background==<br />
The stock Catalina 34 dc power system in earlier boats was designed for minimal house loads and definitely not for extended cruising. Consequently, two similar deep cycle batteries were provided (typically Group 24 or 27) for both house loads and engine starting. This arrangement resulted in several issues for today’s typical loads of refrigeration, lighting, instrumentation, appliances and 115 Volt inverters. Additionally, really only one of the two batteries could safely be used for house loads since the second one always should be reserved for engine starting. This is a common arrangement and typical of many stock sailboats even today. <br />
<br />
The stock alternators on most earlier Catalinas are 55 Amp units with internal automotive type regulators. These are designed to replace energy used in starting, support electrical loads while the engine is running and maintain or “float” the battery. They are not designed to, nor will they efficiently, recharge a large, discharged deep cycle battery. Thus even running the engine while cruising or at anchor will not recharge a discharged house battery in any reasonable length of time nor will it provide the electrical energy typically required for extended cruising. <br />
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With the original wiring, the battery switch had to be placed on “Both” or a battery isolator installed to charge both batteries with the alternator. Using the battery switch in this manner at times resulted in forgetting it in the “Both” position when the engine was shut down, thus discharging both batteries and having a dead engine. A battery isolator intended to correct this inserted a voltage drop of around 0.7 Volts between the alternator and each battery which effectively prevented the alternator from recharging depleted batteries to more than 60-70% of capacity regardless of how long the charging continued.. <br />
<br />
The battery cables provided in these boats are very long due to the battery location relative to the battery switch and engine. This, and the small wire size (#4), significantly reduced the current available to the starter. If the battery was partially discharged, particularly in very hot or very cold weather, there often was inadequate current to start the engine. <br />
<br />
==The solution ==<br />
The solution to these problems requires several upgrades as follows:<br />
<br />
#Replacing the existing pair of similar batteries with a large house load battery bank and an isolated, smaller dedicated engine starting battery. <br />
#Replacing the alternator with a higher current equivalent along with a “smart” regulator designed to more rapidly recharge a discharged house battery. <br />
#Installing an Echo Charge unit or Battery Combiner to automatically charge both house and engine starting batteries from the alternator without incurring the voltage drop of a battery isolator and to avoid requiring the 1-2-BOTH switch to select which bank to charge. <br />
#Installing a “smart” three-stage shore power charger to rapidly recharge a discharged house battery and eliminate overcharging either battery if the charger is left on for extended periods. <br />
#Revising the DC power wiring to accomplish the above requirements and conform to current ABYC codes. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Battery Replacement==<br />
<br />
Fortunately, four deep discharge six volt golf cart batteries will just fit in the existing battery box for Mk I boats. These offer the specific characteristics required on a cruising boat, namely to supply house load power for one to three days between charges, repeatedly, over a long life span. Because they are used in large numbers for golf carts, the price is reasonable. However, they should be purchased from a local battery jobber to avoid the traditionally high marine markups and “hazardous material” shipping costs. Check the Internet for more details, availability and dealers. <br />
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These six volt batteries must be connected in series-parallel to supply 12 Volts at the capacity required. Trojan brand Model T105 batteries are high quality and readily available in most locations and have become something of an industry leader in capacity, quality and life. They are rated at 225 Amp hours each so the four in a series-parallel arrangement will provide a nominal 12 Volts with 450 Amp hours compared to the 105 Amp hours of the original Group 24 battery. <br />
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For later model boats originally equipped with two 4-D batteries, these can be connected in parallel providing only a slightly lower capacity house battery than the four golf cart batteries noted above. If you have a fairly new boat or new batteries, this may be the way to go. <br />
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A note is necessary here regarding connecting any high-capacity lead-acid batteries in parallel. It must only be done using batteries of the same type (flooded, gel-cell or AGM). Further, batteries must have the same manufacturer, be the same model and of be essentially the same age and condition. If one battery fails internally, causing a short circuit, and the other is relatively new and fully charged, a high circulating current can occur between the two resulting in acid expulsion and overheating. If both are charged and discharged together as a pair from new, they will age similarly and avoid this problem. Thus paralleling batteries for higher capacity can be done without concern if these conditions are met. <br />
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If installing the four golf cart batteries, a plywood base should be made for the existing battery box using ½" marine plywood to provide a solid base for the batteries. When installing them, two should be placed in the battery box and pushed to the stb side of the boat. Then there is space for the other two. Hold-down braces can be made using 1½" x 1½" hardwood. These should be cut so that they fit on top of the batteries and extend under the fiberglass flanges of the settee base. They can be secured with bolts extending through the fiberglass flanges and the hardwood bracing to apply downward force on the tops of the batteries. Be sure to allow access to the filler caps. Paint both base and hold-downs with at least two coats to resist any spilled battery acid. Alternative installation methods have been covered in an earlier Mainsheet Tech Note section. <br />
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There is an additional hidden benefit here. Fortunately, the additional weight of the four batteries helps to offset the congenital port list present in all C34s. <br />
<br />
==Starting battery==<br />
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A standard automotive or marine starting battery can be used for engine starting, but not a deep-discharge type. Starting batteries are designed to provide high starting current intermittently but will tolerate few deep-discharge cycles. A General Motors type side terminal starting battery is lower in height, fits in tight places and has protected terminals. Since the Universal diesel is small compared to automotive engines, the smallest size battery you can get will be adequate.<br />
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A good location is under the aft cabin bed under the forward removable cover since this allows short cable runs and is away from the heat of the engine. However, it could be mounted in other locations as well. If the total cable run (total of positive and negative wires) exceeds 15' it would be best to use #1 cable rather than the #2 shown on the schematic. <br />
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Cut a plywood base for the battery and shape two wedges to conform to the hull of the boat to support it. Use fiberglass and resin (West System epoxy is best) to tab the wedges to the hull. Again, paint both the wedges (after they are glassed in) and the base to resist acid. Automotive batteries now generally use bottom clamps for hold-downs and these can be fashioned using wood cleats to engage the flanges provided on the battery. <br />
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==Alternator & Regulator ==<br />
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All internally regulated automotive and marine alternators have only a “float” battery charging capability. This is accomplished by regulating the alternator output to 13.6-13.9 Volts (depending on temperature). By regulating the voltage to this level, even when charging a deeply discharged deep-cycle battery, the regulator cuts back significantly on the charging current within a few minutes of starting the engine as the battery voltage recovers to this voltage level. The regulator is designed to replace the small amount of energy used for starting and support loads while the engine is running as it is in an automobile. It is not designed to periodically recharge a discharged battery rapidly since this almost never occurs. <br />
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For use on a cruising sailboat the alternator must rapidly recharge the house battery. For this it must be configured for an external, processor based three-stage “smart” regulator. The external regulator plugs into the alternator with the two-contact plug supplied with the regulator. These regulators provide a “bulk” charge for rapid recovery of the battery at a high alternator voltage of 14.1-14.3 Volts which maintains the charging current at 30-80 Amps depending upon battery condition. This continues until the battery has recovered to 75-80% capacity. They then cut back to a slightly lower voltage which results in an “acceptance” charging rate of 10-15 Amps, and then to a “float” voltage of 13.5-13.7 Volts which charges the battery at a low amperage rate when it has reached 90-95% capacity. These voltages are for flooded lead-acid batteries but are adjustable for other battery types (gel or AGM). <br />
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Both Xantrex and Balmar make excellent three-stage regulators of this type for marine application. They are available from most marine equipment suppliers. It is essential to use a higher capacity alternator when using these three-stage regulators since there is no current limiting control in the system. Current is determined only by the voltage regulation of the regulator, internal resistance of the alternator and battery, and engine speed . Thus with a large, discharged house battery the charging current in the first “bulk” stage can easily be as high as 70-80 amps and the alternator must be able to handle this load. <br />
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There are several high capacity alternators available from Balmar and several other suppliers which use external regulators and will fit the rather confined space in the C34 engine compartment. Because of this tight space and the single belt drive, it is necessary to limit the alternator size to 100 Amps maximum and use a “small case” alternator. The Universal engine requires a type 712-912 mount which is a single 2" long foot. If using a Balmar alternator, note that there is a clearance problem with either the stock Universal bracket arm or the one supplied by Balmar and the Balmar fan. This requires relieving the bracket arm with a file to clear the fan. <br />
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A lower cost unit of this type is made by Blue Circle Auto Electric in Grand View, Wisconsin based on a Delco small case industrial engine alternator with this type mount and an external regulator. Their ordering reference for a 100 Amp unit which will replace the original Motorola unit on Universal diesel engines without any modifications is M-7102-HD. Price is $175.00 plus $11.55 S&H [as of May 2012 - Stu]. The Blue Circle phone is 888 932-2423. <br />
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The alternator and water pump drive belt must be extremely heavy duty to withstand the torque of a high output alternator and a hardware store V-belt will last only hours. Get a high quality, heavy duty belt from an automotive store such as NAPA. A belt with notches on the inside is best as these provide better cooling for the belt. Alignment of the three belt pulleys is also critical with this high a belt load. This must be corrected if the pulleys are at all out of line, even if there were no problems with the stock Motorola alternator. Use a straightedge to check this after mounting the new alternator A #7390 or #7400 belt should fit. <br />
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[03/24/2013] - My adjusting bracket broke. Since a new one would have taken two weeks to obtain through the local Universal dealer or Torreson, I had one made locally, a tad thicker, too. I use 7400 3/8" belts on our 100A Blue Circle alternator (using the metric bolts). I found the alternator bottomed out the new bracket and I couldn't get tension. I tried a backup 7390 belt I had, too short. I went to NAPA and found they make a 7395 belt.<br />
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==Echo Charge or Combiner ==<br />
<br />
Manually or permanently connecting the alternator output to both the house battery and starting battery would defeat the purpose of isolating the starting battery. Use of a diode isolator, which was common practice some years ago, introduces a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery as indicated above. Since the regulator determines the state of charge of the battery by measuring the alternator voltage, this voltage drop (typically 0.7 volts) deceives the regulator and makes the battery charge level appear higher than it really is. Consequently, this will result in chronically undercharged batteries and is incompatible with any three-stage “smart” regulator. <br />
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A Battery Combiner (also known by as a Pathmaker) senses the battery voltage and when it is being charged, operates a relay connecting the house battery and starting battery together. When the engine is shut down and the alternator is no longer charging, it opens the relay and isolates the batteries. This overcomes the shortcomings of the isolator. The alternator should always be connected to the house battery and the combiner connects the starting battery only when the alternator is charging. <br />
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The Battery Combiner works fairly well in most applications. However, it will tend to overcharge the engine starting battery when using a high current (80 - 100 Amp) alternator and the house battery is discharged and recharged regularly, as it would be on a long cruise or at anchor with periodic engine charging. To avoid this, Xantrex developed an Echo Charge unit which uses a separate solid state regulator instead of a Combiner to charge the starting battery independently of the current and voltage being applied to the house battery. <br />
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[Added by Stu 10/21/09] A few years after Jim wrote this article, he noted to me that he had MOVED the Echo Charger connections FROM the 1-2-B switch posts TO the banks themselves. The reason is a simple operational one, and is discussed in this Message Board thread, see Reply #31, [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4787.30.html]. The complete text of that change is included at the end of this article.<br />
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This is desirable since the starting battery has only the short-time load of the glow plugs and starter while the house battery is routinely discharged for long periods with the engine shut down. Consequently, the charging requirements for the two batteries are totally different. The Xantrex Echo Charge unit typically limits the charging current for the starting battery to around 15 Amps maximum and cuts it back to near zero as that battery approaches full charge. This is done essentially independently of the state of charge or charging current for the house battery. <br />
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Connecting the alternator directly to the house battery is a better arrangement than passing the charging circuit through a battery switch as was done in the stock Catalina wiring for several reasons. Besides the improved charging characteristics covered above, it avoids the problem of opening the charging circuit while charging heavily and damaging the alternator diodes. <br />
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For further reading on high output alternators, “smart” regulators, Combiners, Echo Charge units and marine battery charging see West Marine’s “West Advisor®” write-ups in their catalog on these subjects. Also check www.amplepower.com and download their “Ample Power Primer.” <br />
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==Shore Power Charger ==<br />
<br />
There has been a significant technological improvement in shore power chargers in recent years. Sophisticated voltage control and processor based three-stage charging, as covered above under alternators, have become the standard. This overcomes the tendency of the older and poorly regulated “constant voltage” chargers or ferro-resonant chargers to overcharge the batteries if left on for long periods. The newer chargers recharge discharged house batteries much more quickly while optimizing battery life. <br />
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A 20 Amp charger is adequate for use with a four T105 or two D4 house battery bank and a separate starting battery. Since each of the multiple outputs is regulated independently, the charger adjusts for differences in charging current required by the two batteries. It will charge both batteries even with the battery switches off. <br />
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Light, compact “switch mode” chargers are available from Xantrex (Truecharge) at reasonable prices. A convenient location for the battery charger on a C34 is on the forward bulkhead of the port cockpit locker (yes, you can get in there if you clear everything out). An additional advantage of these chargers is that they do not have the hum or buzz typical of the older units. Xantrex offers a remote indication panel which may be mounted near the C34 electrical panel. <br />
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==Wiring Revisions ==<br />
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The schematic diagram shows a wiring scheme for combining the above upgrades with the existing wiring in an older Catalina 34. The four six volt golf cart batteries are shown wired in series-parallel to provide 12 volts. In later boats, the two original equipment D4 batteries may be connected in parallel for the house battery in lieu of the four golf cart batteries shown. Fuses are shown in the battery and charging leads as is now required by the ABYC code. <br />
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Both the lead to the switch and the lead to the alternator must be independently fused as shown. The shore power battery charger leads must be fused as well but these fuses will generally be 30 Amps maximum so automotive style fuses and in-line fuse-holders may be used. Fuses should be located within the battery box and with the batteries located to stb, there is space on the port side of the battery box for the large fuses. A reasonably priced line of high-amperage fuses is the Blue Seas series #5000 Mega Fuses (#5001 fuse holder). <br />
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[[image:catalinaElectricalschematic.jpg|border|350px]]<br />
<br>Click to enlarge and/or download [[media:CatalinaElectricalschematic.pdf|PDF version]]<br />
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Though not shown on the wiring diagram, bus bar terminals such as Blue Seas #2106 250 Amp “Maxi Bus” may be used to combine the several leads shown connected to the battery terminals. This is also necessary if you have more than one lead going to the battery negative and are using a Link 10 or similar battery monitor which requires a shunt for current measurement and a single lead to the negative post. <br />
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Only one of the existing #4 red leads from the battery box to the switch is needed. This is connected from the positive lead of the battery to position #1 of the existing switch. The other lead may be removed, left in as a spare for an inverter, or connected in parallel with the other lead to reduce voltage drop. The existing #4 black ground lead from the battery negative to the engine is used. While the voltage drop in the original #4 battery leads was excessive for routine engine starting, it is adequate for all house loads and occasional engine starting due to the increased house battery capacity and lower internal resistance. <br />
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Ancor brand cables with swaged terminals for jumpers between the six volt batteries are available from many marine stores or cables may be made up as required if you have a proper sized crimper to handle #4 wire and terminals. A new #6 red wire must be run from the battery box to the alternator for charging from the alternator. This is the only new wire from the engine area to the battery box that needs to be run, assuming the shore power charger wiring is already in place. <br />
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Most Catalinas used a plastic conduit for the wires from the engine to the battery box and it may be possible to get this wire in the existing conduit. If not, it should be protected with a flexible plastic 1/2" or 3/4" conduit available in the electrical department of Home Depot or similar store. The existing red #4 lead from the starter solenoid to the battery switch is used, but is removed from the common terminal of the switch and connected to position #2 of the switch. Since the starting battery is also connected to the starter solenoid, this wire effectively goes to the starting battery as well and is used both for charging and emergency starting from the house battery bank.<br />
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With the revised wiring, position #1 of the battery switch is for normal operation. The switch should be left in this position at all times unless you want to isolate the house battery when the boat is unattended or for emergencies. If the switch is placed in the “Both” position, the starting and house batteries are paralleled or, if the starting battery switch is off, the house battery alone will be connected for engine starting. If the house battery is ever completely discharged, the starting battery may be used in an emergency for lighting, radio, etc. by placing the switch in the #2 position. In this case, the house battery is totally isolated. Obviously, the switch should never be placed in the “Both” or #2 positions except in emergencies as either could result in house loads inadvertently depleting the starting battery. The starting battery is connected directly to the starter solenoid terminal as it is in an automobile. <br />
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A fuse and a battery switch are shown in this circuit to protect the wiring and to isolate the battery if desired. The same type fuse as used for the house battery should be located near the battery. The switch should also be located near the battery to minimize the wire run to the starter solenoid. Blue Seas #9006, BEP #700-701 or Hella #87181 switches will handle the starting current, are small and reasonably priced. The starting battery ground cable can be attached to any convenient bolt on the engine block. <br />
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If a side terminal automotive battery is selected, good quality standard side terminal automotive battery cables with swaged terminals can be used. Belden brand battery cables are excellent quality and carried by all NAPA stores in various lengths with factory swaged terminals. Ancor brand cables with swaged ring terminals in several lengths are available from West Marine and other marine stores for runs from a marine starting battery with eye terminals and/or runs from fuse block to switch and switch to starter solenoid. These should be used for all the #2 and #4 jumper leads for both batteries if you don’t have access to a large crimper to make up the cables yourself. <br />
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As crimped or swaged terminals for #2, #4 and #6 wire are un-insulated, all of these terminals should be sleeved with Ancor brand shrink tubing coated internally with adhesive. This will provide maximum corrosion resistance and battery acid “wicking” up the copper conductors inside the vinyl insulation. <br />
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The charging circuits for the shore power charger should be connected independently to both batteries as shown. Shore power chargers with multiple battery outputs provide the required isolation between batteries and independent regulation for each battery. Leads from the positive terminals of the charger to the positive terminals of the batteries should be protected with fuses near the battery in the same manner as the positive power leads. Fuses should be rated at 150% of the charger capacity. <br />
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Loads which are “always on,” such as bilge pumps, etc., as well as alternate charging systems, should be connected directly to the house battery. These may be connected either to the #1 terminal of the battery switch or directly to the positive battery terminal and each must be protected with a fuse or circuit breaker rated at 150% of the current rating of the device. If connected directly to the battery, it may be necessary to use a bus bar terminal (as indicated above for the negative battery terminal) to avoid an excessive buildup of connections on the positive battery post. <br />
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==Glow plug solenoid==<br />
Though technically not a part of the overall dc power system upgrade, the schematic shows a solenoid relay for operating the engine glow plugs. If your boat is wired to operate the glow plugs directly from the ignition switch or push-button and is not already equipped with a solenoid relay in this circuit, it would be desirable to include this modification in the general electrical power upgrade. The voltage drop in the wiring harness and glow plug switch or pushbutton as provided on earlier boats significantly reduces glow plug effectivity and can cause hard starting, particularly when it’s cold. <br />
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A suitable solenoid relay, Cole Hersee #24106-BP, is available from West Marine. Install it at the rear of the engine, making sure at least one of the mounting flanges is grounded to the engine. Disconnect the wire coming from the Universal harness to the rear glow plug. Connect this to the small terminal on the solenoid relay. Connect a fused #10 lead from the starter solenoid to either large terminal of the solenoid relay and another #10 lead from the other large terminal to the rear glow plug. <br />
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Where it typically took 20-50 seconds previously to preheat the glow plugs with a cold engine, it should take only 8-12 seconds to preheat them after the conversion. Current Westerbeke-Universal diesel engines come equipped with this type of solenoid relay. This improvement is well described on the C34 Web site Projects page at [[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical/glowplugs glow plugs]].<br />
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'''CHANGES TO JIM MOE'S WIRING DIAGRAM - ECHO CHARGERS and WIRING CHANGES TO KEEP THE 1-2-B SWITCH'''<br />
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(from a MB topic discussion) In Reply #11, Item 3, on this topic, I mentioned that Jim Moe had CHANGED his echo charger connections FROM the 1-2-B switch connections TO the bank (+) posts. <br />
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This is a VERY IMPORTANT modification. <br />
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SEE UPDATED WIRING DIAGRAM<br />
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[[image:UPDATED_C34ElecTHUMB.jpg|border|350px]]<br />
Click this link to download the high res version [[media:UPDATED_CatalinaElectricSystem.jpg]]<br />
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In a discussion recently on co.com (see: [http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=107109]) we discussed this very issue. It is an operational, not electrical design issue. This is a copy of the pertinent ideas from that full thread. <br />
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Bob wrote: "It looks to me that if that switch [reserve bank on/off switch] was off the echo charger wouldn't be doing it's job."<br />
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I replied: As Jim's wiring diagram is set up, you are completely correct. I spoke with Jim since he published this in 2004, and he noted that based on my suggestion he has moved the echo charger from as shown to the battery (+) posts as recommended by the echo charger manufacturer.<br />
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The following is very IMPORTANT to understand: Since his operating concept is to turn the reserve bank switch ON when he gets on the boat and he doesn't leave it plugged in when he's away, what you point out, quite correctly, is not an issue for him if wired this way. Again, you're right: if the reserve bank switch was OFF, and wired this way, the echo charger would NOT charge the reserve bank. Period. If wired to the banks, it wouldn't matter and would always work.<br />
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The co.com link also explains how you can change Jim's wiring diagram with two switches to my "preferred" single 1-2-B switch design with just two simple wiring mods. And given this link, there are way more other designs out there, too.<br />
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Here's how: <br />
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Here's what you CAN DO - based on Jim's diagram ONLY to change from Jim's two switch design to Stu's single 1-2-B switch design:<br />
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1. Take the reserve on/off switch and throw it out (or just leave it ON)<br />
2. Conceptually: Run the reserve (+) DIRECTLY to the #2 post of the 1-2-B switch for power TO the switch and run a wire from the output "C" post of the switch to the starter solenoid<br />
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To do this you need to do two things:<br />
1) Take what's shown as the "Existing #4 red" between the starter & the #2 post and MOVE it FROM the "2" post TO the "C" post of the 1-2-B switch, and leave it on the starter. This gives you power TO the starter from either bank. It also lets you parallel the banks if your echo charger fails (backup, backup, backup...)<br />
2) Run a new wire from the (+) output of the reserve bank to the #2 post of the switch, without that pesky second on/off switch. Do not run ANYTHING from the reserve bank to the starter solenoid, go only directly to the switch. (The wiring sizes are your choice.)<br />
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You're done.<br />
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Bob, what this does is make the 1-2-B switch THE controller for the output to the starter from either of the 2 battery banks (and, of course, to the DP).<br />
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It also does exactly what I've been suggesting all along - uses the simple 1-2-B switch to control everything. It changes Jim's design to mine!!!<br />
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1. The 1-2-B switch is only used for battery bank selection and output to two things; the DP and the starter (the "always on" loads can be left as shown or run directly to the house bank or other switches and fuses - your choice)<br />
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2. The alternator output goes to the house bank [nowhere near the switch!!!] with a combiner, echo charger, etc. used to supply the reserve bank. Also see the discussion below about using the 1-2-B switch for that purpose.<br />
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Simple, eh?<br />
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The downside of "Stu's design" is that engine starting from the house bank can knock electronics off line. That's why some folks prefer having the reserve bank always start the engine.<br />
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Your boat, your choice.<br />
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For more thoughts on this, see: Alternator Output & Battery Switch Wiring: [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4934.0.html]<br />
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'''Option Summary:''' Either use Jim's two switch design or my preferred "Keep the 1-2-B Switch arrangement" which is:<br />
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1. continue to use the 1-2-B switch<br />
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2. AO direct to house bank<br />
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3. each bank output to 1-2-B switch<br />
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4. C post of switch to distribution panel and starter solenoid<br />
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5. either use an echo charger to charge the reserve bank or use the B position on the switch - simple <br />
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'''ABOUT CHANGING YOUR OEM ALTERNATOR'''<br />
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You don't "HAVE TO" upgrade the alternator, because the acceptance of the battery bank will limit the current that can go into them. In most cases the original internal regulator with the stock alternator will provide enough amperage to keep your house bank between the 50% and 85% SOC quite well, albeit somewhat longer than a newer higher output alternator would. Smaller alternator, less charging, longer charging time. If, however, you're a weekend warrior, it'll make little difference. In all cases, though, there is a steadily diminishing law of input power from an alternator alone on a house bank, which is why, unless you have alternate charging sources like solar or wind, you will need to plug into shorepower at least weekly to bring your house bank up to full. Written up in most reliable electrical source books, like Calder.</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Catalina_34_Electrical_System_Upgrade&diff=4673Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade2013-10-10T18:45:36Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
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<div>'''By Jim Moe ''[[Windseeker]]'''''<br />
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[Now includes changes to the Echo Charger wiring that moved from the switch to the individual banks (Stu October 2009)]<br />
NEW wiring diagram by Walt Tunnessen March 2010 <br />
VERY IMPORTANT MODIFICATION discussed here on the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6225.0.html<br />
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If you use an ECHO CHARGER, please be aware of important wiring information that is NOT included in the installation manual, thanks to Maine Sail: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/electrical-systems/72295-xantrex-echo-charger-rant.html<br />
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Please Note that this upgrade can also be accomplished while keeping the single 1-2-B switch with a minor change in wiring. Please see the text at the end of this article. The advantage of keeping the 1-2-B switch is that you can use the "B" position of the switch to parallel the batteries for charging and save money by not having to buy an echo charger, duo charger or combiner. Yes, it's a manual operation, but so is starting your engine!!!! And, since the AO goes directly to the house bank, you can even turn the 1-2-B switch OFF with the engine running and not have any problems. Stu, April 2010<br />
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You MUST remove the short wire between the alternator and the starter when you make this upgrade to make the 1-2-B switch a "use" switch instead of a "charge" switch. There is a lot of information in the Electrical 101 Topic on the Message Board, see the "101 Topics" sticky.<br />
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Bernd of Karista in Florida has provided ANOTHER source for replacement alternators. See the Message Board here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5686.0.html [Stu June 2010] It also notes that the B2 shorepower connection is NOT required with the echo charger.<br />
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IMPORTANT FUSE SIZE NOTE: Maine Sail recommends a minimum 200A fuse at the battery banks to avoid nuisance trips. [Oct. 2013]<br />
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==Background==<br />
The stock Catalina 34 dc power system in earlier boats was designed for minimal house loads and definitely not for extended cruising. Consequently, two similar deep cycle batteries were provided (typically Group 24 or 27) for both house loads and engine starting. This arrangement resulted in several issues for today’s typical loads of refrigeration, lighting, instrumentation, appliances and 115 Volt inverters. Additionally, really only one of the two batteries could safely be used for house loads since the second one always should be reserved for engine starting. This is a common arrangement and typical of many stock sailboats even today. <br />
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The stock alternators on most earlier Catalinas are 55 Amp units with internal automotive type regulators. These are designed to replace energy used in starting, support electrical loads while the engine is running and maintain or “float” the battery. They are not designed to, nor will they efficiently, recharge a large, discharged deep cycle battery. Thus even running the engine while cruising or at anchor will not recharge a discharged house battery in any reasonable length of time nor will it provide the electrical energy typically required for extended cruising. <br />
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With the original wiring, the battery switch had to be placed on “Both” or a battery isolator installed to charge both batteries with the alternator. Using the battery switch in this manner at times resulted in forgetting it in the “Both” position when the engine was shut down, thus discharging both batteries and having a dead engine. A battery isolator intended to correct this inserted a voltage drop of around 0.7 Volts between the alternator and each battery which effectively prevented the alternator from recharging depleted batteries to more than 60-70% of capacity regardless of how long the charging continued.. <br />
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The battery cables provided in these boats are very long due to the battery location relative to the battery switch and engine. This, and the small wire size (#4), significantly reduced the current available to the starter. If the battery was partially discharged, particularly in very hot or very cold weather, there often was inadequate current to start the engine. <br />
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==The solution ==<br />
The solution to these problems requires several upgrades as follows:<br />
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#Replacing the existing pair of similar batteries with a large house load battery bank and an isolated, smaller dedicated engine starting battery. <br />
#Replacing the alternator with a higher current equivalent along with a “smart” regulator designed to more rapidly recharge a discharged house battery. <br />
#Installing an Echo Charge unit or Battery Combiner to automatically charge both house and engine starting batteries from the alternator without incurring the voltage drop of a battery isolator and to avoid requiring the 1-2-BOTH switch to select which bank to charge. <br />
#Installing a “smart” three-stage shore power charger to rapidly recharge a discharged house battery and eliminate overcharging either battery if the charger is left on for extended periods. <br />
#Revising the DC power wiring to accomplish the above requirements and conform to current ABYC codes. <br />
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==Battery Replacement==<br />
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Fortunately, four deep discharge six volt golf cart batteries will just fit in the existing battery box for Mk I boats. These offer the specific characteristics required on a cruising boat, namely to supply house load power for one to three days between charges, repeatedly, over a long life span. Because they are used in large numbers for golf carts, the price is reasonable. However, they should be purchased from a local battery jobber to avoid the traditionally high marine markups and “hazardous material” shipping costs. Check the Internet for more details, availability and dealers. <br />
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These six volt batteries must be connected in series-parallel to supply 12 Volts at the capacity required. Trojan brand Model T105 batteries are high quality and readily available in most locations and have become something of an industry leader in capacity, quality and life. They are rated at 225 Amp hours each so the four in a series-parallel arrangement will provide a nominal 12 Volts with 450 Amp hours compared to the 105 Amp hours of the original Group 24 battery. <br />
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For later model boats originally equipped with two 4-D batteries, these can be connected in parallel providing only a slightly lower capacity house battery than the four golf cart batteries noted above. If you have a fairly new boat or new batteries, this may be the way to go. <br />
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A note is necessary here regarding connecting any high-capacity lead-acid batteries in parallel. It must only be done using batteries of the same type (flooded, gel-cell or AGM). Further, batteries must have the same manufacturer, be the same model and of be essentially the same age and condition. If one battery fails internally, causing a short circuit, and the other is relatively new and fully charged, a high circulating current can occur between the two resulting in acid expulsion and overheating. If both are charged and discharged together as a pair from new, they will age similarly and avoid this problem. Thus paralleling batteries for higher capacity can be done without concern if these conditions are met. <br />
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If installing the four golf cart batteries, a plywood base should be made for the existing battery box using ½" marine plywood to provide a solid base for the batteries. When installing them, two should be placed in the battery box and pushed to the stb side of the boat. Then there is space for the other two. Hold-down braces can be made using 1½" x 1½" hardwood. These should be cut so that they fit on top of the batteries and extend under the fiberglass flanges of the settee base. They can be secured with bolts extending through the fiberglass flanges and the hardwood bracing to apply downward force on the tops of the batteries. Be sure to allow access to the filler caps. Paint both base and hold-downs with at least two coats to resist any spilled battery acid. Alternative installation methods have been covered in an earlier Mainsheet Tech Note section. <br />
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There is an additional hidden benefit here. Fortunately, the additional weight of the four batteries helps to offset the congenital port list present in all C34s. <br />
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==Starting battery==<br />
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A standard automotive or marine starting battery can be used for engine starting, but not a deep-discharge type. Starting batteries are designed to provide high starting current intermittently but will tolerate few deep-discharge cycles. A General Motors type side terminal starting battery is lower in height, fits in tight places and has protected terminals. Since the Universal diesel is small compared to automotive engines, the smallest size battery you can get will be adequate.<br />
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A good location is under the aft cabin bed under the forward removable cover since this allows short cable runs and is away from the heat of the engine. However, it could be mounted in other locations as well. If the total cable run (total of positive and negative wires) exceeds 15' it would be best to use #1 cable rather than the #2 shown on the schematic. <br />
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Cut a plywood base for the battery and shape two wedges to conform to the hull of the boat to support it. Use fiberglass and resin (West System epoxy is best) to tab the wedges to the hull. Again, paint both the wedges (after they are glassed in) and the base to resist acid. Automotive batteries now generally use bottom clamps for hold-downs and these can be fashioned using wood cleats to engage the flanges provided on the battery. <br />
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==Alternator & Regulator ==<br />
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All internally regulated automotive and marine alternators have only a “float” battery charging capability. This is accomplished by regulating the alternator output to 13.6-13.9 Volts (depending on temperature). By regulating the voltage to this level, even when charging a deeply discharged deep-cycle battery, the regulator cuts back significantly on the charging current within a few minutes of starting the engine as the battery voltage recovers to this voltage level. The regulator is designed to replace the small amount of energy used for starting and support loads while the engine is running as it is in an automobile. It is not designed to periodically recharge a discharged battery rapidly since this almost never occurs. <br />
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For use on a cruising sailboat the alternator must rapidly recharge the house battery. For this it must be configured for an external, processor based three-stage “smart” regulator. The external regulator plugs into the alternator with the two-contact plug supplied with the regulator. These regulators provide a “bulk” charge for rapid recovery of the battery at a high alternator voltage of 14.1-14.3 Volts which maintains the charging current at 30-80 Amps depending upon battery condition. This continues until the battery has recovered to 75-80% capacity. They then cut back to a slightly lower voltage which results in an “acceptance” charging rate of 10-15 Amps, and then to a “float” voltage of 13.5-13.7 Volts which charges the battery at a low amperage rate when it has reached 90-95% capacity. These voltages are for flooded lead-acid batteries but are adjustable for other battery types (gel or AGM). <br />
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Both Xantrex and Balmar make excellent three-stage regulators of this type for marine application. They are available from most marine equipment suppliers. It is essential to use a higher capacity alternator when using these three-stage regulators since there is no current limiting control in the system. Current is determined only by the voltage regulation of the regulator, internal resistance of the alternator and battery, and engine speed . Thus with a large, discharged house battery the charging current in the first “bulk” stage can easily be as high as 70-80 amps and the alternator must be able to handle this load. <br />
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There are several high capacity alternators available from Balmar and several other suppliers which use external regulators and will fit the rather confined space in the C34 engine compartment. Because of this tight space and the single belt drive, it is necessary to limit the alternator size to 100 Amps maximum and use a “small case” alternator. The Universal engine requires a type 712-912 mount which is a single 2" long foot. If using a Balmar alternator, note that there is a clearance problem with either the stock Universal bracket arm or the one supplied by Balmar and the Balmar fan. This requires relieving the bracket arm with a file to clear the fan. <br />
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A lower cost unit of this type is made by Blue Circle Auto Electric in Grand View, Wisconsin based on a Delco small case industrial engine alternator with this type mount and an external regulator. Their ordering reference for a 100 Amp unit which will replace the original Motorola unit on Universal diesel engines without any modifications is M-7102-HD. Price is $175.00 plus $11.55 S&H [as of May 2012 - Stu]. The Blue Circle phone is 888 932-2423. <br />
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The alternator and water pump drive belt must be extremely heavy duty to withstand the torque of a high output alternator and a hardware store V-belt will last only hours. Get a high quality, heavy duty belt from an automotive store such as NAPA. A belt with notches on the inside is best as these provide better cooling for the belt. Alignment of the three belt pulleys is also critical with this high a belt load. This must be corrected if the pulleys are at all out of line, even if there were no problems with the stock Motorola alternator. Use a straightedge to check this after mounting the new alternator A #7390 or #7400 belt should fit. <br />
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[03/24/2013] - My adjusting bracket broke. Since a new one would have taken two weeks to obtain through the local Universal dealer or Torreson, I had one made locally, a tad thicker, too. I use 7400 3/8" belts on our 100A Blue Circle alternator (using the metric bolts). I found the alternator bottomed out the new bracket and I couldn't get tension. I tried a backup 7390 belt I had, too short. I went to NAPA and found they make a 7395 belt.<br />
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==Echo Charge or Combiner ==<br />
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Manually or permanently connecting the alternator output to both the house battery and starting battery would defeat the purpose of isolating the starting battery. Use of a diode isolator, which was common practice some years ago, introduces a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery as indicated above. Since the regulator determines the state of charge of the battery by measuring the alternator voltage, this voltage drop (typically 0.7 volts) deceives the regulator and makes the battery charge level appear higher than it really is. Consequently, this will result in chronically undercharged batteries and is incompatible with any three-stage “smart” regulator. <br />
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A Battery Combiner (also known by as a Pathmaker) senses the battery voltage and when it is being charged, operates a relay connecting the house battery and starting battery together. When the engine is shut down and the alternator is no longer charging, it opens the relay and isolates the batteries. This overcomes the shortcomings of the isolator. The alternator should always be connected to the house battery and the combiner connects the starting battery only when the alternator is charging. <br />
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The Battery Combiner works fairly well in most applications. However, it will tend to overcharge the engine starting battery when using a high current (80 - 100 Amp) alternator and the house battery is discharged and recharged regularly, as it would be on a long cruise or at anchor with periodic engine charging. To avoid this, Xantrex developed an Echo Charge unit which uses a separate solid state regulator instead of a Combiner to charge the starting battery independently of the current and voltage being applied to the house battery. <br />
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[Added by Stu 10/21/09] A few years after Jim wrote this article, he noted to me that he had MOVED the Echo Charger connections FROM the 1-2-B switch posts TO the banks themselves. The reason is a simple operational one, and is discussed in this Message Board thread, see Reply #31, [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4787.30.html]. The complete text of that change is included at the end of this article.<br />
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This is desirable since the starting battery has only the short-time load of the glow plugs and starter while the house battery is routinely discharged for long periods with the engine shut down. Consequently, the charging requirements for the two batteries are totally different. The Xantrex Echo Charge unit typically limits the charging current for the starting battery to around 15 Amps maximum and cuts it back to near zero as that battery approaches full charge. This is done essentially independently of the state of charge or charging current for the house battery. <br />
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Connecting the alternator directly to the house battery is a better arrangement than passing the charging circuit through a battery switch as was done in the stock Catalina wiring for several reasons. Besides the improved charging characteristics covered above, it avoids the problem of opening the charging circuit while charging heavily and damaging the alternator diodes. <br />
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For further reading on high output alternators, “smart” regulators, Combiners, Echo Charge units and marine battery charging see West Marine’s “West Advisor®” write-ups in their catalog on these subjects. Also check www.amplepower.com and download their “Ample Power Primer.” <br />
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==Shore Power Charger ==<br />
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There has been a significant technological improvement in shore power chargers in recent years. Sophisticated voltage control and processor based three-stage charging, as covered above under alternators, have become the standard. This overcomes the tendency of the older and poorly regulated “constant voltage” chargers or ferro-resonant chargers to overcharge the batteries if left on for long periods. The newer chargers recharge discharged house batteries much more quickly while optimizing battery life. <br />
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A 20 Amp charger is adequate for use with a four T105 or two D4 house battery bank and a separate starting battery. Since each of the multiple outputs is regulated independently, the charger adjusts for differences in charging current required by the two batteries. It will charge both batteries even with the battery switches off. <br />
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Light, compact “switch mode” chargers are available from Xantrex (Truecharge) at reasonable prices. A convenient location for the battery charger on a C34 is on the forward bulkhead of the port cockpit locker (yes, you can get in there if you clear everything out). An additional advantage of these chargers is that they do not have the hum or buzz typical of the older units. Xantrex offers a remote indication panel which may be mounted near the C34 electrical panel. <br />
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==Wiring Revisions ==<br />
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The schematic diagram shows a wiring scheme for combining the above upgrades with the existing wiring in an older Catalina 34. The four six volt golf cart batteries are shown wired in series-parallel to provide 12 volts. In later boats, the two original equipment D4 batteries may be connected in parallel for the house battery in lieu of the four golf cart batteries shown. Fuses are shown in the battery and charging leads as is now required by the ABYC code. <br />
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Both the lead to the switch and the lead to the alternator must be independently fused as shown. The shore power battery charger leads must be fused as well but these fuses will generally be 30 Amps maximum so automotive style fuses and in-line fuse-holders may be used. Fuses should be located within the battery box and with the batteries located to stb, there is space on the port side of the battery box for the large fuses. A reasonably priced line of high-amperage fuses is the Blue Seas series #5000 Mega Fuses (#5001 fuse holder). <br />
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<br>Click to enlarge and/or download [[media:CatalinaElectricalschematic.pdf|PDF version]]<br />
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Though not shown on the wiring diagram, bus bar terminals such as Blue Seas #2106 250 Amp “Maxi Bus” may be used to combine the several leads shown connected to the battery terminals. This is also necessary if you have more than one lead going to the battery negative and are using a Link 10 or similar battery monitor which requires a shunt for current measurement and a single lead to the negative post. <br />
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Only one of the existing #4 red leads from the battery box to the switch is needed. This is connected from the positive lead of the battery to position #1 of the existing switch. The other lead may be removed, left in as a spare for an inverter, or connected in parallel with the other lead to reduce voltage drop. The existing #4 black ground lead from the battery negative to the engine is used. While the voltage drop in the original #4 battery leads was excessive for routine engine starting, it is adequate for all house loads and occasional engine starting due to the increased house battery capacity and lower internal resistance. <br />
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Ancor brand cables with swaged terminals for jumpers between the six volt batteries are available from many marine stores or cables may be made up as required if you have a proper sized crimper to handle #4 wire and terminals. A new #6 red wire must be run from the battery box to the alternator for charging from the alternator. This is the only new wire from the engine area to the battery box that needs to be run, assuming the shore power charger wiring is already in place. <br />
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Most Catalinas used a plastic conduit for the wires from the engine to the battery box and it may be possible to get this wire in the existing conduit. If not, it should be protected with a flexible plastic 1/2" or 3/4" conduit available in the electrical department of Home Depot or similar store. The existing red #4 lead from the starter solenoid to the battery switch is used, but is removed from the common terminal of the switch and connected to position #2 of the switch. Since the starting battery is also connected to the starter solenoid, this wire effectively goes to the starting battery as well and is used both for charging and emergency starting from the house battery bank.<br />
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With the revised wiring, position #1 of the battery switch is for normal operation. The switch should be left in this position at all times unless you want to isolate the house battery when the boat is unattended or for emergencies. If the switch is placed in the “Both” position, the starting and house batteries are paralleled or, if the starting battery switch is off, the house battery alone will be connected for engine starting. If the house battery is ever completely discharged, the starting battery may be used in an emergency for lighting, radio, etc. by placing the switch in the #2 position. In this case, the house battery is totally isolated. Obviously, the switch should never be placed in the “Both” or #2 positions except in emergencies as either could result in house loads inadvertently depleting the starting battery. The starting battery is connected directly to the starter solenoid terminal as it is in an automobile. <br />
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A fuse and a battery switch are shown in this circuit to protect the wiring and to isolate the battery if desired. The same type fuse as used for the house battery should be located near the battery. The switch should also be located near the battery to minimize the wire run to the starter solenoid. Blue Seas #9006, BEP #700-701 or Hella #87181 switches will handle the starting current, are small and reasonably priced. The starting battery ground cable can be attached to any convenient bolt on the engine block. <br />
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If a side terminal automotive battery is selected, good quality standard side terminal automotive battery cables with swaged terminals can be used. Belden brand battery cables are excellent quality and carried by all NAPA stores in various lengths with factory swaged terminals. Ancor brand cables with swaged ring terminals in several lengths are available from West Marine and other marine stores for runs from a marine starting battery with eye terminals and/or runs from fuse block to switch and switch to starter solenoid. These should be used for all the #2 and #4 jumper leads for both batteries if you don’t have access to a large crimper to make up the cables yourself. <br />
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As crimped or swaged terminals for #2, #4 and #6 wire are un-insulated, all of these terminals should be sleeved with Ancor brand shrink tubing coated internally with adhesive. This will provide maximum corrosion resistance and battery acid “wicking” up the copper conductors inside the vinyl insulation. <br />
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The charging circuits for the shore power charger should be connected independently to both batteries as shown. Shore power chargers with multiple battery outputs provide the required isolation between batteries and independent regulation for each battery. Leads from the positive terminals of the charger to the positive terminals of the batteries should be protected with fuses near the battery in the same manner as the positive power leads. Fuses should be rated at 150% of the charger capacity. <br />
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Loads which are “always on,” such as bilge pumps, etc., as well as alternate charging systems, should be connected directly to the house battery. These may be connected either to the #1 terminal of the battery switch or directly to the positive battery terminal and each must be protected with a fuse or circuit breaker rated at 150% of the current rating of the device. If connected directly to the battery, it may be necessary to use a bus bar terminal (as indicated above for the negative battery terminal) to avoid an excessive buildup of connections on the positive battery post. <br />
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==Glow plug solenoid==<br />
Though technically not a part of the overall dc power system upgrade, the schematic shows a solenoid relay for operating the engine glow plugs. If your boat is wired to operate the glow plugs directly from the ignition switch or push-button and is not already equipped with a solenoid relay in this circuit, it would be desirable to include this modification in the general electrical power upgrade. The voltage drop in the wiring harness and glow plug switch or pushbutton as provided on earlier boats significantly reduces glow plug effectivity and can cause hard starting, particularly when it’s cold. <br />
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A suitable solenoid relay, Cole Hersee #24106-BP, is available from West Marine. Install it at the rear of the engine, making sure at least one of the mounting flanges is grounded to the engine. Disconnect the wire coming from the Universal harness to the rear glow plug. Connect this to the small terminal on the solenoid relay. Connect a fused #10 lead from the starter solenoid to either large terminal of the solenoid relay and another #10 lead from the other large terminal to the rear glow plug. <br />
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Where it typically took 20-50 seconds previously to preheat the glow plugs with a cold engine, it should take only 8-12 seconds to preheat them after the conversion. Current Westerbeke-Universal diesel engines come equipped with this type of solenoid relay. This improvement is well described on the C34 Web site Projects page at [[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical/glowplugs glow plugs]].<br />
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'''CHANGES TO JIM MOE'S WIRING DIAGRAM - ECHO CHARGERS and WIRING CHANGES TO KEEP THE 1-2-B SWITCH'''<br />
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(from a MB topic discussion) In Reply #11, Item 3, on this topic, I mentioned that Jim Moe had CHANGED his echo charger connections FROM the 1-2-B switch connections TO the bank (+) posts. <br />
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This is a VERY IMPORTANT modification. <br />
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SEE UPDATED WIRING DIAGRAM<br />
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Click this link to download the high res version [[media:UPDATED_CatalinaElectricSystem.jpg]]<br />
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In a discussion recently on co.com (see: [http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=107109]) we discussed this very issue. It is an operational, not electrical design issue. This is a copy of the pertinent ideas from that full thread. <br />
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Bob wrote: "It looks to me that if that switch [reserve bank on/off switch] was off the echo charger wouldn't be doing it's job."<br />
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I replied: As Jim's wiring diagram is set up, you are completely correct. I spoke with Jim since he published this in 2004, and he noted that based on my suggestion he has moved the echo charger from as shown to the battery (+) posts as recommended by the echo charger manufacturer.<br />
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The following is very IMPORTANT to understand: Since his operating concept is to turn the reserve bank switch ON when he gets on the boat and he doesn't leave it plugged in when he's away, what you point out, quite correctly, is not an issue for him if wired this way. Again, you're right: if the reserve bank switch was OFF, and wired this way, the echo charger would NOT charge the reserve bank. Period. If wired to the banks, it wouldn't matter and would always work.<br />
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The co.com link also explains how you can change Jim's wiring diagram with two switches to my "preferred" single 1-2-B switch design with just two simple wiring mods. And given this link, there are way more other designs out there, too.<br />
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Here's how: <br />
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Here's what you CAN DO - based on Jim's diagram ONLY to change from Jim's two switch design to Stu's single 1-2-B switch design:<br />
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1. Take the reserve on/off switch and throw it out (or just leave it ON)<br />
2. Conceptually: Run the reserve (+) DIRECTLY to the #2 post of the 1-2-B switch for power TO the switch and run a wire from the output "C" post of the switch to the starter solenoid<br />
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To do this you need to do two things:<br />
1) Take what's shown as the "Existing #4 red" between the starter & the #2 post and MOVE it FROM the "2" post TO the "C" post of the 1-2-B switch, and leave it on the starter. This gives you power TO the starter from either bank. It also lets you parallel the banks if your echo charger fails (backup, backup, backup...)<br />
2) Run a new wire from the (+) output of the reserve bank to the #2 post of the switch, without that pesky second on/off switch. Do not run ANYTHING from the reserve bank to the starter solenoid, go only directly to the switch. (The wiring sizes are your choice.)<br />
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You're done.<br />
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Bob, what this does is make the 1-2-B switch THE controller for the output to the starter from either of the 2 battery banks (and, of course, to the DP).<br />
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It also does exactly what I've been suggesting all along - uses the simple 1-2-B switch to control everything. It changes Jim's design to mine!!!<br />
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1. The 1-2-B switch is only used for battery bank selection and output to two things; the DP and the starter (the "always on" loads can be left as shown or run directly to the house bank or other switches and fuses - your choice)<br />
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2. The alternator output goes to the house bank [nowhere near the switch!!!] with a combiner, echo charger, etc. used to supply the reserve bank. Also see the discussion below about using the 1-2-B switch for that purpose.<br />
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Simple, eh?<br />
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The downside of "Stu's design" is that engine starting from the house bank can knock electronics off line. That's why some folks prefer having the reserve bank always start the engine.<br />
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Your boat, your choice.<br />
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For more thoughts on this, see: Alternator Output & Battery Switch Wiring: [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4934.0.html]<br />
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'''Option Summary:''' Either use Jim's two switch design or my preferred "Keep the 1-2-B Switch arrangement" which is:<br />
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1. continue to use the 1-2-B switch<br />
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2. AO direct to house bank<br />
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3. each bank output to 1-2-B switch<br />
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4. C post of switch to distribution panel and starter solenoid<br />
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5. either use an echo charger to charge the reserve bank or use the B position on the switch - simple <br />
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'''ABOUT CHANGING YOUR OEM ALTERNATOR'''<br />
<br />
You don't "HAVE TO" upgrade the alternator, because the acceptance of the battery bank will limit the current that can go into them. In most cases the original internal regulator with the stock alternator will provide enough amperage to keep your house bank between the 50% and 85% SOC quite well, albeit somewhat longer than a newer higher output alternator would. Smaller alternator, less charging, longer charging time. If, however, you're a weekend warrior, it'll make little difference. In all cases, though, there is a steadily diminishing law of input power from an alternator alone on a house bank, which is why, unless you have alternate charging sources like solar or wind, you will need to plug into shorepower at least weekly to bring your house bank up to full. Written up in most reliable electrical source books, like Calder.</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing&diff=4664Stuffing box packing2013-06-26T17:50:08Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
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<div><div style="padding: 10px; background: aqua; border: 1px solid #FFAA99; font-family: Ariel, sans-serif"><br />
<big>'''How do I install the STUFF in the stuffing box? What is a stuffing box anyway? There are several different types of packing. What kind should I use and what are the differences between them? There are a range of different sizes of material from 1/8" to 5/8". What size do I use? How do I do this? Can I do it with the boat in the water, or do I need to haul her out?'''<br />
<br />
We ALWAYS get questions that ask: "Can I do it with the boat in the water? Will it sink my boat? Answer: NO your boat won't sink. You CAN and actually SHOULD do it in the water, 'cuz if you do it on the hard, you still have to readjust it once the boat gets in the water, since the water affects the flax. Why do it twice? <br />
<br />
Ultra X, discussed in Maine Sail's article, is very good stuff, new in 2012 or thereabouts.<br />
<br />
Read on...</big><br />
</div><br />
<br />
----<br />
The stuffing box is actually the large nut on your propeller shaft between the stern tube where the shaft goes out of the boat underneath the aft cabin berth, and your transmission at the aft end of your engine. The stuffing box performs two major functions: it keeps that nasty water we float on OUT of the boat, and it lubricates the shaft as it spins inside the stuffing box itself. <br />
<br />
Catalina's C34 manual that came with your boat has a very good illustration of the stuffing box. It is a section (engineering-speak: means a cutaway type drawing, like a slice right through the middle) showing the stern tube, the black hose, the shaft, the stuffing box gland assembly (the BIG nut forward) and the smaller Locking nut aft. See pages 39 and 40, drawing 4.4.2, Chapter 4.4.3, Auxiliary Power, Shaft Packing Gland (Stuffing Box). <br />
<br />
Maine Sail has a very good photographic review on his website: [http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box] or http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=125430<br />
<br />
Ralph Johnstone has also developed some good ideas: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=872589&highlight=need%20to%20leak<br />
<br />
For most C34s you'll need 3/16 inch flax material, although that flax size has been reported to be 1/4" flax for hull # 713 (a 1988 model with a standard 1" shaft). Better check your manual. If you don't have one, just measure the distance between the edge of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box after you have backed the stuffing box off. First loosen the locking nut (it will move aft), then loosen the stuffing box (it will move forward). If you're in the water, water will now make its appearance - don't worry, it's not much. There are five different types of "regular" packing material. "Regular" means the material that is inserted in your existing stuffing box, as compared to new equipment, like the PSS Shaft Seal, which requires removal of the existing stuffing box, and replacing it with a new piece of equipment. <br />
<br />
The five types of "regular" or traditional materials are (2000 prices): <br />
#Conventional flax @ $4.29 for a two foot length<br />
#PTFE flax @ $4.19<br />
#The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit<br />
#The Goretex GFO from e-marine <br />
# Ultra X new in 2012 or so<br />
<br />
The size of the square flax material required is based on the clearance between the outside of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box, where the flax goes in. Here's the differences between the flax material: both the conventional and Teflon impregnated flax need water for lubrication, hence the need to keep the stuffing box actually "dripping", one or two drops per minute when the shaft isn't turning, and four to five when it is moving. <br />
<br />
There's been lots of discussion over the years on just how much "dripping" is required, covered in many old Mainsheet articles for Catalina 34s and others (the older C27 and C30 tech tips are also good sources). For traditional flax (NOT "dripless") the amount of water dripping is easily adjusted based on how much you tighten the stuffing box nut before you use the locking nut on the stuffing box assembly. The stuffing box nut is the bigger one that is forward on the shaft, tightening it moves it aft. Check the C34 Website, under Mainsheet Article Index, and search for packing gland and stuffing box to find those articles. The August 1990 Catalina 27 tech tips has a good article on how to install the material. Ron Hill covered it very well in May 1992 and Feb 1993. The search will detect those issues of Mainsheet that discussed the packing gland, assuming you have access to the old Mainsheets. Now that the website is up with the Tech Notes Online from Mainsheet articles (for C34IA members), you can read all of the C34 articles. <br />
<br />
This next section describes the moldable packing process. If you are using traditional, Gore or Ultra X, please ignore this section although it does include how to get the old stuff out (this was originally written around 2000). <br />
<br />
The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit works like this: First, you still need regular flax in addition to the green dripless goop that is the heart of the dripless package. It makes sense to use the Teflon, rather than conventional flax in any event, since it's both cheaper and has more inherent lubrication in the material itself. Second, there are three "rings" of flax in the stuffing box. The outer two rings are still the traditional Teflon flax, while the inner ring of normal flax is replaced with the new dripless green goop. What you do is warm up the green goop in your hand and roll it or knead it out into a thin square strand that matches the 3/16 inch square size of the regular flax. You make a piece long enough to fit around the shaft's circumference. That's easy to do by using the portion of the one inch diameter shaft forward of the stuffing box, so you end up with a piece about two inches long that'll fit around the shaft, same as the other two pieces. The magic tool to get out the old flax is a # 6 or # 8 drywall screw about 2" long. It has a very sharp point. Just push it in by hand into the old flax and screw it in with a hand screw driver. When it bottoms out, grab the head of the screw with a pair of pliers and pull it out. <br />
<br />
After removing the old flax, you install the first ring of normal flax (the forward piece), then the ring of green goop dripless material in the middle ring, then the last (aft) ring of normal flax. The regular flax should be cut at 45 degree angles. See the C34 manual's description of how to cut the flax and stagger the joints. <br />
<br />
Instead of needing to have water dripping for lubrication of the flax, you can hand tighten up the stuffing box so it doesn't drip at all, but not too tight. The final adjustment part is trial and error, covered in one of Ron Hill's Mainsheet articles. The trick is to tighten the stuffing box until water stops, but don't tighten too much. Don't tighten and then back off. Always tighten up the locking nut to the stuffing box with a wrench. <br />
<br />
The advantage with the dripless stuffing material is you don't have to think about constantly checking the drips and keeping water out of the bilge anymore, except for checking the box once in a while to make sure you didn't originally over tighten it (too much heat is the giveaway). The film can of stuff that comes with the kit is Syn-Tef lubrication which you should use anyway with any kind of flax stuffing. Install the Syn-Tef with Qtips. It's called "Dripless" because the middle ring of green goop provides the internal lubrication for the flax that the water used to provide. When you install the flax (of any kind) be sure to cut the edges at a 45 degree angle, not butted, and stagger the joints of all three rows so they do not line up. The manual shows this very clearly on the drawing. Clean the shaft with fine wet/dry sandpaper and then lightly oil it prior to tightening the packing gland. At first tighten the packing gland big nut by hand only, and be sure to tighten up the locking nut to the gland with a wrench. This locking nut keeps the gland itself from loosening. If you've used dripless packing, it should NOT drip, either at rest or with the shaft turning with the gears engaged. A tight locking nut is critical for being seaworthy. <br />
<br />
The cost of the dripless seems high at $50 instead of $4.19 plus tax, because you only use a little bit of the whole package. You could either look at it as a good long term investment that'll last 20 years (!), or share it with a dockmate or two (since the material isn't size specific like the size specific 3/16 inch traditional flax, because you knead it by hand, it'll work for anybody with a stuffing box) and reduce your investment by asking them to chip in. The natural progression seems to be from traditional (either conventional OR Teflon) stuffing material in the stuffing box, to adding the dripless green goop in the center of the three rings, and then it seems that the gang moves on to the PSS mechanical seal, which is $200. Regarding the PSS replacement solution, Ron Hill recently wrote: "There are a number of solutions out there. With a 1" shaft most of the "bellows" units like PSS will fit. You might also consider "drip free packing" which I wrote up in the May 1992 Mainsheet . I've used it since the spring of 1991 and still have it installed today (with a dry bilge). I saw it's still available at West Marine. <br />
<br />
[Added Oct. 2009 by Stu] The e-marine Goretex GFO packing is a popular alternative to the green goop. It was invented well after I originally wrote this material.<br />
<br />
[Added June 2012 by Stu] I've switched to Ultra X, I ran out of the green goop, 13 years, not too bad!!!:)<br />
<br />
Any advantage of the packing over the bellows unit? If the bellows were to break - for whatever the reason - you have a real EMERGENCY and had better find a travel lift fast. If the normal flax/dripless packing leaks all you need to do is stuff more flax /dripless packing or even stuff pieces of shoe lace/rag in the packing gland to temporally stop the leak." The swap from traditional flax to dripless can be done with the boat in the water, gets a little water in the bilge and is great fun to work around. If you're unsure about this, do it when it's out. Have the new rings cut and ready to go in if you are in the water. Actually the hardest part is getting the old packing out. Ron made a special tool, but he got it out easily and stuffed the new material in with a blunted pencil I think. I used a wire coat hanger to get the old material out. The drywall screw idea seems the best, and I've used it and a small flat screwdriver, too. The flax pullers sold in stores DO NOT work because they are too big for the opening on our boats, so don't bother buying one. Also, you'll probably notice green crud on the outside of the stuffing box. That's the equivalent of rust on the bronze material. Recently learned from an article somewhere that anhydrous lanolin will work to keep it clean, so once you clean off the "rust" apply some lanolin and it should keep the box and locking nut clean as a baby's bottom.<br />
<br />
Orig: 1999; Edited 2009</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=4663Diesel Engine2013-06-20T18:06:28Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== General ==<br />
<br />
[RESOURCES - good M25 engine information,from a C36 owner http://realitycheck.me/resources.htm] <br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Ron Hill's May 2002 Mainsheet article on Rebuilding an Oberdorfer water pump)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
* Exhaust Hose Replacement with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.0.html<br />
* Rebuilding an OBERDORFER Raw Water Pump with Flix http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html<br />
* HEAT EXCHANGER SOURCES and Replacement Bracket and Exchanger with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6920.0.html<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners by Stu Jackson'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
Engine Harness Upgrade from Maine Sail http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade and http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
Kubota Filter Equivalents http://www.orangetractortalks.com/2008/12/gray-market-kubota-oil-filter-part-numbers/<br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/manuals/ZF_Hurth_Repair_manual.pdf Transmissions:Hurth Repair Manual PDF file]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
KUBOTA equivalent parts http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,978.0.html<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]<br />
Westerbeke/Universal now has the owner manuals online. You can download them at http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/OnlineManuals.aspx</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Catalina_34&diff=4662Catalina 342013-06-20T00:37:08Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>The ''Catalina 34'' is great boat not only to sail but to own. Here's how it has [[Evolution of the Catalina 34|evolved over the years]] through several models. <br />
<br><br />
* See the archived original FAQ and Projects pages right down below<br />
* [[History]]<br />
<br />
IMPORTANT: Please note that the wiki does not have all topics cross referenced to the daily Main Message Board. The MB has been going since 2001 or so and has a variety of technical information not "migrated" to the wiki. There are many innovative ideas, photographs and discussions of technical importance on the MB. It has a very good search engine and a suggestion on its use is here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3880.0.html<br />
<br />
*Anyone may read the topics. If you wish to add content to the wiki you must log in. Use the same user name and password that you use to access the forum.<br><br><br />
<br />
== Topics ==<br />
<br />
* [[Maintenence tips from a new owner]]<br />
* [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7323.0.html Buying Tips for an Older C34 - 1986 ]<br />
* [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6437.0.html "101" Series of Tips & Tricks ]<br />
* [RESOURCES - good M25 engine information,from a C36 owner http://realitycheck.me/resources.htm]<br />
* [[Anchoring & Docking]]<br />
* [[Cockpit]] <br />
* [[Critical Upgrades|<font color="red">CRITICAL UPGRADES</font>]]<br />
* [[Dinghies and Tenders]]<br />
* [[Electrical]]<br />
* [[Electronics]]<br />
* [[Diesel Engine| Engine]]<br />
* [[Fuel]]<br />
* [[Galley]]<br />
* [[Head]]<br />
* [[Hull]]<br />
* [[Interior]]<br />
* [[Leaks]]<br />
* [[Maintenance]]<br />
* [[Manuals]]<br />
* [[Miscellaneous]]<br />
* [[Paints & Finishes]]<br />
* [[Performance and Motoring]]<br />
* [[Plumbing]]<br />
* [[Port Lights & Hatches]]<br />
* [[Prop-shaft]]<br />
* [[Refrigeration]]<br />
* [[Rigging and Sails]]<br />
* [[Rudder| Rudder & Steering]]<br />
* [[Safety ]]<br />
* [[Storage]]<br />
* [[Stuffing box]]<br />
* [[Ventilation]]<br />
* [[Woodwork-teak]]<br />
<br />
== Another View ==<br />
<br />
<ul><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="background:white;"<br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Engine to Propeller]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Engine, Transmission, Stuffing Box, Shaft & Prop</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Rigging and Sails|Rigging]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Sails, Spars, Standing & Running Rigging</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Hull & Rudder]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Rudder Post, Helm, Keel Bolts, Updates</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Electrical]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Wiring, Batteries, Chargers, Shore Power, Generators</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Electronics]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>GPS, Chartplotters, Instruments, Autopilots</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Cockpit|On Deck]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Cockpit Tables, Swim Ladder, Dodger & Bimini </small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Cabin]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Storage, Ventilation, Woodwork, Cushions, Lighting</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Galley]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Fridge, Stove, Sink and activities in the Galley</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Head]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Head, Shower, Holding Tank, Related Systems</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Plumbing]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Hot Water, Water Tanks, Hoses, Thru hulls</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Port Lights & Hatches]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Replacing & Repairing</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Maintenance]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Leaks, Paints & Finishes, Cleaning, Teak</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Anchoring & Docking]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Gear & Techniques</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Performance|Sailing & Motoring]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Operation, c34 Specs/Performance</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Dinghy]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Stowing, Towing & Operating</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Safety]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>PDF, Harness, Jack Lines</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Misc]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>One of Kind Items</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq.html FAQs]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Archived C34 Faq page</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[http://www.c34.org/projects/projects.html Projects]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Archived C34 Projects page</small><br />
|}<br />
<br />
== By Boat/Author ==<br />
''Are you a "projects" person? Or is your boat one? Then add a "master index" page to all your projects.''<br />
''We do not require any specific minimum but would prefer at least 4 or 5 on your list.''<br><br />
''Thanks, your friendly Project's webmaster.''<br />
<br />
* [[Apache]]<br />
* [[Aquavite]]<br />
* [[BlackDragon]]<br />
* [[Espresso]]<br />
* [[Kindred Spirit]]<br />
* [[Luna Loca]]<br />
* [[Quiet Island]]<br />
* [[Weal Sea]]<br />
* [[Yorkshire Rose]]<br />
<br />
== How to add content ==<br />
<br />
[[Plain language "How to Wiki" guide]]<br />
<br />
====Templates====<br />
*[[Template double column text and pix project|Double-column text/picture template]]<br />
*[[Template messageboard query|Message Board thread compilation template]]<br />
*[[Template_simple_text_and_integrated_picture|Simple integrated text and picture project]]<br />
<br />
====Formatting help====<br />
Need some help [[Help:Contents|getting started]]<br /><br />
*[http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting Formatting guide]<br><br />
*[http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Links Linking guide]<br><br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_User_Page_Help/Do-It-Yourself/Formatting_Text#Hidden_Comment Wikipedia page design]<br />
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Or consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software.<br />
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== Important Notice ==<br />
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Please read our site [[Notice]]<br />
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<small>[[Test homepage]]</small></div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Head&diff=4661Head2013-06-12T17:37:10Z<p>Stu jackson: /* Head Improvements */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Head Improvements==<br />
*[[Fresh Water Head and Overflow Control]]<br><br />
*[[Head Hanger Hooks|Hanger Hooks]]<br><br />
*[[Head Repair]]: ''Be the first to contribute to this topic!<br>''<br />
*[[Head Shelf Modification |Head Shelf]]<br/><br />
*[[Smelly Head Solutions]]<br><br />
*[[Replace your broken pump with a Raritan Replacement]]<br />
* PHII Installation http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3797.0.html<br />
<br />
== Holding Tank ==<br />
*[[Holding Tank Vent Filter]]<br><br />
*[[Macerator]]: ''Be the first to contribute to this topic!<br>''<br />
*[[Holding Tank Smells]]: ''Be the first to contribute to this topic!<br>''<br />
<br />
== Misc ==<br />
*[[Head faucet]]<br><br />
*[[Raising the height of the head]]<br><br />
*[[Marine Sanitation Fact and Fiction]]<br />
<br />
==Items of Interest==<br />
There are over a dozen [http://c34.org/tech-notes-index/index.htm Tech Notes] on this subject.<br></div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Fresh_Water_Head_and_Overflow_Control&diff=4660Fresh Water Head and Overflow Control2013-06-09T03:22:42Z<p>Stu jackson: noted bad idea</p>
<hr />
<div>'''by R. Norquist'''<br />
<br />
----<br />
I got a little tired of the Head Overflowing when someone forgot to leave the handle down. I decided to convert the smaller starboard Fresh Water Tank to a dedicated fresh water supply for the head. The starboard water tank is about the same size as the holding tank. This is great because you reduce the risk of overfilling the waste tank. I added a 1/2" Tee off the inlet sea cock and put a 1/2" ball valve and a one way check valve on the fresh water inlet side of the Tee. Then disconnected the stabbed fresh water tank from the fresh water supply system and ran a direct line from the water tank to the Tee. Then connected to the head inlet line to the other side of the Tee. <br />
<br />
'''End result and benefits:''' <br />
<br />
# I don't need to use the inlet sea cock. It stays shut. I only need to open the ball valve to the fresh water tank. <br />
# The head never overflows. The top of the head is is just a little higher than the top of the water tank. <br />
# The head odor disappeared or at least is better. You don't have all those sea water microbes dying and causing additional odor. <br />
# We only use the large stern water tank for drinkable water. We use it more and this keep things fresher.<br />
<br />
<br />
THIS IS NOT A GOOD IDEA. Here's why: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7564.0.html [Stu - 6/8/2013]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22&diff=4659M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit "B/M 256891"2013-04-26T16:42:47Z<p>Stu jackson: added bracket arm source</p>
<hr />
<div>{|<br />
|If for some reason you haven't changed to the new alternator bracket on your older (1986, early 1987) M25 21 hp Universal diesel engines, DO SO IMMEDIATELY.<br />
<br />
I learned the hard way yesterday. I'd bought the retrofit kit from Universal a year ago, and was going to do it "soon." I'd just motored over to a friend's dock for a visit, less than 5 minutes away from our slip. When my friend used the head, he came back and said, "Houston, we have a problem!" He'd noticed oil dripping from the underside of the alternator access door onto the head sole. When we took off the stairs to expose the engine, the old "over the top" alternator bracket had sheared, the alternator was lying back to port dangling from the old fan belt, and there was oil everywhere. As it disintegrated the bracket and alternator had clobbered the oil filter, which spouted oil onto the fan belt and blew it all over the engine compartment. It also nicked the fresh water cooling hose. The oil filter kept the alternator from slamming into the casing of the engine.<br />
I got out the new bracket kit, and with generous help from two friends, I removed the old parts, and fitted in the new "underneath" bracket in about three hours. <br />
<br />
Most of the time was spent adjusting the hose clamps on the new fresh water line which goes under the new bracket, since there is only a very small amount of clearance between it and the top of the oil filter. I also had to use a rubber bicycle tube with a hose clamp as a patch over the dinged fresh water hose, which, of course, was within a half inch of the end of the hose on the new copper elbow. Also, we had to drop the alternator again to move the alternator ground wire further back to one of the other studs since the wire was in the way when it was replaced on its old stud.<br />
<br />
October 2011 - From E. Herlihy an O'Day 35 owner: Last November (2010) I installed the upgraded Alternator mounting bracket, with the kit available through Torrensen Marine, and while I was at it I installed a new Leece-Nevile / Prestolite 90 amp alternator on my Universal M25. If you are reading this far, you probably know that the new alternator uses EXACTLY the same housing as the old 55 amp Motorola. BTW the kit is now ~$180.00 When I opened the box containing the kit, I was happy to see that it included all the parts, including the Alternator mounting bolts. I did the installation using the new bolts, but noticed that they did not seem to fit perfectly. The SAE Grade 5 pivot bolt allowed "a little" play of the alternator, and the tension bolt never seemed to fit "right." At the time I assumed that the alternator was machined so that the bolt would jam, thus preventing the bolt from loosening. The real reason is embarrassing....<br />
<br />
I thought it strange that both of these bolts, and the nut were SAE.<br />
031555 - 5/16NC x 1<br />
031615 - 3/8NC x 3-1/2<br />
031762 - Nut 3/8-16 Hex Steel Zinc<br />
<br />
However, EVERY other fastener is Metric. I assumed that Torrensen would know and include the correct bolts, however the extra play was because the bolts did not fit... you know what happens when you ass-u-me... The Pivot bolt SHOULD BE a Metric M10 fastener. The tension bolt (connects the tension arm and the alternator) SHOULD BE a Metric M8 coarse thread. I realized this because I was getting a little belt dust on the engine. After only 50 hours this summer, I thought that was unusual, or I would need to buy a lot of belts. In October of this year (2011), I checked the alternator tension, and the "little" play seemed a "little" worse than it should have...<br />
<br />
Because by now I had stripped some of the threads with the bolt that was included with the kit, I purchased a slightly longer bolt, a nut, and lock washer to use as a tension bolt. I also replaced the pivot bolt with a slightly longer M10 Fine thread bolt. It fit perfectly (no play at all). I used 2 nuts and a spring washer to jam the pivot bolt, so that it will not vibrate loose. I can't speak to the kit available through Catalina Direct, but the Torrensen kit has the wrong bolts!<br />
<br />
Lesson 1: If the components in the "kit" don't seem right to you, they are not.<br />
Lesson 2: DO NOT USE THE ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BOLTS INCLUDED IN THE TORRENSEN KIT if they are SAE, and you have a Leece-Neville or Motorola Alternator. <br />
<br />
PICTURES of the different bolts are now on the C34 Forum, and include the bolts to use with pictures: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5127.0.html [8/8/2012]<br />
<br />
[03/24/2013 - Stu] - My adjusting bracket broke. Since a new one would have taken two weeks to obtain through the local Universal dealer or Torreson, I had one made locally, a tad thicker, too. I use 7400 3/8" belts on our 100A Blue Circle alternator (using the metric bolts). I found the alternator bottomed out the new bracket and I couldn't get tension. I tried a backup 7390 belt I had, too short. I went to NAPA and found they make a 7395 belt.<br />
<br />
[4/26/2013 - Stu] A source for new alternator bracket adjustment arms is here on the Forum: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7398.0.html<br />
<br />
==Lessons Learned:==<br />
<br />
# If you haven't, replace the older style bracket TODAY. It'll give NO NOTICE of failure: it will just GO! I was fortunate that I had all the spare parts including the bracket kit, spare oil filter, bicycle tire for water hose patch, extra hose clamps and all the tools. Also was very helpful to have assistance. Once you get your hands oily (with or without gloves) you need a lot of help getting things you need without trashing the cabin.<br />
# One of the tricky parts is installing the hose and its new clamp underneath to provide clearance for the alternator and making sure you position the hose clamp to permit access to the screw for future tightening and checking.<br />
# The existing studs on the fresh water reservoir were just fine. The retrofit kit comes with new studs, but I didn't have to replace them.<br />
# Put the new belt on before you pop the alternator into place with the new adjusting bracket. The kit comes with two new fan belts. They're shorter than the original ones.<br />
# It's a heck of a way to do an oil change AND replace the antifreeze!<br />
# The recent List contributions about plugging the hole between the bottom of the engine compartment and the bilge leave me inclined to recommend keeping the hole, rather than plugging it. While I've got a mess in the bilge to clean up, if the oil and antifreeze hadn't gone into the bilge, it would have filled up the engine pan and spilled over into the cabin, the head, and probably back into the area underneath the aft cabin - not as easy to clean as the contained mess in the bilge.<br />
# The Alternator belt tensioner flix are here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3667.0.html<br />
Stu Jackson, ''[[Aquavite]]'' #224, San Francisco<br />
|<br />
<gallery caption="Click on any picture to enlarge" widths="100px" heights="100px" perrow="2"><br />
image:altold-bracket.jpg|Old Bracket still in place<br />
image:oil-bilge.jpg|Bracket "Broke" and Out Came the Oil!<br />
image:altold-broken.jpg|Broken parts<br />
image:altnew-kit.jpg|M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit<br />
image:altnew-bracket2.jpg|Close-up of New Bracket<br />
image:altnew-bracket.jpg|New bracket Installed<br />
</gallery><br />
Pictures by Stu Jackson, ''Aquavite'' #224<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Message Board Q&A on the alternator bracket upgrade==<br />
====Identifying if your alternator mount needs replacement====<br />
In the recent copy of mainsheet mentioned upgrading the alternator bracket. I'm not sure mine was ever done, although it hasn't presented any problems yet. I ordered the past tech notes collection, and read the article on the bracket. Unfortunately, the copy quality of the pictures that show the old and new bracket are not good. I wondered if you had a better copy if you could send, or a description that would help me determine if I have the old or new? <br />
Dave, Confetti #287, White Lake (Lake Michigan)<br />
<br />
----<br />
Most of us who have read the last several issues of Mainsheet know that the alternator bracket on the Universal Model 25 diesel engine can fail, which can crack the valve cover, resulting in a loss of engine lubricating oil. The manufacturer changed the bracket during 1987, and the current C34 production incorporates the improved engine, although dealers still have some boats with the uncorrected engine. The correct bracket uses an adjustment arm below the alternator. Factory supplied engines will also have "Model 25 XP" affixed to the top of the coolant reservoir. The old arrangement, which is likely to fail in time, has the adjusting arm above the alternator. By the way, the manufacturer does not acknowledge this as a problem, and requires about $115 for the upgrade kit. (NOTE: I paid $95.00 for mine in 1998. It's worth every penny!) Herb Schneider, ''former C34IA Tech Editor''<br />
<br />
----<br />
Stu, Also read your message to Al on the saga of your bracket replacement. Let me give you a couple of thoughts. First the best chafe guard that I've found for around that metal tube that carries coolant above the oil filter is a piece of 1" ribbed black plastic hose (at any marine store -- el cheapo stuff). All you have to do is cut a piece the length that you need and then slice it lengthwise to slip it on where you want chafe guard.<br />
The shortest filter that I've found (which I also use) is a Kubota 70000-15241. See the May & Aug 96 issues of Mainsheet for more filter #'s and important discussion. As far as the oil filters the Kabota 70000-15241 was only 1/4" longer than the miniature Fram filters. What I didn't like about the miniature Fram filter was the diameter. It only seated on a small portion of the facing surface of the engine. I also question how much filter material was really in there because of the smaller diameter. Can't remember if it had a clogged filter bypass or not, but don't think it had an anti-drain back valve. Your engine -- your choice.<br />
<br />
Another thought. I changed my belt from a 3/8 #395 to a 7/16 #400 which is a "tad" larger & LONGER. If you have trouble and have the space toward the alternator door try a #405 length belt. <br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788<br />
<br />
==Belt tensioning==<br />
As far as belt tensioning - in the dark ages they use a mallet or pry bar. If you go to an auto parts store you can buy a "belt tensioning" tool. It's like a turnbuckle with a left & right thread at a whooping cost of $6-$8! Screw it out till you get the correct tension then tighten the alternator retaining nuts. Easy as pie. Then screw the tool off. Meant to put this in the Mainsheet as a tip.<br />
<br />
Don't overtension or you'll be buying a new internal water pump. To get better alternator spacing maybe a washer might help. I replaced all the bracket bolts with longer ones as the holes were threaded all the way thru. I also recommend that alternator upgrades be limited to 90 amp for side loading and spacing.<br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788 <br />
----<br />
Although my boat is newer and has a MP-25XP engine with the bracket below, I wore out two 7/16" wide Gates heavy duty belts on my new Balmar 100 alternator in less than 500 rpm. It was impossible for me to keep adequate tension on the belts. To adjust the tension one must loosen the alternator bracket and the alternator mounting bolt, pull the alternator back and tighten the alternator bolt while keeping tension on the alternator and then tighten the bracket. Having done this several times during a passage while burning hands and arms and having to shut down the engine. I figured there must be an easier way to add tension to the belt and keep it there. I added a turnbuckle between the alternator bolt and the support beam of the engine. The only thing I was afraid of is that by pushing the alternator out, one also pushes on the engine and one could mess up the engine alignment. I have not done this yet, but I really want to. What are your thoughts about this? What size turnbuckle did you use, and how did you mount it?<br />
Looking forward to seeing your response or anybody else.<br />
Leo Missler, ''Dutch Lion'' C34 #1183 (1992)<br />
----<br />
I did this on the advice of my mechanic who has lots of experience but obviously is not perfect. We did it upon packing up Puff prior to putting her on the hard for the summer (Florida), so I don't have lots of experience with the turnbuckle.<br />
However, I used a 3/8" turnbuckle a shorter one. Pressed a nut into the eye of one end and then a couple of big washers and then bolted all that to the port side of the alternator.<br />
Screwed in a eye bolt to the engine mount platform and repeated the process on that end. Also put another nut on so I could "lock" it in by running it up against the tube.<br />
Wasn't brain surgery and seems to be very solid. It is not on tight enough to change the alignment, I think. It could be a problem if the engine vibrates and the platform doesn't but we will see.<br />
It will be a year before I actually try it.<br />
Frank, ''Puff'' #691 <br />
<br />
----<br />
Just a thought about belt tension and the XP-25.<br />
If you are just having problems putting normal tension on the belt, then the turnbuckle solution would be ok especially if you relaxed the turnbuckle after tightening up the adjusting bolts on the alt. bracket. Flex mounts are supposed to do just that. I would think that sooner or later the tension of the turnbuckle would either pull things out of alignment or transfer noise and vibration into the engine bed. If you are trying to provide more than "normal" tension then please check out below and confirm this information for yourself.<br />
When I was researching putting a high output alternator on "Family Affair" a tech at Maryville Marine, the Universal representative said that they didn't recommend beyond the factory belt tension settings because the front bearing and seal will not put up with a lot of side stress. It seems that the front crank pulley is pretty far in front of the actual front bearing on the block. Belt tension therefore has a lot of mechanical advantage. Much more so than if the crank bearing was right behind the pulley. That front housing is aluminum and full of timing gears. The crank bearing is way back (aft) behind them. Their suggested solution was to add an additional pulley (making 2 belts) on any alternator 100amp or above. They then say you can pull about 5hp off of the stock front pulley. They have the kits available on special order.<br />
Ken Dickson, ''Family Affair'' C34 #876</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=4658Diesel Engine2013-04-05T20:59:23Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Ron Hill's May 2002 Mainsheet article on Rebuilding an Oberdorfer water pump)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
* Exhaust Hose Replacement with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.0.html<br />
* Rebuilding an OBERDORFER Raw Water Pump with Flix http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html<br />
* HEAT EXCHANGER SOURCES and Replacement Bracket and Exchanger with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6920.0.html<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners by Stu Jackson'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
Engine Harness Upgrade from Maine Sail http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade and http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
Kubota Filter Equivalents http://www.orangetractortalks.com/2008/12/gray-market-kubota-oil-filter-part-numbers/<br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/manuals/ZF_Hurth_Repair_manual.pdf Transmissions:Hurth Repair Manual PDF file]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
KUBOTA equivalent parts http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,978.0.html<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]<br />
Westerbeke/Universal now has the owner manuals online. You can download them at http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/OnlineManuals.aspx</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Catalina_34_Electrical_System_Upgrade&diff=4657Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade2013-03-24T23:40:12Z<p>Stu jackson: belt size update</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jim Moe ''[[Windseeker]]'''''<br />
<br />
[Now includes changes to the Echo Charger wiring that moved from the switch to the individual banks (Stu October 2009)]<br />
NEW wiring diagram by Walt Tunnessen March 2010 <br />
VERY IMPORTANT MODIFICATION discussed here on the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6225.0.html<br />
<br />
If you use an ECHO CHARGER, please be aware of important wiring information that is NOT included in the installation manual, thanks to Maine Sail: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/electrical-systems/72295-xantrex-echo-charger-rant.html<br />
<br />
Please Note that this upgrade can also be accomplished while keeping the single 1-2-B switch with a minor change in wiring. Please see the text at the end of this article. The advantage of keeping the 1-2-B switch is that you can use the "B" position of the switch to parallel the batteries for charging and save money by not having to buy an echo charger, duo charger or combiner. Yes, it's a manual operation, but so is starting your engine!!!! And, since the AO goes directly to the house bank, you can even turn the 1-2-B switch OFF with the engine running and not have any problems. Stu, April 2010<br />
<br />
You MUST remove the short wire between the alternator and the starter when you make this upgrade to make the 1-2-B switch a "use" switch instead of a "charge" switch. There is a lot of information in the Electrical 101 Topic on the Message Board, see the "101 Topics" sticky.<br />
<br />
Bernd of Karista in Florida has provided ANOTHER source for replacement alternators. See the Message Board here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5686.0.html [Stu June 2010] It also notes that the B2 shorepower connection is NOT required with the echo charger.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
The stock Catalina 34 dc power system in earlier boats was designed for minimal house loads and definitely not for extended cruising. Consequently, two similar deep cycle batteries were provided (typically Group 24 or 27) for both house loads and engine starting. This arrangement resulted in several issues for today’s typical loads of refrigeration, lighting, instrumentation, appliances and 115 Volt inverters. Additionally, really only one of the two batteries could safely be used for house loads since the second one always should be reserved for engine starting. This is a common arrangement and typical of many stock sailboats even today. <br />
<br />
The stock alternators on most earlier Catalinas are 55 Amp units with internal automotive type regulators. These are designed to replace energy used in starting, support electrical loads while the engine is running and maintain or “float” the battery. They are not designed to, nor will they efficiently, recharge a large, discharged deep cycle battery. Thus even running the engine while cruising or at anchor will not recharge a discharged house battery in any reasonable length of time nor will it provide the electrical energy typically required for extended cruising. <br />
<br />
With the original wiring, the battery switch had to be placed on “Both” or a battery isolator installed to charge both batteries with the alternator. Using the battery switch in this manner at times resulted in forgetting it in the “Both” position when the engine was shut down, thus discharging both batteries and having a dead engine. A battery isolator intended to correct this inserted a voltage drop of around 0.7 Volts between the alternator and each battery which effectively prevented the alternator from recharging depleted batteries to more than 60-70% of capacity regardless of how long the charging continued.. <br />
<br />
The battery cables provided in these boats are very long due to the battery location relative to the battery switch and engine. This, and the small wire size (#4), significantly reduced the current available to the starter. If the battery was partially discharged, particularly in very hot or very cold weather, there often was inadequate current to start the engine. <br />
<br />
==The solution ==<br />
The solution to these problems requires several upgrades as follows:<br />
<br />
#Replacing the existing pair of similar batteries with a large house load battery bank and an isolated, smaller dedicated engine starting battery. <br />
#Replacing the alternator with a higher current equivalent along with a “smart” regulator designed to more rapidly recharge a discharged house battery. <br />
#Installing an Echo Charge unit or Battery Combiner to automatically charge both house and engine starting batteries from the alternator without incurring the voltage drop of a battery isolator and to avoid requiring the 1-2-BOTH switch to select which bank to charge. <br />
#Installing a “smart” three-stage shore power charger to rapidly recharge a discharged house battery and eliminate overcharging either battery if the charger is left on for extended periods. <br />
#Revising the DC power wiring to accomplish the above requirements and conform to current ABYC codes. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Battery Replacement==<br />
<br />
Fortunately, four deep discharge six volt golf cart batteries will just fit in the existing battery box for Mk I boats. These offer the specific characteristics required on a cruising boat, namely to supply house load power for one to three days between charges, repeatedly, over a long life span. Because they are used in large numbers for golf carts, the price is reasonable. However, they should be purchased from a local battery jobber to avoid the traditionally high marine markups and “hazardous material” shipping costs. Check the Internet for more details, availability and dealers. <br />
<br />
These six volt batteries must be connected in series-parallel to supply 12 Volts at the capacity required. Trojan brand Model T105 batteries are high quality and readily available in most locations and have become something of an industry leader in capacity, quality and life. They are rated at 225 Amp hours each so the four in a series-parallel arrangement will provide a nominal 12 Volts with 450 Amp hours compared to the 105 Amp hours of the original Group 24 battery. <br />
<br />
For later model boats originally equipped with two 4-D batteries, these can be connected in parallel providing only a slightly lower capacity house battery than the four golf cart batteries noted above. If you have a fairly new boat or new batteries, this may be the way to go. <br />
<br />
A note is necessary here regarding connecting any high-capacity lead-acid batteries in parallel. It must only be done using batteries of the same type (flooded, gel-cell or AGM). Further, batteries must have the same manufacturer, be the same model and of be essentially the same age and condition. If one battery fails internally, causing a short circuit, and the other is relatively new and fully charged, a high circulating current can occur between the two resulting in acid expulsion and overheating. If both are charged and discharged together as a pair from new, they will age similarly and avoid this problem. Thus paralleling batteries for higher capacity can be done without concern if these conditions are met. <br />
<br />
If installing the four golf cart batteries, a plywood base should be made for the existing battery box using ½" marine plywood to provide a solid base for the batteries. When installing them, two should be placed in the battery box and pushed to the stb side of the boat. Then there is space for the other two. Hold-down braces can be made using 1½" x 1½" hardwood. These should be cut so that they fit on top of the batteries and extend under the fiberglass flanges of the settee base. They can be secured with bolts extending through the fiberglass flanges and the hardwood bracing to apply downward force on the tops of the batteries. Be sure to allow access to the filler caps. Paint both base and hold-downs with at least two coats to resist any spilled battery acid. Alternative installation methods have been covered in an earlier Mainsheet Tech Note section. <br />
<br />
There is an additional hidden benefit here. Fortunately, the additional weight of the four batteries helps to offset the congenital port list present in all C34s. <br />
<br />
==Starting battery==<br />
<br />
A standard automotive or marine starting battery can be used for engine starting, but not a deep-discharge type. Starting batteries are designed to provide high starting current intermittently but will tolerate few deep-discharge cycles. A General Motors type side terminal starting battery is lower in height, fits in tight places and has protected terminals. Since the Universal diesel is small compared to automotive engines, the smallest size battery you can get will be adequate.<br />
<br />
A good location is under the aft cabin bed under the forward removable cover since this allows short cable runs and is away from the heat of the engine. However, it could be mounted in other locations as well. If the total cable run (total of positive and negative wires) exceeds 15' it would be best to use #1 cable rather than the #2 shown on the schematic. <br />
<br />
Cut a plywood base for the battery and shape two wedges to conform to the hull of the boat to support it. Use fiberglass and resin (West System epoxy is best) to tab the wedges to the hull. Again, paint both the wedges (after they are glassed in) and the base to resist acid. Automotive batteries now generally use bottom clamps for hold-downs and these can be fashioned using wood cleats to engage the flanges provided on the battery. <br />
<br />
==Alternator & Regulator ==<br />
<br />
All internally regulated automotive and marine alternators have only a “float” battery charging capability. This is accomplished by regulating the alternator output to 13.6-13.9 Volts (depending on temperature). By regulating the voltage to this level, even when charging a deeply discharged deep-cycle battery, the regulator cuts back significantly on the charging current within a few minutes of starting the engine as the battery voltage recovers to this voltage level. The regulator is designed to replace the small amount of energy used for starting and support loads while the engine is running as it is in an automobile. It is not designed to periodically recharge a discharged battery rapidly since this almost never occurs. <br />
<br />
For use on a cruising sailboat the alternator must rapidly recharge the house battery. For this it must be configured for an external, processor based three-stage “smart” regulator. The external regulator plugs into the alternator with the two-contact plug supplied with the regulator. These regulators provide a “bulk” charge for rapid recovery of the battery at a high alternator voltage of 14.1-14.3 Volts which maintains the charging current at 30-80 Amps depending upon battery condition. This continues until the battery has recovered to 75-80% capacity. They then cut back to a slightly lower voltage which results in an “acceptance” charging rate of 10-15 Amps, and then to a “float” voltage of 13.5-13.7 Volts which charges the battery at a low amperage rate when it has reached 90-95% capacity. These voltages are for flooded lead-acid batteries but are adjustable for other battery types (gel or AGM). <br />
<br />
Both Xantrex and Balmar make excellent three-stage regulators of this type for marine application. They are available from most marine equipment suppliers. It is essential to use a higher capacity alternator when using these three-stage regulators since there is no current limiting control in the system. Current is determined only by the voltage regulation of the regulator, internal resistance of the alternator and battery, and engine speed . Thus with a large, discharged house battery the charging current in the first “bulk” stage can easily be as high as 70-80 amps and the alternator must be able to handle this load. <br />
<br />
There are several high capacity alternators available from Balmar and several other suppliers which use external regulators and will fit the rather confined space in the C34 engine compartment. Because of this tight space and the single belt drive, it is necessary to limit the alternator size to 100 Amps maximum and use a “small case” alternator. The Universal engine requires a type 712-912 mount which is a single 2" long foot. If using a Balmar alternator, note that there is a clearance problem with either the stock Universal bracket arm or the one supplied by Balmar and the Balmar fan. This requires relieving the bracket arm with a file to clear the fan. <br />
<br />
A lower cost unit of this type is made by Blue Circle Auto Electric in Grand View, Wisconsin based on a Delco small case industrial engine alternator with this type mount and an external regulator. Their ordering reference for a 100 Amp unit which will replace the original Motorola unit on Universal diesel engines without any modifications is M-7102-HD. Price is $175.00 plus $11.55 S&H [as of May 2012 - Stu]. The Blue Circle phone is 888 932-2423. <br />
<br />
The alternator and water pump drive belt must be extremely heavy duty to withstand the torque of a high output alternator and a hardware store V-belt will last only hours. Get a high quality, heavy duty belt from an automotive store such as NAPA. A belt with notches on the inside is best as these provide better cooling for the belt. Alignment of the three belt pulleys is also critical with this high a belt load. This must be corrected if the pulleys are at all out of line, even if there were no problems with the stock Motorola alternator. Use a straightedge to check this after mounting the new alternator A #7390 or #7400 belt should fit. <br />
<br />
[03/24/2013] - My adjusting bracket broke. Since a new one would have taken two weeks to obtain through the local Universal dealer or Torreson, I had one made locally, a tad thicker, too. I use 7400 3/8" belts on our 100A Blue Circle alternator (using the metric bolts). I found the alternator bottomed out the new bracket and I couldn't get tension. I tried a backup 7390 belt I had, too short. I went to NAPA and found they make a 7395 belt.<br />
<br />
==Echo Charge or Combiner ==<br />
<br />
Manually or permanently connecting the alternator output to both the house battery and starting battery would defeat the purpose of isolating the starting battery. Use of a diode isolator, which was common practice some years ago, introduces a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery as indicated above. Since the regulator determines the state of charge of the battery by measuring the alternator voltage, this voltage drop (typically 0.7 volts) deceives the regulator and makes the battery charge level appear higher than it really is. Consequently, this will result in chronically undercharged batteries and is incompatible with any three-stage “smart” regulator. <br />
<br />
A Battery Combiner (also known by as a Pathmaker) senses the battery voltage and when it is being charged, operates a relay connecting the house battery and starting battery together. When the engine is shut down and the alternator is no longer charging, it opens the relay and isolates the batteries. This overcomes the shortcomings of the isolator. The alternator should always be connected to the house battery and the combiner connects the starting battery only when the alternator is charging. <br />
<br />
The Battery Combiner works fairly well in most applications. However, it will tend to overcharge the engine starting battery when using a high current (80 - 100 Amp) alternator and the house battery is discharged and recharged regularly, as it would be on a long cruise or at anchor with periodic engine charging. To avoid this, Xantrex developed an Echo Charge unit which uses a separate solid state regulator instead of a Combiner to charge the starting battery independently of the current and voltage being applied to the house battery. <br />
<br />
[Added by Stu 10/21/09] A few years after Jim wrote this article, he noted to me that he had MOVED the Echo Charger connections FROM the 1-2-B switch posts TO the banks themselves. The reason is a simple operational one, and is discussed in this Message Board thread, see Reply #31, [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4787.30.html]. The complete text of that change is included at the end of this article.<br />
<br />
This is desirable since the starting battery has only the short-time load of the glow plugs and starter while the house battery is routinely discharged for long periods with the engine shut down. Consequently, the charging requirements for the two batteries are totally different. The Xantrex Echo Charge unit typically limits the charging current for the starting battery to around 15 Amps maximum and cuts it back to near zero as that battery approaches full charge. This is done essentially independently of the state of charge or charging current for the house battery. <br />
<br />
Connecting the alternator directly to the house battery is a better arrangement than passing the charging circuit through a battery switch as was done in the stock Catalina wiring for several reasons. Besides the improved charging characteristics covered above, it avoids the problem of opening the charging circuit while charging heavily and damaging the alternator diodes. <br />
<br />
For further reading on high output alternators, “smart” regulators, Combiners, Echo Charge units and marine battery charging see West Marine’s “West Advisor®” write-ups in their catalog on these subjects. Also check www.amplepower.com and download their “Ample Power Primer.” <br />
<br />
==Shore Power Charger ==<br />
<br />
There has been a significant technological improvement in shore power chargers in recent years. Sophisticated voltage control and processor based three-stage charging, as covered above under alternators, have become the standard. This overcomes the tendency of the older and poorly regulated “constant voltage” chargers or ferro-resonant chargers to overcharge the batteries if left on for long periods. The newer chargers recharge discharged house batteries much more quickly while optimizing battery life. <br />
<br />
A 20 Amp charger is adequate for use with a four T105 or two D4 house battery bank and a separate starting battery. Since each of the multiple outputs is regulated independently, the charger adjusts for differences in charging current required by the two batteries. It will charge both batteries even with the battery switches off. <br />
<br />
Light, compact “switch mode” chargers are available from Xantrex (Truecharge) at reasonable prices. A convenient location for the battery charger on a C34 is on the forward bulkhead of the port cockpit locker (yes, you can get in there if you clear everything out). An additional advantage of these chargers is that they do not have the hum or buzz typical of the older units. Xantrex offers a remote indication panel which may be mounted near the C34 electrical panel. <br />
<br />
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|<br />
==Wiring Revisions ==<br />
<br />
The schematic diagram shows a wiring scheme for combining the above upgrades with the existing wiring in an older Catalina 34. The four six volt golf cart batteries are shown wired in series-parallel to provide 12 volts. In later boats, the two original equipment D4 batteries may be connected in parallel for the house battery in lieu of the four golf cart batteries shown. Fuses are shown in the battery and charging leads as is now required by the ABYC code. <br />
<br />
Both the lead to the switch and the lead to the alternator must be independently fused as shown. The shore power battery charger leads must be fused as well but these fuses will generally be 30 Amps maximum so automotive style fuses and in-line fuse-holders may be used. Fuses should be located within the battery box and with the batteries located to stb, there is space on the port side of the battery box for the large fuses. A reasonably priced line of high-amperage fuses is the Blue Seas series #5000 Mega Fuses (#5001 fuse holder). <br />
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[[image:catalinaElectricalschematic.jpg|border|350px]]<br />
<br>Click to enlarge and/or download [[media:CatalinaElectricalschematic.pdf|PDF version]]<br />
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<br />
Though not shown on the wiring diagram, bus bar terminals such as Blue Seas #2106 250 Amp “Maxi Bus” may be used to combine the several leads shown connected to the battery terminals. This is also necessary if you have more than one lead going to the battery negative and are using a Link 10 or similar battery monitor which requires a shunt for current measurement and a single lead to the negative post. <br />
<br />
Only one of the existing #4 red leads from the battery box to the switch is needed. This is connected from the positive lead of the battery to position #1 of the existing switch. The other lead may be removed, left in as a spare for an inverter, or connected in parallel with the other lead to reduce voltage drop. The existing #4 black ground lead from the battery negative to the engine is used. While the voltage drop in the original #4 battery leads was excessive for routine engine starting, it is adequate for all house loads and occasional engine starting due to the increased house battery capacity and lower internal resistance. <br />
<br />
Ancor brand cables with swaged terminals for jumpers between the six volt batteries are available from many marine stores or cables may be made up as required if you have a proper sized crimper to handle #4 wire and terminals. A new #6 red wire must be run from the battery box to the alternator for charging from the alternator. This is the only new wire from the engine area to the battery box that needs to be run, assuming the shore power charger wiring is already in place. <br />
<br />
Most Catalinas used a plastic conduit for the wires from the engine to the battery box and it may be possible to get this wire in the existing conduit. If not, it should be protected with a flexible plastic 1/2" or 3/4" conduit available in the electrical department of Home Depot or similar store. The existing red #4 lead from the starter solenoid to the battery switch is used, but is removed from the common terminal of the switch and connected to position #2 of the switch. Since the starting battery is also connected to the starter solenoid, this wire effectively goes to the starting battery as well and is used both for charging and emergency starting from the house battery bank.<br />
<br />
With the revised wiring, position #1 of the battery switch is for normal operation. The switch should be left in this position at all times unless you want to isolate the house battery when the boat is unattended or for emergencies. If the switch is placed in the “Both” position, the starting and house batteries are paralleled or, if the starting battery switch is off, the house battery alone will be connected for engine starting. If the house battery is ever completely discharged, the starting battery may be used in an emergency for lighting, radio, etc. by placing the switch in the #2 position. In this case, the house battery is totally isolated. Obviously, the switch should never be placed in the “Both” or #2 positions except in emergencies as either could result in house loads inadvertently depleting the starting battery. The starting battery is connected directly to the starter solenoid terminal as it is in an automobile. <br />
<br />
A fuse and a battery switch are shown in this circuit to protect the wiring and to isolate the battery if desired. The same type fuse as used for the house battery should be located near the battery. The switch should also be located near the battery to minimize the wire run to the starter solenoid. Blue Seas #9006, BEP #700-701 or Hella #87181 switches will handle the starting current, are small and reasonably priced. The starting battery ground cable can be attached to any convenient bolt on the engine block. <br />
<br />
If a side terminal automotive battery is selected, good quality standard side terminal automotive battery cables with swaged terminals can be used. Belden brand battery cables are excellent quality and carried by all NAPA stores in various lengths with factory swaged terminals. Ancor brand cables with swaged ring terminals in several lengths are available from West Marine and other marine stores for runs from a marine starting battery with eye terminals and/or runs from fuse block to switch and switch to starter solenoid. These should be used for all the #2 and #4 jumper leads for both batteries if you don’t have access to a large crimper to make up the cables yourself. <br />
<br />
As crimped or swaged terminals for #2, #4 and #6 wire are un-insulated, all of these terminals should be sleeved with Ancor brand shrink tubing coated internally with adhesive. This will provide maximum corrosion resistance and battery acid “wicking” up the copper conductors inside the vinyl insulation. <br />
<br />
The charging circuits for the shore power charger should be connected independently to both batteries as shown. Shore power chargers with multiple battery outputs provide the required isolation between batteries and independent regulation for each battery. Leads from the positive terminals of the charger to the positive terminals of the batteries should be protected with fuses near the battery in the same manner as the positive power leads. Fuses should be rated at 150% of the charger capacity. <br />
<br />
Loads which are “always on,” such as bilge pumps, etc., as well as alternate charging systems, should be connected directly to the house battery. These may be connected either to the #1 terminal of the battery switch or directly to the positive battery terminal and each must be protected with a fuse or circuit breaker rated at 150% of the current rating of the device. If connected directly to the battery, it may be necessary to use a bus bar terminal (as indicated above for the negative battery terminal) to avoid an excessive buildup of connections on the positive battery post. <br />
<br />
==Glow plug solenoid==<br />
Though technically not a part of the overall dc power system upgrade, the schematic shows a solenoid relay for operating the engine glow plugs. If your boat is wired to operate the glow plugs directly from the ignition switch or push-button and is not already equipped with a solenoid relay in this circuit, it would be desirable to include this modification in the general electrical power upgrade. The voltage drop in the wiring harness and glow plug switch or pushbutton as provided on earlier boats significantly reduces glow plug effectivity and can cause hard starting, particularly when it’s cold. <br />
<br />
A suitable solenoid relay, Cole Hersee #24106-BP, is available from West Marine. Install it at the rear of the engine, making sure at least one of the mounting flanges is grounded to the engine. Disconnect the wire coming from the Universal harness to the rear glow plug. Connect this to the small terminal on the solenoid relay. Connect a fused #10 lead from the starter solenoid to either large terminal of the solenoid relay and another #10 lead from the other large terminal to the rear glow plug. <br />
<br />
Where it typically took 20-50 seconds previously to preheat the glow plugs with a cold engine, it should take only 8-12 seconds to preheat them after the conversion. Current Westerbeke-Universal diesel engines come equipped with this type of solenoid relay. This improvement is well described on the C34 Web site Projects page at [[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical/glowplugs glow plugs]].<br />
<br />
----<br />
----<br />
<br />
'''CHANGES TO JIM MOE'S WIRING DIAGRAM - ECHO CHARGERS and WIRING CHANGES TO KEEP THE 1-2-B SWITCH'''<br />
<br />
(from a MB topic discussion) In Reply #11, Item 3, on this topic, I mentioned that Jim Moe had CHANGED his echo charger connections FROM the 1-2-B switch connections TO the bank (+) posts. <br />
<br />
This is a VERY IMPORTANT modification. <br />
<br />
SEE UPDATED WIRING DIAGRAM<br />
<br />
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[[image:UPDATED_C34ElecTHUMB.jpg|border|350px]]<br />
Click this link to download the high res version [[media:UPDATED_CatalinaElectricSystem.jpg]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
In a discussion recently on co.com (see: [http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=107109]) we discussed this very issue. It is an operational, not electrical design issue. This is a copy of the pertinent ideas from that full thread. <br />
<br />
Bob wrote: "It looks to me that if that switch [reserve bank on/off switch] was off the echo charger wouldn't be doing it's job."<br />
<br />
I replied: As Jim's wiring diagram is set up, you are completely correct. I spoke with Jim since he published this in 2004, and he noted that based on my suggestion he has moved the echo charger from as shown to the battery (+) posts as recommended by the echo charger manufacturer.<br />
<br />
The following is very IMPORTANT to understand: Since his operating concept is to turn the reserve bank switch ON when he gets on the boat and he doesn't leave it plugged in when he's away, what you point out, quite correctly, is not an issue for him if wired this way. Again, you're right: if the reserve bank switch was OFF, and wired this way, the echo charger would NOT charge the reserve bank. Period. If wired to the banks, it wouldn't matter and would always work.<br />
<br />
The co.com link also explains how you can change Jim's wiring diagram with two switches to my "preferred" single 1-2-B switch design with just two simple wiring mods. And given this link, there are way more other designs out there, too.<br />
<br />
Here's how: <br />
<br />
Here's what you CAN DO - based on Jim's diagram ONLY to change from Jim's two switch design to Stu's single 1-2-B switch design:<br />
<br />
1. Take the reserve on/off switch and throw it out (or just leave it ON)<br />
2. Conceptually: Run the reserve (+) DIRECTLY to the #2 post of the 1-2-B switch for power TO the switch and run a wire from the output "C" post of the switch to the starter solenoid<br />
<br />
To do this you need to do two things:<br />
1) Take what's shown as the "Existing #4 red" between the starter & the #2 post and MOVE it FROM the "2" post TO the "C" post of the 1-2-B switch, and leave it on the starter. This gives you power TO the starter from either bank. It also lets you parallel the banks if your echo charger fails (backup, backup, backup...)<br />
2) Run a new wire from the (+) output of the reserve bank to the #2 post of the switch, without that pesky second on/off switch. Do not run ANYTHING from the reserve bank to the starter solenoid, go only directly to the switch. (The wiring sizes are your choice.)<br />
<br />
You're done.<br />
<br />
Bob, what this does is make the 1-2-B switch THE controller for the output to the starter from either of the 2 battery banks (and, of course, to the DP).<br />
<br />
It also does exactly what I've been suggesting all along - uses the simple 1-2-B switch to control everything. It changes Jim's design to mine!!!<br />
<br />
1. The 1-2-B switch is only used for battery bank selection and output to two things; the DP and the starter (the "always on" loads can be left as shown or run directly to the house bank or other switches and fuses - your choice)<br />
<br />
2. The alternator output goes to the house bank [nowhere near the switch!!!] with a combiner, echo charger, etc. used to supply the reserve bank. Also see the discussion below about using the 1-2-B switch for that purpose.<br />
<br />
Simple, eh?<br />
<br />
The downside of "Stu's design" is that engine starting from the house bank can knock electronics off line. That's why some folks prefer having the reserve bank always start the engine.<br />
<br />
Your boat, your choice.<br />
<br />
For more thoughts on this, see: Alternator Output & Battery Switch Wiring: [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4934.0.html]<br />
<br />
'''Option Summary:''' Either use Jim's two switch design or my preferred "Keep the 1-2-B Switch arrangement" which is:<br />
<br />
1. continue to use the 1-2-B switch<br />
<br />
2. AO direct to house bank<br />
<br />
3. each bank output to 1-2-B switch<br />
<br />
4. C post of switch to distribution panel and starter solenoid<br />
<br />
5. either use an echo charger to charge the reserve bank or use the B position on the switch - simple <br />
<br />
'''ABOUT CHANGING YOUR OEM ALTERNATOR'''<br />
<br />
You don't "HAVE TO" upgrade the alternator, because the acceptance of the battery bank will limit the current that can go into them. In most cases the original internal regulator with the stock alternator will provide enough amperage to keep your house bank between the 50% and 85% SOC quite well, albeit somewhat longer than a newer higher output alternator would. Smaller alternator, less charging, longer charging time. If, however, you're a weekend warrior, it'll make little difference. In all cases, though, there is a steadily diminishing law of input power from an alternator alone on a house bank, which is why, unless you have alternate charging sources like solar or wind, you will need to plug into shorepower at least weekly to bring your house bank up to full. Written up in most reliable electrical source books, like Calder.</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22&diff=4656M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit "B/M 256891"2013-03-24T23:38:19Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>{|<br />
|If for some reason you haven't changed to the new alternator bracket on your older (1986, early 1987) M25 21 hp Universal diesel engines, DO SO IMMEDIATELY.<br />
<br />
I learned the hard way yesterday. I'd bought the retrofit kit from Universal a year ago, and was going to do it "soon." I'd just motored over to a friend's dock for a visit, less than 5 minutes away from our slip. When my friend used the head, he came back and said, "Houston, we have a problem!" He'd noticed oil dripping from the underside of the alternator access door onto the head sole. When we took off the stairs to expose the engine, the old "over the top" alternator bracket had sheared, the alternator was lying back to port dangling from the old fan belt, and there was oil everywhere. As it disintegrated the bracket and alternator had clobbered the oil filter, which spouted oil onto the fan belt and blew it all over the engine compartment. It also nicked the fresh water cooling hose. The oil filter kept the alternator from slamming into the casing of the engine.<br />
I got out the new bracket kit, and with generous help from two friends, I removed the old parts, and fitted in the new "underneath" bracket in about three hours. <br />
<br />
Most of the time was spent adjusting the hose clamps on the new fresh water line which goes under the new bracket, since there is only a very small amount of clearance between it and the top of the oil filter. I also had to use a rubber bicycle tube with a hose clamp as a patch over the dinged fresh water hose, which, of course, was within a half inch of the end of the hose on the new copper elbow. Also, we had to drop the alternator again to move the alternator ground wire further back to one of the other studs since the wire was in the way when it was replaced on its old stud.<br />
<br />
October 2011 - From E. Herlihy an O'Day 35 owner: Last November (2010) I installed the upgraded Alternator mounting bracket, with the kit available through Torrensen Marine, and while I was at it I installed a new Leece-Nevile / Prestolite 90 amp alternator on my Universal M25. If you are reading this far, you probably know that the new alternator uses EXACTLY the same housing as the old 55 amp Motorola. BTW the kit is now ~$180.00 When I opened the box containing the kit, I was happy to see that it included all the parts, including the Alternator mounting bolts. I did the installation using the new bolts, but noticed that they did not seem to fit perfectly. The SAE Grade 5 pivot bolt allowed "a little" play of the alternator, and the tension bolt never seemed to fit "right." At the time I assumed that the alternator was machined so that the bolt would jam, thus preventing the bolt from loosening. The real reason is embarrassing....<br />
<br />
I thought it strange that both of these bolts, and the nut were SAE.<br />
031555 - 5/16NC x 1<br />
031615 - 3/8NC x 3-1/2<br />
031762 - Nut 3/8-16 Hex Steel Zinc<br />
<br />
However, EVERY other fastener is Metric. I assumed that Torrensen would know and include the correct bolts, however the extra play was because the bolts did not fit... you know what happens when you ass-u-me... The Pivot bolt SHOULD BE a Metric M10 fastener. The tension bolt (connects the tension arm and the alternator) SHOULD BE a Metric M8 coarse thread. I realized this because I was getting a little belt dust on the engine. After only 50 hours this summer, I thought that was unusual, or I would need to buy a lot of belts. In October of this year (2011), I checked the alternator tension, and the "little" play seemed a "little" worse than it should have...<br />
<br />
Because by now I had stripped some of the threads with the bolt that was included with the kit, I purchased a slightly longer bolt, a nut, and lock washer to use as a tension bolt. I also replaced the pivot bolt with a slightly longer M10 Fine thread bolt. It fit perfectly (no play at all). I used 2 nuts and a spring washer to jam the pivot bolt, so that it will not vibrate loose. I can't speak to the kit available through Catalina Direct, but the Torrensen kit has the wrong bolts!<br />
<br />
Lesson 1: If the components in the "kit" don't seem right to you, they are not.<br />
Lesson 2: DO NOT USE THE ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BOLTS INCLUDED IN THE TORRENSEN KIT if they are SAE, and you have a Leece-Neville or Motorola Alternator. <br />
<br />
PICTURES of the different bolts are now on the C34 Forum, and include the bolts to use with pictures: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5127.0.html [8/8/2012]<br />
<br />
[03/24/2013 - Stu] - My adjusting bracket broke. Since a new one would have taken two weeks to obtain through the local Universal dealer or Torreson, I had one made locally, a tad thicker, too. I use 7400 3/8" belts on our 100A Blue Circle alternator (using the metric bolts). I found the alternator bottomed out the new bracket and I couldn't get tension. I tried a backup 7390 belt I had, too short. I went to NAPA and found they make a 7395 belt.<br />
<br />
==Lessons Learned:==<br />
<br />
# If you haven't, replace the older style bracket TODAY. It'll give NO NOTICE of failure: it will just GO! I was fortunate that I had all the spare parts including the bracket kit, spare oil filter, bicycle tire for water hose patch, extra hose clamps and all the tools. Also was very helpful to have assistance. Once you get your hands oily (with or without gloves) you need a lot of help getting things you need without trashing the cabin.<br />
# One of the tricky parts is installing the hose and its new clamp underneath to provide clearance for the alternator and making sure you position the hose clamp to permit access to the screw for future tightening and checking.<br />
# The existing studs on the fresh water reservoir were just fine. The retrofit kit comes with new studs, but I didn't have to replace them.<br />
# Put the new belt on before you pop the alternator into place with the new adjusting bracket. The kit comes with two new fan belts. They're shorter than the original ones.<br />
# It's a heck of a way to do an oil change AND replace the antifreeze!<br />
# The recent List contributions about plugging the hole between the bottom of the engine compartment and the bilge leave me inclined to recommend keeping the hole, rather than plugging it. While I've got a mess in the bilge to clean up, if the oil and antifreeze hadn't gone into the bilge, it would have filled up the engine pan and spilled over into the cabin, the head, and probably back into the area underneath the aft cabin - not as easy to clean as the contained mess in the bilge.<br />
# The Alternator belt tensioner flix are here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3667.0.html<br />
Stu Jackson, ''[[Aquavite]]'' #224, San Francisco<br />
|<br />
<gallery caption="Click on any picture to enlarge" widths="100px" heights="100px" perrow="2"><br />
image:altold-bracket.jpg|Old Bracket still in place<br />
image:oil-bilge.jpg|Bracket "Broke" and Out Came the Oil!<br />
image:altold-broken.jpg|Broken parts<br />
image:altnew-kit.jpg|M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit<br />
image:altnew-bracket2.jpg|Close-up of New Bracket<br />
image:altnew-bracket.jpg|New bracket Installed<br />
</gallery><br />
Pictures by Stu Jackson, ''Aquavite'' #224<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Message Board Q&A on the alternator bracket upgrade==<br />
====Identifying if your alternator mount needs replacement====<br />
In the recent copy of mainsheet mentioned upgrading the alternator bracket. I'm not sure mine was ever done, although it hasn't presented any problems yet. I ordered the past tech notes collection, and read the article on the bracket. Unfortunately, the copy quality of the pictures that show the old and new bracket are not good. I wondered if you had a better copy if you could send, or a description that would help me determine if I have the old or new? <br />
Dave, Confetti #287, White Lake (Lake Michigan)<br />
<br />
----<br />
Most of us who have read the last several issues of Mainsheet know that the alternator bracket on the Universal Model 25 diesel engine can fail, which can crack the valve cover, resulting in a loss of engine lubricating oil. The manufacturer changed the bracket during 1987, and the current C34 production incorporates the improved engine, although dealers still have some boats with the uncorrected engine. The correct bracket uses an adjustment arm below the alternator. Factory supplied engines will also have "Model 25 XP" affixed to the top of the coolant reservoir. The old arrangement, which is likely to fail in time, has the adjusting arm above the alternator. By the way, the manufacturer does not acknowledge this as a problem, and requires about $115 for the upgrade kit. (NOTE: I paid $95.00 for mine in 1998. It's worth every penny!) Herb Schneider, ''former C34IA Tech Editor''<br />
<br />
----<br />
Stu, Also read your message to Al on the saga of your bracket replacement. Let me give you a couple of thoughts. First the best chafe guard that I've found for around that metal tube that carries coolant above the oil filter is a piece of 1" ribbed black plastic hose (at any marine store -- el cheapo stuff). All you have to do is cut a piece the length that you need and then slice it lengthwise to slip it on where you want chafe guard.<br />
The shortest filter that I've found (which I also use) is a Kubota 70000-15241. See the May & Aug 96 issues of Mainsheet for more filter #'s and important discussion. As far as the oil filters the Kabota 70000-15241 was only 1/4" longer than the miniature Fram filters. What I didn't like about the miniature Fram filter was the diameter. It only seated on a small portion of the facing surface of the engine. I also question how much filter material was really in there because of the smaller diameter. Can't remember if it had a clogged filter bypass or not, but don't think it had an anti-drain back valve. Your engine -- your choice.<br />
<br />
Another thought. I changed my belt from a 3/8 #395 to a 7/16 #400 which is a "tad" larger & LONGER. If you have trouble and have the space toward the alternator door try a #405 length belt. <br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788<br />
<br />
==Belt tensioning==<br />
As far as belt tensioning - in the dark ages they use a mallet or pry bar. If you go to an auto parts store you can buy a "belt tensioning" tool. It's like a turnbuckle with a left & right thread at a whooping cost of $6-$8! Screw it out till you get the correct tension then tighten the alternator retaining nuts. Easy as pie. Then screw the tool off. Meant to put this in the Mainsheet as a tip.<br />
<br />
Don't overtension or you'll be buying a new internal water pump. To get better alternator spacing maybe a washer might help. I replaced all the bracket bolts with longer ones as the holes were threaded all the way thru. I also recommend that alternator upgrades be limited to 90 amp for side loading and spacing.<br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788 <br />
----<br />
Although my boat is newer and has a MP-25XP engine with the bracket below, I wore out two 7/16" wide Gates heavy duty belts on my new Balmar 100 alternator in less than 500 rpm. It was impossible for me to keep adequate tension on the belts. To adjust the tension one must loosen the alternator bracket and the alternator mounting bolt, pull the alternator back and tighten the alternator bolt while keeping tension on the alternator and then tighten the bracket. Having done this several times during a passage while burning hands and arms and having to shut down the engine. I figured there must be an easier way to add tension to the belt and keep it there. I added a turnbuckle between the alternator bolt and the support beam of the engine. The only thing I was afraid of is that by pushing the alternator out, one also pushes on the engine and one could mess up the engine alignment. I have not done this yet, but I really want to. What are your thoughts about this? What size turnbuckle did you use, and how did you mount it?<br />
Looking forward to seeing your response or anybody else.<br />
Leo Missler, ''Dutch Lion'' C34 #1183 (1992)<br />
----<br />
I did this on the advice of my mechanic who has lots of experience but obviously is not perfect. We did it upon packing up Puff prior to putting her on the hard for the summer (Florida), so I don't have lots of experience with the turnbuckle.<br />
However, I used a 3/8" turnbuckle a shorter one. Pressed a nut into the eye of one end and then a couple of big washers and then bolted all that to the port side of the alternator.<br />
Screwed in a eye bolt to the engine mount platform and repeated the process on that end. Also put another nut on so I could "lock" it in by running it up against the tube.<br />
Wasn't brain surgery and seems to be very solid. It is not on tight enough to change the alignment, I think. It could be a problem if the engine vibrates and the platform doesn't but we will see.<br />
It will be a year before I actually try it.<br />
Frank, ''Puff'' #691 <br />
<br />
----<br />
Just a thought about belt tension and the XP-25.<br />
If you are just having problems putting normal tension on the belt, then the turnbuckle solution would be ok especially if you relaxed the turnbuckle after tightening up the adjusting bolts on the alt. bracket. Flex mounts are supposed to do just that. I would think that sooner or later the tension of the turnbuckle would either pull things out of alignment or transfer noise and vibration into the engine bed. If you are trying to provide more than "normal" tension then please check out below and confirm this information for yourself.<br />
When I was researching putting a high output alternator on "Family Affair" a tech at Maryville Marine, the Universal representative said that they didn't recommend beyond the factory belt tension settings because the front bearing and seal will not put up with a lot of side stress. It seems that the front crank pulley is pretty far in front of the actual front bearing on the block. Belt tension therefore has a lot of mechanical advantage. Much more so than if the crank bearing was right behind the pulley. That front housing is aluminum and full of timing gears. The crank bearing is way back (aft) behind them. Their suggested solution was to add an additional pulley (making 2 belts) on any alternator 100amp or above. They then say you can pull about 5hp off of the stock front pulley. They have the kits available on special order.<br />
Ken Dickson, ''Family Affair'' C34 #876</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=4652Diesel Engine2013-03-04T20:24:49Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Just a little info here; so, please add your own more comprehensive overview and maintenance article here)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
* Exhaust Hose Replacement with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.0.html<br />
* Rebuilding an OBERDORFER Raw Water Pump with Flix http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html<br />
* HEAT EXCHANGER SOURCES and Replacement Bracket and Exchanger with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6920.0.html<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners by Stu Jackson'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
Engine Harness Upgrade from Maine Sail http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade and http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
Kubota Filter Equivalents http://www.orangetractortalks.com/2008/12/gray-market-kubota-oil-filter-part-numbers/<br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/manuals/ZF_Hurth_Repair_manual.pdf Transmissions:Hurth Repair Manual PDF file]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
KUBOTA equivalent parts http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,978.0.html<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]<br />
Westerbeke/Universal now has the owner manuals online. You can download them at http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/OnlineManuals.aspx</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Maintenance&diff=4651Maintenance2013-02-20T15:48:05Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Engine==<br />
*[[Heat_Exchanger_Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
<br />
==Filters, Fluids, and Oils==<br />
*[[Contaminated_Diesel_Fuel_Cure|Contaminated fuel cure Q&A]]<br/><br />
*[[How_to_Clean_a_Diesel_Fuel_Tank|How to clean a diesel fuel tank Q&A]]<br/><br />
*[[Water in Your Fuel?|How to determine if you have water in the Racor]] primary fuel filter<br/><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
*[[Water Tank Commissioning]]<br><br />
<br />
==Finishes/Waxes==<br />
*[[Cleaning Tips|Cleaning tips: the mother of all lists]] (add your own favorite cleaning tips here!)<br><br />
*[[Remove the Handrails|Removing handrails in order to refinish them]]<br><br />
*[[Using Future on the Deck]]? <br><br />
<br />
==Hull==<br />
*[[Rebedding Chain plates|Fixing Chain Plate Leaks: a Q&A]]<br/><br />
*[[Gel Coat Patching Paste]]<br/><br />
*[[Inspecting and Re-bedding Chainplates]]<br/><br />
*[[Keel Bolts - Inspecting Tightening]]<br/> by Bob Kuba<br />
*[[Rebedding_teak|Re-bedding teak trim]]<br/><br />
*[[Rebedding Life Line Stanchions|Re-bedding Stanchions]]<br/><br />
*[[Teak_plug|Teak plug removal]]<br/><br />
*[[Winter Cover POV|Winter cover POV]] by Ron Hill<br />
*[[Removing teak plugs]] Ver 2<br />
*[[Sealant Types]]<br />
<br />
==Rigging, Lines==<br />
*[[Lifeline Cleaning]]<br />
<br />
==Tips & Techniques==<br />
*[[Drilling Stainless & Aluminum]]<br />
<br />
==Winterization==<br />
*[[Water Tank Commissioning|Water tank commissioning]]<br/><br />
*[[Winterizing Hot Water Heater| Winterizing the water heater]]<br/><br />
*[[Winterization Tips|Winterization tips]]<br/><br />
<br />
==Items of Interest==<br />
There are over 40 [http://c34.org/tech-notes-index/index.htm Tech Notes] on this subject.<br></div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Keel_Bolts_-_Inspecting_Tightening&diff=4650Keel Bolts - Inspecting Tightening2013-02-20T15:45:50Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Keel Bolts==<br />
''' By Bob Kuba, ''[[Quiet Island]]'' #1291 (1994)'''<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Link to tool source (Stu 2/20/13): http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7356.0.html<br />
<br />
====Keel Bolts, Out of sight and out of mind. ====<br />
This is a project that should be on your commissioning list, ''before'' your boat goes in the water. Ensure that your keel bolts have the proper amount of torque on them. <br />
<br />
====Wing and Fin Keels====<br />
Same value, torque to 107 ft. lbs.<br />
<br />
====Tools needed====<br />
* Torque wrench (You can rent for a day from many auto-parts supply stores)<br />
* 9" extension bar<br />
* 1 1/8" 6 point deep socket - 1/2" drive.<br />
<br />
<br />
====Gotchas====<br />
Not all keel studs are created equal. Before purchasing a socket measure your longest keel bolt assembly from the bottom of the nut to the top of the stud. Some boats have short studs and others have much longer studs. <br />
<br />
* Sears<br />
:The "standard" deep socket from Sears is 3 1/4" tall. ($10.69)<br />
:http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=1+1%2F8+inch+deep+socket&x=20&y=6<br />
:Measuring from the bottom of the nut to the top of the stud It will accomodate a height of approximately 2 1/2 inches.<br /><br />
<br />
* Snap-on Tools ($60.75)<br />
:Their deep specialty socket is 5" tall <br />
:http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=3599&group_ID=405&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog<br />
:Measuring from the bottom of the nut to the top of the stud It will accomodate a height of approximately 4 1/4 inches.<br />
<br />
* Custom Socket ($25 - $35)<br />
:If your longest stud is taller than 4 1/4" there is an easy solution. Purchase the Sears deep socket and take it to a local welding shop and have them cut it in half and extend it to 5 1/2", or more using a piece of steel pipe. It works, and for about a third the price of a specialty socket.<br />
<br />
[[image:custom_socket.jpg|thumb|200px|left|5 1/4" Custom welded socket]]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Catalina_34&diff=4648Catalina 342013-01-20T18:17:23Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>The ''Catalina 34'' is great boat not only to sail but to own. Here's how it has [[Evolution of the Catalina 34|evolved over the years]] through several models. <br />
<br><br />
* See the archived original FAQ and Projects pages right down below<br />
* [[History]]<br />
<br />
IMPORTANT: Please note that the wiki does not have all topics cross referenced to the daily Main Message Board. The MB has been going since 2001 or so and has a variety of technical information not "migrated" to the wiki. There are many innovative ideas, photographs and discussions of technical importance on the MB. It has a very good search engine and a suggestion on its use is here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3880.0.html<br />
<br />
*Anyone may read the topics. If you wish to add content to the wiki you must log in. Use the same user name and password that you use to access the forum.<br><br><br />
<br />
== Topics ==<br />
<br />
* [[Maintenence tips from a new owner]]<br />
* [[Buying Tips for an Older C34 - 1986 http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7323.0.html]]<br />
* [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6437.0.html "101" Series of Tips & Tricks ]<br />
* [[Anchoring & Docking]]<br />
* [[Cockpit]] <br />
* [[Critical Upgrades|<font color="red">CRITICAL UPGRADES</font>]]<br />
* [[Dinghies and Tenders]]<br />
* [[Electrical]]<br />
* [[Electronics]]<br />
* [[Diesel Engine| Engine]]<br />
* [[Fuel]]<br />
* [[Galley]]<br />
* [[Head]]<br />
* [[Hull]]<br />
* [[Interior]]<br />
* [[Leaks]]<br />
* [[Maintenance]]<br />
* [[Manuals]]<br />
* [[Miscellaneous]]<br />
* [[Paints & Finishes]]<br />
* [[Performance and Motoring]]<br />
* [[Plumbing]]<br />
* [[Port Lights & Hatches]]<br />
* [[Prop-shaft]]<br />
* [[Refrigeration]]<br />
* [[Rigging and Sails]]<br />
* [[Rudder| Rudder & Steering]]<br />
* [[Safety ]]<br />
* [[Storage]]<br />
* [[Stuffing box]]<br />
* [[Ventilation]]<br />
* [[Woodwork-teak]]<br />
<br />
== Another View ==<br />
<br />
<ul><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="background:white;"<br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Engine to Propeller]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Engine, Transmission, Stuffing Box, Shaft & Prop</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Rigging and Sails|Rigging]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Sails, Spars, Standing & Running Rigging</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Hull & Rudder]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Rudder Post, Helm, Keel Bolts, Updates</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Electrical]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Wiring, Batteries, Chargers, Shore Power, Generators</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Electronics]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>GPS, Chartplotters, Instruments, Autopilots</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Cockpit|On Deck]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Cockpit Tables, Swim Ladder, Dodger & Bimini </small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Cabin]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Storage, Ventilation, Woodwork, Cushions, Lighting</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Galley]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Fridge, Stove, Sink and activities in the Galley</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Head]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Head, Shower, Holding Tank, Related Systems</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Plumbing]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Hot Water, Water Tanks, Hoses, Thru hulls</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Port Lights & Hatches]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Replacing & Repairing</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Maintenance]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Leaks, Paints & Finishes, Cleaning, Teak</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Anchoring & Docking]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Gear & Techniques</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Performance|Sailing & Motoring]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Operation, c34 Specs/Performance</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Dinghy]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Stowing, Towing & Operating</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Safety]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>PDF, Harness, Jack Lines</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Misc]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>One of Kind Items</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq.html FAQs]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Archived C34 Faq page</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[http://www.c34.org/projects/projects.html Projects]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Archived C34 Projects page</small><br />
|}<br />
<br />
== By Boat/Author ==<br />
''Are you a "projects" person? Or is your boat one? Then add a "master index" page to all your projects.''<br />
''We do not require any specific minimum but would prefer at least 4 or 5 on your list.''<br><br />
''Thanks, your friendly Project's webmaster.''<br />
<br />
* [[Apache]]<br />
* [[Aquavite]]<br />
* [[BlackDragon]]<br />
* [[Espresso]]<br />
* [[Kindred Spirit]]<br />
* [[Luna Loca]]<br />
* [[Quiet Island]]<br />
* [[Weal Sea]]<br />
* [[Yorkshire Rose]]<br />
<br />
== How to add content ==<br />
<br />
[[Plain language "How to Wiki" guide]]<br />
<br />
====Templates====<br />
*[[Template double column text and pix project|Double-column text/picture template]]<br />
*[[Template messageboard query|Message Board thread compilation template]]<br />
*[[Template_simple_text_and_integrated_picture|Simple integrated text and picture project]]<br />
<br />
====Formatting help====<br />
Need some help [[Help:Contents|getting started]]<br /><br />
*[http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting Formatting guide]<br><br />
*[http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Links Linking guide]<br><br />
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<small>[[Test homepage]]</small></div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Inspecting_and_Re-bedding_Chainplates&diff=4647Inspecting and Re-bedding Chainplates2012-12-15T21:45:00Z<p>Stu jackson: /* Correction Note */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Mike Vaccaro, ''[[Spirit]]'' #563 (1988)<br />
<br />
<br />
[[image:chainPlateRepair1.jpg|thumb|400px|Chain plate shows signs of surface corrosion due to leaking around the bolt on the left and the top edge of the plate. This was the original factory bedding, 19-years old at the time the picture was taken—long over-due for replacement.<br />
]]<br />
One of the necessary evils of owning a boat is the requirement to re-bed deck hardware from time to time. The C34 has a well-designed chain plate system that effectively transfers the rigging load from the shrouds to the deck and the hull. Unlike many sailboats, the plates are not tied to a bulkhead or any interior wood work. The holes for the plates do, however, pass through the deck which is a sandwich is made up of the hull liner, plywood and the deck laminate. In Mark I boats, the holes were cut and the chain plates installed with bedding compound. The edges of the laminated plywood were left exposed. This is a prime source of water intrusion that can lead to deck rot and delamination. If extensive, this rot requires major structural repair and is best avoided by properly maintaining the bedding compound used to seal the chain plate holes in the deck. The interior chain plate assemblies should be regularly inspected for the presence of leaks. Leaks are evidenced by presence of water, corrosion on plate components or brown staining around the plate assemblies. Water that leaks through the plates is likely to run down the rod assembly and cause water damage to the wood shelving behind the settees.<br />
<br />
The proper bedding material for chain plates is polysulfide. Boatlife Life Caulk or 3M 101 are two readily available examples. The prime benefits of polysulfide are its sealing properties, flexibility when cured and that it is readily removed when it’s time to re-bed in the future. The only down side to polysulfide is the time required for a complete cure—up to 21 days in cold temperatures. Polyurethane adhesive/sealants such as 3M 5200 should not be used as their primary purpose is to adhere, not seal components. Due to flexing and maintenance requirements it WILL be necessary in the future to be able to disassemble the chain plates. Polyether sealants may be used (3M 4000 UV or West Marine Multi-caulk) as can silicone, especially if limited time is available for bedding jobs.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Correction Note ====<br />
Bill of "Grace Under Pressure" wrote (Nov. 2009): as far as the chain plate rebedding there is what I consider a flaw in the instructions on this website. According to Don Casey's book sailboat hull and deck repair, you need to rebed the chainplates but skip the sealant on the underside of the chainplates inside the cabin. You do not want to seal moisture in the deck. I am not saying that the instructions are not good, they are, just do not seal the underside (cabin) plate. This will allow moisture to enter the cabin when the seal at the chainplate fails - indicating time to reseal or rebed. [Stu]<br />
<br />
BUTYL tape has been shown to be a GREAT improvement over silicone sealant. See this Message Board thread: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7249.0.html [Stu 12/15/123]<br />
<br />
===Removal===<br />
This repair is best accomplished with the boat in the water. This will allow the bedding to cure with the chain plates under tension. It’s best to work on the same shroud on both sides of the boat at the same time, i.e., aft lowers, uppers or forward lowers. The first step is to treat your turnbuckles to a spray of lubricant. Then, remove the cotter pins from the bolts. The turn buckle is loosened with two wrenches, one to hold the shroud stationary and the other to turn the turn buckle. Two adjustable wrenches will work. A medium and large type works the best, using the medium wrench to hold the shroud and the large wrench on the center of the turn buckle. It is important not to allow the shroud to twist when loosening the turnbuckle. Only the turn buckle should turn. Turn the turnbuckle for a turn or two and look at the threads to determine if you are tightening or loosening it. When viewed from above, most turnbuckle assemblies are rotated counter-clock wise to loosen. Continue to loosen the turnbuckle until the shroud is slack and you can remove the cotter pin in the clevis pin holding the t-bolt to the chain plate. Disconnect the shroud from the chain plate. <br />
<br />
[[image:chainPlateRepair2.jpg|thumb|400px|Bolt, lock washer and bushing at the base of the rod. The assembly shown does not have a lock nut. Note beveled aluminum bushing at the top of the assembly. ]]<br />
The next step is to go below and remove the back cushions on the settees to access the bolts at the bottom of the rod. Use a 15/16” wrench to loosen these bolts. A shot of lubricant will help if the bolts have not been loosened. Some boats have two nuts—the lower nut is a lock nut to ensure the upper nut doesn’t back off. Other boats are equipped with multiple lock washers. Be sure that after you loosen these bolts you catch all of the hardware so that it’s not lost in the recesses of the hull. You may or may not be able to slide the aluminum beveled bushing at the top of the assembly. If there has been any leaking, the aluminum may have corroded slightly to the stainless rod. A tap with a hammer will usually be sufficient to loosen this bushing. Each bushing is different; so use care not to mix them up. Also note which side is the top and bottom when you remove it and mark it so that it’s reinstalled properly. If you don’t wish to completely disassemble and lubricate or remove the rod, it’s only necessary to loosen the bolt a bit to allow you twist the rod out of the chain plate fitting. <br />
<br />
To remove the rod from the chain plate base, just turn it until it’s loose. This will be easier with a bit of lubricant, a light tap with a hammer and then a non-marring vice grip or channel lock pliers. Use care not to damage the polished stainless rod. After it’s screwed out of the chain plate, allow the rod to slide down to rest on the hull. It is possible to remove the upper and aft rods if you wish to clean them up, but the forward lower rods are difficult to remove unless the teak trim strip below the port lights is removed. <br />
<br />
The next step is to go back up on deck and remove the chain plate covers. These are the metal rectangles that surround the base of the chain plate and are held in place with two small #8 ¾” stainless screws. Remove the screws and gently pry the cover off of the deck. It will be necessary to clean the old sealant from the cover after removal. The screws should be replaced with hex head bolts and the standard washers will be replaced with fender washers during reassembly. <br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery caption="Click any image to enlarge" perrow=3 widths=210px heights=250px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair3.jpg|Chain plate cover and machine screws that hold plate to the bottom of the deck<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair4.jpg|Turnbuckle/shroud removal<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair8.jpg|Removing chain plate cover<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair5.jpg|Remove nuts down below<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair6.jpg|Remove nut, lock washer and angled aluminum washer behind settee and rod<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair7.jpg|Uunscrew the threaded <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
The last step is to remove the two 3/8” x 16 course threaded machine screws that hold the plate to the deck. This is a one person job as the screws and bolts can be accessed by reaching through open portholes. Once the bolts are removed, the easiest way to pry the plate from the bottom of the deck is to go above and simply stand on the plate to put pressure on it. Apply smooth steady pressure—don’t stomp on it. If you are working alone, be sure to put something below to catch the plate when it falls as it weighs several pounds. After removal, the chain plate components should be disassembled and cleaned.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=225px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair9.jpg|Carefully breaking the seal and removing chain plate from the deck. This can be aided if someone can step on the plate from above and provide downward pressure.<br />
image:chainPlateRepair10.jpg|This is how the port upper plate looked after removal and before it was cleaned. After cleaning, there was only minor surface corrosion which was removed and the plate was re-installed.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
===Preparation & cleaning===<br />
Old sealant and any surface corrosion should be cleaned from the plates and components after removal. A combination of steel wool, a wire brush, Scotchbrite, razor scraper, small screw driver and elbow grease will aid with mechanical removal of ALL of the old sealant. Any sealant not removed may prevent proper adhesion of the new bedding compound during re-installation. The plate components should be inspected for any signs of corrosion. Welds should be inspected for any signs of fatigue. Some light pitting as the result of surface corrosion is probably O.K.; but any cracks or fissures should be suspect. Any suspect plates should be replaced. Replacement plates can be obtained from Catalina. You’ll need to specify your hull number, year built and which chain plate when ordering. <br />
<br />
Cleaning the deck and chain plate cut-out will require some effort. Our chain plates were installed at the factory with silicone. Of the six plates, only one showed no signs of leaking after twenty years. Five simply required cleaning and a coat of clear, deep-penetrating epoxy (CDPE) to seal the exposed edge of the 3/8” plywood in the deck laminate. One had some rot in the plywood around the bolt holes and cutout which required repair, and this chain plate also exhibited sufficient signs of corrosion to warrant replacement. <br />
<br />
Silicone, polysulfide or polyurethane sealants require mechanical removal. A combination of small screw driver, Scotchbrite and a small stainless steel brush will remove the sealant from the no-skid deck. A 3/8” drill can be used to clean the bolt holes and a combination of files and sand paper will clean the inside of the chain plate cut-out. The wood in the deck laminate should be inspected. If it is the color of normal wood, there is no rot. If it has turned black, but resists probing with a knife or other sharp object, it should be dried out and then treated with CDPE. Even if there is no sign of rot, two coats of CDPE will encapsulate the wood and prevent damage in the future. The inside of the bolt holes should be treated as well as the outboard cover plate screw hole (this will require the use of a syringe to apply the epoxy).<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=225px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair11.jpg|Disassembled chain plate components. This is the port aft lower plate from Hull 563 and is a different design than the other five. It has bolts in addition to the weld holding the chain plate to the base. Based on the type and condition of the sealant, it appears that this plate was installed at the factory during production.<br />
image:chainPlateRepair12.jpg|The other five plates on Hull 563 do not have bolts reinforcing the weld. Additionally, the have heavier gauge metal for the hinge plates on the bottom. Note the markings to aid in re-installation. It DOES matter that the plates be re-installed in the same orientation in which they were removed.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
If there has been sufficient leaking to allow the plywood core to rot, repair is more problematic. Visual indication of problems may include gel-coat cracking if the upper glass laminate has been stressed by compression. A simple tap test with a hard object will also provide some clue as to the extent of the core damage. Ultimately, a moisture meter will be required if the damage appears to be extensive. The repair described in this article is sufficient if core damage is limited to a small area around the bolt holes and cut-out. An excellent discussion of core repair can be found at www.rotdoctor.com. If there is any doubt about the ability to properly accomplish this type of repair, it’s best to consult a professional. <br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=200px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair13.jpg|This plate showed signs of minimal leakage. There is some mold in the plywood, but this laminate can be preserved with an application of CDPE. Note the remains of the factory-applied silicone. This silicone held up well for 19-years.<br />
image:chainPlateRepair14.jpg|The same chain plate after cleaning and two coats of epoxy to seal the wood.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
The first step is to remove as much of the rotten core as practical. This will also help determine the extent of the damage/repair required. After cleaning the rotten wood, a combination of digging with a bent wire (or similar tool) and vacuum should be used to remove rotten material. The next step is to stabilize the remaining wood with CDPE. If damage is limited to a small area, the CDPE can be applied with a syringe and tubing via the cut out and bolt holes. To help the epoxy flow, heat is judiciously applied with a heat gun and the boat can be heeled slightly to aid in the flow out board. The heat will reduce the viscosity of the epoxy, aiding in absorption. Most of the repair will be the result of capillary action as the remaining plywood soaks up the epoxy. Fortunately, this area of the deck can be accessed from below, so if more extensive treatment is required, it is practical to drill into the laminate from the cabin. <br />
<br />
To properly repair the bolt holes, the holes should be bored over-size, filled with epoxy and re-drilled (3/8”) after the epoxy sets. Due to the laminated nature of the deck core, it’s only necessary to bore through the substrate until you reach the hull liner. <br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=200px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair15.jpg|The rotten plywood core has been removed from the area around the cut-out and the nearest bolt hole using an Allen wrench chucked into an electric drill. Additional material was removed with a small hooked wire. This chain plate was sufficiently corroded to warrant replacement. Probing and tap test indicated that non-repairable core damage was limited to an area within 2-3” of the cut-out. This portion of the core will need to be replaced with thickened epoxy. <br />
image:chainPlateRepair16.jpg|Over-boring the bolt holes prior to filling with epoxy. Due to the nature of the laminate, a step-drill was used for this purpose. It is not necessary to drill all the way through, only to the cabin liner. A standard drill bit may be used for this purpose. Note the crazing of the gelcoat around the bolt hole as well as the cracks that go to the cut-out. This is the result of compression and failure of the deck core in this area. <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=210px heights=150px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair17.jpg|Masking the area to contain the epoxy. Rust stains on the liner were cleaned with a combination of Davis FSR, a stainless wire brush and Scotchbrite.<br />
image:chainPlateRepair18.jpg|West System caulk tube used to force thickened epoxy into the deck. These inexpensive tubes are purchased empty and the thickened epoxy is then added. It’s important that a method be used to ensure that the epoxy is forced into filling all voids in the laminate.<br />
image:chainPlateRepair19.jpg|Thickened epoxy applied to the voids. Heat is judiciously applied to reduce viscosity—use caution since this quantity of epoxy can generate quite a bit of heat during the curing process. If in doubt, do not apply heat to this type of repair. The epoxy is allowed to fill the cut-out to a level just above where the old plywood was removed. This will need to be cut-out after the repair has set. <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
Each chain plate should be inspected after cleaning for any sign of corrosion or stress fatigue. The simple rule-of-thumb is if in doubt, replace it. Most damage severe enough to warrant replacement will be detectable with the naked eye, but a magnifying glass will go a long way to making an accurate assessment. The pictures below show good examples of a plate that should be discarded. This plate was installed in the forward lower position. It was exposed to long-term leaking. It shows signs of exfoliation corrosion around the forward bolt hole as well as a fatigue stress crack. The corrosion can be noted visually as well as by dragging a finger nail over the suspect area to detect surface imperfection. Due to the corrosive environment caused by the leak, the ability of the plate to withstand stress load is dramatically reduced. The best way to obtain a replacement chain plate or sub-component is to call Garhauer directly (909-981-2364) as they sub-contract fabrication of these fittings for Catalina. You’ll need to provide your hull number and production year so that the proper drawings can be referenced. Ask to speak to Doug. The new plate we ordered for our project fit perfectly.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=275px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair20a.jpg|Appearances can be deceptive<br />
image:chainPlateRepair20b.jpg|Chain plate corrosion and hairline crack warranting replacement<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Re-bedding & reassembly===<br />
Once the deck has been repaired or cleaned and sealed as necessary, the next step is to reinstall the chain plates. Before you apply any sealant, dry fit all of the components for proper fit. Replace any suspect hardware. Ensure that when the nuts that secure the bolts will have a minimum of two-three threads exposed AFTER the lock washer has been tightened down. If the bolt/screw is too short, it will be difficult to start the nut if sufficient thread isn’t available. This problem will compound if you are attempting to start a nut with polysulfide oozing through the assembly. If in doubt, too long is better than too short. If circumstances permit, the best 316 grade stainless will likely have to be ordered as most local stores will not stock this grade of hardware. Several good on-line sources exist. The bolts or screws that secure the plate to the deck should use locking hardware, either lock washers or lock nuts. Since there will be plenty of sealant used in assembly, I’ve found the best combination of hardware is a lock washer with a standard 3/8 x 16 nut. After the sealant has been cleaned up and dried, you can finish the end of the bolt/screw with an acorn nut if desired. <br />
<br />
Reassembly sequence is important! If you removed the stainless rod for cleaning and lubrication, you may have to fit that back into the hull before you put in the chain plate. To properly orient the rod, the longer threaded portion goes down with the shorter threaded portion screwing into the pin at the chain plate. On all but the forward plates, it will be necessary to install the pin BEFORE the deck bolts, i.e., during reassembly when the plate is covered with sealant. If you fail to do this, you’ll have to pull a bolt to allow the pin to slip in place after assembly, ruining the seal around that bolt. Dry fit the entire assembly before you add the sealant—you’re less likely to make a messy mistake.<br />
<br />
To re-bed, a liberal coating of sealant should be applied to the top of the plate as well as the area around the weld. The goal is to fill the hole in the deck from the bottom up to ensure an adequate seal. Ensure that you’ve removed the cushions and put down adequate drop cloths or plastic as there will be quite a bit of sealant that is squeezed out during assembly. It will take an entire tube of sealant to properly bed all six plates. It’s worth having an extra on hand to ensure that you don’t run out with half a plate covered in wet sealant. The plates can be installed by one person if you work carefully as you can get adequate access through the open port lights. If you are working alone, it’s easier if you replace the screws with hex head bolts, since it’s much easier to hold on to a wrench than a screwdriver with your arm extended through the open port light. It’s also easier to put the final torque on the nut after the sealant has dried without turning the bolt if you can use a wrench to hold it in place instead of a screw driver. <br />
<br />
[[image:chainPlateRepair21.jpg|thumb|300px|Tool used to pull chain plate into place with sealant through the deck. The wing nut is loosened to allow the eye bolt to extend and a nylon zip tie is slipped in place through the hole in the chain plate. The zip tie is then pulled tight and the wing nut fastened to pull the plate into place. There is sufficient room to then insert the bolts from above.]]<br />
To re-install the plates, the first step after dry assembly and fit check is to apply a thick bead of sealant to the bolts under the head and fender washer. The standard washers installed by the factory should be replaced with fender washers to distribute the load over a greater deck area, minimizing chances of compression damage. Some sealant should also be applied to the bolt hole itself. The bolts should then be pressed into place through the deck. Ensure that the nuts are readily available, and insert the plate from below with the bolts protruding through the holes. You can then slide a lock washer into place and hand tighten the nuts while pushing down on the bolt heads from above. Alternatively, you can build an inexpensive tool to pull the chain plate into place using a wing nut and a nylon zip tie. <br />
<br />
As with any bedding job, the sealant should be allowed to cure before applying final torque to the bolts. Clean up the mess below and attach the threaded rod to the pin in the chain plate. Slip the angle washer into place as well as the lock nuts, and tighten the nut at the base of the rod hand tight. You should then re-attach the turn buckle toggle to the chain plate. Hand tighten the turnbuckle and then return below to tighten the nut at the base of the rod sufficiently to compress the lock washers—this constitutes “just snug” which is the proper torque specification. You can then put a couple of additional turns on the turn buckle to tension the rig. The sealant should cure with the rig under tension. <br />
<br />
There are several good techniques for masking when bedding deck hardware, but this is complicated if you have an older bolt with textured deck under the fittings. Newer boats have no non-skid molded into the deck area around the chain plates. If bedding over non-skid, the easiest way to clean excess sealant is to simply allow it to ooze out, and then cut it off with a razor blade after it has cured. If you are using polysulfide, you can clean things up easily after it has cured with a small stainless steel brush. Polyurethane and silicone are a bit more challenging and some effort should be made to remove excess when wet and masking will definitely help. <br />
<br />
Ensure that adequate time is allowed before you put final tension on the rig and sail the boat. Polysulfide should be given a minimum of one week to cure during warm temperatures and at least 14 days during cooler temperatures. The pictures below illustrate the chain plate installation steps.<br />
<br />
===Step-by-step installation photos===<br />
<gallery perrow=2 widths=300px heights=220px><br />
image:chainPlateRepair22.jpg|Repaired deck ready for chain plate installation. Ensure all surfaces are completely clean and wiped down with acetone or a similar solvent before applying bedding compound.<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair23.jpg|Positioning the chain plate “puller” and nylon zip tie used to secure the plate to the eyebolt<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair24.jpg|Applying the bedding compound to the chain plate. The goal is to force the bedding up from the bottom, so be sure to put plenty at the base of the plate.<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair25.jpg|Securing the chain plate with the zip tie. This can be done with one hand when working carefully. Ensure you slide the end of the zip tie up through the hole so it doesn’t become stuck when you try to pull the plate. [Ed. note: if the "puller tool" had a hook or an "opened eye" verses a closed eye-bolt, then the zip-tie loop could be closed before the chainplate was raised into position. Then feed the loop up through the hole and slip it over the hook.] <br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair26.jpg|Tighten zip tie and eye bolt to pull plate up to deck. <br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair27.jpg|Plate held in place. Note that pin is fitted at this time since it may not be possible to slide it past the bolts once they are inserted. <br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair28.jpg|Prepping the bolts with bedding compound prior to inserting. Note the use of over-sized fender washers to better spread the bolt load to the deck. <br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair29.jpg|Bolts inserted from above the deck. Bedding compound is simply allowed to ooze out. It will be trimmed off with a razor after it has set. <br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair30.jpg|Lock washers and nuts hand tightened, plus one half turn with the wrench. Do not compress the lock washers until the bedding compound has partially cured.<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair31.jpg|Coat the end of the tie rod with Lanicote and thread into place. Note that the top of the rod just protrudes above the pin. Ensure a minimum of one thread is visible when assembling.<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair32.jpg|Attach the nut to the base of the tie rod. Ensure that the thick aluminum “washer” is properly oriented. Assembly is hand tight at this point. It will be tightened to “just snug” once the bolts holding the plate have received their final tightening after the bedding has partially cured.<br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair33.jpg|Installed plate and cover. The excess polysulfide bedding is easily removed with a razor blade after it has cured. <br />
<br />
image:chainPlateRepair34.jpg|Interior view of finished chain plate after excess polysulfide has been cleaned up, post cure.<br />
<br />
</gallery></div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals&diff=4645Manuals2012-11-28T00:40:39Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''C34 Manuals'''<br />
<br />
The copyright for all manuals remains with the original author(s) and publisher. <br />
Please respect those copyright(s).<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf MkI Owners Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/c34-mkII-owners-manual.pdf MkII Owners Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/c34-inmast-furling.pdf In Mast Furling Manual]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Engine Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Operators-Manual-1of2.pdf Universal M25xpb, M35b Operators manual part 1]<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Operators-Manual-2of2.pdf part 2]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/ServiceManual.pdf M25 Service Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Hurth_HB_Transmission_Manual.pdf Hurth Transmission]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Parts-List-1of2.pdf M25xpb Parts List part 1]<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Parts-List-2of2.pdf M25xpb Parts List Part 2]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/KubotaParts-D950.pdf Kubota D950 (M25XP) Tractor engine no marine parts manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/ Universal M25xp manual]<br />
<br />
Westerbeke/Universal now has the owner manuals online. You can download them at http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/OnlineManuals.aspx<br />
<br />
'''Misc Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Maxwell%20_500VW_Manual.pdf Maxwell 500 Windlass Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/S024.pdf Teleflex Tach manual part 1][http://www.c34.org/manuals/so24cor.pdf Teleflex Tach manual part 2]<br />
<br />
[[Richie Compass Compensation]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/on-line-shop-manuals-8758.html List and Links to various on line manuals from Cruising world forum]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ganssle.com/jack/st4000.pdf Raymarine ST4000 Autopilot manual]<br />
<br />
[http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=99649 Wood and Fiberglass repair techniques]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/wiki/images/b/b9/AutoMac20_Manual.pdf Spa Creek Alternator Controller (AutoMac) Manual]<br />
<br />
*[[Hood Sea Furl 3250 Parts Diagram]]<br />
<br />
[http://l-36.com/data.php?menu=3 Misc Technical Manuals]<br />
<br />
[http://l-36.com/manuals.php?menu=4 over 40 Manuals, Electronics, Stoves, Engines, etc]<br />
<br />
'''Head, Waste System Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/JabscoTwistLockToilet.pdf Jabsco Twist-Lock Manual Toilet]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/29200_electric_conversion.pdf Jabsco Electric Head Conversion Kit]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Water System Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/1_Liter__accumulator_tank.pdf Jabsco 1 Liter Accumulator Tank Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/8_Liter_accumulator_tank.pdf Jabsco 8 Liter Accumulator Tank Manual]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=4644Diesel Engine2012-11-26T18:35:56Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Just a little info here; so, please add your own more comprehensive overview and maintenance article here)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
* Exhaust Hose Replacement with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.0.html<br />
* Rebuilding an OBERDORFER Raw Water Pump with Flix http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html<br />
* HEAT EXCHANGER SOURCES and Replacement Bracket and Exchanger with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6920.0.html<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners by Stu Jackson'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
Engine Harness Upgrade from Maine Sail http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade and http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/manuals/ZF_Hurth_Repair_manual.pdf Transmissions:Hurth Repair Manual PDF file]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
KUBOTA equivalent parts http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,978.0.html<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]<br />
Westerbeke/Universal now has the owner manuals online. You can download them at http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/OnlineManuals.aspx</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Leaks&diff=4638Leaks2012-10-10T15:44:38Z<p>Stu jackson: /* Rebedding */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Bildge==<br />
*[[Persistent Water in the Bilge|Diagnosing water in the bilge]]<br />
<br />
==Hull==<br />
*[[Leaking Beckson Ports |Beckson Ports]]<br/><br />
*[[Lewmar Leaks|Lewmar Ports]]<br/><br />
*[[Water in the Boom]]<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Advice_on_Replacing_the_Oil_Pan Oil pan replacement project] to fix leaking oil Pan]<br><br />
*[[Rust Streaks|Rust on Rudder]]<br/><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing Stuffing Box]<br />
<br />
==Rebedding==<br />
*[[Rebedding Beckson Ports| Ports]]<br/><br />
*[[Rebedding Chain plates| Chain Plates]]<br/><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Rebedding_teak Teak]<br />
*[[Sealant Types]]<br />
Main hatch and sprayhood - teak removal with Flix (thanks to Mike MacDonald - link to Message Board post) http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7191.0.html<br />
<br />
==Items of Interest==<br />
There are over 20 [http://c34.org/tech-notes-index/index.htm Tech Notes] on this subject<br></div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=4637Diesel Engine2012-09-26T16:09:23Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Just a little info here; so, please add your own more comprehensive overview and maintenance article here)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
* Exhaust Hose Replacement with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.0.html<br />
* Rebuilding an OBERDORFER Raw Water Pump with Flix http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html<br />
* HEAT EXCHANGER SOURCES and Replacement Bracket and Exchanger with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6920.0.html<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners by Stu Jackson'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
Engine Harness Upgrade from Maine Sail http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade and http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/manuals/ZF_Hurth_Repair_manual.pdf Transmissions:Hurth Repair Manual PDF file]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
KUBOTA equivalent parts http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,978.0.html<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22&diff=4633M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit "B/M 256891"2012-08-08T19:11:42Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>{|<br />
|If for some reason you haven't changed to the new alternator bracket on your older (1986, early 1987) M25 21 hp Universal diesel engines, DO SO IMMEDIATELY.<br />
<br />
I learned the hard way yesterday. I'd bought the retrofit kit from Universal a year ago, and was going to do it "soon." I'd just motored over to a friend's dock for a visit, less than 5 minutes away from our slip. When my friend used the head, he came back and said, "Houston, we have a problem!" He'd noticed oil dripping from the underside of the alternator access door onto the head sole. When we took off the stairs to expose the engine, the old "over the top" alternator bracket had sheared, the alternator was lying back to port dangling from the old fan belt, and there was oil everywhere. As it disintegrated the bracket and alternator had clobbered the oil filter, which spouted oil onto the fan belt and blew it all over the engine compartment. It also nicked the fresh water cooling hose. The oil filter kept the alternator from slamming into the casing of the engine.<br />
I got out the new bracket kit, and with generous help from two friends, I removed the old parts, and fitted in the new "underneath" bracket in about three hours. <br />
<br />
Most of the time was spent adjusting the hose clamps on the new fresh water line which goes under the new bracket, since there is only a very small amount of clearance between it and the top of the oil filter. I also had to use a rubber bicycle tube with a hose clamp as a patch over the dinged fresh water hose, which, of course, was within a half inch of the end of the hose on the new copper elbow. Also, we had to drop the alternator again to move the alternator ground wire further back to one of the other studs since the wire was in the way when it was replaced on its old stud.<br />
<br />
October 2011 - From E. Herlihy an O'Day 35 owner: Last November (2010) I installed the upgraded Alternator mounting bracket, with the kit available through Torrensen Marine, and while I was at it I installed a new Leece-Nevile / Prestolite 90 amp alternator on my Universal M25. If you are reading this far, you probably know that the new alternator uses EXACTLY the same housing as the old 55 amp Motorola. BTW the kit is now ~$180.00 When I opened the box containing the kit, I was happy to see that it included all the parts, including the Alternator mounting bolts. I did the installation using the new bolts, but noticed that they did not seem to fit perfectly. The SAE Grade 5 pivot bolt allowed "a little" play of the alternator, and the tension bolt never seemed to fit "right." At the time I assumed that the alternator was machined so that the bolt would jam, thus preventing the bolt from loosening. The real reason is embarrassing....<br />
<br />
I thought it strange that both of these bolts, and the nut were SAE.<br />
031555 - 5/16NC x 1<br />
031615 - 3/8NC x 3-1/2<br />
031762 - Nut 3/8-16 Hex Steel Zinc<br />
<br />
However, EVERY other fastener is Metric. I assumed that Torrensen would know and include the correct bolts, however the extra play was because the bolts did not fit... you know what happens when you ass-u-me... The Pivot bolt SHOULD BE a Metric M10 fastener. The tension bolt (connects the tension arm and the alternator) SHOULD BE a Metric M8 coarse thread. I realized this because I was getting a little belt dust on the engine. After only 50 hours this summer, I thought that was unusual, or I would need to buy a lot of belts. In October of this year (2011), I checked the alternator tension, and the "little" play seemed a "little" worse than it should have...<br />
<br />
Because by now I had stripped some of the threads with the bolt that was included with the kit, I purchased a slightly longer bolt, a nut, and lock washer to use as a tension bolt. I also replaced the pivot bolt with a slightly longer M10 Fine thread bolt. It fit perfectly (no play at all). I used 2 nuts and a spring washer to jam the pivot bolt, so that it will not vibrate loose. I can't speak to the kit available through Catalina Direct, but the Torrensen kit has the wrong bolts!<br />
<br />
Lesson 1: If the components in the "kit" don't seem right to you, they are not.<br />
Lesson 2: DO NOT USE THE ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BOLTS INCLUDED IN THE TORRENSEN KIT if they are SAE, and you have a Leece-Neville or Motorola Alternator. <br />
<br />
PICTURES of the different bolts are now on the C34 Forum, and include the bolts to use with pictures: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5127.0.html [8/8/2012]<br />
<br />
==Lessons Learned:==<br />
<br />
# If you haven't, replace the older style bracket TODAY. It'll give NO NOTICE of failure: it will just GO! I was fortunate that I had all the spare parts including the bracket kit, spare oil filter, bicycle tire for water hose patch, extra hose clamps and all the tools. Also was very helpful to have assistance. Once you get your hands oily (with or without gloves) you need a lot of help getting things you need without trashing the cabin.<br />
# One of the tricky parts is installing the hose and its new clamp underneath to provide clearance for the alternator and making sure you position the hose clamp to permit access to the screw for future tightening and checking.<br />
# The existing studs on the fresh water reservoir were just fine. The retrofit kit comes with new studs, but I didn't have to replace them.<br />
# Put the new belt on before you pop the alternator into place with the new adjusting bracket. The kit comes with two new fan belts. They're shorter than the original ones.<br />
# It's a heck of a way to do an oil change AND replace the antifreeze!<br />
# The recent List contributions about plugging the hole between the bottom of the engine compartment and the bilge leave me inclined to recommend keeping the hole, rather than plugging it. While I've got a mess in the bilge to clean up, if the oil and antifreeze hadn't gone into the bilge, it would have filled up the engine pan and spilled over into the cabin, the head, and probably back into the area underneath the aft cabin - not as easy to clean as the contained mess in the bilge.<br />
# The Alternator belt tensioner flix are here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3667.0.html<br />
Stu Jackson, ''[[Aquavite]]'' #224, San Francisco<br />
|<br />
<gallery caption="Click on any picture to enlarge" widths="100px" heights="100px" perrow="2"><br />
image:altold-bracket.jpg|Old Bracket still in place<br />
image:oil-bilge.jpg|Bracket "Broke" and Out Came the Oil!<br />
image:altold-broken.jpg|Broken parts<br />
image:altnew-kit.jpg|M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit<br />
image:altnew-bracket2.jpg|Close-up of New Bracket<br />
image:altnew-bracket.jpg|New bracket Installed<br />
</gallery><br />
Pictures by Stu Jackson, ''Aquavite'' #224<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Message Board Q&A on the alternator bracket upgrade==<br />
====Identifying if your alternator mount needs replacement====<br />
In the recent copy of mainsheet mentioned upgrading the alternator bracket. I'm not sure mine was ever done, although it hasn't presented any problems yet. I ordered the past tech notes collection, and read the article on the bracket. Unfortunately, the copy quality of the pictures that show the old and new bracket are not good. I wondered if you had a better copy if you could send, or a description that would help me determine if I have the old or new? <br />
Dave, Confetti #287, White Lake (Lake Michigan)<br />
<br />
----<br />
Most of us who have read the last several issues of Mainsheet know that the alternator bracket on the Universal Model 25 diesel engine can fail, which can crack the valve cover, resulting in a loss of engine lubricating oil. The manufacturer changed the bracket during 1987, and the current C34 production incorporates the improved engine, although dealers still have some boats with the uncorrected engine. The correct bracket uses an adjustment arm below the alternator. Factory supplied engines will also have "Model 25 XP" affixed to the top of the coolant reservoir. The old arrangement, which is likely to fail in time, has the adjusting arm above the alternator. By the way, the manufacturer does not acknowledge this as a problem, and requires about $115 for the upgrade kit. (NOTE: I paid $95.00 for mine in 1998. It's worth every penny!) Herb Schneider, ''former C34IA Tech Editor''<br />
<br />
----<br />
Stu, Also read your message to Al on the saga of your bracket replacement. Let me give you a couple of thoughts. First the best chafe guard that I've found for around that metal tube that carries coolant above the oil filter is a piece of 1" ribbed black plastic hose (at any marine store -- el cheapo stuff). All you have to do is cut a piece the length that you need and then slice it lengthwise to slip it on where you want chafe guard.<br />
The shortest filter that I've found (which I also use) is a Kubota 70000-15241. See the May & Aug 96 issues of Mainsheet for more filter #'s and important discussion. As far as the oil filters the Kabota 70000-15241 was only 1/4" longer than the miniature Fram filters. What I didn't like about the miniature Fram filter was the diameter. It only seated on a small portion of the facing surface of the engine. I also question how much filter material was really in there because of the smaller diameter. Can't remember if it had a clogged filter bypass or not, but don't think it had an anti-drain back valve. Your engine -- your choice.<br />
<br />
Another thought. I changed my belt from a 3/8 #395 to a 7/16 #400 which is a "tad" larger & LONGER. If you have trouble and have the space toward the alternator door try a #405 length belt. <br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788<br />
<br />
==Belt tensioning==<br />
As far as belt tensioning - in the dark ages they use a mallet or pry bar. If you go to an auto parts store you can buy a "belt tensioning" tool. It's like a turnbuckle with a left & right thread at a whooping cost of $6-$8! Screw it out till you get the correct tension then tighten the alternator retaining nuts. Easy as pie. Then screw the tool off. Meant to put this in the Mainsheet as a tip.<br />
<br />
Don't overtension or you'll be buying a new internal water pump. To get better alternator spacing maybe a washer might help. I replaced all the bracket bolts with longer ones as the holes were threaded all the way thru. I also recommend that alternator upgrades be limited to 90 amp for side loading and spacing.<br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788 <br />
----<br />
Although my boat is newer and has a MP-25XP engine with the bracket below, I wore out two 7/16" wide Gates heavy duty belts on my new Balmar 100 alternator in less than 500 rpm. It was impossible for me to keep adequate tension on the belts. To adjust the tension one must loosen the alternator bracket and the alternator mounting bolt, pull the alternator back and tighten the alternator bolt while keeping tension on the alternator and then tighten the bracket. Having done this several times during a passage while burning hands and arms and having to shut down the engine. I figured there must be an easier way to add tension to the belt and keep it there. I added a turnbuckle between the alternator bolt and the support beam of the engine. The only thing I was afraid of is that by pushing the alternator out, one also pushes on the engine and one could mess up the engine alignment. I have not done this yet, but I really want to. What are your thoughts about this? What size turnbuckle did you use, and how did you mount it?<br />
Looking forward to seeing your response or anybody else.<br />
Leo Missler, ''Dutch Lion'' C34 #1183 (1992)<br />
----<br />
I did this on the advice of my mechanic who has lots of experience but obviously is not perfect. We did it upon packing up Puff prior to putting her on the hard for the summer (Florida), so I don't have lots of experience with the turnbuckle.<br />
However, I used a 3/8" turnbuckle a shorter one. Pressed a nut into the eye of one end and then a couple of big washers and then bolted all that to the port side of the alternator.<br />
Screwed in a eye bolt to the engine mount platform and repeated the process on that end. Also put another nut on so I could "lock" it in by running it up against the tube.<br />
Wasn't brain surgery and seems to be very solid. It is not on tight enough to change the alignment, I think. It could be a problem if the engine vibrates and the platform doesn't but we will see.<br />
It will be a year before I actually try it.<br />
Frank, ''Puff'' #691 <br />
<br />
----<br />
Just a thought about belt tension and the XP-25.<br />
If you are just having problems putting normal tension on the belt, then the turnbuckle solution would be ok especially if you relaxed the turnbuckle after tightening up the adjusting bolts on the alt. bracket. Flex mounts are supposed to do just that. I would think that sooner or later the tension of the turnbuckle would either pull things out of alignment or transfer noise and vibration into the engine bed. If you are trying to provide more than "normal" tension then please check out below and confirm this information for yourself.<br />
When I was researching putting a high output alternator on "Family Affair" a tech at Maryville Marine, the Universal representative said that they didn't recommend beyond the factory belt tension settings because the front bearing and seal will not put up with a lot of side stress. It seems that the front crank pulley is pretty far in front of the actual front bearing on the block. Belt tension therefore has a lot of mechanical advantage. Much more so than if the crank bearing was right behind the pulley. That front housing is aluminum and full of timing gears. The crank bearing is way back (aft) behind them. Their suggested solution was to add an additional pulley (making 2 belts) on any alternator 100amp or above. They then say you can pull about 5hp off of the stock front pulley. They have the kits available on special order.<br />
Ken Dickson, ''Family Affair'' C34 #876</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Catalina_34_Electrical_System_Upgrade&diff=4632Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade2012-07-28T03:17:55Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jim Moe ''[[Windseeker]]'''''<br />
<br />
[Now includes changes to the Echo Charger wiring that moved from the switch to the individual banks (Stu October 2009)]<br />
NEW wiring diagram by Walt Tunnessen March 2010 <br />
VERY IMPORTANT MODIFICATION discussed here on the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6225.0.html<br />
<br />
If you use an ECHO CHARGER, please be aware of important wiring information that is NOT included in the installation manual, thanks to Maine Sail: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/electrical-systems/72295-xantrex-echo-charger-rant.html<br />
<br />
Please Note that this upgrade can also be accomplished while keeping the single 1-2-B switch with a minor change in wiring. Please see the text at the end of this article. The advantage of keeping the 1-2-B switch is that you can use the "B" position of the switch to parallel the batteries for charging and save money by not having to buy an echo charger, duo charger or combiner. Yes, it's a manual operation, but so is starting your engine!!!! And, since the AO goes directly to the house bank, you can even turn the 1-2-B switch OFF with the engine running and not have any problems. Stu, April 2010<br />
<br />
You MUST remove the short wire between the alternator and the starter when you make this upgrade to make the 1-2-B switch a "use" switch instead of a "charge" switch. There is a lot of information in the Electrical 101 Topic on the Message Board, see the "101 Topics" sticky.<br />
<br />
Bernd of Karista in Florida has provided ANOTHER source for replacement alternators. See the Message Board here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5686.0.html [Stu June 2010] It also notes that the B2 shorepower connection is NOT required with the echo charger.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
The stock Catalina 34 dc power system in earlier boats was designed for minimal house loads and definitely not for extended cruising. Consequently, two similar deep cycle batteries were provided (typically Group 24 or 27) for both house loads and engine starting. This arrangement resulted in several issues for today’s typical loads of refrigeration, lighting, instrumentation, appliances and 115 Volt inverters. Additionally, really only one of the two batteries could safely be used for house loads since the second one always should be reserved for engine starting. This is a common arrangement and typical of many stock sailboats even today. <br />
<br />
The stock alternators on most earlier Catalinas are 55 Amp units with internal automotive type regulators. These are designed to replace energy used in starting, support electrical loads while the engine is running and maintain or “float” the battery. They are not designed to, nor will they efficiently, recharge a large, discharged deep cycle battery. Thus even running the engine while cruising or at anchor will not recharge a discharged house battery in any reasonable length of time nor will it provide the electrical energy typically required for extended cruising. <br />
<br />
With the original wiring, the battery switch had to be placed on “Both” or a battery isolator installed to charge both batteries with the alternator. Using the battery switch in this manner at times resulted in forgetting it in the “Both” position when the engine was shut down, thus discharging both batteries and having a dead engine. A battery isolator intended to correct this inserted a voltage drop of around 0.7 Volts between the alternator and each battery which effectively prevented the alternator from recharging depleted batteries to more than 60-70% of capacity regardless of how long the charging continued.. <br />
<br />
The battery cables provided in these boats are very long due to the battery location relative to the battery switch and engine. This, and the small wire size (#4), significantly reduced the current available to the starter. If the battery was partially discharged, particularly in very hot or very cold weather, there often was inadequate current to start the engine. <br />
<br />
==The solution ==<br />
The solution to these problems requires several upgrades as follows:<br />
<br />
#Replacing the existing pair of similar batteries with a large house load battery bank and an isolated, smaller dedicated engine starting battery. <br />
#Replacing the alternator with a higher current equivalent along with a “smart” regulator designed to more rapidly recharge a discharged house battery. <br />
#Installing an Echo Charge unit or Battery Combiner to automatically charge both house and engine starting batteries from the alternator without incurring the voltage drop of a battery isolator and to avoid requiring the 1-2-BOTH switch to select which bank to charge. <br />
#Installing a “smart” three-stage shore power charger to rapidly recharge a discharged house battery and eliminate overcharging either battery if the charger is left on for extended periods. <br />
#Revising the DC power wiring to accomplish the above requirements and conform to current ABYC codes. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Battery Replacement==<br />
<br />
Fortunately, four deep discharge six volt golf cart batteries will just fit in the existing battery box for Mk I boats. These offer the specific characteristics required on a cruising boat, namely to supply house load power for one to three days between charges, repeatedly, over a long life span. Because they are used in large numbers for golf carts, the price is reasonable. However, they should be purchased from a local battery jobber to avoid the traditionally high marine markups and “hazardous material” shipping costs. Check the Internet for more details, availability and dealers. <br />
<br />
These six volt batteries must be connected in series-parallel to supply 12 Volts at the capacity required. Trojan brand Model T105 batteries are high quality and readily available in most locations and have become something of an industry leader in capacity, quality and life. They are rated at 225 Amp hours each so the four in a series-parallel arrangement will provide a nominal 12 Volts with 450 Amp hours compared to the 105 Amp hours of the original Group 24 battery. <br />
<br />
For later model boats originally equipped with two 4-D batteries, these can be connected in parallel providing only a slightly lower capacity house battery than the four golf cart batteries noted above. If you have a fairly new boat or new batteries, this may be the way to go. <br />
<br />
A note is necessary here regarding connecting any high-capacity lead-acid batteries in parallel. It must only be done using batteries of the same type (flooded, gel-cell or AGM). Further, batteries must have the same manufacturer, be the same model and of be essentially the same age and condition. If one battery fails internally, causing a short circuit, and the other is relatively new and fully charged, a high circulating current can occur between the two resulting in acid expulsion and overheating. If both are charged and discharged together as a pair from new, they will age similarly and avoid this problem. Thus paralleling batteries for higher capacity can be done without concern if these conditions are met. <br />
<br />
If installing the four golf cart batteries, a plywood base should be made for the existing battery box using ½" marine plywood to provide a solid base for the batteries. When installing them, two should be placed in the battery box and pushed to the stb side of the boat. Then there is space for the other two. Hold-down braces can be made using 1½" x 1½" hardwood. These should be cut so that they fit on top of the batteries and extend under the fiberglass flanges of the settee base. They can be secured with bolts extending through the fiberglass flanges and the hardwood bracing to apply downward force on the tops of the batteries. Be sure to allow access to the filler caps. Paint both base and hold-downs with at least two coats to resist any spilled battery acid. Alternative installation methods have been covered in an earlier Mainsheet Tech Note section. <br />
<br />
There is an additional hidden benefit here. Fortunately, the additional weight of the four batteries helps to offset the congenital port list present in all C34s. <br />
<br />
==Starting battery==<br />
<br />
A standard automotive or marine starting battery can be used for engine starting, but not a deep-discharge type. Starting batteries are designed to provide high starting current intermittently but will tolerate few deep-discharge cycles. A General Motors type side terminal starting battery is lower in height, fits in tight places and has protected terminals. Since the Universal diesel is small compared to automotive engines, the smallest size battery you can get will be adequate.<br />
<br />
A good location is under the aft cabin bed under the forward removable cover since this allows short cable runs and is away from the heat of the engine. However, it could be mounted in other locations as well. If the total cable run (total of positive and negative wires) exceeds 15' it would be best to use #1 cable rather than the #2 shown on the schematic. <br />
<br />
Cut a plywood base for the battery and shape two wedges to conform to the hull of the boat to support it. Use fiberglass and resin (West System epoxy is best) to tab the wedges to the hull. Again, paint both the wedges (after they are glassed in) and the base to resist acid. Automotive batteries now generally use bottom clamps for hold-downs and these can be fashioned using wood cleats to engage the flanges provided on the battery. <br />
<br />
==Alternator & Regulator ==<br />
<br />
All internally regulated automotive and marine alternators have only a “float” battery charging capability. This is accomplished by regulating the alternator output to 13.6-13.9 Volts (depending on temperature). By regulating the voltage to this level, even when charging a deeply discharged deep-cycle battery, the regulator cuts back significantly on the charging current within a few minutes of starting the engine as the battery voltage recovers to this voltage level. The regulator is designed to replace the small amount of energy used for starting and support loads while the engine is running as it is in an automobile. It is not designed to periodically recharge a discharged battery rapidly since this almost never occurs. <br />
<br />
For use on a cruising sailboat the alternator must rapidly recharge the house battery. For this it must be configured for an external, processor based three-stage “smart” regulator. The external regulator plugs into the alternator with the two-contact plug supplied with the regulator. These regulators provide a “bulk” charge for rapid recovery of the battery at a high alternator voltage of 14.1-14.3 Volts which maintains the charging current at 30-80 Amps depending upon battery condition. This continues until the battery has recovered to 75-80% capacity. They then cut back to a slightly lower voltage which results in an “acceptance” charging rate of 10-15 Amps, and then to a “float” voltage of 13.5-13.7 Volts which charges the battery at a low amperage rate when it has reached 90-95% capacity. These voltages are for flooded lead-acid batteries but are adjustable for other battery types (gel or AGM). <br />
<br />
Both Xantrex and Balmar make excellent three-stage regulators of this type for marine application. They are available from most marine equipment suppliers. It is essential to use a higher capacity alternator when using these three-stage regulators since there is no current limiting control in the system. Current is determined only by the voltage regulation of the regulator, internal resistance of the alternator and battery, and engine speed . Thus with a large, discharged house battery the charging current in the first “bulk” stage can easily be as high as 70-80 amps and the alternator must be able to handle this load. <br />
<br />
There are several high capacity alternators available from Balmar and several other suppliers which use external regulators and will fit the rather confined space in the C34 engine compartment. Because of this tight space and the single belt drive, it is necessary to limit the alternator size to 100 Amps maximum and use a “small case” alternator. The Universal engine requires a type 712-912 mount which is a single 2" long foot. If using a Balmar alternator, note that there is a clearance problem with either the stock Universal bracket arm or the one supplied by Balmar and the Balmar fan. This requires relieving the bracket arm with a file to clear the fan. <br />
<br />
A lower cost unit of this type is made by Blue Circle Auto Electric in Grand View, Wisconsin based on a Delco small case industrial engine alternator with this type mount and an external regulator. Their ordering reference for a 100 Amp unit which will replace the original Motorola unit on Universal diesel engines without any modifications is M-7102-HD. Price is $175.00 plus $11.55 S&H [as of May 2012 - Stu]. The Blue Circle phone is 888 932-2423. <br />
<br />
The alternator and water pump drive belt must be extremely heavy duty to withstand the torque of a high output alternator and a hardware store V-belt will last only hours. Get a high quality, heavy duty belt from an automotive store such as NAPA. A belt with notches on the inside is best as these provide better cooling for the belt. Alignment of the three belt pulleys is also critical with this high a belt load. This must be corrected if the pulleys are at all out of line, even if there were no problems with the stock Motorola alternator. Use a straightedge to check this after mounting the new alternator A #7390 or #7400 belt should fit. <br />
<br />
==Echo Charge or Combiner ==<br />
<br />
Manually or permanently connecting the alternator output to both the house battery and starting battery would defeat the purpose of isolating the starting battery. Use of a diode isolator, which was common practice some years ago, introduces a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery as indicated above. Since the regulator determines the state of charge of the battery by measuring the alternator voltage, this voltage drop (typically 0.7 volts) deceives the regulator and makes the battery charge level appear higher than it really is. Consequently, this will result in chronically undercharged batteries and is incompatible with any three-stage “smart” regulator. <br />
<br />
A Battery Combiner (also known by as a Pathmaker) senses the battery voltage and when it is being charged, operates a relay connecting the house battery and starting battery together. When the engine is shut down and the alternator is no longer charging, it opens the relay and isolates the batteries. This overcomes the shortcomings of the isolator. The alternator should always be connected to the house battery and the combiner connects the starting battery only when the alternator is charging. <br />
<br />
The Battery Combiner works fairly well in most applications. However, it will tend to overcharge the engine starting battery when using a high current (80 - 100 Amp) alternator and the house battery is discharged and recharged regularly, as it would be on a long cruise or at anchor with periodic engine charging. To avoid this, Xantrex developed an Echo Charge unit which uses a separate solid state regulator instead of a Combiner to charge the starting battery independently of the current and voltage being applied to the house battery. <br />
<br />
[Added by Stu 10/21/09] A few years after Jim wrote this article, he noted to me that he had MOVED the Echo Charger connections FROM the 1-2-B switch posts TO the banks themselves. The reason is a simple operational one, and is discussed in this Message Board thread, see Reply #31, [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4787.30.html]. The complete text of that change is included at the end of this article.<br />
<br />
This is desirable since the starting battery has only the short-time load of the glow plugs and starter while the house battery is routinely discharged for long periods with the engine shut down. Consequently, the charging requirements for the two batteries are totally different. The Xantrex Echo Charge unit typically limits the charging current for the starting battery to around 15 Amps maximum and cuts it back to near zero as that battery approaches full charge. This is done essentially independently of the state of charge or charging current for the house battery. <br />
<br />
Connecting the alternator directly to the house battery is a better arrangement than passing the charging circuit through a battery switch as was done in the stock Catalina wiring for several reasons. Besides the improved charging characteristics covered above, it avoids the problem of opening the charging circuit while charging heavily and damaging the alternator diodes. <br />
<br />
For further reading on high output alternators, “smart” regulators, Combiners, Echo Charge units and marine battery charging see West Marine’s “West Advisor®” write-ups in their catalog on these subjects. Also check www.amplepower.com and download their “Ample Power Primer.” <br />
<br />
==Shore Power Charger ==<br />
<br />
There has been a significant technological improvement in shore power chargers in recent years. Sophisticated voltage control and processor based three-stage charging, as covered above under alternators, have become the standard. This overcomes the tendency of the older and poorly regulated “constant voltage” chargers or ferro-resonant chargers to overcharge the batteries if left on for long periods. The newer chargers recharge discharged house batteries much more quickly while optimizing battery life. <br />
<br />
A 20 Amp charger is adequate for use with a four T105 or two D4 house battery bank and a separate starting battery. Since each of the multiple outputs is regulated independently, the charger adjusts for differences in charging current required by the two batteries. It will charge both batteries even with the battery switches off. <br />
<br />
Light, compact “switch mode” chargers are available from Xantrex (Truecharge) at reasonable prices. A convenient location for the battery charger on a C34 is on the forward bulkhead of the port cockpit locker (yes, you can get in there if you clear everything out). An additional advantage of these chargers is that they do not have the hum or buzz typical of the older units. Xantrex offers a remote indication panel which may be mounted near the C34 electrical panel. <br />
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==Wiring Revisions ==<br />
<br />
The schematic diagram shows a wiring scheme for combining the above upgrades with the existing wiring in an older Catalina 34. The four six volt golf cart batteries are shown wired in series-parallel to provide 12 volts. In later boats, the two original equipment D4 batteries may be connected in parallel for the house battery in lieu of the four golf cart batteries shown. Fuses are shown in the battery and charging leads as is now required by the ABYC code. <br />
<br />
Both the lead to the switch and the lead to the alternator must be independently fused as shown. The shore power battery charger leads must be fused as well but these fuses will generally be 30 Amps maximum so automotive style fuses and in-line fuse-holders may be used. Fuses should be located within the battery box and with the batteries located to stb, there is space on the port side of the battery box for the large fuses. A reasonably priced line of high-amperage fuses is the Blue Seas series #5000 Mega Fuses (#5001 fuse holder). <br />
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[[image:catalinaElectricalschematic.jpg|border|350px]]<br />
<br>Click to enlarge and/or download [[media:CatalinaElectricalschematic.pdf|PDF version]]<br />
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Though not shown on the wiring diagram, bus bar terminals such as Blue Seas #2106 250 Amp “Maxi Bus” may be used to combine the several leads shown connected to the battery terminals. This is also necessary if you have more than one lead going to the battery negative and are using a Link 10 or similar battery monitor which requires a shunt for current measurement and a single lead to the negative post. <br />
<br />
Only one of the existing #4 red leads from the battery box to the switch is needed. This is connected from the positive lead of the battery to position #1 of the existing switch. The other lead may be removed, left in as a spare for an inverter, or connected in parallel with the other lead to reduce voltage drop. The existing #4 black ground lead from the battery negative to the engine is used. While the voltage drop in the original #4 battery leads was excessive for routine engine starting, it is adequate for all house loads and occasional engine starting due to the increased house battery capacity and lower internal resistance. <br />
<br />
Ancor brand cables with swaged terminals for jumpers between the six volt batteries are available from many marine stores or cables may be made up as required if you have a proper sized crimper to handle #4 wire and terminals. A new #6 red wire must be run from the battery box to the alternator for charging from the alternator. This is the only new wire from the engine area to the battery box that needs to be run, assuming the shore power charger wiring is already in place. <br />
<br />
Most Catalinas used a plastic conduit for the wires from the engine to the battery box and it may be possible to get this wire in the existing conduit. If not, it should be protected with a flexible plastic 1/2" or 3/4" conduit available in the electrical department of Home Depot or similar store. The existing red #4 lead from the starter solenoid to the battery switch is used, but is removed from the common terminal of the switch and connected to position #2 of the switch. Since the starting battery is also connected to the starter solenoid, this wire effectively goes to the starting battery as well and is used both for charging and emergency starting from the house battery bank.<br />
<br />
With the revised wiring, position #1 of the battery switch is for normal operation. The switch should be left in this position at all times unless you want to isolate the house battery when the boat is unattended or for emergencies. If the switch is placed in the “Both” position, the starting and house batteries are paralleled or, if the starting battery switch is off, the house battery alone will be connected for engine starting. If the house battery is ever completely discharged, the starting battery may be used in an emergency for lighting, radio, etc. by placing the switch in the #2 position. In this case, the house battery is totally isolated. Obviously, the switch should never be placed in the “Both” or #2 positions except in emergencies as either could result in house loads inadvertently depleting the starting battery. The starting battery is connected directly to the starter solenoid terminal as it is in an automobile. <br />
<br />
A fuse and a battery switch are shown in this circuit to protect the wiring and to isolate the battery if desired. The same type fuse as used for the house battery should be located near the battery. The switch should also be located near the battery to minimize the wire run to the starter solenoid. Blue Seas #9006, BEP #700-701 or Hella #87181 switches will handle the starting current, are small and reasonably priced. The starting battery ground cable can be attached to any convenient bolt on the engine block. <br />
<br />
If a side terminal automotive battery is selected, good quality standard side terminal automotive battery cables with swaged terminals can be used. Belden brand battery cables are excellent quality and carried by all NAPA stores in various lengths with factory swaged terminals. Ancor brand cables with swaged ring terminals in several lengths are available from West Marine and other marine stores for runs from a marine starting battery with eye terminals and/or runs from fuse block to switch and switch to starter solenoid. These should be used for all the #2 and #4 jumper leads for both batteries if you don’t have access to a large crimper to make up the cables yourself. <br />
<br />
As crimped or swaged terminals for #2, #4 and #6 wire are un-insulated, all of these terminals should be sleeved with Ancor brand shrink tubing coated internally with adhesive. This will provide maximum corrosion resistance and battery acid “wicking” up the copper conductors inside the vinyl insulation. <br />
<br />
The charging circuits for the shore power charger should be connected independently to both batteries as shown. Shore power chargers with multiple battery outputs provide the required isolation between batteries and independent regulation for each battery. Leads from the positive terminals of the charger to the positive terminals of the batteries should be protected with fuses near the battery in the same manner as the positive power leads. Fuses should be rated at 150% of the charger capacity. <br />
<br />
Loads which are “always on,” such as bilge pumps, etc., as well as alternate charging systems, should be connected directly to the house battery. These may be connected either to the #1 terminal of the battery switch or directly to the positive battery terminal and each must be protected with a fuse or circuit breaker rated at 150% of the current rating of the device. If connected directly to the battery, it may be necessary to use a bus bar terminal (as indicated above for the negative battery terminal) to avoid an excessive buildup of connections on the positive battery post. <br />
<br />
==Glow plug solenoid==<br />
Though technically not a part of the overall dc power system upgrade, the schematic shows a solenoid relay for operating the engine glow plugs. If your boat is wired to operate the glow plugs directly from the ignition switch or push-button and is not already equipped with a solenoid relay in this circuit, it would be desirable to include this modification in the general electrical power upgrade. The voltage drop in the wiring harness and glow plug switch or pushbutton as provided on earlier boats significantly reduces glow plug effectivity and can cause hard starting, particularly when it’s cold. <br />
<br />
A suitable solenoid relay, Cole Hersee #24106-BP, is available from West Marine. Install it at the rear of the engine, making sure at least one of the mounting flanges is grounded to the engine. Disconnect the wire coming from the Universal harness to the rear glow plug. Connect this to the small terminal on the solenoid relay. Connect a fused #10 lead from the starter solenoid to either large terminal of the solenoid relay and another #10 lead from the other large terminal to the rear glow plug. <br />
<br />
Where it typically took 20-50 seconds previously to preheat the glow plugs with a cold engine, it should take only 8-12 seconds to preheat them after the conversion. Current Westerbeke-Universal diesel engines come equipped with this type of solenoid relay. This improvement is well described on the C34 Web site Projects page at [[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical/glowplugs glow plugs]].<br />
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'''CHANGES TO JIM MOE'S WIRING DIAGRAM - ECHO CHARGERS and WIRING CHANGES TO KEEP THE 1-2-B SWITCH'''<br />
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(from a MB topic discussion) In Reply #11, Item 3, on this topic, I mentioned that Jim Moe had CHANGED his echo charger connections FROM the 1-2-B switch connections TO the bank (+) posts. <br />
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This is a VERY IMPORTANT modification. <br />
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SEE UPDATED WIRING DIAGRAM<br />
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[[image:UPDATED_C34ElecTHUMB.jpg|border|350px]]<br />
Click this link to download the high res version [[media:UPDATED_CatalinaElectricSystem.jpg]]<br />
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In a discussion recently on co.com (see: [http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=107109]) we discussed this very issue. It is an operational, not electrical design issue. This is a copy of the pertinent ideas from that full thread. <br />
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Bob wrote: "It looks to me that if that switch [reserve bank on/off switch] was off the echo charger wouldn't be doing it's job."<br />
<br />
I replied: As Jim's wiring diagram is set up, you are completely correct. I spoke with Jim since he published this in 2004, and he noted that based on my suggestion he has moved the echo charger from as shown to the battery (+) posts as recommended by the echo charger manufacturer.<br />
<br />
The following is very IMPORTANT to understand: Since his operating concept is to turn the reserve bank switch ON when he gets on the boat and he doesn't leave it plugged in when he's away, what you point out, quite correctly, is not an issue for him if wired this way. Again, you're right: if the reserve bank switch was OFF, and wired this way, the echo charger would NOT charge the reserve bank. Period. If wired to the banks, it wouldn't matter and would always work.<br />
<br />
The co.com link also explains how you can change Jim's wiring diagram with two switches to my "preferred" single 1-2-B switch design with just two simple wiring mods. And given this link, there are way more other designs out there, too.<br />
<br />
Here's how: <br />
<br />
Here's what you CAN DO - based on Jim's diagram ONLY to change from Jim's two switch design to Stu's single 1-2-B switch design:<br />
<br />
1. Take the reserve on/off switch and throw it out (or just leave it ON)<br />
2. Conceptually: Run the reserve (+) DIRECTLY to the #2 post of the 1-2-B switch for power TO the switch and run a wire from the output "C" post of the switch to the starter solenoid<br />
<br />
To do this you need to do two things:<br />
1) Take what's shown as the "Existing #4 red" between the starter & the #2 post and MOVE it FROM the "2" post TO the "C" post of the 1-2-B switch, and leave it on the starter. This gives you power TO the starter from either bank. It also lets you parallel the banks if your echo charger fails (backup, backup, backup...)<br />
2) Run a new wire from the (+) output of the reserve bank to the #2 post of the switch, without that pesky second on/off switch. Do not run ANYTHING from the reserve bank to the starter solenoid, go only directly to the switch. (The wiring sizes are your choice.)<br />
<br />
You're done.<br />
<br />
Bob, what this does is make the 1-2-B switch THE controller for the output to the starter from either of the 2 battery banks (and, of course, to the DP).<br />
<br />
It also does exactly what I've been suggesting all along - uses the simple 1-2-B switch to control everything. It changes Jim's design to mine!!!<br />
<br />
1. The 1-2-B switch is only used for battery bank selection and output to two things; the DP and the starter (the "always on" loads can be left as shown or run directly to the house bank or other switches and fuses - your choice)<br />
<br />
2. The alternator output goes to the house bank [nowhere near the switch!!!] with a combiner, echo charger, etc. used to supply the reserve bank. Also see the discussion below about using the 1-2-B switch for that purpose.<br />
<br />
Simple, eh?<br />
<br />
The downside of "Stu's design" is that engine starting from the house bank can knock electronics off line. That's why some folks prefer having the reserve bank always start the engine.<br />
<br />
Your boat, your choice.<br />
<br />
For more thoughts on this, see: Alternator Output & Battery Switch Wiring: [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4934.0.html]<br />
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'''Option Summary:''' Either use Jim's two switch design or my preferred "Keep the 1-2-B Switch arrangement" which is:<br />
<br />
1. continue to use the 1-2-B switch<br />
<br />
2. AO direct to house bank<br />
<br />
3. each bank output to 1-2-B switch<br />
<br />
4. C post of switch to distribution panel and starter solenoid<br />
<br />
5. either use an echo charger to charge the reserve bank or use the B position on the switch - simple <br />
<br />
'''ABOUT CHANGING YOUR OEM ALTERNATOR'''<br />
<br />
You don't "HAVE TO" upgrade the alternator, because the acceptance of the battery bank will limit the current that can go into them. In most cases the original internal regulator with the stock alternator will provide enough amperage to keep your house bank between the 50% and 85% SOC quite well, albeit somewhat longer than a newer higher output alternator would. Smaller alternator, less charging, longer charging time. If, however, you're a weekend warrior, it'll make little difference. In all cases, though, there is a steadily diminishing law of input power from an alternator alone on a house bank, which is why, unless you have alternate charging sources like solar or wind, you will need to plug into shorepower at least weekly to bring your house bank up to full. Written up in most reliable electrical source books, like Calder.</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Catalina_34_Electrical_System_Upgrade&diff=4631Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade2012-07-17T15:02:42Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jim Moe ''[[Windseeker]]'''''<br />
<br />
[Now includes changes to the Echo Charger wiring that moved from the switch to the individual banks (Stu October 2009)]<br />
NEW wiring diagram by Walt Tunnessen March 2010 <br />
VERY IMPORTANT MODIFICATION discussed here on the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6225.0.html<br />
<br />
Please Note that this upgrade can also be accomplished while keeping the single 1-2-B switch with a minor change in wiring. Please see the text at the end of this article. The advantage of keeping the 1-2-B switch is that you can use the "B" position of the switch to parallel the batteries for charging and save money by not having to buy an echo charger, duo charger or combiner. Yes, it's a manual operation, but so is starting your engine!!!! And, since the AO goes directly to the house bank, you can even turn the 1-2-B switch OFF with the engine running and not have any problems. Stu, April 2010<br />
<br />
You MUST remove the short wire between the alternator and the starter when you make this upgrade to make the 1-2-B switch a "use" switch instead of a "charge" switch. There is a lot of information in the Electrical 101 Topic on the Message Board, see the "101 Topics" sticky.<br />
<br />
Bernd of Karista in Florida has provided ANOTHER source for replacement alternators. See the Message Board here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5686.0.html [Stu June 2010] It also notes that the B2 shorepower connection is NOT required with the echo charger.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
The stock Catalina 34 dc power system in earlier boats was designed for minimal house loads and definitely not for extended cruising. Consequently, two similar deep cycle batteries were provided (typically Group 24 or 27) for both house loads and engine starting. This arrangement resulted in several issues for today’s typical loads of refrigeration, lighting, instrumentation, appliances and 115 Volt inverters. Additionally, really only one of the two batteries could safely be used for house loads since the second one always should be reserved for engine starting. This is a common arrangement and typical of many stock sailboats even today. <br />
<br />
The stock alternators on most earlier Catalinas are 55 Amp units with internal automotive type regulators. These are designed to replace energy used in starting, support electrical loads while the engine is running and maintain or “float” the battery. They are not designed to, nor will they efficiently, recharge a large, discharged deep cycle battery. Thus even running the engine while cruising or at anchor will not recharge a discharged house battery in any reasonable length of time nor will it provide the electrical energy typically required for extended cruising. <br />
<br />
With the original wiring, the battery switch had to be placed on “Both” or a battery isolator installed to charge both batteries with the alternator. Using the battery switch in this manner at times resulted in forgetting it in the “Both” position when the engine was shut down, thus discharging both batteries and having a dead engine. A battery isolator intended to correct this inserted a voltage drop of around 0.7 Volts between the alternator and each battery which effectively prevented the alternator from recharging depleted batteries to more than 60-70% of capacity regardless of how long the charging continued.. <br />
<br />
The battery cables provided in these boats are very long due to the battery location relative to the battery switch and engine. This, and the small wire size (#4), significantly reduced the current available to the starter. If the battery was partially discharged, particularly in very hot or very cold weather, there often was inadequate current to start the engine. <br />
<br />
==The solution ==<br />
The solution to these problems requires several upgrades as follows:<br />
<br />
#Replacing the existing pair of similar batteries with a large house load battery bank and an isolated, smaller dedicated engine starting battery. <br />
#Replacing the alternator with a higher current equivalent along with a “smart” regulator designed to more rapidly recharge a discharged house battery. <br />
#Installing an Echo Charge unit or Battery Combiner to automatically charge both house and engine starting batteries from the alternator without incurring the voltage drop of a battery isolator and to avoid requiring the 1-2-BOTH switch to select which bank to charge. <br />
#Installing a “smart” three-stage shore power charger to rapidly recharge a discharged house battery and eliminate overcharging either battery if the charger is left on for extended periods. <br />
#Revising the DC power wiring to accomplish the above requirements and conform to current ABYC codes. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Battery Replacement==<br />
<br />
Fortunately, four deep discharge six volt golf cart batteries will just fit in the existing battery box for Mk I boats. These offer the specific characteristics required on a cruising boat, namely to supply house load power for one to three days between charges, repeatedly, over a long life span. Because they are used in large numbers for golf carts, the price is reasonable. However, they should be purchased from a local battery jobber to avoid the traditionally high marine markups and “hazardous material” shipping costs. Check the Internet for more details, availability and dealers. <br />
<br />
These six volt batteries must be connected in series-parallel to supply 12 Volts at the capacity required. Trojan brand Model T105 batteries are high quality and readily available in most locations and have become something of an industry leader in capacity, quality and life. They are rated at 225 Amp hours each so the four in a series-parallel arrangement will provide a nominal 12 Volts with 450 Amp hours compared to the 105 Amp hours of the original Group 24 battery. <br />
<br />
For later model boats originally equipped with two 4-D batteries, these can be connected in parallel providing only a slightly lower capacity house battery than the four golf cart batteries noted above. If you have a fairly new boat or new batteries, this may be the way to go. <br />
<br />
A note is necessary here regarding connecting any high-capacity lead-acid batteries in parallel. It must only be done using batteries of the same type (flooded, gel-cell or AGM). Further, batteries must have the same manufacturer, be the same model and of be essentially the same age and condition. If one battery fails internally, causing a short circuit, and the other is relatively new and fully charged, a high circulating current can occur between the two resulting in acid expulsion and overheating. If both are charged and discharged together as a pair from new, they will age similarly and avoid this problem. Thus paralleling batteries for higher capacity can be done without concern if these conditions are met. <br />
<br />
If installing the four golf cart batteries, a plywood base should be made for the existing battery box using ½" marine plywood to provide a solid base for the batteries. When installing them, two should be placed in the battery box and pushed to the stb side of the boat. Then there is space for the other two. Hold-down braces can be made using 1½" x 1½" hardwood. These should be cut so that they fit on top of the batteries and extend under the fiberglass flanges of the settee base. They can be secured with bolts extending through the fiberglass flanges and the hardwood bracing to apply downward force on the tops of the batteries. Be sure to allow access to the filler caps. Paint both base and hold-downs with at least two coats to resist any spilled battery acid. Alternative installation methods have been covered in an earlier Mainsheet Tech Note section. <br />
<br />
There is an additional hidden benefit here. Fortunately, the additional weight of the four batteries helps to offset the congenital port list present in all C34s. <br />
<br />
==Starting battery==<br />
<br />
A standard automotive or marine starting battery can be used for engine starting, but not a deep-discharge type. Starting batteries are designed to provide high starting current intermittently but will tolerate few deep-discharge cycles. A General Motors type side terminal starting battery is lower in height, fits in tight places and has protected terminals. Since the Universal diesel is small compared to automotive engines, the smallest size battery you can get will be adequate.<br />
<br />
A good location is under the aft cabin bed under the forward removable cover since this allows short cable runs and is away from the heat of the engine. However, it could be mounted in other locations as well. If the total cable run (total of positive and negative wires) exceeds 15' it would be best to use #1 cable rather than the #2 shown on the schematic. <br />
<br />
Cut a plywood base for the battery and shape two wedges to conform to the hull of the boat to support it. Use fiberglass and resin (West System epoxy is best) to tab the wedges to the hull. Again, paint both the wedges (after they are glassed in) and the base to resist acid. Automotive batteries now generally use bottom clamps for hold-downs and these can be fashioned using wood cleats to engage the flanges provided on the battery. <br />
<br />
==Alternator & Regulator ==<br />
<br />
All internally regulated automotive and marine alternators have only a “float” battery charging capability. This is accomplished by regulating the alternator output to 13.6-13.9 Volts (depending on temperature). By regulating the voltage to this level, even when charging a deeply discharged deep-cycle battery, the regulator cuts back significantly on the charging current within a few minutes of starting the engine as the battery voltage recovers to this voltage level. The regulator is designed to replace the small amount of energy used for starting and support loads while the engine is running as it is in an automobile. It is not designed to periodically recharge a discharged battery rapidly since this almost never occurs. <br />
<br />
For use on a cruising sailboat the alternator must rapidly recharge the house battery. For this it must be configured for an external, processor based three-stage “smart” regulator. The external regulator plugs into the alternator with the two-contact plug supplied with the regulator. These regulators provide a “bulk” charge for rapid recovery of the battery at a high alternator voltage of 14.1-14.3 Volts which maintains the charging current at 30-80 Amps depending upon battery condition. This continues until the battery has recovered to 75-80% capacity. They then cut back to a slightly lower voltage which results in an “acceptance” charging rate of 10-15 Amps, and then to a “float” voltage of 13.5-13.7 Volts which charges the battery at a low amperage rate when it has reached 90-95% capacity. These voltages are for flooded lead-acid batteries but are adjustable for other battery types (gel or AGM). <br />
<br />
Both Xantrex and Balmar make excellent three-stage regulators of this type for marine application. They are available from most marine equipment suppliers. It is essential to use a higher capacity alternator when using these three-stage regulators since there is no current limiting control in the system. Current is determined only by the voltage regulation of the regulator, internal resistance of the alternator and battery, and engine speed . Thus with a large, discharged house battery the charging current in the first “bulk” stage can easily be as high as 70-80 amps and the alternator must be able to handle this load. <br />
<br />
There are several high capacity alternators available from Balmar and several other suppliers which use external regulators and will fit the rather confined space in the C34 engine compartment. Because of this tight space and the single belt drive, it is necessary to limit the alternator size to 100 Amps maximum and use a “small case” alternator. The Universal engine requires a type 712-912 mount which is a single 2" long foot. If using a Balmar alternator, note that there is a clearance problem with either the stock Universal bracket arm or the one supplied by Balmar and the Balmar fan. This requires relieving the bracket arm with a file to clear the fan. <br />
<br />
A lower cost unit of this type is made by Blue Circle Auto Electric in Grand View, Wisconsin based on a Delco small case industrial engine alternator with this type mount and an external regulator. Their ordering reference for a 100 Amp unit which will replace the original Motorola unit on Universal diesel engines without any modifications is M-7102-HD. Price is $175.00 plus $11.55 S&H [as of May 2012 - Stu]. The Blue Circle phone is 888 932-2423. <br />
<br />
The alternator and water pump drive belt must be extremely heavy duty to withstand the torque of a high output alternator and a hardware store V-belt will last only hours. Get a high quality, heavy duty belt from an automotive store such as NAPA. A belt with notches on the inside is best as these provide better cooling for the belt. Alignment of the three belt pulleys is also critical with this high a belt load. This must be corrected if the pulleys are at all out of line, even if there were no problems with the stock Motorola alternator. Use a straightedge to check this after mounting the new alternator A #7390 or #7400 belt should fit. <br />
<br />
==Echo Charge or Combiner ==<br />
<br />
Manually or permanently connecting the alternator output to both the house battery and starting battery would defeat the purpose of isolating the starting battery. Use of a diode isolator, which was common practice some years ago, introduces a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery as indicated above. Since the regulator determines the state of charge of the battery by measuring the alternator voltage, this voltage drop (typically 0.7 volts) deceives the regulator and makes the battery charge level appear higher than it really is. Consequently, this will result in chronically undercharged batteries and is incompatible with any three-stage “smart” regulator. <br />
<br />
A Battery Combiner (also known by as a Pathmaker) senses the battery voltage and when it is being charged, operates a relay connecting the house battery and starting battery together. When the engine is shut down and the alternator is no longer charging, it opens the relay and isolates the batteries. This overcomes the shortcomings of the isolator. The alternator should always be connected to the house battery and the combiner connects the starting battery only when the alternator is charging. <br />
<br />
The Battery Combiner works fairly well in most applications. However, it will tend to overcharge the engine starting battery when using a high current (80 - 100 Amp) alternator and the house battery is discharged and recharged regularly, as it would be on a long cruise or at anchor with periodic engine charging. To avoid this, Xantrex developed an Echo Charge unit which uses a separate solid state regulator instead of a Combiner to charge the starting battery independently of the current and voltage being applied to the house battery. <br />
<br />
[Added by Stu 10/21/09] A few years after Jim wrote this article, he noted to me that he had MOVED the Echo Charger connections FROM the 1-2-B switch posts TO the banks themselves. The reason is a simple operational one, and is discussed in this Message Board thread, see Reply #31, [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4787.30.html]. The complete text of that change is included at the end of this article.<br />
<br />
This is desirable since the starting battery has only the short-time load of the glow plugs and starter while the house battery is routinely discharged for long periods with the engine shut down. Consequently, the charging requirements for the two batteries are totally different. The Xantrex Echo Charge unit typically limits the charging current for the starting battery to around 15 Amps maximum and cuts it back to near zero as that battery approaches full charge. This is done essentially independently of the state of charge or charging current for the house battery. <br />
<br />
Connecting the alternator directly to the house battery is a better arrangement than passing the charging circuit through a battery switch as was done in the stock Catalina wiring for several reasons. Besides the improved charging characteristics covered above, it avoids the problem of opening the charging circuit while charging heavily and damaging the alternator diodes. <br />
<br />
For further reading on high output alternators, “smart” regulators, Combiners, Echo Charge units and marine battery charging see West Marine’s “West Advisor®” write-ups in their catalog on these subjects. Also check www.amplepower.com and download their “Ample Power Primer.” <br />
<br />
==Shore Power Charger ==<br />
<br />
There has been a significant technological improvement in shore power chargers in recent years. Sophisticated voltage control and processor based three-stage charging, as covered above under alternators, have become the standard. This overcomes the tendency of the older and poorly regulated “constant voltage” chargers or ferro-resonant chargers to overcharge the batteries if left on for long periods. The newer chargers recharge discharged house batteries much more quickly while optimizing battery life. <br />
<br />
A 20 Amp charger is adequate for use with a four T105 or two D4 house battery bank and a separate starting battery. Since each of the multiple outputs is regulated independently, the charger adjusts for differences in charging current required by the two batteries. It will charge both batteries even with the battery switches off. <br />
<br />
Light, compact “switch mode” chargers are available from Xantrex (Truecharge) at reasonable prices. A convenient location for the battery charger on a C34 is on the forward bulkhead of the port cockpit locker (yes, you can get in there if you clear everything out). An additional advantage of these chargers is that they do not have the hum or buzz typical of the older units. Xantrex offers a remote indication panel which may be mounted near the C34 electrical panel. <br />
<br />
{|<br />
|<br />
==Wiring Revisions ==<br />
<br />
The schematic diagram shows a wiring scheme for combining the above upgrades with the existing wiring in an older Catalina 34. The four six volt golf cart batteries are shown wired in series-parallel to provide 12 volts. In later boats, the two original equipment D4 batteries may be connected in parallel for the house battery in lieu of the four golf cart batteries shown. Fuses are shown in the battery and charging leads as is now required by the ABYC code. <br />
<br />
Both the lead to the switch and the lead to the alternator must be independently fused as shown. The shore power battery charger leads must be fused as well but these fuses will generally be 30 Amps maximum so automotive style fuses and in-line fuse-holders may be used. Fuses should be located within the battery box and with the batteries located to stb, there is space on the port side of the battery box for the large fuses. A reasonably priced line of high-amperage fuses is the Blue Seas series #5000 Mega Fuses (#5001 fuse holder). <br />
|<br />
[[image:catalinaElectricalschematic.jpg|border|350px]]<br />
<br>Click to enlarge and/or download [[media:CatalinaElectricalschematic.pdf|PDF version]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Though not shown on the wiring diagram, bus bar terminals such as Blue Seas #2106 250 Amp “Maxi Bus” may be used to combine the several leads shown connected to the battery terminals. This is also necessary if you have more than one lead going to the battery negative and are using a Link 10 or similar battery monitor which requires a shunt for current measurement and a single lead to the negative post. <br />
<br />
Only one of the existing #4 red leads from the battery box to the switch is needed. This is connected from the positive lead of the battery to position #1 of the existing switch. The other lead may be removed, left in as a spare for an inverter, or connected in parallel with the other lead to reduce voltage drop. The existing #4 black ground lead from the battery negative to the engine is used. While the voltage drop in the original #4 battery leads was excessive for routine engine starting, it is adequate for all house loads and occasional engine starting due to the increased house battery capacity and lower internal resistance. <br />
<br />
Ancor brand cables with swaged terminals for jumpers between the six volt batteries are available from many marine stores or cables may be made up as required if you have a proper sized crimper to handle #4 wire and terminals. A new #6 red wire must be run from the battery box to the alternator for charging from the alternator. This is the only new wire from the engine area to the battery box that needs to be run, assuming the shore power charger wiring is already in place. <br />
<br />
Most Catalinas used a plastic conduit for the wires from the engine to the battery box and it may be possible to get this wire in the existing conduit. If not, it should be protected with a flexible plastic 1/2" or 3/4" conduit available in the electrical department of Home Depot or similar store. The existing red #4 lead from the starter solenoid to the battery switch is used, but is removed from the common terminal of the switch and connected to position #2 of the switch. Since the starting battery is also connected to the starter solenoid, this wire effectively goes to the starting battery as well and is used both for charging and emergency starting from the house battery bank.<br />
<br />
With the revised wiring, position #1 of the battery switch is for normal operation. The switch should be left in this position at all times unless you want to isolate the house battery when the boat is unattended or for emergencies. If the switch is placed in the “Both” position, the starting and house batteries are paralleled or, if the starting battery switch is off, the house battery alone will be connected for engine starting. If the house battery is ever completely discharged, the starting battery may be used in an emergency for lighting, radio, etc. by placing the switch in the #2 position. In this case, the house battery is totally isolated. Obviously, the switch should never be placed in the “Both” or #2 positions except in emergencies as either could result in house loads inadvertently depleting the starting battery. The starting battery is connected directly to the starter solenoid terminal as it is in an automobile. <br />
<br />
A fuse and a battery switch are shown in this circuit to protect the wiring and to isolate the battery if desired. The same type fuse as used for the house battery should be located near the battery. The switch should also be located near the battery to minimize the wire run to the starter solenoid. Blue Seas #9006, BEP #700-701 or Hella #87181 switches will handle the starting current, are small and reasonably priced. The starting battery ground cable can be attached to any convenient bolt on the engine block. <br />
<br />
If a side terminal automotive battery is selected, good quality standard side terminal automotive battery cables with swaged terminals can be used. Belden brand battery cables are excellent quality and carried by all NAPA stores in various lengths with factory swaged terminals. Ancor brand cables with swaged ring terminals in several lengths are available from West Marine and other marine stores for runs from a marine starting battery with eye terminals and/or runs from fuse block to switch and switch to starter solenoid. These should be used for all the #2 and #4 jumper leads for both batteries if you don’t have access to a large crimper to make up the cables yourself. <br />
<br />
As crimped or swaged terminals for #2, #4 and #6 wire are un-insulated, all of these terminals should be sleeved with Ancor brand shrink tubing coated internally with adhesive. This will provide maximum corrosion resistance and battery acid “wicking” up the copper conductors inside the vinyl insulation. <br />
<br />
The charging circuits for the shore power charger should be connected independently to both batteries as shown. Shore power chargers with multiple battery outputs provide the required isolation between batteries and independent regulation for each battery. Leads from the positive terminals of the charger to the positive terminals of the batteries should be protected with fuses near the battery in the same manner as the positive power leads. Fuses should be rated at 150% of the charger capacity. <br />
<br />
Loads which are “always on,” such as bilge pumps, etc., as well as alternate charging systems, should be connected directly to the house battery. These may be connected either to the #1 terminal of the battery switch or directly to the positive battery terminal and each must be protected with a fuse or circuit breaker rated at 150% of the current rating of the device. If connected directly to the battery, it may be necessary to use a bus bar terminal (as indicated above for the negative battery terminal) to avoid an excessive buildup of connections on the positive battery post. <br />
<br />
==Glow plug solenoid==<br />
Though technically not a part of the overall dc power system upgrade, the schematic shows a solenoid relay for operating the engine glow plugs. If your boat is wired to operate the glow plugs directly from the ignition switch or push-button and is not already equipped with a solenoid relay in this circuit, it would be desirable to include this modification in the general electrical power upgrade. The voltage drop in the wiring harness and glow plug switch or pushbutton as provided on earlier boats significantly reduces glow plug effectivity and can cause hard starting, particularly when it’s cold. <br />
<br />
A suitable solenoid relay, Cole Hersee #24106-BP, is available from West Marine. Install it at the rear of the engine, making sure at least one of the mounting flanges is grounded to the engine. Disconnect the wire coming from the Universal harness to the rear glow plug. Connect this to the small terminal on the solenoid relay. Connect a fused #10 lead from the starter solenoid to either large terminal of the solenoid relay and another #10 lead from the other large terminal to the rear glow plug. <br />
<br />
Where it typically took 20-50 seconds previously to preheat the glow plugs with a cold engine, it should take only 8-12 seconds to preheat them after the conversion. Current Westerbeke-Universal diesel engines come equipped with this type of solenoid relay. This improvement is well described on the C34 Web site Projects page at [[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical/glowplugs glow plugs]].<br />
<br />
----<br />
----<br />
<br />
'''CHANGES TO JIM MOE'S WIRING DIAGRAM - ECHO CHARGERS and WIRING CHANGES TO KEEP THE 1-2-B SWITCH'''<br />
<br />
(from a MB topic discussion) In Reply #11, Item 3, on this topic, I mentioned that Jim Moe had CHANGED his echo charger connections FROM the 1-2-B switch connections TO the bank (+) posts. <br />
<br />
This is a VERY IMPORTANT modification. <br />
<br />
SEE UPDATED WIRING DIAGRAM<br />
<br />
|<br />
[[image:UPDATED_C34ElecTHUMB.jpg|border|350px]]<br />
Click this link to download the high res version [[media:UPDATED_CatalinaElectricSystem.jpg]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
In a discussion recently on co.com (see: [http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=107109]) we discussed this very issue. It is an operational, not electrical design issue. This is a copy of the pertinent ideas from that full thread. <br />
<br />
Bob wrote: "It looks to me that if that switch [reserve bank on/off switch] was off the echo charger wouldn't be doing it's job."<br />
<br />
I replied: As Jim's wiring diagram is set up, you are completely correct. I spoke with Jim since he published this in 2004, and he noted that based on my suggestion he has moved the echo charger from as shown to the battery (+) posts as recommended by the echo charger manufacturer.<br />
<br />
The following is very IMPORTANT to understand: Since his operating concept is to turn the reserve bank switch ON when he gets on the boat and he doesn't leave it plugged in when he's away, what you point out, quite correctly, is not an issue for him if wired this way. Again, you're right: if the reserve bank switch was OFF, and wired this way, the echo charger would NOT charge the reserve bank. Period. If wired to the banks, it wouldn't matter and would always work.<br />
<br />
The co.com link also explains how you can change Jim's wiring diagram with two switches to my "preferred" single 1-2-B switch design with just two simple wiring mods. And given this link, there are way more other designs out there, too.<br />
<br />
Here's how: <br />
<br />
Here's what you CAN DO - based on Jim's diagram ONLY to change from Jim's two switch design to Stu's single 1-2-B switch design:<br />
<br />
1. Take the reserve on/off switch and throw it out (or just leave it ON)<br />
2. Conceptually: Run the reserve (+) DIRECTLY to the #2 post of the 1-2-B switch for power TO the switch and run a wire from the output "C" post of the switch to the starter solenoid<br />
<br />
To do this you need to do two things:<br />
1) Take what's shown as the "Existing #4 red" between the starter & the #2 post and MOVE it FROM the "2" post TO the "C" post of the 1-2-B switch, and leave it on the starter. This gives you power TO the starter from either bank. It also lets you parallel the banks if your echo charger fails (backup, backup, backup...)<br />
2) Run a new wire from the (+) output of the reserve bank to the #2 post of the switch, without that pesky second on/off switch. Do not run ANYTHING from the reserve bank to the starter solenoid, go only directly to the switch. (The wiring sizes are your choice.)<br />
<br />
You're done.<br />
<br />
Bob, what this does is make the 1-2-B switch THE controller for the output to the starter from either of the 2 battery banks (and, of course, to the DP).<br />
<br />
It also does exactly what I've been suggesting all along - uses the simple 1-2-B switch to control everything. It changes Jim's design to mine!!!<br />
<br />
1. The 1-2-B switch is only used for battery bank selection and output to two things; the DP and the starter (the "always on" loads can be left as shown or run directly to the house bank or other switches and fuses - your choice)<br />
<br />
2. The alternator output goes to the house bank [nowhere near the switch!!!] with a combiner, echo charger, etc. used to supply the reserve bank. Also see the discussion below about using the 1-2-B switch for that purpose.<br />
<br />
Simple, eh?<br />
<br />
The downside of "Stu's design" is that engine starting from the house bank can knock electronics off line. That's why some folks prefer having the reserve bank always start the engine.<br />
<br />
Your boat, your choice.<br />
<br />
For more thoughts on this, see: Alternator Output & Battery Switch Wiring: [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4934.0.html]<br />
<br />
'''Option Summary:''' Either use Jim's two switch design or my preferred "Keep the 1-2-B Switch arrangement" which is:<br />
<br />
1. continue to use the 1-2-B switch<br />
<br />
2. AO direct to house bank<br />
<br />
3. each bank output to 1-2-B switch<br />
<br />
4. C post of switch to distribution panel and starter solenoid<br />
<br />
5. either use an echo charger to charge the reserve bank or use the B position on the switch - simple <br />
<br />
'''ABOUT CHANGING YOUR OEM ALTERNATOR'''<br />
<br />
You don't "HAVE TO" upgrade the alternator, because the acceptance of the battery bank will limit the current that can go into them. In most cases the original internal regulator with the stock alternator will provide enough amperage to keep your house bank between the 50% and 85% SOC quite well, albeit somewhat longer than a newer higher output alternator would. Smaller alternator, less charging, longer charging time. If, however, you're a weekend warrior, it'll make little difference. In all cases, though, there is a steadily diminishing law of input power from an alternator alone on a house bank, which is why, unless you have alternate charging sources like solar or wind, you will need to plug into shorepower at least weekly to bring your house bank up to full. Written up in most reliable electrical source books, like Calder.</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals&diff=4630Manuals2012-07-16T21:19:33Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''C34 Manuals'''<br />
<br />
The copyright for all manuals remains with the original author(s) and publisher. <br />
Please respect those copyright(s).<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf MkI Owners Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/c34-mkII-owners-manual.pdf MkII Owners Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/c34-inmast-furling.pdf In Mast Furling Manual]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Engine Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Operators-Manual-1of2.pdf Universal M25xpb, M35b Operators manual part 1]<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Operators-Manual-2of2.pdf part 2]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/ServiceManual.pdf M25 Service Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Hurth_HB_Transmission_Manual.pdf Hurth Transmission]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Parts-List-1of2.pdf M25xpb Parts List part 1]<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Parts-List-2of2.pdf M25xpb Parts List Part 2]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/KubotaParts-D950.pdf Kubota D950 (M25XP) Tractor engine no marine parts manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/ Universal M25xp manual]<br />
<br />
'''Misc Manuals'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/Maxwell%20_500VW_Manual.pdf Maxwell 500 Windlass Manual]<br />
<br />
[http://www.c34.org/manuals/S024.pdf Teleflex Tach manual part 1][http://www.c34.org/manuals/so24cor.pdf Teleflex Tach manual part 2]<br />
<br />
[[Richie Compass Compensation]]<br />
<br />
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[http://www.c34.org/manuals/8_Liter_accumulator_tank.pdf Jabsco 8 Liter Accumulator Tank Manual]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing&diff=4627Stuffing box packing2012-06-27T21:57:47Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div><div style="padding: 10px; background: aqua; border: 1px solid #FFAA99; font-family: Ariel, sans-serif"><br />
<big>'''How do I install the STUFF in the stuffing box? What is a stuffing box anyway? There are several different types of packing. What kind should I use and what are the differences between them? There are a range of different sizes of material from 1/8" to 5/8". What size do I use? How do I do this? Can I do it with the boat in the water, or do I need to haul her out?'''<br />
<br />
We ALWAYS get questions that ask: "Can I do it with the boat in the water? Will it sink my boat? Answer: NO your boat won't sink. You CAN and actually SHOULD do it in the water, 'cuz if you do it on the hard, you still have to readjust it once the boat gets in the water, since the water affects the flax. Why do it twice? <br />
<br />
Ultra X, discussed in Maine Sail's article, is very good stuff, new in 2012 or thereabouts.<br />
<br />
Read on...</big><br />
</div><br />
<br />
----<br />
The stuffing box is actually the large nut on your propeller shaft between the stern tube where the shaft goes out of the boat underneath the aft cabin berth, and your transmission at the aft end of your engine. The stuffing box performs two major functions: it keeps that nasty water we float on OUT of the boat, and it lubricates the shaft as it spins inside the stuffing box itself. <br />
<br />
Catalina's C34 manual that came with your boat has a very good illustration of the stuffing box. It is a section (engineering-speak: means a cutaway type drawing, like a slice right through the middle) showing the stern tube, the black hose, the shaft, the stuffing box gland assembly (the BIG nut forward) and the smaller Locking nut aft. See pages 39 and 40, drawing 4.4.2, Chapter 4.4.3, Auxiliary Power, Shaft Packing Gland (Stuffing Box). <br />
<br />
Maine Sail has a very good photographic review on his website: [http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box] or http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=125430<br />
<br />
For most C34s you'll need 3/16 inch flax material, although that flax size has been reported to be 1/4" flax for hull # 713 (a 1988 model with a standard 1" shaft). Better check your manual. If you don't have one, just measure the distance between the edge of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box after you have backed the stuffing box off. First loosen the locking nut (it will move aft), then loosen the stuffing box (it will move forward). If you're in the water, water will now make its appearance - don't worry, it's not much. There are five different types of "regular" packing material. "Regular" means the material that is inserted in your existing stuffing box, as compared to new equipment, like the PSS Shaft Seal, which requires removal of the existing stuffing box, and replacing it with a new piece of equipment. <br />
<br />
The five types of "regular" or traditional materials are (2000 prices): <br />
#Conventional flax @ $4.29 for a two foot length<br />
#PTFE flax @ $4.19<br />
#The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit<br />
#The Goretex GFO from e-marine <br />
# Ultra X new in 2012 or so<br />
<br />
The size of the square flax material required is based on the clearance between the outside of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box, where the flax goes in. Here's the differences between the flax material: both the conventional and Teflon impregnated flax need water for lubrication, hence the need to keep the stuffing box actually "dripping", one or two drops per minute when the shaft isn't turning, and four to five when it is moving. <br />
<br />
There's been lots of discussion over the years on just how much "dripping" is required, covered in many old Mainsheet articles for Catalina 34s and others (the older C27 and C30 tech tips are also good sources). For traditional flax (NOT "dripless") the amount of water dripping is easily adjusted based on how much you tighten the stuffing box nut before you use the locking nut on the stuffing box assembly. The stuffing box nut is the bigger one that is forward on the shaft, tightening it moves it aft. Check the C34 Website, under Mainsheet Article Index, and search for packing gland and stuffing box to find those articles. The August 1990 Catalina 27 tech tips has a good article on how to install the material. Ron Hill covered it very well in May 1992 and Feb 1993. The search will detect those issues of Mainsheet that discussed the packing gland, assuming you have access to the old Mainsheets. Now that the website is up with the Tech Notes Online from Mainsheet articles (for C34IA members), you can read all of the C34 articles. <br />
<br />
This next section describes the moldable packing process. If you are using traditional, Gore or Ultra X, please ignore this section although it does include how to get the old stuff out (this was originally written around 2000). <br />
<br />
The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit works like this: First, you still need regular flax in addition to the green dripless goop that is the heart of the dripless package. It makes sense to use the Teflon, rather than conventional flax in any event, since it's both cheaper and has more inherent lubrication in the material itself. Second, there are three "rings" of flax in the stuffing box. The outer two rings are still the traditional Teflon flax, while the inner ring of normal flax is replaced with the new dripless green goop. What you do is warm up the green goop in your hand and roll it or knead it out into a thin square strand that matches the 3/16 inch square size of the regular flax. You make a piece long enough to fit around the shaft's circumference. That's easy to do by using the portion of the one inch diameter shaft forward of the stuffing box, so you end up with a piece about two inches long that'll fit around the shaft, same as the other two pieces. The magic tool to get out the old flax is a # 6 or # 8 drywall screw about 2" long. It has a very sharp point. Just push it in by hand into the old flax and screw it in with a hand screw driver. When it bottoms out, grab the head of the screw with a pair of pliers and pull it out. <br />
<br />
After removing the old flax, you install the first ring of normal flax (the forward piece), then the ring of green goop dripless material in the middle ring, then the last (aft) ring of normal flax. The regular flax should be cut at 45 degree angles. See the C34 manual's description of how to cut the flax and stagger the joints. <br />
<br />
Instead of needing to have water dripping for lubrication of the flax, you can hand tighten up the stuffing box so it doesn't drip at all, but not too tight. The final adjustment part is trial and error, covered in one of Ron Hill's Mainsheet articles. The trick is to tighten the stuffing box until water stops, but don't tighten too much. Don't tighten and then back off. Always tighten up the locking nut to the stuffing box with a wrench. <br />
<br />
The advantage with the dripless stuffing material is you don't have to think about constantly checking the drips and keeping water out of the bilge anymore, except for checking the box once in a while to make sure you didn't originally over tighten it (too much heat is the giveaway). The film can of stuff that comes with the kit is Syn-Tef lubrication which you should use anyway with any kind of flax stuffing. Install the Syn-Tef with Qtips. It's called "Dripless" because the middle ring of green goop provides the internal lubrication for the flax that the water used to provide. When you install the flax (of any kind) be sure to cut the edges at a 45 degree angle, not butted, and stagger the joints of all three rows so they do not line up. The manual shows this very clearly on the drawing. Clean the shaft with fine wet/dry sandpaper and then lightly oil it prior to tightening the packing gland. At first tighten the packing gland big nut by hand only, and be sure to tighten up the locking nut to the gland with a wrench. This locking nut keeps the gland itself from loosening. If you've used dripless packing, it should NOT drip, either at rest or with the shaft turning with the gears engaged. A tight locking nut is critical for being seaworthy. <br />
<br />
The cost of the dripless seems high at $50 instead of $4.19 plus tax, because you only use a little bit of the whole package. You could either look at it as a good long term investment that'll last 20 years (!), or share it with a dockmate or two (since the material isn't size specific like the size specific 3/16 inch traditional flax, because you knead it by hand, it'll work for anybody with a stuffing box) and reduce your investment by asking them to chip in. The natural progression seems to be from traditional (either conventional OR Teflon) stuffing material in the stuffing box, to adding the dripless green goop in the center of the three rings, and then it seems that the gang moves on to the PSS mechanical seal, which is $200. Regarding the PSS replacement solution, Ron Hill recently wrote: "There are a number of solutions out there. With a 1" shaft most of the "bellows" units like PSS will fit. You might also consider "drip free packing" which I wrote up in the May 1992 Mainsheet . I've used it since the spring of 1991 and still have it installed today (with a dry bilge). I saw it's still available at West Marine. <br />
<br />
[Added Oct. 2009 by Stu] The e-marine Goretex GFO packing is a popular alternative to the green goop. It was invented well after I originally wrote this material.<br />
<br />
[Added June 2012 by Stu] I've switched to Ultra X, I ran out of the green goop, 13 years, not too bad!!!:)<br />
<br />
Any advantage of the packing over the bellows unit? If the bellows were to break - for whatever the reason - you have a real EMERGENCY and had better find a travel lift fast. If the normal flax/dripless packing leaks all you need to do is stuff more flax /dripless packing or even stuff pieces of shoe lace/rag in the packing gland to temporally stop the leak." The swap from traditional flax to dripless can be done with the boat in the water, gets a little water in the bilge and is great fun to work around. If you're unsure about this, do it when it's out. Have the new rings cut and ready to go in if you are in the water. Actually the hardest part is getting the old packing out. Ron made a special tool, but he got it out easily and stuffed the new material in with a blunted pencil I think. I used a wire coat hanger to get the old material out. The drywall screw idea seems the best, and I've used it and a small flat screwdriver, too. The flax pullers sold in stores DO NOT work because they are too big for the opening on our boats, so don't bother buying one. Also, you'll probably notice green crud on the outside of the stuffing box. That's the equivalent of rust on the bronze material. Recently learned from an article somewhere that anhydrous lanolin will work to keep it clean, so once you clean off the "rust" apply some lanolin and it should keep the box and locking nut clean as a baby's bottom.<br />
<br />
Orig: 1999; Edited 2009</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing&diff=4626Stuffing box packing2012-06-27T19:20:16Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div><div style="padding: 10px; background: aqua; border: 1px solid #FFAA99; font-family: Ariel, sans-serif"><br />
<big>'''How do I install the STUFF in the stuffing box? What is a stuffing box anyway? There are several different types of packing. What kind should I use and what are the differences between them? There are a range of different sizes of material from 1/8" to 5/8". What size do I use? How do I do this? Can I do it with the boat in the water, or do I need to haul her out?'''<br />
<br />
We ALWAYS get questions that ask: "Can I do it with the boat in the water? Will it sink my boat? Answer: NO. You CAN and actually SHOULD do it in the water, 'cuz if you do it on the hard, you still have to readjust it once the boat gets in the water, since the water affects the flax. Why do it twice? <br />
<br />
Ultra X, discussed in Maine Sail's article, is very goo stuff, new in 2012 or thereabouts.<br />
<br />
Read on...</big><br />
</div><br />
<br />
----<br />
The stuffing box is actually the large nut on your propeller shaft between the stern tube where the shaft goes out of the boat underneath the aft cabin berth, and your transmission at the aft end of your engine. The stuffing box performs two major functions: it keeps that nasty water we float on OUT of the boat, and it lubricates the shaft as it spins inside the stuffing box itself. <br />
<br />
Catalina's C34 manual that came with your boat has a very good illustration of the stuffing box. It is a section (engineering-speak: means a cutaway type drawing, like a slice right through the middle) showing the stern tube, the black hose, the shaft, the stuffing box gland assembly (the BIG nut forward) and the smaller Locking nut aft. See pages 39 and 40, drawing 4.4.2, Chapter 4.4.3, Auxiliary Power, Shaft Packing Gland (Stuffing Box). <br />
<br />
Maine Sail has a very good photographic review on his website: [http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box] or http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=125430<br />
<br />
For most C34s you'll need 3/16 inch flax material, although that flax size has been reported to be 1/4" flax for hull # 713 (a 1988 model with a standard 1" shaft). Better check your manual. If you don't have one, just measure the distance between the edge of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box after you have backed the stuffing box off. First loosen the locking nut (it will move aft), then loosen the stuffing box (it will move forward). If you're in the water, water will now make its appearance - don't worry, it's not much. There are five different types of "regular" packing material. "Regular" means the material that is inserted in your existing stuffing box, as compared to new equipment, like the PSS Shaft Seal, which requires removal of the existing stuffing box, and replacing it with a new piece of equipment. <br />
<br />
The five types of "regular" or traditional materials are: <br />
#Conventional flax @ $4.29 for a two foot length<br />
#PTFE flax @ $4.19<br />
#The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit<br />
#The Goretex GFO from e-marine <br />
# Ultra X new in 2012 or so<br />
<br />
The size of the square flax material required is based on the clearance between the outside of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box, where the flax goes in. Here's the differences between the flax material: both the conventional and Teflon impregnated flax need water for lubrication, hence the need to keep the stuffing box actually "dripping", one or two drops per minute when the shaft isn't turning, and four to five when it is moving. <br />
<br />
There's been lots of discussion over the years on just how much "dripping" is required, covered in many old Mainsheet articles for Catalina 34s and others (the older C27 and C30 tech tips are also good sources). For traditional flax (NOT "dripless") the amount of water dripping is easily adjusted based on how much you tighten the stuffing box nut before you use the locking nut on the stuffing box assembly. The stuffing box nut is the bigger one that is forward on the shaft, tightening it moves it aft. Check the C34 Website, under Mainsheet Article Index, and search for packing gland and stuffing box to find those articles. The August 1990 Catalina 27 tech tips has a good article on how to install the material. Ron Hill covered it very well in May 1992 and Feb 1993. The search will detect those issues of Mainsheet that discussed the packing gland, assuming you have access to the old Mainsheets. Now that the website is up with the Tech Notes Online from Mainsheet articles (for C34IA members), you can read all of the C34 articles. <br />
<br />
The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit works like this: First, you still need regular flax in addition to the green dripless goop that is the heart of the dripless package. It makes sense to use the Teflon, rather than conventional flax in any event, since it's both cheaper and has more inherent lubrication in the material itself. Second, there are three "rings" of flax in the stuffing box. The outer two rings are still the traditional Teflon flax, while the inner ring of normal flax is replaced with the new dripless green goop. What you do is warm up the green goop in your hand and roll it or knead it out into a thin square strand that matches the 3/16 inch square size of the regular flax. You make a piece long enough to fit around the shaft's circumference. That's easy to do by using the portion of the one inch diameter shaft forward of the stuffing box, so you end up with a piece about two inches long that'll fit around the shaft, same as the other two pieces. The magic tool to get out the old flax is a # 6 or # 8 drywall screw about 2" long. It has a very sharp point. Just push it in by hand into the old flax and screw it in with a hand screw driver. When it bottoms out, grab the head of the screw with a pair of pliers and pull it out. <br />
<br />
After removing the old flax, you install the first ring of normal flax (the forward piece), then the ring of green goop dripless material in the middle ring, then the last (aft) ring of normal flax. The regular flax should be cut at 45 degree angles. See the C34 manual's description of how to cut the flax and stagger the joints. <br />
<br />
Instead of needing to have water dripping for lubrication of the flax, you can hand tighten up the stuffing box so it doesn't drip at all, but not too tight. The final adjustment part is trial and error, covered in one of Ron Hill's Mainsheet articles. The trick is to tighten the stuffing box until water stops, but don't tighten too much. Don't tighten and then back off. Always tighten up the locking nut to the stuffing box with a wrench. <br />
<br />
The advantage with the dripless stuffing material is you don't have to think about constantly checking the drips and keeping water out of the bilge anymore, except for checking the box once in a while to make sure you didn't originally over tighten it (too much heat is the giveaway). The film can of stuff that comes with the kit is Syn-Tef lubrication which you should use anyway with any kind of flax stuffing. Install the Syn-Tef with Qtips. It's called "Dripless" because the middle ring of green goop provides the internal lubrication for the flax that the water used to provide. When you install the flax (of any kind) be sure to cut the edges at a 45 degree angle, not butted, and stagger the joints of all three rows so they do not line up. The manual shows this very clearly on the drawing. Clean the shaft with fine wet/dry sandpaper and then lightly oil it prior to tightening the packing gland. At first tighten the packing gland big nut by hand only, and be sure to tighten up the locking nut to the gland with a wrench. This locking nut keeps the gland itself from loosening. If you've used dripless packing, it should NOT drip, either at rest or with the shaft turning with the gears engaged. A tight locking nut is critical for being seaworthy. <br />
<br />
The cost of the dripless seems high at $50 instead of $4.19 plus tax, because you only use a little bit of the whole package. You could either look at it as a good long term investment that'll last 20 years (!), or share it with a dockmate or two (since the material isn't size specific like the size specific 3/16 inch traditional flax, because you knead it by hand, it'll work for anybody with a stuffing box) and reduce your investment by asking them to chip in. The natural progression seems to be from traditional (either conventional OR Teflon) stuffing material in the stuffing box, to adding the dripless green goop in the center of the three rings, and then it seems that the gang moves on to the PSS mechanical seal, which is $200. Regarding the PSS replacement solution, Ron Hill recently wrote: "There are a number of solutions out there. With a 1" shaft most of the "bellows" units like PSS will fit. You might also consider "drip free packing" which I wrote up in the May 1992 Mainsheet . I've used it since the spring of 1991 and still have it installed today (with a dry bilge). I saw it's still available at West Marine. <br />
<br />
[Added Oct. 2009 by Stu] The e-marine Goretex GFO packing is a popular alternative to the green goop. It was invented well after I originally wrote this material.<br />
<br />
Any advantage of the packing over the bellows unit? If the bellows were to break - for whatever the reason - you have a real EMERGENCY and had better find a travel lift fast. If the normal flax/dripless packing leaks all you need to do is stuff more flax /dripless packing or even stuff pieces of shoe lace/rag in the packing gland to temporally stop the leak." The swap from traditional flax to dripless can be done with the boat in the water, gets a little water in the bilge and is great fun to work around. If you're unsure about this, do it when it's out. Have the new rings cut and ready to go in if you are in the water. Actually the hardest part is getting the old packing out. Ron made a special tool, but he got it out easily and stuffed the new material in with a blunted pencil I think. I used a wire coat hanger to get the old material out. The drywall screw idea seems the best. The flax pullers sold in stores DO NOT work because they are too big for the opening on our boats, so don't bother buying one. Also, you'll probably notice green crud on the outside of the stuffing box. That's the equivalent of rust on the bronze material. Recently learned from an article somewhere that anhydrous lanolin will work to keep it clean, so once you clean off the "rust" apply some lanolin and it should keep the box and locking nut clean as a baby's bottom.<br />
<br />
Orig: 1999; Edited 2009</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing&diff=4625Stuffing box packing2012-06-27T19:19:33Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div><div style="padding: 10px; background: aqua; border: 1px solid #FFAA99; font-family: Ariel, sans-serif"><br />
<big>'''How do I install the STUFF in the stuffing box? What is a stuffing box anyway? There are several different types of packing. What kind should I use and what are the differences between them? There are a range of different sizes of material from 1/8" to 5/8". What size do I use? How do I do this? Can I do it with the boat in the water, or do I need to haul her out?'''<br />
<br />
We ALWAYS get questions that ask: "Can I do it with the boat in the water? Will it sink my boat? Answer: NO. You CAN and actually SHOULD do it in the water, 'cuz if you do it on the hard, you still have to readjust it once the boat gets in the water, since the water affects the flax. Why do it twice? <br />
<br />
Ultra X, discussed in Maine Sail's article, is very goo stuff, new in 2012 or thereabouts.<br />
<br />
Read on...</big><br />
</div><br />
<br />
----<br />
The stuffing box is actually the large nut on your propeller shaft between the stern tube where the shaft goes out of the boat underneath the aft cabin berth, and your transmission at the aft end of your engine. The stuffing box performs two major functions: it keeps that nasty water we float on OUT of the boat, and it lubricates the shaft as it spins inside the stuffing box itself. <br />
<br />
Catalina's C34 manual that came with your boat has a very good illustration of the stuffing box. It is a section (engineering-speak: means a cutaway type drawing, like a slice right through the middle) showing the stern tube, the black hose, the shaft, the stuffing box gland assembly (the BIG nut forward) and the smaller Locking nut aft. See pages 39 and 40, drawing 4.4.2, Chapter 4.4.3, Auxiliary Power, Shaft Packing Gland (Stuffing Box). <br />
<br />
Maine Sail has a very good photographic review on his website: [http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box] or http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=125430<br />
<br />
For most C34s you'll need 3/16 inch flax material, although that flax size has been reported to be 1/4" flax for hull # 713 (a 1988 model with a standard 1" shaft). Better check your manual. If you don't have one, just measure the distance between the edge of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box after you have backed the stuffing box off. First loosen the locking nut (it will move aft), then loosen the stuffing box (it will move forward). If you're in the water, water will now make its appearance - don't worry, it's not much. There are four different types of "regular" packing material. "Regular" means the material that is inserted in your existing stuffing box, as compared to new equipment, like the PSS Shaft Seal, which requires removal of the existing stuffing box, and replacing it with a new piece of equipment. <br />
<br />
The five types of "regular" or traditional materials are: <br />
#Conventional flax @ $4.29 for a two foot length<br />
#PTFE flax @ $4.19<br />
#The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit<br />
#The Goretex GFO from e-marine <br />
# Ultra X new in 2012 or so<br />
<br />
The size of the square flax material required is based on the clearance between the outside of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box, where the flax goes in. Here's the differences between the flax material: both the conventional and Teflon impregnated flax need water for lubrication, hence the need to keep the stuffing box actually "dripping", one or two drops per minute when the shaft isn't turning, and four to five when it is moving. <br />
<br />
There's been lots of discussion over the years on just how much "dripping" is required, covered in many old Mainsheet articles for Catalina 34s and others (the older C27 and C30 tech tips are also good sources). For traditional flax (NOT "dripless") the amount of water dripping is easily adjusted based on how much you tighten the stuffing box nut before you use the locking nut on the stuffing box assembly. The stuffing box nut is the bigger one that is forward on the shaft, tightening it moves it aft. Check the C34 Website, under Mainsheet Article Index, and search for packing gland and stuffing box to find those articles. The August 1990 Catalina 27 tech tips has a good article on how to install the material. Ron Hill covered it very well in May 1992 and Feb 1993. The search will detect those issues of Mainsheet that discussed the packing gland, assuming you have access to the old Mainsheets. Now that the website is up with the Tech Notes Online from Mainsheet articles (for C34IA members), you can read all of the C34 articles. <br />
<br />
The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit works like this: First, you still need regular flax in addition to the green dripless goop that is the heart of the dripless package. It makes sense to use the Teflon, rather than conventional flax in any event, since it's both cheaper and has more inherent lubrication in the material itself. Second, there are three "rings" of flax in the stuffing box. The outer two rings are still the traditional Teflon flax, while the inner ring of normal flax is replaced with the new dripless green goop. What you do is warm up the green goop in your hand and roll it or knead it out into a thin square strand that matches the 3/16 inch square size of the regular flax. You make a piece long enough to fit around the shaft's circumference. That's easy to do by using the portion of the one inch diameter shaft forward of the stuffing box, so you end up with a piece about two inches long that'll fit around the shaft, same as the other two pieces. The magic tool to get out the old flax is a # 6 or # 8 drywall screw about 2" long. It has a very sharp point. Just push it in by hand into the old flax and screw it in with a hand screw driver. When it bottoms out, grab the head of the screw with a pair of pliers and pull it out. <br />
<br />
After removing the old flax, you install the first ring of normal flax (the forward piece), then the ring of green goop dripless material in the middle ring, then the last (aft) ring of normal flax. The regular flax should be cut at 45 degree angles. See the C34 manual's description of how to cut the flax and stagger the joints. <br />
<br />
Instead of needing to have water dripping for lubrication of the flax, you can hand tighten up the stuffing box so it doesn't drip at all, but not too tight. The final adjustment part is trial and error, covered in one of Ron Hill's Mainsheet articles. The trick is to tighten the stuffing box until water stops, but don't tighten too much. Don't tighten and then back off. Always tighten up the locking nut to the stuffing box with a wrench. <br />
<br />
The advantage with the dripless stuffing material is you don't have to think about constantly checking the drips and keeping water out of the bilge anymore, except for checking the box once in a while to make sure you didn't originally over tighten it (too much heat is the giveaway). The film can of stuff that comes with the kit is Syn-Tef lubrication which you should use anyway with any kind of flax stuffing. Install the Syn-Tef with Qtips. It's called "Dripless" because the middle ring of green goop provides the internal lubrication for the flax that the water used to provide. When you install the flax (of any kind) be sure to cut the edges at a 45 degree angle, not butted, and stagger the joints of all three rows so they do not line up. The manual shows this very clearly on the drawing. Clean the shaft with fine wet/dry sandpaper and then lightly oil it prior to tightening the packing gland. At first tighten the packing gland big nut by hand only, and be sure to tighten up the locking nut to the gland with a wrench. This locking nut keeps the gland itself from loosening. If you've used dripless packing, it should NOT drip, either at rest or with the shaft turning with the gears engaged. A tight locking nut is critical for being seaworthy. <br />
<br />
The cost of the dripless seems high at $50 instead of $4.19 plus tax, because you only use a little bit of the whole package. You could either look at it as a good long term investment that'll last 20 years (!), or share it with a dockmate or two (since the material isn't size specific like the size specific 3/16 inch traditional flax, because you knead it by hand, it'll work for anybody with a stuffing box) and reduce your investment by asking them to chip in. The natural progression seems to be from traditional (either conventional OR Teflon) stuffing material in the stuffing box, to adding the dripless green goop in the center of the three rings, and then it seems that the gang moves on to the PSS mechanical seal, which is $200. Regarding the PSS replacement solution, Ron Hill recently wrote: "There are a number of solutions out there. With a 1" shaft most of the "bellows" units like PSS will fit. You might also consider "drip free packing" which I wrote up in the May 1992 Mainsheet . I've used it since the spring of 1991 and still have it installed today (with a dry bilge). I saw it's still available at West Marine. <br />
<br />
[Added Oct. 2009 by Stu] The e-marine Goretex GFO packing is a popular alternative to the green goop. It was invented well after I originally wrote this material.<br />
<br />
Any advantage of the packing over the bellows unit? If the bellows were to break - for whatever the reason - you have a real EMERGENCY and had better find a travel lift fast. If the normal flax/dripless packing leaks all you need to do is stuff more flax /dripless packing or even stuff pieces of shoe lace/rag in the packing gland to temporally stop the leak." The swap from traditional flax to dripless can be done with the boat in the water, gets a little water in the bilge and is great fun to work around. If you're unsure about this, do it when it's out. Have the new rings cut and ready to go in if you are in the water. Actually the hardest part is getting the old packing out. Ron made a special tool, but he got it out easily and stuffed the new material in with a blunted pencil I think. I used a wire coat hanger to get the old material out. The drywall screw idea seems the best. The flax pullers sold in stores DO NOT work because they are too big for the opening on our boats, so don't bother buying one. Also, you'll probably notice green crud on the outside of the stuffing box. That's the equivalent of rust on the bronze material. Recently learned from an article somewhere that anhydrous lanolin will work to keep it clean, so once you clean off the "rust" apply some lanolin and it should keep the box and locking nut clean as a baby's bottom.<br />
<br />
Orig: 1999; Edited 2009</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing&diff=4624Stuffing box packing2012-06-27T19:18:28Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div><div style="padding: 10px; background: aqua; border: 1px solid #FFAA99; font-family: Ariel, sans-serif"><br />
<big>'''How do I install the STUFF in the stuffing box? What is a stuffing box anyway? There are several different types of packing. What kind should I use and what are the differences between them? There are a range of different sizes of material from 1/8" to 5/8". What size do I use? How do I do this? Can I do it with the boat in the water, or do I need to haul her out?'''<br />
<br />
We ALWAYS get questions that ask: "Can I do it with the boat in the water? Will it sink my boat? Answer: NO. You CAN and actually SHOULD do it in the water, 'cuz if you do it on the hard, you still have to readjust it once the boat gets in the water, since the water affects the flax. Why do it twice? <br />
<br />
Ultra X, discussed in Maine Sail's article, is very goo stuff, new in 2012 or thereabouts.<br />
<br />
Read on...</big><br />
</div><br />
<br />
----<br />
The stuffing box is actually the large nut on your propeller shaft between the stern tube where the shaft goes out of the boat underneath the aft cabin berth, and your transmission at the aft end of your engine. The stuffing box performs two major functions: it keeps that nasty water we float on OUT of the boat, and it lubricates the shaft as it spins inside the stuffing box itself. <br />
<br />
Catalina's C34 manual that came with your boat has a very good illustration of the stuffing box. It is a section (engineering-speak: means a cutaway type drawing, like a slice right through the middle) showing the stern tube, the black hose, the shaft, the stuffing box gland assembly (the BIG nut forward) and the smaller Locking nut aft. See pages 39 and 40, drawing 4.4.2, Chapter 4.4.3, Auxiliary Power, Shaft Packing Gland (Stuffing Box). <br />
<br />
Maine Sail has a very good photographic review on his website: [http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box] or http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=125430<br />
<br />
For most C34s you'll need 3/16 inch flax material, although that flax size has been reported to be 1/4" flax for hull # 713 (a 1988 model with a standard 1" shaft). Better check your manual. If you don't have one, just measure the distance between the edge of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box after you have backed the stuffing box off. First loosen the locking nut (it will move aft), then loosen the stuffing box (it will move forward). If you're in the water, water will now make its appearance - don't worry, it's not much. There are four different types of "regular" packing material. "Regular" means the material that is inserted in your existing stuffing box, as compared to new equipment, like the PSS Shaft Seal, which requires removal of the existing stuffing box, and replacing it with a new piece of equipment. <br />
<br />
The four types of "regular" or traditional materials are: <br />
#Conventional flax @ $4.29 for a two foot length<br />
#PTFE flax @ $4.19<br />
#The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit<br />
#The Goretex GFO from e-marine <br />
<br />
The size of the square flax material required is based on the clearance between the outside of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box, where the flax goes in. Here's the differences between the flax material: both the conventional and Teflon impregnated flax need water for lubrication, hence the need to keep the stuffing box actually "dripping", one or two drops per minute when the shaft isn't turning, and four to five when it is moving. <br />
<br />
There's been lots of discussion over the years on just how much "dripping" is required, covered in many old Mainsheet articles for Catalina 34s and others (the older C27 and C30 tech tips are also good sources). For traditional flax (NOT "dripless") the amount of water dripping is easily adjusted based on how much you tighten the stuffing box nut before you use the locking nut on the stuffing box assembly. The stuffing box nut is the bigger one that is forward on the shaft, tightening it moves it aft. Check the C34 Website, under Mainsheet Article Index, and search for packing gland and stuffing box to find those articles. The August 1990 Catalina 27 tech tips has a good article on how to install the material. Ron Hill covered it very well in May 1992 and Feb 1993. The search will detect those issues of Mainsheet that discussed the packing gland, assuming you have access to the old Mainsheets. Now that the website is up with the Tech Notes Online from Mainsheet articles (for C34IA members), you can read all of the C34 articles. <br />
<br />
The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit works like this: First, you still need regular flax in addition to the green dripless goop that is the heart of the dripless package. It makes sense to use the Teflon, rather than conventional flax in any event, since it's both cheaper and has more inherent lubrication in the material itself. Second, there are three "rings" of flax in the stuffing box. The outer two rings are still the traditional Teflon flax, while the inner ring of normal flax is replaced with the new dripless green goop. What you do is warm up the green goop in your hand and roll it or knead it out into a thin square strand that matches the 3/16 inch square size of the regular flax. You make a piece long enough to fit around the shaft's circumference. That's easy to do by using the portion of the one inch diameter shaft forward of the stuffing box, so you end up with a piece about two inches long that'll fit around the shaft, same as the other two pieces. The magic tool to get out the old flax is a # 6 or # 8 drywall screw about 2" long. It has a very sharp point. Just push it in by hand into the old flax and screw it in with a hand screw driver. When it bottoms out, grab the head of the screw with a pair of pliers and pull it out. <br />
<br />
After removing the old flax, you install the first ring of normal flax (the forward piece), then the ring of green goop dripless material in the middle ring, then the last (aft) ring of normal flax. The regular flax should be cut at 45 degree angles. See the C34 manual's description of how to cut the flax and stagger the joints. <br />
<br />
Instead of needing to have water dripping for lubrication of the flax, you can hand tighten up the stuffing box so it doesn't drip at all, but not too tight. The final adjustment part is trial and error, covered in one of Ron Hill's Mainsheet articles. The trick is to tighten the stuffing box until water stops, but don't tighten too much. Don't tighten and then back off. Always tighten up the locking nut to the stuffing box with a wrench. <br />
<br />
The advantage with the dripless stuffing material is you don't have to think about constantly checking the drips and keeping water out of the bilge anymore, except for checking the box once in a while to make sure you didn't originally over tighten it (too much heat is the giveaway). The film can of stuff that comes with the kit is Syn-Tef lubrication which you should use anyway with any kind of flax stuffing. Install the Syn-Tef with Qtips. It's called "Dripless" because the middle ring of green goop provides the internal lubrication for the flax that the water used to provide. When you install the flax (of any kind) be sure to cut the edges at a 45 degree angle, not butted, and stagger the joints of all three rows so they do not line up. The manual shows this very clearly on the drawing. Clean the shaft with fine wet/dry sandpaper and then lightly oil it prior to tightening the packing gland. At first tighten the packing gland big nut by hand only, and be sure to tighten up the locking nut to the gland with a wrench. This locking nut keeps the gland itself from loosening. If you've used dripless packing, it should NOT drip, either at rest or with the shaft turning with the gears engaged. A tight locking nut is critical for being seaworthy. <br />
<br />
The cost of the dripless seems high at $50 instead of $4.19 plus tax, because you only use a little bit of the whole package. You could either look at it as a good long term investment that'll last 20 years (!), or share it with a dockmate or two (since the material isn't size specific like the size specific 3/16 inch traditional flax, because you knead it by hand, it'll work for anybody with a stuffing box) and reduce your investment by asking them to chip in. The natural progression seems to be from traditional (either conventional OR Teflon) stuffing material in the stuffing box, to adding the dripless green goop in the center of the three rings, and then it seems that the gang moves on to the PSS mechanical seal, which is $200. Regarding the PSS replacement solution, Ron Hill recently wrote: "There are a number of solutions out there. With a 1" shaft most of the "bellows" units like PSS will fit. You might also consider "drip free packing" which I wrote up in the May 1992 Mainsheet . I've used it since the spring of 1991 and still have it installed today (with a dry bilge). I saw it's still available at West Marine. <br />
<br />
[Added Oct. 2009 by Stu] The e-marine Goretex GFO packing is a popular alternative to the green goop. It was invented well after I originally wrote this material.<br />
<br />
Any advantage of the packing over the bellows unit? If the bellows were to break - for whatever the reason - you have a real EMERGENCY and had better find a travel lift fast. If the normal flax/dripless packing leaks all you need to do is stuff more flax /dripless packing or even stuff pieces of shoe lace/rag in the packing gland to temporally stop the leak." The swap from traditional flax to dripless can be done with the boat in the water, gets a little water in the bilge and is great fun to work around. If you're unsure about this, do it when it's out. Have the new rings cut and ready to go in if you are in the water. Actually the hardest part is getting the old packing out. Ron made a special tool, but he got it out easily and stuffed the new material in with a blunted pencil I think. I used a wire coat hanger to get the old material out. The drywall screw idea seems the best. The flax pullers sold in stores DO NOT work because they are too big for the opening on our boats, so don't bother buying one. Also, you'll probably notice green crud on the outside of the stuffing box. That's the equivalent of rust on the bronze material. Recently learned from an article somewhere that anhydrous lanolin will work to keep it clean, so once you clean off the "rust" apply some lanolin and it should keep the box and locking nut clean as a baby's bottom.<br />
<br />
Orig: 1999; Edited 2009</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22&diff=4623M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit "B/M 256891"2012-06-27T18:40:19Z<p>Stu jackson: added pictures of different bolts</p>
<hr />
<div>{|<br />
|If for some reason you haven't changed to the new alternator bracket on your older (1986, early 1987) M25 21 hp Universal diesel engines, DO SO IMMEDIATELY.<br />
<br />
I learned the hard way yesterday. I'd bought the retrofit kit from Universal a year ago, and was going to do it "soon." I'd just motored over to a friend's dock for a visit, less than 5 minutes away from our slip. When my friend used the head, he came back and said, "Houston, we have a problem!" He'd noticed oil dripping from the underside of the alternator access door onto the head sole. When we took off the stairs to expose the engine, the old "over the top" alternator bracket had sheared, the alternator was lying back to port dangling from the old fan belt, and there was oil everywhere. As it disintegrated the bracket and alternator had clobbered the oil filter, which spouted oil onto the fan belt and blew it all over the engine compartment. It also nicked the fresh water cooling hose. The oil filter kept the alternator from slamming into the casing of the engine.<br />
I got out the new bracket kit, and with generous help from two friends, I removed the old parts, and fitted in the new "underneath" bracket in about three hours. <br />
<br />
Most of the time was spent adjusting the hose clamps on the new fresh water line which goes under the new bracket, since there is only a very small amount of clearance between it and the top of the oil filter. I also had to use a rubber bicycle tube with a hose clamp as a patch over the dinged fresh water hose, which, of course, was within a half inch of the end of the hose on the new copper elbow. Also, we had to drop the alternator again to move the alternator ground wire further back to one of the other studs since the wire was in the way when it was replaced on its old stud.<br />
<br />
October 2011 - From E. Herlihy an O'Day 35 owner: Last November (2010) I installed the upgraded Alternator mounting bracket, with the kit available through Torrensen Marine, and while I was at it I installed a new Leece-Nevile / Prestolite 90 amp alternator on my Universal M25. If you are reading this far, you probably know that the new alternator uses EXACTLY the same housing as the old 55 amp Motorola. BTW the kit is now ~$180.00 When I opened the box containing the kit, I was happy to see that it included all the parts, including the Alternator mounting bolts. I did the installation using the new bolts, but noticed that they did not seem to fit perfectly. The SAE Grade 5 pivot bolt allowed "a little" play of the alternator, and the tension bolt never seemed to fit "right." At the time I assumed that the alternator was machined so that the bolt would jam, thus preventing the bolt from loosening. The real reason is embarrassing....<br />
<br />
I thought it strange that both of these bolts, and the nut were SAE.<br />
031555 - 5/16NC x 1<br />
031615 - 3/8NC x 3-1/2<br />
031762 - Nut 3/8-16 Hex Steel Zinc<br />
<br />
However, EVERY other fastener is Metric. I assumed that Torrensen would know and include the correct bolts, however the extra play was because the bolts did not fit... you know what happens when you ass-u-me... The Pivot bolt SHOULD BE a Metric M10 fastener. The tension bolt (connects the tension arm and the alternator) SHOULD BE a Metric M8 coarse thread. I realized this because I was getting a little belt dust on the engine. After only 50 hours this summer, I thought that was unusual, or I would need to buy a lot of belts. In October of this year (2011), I checked the alternator tension, and the "little" play seemed a "little" worse than it should have...<br />
<br />
Because by now I had stripped some of the threads with the bolt that was included with the kit, I purchased a slightly longer bolt, a nut, and lock washer to use as a tension bolt. I also replaced the pivot bolt with a slightly longer M10 Fine thread bolt. It fit perfectly (no play at all). I used 2 nuts and a spring washer to jam the pivot bolt, so that it will not vibrate loose. I can't speak to the kit available through Catalina Direct, but the Torrensen kit has the wrong bolts!<br />
<br />
Lesson 1: If the components in the "kit" don't seem right to you, they are not.<br />
Lesson 2: DO NOT USE THE ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BOLTS INCLUDED IN THE TORRENSEN KIT if they are SAE, and you have a Leece-Neville or Motorola Alternator. <br />
<br />
PICTURES of the different bolts are on the C36 Forum, you have to join (free) to see the pictures, here: http://www.c36ia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1550&highlight=alternator+bolts<br />
<br />
==Lessons Learned:==<br />
<br />
# If you haven't, replace the older style bracket TODAY. It'll give NO NOTICE of failure: it will just GO! I was fortunate that I had all the spare parts including the bracket kit, spare oil filter, bicycle tire for water hose patch, extra hose clamps and all the tools. Also was very helpful to have assistance. Once you get your hands oily (with or without gloves) you need a lot of help getting things you need without trashing the cabin.<br />
# One of the tricky parts is installing the hose and its new clamp underneath to provide clearance for the alternator and making sure you position the hose clamp to permit access to the screw for future tightening and checking.<br />
# The existing studs on the fresh water reservoir were just fine. The retrofit kit comes with new studs, but I didn't have to replace them.<br />
# Put the new belt on before you pop the alternator into place with the new adjusting bracket. The kit comes with two new fan belts. They're shorter than the original ones.<br />
# It's a heck of a way to do an oil change AND replace the antifreeze!<br />
# The recent List contributions about plugging the hole between the bottom of the engine compartment and the bilge leave me inclined to recommend keeping the hole, rather than plugging it. While I've got a mess in the bilge to clean up, if the oil and antifreeze hadn't gone into the bilge, it would have filled up the engine pan and spilled over into the cabin, the head, and probably back into the area underneath the aft cabin - not as easy to clean as the contained mess in the bilge.<br />
# The Alternator belt tensioner flix are here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3667.0.html<br />
Stu Jackson, ''[[Aquavite]]'' #224, San Francisco<br />
|<br />
<gallery caption="Click on any picture to enlarge" widths="100px" heights="100px" perrow="2"><br />
image:altold-bracket.jpg|Old Bracket still in place<br />
image:oil-bilge.jpg|Bracket "Broke" and Out Came the Oil!<br />
image:altold-broken.jpg|Broken parts<br />
image:altnew-kit.jpg|M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit<br />
image:altnew-bracket2.jpg|Close-up of New Bracket<br />
image:altnew-bracket.jpg|New bracket Installed<br />
</gallery><br />
Pictures by Stu Jackson, ''Aquavite'' #224<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Message Board Q&A on the alternator bracket upgrade==<br />
====Identifying if your alternator mount needs replacement====<br />
In the recent copy of mainsheet mentioned upgrading the alternator bracket. I'm not sure mine was ever done, although it hasn't presented any problems yet. I ordered the past tech notes collection, and read the article on the bracket. Unfortunately, the copy quality of the pictures that show the old and new bracket are not good. I wondered if you had a better copy if you could send, or a description that would help me determine if I have the old or new? <br />
Dave, Confetti #287, White Lake (Lake Michigan)<br />
<br />
----<br />
Most of us who have read the last several issues of Mainsheet know that the alternator bracket on the Universal Model 25 diesel engine can fail, which can crack the valve cover, resulting in a loss of engine lubricating oil. The manufacturer changed the bracket during 1987, and the current C34 production incorporates the improved engine, although dealers still have some boats with the uncorrected engine. The correct bracket uses an adjustment arm below the alternator. Factory supplied engines will also have "Model 25 XP" affixed to the top of the coolant reservoir. The old arrangement, which is likely to fail in time, has the adjusting arm above the alternator. By the way, the manufacturer does not acknowledge this as a problem, and requires about $115 for the upgrade kit. (NOTE: I paid $95.00 for mine in 1998. It's worth every penny!) Herb Schneider, ''former C34IA Tech Editor''<br />
<br />
----<br />
Stu, Also read your message to Al on the saga of your bracket replacement. Let me give you a couple of thoughts. First the best chafe guard that I've found for around that metal tube that carries coolant above the oil filter is a piece of 1" ribbed black plastic hose (at any marine store -- el cheapo stuff). All you have to do is cut a piece the length that you need and then slice it lengthwise to slip it on where you want chafe guard.<br />
The shortest filter that I've found (which I also use) is a Kubota 70000-15241. See the May & Aug 96 issues of Mainsheet for more filter #'s and important discussion. As far as the oil filters the Kabota 70000-15241 was only 1/4" longer than the miniature Fram filters. What I didn't like about the miniature Fram filter was the diameter. It only seated on a small portion of the facing surface of the engine. I also question how much filter material was really in there because of the smaller diameter. Can't remember if it had a clogged filter bypass or not, but don't think it had an anti-drain back valve. Your engine -- your choice.<br />
<br />
Another thought. I changed my belt from a 3/8 #395 to a 7/16 #400 which is a "tad" larger & LONGER. If you have trouble and have the space toward the alternator door try a #405 length belt. <br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788<br />
<br />
==Belt tensioning==<br />
As far as belt tensioning - in the dark ages they use a mallet or pry bar. If you go to an auto parts store you can buy a "belt tensioning" tool. It's like a turnbuckle with a left & right thread at a whooping cost of $6-$8! Screw it out till you get the correct tension then tighten the alternator retaining nuts. Easy as pie. Then screw the tool off. Meant to put this in the Mainsheet as a tip.<br />
<br />
Don't overtension or you'll be buying a new internal water pump. To get better alternator spacing maybe a washer might help. I replaced all the bracket bolts with longer ones as the holes were threaded all the way thru. I also recommend that alternator upgrades be limited to 90 amp for side loading and spacing.<br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788 <br />
----<br />
Although my boat is newer and has a MP-25XP engine with the bracket below, I wore out two 7/16" wide Gates heavy duty belts on my new Balmar 100 alternator in less than 500 rpm. It was impossible for me to keep adequate tension on the belts. To adjust the tension one must loosen the alternator bracket and the alternator mounting bolt, pull the alternator back and tighten the alternator bolt while keeping tension on the alternator and then tighten the bracket. Having done this several times during a passage while burning hands and arms and having to shut down the engine. I figured there must be an easier way to add tension to the belt and keep it there. I added a turnbuckle between the alternator bolt and the support beam of the engine. The only thing I was afraid of is that by pushing the alternator out, one also pushes on the engine and one could mess up the engine alignment. I have not done this yet, but I really want to. What are your thoughts about this? What size turnbuckle did you use, and how did you mount it?<br />
Looking forward to seeing your response or anybody else.<br />
Leo Missler, ''Dutch Lion'' C34 #1183 (1992)<br />
----<br />
I did this on the advice of my mechanic who has lots of experience but obviously is not perfect. We did it upon packing up Puff prior to putting her on the hard for the summer (Florida), so I don't have lots of experience with the turnbuckle.<br />
However, I used a 3/8" turnbuckle a shorter one. Pressed a nut into the eye of one end and then a couple of big washers and then bolted all that to the port side of the alternator.<br />
Screwed in a eye bolt to the engine mount platform and repeated the process on that end. Also put another nut on so I could "lock" it in by running it up against the tube.<br />
Wasn't brain surgery and seems to be very solid. It is not on tight enough to change the alignment, I think. It could be a problem if the engine vibrates and the platform doesn't but we will see.<br />
It will be a year before I actually try it.<br />
Frank, ''Puff'' #691 <br />
<br />
----<br />
Just a thought about belt tension and the XP-25.<br />
If you are just having problems putting normal tension on the belt, then the turnbuckle solution would be ok especially if you relaxed the turnbuckle after tightening up the adjusting bolts on the alt. bracket. Flex mounts are supposed to do just that. I would think that sooner or later the tension of the turnbuckle would either pull things out of alignment or transfer noise and vibration into the engine bed. If you are trying to provide more than "normal" tension then please check out below and confirm this information for yourself.<br />
When I was researching putting a high output alternator on "Family Affair" a tech at Maryville Marine, the Universal representative said that they didn't recommend beyond the factory belt tension settings because the front bearing and seal will not put up with a lot of side stress. It seems that the front crank pulley is pretty far in front of the actual front bearing on the block. Belt tension therefore has a lot of mechanical advantage. Much more so than if the crank bearing was right behind the pulley. That front housing is aluminum and full of timing gears. The crank bearing is way back (aft) behind them. Their suggested solution was to add an additional pulley (making 2 belts) on any alternator 100amp or above. They then say you can pull about 5hp off of the stock front pulley. They have the kits available on special order.<br />
Ken Dickson, ''Family Affair'' C34 #876</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=4614Diesel Engine2012-05-10T15:29:06Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Just a little info here; so, please add your own more comprehensive overview and maintenance article here)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
* Exhaust Hose Replacement with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.0.html<br />
* Rebuilding an OBERDORFER Raw Water Pump with Flix http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html<br />
* HEAT EXCHANGER SOURCES and Replacement Bracket and Exchanger with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6920.0.html<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners by Stu Jackson'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
Engine Harness Upgrade from Maine Sail http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade and http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/manuals/ZF_Hurth_Repair_manual.pdf Transmissions:Hurth Repair Manual PDF file]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing&diff=4608Stuffing box packing2012-03-29T01:09:51Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div><div style="padding: 10px; background: aqua; border: 1px solid #FFAA99; font-family: Ariel, sans-serif"><br />
<big>'''How do I install the STUFF in the stuffing box? What is a stuffing box anyway? There are several different types of packing. What kind should I use and what are the differences between them? There are a range of different sizes of material from 1/8" to 5/8". What size do I use? How do I do this? Can I do it with the boat in the water, or do I need to haul her out?'''</big><br />
</div><br />
<br />
----<br />
The stuffing box is actually the large nut on your propeller shaft between the stern tube where the shaft goes out of the boat underneath the aft cabin berth, and your transmission at the aft end of your engine. The stuffing box performs two major functions: it keeps that nasty water we float on OUT of the boat, and it lubricates the shaft as it spins inside the stuffing box itself. <br />
<br />
Catalina's C34 manual that came with your boat has a very good illustration of the stuffing box. It is a section (engineering-speak: means a cutaway type drawing, like a slice right through the middle) showing the stern tube, the black hose, the shaft, the stuffing box gland assembly (the BIG nut forward) and the smaller Locking nut aft. See pages 39 and 40, drawing 4.4.2, Chapter 4.4.3, Auxiliary Power, Shaft Packing Gland (Stuffing Box). <br />
<br />
Maine Sail has a very good photographic review on his website: [http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box] or http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=125430<br />
<br />
For most C34s you'll need 3/16 inch flax material, although that flax size has been reported to be 1/4" flax for hull # 713 (a 1988 model with a standard 1" shaft). Better check your manual. If you don't have one, just measure the distance between the edge of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box after you have backed the stuffing box off. First loosen the locking nut (it will move aft), then loosen the stuffing box (it will move forward). If you're in the water, water will now make its appearance - don't worry, it's not much. There are four different types of "regular" packing material. "Regular" means the material that is inserted in your existing stuffing box, as compared to new equipment, like the PSS Shaft Seal, which requires removal of the existing stuffing box, and replacing it with a new piece of equipment. <br />
<br />
The four types of "regular" or traditional materials are: <br />
#Conventional flax @ $4.29 for a two foot length<br />
#PTFE flax @ $4.19<br />
#The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit<br />
#The Goretex GFO from e-marine <br />
<br />
The size of the square flax material required is based on the clearance between the outside of the shaft and the inside of the stuffing box, where the flax goes in. Here's the differences between the flax material: both the conventional and Teflon impregnated flax need water for lubrication, hence the need to keep the stuffing box actually "dripping", one or two drops per minute when the shaft isn't turning, and four to five when it is moving. <br />
<br />
There's been lots of discussion over the years on just how much "dripping" is required, covered in many old Mainsheet articles for Catalina 34s and others (the older C27 and C30 tech tips are also good sources). For traditional flax (NOT "dripless") the amount of water dripping is easily adjusted based on how much you tighten the stuffing box nut before you use the locking nut on the stuffing box assembly. The stuffing box nut is the bigger one that is forward on the shaft, tightening it moves it aft. Check the C34 Website, under Mainsheet Article Index, and search for packing gland and stuffing box to find those articles. The August 1990 Catalina 27 tech tips has a good article on how to install the material. Ron Hill covered it very well in May 1992 and Feb 1993. The search will detect those issues of Mainsheet that discussed the packing gland, assuming you have access to the old Mainsheets. Now that the website is up with the Tech Notes Online from Mainsheet articles (for C34IA members), you can read all of the C34 articles. <br />
<br />
The "Drip-Less Moldable" packing kit works like this: First, you still need regular flax in addition to the green dripless goop that is the heart of the dripless package. It makes sense to use the Teflon, rather than conventional flax in any event, since it's both cheaper and has more inherent lubrication in the material itself. Second, there are three "rings" of flax in the stuffing box. The outer two rings are still the traditional Teflon flax, while the inner ring of normal flax is replaced with the new dripless green goop. What you do is warm up the green goop in your hand and roll it or knead it out into a thin square strand that matches the 3/16 inch square size of the regular flax. You make a piece long enough to fit around the shaft's circumference. That's easy to do by using the portion of the one inch diameter shaft forward of the stuffing box, so you end up with a piece about two inches long that'll fit around the shaft, same as the other two pieces. The magic tool to get out the old flax is a # 6 or # 8 drywall screw about 2" long. It has a very sharp point. Just push it in by hand into the old flax and screw it in with a hand screw driver. When it bottoms out, grab the head of the screw with a pair of pliers and pull it out. <br />
<br />
After removing the old flax, you install the first ring of normal flax (the forward piece), then the ring of green goop dripless material in the middle ring, then the last (aft) ring of normal flax. The regular flax should be cut at 45 degree angles. See the C34 manual's description of how to cut the flax and stagger the joints. <br />
<br />
Instead of needing to have water dripping for lubrication of the flax, you can hand tighten up the stuffing box so it doesn't drip at all, but not too tight. The final adjustment part is trial and error, covered in one of Ron Hill's Mainsheet articles. The trick is to tighten the stuffing box until water stops, but don't tighten too much. Don't tighten and then back off. Always tighten up the locking nut to the stuffing box with a wrench. <br />
<br />
The advantage with the dripless stuffing material is you don't have to think about constantly checking the drips and keeping water out of the bilge anymore, except for checking the box once in a while to make sure you didn't originally over tighten it (too much heat is the giveaway). The film can of stuff that comes with the kit is Syn-Tef lubrication which you should use anyway with any kind of flax stuffing. Install the Syn-Tef with Qtips. It's called "Dripless" because the middle ring of green goop provides the internal lubrication for the flax that the water used to provide. When you install the flax (of any kind) be sure to cut the edges at a 45 degree angle, not butted, and stagger the joints of all three rows so they do not line up. The manual shows this very clearly on the drawing. Clean the shaft with fine wet/dry sandpaper and then lightly oil it prior to tightening the packing gland. At first tighten the packing gland big nut by hand only, and be sure to tighten up the locking nut to the gland with a wrench. This locking nut keeps the gland itself from loosening. If you've used dripless packing, it should NOT drip, either at rest or with the shaft turning with the gears engaged. A tight locking nut is critical for being seaworthy. <br />
<br />
The cost of the dripless seems high at $50 instead of $4.19 plus tax, because you only use a little bit of the whole package. You could either look at it as a good long term investment that'll last 20 years (!), or share it with a dockmate or two (since the material isn't size specific like the size specific 3/16 inch traditional flax, because you knead it by hand, it'll work for anybody with a stuffing box) and reduce your investment by asking them to chip in. The natural progression seems to be from traditional (either conventional OR Teflon) stuffing material in the stuffing box, to adding the dripless green goop in the center of the three rings, and then it seems that the gang moves on to the PSS mechanical seal, which is $200. Regarding the PSS replacement solution, Ron Hill recently wrote: "There are a number of solutions out there. With a 1" shaft most of the "bellows" units like PSS will fit. You might also consider "drip free packing" which I wrote up in the May 1992 Mainsheet . I've used it since the spring of 1991 and still have it installed today (with a dry bilge). I saw it's still available at West Marine. <br />
<br />
[Added Oct. 2009 by Stu] The e-marine Goretex GFO packing is a popular alternative to the green goop. It was invented well after I originally wrote this material.<br />
<br />
Any advantage of the packing over the bellows unit? If the bellows were to break - for whatever the reason - you have a real EMERGENCY and had better find a travel lift fast. If the normal flax/dripless packing leaks all you need to do is stuff more flax /dripless packing or even stuff pieces of shoe lace/rag in the packing gland to temporally stop the leak." The swap from traditional flax to dripless can be done with the boat in the water, gets a little water in the bilge and is great fun to work around. If you're unsure about this, do it when it's out. Have the new rings cut and ready to go in if you are in the water. Actually the hardest part is getting the old packing out. Ron made a special tool, but he got it out easily and stuffed the new material in with a blunted pencil I think. I used a wire coat hanger to get the old material out. The drywall screw idea seems the best. The flax pullers sold in stores DO NOT work because they are too big for the opening on our boats, so don't bother buying one. Also, you'll probably notice green crud on the outside of the stuffing box. That's the equivalent of rust on the bronze material. Recently learned from an article somewhere that anhydrous lanolin will work to keep it clean, so once you clean off the "rust" apply some lanolin and it should keep the box and locking nut clean as a baby's bottom.<br />
<br />
Orig: 1999; Edited 2009</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=4607Diesel Engine2012-03-26T16:31:51Z<p>Stu jackson: /* Cooling */</p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Just a little info here; so, please add your own more comprehensive overview and maintenance article here)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
* Exhaust Hose Replacement with Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.0.html<br />
* Rebuilding an OBERDORFER Raw Water Pump with Flix http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners by Stu Jackson'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
Engine Harness Upgrade from Maine Sail http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade and http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/manuals/ZF_Hurth_Repair_manual.pdf Transmissions:Hurth Repair Manual PDF file]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22&diff=3798M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit "B/M 256891"2011-10-18T15:37:19Z<p>Stu jackson: added Oct 2011 bolt suggestion</p>
<hr />
<div>{|<br />
|If for some reason you haven't changed to the new alternator bracket on your older (1986, early 1987) M25 21 hp Universal diesel engines, DO SO IMMEDIATELY.<br />
<br />
I learned the hard way yesterday. I'd bought the retrofit kit from Universal a year ago, and was going to do it "soon." I'd just motored over to a friend's dock for a visit, less than 5 minutes away from our slip. When my friend used the head, he came back and said, "Houston, we have a problem!" He'd noticed oil dripping from the underside of the alternator access door onto the head sole. When we took off the stairs to expose the engine, the old "over the top" alternator bracket had sheared, the alternator was lying back to port dangling from the old fan belt, and there was oil everywhere. As it disintegrated the bracket and alternator had clobbered the oil filter, which spouted oil onto the fan belt and blew it all over the engine compartment. It also nicked the fresh water cooling hose. The oil filter kept the alternator from slamming into the casing of the engine.<br />
I got out the new bracket kit, and with generous help from two friends, I removed the old parts, and fitted in the new "underneath" bracket in about three hours. <br />
<br />
Most of the time was spent adjusting the hose clamps on the new fresh water line which goes under the new bracket, since there is only a very small amount of clearance between it and the top of the oil filter. I also had to use a rubber bicycle tube with a hose clamp as a patch over the dinged fresh water hose, which, of course, was within a half inch of the end of the hose on the new copper elbow. Also, we had to drop the alternator again to move the alternator ground wire further back to one of the other studs since the wire was in the way when it was replaced on its old stud.<br />
<br />
October 2011 - From E. Herlihy an O'Day 35 owner: Last November (2010) I installed the upgraded Alternator mounting bracket, with the kit available through Torrensen Marine, and while I was at it I installed a new Leece-Nevile / Prestolite 90 amp alternator on my Universal M25. If you are reading this far, you probably know that the new alternator uses EXACTLY the same housing as the old 55 amp Motorola. BTW the kit is now ~$180.00 When I opened the box containing the kit, I was happy to see that it included all the parts, including the Alternator mounting bolts. I did the installation using the new bolts, but noticed that they did not seem to fit perfectly. The SAE Grade 5 pivot bolt allowed "a little" play of the alternator, and the tension bolt never seemed to fit "right." At the time I assumed that the alternator was machined so that the bolt would jam, thus preventing the bolt from loosening. The real reason is embarrassing....<br />
<br />
I thought it strange that both of these bolts, and the nut were SAE.<br />
031555 - 5/16NC x 1<br />
031615 - 3/8NC x 3-1/2<br />
031762 - Nut 3/8-16 Hex Steel Zinc<br />
<br />
However, EVERY other fastener is Metric. I assumed that Torrensen would know and include the correct bolts, however the extra play was because the bolts did not fit... you know what happens when you ass-u-me... The Pivot bolt SHOULD BE a Metric M10 fastener. The tension bolt (connects the tension arm and the alternator) SHOULD BE a Metric M8 coarse thread. I realized this because I was getting a little belt dust on the engine. After only 50 hours this summer, I thought that was unusual, or I would need to buy a lot of belts. In October of this year (2011), I checked the alternator tension, and the "little" play seemed a "little" worse than it should have...<br />
<br />
Because by now I had stripped some of the threads with the bolt that was included with the kit, I purchased a slightly longer bolt, a nut, and lock washer to use as a tension bolt. I also replaced the pivot bolt with a slightly longer M10 Fine thread bolt. It fit perfectly (no play at all). I used 2 nuts and a spring washer to jam the pivot bolt, so that it will not vibrate loose. I can't speak to the kit available through Catalina Direct, but the Torrensen kit has the wrong bolts!<br />
<br />
Lesson 1: If the components in the "kit" don't seem right to you, they are not.<br />
Lesson 2: DO NOT USE THE ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BOLTS INCLUDED IN THE TORRENSEN KIT if they are SAE, and you have a Leece-Neville or Motorola Alternator. <br />
<br />
==Lessons Learned:==<br />
<br />
# If you haven't, replace the older style bracket TODAY. It'll give NO NOTICE of failure: it will just GO! I was fortunate that I had all the spare parts including the bracket kit, spare oil filter, bicycle tire for water hose patch, extra hose clamps and all the tools. Also was very helpful to have assistance. Once you get your hands oily (with or without gloves) you need a lot of help getting things you need without trashing the cabin.<br />
# One of the tricky parts is installing the hose and its new clamp underneath to provide clearance for the alternator and making sure you position the hose clamp to permit access to the screw for future tightening and checking.<br />
# The existing studs on the fresh water reservoir were just fine. The retrofit kit comes with new studs, but I didn't have to replace them.<br />
# Put the new belt on before you pop the alternator into place with the new adjusting bracket. The kit comes with two new fan belts. They're shorter than the original ones.<br />
# It's a heck of a way to do an oil change AND replace the antifreeze!<br />
# The recent List contributions about plugging the hole between the bottom of the engine compartment and the bilge leave me inclined to recommend keeping the hole, rather than plugging it. While I've got a mess in the bilge to clean up, if the oil and antifreeze hadn't gone into the bilge, it would have filled up the engine pan and spilled over into the cabin, the head, and probably back into the area underneath the aft cabin - not as easy to clean as the contained mess in the bilge.<br />
# The Alternator belt tensioner flix are here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3667.0.html<br />
Stu Jackson, ''[[Aquavite]]'' #224, San Francisco<br />
|<br />
<gallery caption="Click on any picture to enlarge" widths="100px" heights="100px" perrow="2"><br />
image:altold-bracket.jpg|Old Bracket still in place<br />
image:oil-bilge.jpg|Bracket "Broke" and Out Came the Oil!<br />
image:altold-broken.jpg|Broken parts<br />
image:altnew-kit.jpg|M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit<br />
image:altnew-bracket2.jpg|Close-up of New Bracket<br />
image:altnew-bracket.jpg|New bracket Installed<br />
</gallery><br />
Pictures by Stu Jackson, ''Aquavite'' #224<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Message Board Q&A on the alternator bracket upgrade==<br />
====Identifying if your alternator mount needs replacement====<br />
In the recent copy of mainsheet mentioned upgrading the alternator bracket. I'm not sure mine was ever done, although it hasn't presented any problems yet. I ordered the past tech notes collection, and read the article on the bracket. Unfortunately, the copy quality of the pictures that show the old and new bracket are not good. I wondered if you had a better copy if you could send, or a description that would help me determine if I have the old or new? <br />
Dave, Confetti #287, White Lake (Lake Michigan)<br />
<br />
----<br />
Most of us who have read the last several issues of Mainsheet know that the alternator bracket on the Universal Model 25 diesel engine can fail, which can crack the valve cover, resulting in a loss of engine lubricating oil. The manufacturer changed the bracket during 1987, and the current C34 production incorporates the improved engine, although dealers still have some boats with the uncorrected engine. The correct bracket uses an adjustment arm below the alternator. Factory supplied engines will also have "Model 25 XP" affixed to the top of the coolant reservoir. The old arrangement, which is likely to fail in time, has the adjusting arm above the alternator. By the way, the manufacturer does not acknowledge this as a problem, and requires about $115 for the upgrade kit. (NOTE: I paid $95.00 for mine in 1998. It's worth every penny!) Herb Schneider, ''former C34IA Tech Editor''<br />
<br />
----<br />
Stu, Also read your message to Al on the saga of your bracket replacement. Let me give you a couple of thoughts. First the best chafe guard that I've found for around that metal tube that carries coolant above the oil filter is a piece of 1" ribbed black plastic hose (at any marine store -- el cheapo stuff). All you have to do is cut a piece the length that you need and then slice it lengthwise to slip it on where you want chafe guard.<br />
The shortest filter that I've found (which I also use) is a Kubota 70000-15241. See the May & Aug 96 issues of Mainsheet for more filter #'s and important discussion. As far as the oil filters the Kabota 70000-15241 was only 1/4" longer than the miniature Fram filters. What I didn't like about the miniature Fram filter was the diameter. It only seated on a small portion of the facing surface of the engine. I also question how much filter material was really in there because of the smaller diameter. Can't remember if it had a clogged filter bypass or not, but don't think it had an anti-drain back valve. Your engine -- your choice.<br />
<br />
Another thought. I changed my belt from a 3/8 #395 to a 7/16 #400 which is a "tad" larger & LONGER. If you have trouble and have the space toward the alternator door try a #405 length belt. <br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788<br />
<br />
==Belt tensioning==<br />
As far as belt tensioning - in the dark ages they use a mallet or pry bar. If you go to an auto parts store you can buy a "belt tensioning" tool. It's like a turnbuckle with a left & right thread at a whooping cost of $6-$8! Screw it out till you get the correct tension then tighten the alternator retaining nuts. Easy as pie. Then screw the tool off. Meant to put this in the Mainsheet as a tip.<br />
<br />
Don't overtension or you'll be buying a new internal water pump. To get better alternator spacing maybe a washer might help. I replaced all the bracket bolts with longer ones as the holes were threaded all the way thru. I also recommend that alternator upgrades be limited to 90 amp for side loading and spacing.<br />
Ron Hill, ''APACHE'' #788 <br />
----<br />
Although my boat is newer and has a MP-25XP engine with the bracket below, I wore out two 7/16" wide Gates heavy duty belts on my new Balmar 100 alternator in less than 500 rpm. It was impossible for me to keep adequate tension on the belts. To adjust the tension one must loosen the alternator bracket and the alternator mounting bolt, pull the alternator back and tighten the alternator bolt while keeping tension on the alternator and then tighten the bracket. Having done this several times during a passage while burning hands and arms and having to shut down the engine. I figured there must be an easier way to add tension to the belt and keep it there. I added a turnbuckle between the alternator bolt and the support beam of the engine. The only thing I was afraid of is that by pushing the alternator out, one also pushes on the engine and one could mess up the engine alignment. I have not done this yet, but I really want to. What are your thoughts about this? What size turnbuckle did you use, and how did you mount it?<br />
Looking forward to seeing your response or anybody else.<br />
Leo Missler, ''Dutch Lion'' C34 #1183 (1992)<br />
----<br />
I did this on the advice of my mechanic who has lots of experience but obviously is not perfect. We did it upon packing up Puff prior to putting her on the hard for the summer (Florida), so I don't have lots of experience with the turnbuckle.<br />
However, I used a 3/8" turnbuckle a shorter one. Pressed a nut into the eye of one end and then a couple of big washers and then bolted all that to the port side of the alternator.<br />
Screwed in a eye bolt to the engine mount platform and repeated the process on that end. Also put another nut on so I could "lock" it in by running it up against the tube.<br />
Wasn't brain surgery and seems to be very solid. It is not on tight enough to change the alignment, I think. It could be a problem if the engine vibrates and the platform doesn't but we will see.<br />
It will be a year before I actually try it.<br />
Frank, ''Puff'' #691 <br />
<br />
----<br />
Just a thought about belt tension and the XP-25.<br />
If you are just having problems putting normal tension on the belt, then the turnbuckle solution would be ok especially if you relaxed the turnbuckle after tightening up the adjusting bolts on the alt. bracket. Flex mounts are supposed to do just that. I would think that sooner or later the tension of the turnbuckle would either pull things out of alignment or transfer noise and vibration into the engine bed. If you are trying to provide more than "normal" tension then please check out below and confirm this information for yourself.<br />
When I was researching putting a high output alternator on "Family Affair" a tech at Maryville Marine, the Universal representative said that they didn't recommend beyond the factory belt tension settings because the front bearing and seal will not put up with a lot of side stress. It seems that the front crank pulley is pretty far in front of the actual front bearing on the block. Belt tension therefore has a lot of mechanical advantage. Much more so than if the crank bearing was right behind the pulley. That front housing is aluminum and full of timing gears. The crank bearing is way back (aft) behind them. Their suggested solution was to add an additional pulley (making 2 belts) on any alternator 100amp or above. They then say you can pull about 5hp off of the stock front pulley. They have the kits available on special order.<br />
Ken Dickson, ''Family Affair'' C34 #876</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=3570Diesel Engine2011-08-17T01:36:24Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Just a little info here; so, please add your own more comprehensive overview and maintenance article here)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners by Stu Jackson'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Critical_Upgrades&diff=3565Critical Upgrades2011-08-07T21:35:56Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>*[[Traveler Bolts|Traveler Bolts]]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade]<br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine Wiring Harness]]<br><br />
*[[Edson Throttle and Shift Levers|Edson Throttle and Shift Levers]]<br><br />
*[[Steering Idler Pulley Pins|Steering Idler Pulley Pins]]<br><br />
*[[M35 Engine Fuel Filter Bracket|M35 Engine Fuel Filter Bracket]]<br><br />
*[[M35 Engine Raw Water sleeves|M35 Engine Raw Water sleeves]]<br><br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Weep Holes]]<br />
*[[Fuel Pick Up Tube]]<br />
*[[Starter Fuse Holder]]<br />
<br />
Link to the Message Board Critical Upgrades Topic [PLEASE check this out, because more have been added to the message board than appear here: [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=3564Diesel Engine2011-07-28T02:46:00Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Just a little info here; so, please add your own more comprehensive overview and maintenance article here)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer]]<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine&diff=3563Diesel Engine2011-07-28T02:44:50Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
<hr />
<div>''The Catalina 34 has had at least three different motors. The M25, a 21hp engine, was installed on the the early models. The M25XP (23 hp) became standard in 1988. The M30, a 4 cylinder producing 28hp, became an optional engine about the same time and is standard in the Mark II. All are produced under the Universal Motors brand (now Westerbeke Corporation). Due to lack of available supplies, the factory occasionally installed a Yanmar engine (note: Yanmars are higher-compression engines, which do not require glow plugs). ''<br />
<br />
== Cooling ==<br />
*[[Exhaust Pipe Replacement|Exhaust pipe replacement]]<br><br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Maintenance|Heat exchanger maintenance, including zinc change]]<br><br />
*[[Overheating Due to Heat Exchanger|Heat exchanger upgrade]] to 3" version to prevent overheating<br><br />
*[[Hump Hose Replacement|Hump hose replacement guidance]]<br><br />
*[[Engine Air Lock - Engine Heating Problem|Overheating as a result of an air lock]]<br><br />
*[[Raw water pump, impellers and cooling system]] ''(Just a little info here; so, please add your own more comprehensive overview and maintenance article here)''<br />
*[[Raw Water Pump Priming Problem|Raw water pump:]] Loss of self-priming capability<br><br />
*[[Water Heater Doesn't Heat|Water heater doesn't heat when motoring]]<br><br />
*[[Muffler Replacement or Repair|Water-lift muffler: Repair or replace?]]<br><br />
*[[3" heat exchanger mounts]]<br />
*[[Water Pump Impellers]]<br />
*[[Heat Exchanger Pictures]]<br />
*[[Replacing a Sherwood Water Pump with an Oberdorfer M35A&B]]<br />
<br />
== Electrical ==<br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 Alternator mount/bracket upgrade] <font color=red> ''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M25_%28not_the_XP%29_Engine_Harness_Warning/Upgrade Engine harness upgrade] by Capt. Al<br><font color=red> ''Important FIRE HAZARD for M25 series owners''</font color><br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid Glow plug solenoid Installation] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br><br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br><br />
<br />
==Fuel==<br />
*[[Fuel|Fuel issues and advice]] ''(takes you to another section)<br>''<br />
<br />
==Mechanical==<br />
*[[Adjusting Valves]] <br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys]]<br><br />
*[[Air Filters]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)<br>''<br />
*[[Blow by]] ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here!)''<br><br />
*[[Changing Engine Mounts|Changing engine mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Protecting Engine Mounts|Engine mount protector]]<br><br />
*[[Replacing the Oil Change Hose|Oil change hose replacement project]]<br><br />
*[[Advice on Replacing the Oil Pan|Oil pan replacement project]] to fix leaking oil Pan<br><br />
*[[Rebuilding the M25-XP|Rebuilding a M25xp]] by Dave Sanner<br><br />
*[[Replacement Filters, Belts, and Lubricants|Replacement filters, belts, and oils equivalents list:]] find alternate replacement brands<br><br />
*[[Engine Power Loss Diagnosis and Solution|Solving engine power loss:]] Working on the injection pump<br><br />
*[[How to Check the Transmission Oil|Transmissions: Checking the oil]]<br><br />
Transmission Fluid 101 - link to the message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html<br />
*[[The Right Transmission Gear for Sailing|Transmissions: The right gear while under sail]]<br><br />
*[[Media:TransmissionCable.pdf|Transmissions:Hurth Transmission Cable Adjustment PDF file]]<br />
*[[Media:universal_25_service_manual.pdf|Universal Diesel Model 15 and 25 Service Manual]]<br />
<br />
==Misc Projects==<br />
*[[Engine Cover Hinge|Engine compartment cover hinge]]<br><br />
*[[Removing Engine Using Boom]]<br />
<br />
== Shaft & Propeller ==<br />
*[[Flexible Coupling Installation|Flexible coupling installation]]<br><br />
*[[Propeller]]" ''(Be the first to contribute your experience here)<br>''<br />
*[[Shaft Alignment]]<br><br />
*[[Stuffing box]] ''(takes you to a separate section on the stuffing box)<br>''<br />
<br />
== Also of Interest ==<br />
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel Diesel Info at Wikipedia]<br><br />
*[http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm Engine Analysis/survey tips]<br><br />
*[http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Engine Manuals] <br><br />
*[http://shop.torresen.com/marine_diesel_direct/Universal/index.php?p=include&contentsection=universal&contentname=catalogs Parts Catalog]<br><br />
*[[media:Engine Replacement Guide Revise.pdf|Engine Replacement Guide]]</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box&diff=3562Stuffing box2011-07-23T16:04:55Z<p>Stu jackson: /* Stuffing Box & Packing */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Stuffing Box & Packing==<br />
The purpose of a stuffing box is to keep water from entering the boat thru the hole that a shaft (prop, rudder) exits the boat. Which is better, a traditional stuffing box or a dripless replacement? <br />
<br />
*[[Dripless_Packing|Dripless Packing Installation Q&A]] including advice on re-packing while in the water<br><br />
*[[Stuffing_box_packing|How to repack the Stuffing box - by Stu Jackson]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2888.0.html How warm is too warm?] ''(takes you to the Message Board)''<br />
*[*[http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6442.0.html What size stuffing for newer boats?] ''(takes you to the Message Board)'' What size stuffing for newer boats?] ''(takes you to the Message Board)''<br />
*[http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=pss_shaft_seal&action=main&sn=1 PYI Dripless Shaft Seal] ''(takes you to the PYI site; not an endorsement of either the product or retailer)''<br><br />
*[[Stuffing_box_comparison|Stuffing Box Comparison]]<br />
*[[Flax_removal_tools|Tools to make the job easier]]<br><br />
<br />
==Flexible Coupling==<br />
*[[Flexible_Coupling_Installation|Flexible Coupling Installation]]<br><br />
<br />
==Rudder Packing Gland==<br />
*Information can also be found on the Edson web site. [http://www.edsonmarine.com Edson Marine]<br />
<br />
==Also of Interest==<br />
There are over a dozen [http://c34.org/tech-notes-index/index.htm Tech Notes] on prop, shaft and the stuffing box for both the shaft as well as the rudder.</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box&diff=3561Stuffing box2011-07-23T16:03:12Z<p>Stu jackson: /* Stuffing Box & Packing */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Stuffing Box & Packing==<br />
The purpose of a stuffing box is to keep water from entering the boat thru the hole that a shaft (prop, rudder) exits the boat. Which is better, a traditional stuffing box or a dripless replacement? <br />
<br />
*[[Dripless_Packing|Dripless Packing Installation Q&A]] including advice on re-packing while in the water<br><br />
*[[Stuffing_box_packing|How to repack the Stuffing box - by Stu Jackson]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2888.0.html How warm is too warm?] ''(takes you to the Message Board)''<br />
*[*[http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2888.0.html What size stuffing for newer boats?] ''(takes you to the Message Board)'' What size stuffing for newer boats?] ''(takes you to the Message Board)''<br />
*[http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=pss_shaft_seal&action=main&sn=1 PYI Dripless Shaft Seal] ''(takes you to the PYI site; not an endorsement of either the product or retailer)''<br><br />
*[[Stuffing_box_comparison|Stuffing Box Comparison]]<br />
*[[Flax_removal_tools|Tools to make the job easier]]<br><br />
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==Flexible Coupling==<br />
*[[Flexible_Coupling_Installation|Flexible Coupling Installation]]<br><br />
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==Rudder Packing Gland==<br />
*Information can also be found on the Edson web site. [http://www.edsonmarine.com Edson Marine]<br />
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==Also of Interest==<br />
There are over a dozen [http://c34.org/tech-notes-index/index.htm Tech Notes] on prop, shaft and the stuffing box for both the shaft as well as the rudder.</div>Stu jacksonhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Catalina_34&diff=3560Catalina 342011-07-20T18:21:43Z<p>Stu jackson: </p>
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<div>The ''Catalina 34'' is great boat not only to sail but to own. Here's how it has [[Evolution of the Catalina 34|evolved over the years]] through several models. <br />
*[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Miscellaneous/evolution Evolution of C34 models] over the years<br><br />
<br><br />
* See the archived original FAQ and Projects pages right down below<br />
* [[History]]<br />
<br />
IMPORTANT: Please note that the wiki does not have all topics cross referenced to the daily Main Message Board. The MB has been going since 2001 or so and has a variety of technical information not "migrated" to the wiki. There are many innovative ideas, photographs and discussions of technical importance on the MB. It has a very good search engine and a suggestion on its use is here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3880.0.html<br />
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*Anyone may read the topics. If you wish to add content to the wiki you must log in. Use the same user name and password that you use to access the forum.<br><br><br />
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== Topics ==<br />
<br />
* [[Maintenence tips from a new owner]]<br />
* [["101" Series of Tips & Tricks]] http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6437.0.html<br />
* [[Anchoring & Docking]]<br />
* [[Cockpit]] <br />
* [[Critical Upgrades|<font color="red">CRITICAL UPGRADES</font>]]<br />
* [[Dinghies and Tenders]]<br />
* [[Electrical]]<br />
* [[Electronics]]<br />
* [[Diesel Engine| Engine]]<br />
* [[Fuel]]<br />
* [[Galley]]<br />
* [[Head]]<br />
* [[Hull]]<br />
* [[Interior]]<br />
* [[Leaks]]<br />
* [[Maintenance]]<br />
* [[Manuals]]<br />
* [[Miscellaneous]]<br />
* [[Paints & Finishes]]<br />
* [[Performance and Motoring]]<br />
* [[Plumbing]]<br />
* [[Port Lights & Hatches]]<br />
* [[Prop-shaft]]<br />
* [[Refrigeration]]<br />
* [[Rigging and Sails]]<br />
* [[Rudder| Rudder & Steering]]<br />
* [[Safety ]]<br />
* [[Storage]]<br />
* [[Stuffing box]]<br />
* [[Ventilation]]<br />
* [[Woodwork-teak]]<br />
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== Important Notice ==<br />
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Please read our site [[Notice]]<br />
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== Another View ==<br />
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<ul><br />
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<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="background:white;"<br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Engine to Propeller]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Engine, Transmission, Stuffing Box, Shaft & Prop</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Rigging]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Sails, Spars, Standing & Running Rigging</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Hull & Rudder]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Rudder Post, Helm, Keel Bolts, Updates</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Electrical]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Wiring, Batteries, Chargers, Shore Power, Generators</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Electronics]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>GPS, Chartplotters, Instruments, Autopilots</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[On Deck]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Cockpit Tables, Swim Ladder, Dodger & Bimini </small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Cabin]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Storage, Ventilation, Woodwork, Cushions, Lighting</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Galley]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Fridge, Stove, Sink and activities in the Galley</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Head]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Head, Shower, Holding Tank, Related Systems</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Plumbing]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Hot Water, Water Tanks, Hoses, Thru hulls</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Port Lights & Hatches]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Replacing & Repairing</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Maintenance]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Leaks, Paints & Finishes, Cleaning, Teak</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Anchoring & Docking]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Gear & Techniques</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Performance|Sailing & Motoring]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Operation, c34 Specs/Performance</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Dinghy]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Stowing, Towing & Operating</small><br />
|-<br />
|colspan=2|<hr><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Safety]]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>PDF, Harness, Jack Lines</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[[Misc]]</li><br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>One of Kind Items</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq.html FAQs]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Archived C34 Faq page</small><br />
|-<br />
|<li>[http://www.c34.org/projects/projects.html Projects]</li> <br />
| &nbsp;&nbsp; <small>Archived C34 Projects page</small><br />
|}<br />
<br><br><br><br />
<small>[[Test homepage]]</small></div>Stu jackson