https://c34.org/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Michael+shaner&feedformat=atomc34.org - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T10:08:52ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.34.1https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3356Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-02T02:37:45Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00007.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00010.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00020.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00030.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00032sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00035.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. Splice instructions available here [http://www.yalecordage.com/pdf/brait_to_chain_splice.pdf]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00039.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00040.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00043.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00047.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00050.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00060.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00070.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00080.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00090.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00092.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00095.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00135.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00130.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00100.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00140sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00150sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00160sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00170.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00180.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00190.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00200.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00210.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00220sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00230sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.<br />
<br />
img...</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3355Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T03:27:20Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00007.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00010.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00020.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00030.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00032sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00035.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00039.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00040.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00043.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00047.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00050.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00060.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00070.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00080.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00090.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00092.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00095.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00135.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00130.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00100.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00140sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00150sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00160sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00170.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00180.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00190.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00200.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00210.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00220sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00230sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.<br />
<br />
img...</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3354Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:58:27Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00007.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00010.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00020.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00030.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00032sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00035.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00039.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00040.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00043.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00047.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00050.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00060.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00070.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00080.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00090.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00092.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00095.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00135.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00130.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00100.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00140sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00150sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00160sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00170.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00180.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00190.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00200.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00210.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00220sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00230sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.<br />
<br />
img...</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3353Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:55:09Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00007.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00010.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00020.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00030.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00032sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00035.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00039.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00040.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00043.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00047.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00050.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00060.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00070.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00080.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00090.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00092.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00095.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00135.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00130.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00100.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00140sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00150sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00160sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00170.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00180.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00190.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00200.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00210.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00220sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00230sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.<br />
<br />
img...</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3352Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:49:48Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00007.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010[[Image:IMG00010.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020[[Image:IMG00020.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Img030[[Image:IMG00030.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
Img032[[Image:IMG00032sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Img035[[Image:IMG00035.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039[[Image:IMG00039.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040[[Image:IMG00040.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043[[Image:IMG00043.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Img047[[Image:IMG00047.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050[[Image:IMG00050.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060[[Image:IMG00060.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Img070[[Image:IMG00070.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080[[Image:IMG00080.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090[[Image:IMG00090.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
Img092[[Image:IMG00092.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095[[Image:IMG00095.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Img135[[Image:IMG00135.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130[[Image:IMG00130.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100[[Image:IMG00100.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140[[Image:IMG00140sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Img150[[Image:IMG00150sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160[[Image:IMG00160sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170[[Image:IMG00170.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img180[[Image:IMG00180.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img190[[Image:IMG00190.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img200[[Image:IMG00200.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210[[Image:IMG00210.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220[[Image:IMG00220sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230[[Image:IMG00230sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3351Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:46:20Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00007.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010[[Image:IMG00010.jpg]]<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020[[Image:IMG00020.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img030[[Image:IMG00030.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
Img032[[Image:IMG00032sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img035[[Image:IMG00035.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039[[Image:IMG00039.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040[[Image:IMG00040.jpg]]<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043[[Image:IMG00043.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img047[[Image:IMG00047.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050[[Image:IMG00050.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060[[Image:IMG00060.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img070[[Image:IMG00070.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080[[Image:IMG00080.jpg]]<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090[[Image:IMG00090.jpg]]<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
Img092[[Image:IMG00092.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095[[Image:IMG00095.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img135[[Image:IMG00135.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130[[Image:IMG00130.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100[[Image:IMG00100.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140[[Image:IMG00140sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img150[[Image:IMG00150sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160[[Image:IMG00160sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170[[Image:IMG00170.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img180[[Image:IMG00180.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img190[[Image:IMG00190.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img200[[Image:IMG00200.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210[[Image:IMG00210.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220[[Image:IMG00220sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230[[Image:IMG00230sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3350Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:44:50Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00007.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010[[Image:IMG00010.jpg]]<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020[[Image:IMG00020.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img030[[Image:IMG00030.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
Img032[[Image:IMG00032sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img035[[Image:IMG00035.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039[[Image:IMG00039.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040[[Image:IMG00040.jpg]]<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043[[Image:IMG00043.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img047[[Image:IMG00047.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050[[Image:IMG00050.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060[[Image:IMG00060.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img070[[Image:IMG00070.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080[[Image:IMG00080.jpg]]<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090[[Image:IMG00090.jpg]]<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
Img092[[Image:IMG00092.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095[[Image:IMG00095.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img135[[Image:IMG00135.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130[[Image:IMG000130.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100[[Image:IMG00100.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140[[Image:IMG00140sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img150[[Image:IMG00150sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160[[Image:IMG00160sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170[[Image:IMG00170.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img180[[Image:IMG00180.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img190[[Image:IMG00190.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img200[[Image:IMG00200.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210[[Image:IMG00210.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220[[Image:IMG00220sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230[[Image:IMG00230sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3349Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:37:43Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00007.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010[[Image:IMG00010.jpg]]<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020[[Image:IMG00020.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img030[[Image:IMG00030.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
Img032[[Image:IMG00032sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Img035[[Image:IMG00035.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039[[Image:IMG00039.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043<br />
<br />
Img047<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060<br />
<br />
Img070<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
Img092<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095<br />
<br />
Img135<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130 <br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100 <br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140<br />
<br />
Img150<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170<br />
<br />
Img180<br />
<br />
Img190<br />
<br />
Img200<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3348Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:35:07Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
Img 007[[Image:IMG00007.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020<br />
<br />
Img030<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
Img032<br />
<br />
Img035<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043<br />
<br />
Img047<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060<br />
<br />
Img070<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
Img092<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095<br />
<br />
Img135<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130 <br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100 <br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140<br />
<br />
Img150<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170<br />
<br />
Img180<br />
<br />
Img190<br />
<br />
Img200<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00230sm.jpg&diff=3347File:IMG00230sm.jpg2010-04-01T00:33:54Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00220sm.jpg&diff=3346File:IMG00220sm.jpg2010-04-01T00:33:39Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00210.jpg&diff=3345File:IMG00210.jpg2010-04-01T00:33:26Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00200.jpg&diff=3344File:IMG00200.jpg2010-04-01T00:33:11Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00190.jpg&diff=3343File:IMG00190.jpg2010-04-01T00:32:57Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00180.jpg&diff=3342File:IMG00180.jpg2010-04-01T00:32:42Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00170.jpg&diff=3341File:IMG00170.jpg2010-04-01T00:32:28Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00160sm.jpg&diff=3340File:IMG00160sm.jpg2010-04-01T00:32:11Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00150sm.jpg&diff=3339File:IMG00150sm.jpg2010-04-01T00:31:53Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00140sm.jpg&diff=3338File:IMG00140sm.jpg2010-04-01T00:31:34Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00135.jpg&diff=3337File:IMG00135.jpg2010-04-01T00:31:15Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00130.jpg&diff=3336File:IMG00130.jpg2010-04-01T00:30:59Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00100.jpg&diff=3335File:IMG00100.jpg2010-04-01T00:30:40Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00095.jpg&diff=3334File:IMG00095.jpg2010-04-01T00:30:18Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00092.jpg&diff=3333File:IMG00092.jpg2010-04-01T00:30:02Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00090.jpg&diff=3332File:IMG00090.jpg2010-04-01T00:29:46Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00080.jpg&diff=3331File:IMG00080.jpg2010-04-01T00:29:30Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00070.jpg&diff=3330File:IMG00070.jpg2010-04-01T00:29:15Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00060.jpg&diff=3329File:IMG00060.jpg2010-04-01T00:28:58Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00050.jpg&diff=3328File:IMG00050.jpg2010-04-01T00:28:42Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00047.jpg&diff=3327File:IMG00047.jpg2010-04-01T00:28:26Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00043.jpg&diff=3326File:IMG00043.jpg2010-04-01T00:28:11Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00040.jpg&diff=3325File:IMG00040.jpg2010-04-01T00:27:53Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00039.jpg&diff=3324File:IMG00039.jpg2010-04-01T00:27:40Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00035.jpg&diff=3323File:IMG00035.jpg2010-04-01T00:27:26Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00032sm.jpg&diff=3322File:IMG00032sm.jpg2010-04-01T00:27:13Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00030.jpg&diff=3321File:IMG00030.jpg2010-04-01T00:26:59Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00020.jpg&diff=3320File:IMG00020.jpg2010-04-01T00:26:46Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00010.jpg&diff=3319File:IMG00010.jpg2010-04-01T00:26:32Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00007.jpg&diff=3318File:IMG00007.jpg2010-04-01T00:26:17Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3317Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:20:05Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
img003[[Image:IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
Img 005[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
Img 007[[Image:Example.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020<br />
<br />
Img030<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
Img032<br />
<br />
Img035<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043<br />
<br />
Img047<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060<br />
<br />
Img070<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
Img092<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095<br />
<br />
Img135<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130 <br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100 <br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140<br />
<br />
Img150<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170<br />
<br />
Img180<br />
<br />
Img190<br />
<br />
Img200<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3316Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:18:49Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
img003[[Image:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
Img 005[[Image:IMG00005sm.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
Img 007[[Image:Example.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020<br />
<br />
Img030<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
Img032<br />
<br />
Img035<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043<br />
<br />
Img047<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060<br />
<br />
Img070<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
Img092<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095<br />
<br />
Img135<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130 <br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100 <br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140<br />
<br />
Img150<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170<br />
<br />
Img180<br />
<br />
Img190<br />
<br />
Img200<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00005sm.jpg&diff=3315File:IMG00005sm.jpg2010-04-01T00:15:56Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3314Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:13:53Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
img003[[Image:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
Img 005[[Image:Example.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
Img 007[[Image:Example.jpg]] <br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020<br />
<br />
Img030<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
Img032<br />
<br />
Img035<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043<br />
<br />
Img047<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060<br />
<br />
Img070<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
Img092<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095<br />
<br />
Img135<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130 <br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100 <br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140<br />
<br />
Img150<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170<br />
<br />
Img180<br />
<br />
Img190<br />
<br />
Img200<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3313Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-04-01T00:13:01Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks and wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
img003[[Image:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson Supreme. <br />
<br />
Img 005 <br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
Img 007 <br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece of the stem fitting to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020<br />
<br />
Img030<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill after cure. This is no place for moisture in the deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate for the roller as the stress on the bow roller is HUGE. <br />
<br />
Img032<br />
<br />
Img035<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043<br />
<br />
Img047<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060<br />
<br />
Img070<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run. The chase goes from the house bank (typical location on MK 1), alongside stbd water tank to circuit breaker installed in forward setee. From circuit breaker to coaming behind stbd setee, through teak bulkhead into hanging locker. From hanging locker through bulkhead, chased underneath V berth along stbd side to contactor mounted to hull at forward end near anchor locker bulkhead. From contactor, behind anchor locker bulkhead (adjacent to anchor locker drain) to top stbd side of anchor locker, out to windlass motor. <br />
<br />
Img092<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095<br />
<br />
Img135<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130 <br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100 <br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140<br />
<br />
Img150<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170<br />
<br />
Img180<br />
<br />
Img190<br />
<br />
Img200<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:V1_windlass.doc&diff=3312File:V1 windlass.doc2010-04-01T00:09:50Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3311Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-03-31T03:03:12Z<p>Michael shaner: Removing all content from page</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3310Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-03-31T02:30:47Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks, but wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
Img003<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson. <br />
<br />
Img 005 <br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
Img 007 <br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020<br />
<br />
Img030<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill the next day. This is no place for a wet deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate as the stress on the bow roller is very significant. <br />
<br />
Img032<br />
<br />
Img035<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043<br />
<br />
Img047<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the “big honkin’” Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060<br />
<br />
Img070<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run.<br />
<br />
Img092<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095<br />
<br />
Img135<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130 <br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100 <br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140<br />
<br />
Img150<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170<br />
<br />
Img180<br />
<br />
Img190<br />
<br />
Img200<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:IMG00003sm.jpg&diff=3309File:IMG00003sm.jpg2010-03-31T02:29:27Z<p>Michael shaner: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Windlass_installation_w/_bow_roller_MK_1&diff=3308Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 12010-03-31T02:28:04Z<p>Michael shaner: New page: Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. The anchor locker of a MK 1 ...</p>
<hr />
<div>Following is a detailed summary of the installation of a Lewmar V1 windlass in combination with a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson Supreme anchor. <br />
<br />
<br />
The anchor locker of a MK 1 is molded to accept two Danforth style anchors, apparently a “lunch hook” and a “big honkin’ one”. The dilemma was, there is no way to rapidly get the anchor overboard in case of emergency or to effectively manage the line. I don’t believe in lunch hooks, but wanted to retain the “big honkin’ one” as a secondary anchor.<br />
<br />
Img003<br />
[[Image:C:\Documents and Settings\Michael\My Documents\My Pictures\WINDLASS\IMG00003sm.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The MK 1 “toy” bow roller with new Manson. <br />
<br />
Img 005 <br />
<br />
Bow roller template made to determine the mounting location taking into consideration the existing cleat, bow pulpit, etc.<br />
<br />
Img 007 <br />
<br />
Remove the vertical portion of the existing roller. A 4 ½” grinder with a stainless cutting wheel does the job. Be careful of the heat generated by cutting so as not to “cook” the fiberglass. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat.<br />
<br />
Img010<br />
<br />
With the vertical portion gone, place the new bow roller in position. Trace the edge of the new roller on the remaining horizontal piece to mark the next cut. Be careful not to cut the fiberglass under the existing fitting. Cut an inch and douse with cool water. Wait 5 minutes. Repeat…be patient.<br />
<br />
Img020<br />
<br />
Img030<br />
<br />
Locate the mounting holes and drill. This would be a great location to oversize the holes, fill with epoxy and re-drill the next day. This is no place for a wet deck. 5200 is in order as well. If you can, tack weld the new roller to the existing stem fitting. Be sure to use a backing plate as the stress on the bow roller is very significant. <br />
<br />
Img032<br />
<br />
Img035<br />
<br />
Rope / chain splice for smooth transition on the gypsy. I used 40 feet of ¼” G-4 high test chain spliced to 200 feet ½” 8 plait line. The V1 is available with a gypsy for 5/16” chain as well. <br />
<br />
Img039<br />
<br />
Templating the windlass platform. <br />
<br />
Img040<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1/8” stainless steel plate cut and broken to match template. I used 304 stainless…316 would have been the better option. Most machine shops consider this amount of material “scrap”. <br />
<br />
Img043<br />
<br />
Img047<br />
<br />
The “dry fit” to determine the wiring location, wash down pump outlet location, and assure the “big honkin’” Danforth still fits…<br />
<br />
Img050<br />
<br />
Parting out the V berth…<br />
<br />
Img060<br />
<br />
Img070<br />
<br />
Locate and drill bracket mounting holes. <br />
<br />
Img080<br />
<br />
¼” thick aluminum backing plate with countersunk holes to accommodate 8 ea. countersunk head 5/16” stainless fasteners. <br />
<br />
Img090<br />
<br />
I powered the windlass from the house bank. For the length of the wire run (approx. 60 feet from batteries to contactor to windlass and back), Lewmar recommended #2 ga. cable. I drilled 7/8” OD holes and inserted ¾” ID reinforced hose at bulkhead / locker penetrations as chafe protection along the run.<br />
<br />
Img092<br />
<br />
Somebody named Ron says “crimp for strength, solder for juice”. Crimp the cable to the connector, drill a 3/32 or so hole in the connector body, heat the connector with a soldering torch and fill with solder. Apply heat shrink tubing to seal the entire connection. <br />
<br />
Img095<br />
<br />
Img135<br />
<br />
Lewmar supplied 90 amp circuit breaker located under the forward setee.<br />
<br />
Img130 <br />
<br />
Contactor located under the V berth. I used a sealed oak block mounted to the hull with fast cure 5200. <br />
<br />
Img100 <br />
<br />
Preliminary install…<br />
<br />
Img140<br />
<br />
Img150<br />
<br />
<br />
Gussets welded on. Access holes for wiring / wash down pump. <br />
<br />
Img160<br />
<br />
Polishing process…<br />
<br />
Img170<br />
<br />
Img180<br />
<br />
Img190<br />
<br />
Img200<br />
<br />
Chafe protection for wiring…<br />
<br />
Img210<br />
<br />
Final installation.<br />
<br />
Img220<br />
<br />
Deck mounted foot switches…this location worked nicely with the wire chase in the V berth. Another great location for the oversize/epoxy/re-drill and seal routine.<br />
<br />
Img230<br />
<br />
The windlass can be operated with only the stbd locker door open.</div>Michael shanerhttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Anchoring_%26_Docking&diff=3304Anchoring & Docking2010-03-30T21:22:09Z<p>Michael shaner: /* Windlass */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Anchors ==<br />
*[[What's the best anchor for my C34?]] From a series of posts on the Message Board<br><br />
*[[What Size Bruce Anchor for a C34?|A discussion focusing on the Bruce type anchor]]<br><br />
*[[Double Bow Roller for my C34]]<br><br />
<br />
== Docking ==<br />
*[[How do I Install a Mid-Ship Cleats?|How to install midship cleats Q&A]]<br><br />
*[[Extra Bow Cleats|Installing extra Bow Cleats]]<br><br />
<br />
== Windlass ==<br />
*[[Bow-Anchor-Sprit/Pulpit to Hold a Bruce 33|Custom Bow roller project]] by Capt. Al<br><br />
*[[Windlass Inside Double Door Anchor Well|Detailed windlass installation in double door anchor locker]] by Ron Hill<br><br />
*[[Mk I Windlass Installation Pictorial and Q&A]] with Mike Smith and Mark Elkin. (The precursor to Mark's own windlass installation.)<br><br />
*[[Mk I Windlass Installation|Step-by-step instructions for a Mk I windlass installation]] by Mark Elkin<br><br />
*[[Lewmar V-1 Vertical Windlass Installation on 1990 Catalina 34]] by Rick Johnson<br><br />
*[[Windlass installation w/ bow roller MK 1]] Michael Shaner<br><br />
<br />
==Related==<br />
*An article at [http://www.boatus.com/boattech/anchorin.htm BoatUS on anchoring] ''(This takes you to boatus.com)''<br><br />
*[[Hammock Support]]<br><br />
*[[Rode Reel]]<br><br />
*[http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2705.0.html IMPORTANT New Generation Anchor Report] (This takes you away from this area of the site to a GREAT thread on the Message Board. See reply #33 on page 3!)<br></div>Michael shaner