https://c34.org/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Jon+W&feedformat=atomc34.org - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T08:06:15ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.34.1https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Electrical_System_Upgrade&diff=74541987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade2022-08-21T19:08:40Z<p>Jon W: /* PDF of This Write-Up */</p>
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<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
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'''REVISION A – 7-31-2016 Section 11 was revised due to re-routing of the #1, 5, and 14 1 AWG cables directly to the engine compartment from the house bank. The Cable Planner Excel and pdf files, and the pdf file of this write up have been upadted and attached to this write up to reflect the current routing. The schematic and cable ID #'s are unchanged, only the routing is different.'''<br />
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'''REVISION B – 10-11-2016 Section 10 was revised to change photo #74 to show the chafe guard I made from spare fuel hose used to protect wires passing through the bulkhead behind the Main Distribution Panel. The schematic and cable ID #'s are unchanged.'''<br />
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NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
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=General Vessel Description=<br />
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I purchased my Catalina 34 in April 2015. She is a 1987 MK1, hull #493.<br />
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Mechanically she came with a M25XP 23 hp Universal (Kubota) 3 cylinder diesel, Hurth transmission, traditional packing gland, 3 blade 15x9 prop, keel stepped mast, Harken roller furling head sail, footed double reef main, standard rig with a fin keel, a standard rudder for 1987, a dodger with stainless steel tubing for the frame and hand holds over the companionway, and davits from Forespar for the 10’ 2” Walker Bay RIB dinghy/tender.<br />
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Electrically she came with 2 Group 24 105ah Trojan 12VDC batteries, a ProMariner Sport 20 AC battery charger, 12VDC refrigerator compressor, 1-2-Both battery switch mounted on the original OEM main distribution panel at the Navigation Station, 105A Leece-Neville (8MR2401UA) internally regulated alternator on the engine, a mix of LED and incandescent lighting throughout the cabin, IC-M422 ICOM VHF radio and a non-working Loran Navigation system both mounted at the Navigation Station, original engine control panel in the cockpit, non-working Autohelm ST3000 (1998 vintage wheel pilot), removable Command Mike with connection plug near the engine control panel in the cockpit, 5” display fish finder, removable GPS display and Tacktick at the helm.<br />
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=Background=<br />
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I am not an expert in marine electrical systems. I have been able to accomplish this upgrade only because of the breadth of documentation and the experts willing to share their knowledge and experiences that participate on the C34IA forum. I decided to write up my project as a way to pay back everyone that helped, and provide another, complete, reference for others wanting to do a similar upgrade to their boat. This is not a technical discussion on how things work. For that I recommend you read the [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html Electrical Systems 101] in the Tech WIKI, and my posting [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8708.0.html 1987 MK1 Electrical System Upgrade – Feedback Requested] for detailed discussion, graphs, and curves. This write up provides a complete summary of the electrical system upgrade I did with photos, plus attachments with cable/wire details, the final schematic, and a complete parts list of what I used. I've numbered the photos to help with connecting the text to the associated photo.<br />
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''FYI - Before I hooked-up the batteries or turned anything on, I hired a marine electrician to inspect and approve my work, and the design, then sign & date the schematic for insurance.''<br />
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So why do such a complex electrical upgrade? Like a good new owner, I first did all the items in the “Critical Upgrade” list for my vintage boat. While doing the engine harness critical upgrade, I noticed an upgraded 105A alternator, but the system including the main cables had not been upgraded. The alternator output cables still ran through the starter then ~ 20 cable feet to the C post of the 1-2-Both battery switch instead of direct to the house bank, all cables in the charging circuit were 4AWG, the lug terminals were OEM automobile grade wrapped in black electrical tape that was falling off. No marine grade heat shrink tubing or heat shrink terminals were present. My charging system needed to be upgraded for both safety, and being able to cruise for long stretches of time.<br />
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''FYI - I realized the importance of heat shrink tubing and heat shrink terminals doing the engine harness upgrade. When I removed the engine control panel in the cockpit, the ignition wire and blower motor wires fell out of their crimps. No tugging on anything, they just fell out. They were corroded and without heat shrink terminals. Imagine trouble shooting that out at sea!''<br />
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For me this was a very complex project, remember I’m brand new to this. Depending on your level of experience, it may be quicker for you. In total the project took about 250 hours. I spent about 125 hours reading the [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html Electrical Systems 101] topics, previous project write-ups, and started my own thread [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8708.0.html 1987 MK1 Electrical System Upgrade – Feedback Requested] to ask questions on the C34IA website. The outcome of this effort was a complete wiring diagram, a cable planner to identify each wire/cable and associated details, and a parts list. These are each available as part of this write-up in Sections 14 and 15 respectively for you to use as reference. There are both an Excel and a PDF formatted version. A jpg file of the schematic is shown here. If you click on the graphic it will enlarge like the photos do. Another couple of clicks on the image should give you a magnifying glass to zoom in further.<br />
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[[File:New Schematic_H4 sm.jpg|400px]]<br />
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The next step was purchasing the parts, bringing them to the boat, and then spending about 125 more hours doing the actual work on the boat. Nothing was straight forward the first time around. It required lots of thought and decisions each step of the way. All in all, 85 DC and AC wires ranging in size from 16 AWG to 1 AWG have either been installed new, or the existing wires were re-routed, or re-terminated due to either corrosion, damage, making shorter runs, or to increase the number of separate grounds.<br />
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I checked everything as I went, whether or not it was part of the upgrade. Some examples I found that had nothing to do with the electrical upgrade are - My primary RACOR filter/coalescer is properly installed between the tank and the Facet lift pump but it had a 2 micron filter element, the Navigation Station desk bolts were about to fall off, 3 of 4 macerator motor mounting screws were loose, the heat shrink butt connector a PO (Previous Owner) installed on the new macerator motor was not heat shrunk, and the wire insulation on the motor positive wire had been worn away leaving a bare conductor. All loose bolts and screws are tight now, and the damaged wire replaced and properly heat shrunk. After reading several reports on which micron rating to install as the primary, I changed the RACOR filter element to a 10 micron element. There are several opinions on whether a 2, 10, or 30 micron element is correct. I went with a 10 micron because my tank is not as clean as it should be. I know this because when doing the Critical Upgrade to remove the filter at the end of the fuel pick-up tube in the tank, the rubber hose fell off the end of the tube. In fishing it out of the tank, I found the remnants of an old fuel level gauge laying on the bottom. To remove the hose and old level gauge I pulled up pieces of debris from the tank bottom. I would have cleaned the tank, but there are no removable covers to do that. So how did I get the old hose and level gauge out? I was working blind through the small opening for the level gauge. Fuel system work, including the tank is a future project.<br />
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As a final note, every boat is different. The routing and methods I used and wire/cable lengths may not work on your boat. Please read this as a summary of what I did, not as a manual of what you must do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
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=Before Photos=<br />
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The following photos show the boat '''before''' the electrical upgrade. The text description for each group of photos is above them. They are provided to help give you a picture of the starting point.<br />
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Photo (1) is one example of a negative battery cable and lug with electrical tape removed. Notice the crimp terminal and the exposed wire end by the ring. Photo (2) is looking down at the original red 4 AWG cable from the 105A alternator output to the starter. The other red 4 AWG cable runs from the starter, ~ 20 cable feet to the 1-2-Both switch at the Navigation Station. From there it ran another 15 cable feet to the battery in the battery compartment.<br />
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'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:OEM Battery Cable Lug.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Top View Power Out From Start Solenoid.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (3) is the outside of the OEM battery compartment showing no ventilation openings. The switch in the upper right inboard side of the battery compartment is where the auto/on/off bilge pump switch was originally located. Photo (4) shows the original 2x Group 24 batteries, the 2 busbars, a Power Pulse battery maintenance widget, and a shunt for the Link 10 inside the battery compartment.<br />
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'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Battery Compartment Before.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:House Batteries Before.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (5) through (7) are of the traditional C34 salon area with all of the cushions removed. The black cover in the Photo (6) is the existing ventilation cover for the DC refrigerator compressor.<br />
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'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Aft Settee.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Forward Settee.jpg|400px]] <br />
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'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Outboard Settee.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (8) and (9) show the salon area with the wood covers removed. In Photo (8) you can see the fridge compressor attached to the bulkhead at the end of the starboard water tank. Photo (9) shows the water tank and ProMariner ProSport 20A AC charger. The wire from the breaker to the charger had a 3 prong plug connection (like an extension cord) at the charger, and the charger wasn’t fastened to anything, just lying there on the hull waiting to flop around. Not very robust.<br />
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'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Forward Settee Cover Removed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Outboard Settee Cover Removed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (10) shows the holding tank, macerator pump, hoses, and if you look close the original wiring and cables running up to the master distribution panel at the Navigation Station.<br />
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'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Holding Tank Macerator Cover Removed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (11) shows the Navigation Station with the OEM Main Panel, Link 10 battery monitor and 12VDC outlet installed by a PO. The panel has a single pole main, the polarity lights flickered, the lens for a light and the light under the battery switch were missing, the Link 10 did not operate.<br />
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'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Original Nav Station.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (12) and (13) show the wires behind the main panel. To be polite, it was a corroded mess.<br />
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'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:OEM DP Wiring Top.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(13)</big>'''[[File:OEM DP Wiring.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (14) and (15) are taken under the aft cabin with the cushions and wood cover removed. My original plan was to run the cables from the battery compartment under the cabin floor and engine compartment through a hole in this area. (I recently painted this area with white bilgekote when I replaced all the fresh water and vent hoses). In Photo (14), you can see 2 small pilot holes I drilled under the port engine mount. I drilled the pilot holes about 1” deep but did not break through. So I plugged the pilot holes with hardwood dowels and 3M 5200 and changed plans. My fall back plan was to run the cables through the opening shown in Photo (15) where the water hose from the aft tank went under the cabin floor to the sink area.<br />
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'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Pilot Holes.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Aft Water Tank Hose.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Barely visible in photo (16) is a dark clump of old adhesive sitting in the opening to the right of the aft tank water supply hose. It appeared to be excess adhesive for the conduit from the original build of the boat. A light tap with a screwdriver removed it, and now the path is clear to pass the 1 AWG cables through. The yellow strings are messenger lines to pull new cable. '''However''', I found that I could reroute the hot and cold water hoses to the head sink between the manual bilge pump hose and the shower drain hose and reuse the now unused holes in the engine compartment to run the #1, 5, and 14 cables. See photos 55-57 for more clarity. This pass through from under the aft cabin to the galley will be used for my electric 1 1/8" bilge pump hose.<br />
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'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Aft Water Tank Hose Pass Thru.jpg|400px]]<br />
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=The Design Goals=<br />
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# Locate all components to be easily accessible and serviceable with minimal effort.<br />
# Utilize existing openings in the boat to run cable and wire, do not drill any new holes in the boat for cable and wire runs.<br />
# Replace the existing pair of Group 24 105Ah batteries with 4 6V 225AH golf cart batteries wired series/parallel for the house battery bank. Add a single Group 24 or 27 maintenance free 80-100AH 12V deep cycle battery as a reserve. A reserve deep cycle was chosen to be able to fill start, critical, and limited house load needs for redundancy.<br />
# To minimize contents within the battery compartment, remove bus bars, and shunt leaving only batteries and required fuses in the battery compartment where possible.<br />
# Size wire and cable per ABYC using 105°C stranded tin-plated copper boat cable.<br />
# Connect the alternator output directly to the house bank positive with proper fusing.<br />
# Relocate the 1-2-BOTH switch to the battery compartment wall to align with the current ABYC code, and remove the switch from the charging circuit changing it to a battery use switch only.<br />
# Add 2 black ventilation covers to the battery compartment to match both the existing black ventilation cover for the refrigerator compressor, and its vertical height.<br />
# Replace the alternator’s internal regulator with a Balmar MC-614H external regulator with battery and alternator temperature sensing to allow rapid and safe recharge.<br />
# Install a Xantrex Digital Echo Charge to automatically charge the reserve battery from the alternator, the AC charger, and a future solar panel or wind generator system.<br />
# Replace the existing 20A AC battery charger with a ProNautic model 1240P three-stage 40A AC charger with temperature sensing to meet the needs of the new larger house bank. Mount under the Navigation Station desk vertically per manufacturer’s instructions.<br />
# Replace the inoperable Link 10 battery monitor with a Victron BMV-700 to monitor house battery bank voltage, amps in and out, and Ah’s consumed over time, plus add a Balmar SmartGauge to measure voltage and State Of Charge (SOC) of both the house battery bank and the reserve battery.<br />
# Replace the OEM AC/DC Main Distribution Panel with a new breaker panel. New panel to include 2 bilge pump switches, more AC and DC breakers with at least 2 spares for each, a 2 pole ELCI Main AC breaker, and space for a SmartGauge battery monitor.<br />
# Remove the existing OEM AC terminal strip behind the main distribution panel and replace it with one 10 screw and one 5 screw dual buss bar for the AC system.<br />
# Identify a location and leave room for a future electric windlass breaker/switch.<br />
# Revise the DC and AC wiring and over current protection system (fuses) to accomplish the above requirements and conform to current ABYC codes.<br />
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=House Battery Bank=<br />
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I followed others and used four Trojan T105 deep discharge 6V 225AH golf cart batteries. It is a tight fit. The batteries have to be installed in the sequence of inboard aft; inboard forward; outboard aft; outboard forward, but they will fit into the existing battery box of Mk I boats. I considered using four US Battery 2200 6V 232AH golf cart batteries due to the slightly higher Ah rating, but they were taller and I wasn’t confident they would fit with the wood cover installed. In hindsight the additional ~½” in height would have worked. This is something I’ll consider in the future when I need new batteries. Golf cart batteries are used in large numbers for golf carts, so the price is reasonable and are readily available. I purchased mine from a local battery supplier with free delivery to the boat. They even gave me a carrying strap, a real back saver when installing and removing the 62 lb batteries numerous times to fit the “egg crating” I made. An additional hidden benefit here is that the additional ~310 lbs of the four house batteries plus the reserve battery installed on the starboard side helps to offset the port list present in C34s.<br />
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The Trojan brand model T105 batteries are an industry leader in quality, and life. They have thicker plates and built to take more of a pounding. They must be connected in series/parallel to supply the 12VDC at the Ah capacity desired. In this set-up they offer a high power density of 450Ah in a small space. Compare this to the 105 Ah’s of the original Group 24 house battery I had.<br />
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'''House Battery Box Issues''': The OEM battery box has 2 recessed pans for the original batteries to sit in. In order to convert the battery box from a 2 battery arrangement to using 4 6V golf cart batteries, these recessed pans need to be filled or covered to make a flush surface for the batteries to sit on. The entire surface must be flush so they don’t “rock” or have a point load that may cause a battery failure.<br />
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To keep the batteries as low as possible in the battery box I elected to fill the recess using a 2x8 piece of wood. I cut it into 2 ~14 ¼” long by ~1 9/16” thick pieces and chamfered the bottom to fit the recessed pan radius and painted them with white bilgekote. I countersunk screws to fasten them to the bottom of the recessed pan, then used a white silicone caulk to fill the gap between the wood edges and the pan. CAUTION - In my case each pan size was slightly different, so I had to customize each to fit and have a flush surface. Measure yours to get your dimensions before cutting anything. An alternative to filling the recess is to use a plywood cover with a support underneath in each recessed pan. The down side to this method is reduced height.<br />
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Photos (17) and (18) show the 2x8 painted wood fillers, the “egg crate” made from ¾” x ¾” hardwood strips screwed and countersunk to the bottom, and the battery straps all to keep the batteries in place while underway. Photo (18) shows 2 existing holes in the bottom of the box with new cables passing through. (I was later glad to have 2 entry holes). I drilled holes for #8 screws for wire ties along the upper battery box wall, and 2 thru holes for #8 screws in the radius at the bottom of the box on the water heater side. These are to attach wire ties outside of the box near the water heater for the cables that will run in that area. The 2 thru holes were covered with the same silicone caulk used earlier to seal them from a possible battery leak. Be sure the screws do not extend into the battery box or you’ll damage the batteries.<br />
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'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:0627Battery Box Eggcrate.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:0635 Battery Box Cable Entry.jpg|400px]]<br />
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I didn't want to make the final attachments, and then find out the tie down straps interfered with the fill caps on the batteries. So I temporarily installed all of the house batteries to ensure the eggcrate matched up as intended, and the battery straps didn’t interfere with the battery fill caps as shown in photo (19).<br />
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'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:0625 House Bank Test Fit.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (20 and (21) show the 2 new black ventilation covers installed in the battery box and the 1-2-Both battery switch installed where the bilge pump auto/on/off switch used to be. (In the background of photos, you can see the breadboard for the Xantrex Digital Echo charge, house negative busbar, and BMV-700 shunt, but more on that later). The battery switch is a Blue Sea 6007 installed with the front panel mounted option. I used a 2 5/8” Milwaukee Dozer hole saw to drill the hole for the battery switch. It was tricky since I was using the hole saw to enlarge the existing smaller bilge switch hole. The battery box is two walls that are hollow in between. I wedged a piece of wood into the hollow section to give the hole saw pilot bit something to grab on to. I lined up the hole saw with the top of the existing bilge switch hole and went for it. It worked, but maybe not the safest couple of minutes I spent on this project.<br />
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'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:0633 New Vents and Battery Switch.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:0632 House Bank Vents.jpg|400px]]<br />
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I used the same 2 5/8” hole saw for the vent covers along the forward side of the battery compartment instead of buying a larger hole saw for two holes. This surface is also two walls and hollow in between. To avoid gases collecting, I rolled up paper towels and stuffed them inside just below the edge of the hole to act as a backing for the caulk I used. The caulk provided a seal with a nice finished appearance as can be seen in photo (22).<br />
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'''<big>(22)</big>''' [[File:0678 Battery Box Vent Seal.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (23), and (23A) show the Blue Sea 5024 fuse block I used to combine 4 fused runs into one small space with one connection point directly on the battery. The battery posts are short allowing connection of only 2 lugs comfortably. Photo (23A) shows the stack sequence on the battery terminal as the Blue Sea terminal block 5191, positive cable #7, then the nut. On the Blue Sea terminal block 5191, the stack sequence is 250A MRBF, Blue Sea 5024 fuse block, positive cable #2, positive cable #1, then the nut. (The cable #’s are shown in the schematic included with this write-up). Many devices require connecting directly to the battery or as close as possible for best results, and is preferred by ABYC code. This does that neatly.<br />
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'''<big>(23)</big>''' [[File:0625 House Fuse Block.jpg|400px]] '''<big>(23A)</big>''' [[File:House Fuse Block 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (24) shows the Trojan T105’s installed waiting for inspection. I cut a piece of red oak into a “T” shape to fit between the batteries to avoid them tipping together when the battery strap is tightened. The black plastic clips came with the NAPA battery box for the reserve battery. I’m using a higher quality battery strap and stainless steel clips to hold the reserve battery to the shelf, so I decided to use the plastic clips here to keep the wood from sliding. The house bank connects to position 1 on the 1-2-Both battery selector switch. In photo (24), the schematic battery ID #’s starting from the bottom right are #1, bottom left is #2, upper right is #3, and upper left is #4. See the schematic attached in Section 14 of this write-up for the details.<br />
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'''<big>(24)</big>''' [[File:0627 Installed House Bank.jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Reserve Battery=<br />
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Adding a large capacity house bank is great, but what if there is a problem? To solve that I added a single 12V reserve battery and installed it in a battery box I purchased from a NAPA auto parts store. I call it reserve instead of start because it will be able to fill both start, critical, and limited house load needs in an emergency. The Universal diesel is small compared to automotive engines, so I used a Group 24 Maintenance Free 12V, 80Ah, 650 CCA deep cycle battery used in RV’s. I have the room to install a Group 27 on the shelf, but wanted to keep as much storage space as possible so stayed with the Group 24. A Group 27 battery box will fit in this space and would be needed if I change to a Group 27. FYI - After completion of the project, the Group 24 80Ah, 650 CCA deep cycle battery started the engine as easily as the house bank.<br />
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The most common location others install a reserve/start battery on a C34 is under the aft cabin. When I looked at under aft cabin installations, although done well, it was cramped, dark, wet, and hard to service. I chose to add a shelf under the forward outboard starboard corner section of the salon shown in work in photo (25). A loss of storage area, but my storage is limited here due to the refrigerator compressor anyway which you can see in phot (26). Using ½” birch plywood I fabricated a shelf to match the hull, bulkheads, and refrigerator compressor shelf. I cut an opening in the vertical leg of the new shelf for water drainage and access. The underside was painted in the non-bonding areas with white bilgekote before final installation. The hull and bulkheads were sanded for good adhesion, I then used 3M 5200 to bond the shelf to the hull and countersunk screws to bond the top and vertical leg of the shelf together. The screws were covered with a ½” cove molding for looks and a little additional ledge surface to help when removing the battery. The reserve battery was used as a weight to apply pressure while the 3M 5200 cured. The exterior is finished with white bilgekote.<br />
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'''<big>(25)</big>''' [[File:0620 New Shelf In Work).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(26)</big>''' [[File:0655 New Shelf At Fridge Compressor.jpg|400px]]<br />
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I added hardwood strips, and the same type battery strap as the house bank to keep the battery box from moving while underway. The terminal posts and all fuses shown in photo (27) are easily accessible by removing a cushion and the wood cover. The SmartGauge and Digital Echo charge in-line fuses are shown mounted on the bulkhead. I also have space to stow a small tool bag as shown in photo (28).<br />
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'''<big>(27)</big>''' [[File:0664 Reserve Battery Fuses.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(28)</big>''' [[File:0668 Reserve Battery and Small Tool Bag.jpg|400px]]<br />
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In photo (29) you can see that this arrangement also provides space for a future electric windlass breaker to fit between the battery and fridge compressor.<br />
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'''<big>(29)</big>''' [[File:0667 Reserve Battery Negative Post Access.jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Alternator & Regulator=<br />
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Connecting the alternator directly to the house battery is a better arrangement than passing the charging circuit through a 1-2-Both battery switch as done in the stock Catalina wiring. Besides improved charging characteristics, it avoids damaging alternator diodes by opening the charging circuit with the 1-2-Both switch while charging. In my system the alternator output connects directly to the house bank avoiding this potential failure. I continue to use a single 1-2-Both switch, but it’s now only a battery bank selection '''use''' switch that outputs to the Main Distribution Panel and the starter.<br />
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Internally regulated alternators are not designed to periodically recharge a large discharged battery bank rapidly. Technical details and graphs on this subject are discussed at length in my posting [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8708.0.html 1987 MK1 Electrical System Upgrade – Feedback Requested], and in [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html Electrical Systems 101]. To take advantage of my existing 105A alternator, I installed an external regulator. This requires a conversion kit for Leece-Neville I purchased from ASE Supply Inc. Photo (30) shows the part # 114-307, Kit 1070. Photo (31) shows an outside view of the assembled kit before installation.<br />
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'''<big>(30)</big>''' [[File:0618 Conversion Kit PN.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(31)</big>''' [[File:0619 Conversion Kit Complete Top View.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (32) shows an inside view of the same assembled kit before installation.<br />
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'''<big>(32)</big>''' [[File:0621 Conversion Kit Complete Inside View.jpg|400px]]<br />
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I used the Balmar MC-614H external regulator with the 54” long harness, and installed both battery and alternator temperature sensing. To attach the alternator temperature sense wire to the alternator I replaced the original 1” long alternator bracket screw with a 1 ¼” long grade 8 screw as shown in photo (33). The MC-614H is installed under the head sink attached to a piece of ¾” plywood bonded to the bulkhead. It is easy to read the display and use the reed switch for adjustments as shown in photo (34). The regulator wires run to the engine compartment in the split loom. The existing ¾” conduit under the shower pan is used to connect the positive sense wire to the house bank, and the regulator negative to the house negative busbar after the shunt.<br />
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'''<big>(33)</big>''' [[File:0002 Alt Temp Sense Bolt.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(34)</big>''' [[File:0010 Ext Reg Display View.jpg|400px]]<br />
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In photo (35), the brown ignition wire, ID # 50, connects to the ignition switch in the cockpit. The gray material around the perimeter of the cockpit panel is foam tape for weather protection when installed. FYI –I set the belt manager to level 4. The engine was started and run at 1500 rpm. The alternator was charging the house at 80 Amps, the alternator was at 32°C and the house bank was at 18°C. Just like advertised!<br />
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'''<big>(35)</big>''' [[File:0623 Eng Control Panel Wire 50.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
=Digital Echo Charge, Shunt, Negative House Busbar=<br />
<br />
I have a reserve battery for redundancy, but now need to make sure it is always charged and ready to be used. This is done with a Xantrex Digital Echo Charge which is connected between the house bank positive post and the reserve battery positive posts. It will be installed on a vertical breadboard bonded to the hull outboard of the starboard water tank.<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (36) shows the vertical breadboard that is made out of ½” birch plywood cut to match the hull shape and the underside of the storage area behind the starboard salon seat where it’s dry and has good ventilation. '''Before''' installation, I located all the parts to be mounted on the breadboard for best fit of the cables, and screws, then drilled the mounting holes. I then cut a notch into the top edge of the breadboard to make a pass through for the cables and wires to run. The breadboard extends from the end of the water tank ~24” forward and sits back from the fiberglass opening to the water tank ~4” to protect the components from falling items or liquids. The breadboard was then painted with white bilgekote on all sides except for the bonding surface. The hull bonding area was sanded and the breadboard was bonded to the hull and underside of the storage area with 3M 5200. It was held in place with wood shims to apply pressure as it cured as shown in photo (37).<br />
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'''<big>(36)</big>''' [[File:0618 Breadboard.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(37)</big>''' [[File:0619 Breadboard Bonding.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
Photo (38) shows the bottom of the breadboard matched and bonded to the hull. After drying, it was repainted with white bilgekote before installing the components as shown in the next group of photos.<br />
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'''<big>(38)</big>''' [[File:0706 Breadboard Installed Complete.jpg|400px]]<br />
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In photo (39), the Digital Echo Charge is shown installed and wired. The busbar comes with a cover that is removed for clarity. Installing the busbar and the wires connecting to it requires a stubby screwdriver due to limited space between it and the water tank. Photo (40) shows the house negative busbar with negative wires connected and labeled. The 1AWG negative cable to the main engine ground is on the right. The 1AWG negative from the shunt crosses over to the far left post on the busbar.<br />
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'''<big>(39)</big>''' [[File:0647 Echo Charge Installed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(40)</big>''' [[File:0645 House Negative Busbar.jpg|400px]]<br />
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In photo (41) you see the shunt for the BMV-700. The house bank negative is connecting to the brass bolt on the left. This orientation of the shunt was used to have the battery monitor connections pointing down to reduce stress on the wires, and avoid condensation from humidity seeping into the connection points.<br />
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'''<big>(41)</big>''' [[File:0646 BMV700 Shunt Installed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
=AC Battery Charger=<br />
<br />
I removed the original ProMariner ProSport 20A AC battery charger that was lying on the hull '''unattached''' to anything, and replaced it with a ProNautic 40A multistage smart charger. The ProNautic uses battery temperature sensing, and can be programmed for several battery types and profiles for safe and efficient charging. I installed it with 4 screws on the common hanging locker bulkhead underneath the Navigation Station desk, see photos (42) and (43). This allows vertical mounting with plenty of ventilation in a relatively cool dry area. The location does not interfere with my knees when sitting at the desk, but is close enough to get at and change programming if needed. The AC charger wires run through the outboard bulkhead through a conduit LB under the Navigation Station desk. This reduces wires running in the hanging ''wet'' locker, provides a shorter run to the back of the Main Distribution Panel which is directly above it, and the conduit LB hides the hole.<br />
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'''<big>(42)</big>''' [[File:0647 Charger Front.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(43)</big>''' [[File:0715 Charger and Nav Station Desk.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
Unfortunately the temperature sense wire provided with the charger is only 10 feet long and will not reach the house bank from here. To solve this, ProMariner suggested using an RJ6 phone coupler and an RJ6 telephone line the length needed. Photo (44) shows the RJ6 phone coupler and the added 12 foot RJ6 wire tied to the main wire bundle just before the macerator pump/motor. Not sure yet if I’ll plug the open RJ6 phone coupler ends with butyl tape and rescue tape to seal it from mositure.<br />
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'''<big>(44)</big>''' [[File:0685 Charger Temp Sense Phone Coupler.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
=Main Distribution Panel=<br />
<br />
Photo (45) shows the Navigation Station with the new Blue Sea 360 Main Distribution Panel installed. The AC power is on the left side of the panel with a new ELCI 30A double pole main breaker, separate outlet, water heater, and AC battery charger breakers, plus two spares. Moving to the right is the SmartGauge battery monitor located above the bilge pump restricted off and manual on breakers, the right two columns are the 14 DC breakers plus 2 spares. One of the spares will be used for the future auto-pilot. Photo (46) shows the BMV-700 battery monitor and the 12VDC outlet that are installed on the bulkhead shared with the hanging locker, and to the left of the GFCI outlet.<br />
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'''<big>(45)</big>''' [[File:0643 Main DP Installed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(46)</big>''' [[File:0646 BMV700 and 12VDC Outlet.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (47) shows the cables from the back of the BMV-700 and the 12VDC outlet in the hanging locker running through the bulkhead, and behind the main panel.<br />
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'''<big>(47)</big>''' [[File:0663 Wires In Wet Locker.jpg|400px]]<br />
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In photos (48) and (49), more breakers means more wires connecting to the main panel, but the organization of the wiring has been improved from the original.<br />
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'''<big>(48)</big>''' [[File:0718 Main DP Back AC Breakers.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(49)</big>''' [[File:0719 Main DP Back DC Breakers.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Here in photo (50) you see the wire bundle going by the macerator pump and motor up to the main distribution panel higher than before to get them off the hull and out of the way.<br />
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'''<big>(50)</big>''' [[File:0627 Wiring Run Under Macerator.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
I also replaced the old ¼” teak plywood with a new piece of solid teak 5/16” thick. The new teak is shown in photo (51) and the old is shown in photo (52). The new teak improvement is more dramatic in person, and is seen a little better in photos (53) and (54). New is shown in photo (54).<br />
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'''<big>(51)</big>''' [[File:0627 New Teak Fascia.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(52)</big>''' [[File:0628 Old Teak Fascia.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
'''AC Busbar Replacement:''' I removed the original terminal strip in photo (53) and replaced it with a 10 screw dual busbar and a 5 screw dual busbar as shown in photo (54). In photo (53) you can see dark spots under the screw at the end of each wire. Those are corroded spade fittings with open crimps at both ends. I removed and replaced all with heat shrink adhesive lined ring terminals. They are now all nice and shiny new in photo (54). The 10 screw dual busbar is for most AC neutrals and all grounds. The smaller 5 screw dual busbar is dedicated to line and neutrals for the cabin, galley, and head protected AC outlets. The AC outlet power leaves the panel breaker and connects to the GFCI outlet at the Navigation Station. From there it connects to the 5 screw dual busbar for the downstream AC outlets, and is labeled “Protected Outlets”. In this arrangement the cabin, galley, and head outlets are all protected by the Navigation Station GFCI outlet. The down side to this arrangement is the AC outlets are limited to a combined total of 30A. This may or may not be a nuisance item. I plan to wait and see if it is an issue before changing anything.<br />
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'''<big>(53)</big>''' [[File:0626 OEM AC Terminal Strip.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(54)</big>''' [[File:0716 New AC and DC Term Strips (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Wire and Cable Runs=<br />
<br />
All new wiring and cables are Ancor brand 105 degree C rated, stranded, tinned marine boat cable. All lugs are Ancor or FTZ tinned copper, crimped with a quality crimping tool that stamps a number on the lug when properly crimped. The adhesive lined heat shrink tubing for the 8 AWG and larger is a thicker Mil Spec type. All 10AWG and smaller ring terminals and butt connectors are Ancor, or FTZ brand marine adhesive lined heat shrink ring terminals or butt connectors. In some areas I also used non MIL Spec adhesive lined heat shrink tubing for stress relief on the smaller gauge wires. All cables 6 AWG and above were labeled with a “to and from” naming convention plus an ID number. Only an ID number was used on the wires 8 AWG and smaller. The ID number on the wire or cable matches the wire or cable ID number in the schematic. I also heat shrunk clear tubing over the name and ID number or just ID number to protect it per Maine Sails advice. I used adhesive lined clear tubing. It works but it is cloudy. Use clear heat shrink tubing that is not adhesive lined to get a clearer result.<br />
<br />
<br />
For the primary battery and charging circuit cables I used 1 AWG. There was a lot of discussion on what is the proper cable size to use on the Message Board. Refer to my post [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8708.0.html 1987 MK1 Electrical System Upgrade – Feedback Requested]. The following photos (55) and (56) show how the starter, alternator output, and main negative (from the house negative busbar) cables run under the floor between the galley sink and enter the engine compartment where the hot and cold water hoses to the head used to be. I drilled a third 1” hole aft of the first two for the main negative to pass through. I was able to re-route the hot and cold water hoses directly to the head sink. There was just enough room for the two hoses to slide between the shower drain and the manual bilge pump hose. This is a shorter hose run to the head sink than the original route, which went from the galley sink area through the engine compartment, around the aqua lift muffler then back and up to the head sink. I used some of the extra ½” hose for chafe protection where the cables pass through the engine compartment floor.<br />
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'''<big>(55)</big>''' [[File:Cables With Chafe Protection Revised.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(56)</big>''' [[File:Cables Tie Wrapped Revised.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (57) shows another view of the same three cables rising up to the alternator, starter, and main negative cable #14 connection on the starter motor mounting bolt.<br />
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'''<big>(57)</big>''' [[File:Connections To Engine Revised.jpg|400px]]<br />
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In photo (59) you can see I added insulation foam for ¾” pipe on the water tank hose and band clamp to protect the cables and wires from chafing.<br />
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'''<big>(58)</big>''' [[File:0708 New Cables Routed Toward Heater.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (59) shows cables running between the water heater and the outside of the battery box. The wire tie mounts are attached to the thru holes I drilled in the battery box in the beginning. No other way to get in there and drill a hole. Photo (60) shows another use of the insulation material to cover the corner of the water heater support and shelf to avoid any cable or wire chafe. The insulation is attached to the heater shelf with a #8 SST screw fastened to the wood shelf so it doesn't move and leave the wires/cables exposed to the corner.<br />
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'''<big>(59)</big>''' [[File:0652A New Cables Between Heater and Battery Box.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(60)</big>''' [[File:0653 Foam Pad on Corner Heater Support.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (61) shows the cables entering the bottom of the battery box thru the larger of the two existing holes and connecting to the back of the 1-2-Both battery selector switch in the battery box, the “always on” busbar, and the house battery bank. Remember I said I was glad there were two holes? This is why, it is big stuff. ''NOTE: although the battery selector switch posts extended into the battery compartment, the back of the switch was slightly recessed so I was not able to tighten down the cables. Adding two copper washers to each post allowed me to tighten each post and get full contact as required.''<br />
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'''<big>(61)</big>''' [[File:0642 Cables Entering Battery Compartment.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
'''Battery Box Busbar:''' Photos (62) and (63) are looking inboard from the water tank to see inside the battery box. Photo (62) shows the primary cables inside the battery box connecting to the back of the 1-2-Both battery use switch. Position #1 (house bank) is on the right, Position #2 (reserve battery) is on the bottom, and Position C is on the left. The MRBF fuses (covered with the red caps) for the main distribution panel supply connecting to the C post, the AC battery charger, and power for the bilge pump breaker connecting to the “always on” busbar can also be seen. Photo (63) shows the alternator output cable running above the “always on” busbar. The protective cover is removed from the “always on” busbar for clarity. The alternator output cable is labeled upside down so it can be read from above when standing on the boat centerline looking down into the battery box. You can also see the jumper connecting position #1 of the 1-2-Both battery use switch to the “always on” busbar. The most critical DC item currently attached to the “always on” busbar are the bilge pumps. If the house battery bank were to fail, switching the 1-2-Both battery use switch to position #2 would not provide power to the always on busbar. To address this, I made the jumper long enough to be moved from position #1 to position #2 of the 1-2-Both battery use switch to provide temporary power. This failure mode is a remote possibility, but it could occur so I added this no cost redundancy feature.<br />
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'''<big>(62)</big>''' [[File:0636 Main Cables to Battery Switch.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(63)</big>''' [[File:0638 Always On Busbar.jpg|400px]]<br />
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In photo (64), you see the end of the Blue Sea 5024 fuse block discussed in the House Battery section.<br />
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'''<big>(64)</big>''' [[File:0639 Alt Out and Fuse Block.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Looking at the bulkhead between the battery box and water tank in photo (65), you see the 1 AWG negative leaving battery #4 and going to the shunt through the hole in the battery box. Also visible are the temperature sense wires from the AC battery charger, and from the Balmar external voltage regulator. I separated most of the positive wires from the negative wires by running the positive’s into the battery box through the two bottom holes shown earlier, and the negatives and temperature sense wires running through this hole at the top of the other end of the battery box near the water tank. I was only comfortable connecting two wires or cables to a battery post, so I purchased the extension from the battery supply house for ~ $5. In photo (66), the 1AWG negative leaves the battery box and runs under the lip that the outboard salon cushion wood cover sits on.<br />
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'''<big>(65)</big>''' [[File:0644 Neg Post Extension.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(66)</big>''' [[File:0643 Neg Leaves Battery Compartment.jpg|400px]]<br />
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That same cable then connects to the left bolt on the BMV-700 shunt attached to the breadboard as shown in photo (67).<br />
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'''<big>(67)</big>''' [[File:0646 House Negative Connects to Shunt.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (68) shows the positive and negative cables running to the reserve battery from the Digital Echo Charge, the SmartGauge, the 1-2-Both battery selector switch position #2, and from the house bank negative busbar. The shiny bit you see is the refrigeration line. To protect the refrigeration lines in case there is a gas leak from the maintenance free battery, I covered it with the material used to cover wires on the floor so you don’t trip. Photo (69) shows the wires and cables from the reserve battery, Digital Echo Charge, and the SmartGauge running underneath the storage cubby holes behind the outboard salon seat cushion. The white Nomex is the existing DC wiring for the refrigerator compressor and fan. The wood you see is glassed in and is part of the boat. It wasn’t added by me for this project.<br />
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'''<big>(68)</big>''' [[File:0649 Fridge Coil Protector.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(69)</big>''' [[File:0705 Reserve Battery Wire Runs.jpg|400px]]<br />
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The 1 AWG negative continues to the breadboard where it passes through the cutout to connect to the right post on the house negative busbar as shown in photo (70).<br />
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'''<big>(70)</big>''' [[File:0645 Reserve Cable Connects to Shunt.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (71) and (72) show the external regulator wiring under the head sink in the split loom, then is runs along the engine compartment bulkhead under the Racor filter.<br />
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'''<big>(71)</big>''' [[File:0719 Ext Reg Conduit Loom.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(72)</big>''' [[File:0682 Ext Reg Wires To Shower Pan.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (73) the external regulator wires enter the ¾” conduit under the shower pan. They exit the conduit by the macerator pump/motor in photo (76) of the next photo group. The black box by the Racor is part of my non-working depth/temp/speed system.<br />
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'''<big>(73)</big>''' [[File:0680 Ext Reg Wires Into Conduit Under Shower Pan.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Finally photos of the wires running from behind the Main Distribution Panel, to the battery box area. Photo (74) shows the bundle exiting from behind the Main Distribution Panel with a chafe guard I made from some extra fuel hose, and photo (75) shows where they pass under the macerator pump/motor and pick up the external regulator wires.<br />
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'''<big>(74)</big>''' [[File:0028 Hose Chafe Guard (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(75)</big>''' [[File:0686 Wires Run Under Macerator To Bilge Area.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (76) is where they cross over above the bilge. The hoses lying on the hull are for the hot and cold water to the head and the existing manual and electric bilge pumps.<br />
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'''<big>(76)</big>''' [[File:0630 Wires Exit Conduit Near Heater.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
=Miscellaneous=<br />
<br />
Lots of wire ties are used throughout to secure the wire and cable. A great fitting I used is #8 mounting bases; Ancor part # 199231 from West Marine shown in photo (77). Drill a hole for a #8 screw, screw it in, slip the wire tie through the slots, wrap around the wire/cable and tighten. Very secure. A valuable tool to have is a 90 degree drill. I didn’t have one, so bought the 90 degree adaptor shown in photo (78) from Harbor Freight for ~$20 before shipping and handling. It’s a light duty tool, but worked well to get into tight areas to drill holes I wasn't able to without it.<br />
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'''<big>(77)</big>''' [[File:0622 Wire Tie Mounts.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(78)</big>''' [[File:0618 90 Degree Drill Adaptor.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (79) shows the final upgrade in this extensive electrical upgrade. What I thought would be a quick 30 minute job, turned out to be about 1 1/2 hours. The reason being the OEM boatside AC wire terminations to the old shore power connection used ring terminals (not heat shrunk by the way), with zero slack in it. When the ring terminals were cut off, the stripped wire conductor would not reach the SmartPlug terminal. To solve this, I added 8-10" long 10AWG pigtails to each conductor of the OEM 12 AWG cable with adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors. Worked fine, and in the end I replaced my original twist on AC shore power plug with the more secure SmartPlug assembly, a new cable, and the optional protective cover that can be used when the plug is disconnected from the boat. The cover to the right of the SmartPlug is an old Marinco fitting for cable and telephone. It isn't connected to anything that I can find and will eventually be removed. Not sure what I'll replace it with.<br />
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'''<big>(79)</big>''' [[File:0014 SmartPlug Installed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
=Some Lessons Learned=<br />
<br />
Plan before you do - Draw a complete schematic of your new system and have knowledgeable people look at it and listen to their feedback. Take your schematic to your boat and walk through each wire, where it goes, can it be supported, how will you get it there, can it be run there, why run it there, what do you do if you can’t run it there? Example - my original plan to run 1AWG cable from the battery compartment under the floor and engine compartment to under the aft cabin didn’t work. Because I thought through an alternative I lost no appreciable time or money.<br />
<br />
<br />
Serviceability and Functionality – Don’t build a car around the antenna or locate something because it looks good there. Locate it where it can do what it is intended to do well and is serviceable. If something fails can you service it in a panic, in the dark easily? For example don’t put an in-line fuse holder where you can’t grip it to pull it apart to check or replace the fuse.<br />
<br />
<br />
Considerations – Beware of heat, the risk of acid leaks, standing water, and sharp edges. They can damage the wire/cable. The wires want to twist together. Avoid knots and kinks while you’re pulling wire/cable. Keep the wire and cables running parallel in the bundle.<br />
<br />
<br />
Take nothing for granted – Check everything whether it’s part of the project or not. If your boat is like mine, you’ll be surprised at what you find. Lightly tug on adjacent wiring to make sure it is secure. If not, or especially if corroded, fix or replace them now while you’re in there.<br />
<br />
<br />
Heat Shrink Tubing - Cut heat shrink tubing the length needed and slip on to the cable before crimping on the lug, ring terminal, or butt connector. The adhesive lined heat shrink tubing won’t always fit over a crimped lug, terminal, or butt connector.<br />
<br />
<br />
Labels – To protect labels and wire/cable numbers use clear heat shrink tubing without adhesive lining. Keep the name short and install it on the cable and oriented so you can read when it is installed. I only “to and from” labeled the 6 AWG and above cables. However, all wires and cables are numbered with the wire or cable ID number to match the schematic.<br />
<br />
<br />
Crimping - Put the lug or ring terminal on the stripped wire you are going to install and orient it to match what you will be connecting to before crimping. For cables 8 AWG and above I marked a line across the lug and cable jacket with a sharpie so I had an indicator to align to before crimping. When ready to crimp align the line on the lug with the line on the cable. The heat shrink will cover it up.<br />
<br />
<br />
Shop before you buy – Fortunately my broker gets me discounts at West Marine, so I saved about 25% off the listed price. If I were to do this again, I would purchase the SmartGauge, battery charger, and battery monitor from Compass Marine (Maine Sail) whose prices are comparable.<br />
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Common screw – The most common screw I used was a ½” long, stainless steel #8 pan head phillips.<br />
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<br />
First Aid – Have lots of Band-Aides and antiseptic/Bactine. I looked like a cat had gone to town on my hands and forearms, and the inside of the boat looked like a busy MASH Unit.<br />
<br />
<br />
Final Note – Folks that do this for a living earn every penny they charge. GOOD LUCK!<br />
<br />
<br />
=Schematic, Wire Detail, Voltage Drop=<br />
<br />
I've attached a copy of the cable planner in both an Excel and PDF format.<br />
<br />
<br />
The cable planner contains:<br />
* A copy of the schematic.<br />
<br />
* The details for '''each''' wire/cable used in the schematic, including ID# to match the schematic, gauge size, wire/cable length, color, terminals, voltage drop.<br />
<br />
* Voltage drop calculations. All are formula driven, but at the end of the day they are best estimates only.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Cable_Planner_7-31-16_rev_H4.xlsx Cable_Planner_7-31-16_rev_H4.xlsx]]<br />
<br />
[[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Cable_Planner_pdf_7-31-16_rev_H4.pdf Cable_Planner_pdf_7-31-16_rev_H4.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
To help in comparing the schematic to the wire details, a PDF containing only the schematic is attached.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Schematic_4-15-16_rev_H4.pdf Schematic_4-15-16_rev_H4.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=Parts Used=<br />
I've attached a copy of the parts list in both an Excel and PDF format. The parts list contains the part name and number, the store or website I purchased it from, and the part number from that store or website. This is provided as a reference only, there are lots of choices out there.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''''CAUTION''' - The wire lengths provided are for my design and the wire/cable run choices I made. They are provided as a reference only. Your lengths may differ, measure for your application. The same is true for the cable lugs, ring terminals, and butt connector quantities. I was building up my on hand stock as well as provisioning for this project. Your quantities and terminal type and size may differ. Check your application.''<br />
<br />
<br />
[[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Replacement_Parts_Tech_Writeup_03-25-16.xlsx Replacement_Parts_Tech_Writeup_03-25-16.xlsx]]<br />
<br />
[[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Replacement_Parts_Tech_Writeup_03-26-16.pdf Replacement_Parts_Tech_Writeup_03-26-16.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=PDF of This Write-Up=<br />
I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in PDF format for reference. All links have been removed.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade 8-18-22.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Catalina_34_Electrical_System_Upgrade_8-18-22.pdf&diff=7453File:Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade 8-18-22.pdf2022-08-21T19:08:27Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
<hr />
<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Electrical_System_Upgrade&diff=74521987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade2022-08-19T00:09:02Z<p>Jon W: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
'''REVISION A – 7-31-2016 Section 11 was revised due to re-routing of the #1, 5, and 14 1 AWG cables directly to the engine compartment from the house bank. The Cable Planner Excel and pdf files, and the pdf file of this write up have been upadted and attached to this write up to reflect the current routing. The schematic and cable ID #'s are unchanged, only the routing is different.'''<br />
<br />
'''REVISION B – 10-11-2016 Section 10 was revised to change photo #74 to show the chafe guard I made from spare fuel hose used to protect wires passing through the bulkhead behind the Main Distribution Panel. The schematic and cable ID #'s are unchanged.'''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
<br />
=General Vessel Description=<br />
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I purchased my Catalina 34 in April 2015. She is a 1987 MK1, hull #493.<br />
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Mechanically she came with a M25XP 23 hp Universal (Kubota) 3 cylinder diesel, Hurth transmission, traditional packing gland, 3 blade 15x9 prop, keel stepped mast, Harken roller furling head sail, footed double reef main, standard rig with a fin keel, a standard rudder for 1987, a dodger with stainless steel tubing for the frame and hand holds over the companionway, and davits from Forespar for the 10’ 2” Walker Bay RIB dinghy/tender.<br />
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Electrically she came with 2 Group 24 105ah Trojan 12VDC batteries, a ProMariner Sport 20 AC battery charger, 12VDC refrigerator compressor, 1-2-Both battery switch mounted on the original OEM main distribution panel at the Navigation Station, 105A Leece-Neville (8MR2401UA) internally regulated alternator on the engine, a mix of LED and incandescent lighting throughout the cabin, IC-M422 ICOM VHF radio and a non-working Loran Navigation system both mounted at the Navigation Station, original engine control panel in the cockpit, non-working Autohelm ST3000 (1998 vintage wheel pilot), removable Command Mike with connection plug near the engine control panel in the cockpit, 5” display fish finder, removable GPS display and Tacktick at the helm.<br />
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=Background=<br />
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I am not an expert in marine electrical systems. I have been able to accomplish this upgrade only because of the breadth of documentation and the experts willing to share their knowledge and experiences that participate on the C34IA forum. I decided to write up my project as a way to pay back everyone that helped, and provide another, complete, reference for others wanting to do a similar upgrade to their boat. This is not a technical discussion on how things work. For that I recommend you read the [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html Electrical Systems 101] in the Tech WIKI, and my posting [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8708.0.html 1987 MK1 Electrical System Upgrade – Feedback Requested] for detailed discussion, graphs, and curves. This write up provides a complete summary of the electrical system upgrade I did with photos, plus attachments with cable/wire details, the final schematic, and a complete parts list of what I used. I've numbered the photos to help with connecting the text to the associated photo.<br />
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''FYI - Before I hooked-up the batteries or turned anything on, I hired a marine electrician to inspect and approve my work, and the design, then sign & date the schematic for insurance.''<br />
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So why do such a complex electrical upgrade? Like a good new owner, I first did all the items in the “Critical Upgrade” list for my vintage boat. While doing the engine harness critical upgrade, I noticed an upgraded 105A alternator, but the system including the main cables had not been upgraded. The alternator output cables still ran through the starter then ~ 20 cable feet to the C post of the 1-2-Both battery switch instead of direct to the house bank, all cables in the charging circuit were 4AWG, the lug terminals were OEM automobile grade wrapped in black electrical tape that was falling off. No marine grade heat shrink tubing or heat shrink terminals were present. My charging system needed to be upgraded for both safety, and being able to cruise for long stretches of time.<br />
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''FYI - I realized the importance of heat shrink tubing and heat shrink terminals doing the engine harness upgrade. When I removed the engine control panel in the cockpit, the ignition wire and blower motor wires fell out of their crimps. No tugging on anything, they just fell out. They were corroded and without heat shrink terminals. Imagine trouble shooting that out at sea!''<br />
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For me this was a very complex project, remember I’m brand new to this. Depending on your level of experience, it may be quicker for you. In total the project took about 250 hours. I spent about 125 hours reading the [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html Electrical Systems 101] topics, previous project write-ups, and started my own thread [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8708.0.html 1987 MK1 Electrical System Upgrade – Feedback Requested] to ask questions on the C34IA website. The outcome of this effort was a complete wiring diagram, a cable planner to identify each wire/cable and associated details, and a parts list. These are each available as part of this write-up in Sections 14 and 15 respectively for you to use as reference. There are both an Excel and a PDF formatted version. A jpg file of the schematic is shown here. If you click on the graphic it will enlarge like the photos do. Another couple of clicks on the image should give you a magnifying glass to zoom in further.<br />
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[[File:New Schematic_H4 sm.jpg|400px]]<br />
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The next step was purchasing the parts, bringing them to the boat, and then spending about 125 more hours doing the actual work on the boat. Nothing was straight forward the first time around. It required lots of thought and decisions each step of the way. All in all, 85 DC and AC wires ranging in size from 16 AWG to 1 AWG have either been installed new, or the existing wires were re-routed, or re-terminated due to either corrosion, damage, making shorter runs, or to increase the number of separate grounds.<br />
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I checked everything as I went, whether or not it was part of the upgrade. Some examples I found that had nothing to do with the electrical upgrade are - My primary RACOR filter/coalescer is properly installed between the tank and the Facet lift pump but it had a 2 micron filter element, the Navigation Station desk bolts were about to fall off, 3 of 4 macerator motor mounting screws were loose, the heat shrink butt connector a PO (Previous Owner) installed on the new macerator motor was not heat shrunk, and the wire insulation on the motor positive wire had been worn away leaving a bare conductor. All loose bolts and screws are tight now, and the damaged wire replaced and properly heat shrunk. After reading several reports on which micron rating to install as the primary, I changed the RACOR filter element to a 10 micron element. There are several opinions on whether a 2, 10, or 30 micron element is correct. I went with a 10 micron because my tank is not as clean as it should be. I know this because when doing the Critical Upgrade to remove the filter at the end of the fuel pick-up tube in the tank, the rubber hose fell off the end of the tube. In fishing it out of the tank, I found the remnants of an old fuel level gauge laying on the bottom. To remove the hose and old level gauge I pulled up pieces of debris from the tank bottom. I would have cleaned the tank, but there are no removable covers to do that. So how did I get the old hose and level gauge out? I was working blind through the small opening for the level gauge. Fuel system work, including the tank is a future project.<br />
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As a final note, every boat is different. The routing and methods I used and wire/cable lengths may not work on your boat. Please read this as a summary of what I did, not as a manual of what you must do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
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=Before Photos=<br />
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The following photos show the boat '''before''' the electrical upgrade. The text description for each group of photos is above them. They are provided to help give you a picture of the starting point.<br />
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Photo (1) is one example of a negative battery cable and lug with electrical tape removed. Notice the crimp terminal and the exposed wire end by the ring. Photo (2) is looking down at the original red 4 AWG cable from the 105A alternator output to the starter. The other red 4 AWG cable runs from the starter, ~ 20 cable feet to the 1-2-Both switch at the Navigation Station. From there it ran another 15 cable feet to the battery in the battery compartment.<br />
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'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:OEM Battery Cable Lug.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Top View Power Out From Start Solenoid.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (3) is the outside of the OEM battery compartment showing no ventilation openings. The switch in the upper right inboard side of the battery compartment is where the auto/on/off bilge pump switch was originally located. Photo (4) shows the original 2x Group 24 batteries, the 2 busbars, a Power Pulse battery maintenance widget, and a shunt for the Link 10 inside the battery compartment.<br />
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'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Battery Compartment Before.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:House Batteries Before.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (5) through (7) are of the traditional C34 salon area with all of the cushions removed. The black cover in the Photo (6) is the existing ventilation cover for the DC refrigerator compressor.<br />
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'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Aft Settee.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Forward Settee.jpg|400px]] <br />
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'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Outboard Settee.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (8) and (9) show the salon area with the wood covers removed. In Photo (8) you can see the fridge compressor attached to the bulkhead at the end of the starboard water tank. Photo (9) shows the water tank and ProMariner ProSport 20A AC charger. The wire from the breaker to the charger had a 3 prong plug connection (like an extension cord) at the charger, and the charger wasn’t fastened to anything, just lying there on the hull waiting to flop around. Not very robust.<br />
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'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Forward Settee Cover Removed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Outboard Settee Cover Removed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (10) shows the holding tank, macerator pump, hoses, and if you look close the original wiring and cables running up to the master distribution panel at the Navigation Station.<br />
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'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Holding Tank Macerator Cover Removed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (11) shows the Navigation Station with the OEM Main Panel, Link 10 battery monitor and 12VDC outlet installed by a PO. The panel has a single pole main, the polarity lights flickered, the lens for a light and the light under the battery switch were missing, the Link 10 did not operate.<br />
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'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Original Nav Station.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (12) and (13) show the wires behind the main panel. To be polite, it was a corroded mess.<br />
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'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:OEM DP Wiring Top.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(13)</big>'''[[File:OEM DP Wiring.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (14) and (15) are taken under the aft cabin with the cushions and wood cover removed. My original plan was to run the cables from the battery compartment under the cabin floor and engine compartment through a hole in this area. (I recently painted this area with white bilgekote when I replaced all the fresh water and vent hoses). In Photo (14), you can see 2 small pilot holes I drilled under the port engine mount. I drilled the pilot holes about 1” deep but did not break through. So I plugged the pilot holes with hardwood dowels and 3M 5200 and changed plans. My fall back plan was to run the cables through the opening shown in Photo (15) where the water hose from the aft tank went under the cabin floor to the sink area.<br />
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'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Pilot Holes.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Aft Water Tank Hose.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Barely visible in photo (16) is a dark clump of old adhesive sitting in the opening to the right of the aft tank water supply hose. It appeared to be excess adhesive for the conduit from the original build of the boat. A light tap with a screwdriver removed it, and now the path is clear to pass the 1 AWG cables through. The yellow strings are messenger lines to pull new cable. '''However''', I found that I could reroute the hot and cold water hoses to the head sink between the manual bilge pump hose and the shower drain hose and reuse the now unused holes in the engine compartment to run the #1, 5, and 14 cables. See photos 55-57 for more clarity. This pass through from under the aft cabin to the galley will be used for my electric 1 1/8" bilge pump hose.<br />
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'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Aft Water Tank Hose Pass Thru.jpg|400px]]<br />
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=The Design Goals=<br />
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# Locate all components to be easily accessible and serviceable with minimal effort.<br />
# Utilize existing openings in the boat to run cable and wire, do not drill any new holes in the boat for cable and wire runs.<br />
# Replace the existing pair of Group 24 105Ah batteries with 4 6V 225AH golf cart batteries wired series/parallel for the house battery bank. Add a single Group 24 or 27 maintenance free 80-100AH 12V deep cycle battery as a reserve. A reserve deep cycle was chosen to be able to fill start, critical, and limited house load needs for redundancy.<br />
# To minimize contents within the battery compartment, remove bus bars, and shunt leaving only batteries and required fuses in the battery compartment where possible.<br />
# Size wire and cable per ABYC using 105°C stranded tin-plated copper boat cable.<br />
# Connect the alternator output directly to the house bank positive with proper fusing.<br />
# Relocate the 1-2-BOTH switch to the battery compartment wall to align with the current ABYC code, and remove the switch from the charging circuit changing it to a battery use switch only.<br />
# Add 2 black ventilation covers to the battery compartment to match both the existing black ventilation cover for the refrigerator compressor, and its vertical height.<br />
# Replace the alternator’s internal regulator with a Balmar MC-614H external regulator with battery and alternator temperature sensing to allow rapid and safe recharge.<br />
# Install a Xantrex Digital Echo Charge to automatically charge the reserve battery from the alternator, the AC charger, and a future solar panel or wind generator system.<br />
# Replace the existing 20A AC battery charger with a ProNautic model 1240P three-stage 40A AC charger with temperature sensing to meet the needs of the new larger house bank. Mount under the Navigation Station desk vertically per manufacturer’s instructions.<br />
# Replace the inoperable Link 10 battery monitor with a Victron BMV-700 to monitor house battery bank voltage, amps in and out, and Ah’s consumed over time, plus add a Balmar SmartGauge to measure voltage and State Of Charge (SOC) of both the house battery bank and the reserve battery.<br />
# Replace the OEM AC/DC Main Distribution Panel with a new breaker panel. New panel to include 2 bilge pump switches, more AC and DC breakers with at least 2 spares for each, a 2 pole ELCI Main AC breaker, and space for a SmartGauge battery monitor.<br />
# Remove the existing OEM AC terminal strip behind the main distribution panel and replace it with one 10 screw and one 5 screw dual buss bar for the AC system.<br />
# Identify a location and leave room for a future electric windlass breaker/switch.<br />
# Revise the DC and AC wiring and over current protection system (fuses) to accomplish the above requirements and conform to current ABYC codes.<br />
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=House Battery Bank=<br />
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I followed others and used four Trojan T105 deep discharge 6V 225AH golf cart batteries. It is a tight fit. The batteries have to be installed in the sequence of inboard aft; inboard forward; outboard aft; outboard forward, but they will fit into the existing battery box of Mk I boats. I considered using four US Battery 2200 6V 232AH golf cart batteries due to the slightly higher Ah rating, but they were taller and I wasn’t confident they would fit with the wood cover installed. In hindsight the additional ~½” in height would have worked. This is something I’ll consider in the future when I need new batteries. Golf cart batteries are used in large numbers for golf carts, so the price is reasonable and are readily available. I purchased mine from a local battery supplier with free delivery to the boat. They even gave me a carrying strap, a real back saver when installing and removing the 62 lb batteries numerous times to fit the “egg crating” I made. An additional hidden benefit here is that the additional ~310 lbs of the four house batteries plus the reserve battery installed on the starboard side helps to offset the port list present in C34s.<br />
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The Trojan brand model T105 batteries are an industry leader in quality, and life. They have thicker plates and built to take more of a pounding. They must be connected in series/parallel to supply the 12VDC at the Ah capacity desired. In this set-up they offer a high power density of 450Ah in a small space. Compare this to the 105 Ah’s of the original Group 24 house battery I had.<br />
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'''House Battery Box Issues''': The OEM battery box has 2 recessed pans for the original batteries to sit in. In order to convert the battery box from a 2 battery arrangement to using 4 6V golf cart batteries, these recessed pans need to be filled or covered to make a flush surface for the batteries to sit on. The entire surface must be flush so they don’t “rock” or have a point load that may cause a battery failure.<br />
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To keep the batteries as low as possible in the battery box I elected to fill the recess using a 2x8 piece of wood. I cut it into 2 ~14 ¼” long by ~1 9/16” thick pieces and chamfered the bottom to fit the recessed pan radius and painted them with white bilgekote. I countersunk screws to fasten them to the bottom of the recessed pan, then used a white silicone caulk to fill the gap between the wood edges and the pan. CAUTION - In my case each pan size was slightly different, so I had to customize each to fit and have a flush surface. Measure yours to get your dimensions before cutting anything. An alternative to filling the recess is to use a plywood cover with a support underneath in each recessed pan. The down side to this method is reduced height.<br />
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Photos (17) and (18) show the 2x8 painted wood fillers, the “egg crate” made from ¾” x ¾” hardwood strips screwed and countersunk to the bottom, and the battery straps all to keep the batteries in place while underway. Photo (18) shows 2 existing holes in the bottom of the box with new cables passing through. (I was later glad to have 2 entry holes). I drilled holes for #8 screws for wire ties along the upper battery box wall, and 2 thru holes for #8 screws in the radius at the bottom of the box on the water heater side. These are to attach wire ties outside of the box near the water heater for the cables that will run in that area. The 2 thru holes were covered with the same silicone caulk used earlier to seal them from a possible battery leak. Be sure the screws do not extend into the battery box or you’ll damage the batteries.<br />
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'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:0627Battery Box Eggcrate.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:0635 Battery Box Cable Entry.jpg|400px]]<br />
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I didn't want to make the final attachments, and then find out the tie down straps interfered with the fill caps on the batteries. So I temporarily installed all of the house batteries to ensure the eggcrate matched up as intended, and the battery straps didn’t interfere with the battery fill caps as shown in photo (19).<br />
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'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:0625 House Bank Test Fit.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (20 and (21) show the 2 new black ventilation covers installed in the battery box and the 1-2-Both battery switch installed where the bilge pump auto/on/off switch used to be. (In the background of photos, you can see the breadboard for the Xantrex Digital Echo charge, house negative busbar, and BMV-700 shunt, but more on that later). The battery switch is a Blue Sea 6007 installed with the front panel mounted option. I used a 2 5/8” Milwaukee Dozer hole saw to drill the hole for the battery switch. It was tricky since I was using the hole saw to enlarge the existing smaller bilge switch hole. The battery box is two walls that are hollow in between. I wedged a piece of wood into the hollow section to give the hole saw pilot bit something to grab on to. I lined up the hole saw with the top of the existing bilge switch hole and went for it. It worked, but maybe not the safest couple of minutes I spent on this project.<br />
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'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:0633 New Vents and Battery Switch.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:0632 House Bank Vents.jpg|400px]]<br />
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I used the same 2 5/8” hole saw for the vent covers along the forward side of the battery compartment instead of buying a larger hole saw for two holes. This surface is also two walls and hollow in between. To avoid gases collecting, I rolled up paper towels and stuffed them inside just below the edge of the hole to act as a backing for the caulk I used. The caulk provided a seal with a nice finished appearance as can be seen in photo (22).<br />
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'''<big>(22)</big>''' [[File:0678 Battery Box Vent Seal.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (23), and (23A) show the Blue Sea 5024 fuse block I used to combine 4 fused runs into one small space with one connection point directly on the battery. The battery posts are short allowing connection of only 2 lugs comfortably. Photo (23A) shows the stack sequence on the battery terminal as the Blue Sea terminal block 5191, positive cable #7, then the nut. On the Blue Sea terminal block 5191, the stack sequence is 250A MRBF, Blue Sea 5024 fuse block, positive cable #2, positive cable #1, then the nut. (The cable #’s are shown in the schematic included with this write-up). Many devices require connecting directly to the battery or as close as possible for best results, and is preferred by ABYC code. This does that neatly.<br />
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'''<big>(23)</big>''' [[File:0625 House Fuse Block.jpg|400px]] '''<big>(23A)</big>''' [[File:House Fuse Block 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (24) shows the Trojan T105’s installed waiting for inspection. I cut a piece of red oak into a “T” shape to fit between the batteries to avoid them tipping together when the battery strap is tightened. The black plastic clips came with the NAPA battery box for the reserve battery. I’m using a higher quality battery strap and stainless steel clips to hold the reserve battery to the shelf, so I decided to use the plastic clips here to keep the wood from sliding. The house bank connects to position 1 on the 1-2-Both battery selector switch. In photo (24), the schematic battery ID #’s starting from the bottom right are #1, bottom left is #2, upper right is #3, and upper left is #4. See the schematic attached in Section 14 of this write-up for the details.<br />
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'''<big>(24)</big>''' [[File:0627 Installed House Bank.jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Reserve Battery=<br />
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Adding a large capacity house bank is great, but what if there is a problem? To solve that I added a single 12V reserve battery and installed it in a battery box I purchased from a NAPA auto parts store. I call it reserve instead of start because it will be able to fill both start, critical, and limited house load needs in an emergency. The Universal diesel is small compared to automotive engines, so I used a Group 24 Maintenance Free 12V, 80Ah, 650 CCA deep cycle battery used in RV’s. I have the room to install a Group 27 on the shelf, but wanted to keep as much storage space as possible so stayed with the Group 24. A Group 27 battery box will fit in this space and would be needed if I change to a Group 27. FYI - After completion of the project, the Group 24 80Ah, 650 CCA deep cycle battery started the engine as easily as the house bank.<br />
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The most common location others install a reserve/start battery on a C34 is under the aft cabin. When I looked at under aft cabin installations, although done well, it was cramped, dark, wet, and hard to service. I chose to add a shelf under the forward outboard starboard corner section of the salon shown in work in photo (25). A loss of storage area, but my storage is limited here due to the refrigerator compressor anyway which you can see in phot (26). Using ½” birch plywood I fabricated a shelf to match the hull, bulkheads, and refrigerator compressor shelf. I cut an opening in the vertical leg of the new shelf for water drainage and access. The underside was painted in the non-bonding areas with white bilgekote before final installation. The hull and bulkheads were sanded for good adhesion, I then used 3M 5200 to bond the shelf to the hull and countersunk screws to bond the top and vertical leg of the shelf together. The screws were covered with a ½” cove molding for looks and a little additional ledge surface to help when removing the battery. The reserve battery was used as a weight to apply pressure while the 3M 5200 cured. The exterior is finished with white bilgekote.<br />
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'''<big>(25)</big>''' [[File:0620 New Shelf In Work).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(26)</big>''' [[File:0655 New Shelf At Fridge Compressor.jpg|400px]]<br />
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I added hardwood strips, and the same type battery strap as the house bank to keep the battery box from moving while underway. The terminal posts and all fuses shown in photo (27) are easily accessible by removing a cushion and the wood cover. The SmartGauge and Digital Echo charge in-line fuses are shown mounted on the bulkhead. I also have space to stow a small tool bag as shown in photo (28).<br />
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'''<big>(27)</big>''' [[File:0664 Reserve Battery Fuses.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(28)</big>''' [[File:0668 Reserve Battery and Small Tool Bag.jpg|400px]]<br />
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In photo (29) you can see that this arrangement also provides space for a future electric windlass breaker to fit between the battery and fridge compressor.<br />
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'''<big>(29)</big>''' [[File:0667 Reserve Battery Negative Post Access.jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Alternator & Regulator=<br />
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Connecting the alternator directly to the house battery is a better arrangement than passing the charging circuit through a 1-2-Both battery switch as done in the stock Catalina wiring. Besides improved charging characteristics, it avoids damaging alternator diodes by opening the charging circuit with the 1-2-Both switch while charging. In my system the alternator output connects directly to the house bank avoiding this potential failure. I continue to use a single 1-2-Both switch, but it’s now only a battery bank selection '''use''' switch that outputs to the Main Distribution Panel and the starter.<br />
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Internally regulated alternators are not designed to periodically recharge a large discharged battery bank rapidly. Technical details and graphs on this subject are discussed at length in my posting [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8708.0.html 1987 MK1 Electrical System Upgrade – Feedback Requested], and in [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html Electrical Systems 101]. To take advantage of my existing 105A alternator, I installed an external regulator. This requires a conversion kit for Leece-Neville I purchased from ASE Supply Inc. Photo (30) shows the part # 114-307, Kit 1070. Photo (31) shows an outside view of the assembled kit before installation.<br />
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'''<big>(30)</big>''' [[File:0618 Conversion Kit PN.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(31)</big>''' [[File:0619 Conversion Kit Complete Top View.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (32) shows an inside view of the same assembled kit before installation.<br />
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'''<big>(32)</big>''' [[File:0621 Conversion Kit Complete Inside View.jpg|400px]]<br />
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I used the Balmar MC-614H external regulator with the 54” long harness, and installed both battery and alternator temperature sensing. To attach the alternator temperature sense wire to the alternator I replaced the original 1” long alternator bracket screw with a 1 ¼” long grade 8 screw as shown in photo (33). The MC-614H is installed under the head sink attached to a piece of ¾” plywood bonded to the bulkhead. It is easy to read the display and use the reed switch for adjustments as shown in photo (34). The regulator wires run to the engine compartment in the split loom. The existing ¾” conduit under the shower pan is used to connect the positive sense wire to the house bank, and the regulator negative to the house negative busbar after the shunt.<br />
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'''<big>(33)</big>''' [[File:0002 Alt Temp Sense Bolt.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(34)</big>''' [[File:0010 Ext Reg Display View.jpg|400px]]<br />
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In photo (35), the brown ignition wire, ID # 50, connects to the ignition switch in the cockpit. The gray material around the perimeter of the cockpit panel is foam tape for weather protection when installed. FYI –I set the belt manager to level 4. The engine was started and run at 1500 rpm. The alternator was charging the house at 80 Amps, the alternator was at 32°C and the house bank was at 18°C. Just like advertised!<br />
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'''<big>(35)</big>''' [[File:0623 Eng Control Panel Wire 50.jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Digital Echo Charge, Shunt, Negative House Busbar=<br />
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I have a reserve battery for redundancy, but now need to make sure it is always charged and ready to be used. This is done with a Xantrex Digital Echo Charge which is connected between the house bank positive post and the reserve battery positive posts. It will be installed on a vertical breadboard bonded to the hull outboard of the starboard water tank.<br />
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Photo (36) shows the vertical breadboard that is made out of ½” birch plywood cut to match the hull shape and the underside of the storage area behind the starboard salon seat where it’s dry and has good ventilation. '''Before''' installation, I located all the parts to be mounted on the breadboard for best fit of the cables, and screws, then drilled the mounting holes. I then cut a notch into the top edge of the breadboard to make a pass through for the cables and wires to run. The breadboard extends from the end of the water tank ~24” forward and sits back from the fiberglass opening to the water tank ~4” to protect the components from falling items or liquids. The breadboard was then painted with white bilgekote on all sides except for the bonding surface. The hull bonding area was sanded and the breadboard was bonded to the hull and underside of the storage area with 3M 5200. It was held in place with wood shims to apply pressure as it cured as shown in photo (37).<br />
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'''<big>(36)</big>''' [[File:0618 Breadboard.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(37)</big>''' [[File:0619 Breadboard Bonding.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (38) shows the bottom of the breadboard matched and bonded to the hull. After drying, it was repainted with white bilgekote before installing the components as shown in the next group of photos.<br />
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'''<big>(38)</big>''' [[File:0706 Breadboard Installed Complete.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
In photo (39), the Digital Echo Charge is shown installed and wired. The busbar comes with a cover that is removed for clarity. Installing the busbar and the wires connecting to it requires a stubby screwdriver due to limited space between it and the water tank. Photo (40) shows the house negative busbar with negative wires connected and labeled. The 1AWG negative cable to the main engine ground is on the right. The 1AWG negative from the shunt crosses over to the far left post on the busbar.<br />
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'''<big>(39)</big>''' [[File:0647 Echo Charge Installed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(40)</big>''' [[File:0645 House Negative Busbar.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
In photo (41) you see the shunt for the BMV-700. The house bank negative is connecting to the brass bolt on the left. This orientation of the shunt was used to have the battery monitor connections pointing down to reduce stress on the wires, and avoid condensation from humidity seeping into the connection points.<br />
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'''<big>(41)</big>''' [[File:0646 BMV700 Shunt Installed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
=AC Battery Charger=<br />
<br />
I removed the original ProMariner ProSport 20A AC battery charger that was lying on the hull '''unattached''' to anything, and replaced it with a ProNautic 40A multistage smart charger. The ProNautic uses battery temperature sensing, and can be programmed for several battery types and profiles for safe and efficient charging. I installed it with 4 screws on the common hanging locker bulkhead underneath the Navigation Station desk, see photos (42) and (43). This allows vertical mounting with plenty of ventilation in a relatively cool dry area. The location does not interfere with my knees when sitting at the desk, but is close enough to get at and change programming if needed. The AC charger wires run through the outboard bulkhead through a conduit LB under the Navigation Station desk. This reduces wires running in the hanging ''wet'' locker, provides a shorter run to the back of the Main Distribution Panel which is directly above it, and the conduit LB hides the hole.<br />
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'''<big>(42)</big>''' [[File:0647 Charger Front.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(43)</big>''' [[File:0715 Charger and Nav Station Desk.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Unfortunately the temperature sense wire provided with the charger is only 10 feet long and will not reach the house bank from here. To solve this, ProMariner suggested using an RJ6 phone coupler and an RJ6 telephone line the length needed. Photo (44) shows the RJ6 phone coupler and the added 12 foot RJ6 wire tied to the main wire bundle just before the macerator pump/motor. Not sure yet if I’ll plug the open RJ6 phone coupler ends with butyl tape and rescue tape to seal it from mositure.<br />
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'''<big>(44)</big>''' [[File:0685 Charger Temp Sense Phone Coupler.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
=Main Distribution Panel=<br />
<br />
Photo (45) shows the Navigation Station with the new Blue Sea 360 Main Distribution Panel installed. The AC power is on the left side of the panel with a new ELCI 30A double pole main breaker, separate outlet, water heater, and AC battery charger breakers, plus two spares. Moving to the right is the SmartGauge battery monitor located above the bilge pump restricted off and manual on breakers, the right two columns are the 14 DC breakers plus 2 spares. One of the spares will be used for the future auto-pilot. Photo (46) shows the BMV-700 battery monitor and the 12VDC outlet that are installed on the bulkhead shared with the hanging locker, and to the left of the GFCI outlet.<br />
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'''<big>(45)</big>''' [[File:0643 Main DP Installed.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(46)</big>''' [[File:0646 BMV700 and 12VDC Outlet.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (47) shows the cables from the back of the BMV-700 and the 12VDC outlet in the hanging locker running through the bulkhead, and behind the main panel.<br />
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'''<big>(47)</big>''' [[File:0663 Wires In Wet Locker.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
In photos (48) and (49), more breakers means more wires connecting to the main panel, but the organization of the wiring has been improved from the original.<br />
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'''<big>(48)</big>''' [[File:0718 Main DP Back AC Breakers.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(49)</big>''' [[File:0719 Main DP Back DC Breakers.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
Here in photo (50) you see the wire bundle going by the macerator pump and motor up to the main distribution panel higher than before to get them off the hull and out of the way.<br />
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'''<big>(50)</big>''' [[File:0627 Wiring Run Under Macerator.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
I also replaced the old ¼” teak plywood with a new piece of solid teak 5/16” thick. The new teak is shown in photo (51) and the old is shown in photo (52). The new teak improvement is more dramatic in person, and is seen a little better in photos (53) and (54). New is shown in photo (54).<br />
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'''<big>(51)</big>''' [[File:0627 New Teak Fascia.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(52)</big>''' [[File:0628 Old Teak Fascia.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
'''AC Busbar Replacement:''' I removed the original terminal strip in photo (53) and replaced it with a 10 screw dual busbar and a 5 screw dual busbar as shown in photo (54). In photo (53) you can see dark spots under the screw at the end of each wire. Those are corroded spade fittings with open crimps at both ends. I removed and replaced all with heat shrink adhesive lined ring terminals. They are now all nice and shiny new in photo (54). The 10 screw dual busbar is for most AC neutrals and all grounds. The smaller 5 screw dual busbar is dedicated to line and neutrals for the cabin, galley, and head protected AC outlets. The AC outlet power leaves the panel breaker and connects to the GFCI outlet at the Navigation Station. From there it connects to the 5 screw dual busbar for the downstream AC outlets, and is labeled “Protected Outlets”. In this arrangement the cabin, galley, and head outlets are all protected by the Navigation Station GFCI outlet. The down side to this arrangement is the AC outlets are limited to a combined total of 30A. This may or may not be a nuisance item. I plan to wait and see if it is an issue before changing anything.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(53)</big>''' [[File:0626 OEM AC Terminal Strip.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
'''<big>(54)</big>''' [[File:0716 New AC and DC Term Strips (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Wire and Cable Runs=<br />
<br />
All new wiring and cables are Ancor brand 105 degree C rated, stranded, tinned marine boat cable. All lugs are Ancor or FTZ tinned copper, crimped with a quality crimping tool that stamps a number on the lug when properly crimped. The adhesive lined heat shrink tubing for the 8 AWG and larger is a thicker Mil Spec type. All 10AWG and smaller ring terminals and butt connectors are Ancor, or FTZ brand marine adhesive lined heat shrink ring terminals or butt connectors. In some areas I also used non MIL Spec adhesive lined heat shrink tubing for stress relief on the smaller gauge wires. All cables 6 AWG and above were labeled with a “to and from” naming convention plus an ID number. Only an ID number was used on the wires 8 AWG and smaller. The ID number on the wire or cable matches the wire or cable ID number in the schematic. I also heat shrunk clear tubing over the name and ID number or just ID number to protect it per Maine Sails advice. I used adhesive lined clear tubing. It works but it is cloudy. Use clear heat shrink tubing that is not adhesive lined to get a clearer result.<br />
<br />
<br />
For the primary battery and charging circuit cables I used 1 AWG. There was a lot of discussion on what is the proper cable size to use on the Message Board. Refer to my post [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8708.0.html 1987 MK1 Electrical System Upgrade – Feedback Requested]. The following photos (55) and (56) show how the starter, alternator output, and main negative (from the house negative busbar) cables run under the floor between the galley sink and enter the engine compartment where the hot and cold water hoses to the head used to be. I drilled a third 1” hole aft of the first two for the main negative to pass through. I was able to re-route the hot and cold water hoses directly to the head sink. There was just enough room for the two hoses to slide between the shower drain and the manual bilge pump hose. This is a shorter hose run to the head sink than the original route, which went from the galley sink area through the engine compartment, around the aqua lift muffler then back and up to the head sink. I used some of the extra ½” hose for chafe protection where the cables pass through the engine compartment floor.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(55)</big>''' [[File:Cables With Chafe Protection Revised.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(56)</big>''' [[File:Cables Tie Wrapped Revised.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
Photo (57) shows another view of the same three cables rising up to the alternator, starter, and main negative cable #14 connection on the starter motor mounting bolt.<br />
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'''<big>(57)</big>''' [[File:Connections To Engine Revised.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
<br />
In photo (59) you can see I added insulation foam for ¾” pipe on the water tank hose and band clamp to protect the cables and wires from chafing.<br />
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'''<big>(58)</big>''' [[File:0708 New Cables Routed Toward Heater.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (59) shows cables running between the water heater and the outside of the battery box. The wire tie mounts are attached to the thru holes I drilled in the battery box in the beginning. No other way to get in there and drill a hole. Photo (60) shows another use of the insulation material to cover the corner of the water heater support and shelf to avoid any cable or wire chafe. The insulation is attached to the heater shelf with a #8 SST screw fastened to the wood shelf so it doesn't move and leave the wires/cables exposed to the corner.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(59)</big>''' [[File:0652A New Cables Between Heater and Battery Box.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(60)</big>''' [[File:0653 Foam Pad on Corner Heater Support.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
Photo (61) shows the cables entering the bottom of the battery box thru the larger of the two existing holes and connecting to the back of the 1-2-Both battery selector switch in the battery box, the “always on” busbar, and the house battery bank. Remember I said I was glad there were two holes? This is why, it is big stuff. ''NOTE: although the battery selector switch posts extended into the battery compartment, the back of the switch was slightly recessed so I was not able to tighten down the cables. Adding two copper washers to each post allowed me to tighten each post and get full contact as required.''<br />
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'''<big>(61)</big>''' [[File:0642 Cables Entering Battery Compartment.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Battery Box Busbar:''' Photos (62) and (63) are looking inboard from the water tank to see inside the battery box. Photo (62) shows the primary cables inside the battery box connecting to the back of the 1-2-Both battery use switch. Position #1 (house bank) is on the right, Position #2 (reserve battery) is on the bottom, and Position C is on the left. The MRBF fuses (covered with the red caps) for the main distribution panel supply connecting to the C post, the AC battery charger, and power for the bilge pump breaker connecting to the “always on” busbar can also be seen. Photo (63) shows the alternator output cable running above the “always on” busbar. The protective cover is removed from the “always on” busbar for clarity. The alternator output cable is labeled upside down so it can be read from above when standing on the boat centerline looking down into the battery box. You can also see the jumper connecting position #1 of the 1-2-Both battery use switch to the “always on” busbar. The most critical DC item currently attached to the “always on” busbar are the bilge pumps. If the house battery bank were to fail, switching the 1-2-Both battery use switch to position #2 would not provide power to the always on busbar. To address this, I made the jumper long enough to be moved from position #1 to position #2 of the 1-2-Both battery use switch to provide temporary power. This failure mode is a remote possibility, but it could occur so I added this no cost redundancy feature.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(62)</big>''' [[File:0636 Main Cables to Battery Switch.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
'''<big>(63)</big>''' [[File:0638 Always On Busbar.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
In photo (64), you see the end of the Blue Sea 5024 fuse block discussed in the House Battery section.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(64)</big>''' [[File:0639 Alt Out and Fuse Block.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Looking at the bulkhead between the battery box and water tank in photo (65), you see the 1 AWG negative leaving battery #4 and going to the shunt through the hole in the battery box. Also visible are the temperature sense wires from the AC battery charger, and from the Balmar external voltage regulator. I separated most of the positive wires from the negative wires by running the positive’s into the battery box through the two bottom holes shown earlier, and the negatives and temperature sense wires running through this hole at the top of the other end of the battery box near the water tank. I was only comfortable connecting two wires or cables to a battery post, so I purchased the extension from the battery supply house for ~ $5. In photo (66), the 1AWG negative leaves the battery box and runs under the lip that the outboard salon cushion wood cover sits on.<br />
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'''<big>(65)</big>''' [[File:0644 Neg Post Extension.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(66)</big>''' [[File:0643 Neg Leaves Battery Compartment.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
That same cable then connects to the left bolt on the BMV-700 shunt attached to the breadboard as shown in photo (67).<br />
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'''<big>(67)</big>''' [[File:0646 House Negative Connects to Shunt.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
Photo (68) shows the positive and negative cables running to the reserve battery from the Digital Echo Charge, the SmartGauge, the 1-2-Both battery selector switch position #2, and from the house bank negative busbar. The shiny bit you see is the refrigeration line. To protect the refrigeration lines in case there is a gas leak from the maintenance free battery, I covered it with the material used to cover wires on the floor so you don’t trip. Photo (69) shows the wires and cables from the reserve battery, Digital Echo Charge, and the SmartGauge running underneath the storage cubby holes behind the outboard salon seat cushion. The white Nomex is the existing DC wiring for the refrigerator compressor and fan. The wood you see is glassed in and is part of the boat. It wasn’t added by me for this project.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(68)</big>''' [[File:0649 Fridge Coil Protector.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(69)</big>''' [[File:0705 Reserve Battery Wire Runs.jpg|400px]]<br />
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The 1 AWG negative continues to the breadboard where it passes through the cutout to connect to the right post on the house negative busbar as shown in photo (70).<br />
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'''<big>(70)</big>''' [[File:0645 Reserve Cable Connects to Shunt.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
Photos (71) and (72) show the external regulator wiring under the head sink in the split loom, then is runs along the engine compartment bulkhead under the Racor filter.<br />
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'''<big>(71)</big>''' [[File:0719 Ext Reg Conduit Loom.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(72)</big>''' [[File:0682 Ext Reg Wires To Shower Pan.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (73) the external regulator wires enter the ¾” conduit under the shower pan. They exit the conduit by the macerator pump/motor in photo (76) of the next photo group. The black box by the Racor is part of my non-working depth/temp/speed system.<br />
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'''<big>(73)</big>''' [[File:0680 Ext Reg Wires Into Conduit Under Shower Pan.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Finally photos of the wires running from behind the Main Distribution Panel, to the battery box area. Photo (74) shows the bundle exiting from behind the Main Distribution Panel with a chafe guard I made from some extra fuel hose, and photo (75) shows where they pass under the macerator pump/motor and pick up the external regulator wires.<br />
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'''<big>(74)</big>''' [[File:0028 Hose Chafe Guard (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(75)</big>''' [[File:0686 Wires Run Under Macerator To Bilge Area.jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (76) is where they cross over above the bilge. The hoses lying on the hull are for the hot and cold water to the head and the existing manual and electric bilge pumps.<br />
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'''<big>(76)</big>''' [[File:0630 Wires Exit Conduit Near Heater.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
=Miscellaneous=<br />
<br />
Lots of wire ties are used throughout to secure the wire and cable. A great fitting I used is #8 mounting bases; Ancor part # 199231 from West Marine shown in photo (77). Drill a hole for a #8 screw, screw it in, slip the wire tie through the slots, wrap around the wire/cable and tighten. Very secure. A valuable tool to have is a 90 degree drill. I didn’t have one, so bought the 90 degree adaptor shown in photo (78) from Harbor Freight for ~$20 before shipping and handling. It’s a light duty tool, but worked well to get into tight areas to drill holes I wasn't able to without it.<br />
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'''<big>(77)</big>''' [[File:0622 Wire Tie Mounts.jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(78)</big>''' [[File:0618 90 Degree Drill Adaptor.jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
Photo (79) shows the final upgrade in this extensive electrical upgrade. What I thought would be a quick 30 minute job, turned out to be about 1 1/2 hours. The reason being the OEM boatside AC wire terminations to the old shore power connection used ring terminals (not heat shrunk by the way), with zero slack in it. When the ring terminals were cut off, the stripped wire conductor would not reach the SmartPlug terminal. To solve this, I added 8-10" long 10AWG pigtails to each conductor of the OEM 12 AWG cable with adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors. Worked fine, and in the end I replaced my original twist on AC shore power plug with the more secure SmartPlug assembly, a new cable, and the optional protective cover that can be used when the plug is disconnected from the boat. The cover to the right of the SmartPlug is an old Marinco fitting for cable and telephone. It isn't connected to anything that I can find and will eventually be removed. Not sure what I'll replace it with.<br />
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'''<big>(79)</big>''' [[File:0014 SmartPlug Installed.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=Some Lessons Learned=<br />
<br />
Plan before you do - Draw a complete schematic of your new system and have knowledgeable people look at it and listen to their feedback. Take your schematic to your boat and walk through each wire, where it goes, can it be supported, how will you get it there, can it be run there, why run it there, what do you do if you can’t run it there? Example - my original plan to run 1AWG cable from the battery compartment under the floor and engine compartment to under the aft cabin didn’t work. Because I thought through an alternative I lost no appreciable time or money.<br />
<br />
<br />
Serviceability and Functionality – Don’t build a car around the antenna or locate something because it looks good there. Locate it where it can do what it is intended to do well and is serviceable. If something fails can you service it in a panic, in the dark easily? For example don’t put an in-line fuse holder where you can’t grip it to pull it apart to check or replace the fuse.<br />
<br />
<br />
Considerations – Beware of heat, the risk of acid leaks, standing water, and sharp edges. They can damage the wire/cable. The wires want to twist together. Avoid knots and kinks while you’re pulling wire/cable. Keep the wire and cables running parallel in the bundle.<br />
<br />
<br />
Take nothing for granted – Check everything whether it’s part of the project or not. If your boat is like mine, you’ll be surprised at what you find. Lightly tug on adjacent wiring to make sure it is secure. If not, or especially if corroded, fix or replace them now while you’re in there.<br />
<br />
<br />
Heat Shrink Tubing - Cut heat shrink tubing the length needed and slip on to the cable before crimping on the lug, ring terminal, or butt connector. The adhesive lined heat shrink tubing won’t always fit over a crimped lug, terminal, or butt connector.<br />
<br />
<br />
Labels – To protect labels and wire/cable numbers use clear heat shrink tubing without adhesive lining. Keep the name short and install it on the cable and oriented so you can read when it is installed. I only “to and from” labeled the 6 AWG and above cables. However, all wires and cables are numbered with the wire or cable ID number to match the schematic.<br />
<br />
<br />
Crimping - Put the lug or ring terminal on the stripped wire you are going to install and orient it to match what you will be connecting to before crimping. For cables 8 AWG and above I marked a line across the lug and cable jacket with a sharpie so I had an indicator to align to before crimping. When ready to crimp align the line on the lug with the line on the cable. The heat shrink will cover it up.<br />
<br />
<br />
Shop before you buy – Fortunately my broker gets me discounts at West Marine, so I saved about 25% off the listed price. If I were to do this again, I would purchase the SmartGauge, battery charger, and battery monitor from Compass Marine (Maine Sail) whose prices are comparable.<br />
<br />
<br />
Common screw – The most common screw I used was a ½” long, stainless steel #8 pan head phillips.<br />
<br />
<br />
First Aid – Have lots of Band-Aides and antiseptic/Bactine. I looked like a cat had gone to town on my hands and forearms, and the inside of the boat looked like a busy MASH Unit.<br />
<br />
<br />
Final Note – Folks that do this for a living earn every penny they charge. GOOD LUCK!<br />
<br />
<br />
=Schematic, Wire Detail, Voltage Drop=<br />
<br />
I've attached a copy of the cable planner in both an Excel and PDF format.<br />
<br />
<br />
The cable planner contains:<br />
* A copy of the schematic.<br />
<br />
* The details for '''each''' wire/cable used in the schematic, including ID# to match the schematic, gauge size, wire/cable length, color, terminals, voltage drop.<br />
<br />
* Voltage drop calculations. All are formula driven, but at the end of the day they are best estimates only.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Cable_Planner_7-31-16_rev_H4.xlsx Cable_Planner_7-31-16_rev_H4.xlsx]]<br />
<br />
[[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Cable_Planner_pdf_7-31-16_rev_H4.pdf Cable_Planner_pdf_7-31-16_rev_H4.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
To help in comparing the schematic to the wire details, a PDF containing only the schematic is attached.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Schematic_4-15-16_rev_H4.pdf Schematic_4-15-16_rev_H4.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=Parts Used=<br />
I've attached a copy of the parts list in both an Excel and PDF format. The parts list contains the part name and number, the store or website I purchased it from, and the part number from that store or website. This is provided as a reference only, there are lots of choices out there.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''''CAUTION''' - The wire lengths provided are for my design and the wire/cable run choices I made. They are provided as a reference only. Your lengths may differ, measure for your application. The same is true for the cable lugs, ring terminals, and butt connector quantities. I was building up my on hand stock as well as provisioning for this project. Your quantities and terminal type and size may differ. Check your application.''<br />
<br />
<br />
[[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Replacement_Parts_Tech_Writeup_03-25-16.xlsx Replacement_Parts_Tech_Writeup_03-25-16.xlsx]]<br />
<br />
[[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Replacement_Parts_Tech_Writeup_03-26-16.pdf Replacement_Parts_Tech_Writeup_03-26-16.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=PDF of This Write-Up=<br />
I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in PDF format for reference. All links have been removed.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade 1-26-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=74451987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2022-01-31T19:49:00Z<p>Jon W: /* Reference PDF’s For This Project */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
<br />
The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
<br />
As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
<br />
Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1 amp/hour. I added ~30% margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
<br />
I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photos (19) and (20) show screen shots from my phone at the initial start up of the Port and the Starboard MPPT charge controller displays. The system is putting 7.8A from the Port panel plus 7.2A from the Starboard panel for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
With the project completed, Photos (21) and (22) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Port LKG AFT (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(22)</big>''' [[File:Stbd LKG AFT (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 01-31-22.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels_01-31-22.pdf&diff=7444File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 01-31-22.pdf2022-01-31T19:48:51Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
<hr />
<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=74431987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2022-01-31T19:48:08Z<p>Jon W: /* Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
<br />
The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
<br />
As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
<br />
Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1 amp/hour. I added ~30% margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
<br />
I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photos (19) and (20) show screen shots from my phone at the initial start up of the Port and the Starboard MPPT charge controller displays. The system is putting 7.8A from the Port panel plus 7.2A from the Starboard panel for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
With the project completed, Photos (21) and (22) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Port LKG AFT (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(22)</big>''' [[File:Stbd LKG AFT (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-10-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Aft_Cabin_Spare_Parts_Storage&diff=74421987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Aft Cabin Spare Parts Storage2022-01-27T05:35:22Z<p>Jon W: /* PDF of This Write-Up */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Storage=<br />
<br />
I purchased my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 in April 2015. A great boat, but usable storage from the factory is limited. Photo (1) shows the aft cabin and the two OEM removable hatches located there when the cushions are removed. I just completed a project creating a isolated compartment to store my tools under the small rectangular cover. That write up is also in the Tech WIKI in the “Storage” section.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:IMG_1388 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Spare parts storage separate from the living area lockers is a priority for me. The rectangular cover on the boat centerline under the aft cabin shown in photo (1) above, would be a good location for a spare parts locker. Access under the mattress is good, and I don’t expect to be looking for spare parts very often. The problem is there aren’t any bulkheads to keep things dry, in one place, and away from the propeller shaft. That’s what this project is about.<br />
<br />
=Materials Used=<br />
<br />
* West System #105 Epoxy Resin.<br />
* West System #205 Fast Hardener.<br />
* West System #27 Episize Biaxial Tape 4” x 10 foot roll.<br />
* West System Six10 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive.<br />
* ½” Plywood sanded both sides.<br />
* ¼” Plywood sanded both sides.<br />
* 1x10” Pine boards.<br />
* SST piano hinge.<br />
* 2 x 2” galvanized angle straps.<br />
* 2 x A23 galvanized Simpson Strong-Tie.<br />
* 16 x #8 x 2” long SST flat head screws.<br />
* 3 x #8 x 1 1/2” long SST flat head screws.<br />
* 4 x #8 x 1 1/4” long SST flat head screws.<br />
* 28 x #8 x ½” long SST pan head screws.<br />
* DAP white adhesive sealant silicone caulk.<br />
* White KILZ primer sealant paint.<br />
* White Interlux Bilgekote (YMA102) paint.<br />
* 3 x ~5 lb cinder blocks<br />
<br />
=Making the Spare Parts Locker=<br />
<br />
The locker needs to be removable when complete access for major work is needed. For regular maintenance tasks, it should also have a means to open the ends without removing the entire locker. This would provide access to the propeller shaft, packing gland, shaft log, and strut bolts.<br />
<br />
Locating the mounting feet in the right place, with good contact to the shape of the hull is important for a good solid bond, and being able to match the mounting feet to the bottom of the locker. To correctly locate the mounting feet, I decided to make the locker first. Then I could attach the feet to it with screws and epoxy bond the whole assembly to the hull ensuring a matched fit.<br />
<br />
The outside port/starboard width dimension of the locker is slightly less than the inside width of the opening in the boat. The outside fore and aft length dimension of the locker is from the inside edge of the aft opening to just aft of the shaft log. This allows access to see/touch the propeller shaft and packing gland for a visual check. With the length and width defined, creating the locker is a simple construction so I do not have detailed photos of the build process. The sides and ends are made from the 1x10” pine boards. The bottom is made from the ¾” plywood, and the partitions are made from the ¼” plywood. The partitions slide into pieces of pine blocks cut from pine board that I had in the garage. The groove for the partitions to slide in was cut with a table saw at a depth set about half the thickness of each block. See Photo (2).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Aft End (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
So the ends can move out of the way in case I needed to get to the propeller shaft, packing gland, or strut bolts, I attached the ends to the locker bottom with pieces of SST piano hinge I had from a previous project. The piano hinges allow the ends to rotate freely. (When the ends of the locker are rotated open, they defined where the partitions would be located). To hold the top of the ends in place when not rotated out of the way, I screwed 2” galvanized angle straps to each corner. For a belt and suspenders feature, I screwed one 90 degree galvanized Strong-Tie strap to each end of the locker to act as a stop. See Photo (3).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Port Side (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
The last safety feature was adding a cleat to the underside of the locker bottom. It rests against the forward mounting feet and will take some load off the 8 SST screws used to attach the locker to the mounting feet The cleat helps position the locker when installing, and will also keep the locker from sliding into the propeller shaft if for some reason the screws to the mounting feet break. See Photo (4).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Bottom Stop (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Attaching Mounting Feet To The Hull=<br />
<br />
The mounting feet are made from four 2x4’s cut about 8” long. They were attached to the bottom of the now complete locker then set in place to use as a template. I outlined the perimeter of each foot on the hull so I could see where to sand the hull to bare fiberglass. Then each area was sanded to bare fiberglass. See Photo (5).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Bare Fiberglass (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
The next step was to vacuum the area clean, then wipe with acetone to ensure a clean surface. To keep the locker from sliding out of place, I put 2 cinder blocks at the forward end of where the locker will be when complete. The blue painters tape was used to keep the thickened epoxy that squeezed out when the locker assembly was put in place from sticking to the hull. See Photos (6) and (7).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Acetone Wiped (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Cinder Blocks Limiting Movement (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
I then applied the West Systems Six10 to each foot, and lowered the locker into place. I laid a third cinder block into the locker to provide additional weight to ensure a good epoxy bond between the mounting feet and the hull. See Photo (8).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Cinder Block Weight (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
When the thickened epoxy hardened, I applied 4” strips of fiberglass tape to all sides of each of the mounting feet to add additional strength to the wood to hull joints. The top of the 2x4’s were coated with thinned resin to act as a barrier to moisture in addition to the paint that will be applied next. See Photo (9).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Feet Bonded To Hull 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Painted Mounting Feet and Hull=<br />
<br />
Photo (10) shows the mounting feet that have been epoxied and fiber glassed into the boat then painted with white BilgeKote.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Painted Mounts 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Removable Locker Installed=<br />
<br />
Photo (11) shows the new removable locker installed in the boat onto the mounting feet.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Installed 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Photo (12) shows the new removable locker installed with three of the four screws attaching the 2” galvanized angles removed. By removing three screws on each angle, the angle can be rotated out of the way instead of removed altogether. With the angles rotated out of the way, the fore and aft ends can now be folded down and out of the way for complete access propeller shaft, packing gland, and coupling, and strut bolts.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Ends Open (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Photos (13) and (14) show the view of the propeller shaft, packing gland, and coupling with the forward locker end folded down out of the way. On the left side of the photo you can also see the Strong-Tie on the port side of the locker.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:FWD View 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:FWD View 3 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Photos (15) and (16) show the view of the propeller shaft strut bolts with the aft locker end folded down out of the way. In Photo (15) you can see the Strong-Tie on the starboard side (left side in the photo) of the locker.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:AFT View 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:AFT View 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:AFT View 3 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Removable Locker Filled=<br />
<br />
With removable locker complete, the last step was to fill it up. To access the spare parts, I stand the starboard mattress half on its edge and lean it against the starboard hull. Then I lift the center edge of the port mattress section up about 18”, and slide the wood lid out of the way.<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows the locker filled up. Plumbing parts in the aft, electrical in the middle, and mechanical (raw water pump, alternator, foot pump, etc.) in the forward compartments.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Filled Locker 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Photo (19) shows the cover reinstalled.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Top Cover Installed (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=PDF of This Write-Up=<br />
<br />
I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format for reference. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Aft Cabin Spares Storage 01-26-22.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Aft_Cabin_Spare_Parts_Storage&diff=74411987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Aft Cabin Spare Parts Storage2022-01-27T05:35:12Z<p>Jon W: /* PDF of This Write-Up */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Storage=<br />
<br />
I purchased my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 in April 2015. A great boat, but usable storage from the factory is limited. Photo (1) shows the aft cabin and the two OEM removable hatches located there when the cushions are removed. I just completed a project creating a isolated compartment to store my tools under the small rectangular cover. That write up is also in the Tech WIKI in the “Storage” section.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:IMG_1388 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Spare parts storage separate from the living area lockers is a priority for me. The rectangular cover on the boat centerline under the aft cabin shown in photo (1) above, would be a good location for a spare parts locker. Access under the mattress is good, and I don’t expect to be looking for spare parts very often. The problem is there aren’t any bulkheads to keep things dry, in one place, and away from the propeller shaft. That’s what this project is about.<br />
<br />
=Materials Used=<br />
<br />
* West System #105 Epoxy Resin.<br />
* West System #205 Fast Hardener.<br />
* West System #27 Episize Biaxial Tape 4” x 10 foot roll.<br />
* West System Six10 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive.<br />
* ½” Plywood sanded both sides.<br />
* ¼” Plywood sanded both sides.<br />
* 1x10” Pine boards.<br />
* SST piano hinge.<br />
* 2 x 2” galvanized angle straps.<br />
* 2 x A23 galvanized Simpson Strong-Tie.<br />
* 16 x #8 x 2” long SST flat head screws.<br />
* 3 x #8 x 1 1/2” long SST flat head screws.<br />
* 4 x #8 x 1 1/4” long SST flat head screws.<br />
* 28 x #8 x ½” long SST pan head screws.<br />
* DAP white adhesive sealant silicone caulk.<br />
* White KILZ primer sealant paint.<br />
* White Interlux Bilgekote (YMA102) paint.<br />
* 3 x ~5 lb cinder blocks<br />
<br />
=Making the Spare Parts Locker=<br />
<br />
The locker needs to be removable when complete access for major work is needed. For regular maintenance tasks, it should also have a means to open the ends without removing the entire locker. This would provide access to the propeller shaft, packing gland, shaft log, and strut bolts.<br />
<br />
Locating the mounting feet in the right place, with good contact to the shape of the hull is important for a good solid bond, and being able to match the mounting feet to the bottom of the locker. To correctly locate the mounting feet, I decided to make the locker first. Then I could attach the feet to it with screws and epoxy bond the whole assembly to the hull ensuring a matched fit.<br />
<br />
The outside port/starboard width dimension of the locker is slightly less than the inside width of the opening in the boat. The outside fore and aft length dimension of the locker is from the inside edge of the aft opening to just aft of the shaft log. This allows access to see/touch the propeller shaft and packing gland for a visual check. With the length and width defined, creating the locker is a simple construction so I do not have detailed photos of the build process. The sides and ends are made from the 1x10” pine boards. The bottom is made from the ¾” plywood, and the partitions are made from the ¼” plywood. The partitions slide into pieces of pine blocks cut from pine board that I had in the garage. The groove for the partitions to slide in was cut with a table saw at a depth set about half the thickness of each block. See Photo (2).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Aft End (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
So the ends can move out of the way in case I needed to get to the propeller shaft, packing gland, or strut bolts, I attached the ends to the locker bottom with pieces of SST piano hinge I had from a previous project. The piano hinges allow the ends to rotate freely. (When the ends of the locker are rotated open, they defined where the partitions would be located). To hold the top of the ends in place when not rotated out of the way, I screwed 2” galvanized angle straps to each corner. For a belt and suspenders feature, I screwed one 90 degree galvanized Strong-Tie strap to each end of the locker to act as a stop. See Photo (3).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Port Side (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
The last safety feature was adding a cleat to the underside of the locker bottom. It rests against the forward mounting feet and will take some load off the 8 SST screws used to attach the locker to the mounting feet The cleat helps position the locker when installing, and will also keep the locker from sliding into the propeller shaft if for some reason the screws to the mounting feet break. See Photo (4).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Bottom Stop (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Attaching Mounting Feet To The Hull=<br />
<br />
The mounting feet are made from four 2x4’s cut about 8” long. They were attached to the bottom of the now complete locker then set in place to use as a template. I outlined the perimeter of each foot on the hull so I could see where to sand the hull to bare fiberglass. Then each area was sanded to bare fiberglass. See Photo (5).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Bare Fiberglass (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
The next step was to vacuum the area clean, then wipe with acetone to ensure a clean surface. To keep the locker from sliding out of place, I put 2 cinder blocks at the forward end of where the locker will be when complete. The blue painters tape was used to keep the thickened epoxy that squeezed out when the locker assembly was put in place from sticking to the hull. See Photos (6) and (7).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Acetone Wiped (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Cinder Blocks Limiting Movement (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
I then applied the West Systems Six10 to each foot, and lowered the locker into place. I laid a third cinder block into the locker to provide additional weight to ensure a good epoxy bond between the mounting feet and the hull. See Photo (8).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Cinder Block Weight (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
When the thickened epoxy hardened, I applied 4” strips of fiberglass tape to all sides of each of the mounting feet to add additional strength to the wood to hull joints. The top of the 2x4’s were coated with thinned resin to act as a barrier to moisture in addition to the paint that will be applied next. See Photo (9).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Feet Bonded To Hull 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Painted Mounting Feet and Hull=<br />
<br />
Photo (10) shows the mounting feet that have been epoxied and fiber glassed into the boat then painted with white BilgeKote.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Painted Mounts 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Removable Locker Installed=<br />
<br />
Photo (11) shows the new removable locker installed in the boat onto the mounting feet.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Installed 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Photo (12) shows the new removable locker installed with three of the four screws attaching the 2” galvanized angles removed. By removing three screws on each angle, the angle can be rotated out of the way instead of removed altogether. With the angles rotated out of the way, the fore and aft ends can now be folded down and out of the way for complete access propeller shaft, packing gland, and coupling, and strut bolts.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Ends Open (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Photos (13) and (14) show the view of the propeller shaft, packing gland, and coupling with the forward locker end folded down out of the way. On the left side of the photo you can also see the Strong-Tie on the port side of the locker.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:FWD View 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:FWD View 3 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Photos (15) and (16) show the view of the propeller shaft strut bolts with the aft locker end folded down out of the way. In Photo (15) you can see the Strong-Tie on the starboard side (left side in the photo) of the locker.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:AFT View 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:AFT View 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:AFT View 3 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Removable Locker Filled=<br />
<br />
With removable locker complete, the last step was to fill it up. To access the spare parts, I stand the starboard mattress half on its edge and lean it against the starboard hull. Then I lift the center edge of the port mattress section up about 18”, and slide the wood lid out of the way.<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows the locker filled up. Plumbing parts in the aft, electrical in the middle, and mechanical (raw water pump, alternator, foot pump, etc.) in the forward compartments.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Filled Locker 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Photo (19) shows the cover reinstalled.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Top Cover Installed (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=PDF of This Write-Up=<br />
<br />
I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format for reference. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Aft Cabin Spares Storage 01-26-22.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Aft_Cabin_Spares_Storage_01-26-22.pdf&diff=7440File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Aft Cabin Spares Storage 01-26-22.pdf2022-01-27T05:35:00Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
<hr />
<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Aft_Cabin_Spare_Parts_Storage&diff=74391987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Aft Cabin Spare Parts Storage2022-01-27T05:32:37Z<p>Jon W: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Storage=<br />
<br />
I purchased my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 in April 2015. A great boat, but usable storage from the factory is limited. Photo (1) shows the aft cabin and the two OEM removable hatches located there when the cushions are removed. I just completed a project creating a isolated compartment to store my tools under the small rectangular cover. That write up is also in the Tech WIKI in the “Storage” section.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:IMG_1388 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Spare parts storage separate from the living area lockers is a priority for me. The rectangular cover on the boat centerline under the aft cabin shown in photo (1) above, would be a good location for a spare parts locker. Access under the mattress is good, and I don’t expect to be looking for spare parts very often. The problem is there aren’t any bulkheads to keep things dry, in one place, and away from the propeller shaft. That’s what this project is about.<br />
<br />
=Materials Used=<br />
<br />
* West System #105 Epoxy Resin.<br />
* West System #205 Fast Hardener.<br />
* West System #27 Episize Biaxial Tape 4” x 10 foot roll.<br />
* West System Six10 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive.<br />
* ½” Plywood sanded both sides.<br />
* ¼” Plywood sanded both sides.<br />
* 1x10” Pine boards.<br />
* SST piano hinge.<br />
* 2 x 2” galvanized angle straps.<br />
* 2 x A23 galvanized Simpson Strong-Tie.<br />
* 16 x #8 x 2” long SST flat head screws.<br />
* 3 x #8 x 1 1/2” long SST flat head screws.<br />
* 4 x #8 x 1 1/4” long SST flat head screws.<br />
* 28 x #8 x ½” long SST pan head screws.<br />
* DAP white adhesive sealant silicone caulk.<br />
* White KILZ primer sealant paint.<br />
* White Interlux Bilgekote (YMA102) paint.<br />
* 3 x ~5 lb cinder blocks<br />
<br />
=Making the Spare Parts Locker=<br />
<br />
The locker needs to be removable when complete access for major work is needed. For regular maintenance tasks, it should also have a means to open the ends without removing the entire locker. This would provide access to the propeller shaft, packing gland, shaft log, and strut bolts.<br />
<br />
Locating the mounting feet in the right place, with good contact to the shape of the hull is important for a good solid bond, and being able to match the mounting feet to the bottom of the locker. To correctly locate the mounting feet, I decided to make the locker first. Then I could attach the feet to it with screws and epoxy bond the whole assembly to the hull ensuring a matched fit.<br />
<br />
The outside port/starboard width dimension of the locker is slightly less than the inside width of the opening in the boat. The outside fore and aft length dimension of the locker is from the inside edge of the aft opening to just aft of the shaft log. This allows access to see/touch the propeller shaft and packing gland for a visual check. With the length and width defined, creating the locker is a simple construction so I do not have detailed photos of the build process. The sides and ends are made from the 1x10” pine boards. The bottom is made from the ¾” plywood, and the partitions are made from the ¼” plywood. The partitions slide into pieces of pine blocks cut from pine board that I had in the garage. The groove for the partitions to slide in was cut with a table saw at a depth set about half the thickness of each block. See Photo (2).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Aft End (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
So the ends can move out of the way in case I needed to get to the propeller shaft, packing gland, or strut bolts, I attached the ends to the locker bottom with pieces of SST piano hinge I had from a previous project. The piano hinges allow the ends to rotate freely. (When the ends of the locker are rotated open, they defined where the partitions would be located). To hold the top of the ends in place when not rotated out of the way, I screwed 2” galvanized angle straps to each corner. For a belt and suspenders feature, I screwed one 90 degree galvanized Strong-Tie strap to each end of the locker to act as a stop. See Photo (3).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Port Side (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
The last safety feature was adding a cleat to the underside of the locker bottom. It rests against the forward mounting feet and will take some load off the 8 SST screws used to attach the locker to the mounting feet The cleat helps position the locker when installing, and will also keep the locker from sliding into the propeller shaft if for some reason the screws to the mounting feet break. See Photo (4).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Bottom Stop (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=Attaching Mounting Feet To The Hull=<br />
<br />
The mounting feet are made from four 2x4’s cut about 8” long. They were attached to the bottom of the now complete locker then set in place to use as a template. I outlined the perimeter of each foot on the hull so I could see where to sand the hull to bare fiberglass. Then each area was sanded to bare fiberglass. See Photo (5).<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Bare Fiberglass (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
The next step was to vacuum the area clean, then wipe with acetone to ensure a clean surface. To keep the locker from sliding out of place, I put 2 cinder blocks at the forward end of where the locker will be when complete. The blue painters tape was used to keep the thickened epoxy that squeezed out when the locker assembly was put in place from sticking to the hull. See Photos (6) and (7).<br />
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'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Acetone Wiped (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Cinder Blocks Limiting Movement (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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I then applied the West Systems Six10 to each foot, and lowered the locker into place. I laid a third cinder block into the locker to provide additional weight to ensure a good epoxy bond between the mounting feet and the hull. See Photo (8).<br />
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'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Cinder Block Weight (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
When the thickened epoxy hardened, I applied 4” strips of fiberglass tape to all sides of each of the mounting feet to add additional strength to the wood to hull joints. The top of the 2x4’s were coated with thinned resin to act as a barrier to moisture in addition to the paint that will be applied next. See Photo (9).<br />
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'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Feet Bonded To Hull 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Painted Mounting Feet and Hull=<br />
<br />
Photo (10) shows the mounting feet that have been epoxied and fiber glassed into the boat then painted with white BilgeKote.<br />
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'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Painted Mounts 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Removable Locker Installed=<br />
<br />
Photo (11) shows the new removable locker installed in the boat onto the mounting feet.<br />
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'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Installed 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (12) shows the new removable locker installed with three of the four screws attaching the 2” galvanized angles removed. By removing three screws on each angle, the angle can be rotated out of the way instead of removed altogether. With the angles rotated out of the way, the fore and aft ends can now be folded down and out of the way for complete access propeller shaft, packing gland, and coupling, and strut bolts.<br />
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'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Ends Open (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (13) and (14) show the view of the propeller shaft, packing gland, and coupling with the forward locker end folded down out of the way. On the left side of the photo you can also see the Strong-Tie on the port side of the locker.<br />
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'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:FWD View 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:FWD View 3 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photos (15) and (16) show the view of the propeller shaft strut bolts with the aft locker end folded down out of the way. In Photo (15) you can see the Strong-Tie on the starboard side (left side in the photo) of the locker.<br />
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'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:AFT View 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:AFT View 2 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:AFT View 3 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Removable Locker Filled=<br />
<br />
With removable locker complete, the last step was to fill it up. To access the spare parts, I stand the starboard mattress half on its edge and lean it against the starboard hull. Then I lift the center edge of the port mattress section up about 18”, and slide the wood lid out of the way.<br />
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Photo (18) shows the locker filled up. Plumbing parts in the aft, electrical in the middle, and mechanical (raw water pump, alternator, foot pump, etc.) in the forward compartments.<br />
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'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Filled Locker 1 (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (19) shows the cover reinstalled.<br />
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'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Top Cover Installed (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=PDF of This Write-Up=<br />
<br />
I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format for reference. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Aft Cabin Spares Storage 02-20-18.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Dual_Tank_Propane_Locker&diff=74371987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Dual Tank Propane Locker2021-08-19T21:44:22Z<p>Jon W: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Original Propane System Description=<br />
<br />
I purchased my Catalina 34 in April 2015. She is a 1987 MK1, hull #493.<br />
<br />
My original propane system consisted of a single 4# (~ 1 gal) steel tank mounted in a vented Seward brand locker ~ 13” x 13” x 12 1/4” that provided propane to the galley stove only. It was the typical white plastic and blue top with upper and lower ¾” vent bosses and integral mounting feet (which were cracked) molded into it. The top was closed tight by 4 SST latches and a foam gasket. It contained the tank, a regulator and gauge connected directly to the tank, a solenoid activated by a 5 Amp circuit breaker on the Main Distribution Panel, two short hoses connecting everything together.<br />
<br />
The locker was mounted on the wood cover above the steering radial inside the aft lazarette. The propane hose from the galley stove connected to the locker via externally threaded bulkhead fittings. The solenoid wires exited the locker through a hole drilled into a plastic fitting with silicone used as the sealant around the wires. Two ¾” male thread/hose barb elbows connected the locker upper and lower vents to two thru hulls in the transom with ¾” hoses.<br />
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<br />
=Background=<br />
<br />
I am refitting my C34 for future short and extended cruising. I will use propane for the galley stove, and the small Magma grill I have mounted on the stern rail. Some questions I need to answer are should I have a tank and several disposable 1# bottles? What size tank? Where do I store the bottles? Are disposable 1# bottles the best way to provide propane to the grill?<br />
<br />
For tank sizing, Don Casey’s rule of thumb is that 1# of propane will last 1 person 1 week cooking three meals a day.<br />
<br />
After several iterations I decided to use an 11# low profile tank for the galley and add a 5# propane tank dedicated to the grill. I chose to use powder coated steel propane tanks manufactured by Manchester. I went with powder coated steel instead of aluminum because I couldn’t find a low profile (short) 10 or 11# aluminum tank, the powder coated steel tanks are much cheaper. I have strength concerns with the neck area on the fiberglass propane tanks so did not consider them at all.<br />
<br />
''FYI: My original tank was powder coated steel, and after 30 years in the sealed propane locker it still looked fine, so expect these to last at least as long as their certification.''<br />
<br />
This write up provides a summary of the propane system upgrade I did with photos, plus a parts list. I've numbered the photos to help with connecting the text to the associated photo. This was not a very complicated project. The most difficult step was matching the hull mating surface of the support structures to the hull. There was lots of trial and error. As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, and hose lengths I used may not work on your boat. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
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<br />
=Before Photos=<br />
<br />
The following photos show the boat '''before''' the propane system upgrade to help give you a perspective of my starting point. The text description for each group of photos is above them.<br />
<br />
Photo (1) is the original propane locker mounted on the wood cover above the steering radial. It provides great access to the tank, gauge, and regulator. Being in the center of the lazarette opening blocks access for additional storage space. Photo (2) shows the externally threaded bulkhead fitting on the starboard side of the propane locker that the hose to the galley stove connects to.<br />
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'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:Original Location (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Galley Hose Threads (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (3) shows a crack in the mounting foot of the locker, and you can see one of the four SST latches used to clamp the top to the locker. Also shown are the Manual Bilge Pump and Emergency Rudder Handles mounted to the top of the wood radial cover. These will be relocated to the aft vertical 2 x 6 when the locker is relocated in the new design. Photo (4) shows the upper and lower ¾” vent elbows and hoses.<br />
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'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Cracked Mounting Foot (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Vent Hoses (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (5) shows the vent hoses from the propane locker connecting to individual thru hulls in the transom. Photo (6) shows the solenoid wires exiting the locker through a hole drilled into a plastic fitting. Silicone was used to seal around the wires.<br />
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'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transom Vents (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Solenoid Wires Exit (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (7) shows the gasket on the underside of the propane locker top. Photo (8) shows the inside of the original propane locker. The propane tank is original to 1987 so no OPD valve and no way to refill it. Lots of threaded connections and there was always a propane smell inside the locker.<br />
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'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Lid Gasket (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Original Locker Internals (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (9) shows the propane hose from the locker connecting to the back of the galley stove.<br />
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'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Galley Stove Hose Connection (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
=The Design Goals=<br />
<br />
* Relocate the propane locker away from the center of the aft lazarette so the large space between the transom and the aft water tank on a MK 1 can be take advantage of for storage, access to the manual bilge pump, and access to the steering radial.<br />
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* Install an 11# low profile propane tank for the galley stove, and a separate 5# propane tank for the stern rail mounted Magma grill in the same vented propane locker.<br />
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* Design and build a dual propane tank locker that is gas tight and vents overboard per code.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Where To Install?=<br />
<br />
The port side of the lazarette would not work because the manual bilge pump and hoses are located there. On many MK1’s, the refrigerator compressor is mounted to the hull on the starboard side. In my case the refrigerator compressor is mounted under the starboard salon seat in the main cabin so the starboard side of the aft lazarette was clear except for the Rule 1500 bilge pump hose that attaches to a thru hull near the chain plate up high on the transom. The bilge hose was far enough outboard, so I chose to install the new dual tank propane locker on the starboard side of the aft lazarette. The locker opening will be as close to the opening of the aft lazarette as possible to make removing and replacing propane tanks easier.<br />
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<br />
=Propane Locker Mock Up=<br />
<br />
I decided where it will be installed, but still needed to answer:<br />
<br />
* What length, width, or height to make this new propane locker?<br />
<br />
* How to best orient the tanks inside the locker?<br />
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* How to make the top so it could be easily opened and capture the propane tanks so they would not rattle or move around while underway?<br />
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The height was limited to ensure a proper downward vent, and be able to remove and replace the 11# low profile propane tank which is ~ 12 ½” tall and ~12 1/4” in diameter at its’ widest point.<br />
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The length was limited to ensure the locker could be installed in one piece through the lazarette opening, once in the lazarette fit between the forward lazarette bulkhead and the angled transom, and be able to open the top of the propane locker so I could remove and replace the propane tanks when they needed to be refilled.<br />
<br />
The width was limited to ensure the assembled propane locker could be installed through the aft lazarette opening and slide it into place in one piece.<br />
<br />
Too many opportunities for error, so I made a mock up. I used foam board for the locker and support structure, and I used heavy construction paper to make both propane tanks. Photo (10) shows one of the many mock up versions of the locker with tanks installed.<br />
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'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Mock Up (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (11) shows the mock up installed when looking down into the center of the aft lazarette from the cockpit. You can see the radial cover, the tiller cap, and part of the manual bilge pump for reference.<br />
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'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Mock Up From Above.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (12) shows the final mock up with the mating surface between the top and the bottom changed to an angled surface. This change made it easier to remove both the top of the propane locker, and the propane tanks when it’s finally installed in the aft lazarrette.<br />
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'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Final Mock Up (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Support Structure=<br />
<br />
The length x width x height dimensions are now defined. I can now make the support structure from the mock up. For that I used ¾” plywood made into an “H” section. When the propane tanks are in the propane locker, they will be supported by the vertical legs. This will better carry the load directly to the hull. Photo (13) shows the dry test fit of the support structure before being epoxied and fiberglassed to the hull. The wood “L” shape that’s duct taped to the hull is helping to hold the structure in place. (not enough hands). The cockpit drain, 3” air vent, and bilge hose can also be seen in this photo.<br />
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'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Dry Fit (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (14) shows a close up of the clearance gap between the vertical leg and the starboard cockpit drain.<br />
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'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Space Between Cockpit Drain (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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After matching the support structure surface to the hull surface it was time to epoxy the structure into place. I first marked the hull where the structure would be attached, then sanded the hull to remove the coating on the hull. I sanded a large enough area to have raw fiberglass where the structure would be epoxied directly to the hull, plus room for the fiberglass cloth I will also be using to bond the structure to the hull.<br />
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To epoxy the structure I used West Systems 610 thickened epoxy adhesive. The fiberglass I used West Systems 105 Resin, 205 hardener, and medium-density (6oz.) fiberglass cloth cut into 4” strips. Photo (15) shows the support structure after being epoxied in place. The support structure also now has stringers epoxied and screwed in place along the top edge. These are for the shelf, and the propane locker to attach directly with thru bolts to the support structure.<br />
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'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Epoxied In Place (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (16) shows the support structure after being epoxied, glassed, and painted. The holes drilled in the stringers are for the shelf and propane locker attaching screws.<br />
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'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Epoxied Glassed and Painted (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (17) shows the new shelf the locker will sit on installed onto the support structure. The shelf is ½” plywood primed and painted with Interlux Brightside primer and topcoat white paint. It is attached with #10-32 flat head SST machine screws with SST flat washers and SST nyloc nuts on the underside.<br />
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'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Installed Shelf (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Propane Locker=<br />
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Using the mock up as the template, I made the locker using the glue and screw method with wood glue and #6 x 5/8” flat head SST wood screws. The general materials are as follows: <br />
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'''<big>BOTTOM</big>''' - The materials for the locker bottom assembly are:<br />
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* .25” plywood (which is .20” not .25”) for the sides, and bottom.<br />
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* 1x1’s used as stringers to attach the plywood surfaces together.<br />
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* A 2x4 to make the solenoid support, propane hose support.<br />
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* 1x5’s to increase the thickness along the top edge.<br />
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* .375” flat moulding for a sealing surface.<br />
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Once the locker was made I increased the vertical thickness along the top edge of the locker to ~ .70” using the 1x5 cut into pieces of 1.50”wide x .50” thick. The purpose for the increased thickness was to give the SST screws that will fasten the latches to the locker more solid wood material to bite into, to provide more surface for the .375” moulding to attach to, and to provide a surface for the vertical flange pieces in the propane locker top to seal against.<br />
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Photo (18) is the completed bottom of the locker and you can see:<br />
<br />
* The 1x1 stringers, the solenoid support bracket (with two diagonal holes), and the hole for the vapor tight seal for the wires next to it.<br />
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* In the lower left is the propane hose support to protect against the weight of the regulator attached to the tank causing the POL fitting to come loose. (may be unnecessary).<br />
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* On the bottom are two .25” plywood discs to hold the propane tank bottoms in place.<br />
* Along the upper side area is where I increased the thickness.<br />
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* The unpainted wood is the .375” thick moulding. I used polyurethane as a sealant instead of painting thinking it would provide a better, more durable sealing surface than paint.<br />
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* The hole in the bottom is for the .75” vent overboard. The two holes on the right side are for the vapor tight fittings to seal around the propane hoses as they enter the locker.<br />
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'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Inside Locker (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (19) is a similar view showing the completed locker bottom with both tanks, on/off solenoid, regulator, gauge, hoses, and vapor tight seals installed. It’s hard to see, but there is a drip loop in the wires from the solenoid to the vapor tight seal.<br />
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'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Inside (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (20) is an end view of the completed locker bottom with the tanks and components installed showing the vapor tight seals, propane hoses, and electrical wires from the solenoid.<br />
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'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:End View Without Top (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>TOP</big>''' - The materials for the top are:<br />
<br />
* .25” plywood (which is .20” not .25”) for the top surface and internal “guards” for lack of a better term.<br />
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* The sides of the top are made from 1 x 5 clear pine cut to dimensions to match the mock up.<br />
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* .75” plywood to capture the tank tops so they don’t move or rotate when installed.<br />
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Photo (21) is the completed top of the locker and you can see:<br />
<br />
* The .25” plywood (which is .20” not .25”) flanges attached to all four sides. They stick up ~ .50” above the sealing surface. When the top is installed, these flanges will stick into the locker bottom and provide a snug fit against the area I thickened to .70”, and in effect create another seal between the sides of the bottom and the top. Plus they act as a guide to help put the top on correctly in the dark.<br />
<br />
* The inner surface of the top are two .75” plywood discs that I hand routed the outer grooves to match the top of the propane tanks. With the tanks on the .25” rings attached to the locker bottom (see 3rd bullet above), these .75” discs will capture the top of the propane tanks to keep them from rattling and rotating. The center section is routed out for the OPD valve to have clearance when it is opened and the propane system is being used.<br />
<br />
*The foam seal is from Seward and used on their commercial product. It has an adhesive back that you remove and press it into place. Where I cut the gasket I used crazy glue gel to bond the ends together to try and keep a continuous seal. It is attached to the unpainted wood sides I made from the 1x5 clear pine. I used polyurethane to seal the wood instead of painting thinking it would provide a better, more durable bonding surface than paint.<br />
<br />
''FYI: To ensure I had a good sealing surface, I put a 75W light inside the locker with the wire passing through one of the holes. I clamped the top to the bottom with two beam clamps, taped over the holes for the propane hoses and electrical wires. I then turned out all lights in the garage and looked for light shining between the wood surface and the foam gasket. No light visible along the sealing surface means a good seal.''<br />
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'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Top Inside (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
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Photo (22) is a front view of the completed locker bottom with the top installed and clamped tight. There are four SST latches, two on the front and two on the back. They are the same type and brand as used on the original propane locker. Also notice the caution plaque on the top.<br />
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'''<big>(22)</big>''' [[File:Closed Locker Front (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (23) is a side view of the completed locker bottom with the top installed and clamped tight. This provides a view of the vapor tight fittings sealed around the propane hoses. The propane hose supplying the galley is on the right, and the propane hose supplying the grill is on the left.<br />
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'''<big>(23)</big>''' [[File:Closed Locker ISO (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=New Locker Installed=<br />
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Photo (24) shows the new propane locker installed into the aft lazarette.<br />
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'''<big>(24)</big>''' [[File:Propane Warning Label (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (25) shows another view of the new propane locker installed into the aft lazarette with the top off. The hose from the bottom of the locker to the transom thru hull is the .75” vent line overboard.<br />
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'''<big>(25)</big>''' [[File:Installed Locker With Vent Valve (resize).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (26) shows the propane hoses exiting the locker and turning before the transom. Each hose is in .75” split loom for added protection from chafe. The split loom is also intended to provide UV protection to the exposed propane hose supplying propane to the Magma grill low pressure regulator.<br />
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'''<big>(26)</big>''' [[File:Side View Hose Exits (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Hose Run To Externally Mounted BBQ Grill=<br />
<br />
Photo (27) shows the hose supplying propane to the low pressure regulator on the externally mounted Magma grill protected by the .75” split loom entering the vent hose through a 3” x 3”x 2” sanitation tee. The tee is tie wrapped into the 3” vent hose that runs from the deck mounted cowl vent, through the aft lazarette, to the engine compartment.<br />
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'''<big>(27)</big>''' [[File:BBQ Hose Enters Vent (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (28) shows the hose supplying propane to the low pressure regulator on the externally mounted Magma grill inside the .75” split loom exiting the vent cowl on the aft deck. The hose is then tie wrapped to the horizontal stern rail for support.<br />
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'''<big>(28)</big>''' [[File:BBQ hose Tied to Stern Rail (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (29) shows the propane hose attaching to the low pressure regulator on the rail mounted Magma grill.<br />
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'''<big>(29)</big>''' [[File:BBQ Grill Hose Connected (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Emergency Rudder and Manual Bilge Pump Handles=<br />
<br />
Photo (30) shows the wood flooring installed to protect the propane vent hose, cockpit drain hoses, and the raw water hose. The Emergency Rudder handle, the Manual Bilge Pump handle, and a small fire extinguisher are now mounted to the wood 2 x 6 that makes up the aft vertical surface of the radial cover. These were originally mounted on the top of the radial cover, as shown in the “Before “ photo (3). The Emergency Rudder is larger in diameter so I mounted it below the manual bilge pump handle. This orientation allows both to be seen from above. The Emergency Rudder handle is also labeled “Emergency Rudder”.<br />
<br />
'''<big>(30)</big>''' [[File:Center Photo (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=LPG Switch=<br />
<br />
The solenoid for the galley propane system is controlled from inside the cabin. I used a fused switch mounted above the main distribution panel to an ash fascia I installed for another project.<br />
<br />
Photo (31) gives an orientation of where the switch panel is located relative to the Navigation Station desk.<br />
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'''<big>(31)</big>''' [[File:Nav Station (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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The negative wire is labeled, and connects to the negative busbar behind the Main Distribution Panel. The positive wire is also labeled and runs from the solenoid in the propane locker to the fused switch labeled “Propane”. See Photo (32). The solenoid uses a 5A AGC (glass) type fuse mounted in the front panel of the switch panel.<br />
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'''<big>(32)</big>''' [[File:Propane Solenoid Switch (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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<br />
=Parts Used=<br />
<br />
I've attached a copy of the parts list in a PDF format. The parts list contains the part name and number. This is provided as a reference only, there are lots of choices out there.<br />
<br />
'''''CAUTION''' - The hose lengths provided are for my design and the hose run choices I made. They are provided as a reference only. Your lengths may differ, measure for your application.''<br />
<br />
[[:File:Propane Parts List 8-19-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
= Propane System Schematic=<br />
<br />
[[:File:Della Jean Propane Schematic Upgrade 5-25-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=PDF of This Write-Up=<br />
<br />
I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format for reference. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Catalina 34 2 Tank Propane Locker 05-26-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Propane_Parts_List_8-19-21.pdf&diff=7436File:Propane Parts List 8-19-21.pdf2021-08-19T21:43:54Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
<hr />
<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Dual_Tank_Propane_Locker&diff=74201987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Dual Tank Propane Locker2021-05-27T00:37:00Z<p>Jon W: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
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NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe.<br />
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=Original Propane System Description=<br />
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I purchased my Catalina 34 in April 2015. She is a 1987 MK1, hull #493.<br />
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My original propane system consisted of a single 4# (~ 1 gal) steel tank mounted in a vented Seward brand locker ~ 13” x 13” x 12 1/4” that provided propane to the galley stove only. It was the typical white plastic and blue top with upper and lower ¾” vent bosses and integral mounting feet (which were cracked) molded into it. The top was closed tight by 4 SST latches and a foam gasket. It contained the tank, a regulator and gauge connected directly to the tank, a solenoid activated by a 5 Amp circuit breaker on the Main Distribution Panel, two short hoses connecting everything together.<br />
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The locker was mounted on the wood cover above the steering radial inside the aft lazarette. The propane hose from the galley stove connected to the locker via externally threaded bulkhead fittings. The solenoid wires exited the locker through a hole drilled into a plastic fitting with silicone used as the sealant around the wires. Two ¾” male thread/hose barb elbows connected the locker upper and lower vents to two thru hulls in the transom with ¾” hoses.<br />
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=Background=<br />
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I am refitting my C34 for future short and extended cruising. I will use propane for the galley stove, and the small Magma grill I have mounted on the stern rail. Some questions I need to answer are should I have a tank and several disposable 1# bottles? What size tank? Where do I store the bottles? Are disposable 1# bottles the best way to provide propane to the grill?<br />
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For tank sizing, Don Casey’s rule of thumb is that 1# of propane will last 1 person 1 week cooking three meals a day.<br />
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After several iterations I decided to use an 11# low profile tank for the galley and add a 5# propane tank dedicated to the grill. I chose to use powder coated steel propane tanks manufactured by Manchester. I went with powder coated steel instead of aluminum because I couldn’t find a low profile (short) 10 or 11# aluminum tank, the powder coated steel tanks are much cheaper. I have strength concerns with the neck area on the fiberglass propane tanks so did not consider them at all.<br />
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''FYI: My original tank was powder coated steel, and after 30 years in the sealed propane locker it still looked fine, so expect these to last at least as long as their certification.''<br />
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This write up provides a summary of the propane system upgrade I did with photos, plus a parts list. I've numbered the photos to help with connecting the text to the associated photo. This was not a very complicated project. The most difficult step was matching the hull mating surface of the support structures to the hull. There was lots of trial and error. As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, and hose lengths I used may not work on your boat. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
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=Before Photos=<br />
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The following photos show the boat '''before''' the propane system upgrade to help give you a perspective of my starting point. The text description for each group of photos is above them.<br />
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Photo (1) is the original propane locker mounted on the wood cover above the steering radial. It provides great access to the tank, gauge, and regulator. Being in the center of the lazarette opening blocks access for additional storage space. Photo (2) shows the externally threaded bulkhead fitting on the starboard side of the propane locker that the hose to the galley stove connects to.<br />
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'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:Original Location (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Galley Hose Threads (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (3) shows a crack in the mounting foot of the locker, and you can see one of the four SST latches used to clamp the top to the locker. Also shown are the Manual Bilge Pump and Emergency Rudder Handles mounted to the top of the wood radial cover. These will be relocated to the aft vertical 2 x 6 when the locker is relocated in the new design. Photo (4) shows the upper and lower ¾” vent elbows and hoses.<br />
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'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Cracked Mounting Foot (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Vent Hoses (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (5) shows the vent hoses from the propane locker connecting to individual thru hulls in the transom. Photo (6) shows the solenoid wires exiting the locker through a hole drilled into a plastic fitting. Silicone was used to seal around the wires.<br />
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'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transom Vents (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Solenoid Wires Exit (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (7) shows the gasket on the underside of the propane locker top. Photo (8) shows the inside of the original propane locker. The propane tank is original to 1987 so no OPD valve and no way to refill it. Lots of threaded connections and there was always a propane smell inside the locker.<br />
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'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Lid Gasket (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Original Locker Internals (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (9) shows the propane hose from the locker connecting to the back of the galley stove.<br />
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'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Galley Stove Hose Connection (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=The Design Goals=<br />
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* Relocate the propane locker away from the center of the aft lazarette so the large space between the transom and the aft water tank on a MK 1 can be take advantage of for storage, access to the manual bilge pump, and access to the steering radial.<br />
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* Install an 11# low profile propane tank for the galley stove, and a separate 5# propane tank for the stern rail mounted Magma grill in the same vented propane locker.<br />
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* Design and build a dual propane tank locker that is gas tight and vents overboard per code.<br />
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=Where To Install?=<br />
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The port side of the lazarette would not work because the manual bilge pump and hoses are located there. On many MK1’s, the refrigerator compressor is mounted to the hull on the starboard side. In my case the refrigerator compressor is mounted under the starboard salon seat in the main cabin so the starboard side of the aft lazarette was clear except for the Rule 1500 bilge pump hose that attaches to a thru hull near the chain plate up high on the transom. The bilge hose was far enough outboard, so I chose to install the new dual tank propane locker on the starboard side of the aft lazarette. The locker opening will be as close to the opening of the aft lazarette as possible to make removing and replacing propane tanks easier.<br />
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=Propane Locker Mock Up=<br />
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I decided where it will be installed, but still needed to answer:<br />
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* What length, width, or height to make this new propane locker?<br />
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* How to best orient the tanks inside the locker?<br />
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* How to make the top so it could be easily opened and capture the propane tanks so they would not rattle or move around while underway?<br />
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The height was limited to ensure a proper downward vent, and be able to remove and replace the 11# low profile propane tank which is ~ 12 ½” tall and ~12 1/4” in diameter at its’ widest point.<br />
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The length was limited to ensure the locker could be installed in one piece through the lazarette opening, once in the lazarette fit between the forward lazarette bulkhead and the angled transom, and be able to open the top of the propane locker so I could remove and replace the propane tanks when they needed to be refilled.<br />
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The width was limited to ensure the assembled propane locker could be installed through the aft lazarette opening and slide it into place in one piece.<br />
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Too many opportunities for error, so I made a mock up. I used foam board for the locker and support structure, and I used heavy construction paper to make both propane tanks. Photo (10) shows one of the many mock up versions of the locker with tanks installed.<br />
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'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Mock Up (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (11) shows the mock up installed when looking down into the center of the aft lazarette from the cockpit. You can see the radial cover, the tiller cap, and part of the manual bilge pump for reference.<br />
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'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Mock Up From Above.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (12) shows the final mock up with the mating surface between the top and the bottom changed to an angled surface. This change made it easier to remove both the top of the propane locker, and the propane tanks when it’s finally installed in the aft lazarrette.<br />
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'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Final Mock Up (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Support Structure=<br />
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The length x width x height dimensions are now defined. I can now make the support structure from the mock up. For that I used ¾” plywood made into an “H” section. When the propane tanks are in the propane locker, they will be supported by the vertical legs. This will better carry the load directly to the hull. Photo (13) shows the dry test fit of the support structure before being epoxied and fiberglassed to the hull. The wood “L” shape that’s duct taped to the hull is helping to hold the structure in place. (not enough hands). The cockpit drain, 3” air vent, and bilge hose can also be seen in this photo.<br />
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'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Dry Fit (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (14) shows a close up of the clearance gap between the vertical leg and the starboard cockpit drain.<br />
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'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Space Between Cockpit Drain (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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After matching the support structure surface to the hull surface it was time to epoxy the structure into place. I first marked the hull where the structure would be attached, then sanded the hull to remove the coating on the hull. I sanded a large enough area to have raw fiberglass where the structure would be epoxied directly to the hull, plus room for the fiberglass cloth I will also be using to bond the structure to the hull.<br />
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To epoxy the structure I used West Systems 610 thickened epoxy adhesive. The fiberglass I used West Systems 105 Resin, 205 hardener, and medium-density (6oz.) fiberglass cloth cut into 4” strips. Photo (15) shows the support structure after being epoxied in place. The support structure also now has stringers epoxied and screwed in place along the top edge. These are for the shelf, and the propane locker to attach directly with thru bolts to the support structure.<br />
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'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Epoxied In Place (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (16) shows the support structure after being epoxied, glassed, and painted. The holes drilled in the stringers are for the shelf and propane locker attaching screws.<br />
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'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Epoxied Glassed and Painted (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (17) shows the new shelf the locker will sit on installed onto the support structure. The shelf is ½” plywood primed and painted with Interlux Brightside primer and topcoat white paint. It is attached with #10-32 flat head SST machine screws with SST flat washers and SST nyloc nuts on the underside.<br />
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'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Installed Shelf (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Propane Locker=<br />
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Using the mock up as the template, I made the locker using the glue and screw method with wood glue and #6 x 5/8” flat head SST wood screws. The general materials are as follows: <br />
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'''<big>BOTTOM</big>''' - The materials for the locker bottom assembly are:<br />
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* .25” plywood (which is .20” not .25”) for the sides, and bottom.<br />
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* 1x1’s used as stringers to attach the plywood surfaces together.<br />
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* A 2x4 to make the solenoid support, propane hose support.<br />
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* 1x5’s to increase the thickness along the top edge.<br />
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* .375” flat moulding for a sealing surface.<br />
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Once the locker was made I increased the vertical thickness along the top edge of the locker to ~ .70” using the 1x5 cut into pieces of 1.50”wide x .50” thick. The purpose for the increased thickness was to give the SST screws that will fasten the latches to the locker more solid wood material to bite into, to provide more surface for the .375” moulding to attach to, and to provide a surface for the vertical flange pieces in the propane locker top to seal against.<br />
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Photo (18) is the completed bottom of the locker and you can see:<br />
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* The 1x1 stringers, the solenoid support bracket (with two diagonal holes), and the hole for the vapor tight seal for the wires next to it.<br />
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* In the lower left is the propane hose support to protect against the weight of the regulator attached to the tank causing the POL fitting to come loose. (may be unnecessary).<br />
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* On the bottom are two .25” plywood discs to hold the propane tank bottoms in place.<br />
* Along the upper side area is where I increased the thickness.<br />
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* The unpainted wood is the .375” thick moulding. I used polyurethane as a sealant instead of painting thinking it would provide a better, more durable sealing surface than paint.<br />
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* The hole in the bottom is for the .75” vent overboard. The two holes on the right side are for the vapor tight fittings to seal around the propane hoses as they enter the locker.<br />
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'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Inside Locker (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (19) is a similar view showing the completed locker bottom with both tanks, on/off solenoid, regulator, gauge, hoses, and vapor tight seals installed. It’s hard to see, but there is a drip loop in the wires from the solenoid to the vapor tight seal.<br />
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'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Inside (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (20) is an end view of the completed locker bottom with the tanks and components installed showing the vapor tight seals, propane hoses, and electrical wires from the solenoid.<br />
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'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:End View Without Top (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>TOP</big>''' - The materials for the top are:<br />
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* .25” plywood (which is .20” not .25”) for the top surface and internal “guards” for lack of a better term.<br />
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* The sides of the top are made from 1 x 5 clear pine cut to dimensions to match the mock up.<br />
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* .75” plywood to capture the tank tops so they don’t move or rotate when installed.<br />
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Photo (21) is the completed top of the locker and you can see:<br />
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* The .25” plywood (which is .20” not .25”) flanges attached to all four sides. They stick up ~ .50” above the sealing surface. When the top is installed, these flanges will stick into the locker bottom and provide a snug fit against the area I thickened to .70”, and in effect create another seal between the sides of the bottom and the top. Plus they act as a guide to help put the top on correctly in the dark.<br />
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* The inner surface of the top are two .75” plywood discs that I hand routed the outer grooves to match the top of the propane tanks. With the tanks on the .25” rings attached to the locker bottom (see 3rd bullet above), these .75” discs will capture the top of the propane tanks to keep them from rattling and rotating. The center section is routed out for the OPD valve to have clearance when it is opened and the propane system is being used.<br />
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*The foam seal is from Seward and used on their commercial product. It has an adhesive back that you remove and press it into place. Where I cut the gasket I used crazy glue gel to bond the ends together to try and keep a continuous seal. It is attached to the unpainted wood sides I made from the 1x5 clear pine. I used polyurethane to seal the wood instead of painting thinking it would provide a better, more durable bonding surface than paint.<br />
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''FYI: To ensure I had a good sealing surface, I put a 75W light inside the locker with the wire passing through one of the holes. I clamped the top to the bottom with two beam clamps, taped over the holes for the propane hoses and electrical wires. I then turned out all lights in the garage and looked for light shining between the wood surface and the foam gasket. No light visible along the sealing surface means a good seal.''<br />
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'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Top Inside (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (22) is a front view of the completed locker bottom with the top installed and clamped tight. There are four SST latches, two on the front and two on the back. They are the same type and brand as used on the original propane locker. Also notice the caution plaque on the top.<br />
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'''<big>(22)</big>''' [[File:Closed Locker Front (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (23) is a side view of the completed locker bottom with the top installed and clamped tight. This provides a view of the vapor tight fittings sealed around the propane hoses. The propane hose supplying the galley is on the right, and the propane hose supplying the grill is on the left.<br />
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'''<big>(23)</big>''' [[File:Closed Locker ISO (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=New Locker Installed=<br />
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Photo (24) shows the new propane locker installed into the aft lazarette.<br />
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'''<big>(24)</big>''' [[File:Propane Warning Label (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (25) shows another view of the new propane locker installed into the aft lazarette with the top off. The hose from the bottom of the locker to the transom thru hull is the .75” vent line overboard.<br />
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'''<big>(25)</big>''' [[File:Installed Locker With Vent Valve (resize).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (26) shows the propane hoses exiting the locker and turning before the transom. Each hose is in .75” split loom for added protection from chafe. The split loom is also intended to provide UV protection to the exposed propane hose supplying propane to the Magma grill low pressure regulator.<br />
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'''<big>(26)</big>''' [[File:Side View Hose Exits (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Hose Run To Externally Mounted BBQ Grill=<br />
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Photo (27) shows the hose supplying propane to the low pressure regulator on the externally mounted Magma grill protected by the .75” split loom entering the vent hose through a 3” x 3”x 2” sanitation tee. The tee is tie wrapped into the 3” vent hose that runs from the deck mounted cowl vent, through the aft lazarette, to the engine compartment.<br />
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'''<big>(27)</big>''' [[File:BBQ Hose Enters Vent (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (28) shows the hose supplying propane to the low pressure regulator on the externally mounted Magma grill inside the .75” split loom exiting the vent cowl on the aft deck. The hose is then tie wrapped to the horizontal stern rail for support.<br />
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'''<big>(28)</big>''' [[File:BBQ hose Tied to Stern Rail (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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Photo (29) shows the propane hose attaching to the low pressure regulator on the rail mounted Magma grill.<br />
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'''<big>(29)</big>''' [[File:BBQ Grill Hose Connected (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Emergency Rudder and Manual Bilge Pump Handles=<br />
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Photo (30) shows the wood flooring installed to protect the propane vent hose, cockpit drain hoses, and the raw water hose. The Emergency Rudder handle, the Manual Bilge Pump handle, and a small fire extinguisher are now mounted to the wood 2 x 6 that makes up the aft vertical surface of the radial cover. These were originally mounted on the top of the radial cover, as shown in the “Before “ photo (3). The Emergency Rudder is larger in diameter so I mounted it below the manual bilge pump handle. This orientation allows both to be seen from above. The Emergency Rudder handle is also labeled “Emergency Rudder”.<br />
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'''<big>(30)</big>''' [[File:Center Photo (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=LPG Switch=<br />
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The solenoid for the galley propane system is controlled from inside the cabin. I used a fused switch mounted above the main distribution panel to an ash fascia I installed for another project.<br />
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Photo (31) gives an orientation of where the switch panel is located relative to the Navigation Station desk.<br />
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'''<big>(31)</big>''' [[File:Nav Station (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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The negative wire is labeled, and connects to the negative busbar behind the Main Distribution Panel. The positive wire is also labeled and runs from the solenoid in the propane locker to the fused switch labeled “Propane”. See Photo (32). The solenoid uses a 5A AGC (glass) type fuse mounted in the front panel of the switch panel.<br />
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'''<big>(32)</big>''' [[File:Propane Solenoid Switch (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
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=Parts Used=<br />
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I've attached a copy of the parts list in a PDF format. The parts list contains the part name and number. This is provided as a reference only, there are lots of choices out there.<br />
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'''''CAUTION''' - The hose lengths provided are for my design and the hose run choices I made. They are provided as a reference only. Your lengths may differ, measure for your application.''<br />
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[[:File:Propane Parts List 5-22-21.pdf]]<br />
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= Propane System Schematic=<br />
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[[:File:Della Jean Propane Schematic Upgrade 5-25-21.pdf]]<br />
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=PDF of This Write-Up=<br />
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I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format for reference. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
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[[:File:Catalina 34 2 Tank Propane Locker 05-26-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Catalina_34_2_Tank_Propane_Locker_05-26-21.pdf&diff=7419File:Catalina 34 2 Tank Propane Locker 05-26-21.pdf2021-05-27T00:36:52Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Della_Jean_Propane_Schematic_Upgrade_5-25-21.pdf&diff=7418File:Della Jean Propane Schematic Upgrade 5-25-21.pdf2021-05-27T00:36:18Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Propane_Parts_List_5-22-21.pdf&diff=7417File:Propane Parts List 5-22-21.pdf2021-05-27T00:35:50Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Propane_Solenoid_Switch_(resized).jpg&diff=7416File:Propane Solenoid Switch (resized).jpg2021-05-27T00:34:45Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Nav_Station_(resized).jpg&diff=7415File:Nav Station (resized).jpg2021-05-27T00:33:57Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Center_Photo_(resized).jpg&diff=7414File:Center Photo (resized).jpg2021-05-27T00:32:08Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=73611987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2021-02-10T18:25:28Z<p>Jon W: </p>
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<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
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NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
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==Background==<br />
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I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
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The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
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As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
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==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
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Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
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Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1amp/hour. I added some margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
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I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photos (19) and (20) show screen shots from my phone at the initial start up of the Port and the Starboard MPPT charge controller displays. The system is putting 7.8A from the Port panel plus 7.2A from the Starboard panel for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
With the project completed, Photos (21) and (22) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Port LKG AFT (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(22)</big>''' [[File:Stbd LKG AFT (resized).jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-10-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels_02-10-21.pdf&diff=7360File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-10-21.pdf2021-02-10T18:24:34Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
<hr />
<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Stbd_LKG_AFT_(resized).jpg&diff=7359File:Stbd LKG AFT (resized).jpg2021-02-10T18:23:52Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
<hr />
<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Port_LKG_AFT_(resized).jpg&diff=7358File:Port LKG AFT (resized).jpg2021-02-10T18:23:30Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
<hr />
<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=73571987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2021-02-09T01:04:35Z<p>Jon W: /* Reference PDF’s For This Project */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
<br />
The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
<br />
As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
<br />
Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1amp/hour. I added some margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
<br />
I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photos (19) and (20) show screen shots from my phone at the initial start up of the Port and the Starboard MPPT charge controller displays. The system is putting 7.8A from the Port panel plus 7.2A from the Starboard panel for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
With the project completed, Photos (21) and (22) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(22)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-08-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels_02-08-21.pdf&diff=7356File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-08-21.pdf2021-02-09T01:04:13Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
<hr />
<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=73551987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2021-02-09T01:03:34Z<p>Jon W: /* Bluetooth Screen Shots */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
<br />
The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
<br />
As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
<br />
Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1amp/hour. I added some margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
<br />
I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photos (19) and (20) show screen shots from my phone at the initial start up of the Port and the Starboard MPPT charge controller displays. The system is putting 7.8A from the Port panel plus 7.2A from the Starboard panel for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
With the project completed, Photos (21) and (22) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(22)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-06-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=73541987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2021-02-08T00:16:49Z<p>Jon W: /* Bluetooth Screen Shots */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
<br />
The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
<br />
As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
<br />
Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1amp/hour. I added some margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
<br />
I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (19) shows screen shots of the Port and Starboard MPPT charge controller displays from my phone at the initial start up. They are putting 7.8A plus 7.2A for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]] [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
With the project completed, Photos (20) and (21) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-06-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=73531987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2021-02-08T00:16:10Z<p>Jon W: /* Bluetooth Screen Shots */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
<br />
The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
<br />
As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
<br />
Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1amp/hour. I added some margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
<br />
I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (19) shows screen shots of the Port and Starboard MPPT charge controller displays from my phone at the initial start up. They are putting 7.8A plus 7.2A for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]] [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
With the project completed, Photos (20) and (21) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-06-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical&diff=7352Electrical2021-02-07T00:28:46Z<p>Jon W: /* Solar Energy */</p>
<hr />
<div>Modern gear such as refrigeration, chartplotters, radar and computers require a well sized and maintained 12v system. These articles also include important SAFETY items. Also read the [https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html '''CRITICAL UPGRADES'''] topic on the Forum. <br />
<br />
== Alternators and Battery Chargers ==<br />
*<font color=red>''See also: ''</font color>[[Diesel_Engine#Electrical|Engine Electrical]] <small>(takes you to another section)</small><br />
*[https://c34.org/wiki/images/b/be/PP1154_Flowchart.pdf Prestolite's Alternator Troubleshooting Flow Chart] <small>KWKloeber 8/9/20</small><br />
*[[Q&A All About Alternator Belts & Pulleys|All about alternator belt tension & pulleys Q&A]]<br><br />
*[[M-25 Alternator Mount Conversion Kit "B/M 256891"|Alternator mount/bracket upgrade]] <font color=red>''Important safety upgrade for M25 (not XP) owners'' </font color><br><br />
*[[Everything you always wanted to know about Xantrex battery chargers|Battery charger discussion & Xantrex product evaluation]] by John Nixon<br><br />
*[[Considerations on the installation of the Xantrex XC3012|In-depth considerations on the Xantrex XC3012 battery charger and installation]] <br><br />
*[[Tachometer Malfunction Q&A]]<br />
*[[Mounting a Truecharge Battery Charger Under the Galley Sink|Truecharge battery charger installation]] under the sink on a Mk II<br><br />
*[[Alternator Regulator Wiring Diagrams]]<br><br />
<br />
== Batteries ==<br />
*[[The Ultimate Electrical System Upgrade? Beat This!|Benefits of 6v golf cart batteries]]<br><br />
*[[C34 Battery Selection|Detailed discussion of battery types]] by Jim Moe<br><br />
*[[Battery Monitoring|Battery monitor placement]]<br />
*[[Deep Cycle Battery FAQs from Northern Arizona Wind and Sun]]<br />
*[[Recharging Dead Batteries]]<br />
*[http://c34.org/wiki/images/4/44/SmartGauge_Electronics_-_Interconnecting_multiple_batteries_to_form_one_larger_bank.pdf How to properly connect multiple batteries into one bank.] (PDF) By Chris Gibson, inventor of the SmartGauge --[[User:Kloebereng|KWKloeber]] 12/10/18<br />
<br />
== Electrical Panel, Wiring & Lighting ==<br />
*[[AC Panel Lights|Adding AC panel lights]] for readability at a distance <br><br />
*[[Bow and Stern Navigation Light Replacement]]<br />
*[[Cabin Lights: Where to look if they don't work, tips on troubleshooting|Cabin lights -troubleshooting]]<br><br />
*[[Diagnosing Dim Nav Lights]]<br><br />
*[[Building a New Electrical Control Panel|Electrical panel]]: Designing and building a new one by Mike Vaccaro<br><br />
*[[Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade|Electrical system upgrade]]: A comprehensive electrical system upgrade by Jim Moe<br><br />
*[[Electrical System 101 - Good LINKS from the Message Board|Electrical System 101]]: Comprehensive electrical system BASICS by Stu Jackson http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html<br><br />
*[[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]]: Winter 2015-6 - A very thorough redesign of a Mark I system by Jon Windt, s/v Della Jean<br />
*[[12 VDC Electrical System Upgrade – Winter 2003|Electrical system upgrade]] by John Gardner (includes pictures of 6V batteries)<br><br />
*[[Electrical System Upgrade - Yorkshire Rose|Electrical system upgrade]]: Another perspective by Mark Elkin<br><br />
*[[Wiring Diagram with Four 6V Golf Cart Batteries & Separate Starting Battery|Electrical system upgrade]] by Capt. Al<br><br />
*[[Wiring Diagram with 4 6v golf cart batteries and starting battery on Luna Loca]]<br />
*[[Engine Harness Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade:]] A comprehensive overview by Gerry Douglas <font color=red> ''Important WARNING for M25 owners''</font color><br><br />
*[[M25 (not the XP) Engine Harness Warning/Upgrade|Engine harness upgrade]] by Capt. Al<br><br />
*[[Engine Panel Wiring Diagrams]]<br><br />
*[[Installing a Galley Light|Galley light installation]]<br><br />
*[[Fabricating & Installing Teak-Mounted 12v Halogen Light|Galley light mounts]]<br><br />
*[[Faster, More Efficient Glow Plug Heating with a Solenoid|Glow plug solenoid Installation]] for faster starting<br><br />
*[[Painted Rocker Switches|Panel switch telltales:]] How to tell the on/off state of panel switches from a distance<br><br />
*[[Unswitched 12V Power|Unswitched 12V wiring instructions]]<br><br />
<br />
== Generators ==<br />
*[[Wind Generator Point of View|Wind generator POV]]<br><br />
<br />
==Inverters==<br />
*[[Freedom 20 Inverter Installation: Two (Similar) Approaches|Freedom 20 installation]]<br><br />
<br />
==Lightning==<br />
*[[Quickie Lightning Protection|Quickie lightning protection]]<br><br />
<br />
==Solar Energy==<br />
* [[Solar Power|400 Watt Bimini]] <br><br />
* [[Flexible solar panels]]<br />
*[[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels]]<br />
<br />
==Starters==<br />
*[[How to Add a Secondary Starting Switch in the Engine Box|Secondary start switch]]<br><br />
*[[Slow or Difficult to Start Universal M-25XP Engine|Slow start fix]] with a wiring upgrade, starter re-build, and new starting battery by Mike Vaccaro <br><br />
<br />
==Items of Interest==<br />
There are over 75 [http://c34.org/tech-notes-index/index.htm Tech Notes] on these subjects.<br /><br />
*[[(Moisture-proof) Alternative to open-type terminal strips]] <small>--added by [[User:Kloebereng|KWKloeber]] 9 May 2015</small></div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=73511987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2021-02-07T00:27:03Z<p>Jon W: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
<br />
The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
<br />
As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
<br />
Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1amp/hour. I added some margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
<br />
I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (19) shows screen shots of the Port and Starboard MPPT charge controller displays from my phone at the initial start up. They are putting 7.8A plus 7.2A for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]] [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
With the project completed, Photos (20) and (21) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-06-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=73501987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2021-02-07T00:22:06Z<p>Jon W: /* Wiring The Solar Panels */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
<br />
The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
<br />
As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
<br />
Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1amp/hour. I added some margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
<br />
I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (19) shows screen shots of the Port and Starboard MPPT charge controller displays from my phone at the initial start up. They are putting 7.8A plus 7.2A for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]] [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
With the project completed, Photos (20) and (21) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-06-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Battery_Sense_Installed.JPG&diff=7349File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG2021-02-07T00:21:57Z<p>Jon W: Jon W uploaded a new version of File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG</p>
<hr />
<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=73481987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2021-02-07T00:19:46Z<p>Jon W: /* Wiring The Solar Panels */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
<br />
The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
<br />
As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
<br />
Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1amp/hour. I added some margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
<br />
I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
<br />
Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (19) shows screen shots of the Port and Starboard MPPT charge controller displays from my phone at the initial start up. They are putting 7.8A plus 7.2A for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]] [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
<br />
With the project completed, Photos (20) and (21) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
<br />
[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-06-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Battery_Sense_Installed_1.JPG&diff=7347File:Battery Sense Installed 1.JPG2021-02-07T00:19:37Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
<hr />
<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=73461987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2021-02-07T00:06:50Z<p>Jon W: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
<br />
NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
<br />
The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
<br />
As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
<br />
Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1amp/hour. I added some margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
<br />
I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
<br />
For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
<br />
I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
<br />
To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
<br />
To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
<br />
The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
<br />
Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
<br />
''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
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<br />
The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
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'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
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The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
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'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
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From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
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'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
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'''<big>(13)</big>''' [[File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (14) shows a close up of the bulkhead between the aft cabin and the galley. The propane hose exits the left split loom and passes thru a hole in the bulkhead to the back of the stove. The solar panel wires exit the right split loom and pass thru the gap between the hull and bulkhead. The wires continue between the liner behind the stove and the hull exiting past the refrigerator.<br />
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'''<big>(14)</big>''' [[File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Once past the refrigerator, the wires run behind the breadboard by the starboard water tank. I epoxied the breadboard to the hull during my 2016 electrical system upgrade leaving space for future solar charge controllers. Photo (15) shows the breadboard with my Digital Echo Charger used for charging the reserve battery, and the space to the left for the charge controllers.<br />
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'''<big>(15)</big>''' [[File:Breadboard 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (16) shows the charge controllers mounted to the breadboard with the completed wiring labeled. The port panel charge controller is on the left, and the starboard panel charge controller is on the right. The blue lights on the charge controllers signify Bluetooth enabled and the charge controllers are ready to go.<br />
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'''<big>(16)</big>''' [[File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Monitoring battery temperature and voltage is important for proper and safe charging. I’ve done this with the Bluetooth enabled Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor from Victron Energy. The small blue square in Photo (17) is the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor connected to the House Bank and mounted to a battery in the battery compartment.<br />
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'''<big>(17)</big>''' [[File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
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==Bluetooth Screen Shots==<br />
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Photo (18) shows a screen shot of the Smart Battery Sense Temperature/Voltage Sensor display on my phone at initial start up.<br />
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'''<big>(18)</big>''' [[File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (19) shows screen shots of the Port and Starboard MPPT charge controller displays from my phone at the initial start up. They are putting 7.8A plus 7.2A for a total of 15A into the battery bank. 5 1/2 hours at that level and my 24 hour amperage usage is covered. The screen shots were taken when my batteries were close to fully charged, moderate sun with some clouds.<br />
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'''<big>(19)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel.PNG|400px]] [[File:Starboard Panel.PNG|400px]]<br />
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With the project completed, Photos (20) and (21) show what the bimini and connector with both solar panels installed looks like from different angles. The two 175W solar panels are almost invisible.<br />
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'''<big>(20)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(21)</big>''' [[File:Della Jean With Panels 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
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==Reference PDF’s For This Project==<br />
<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of the parts I used for this project in PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
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[[:File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf]]<br />
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For reference, I've attached a copy of the electrical schematic of the system in PDF format.<br />
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[[:File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf]]<br />
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<br />
For reference, I've attached a copy of this complete write-up in a PDF format. All links have been removed from the PDF.<br />
<br />
[[:File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-06-21.pdf]]</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels_02-06-21.pdf&diff=7345File:1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels 02-06-21.pdf2021-02-07T00:06:04Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Solar_Panel_Schematic_02-04-21.pdf&diff=7344File:Solar Panel Schematic 02-04-21.pdf2021-02-07T00:04:09Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Solar_Parts_List_1-26-21.pdf&diff=7343File:Solar Parts List 1-26-21.pdf2021-02-07T00:03:28Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Della_Jean_With_Panels_2.JPG&diff=7342File:Della Jean With Panels 2.JPG2021-02-07T00:02:21Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Della_Jean_With_Panels_1.JPG&diff=7341File:Della Jean With Panels 1.JPG2021-02-07T00:01:57Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Starboard_Panel.PNG&diff=7340File:Starboard Panel.PNG2021-02-07T00:00:20Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Port_Panel.PNG&diff=7339File:Port Panel.PNG2021-02-06T23:59:51Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Smart_Battery_Sense.PNG&diff=7338File:Smart Battery Sense.PNG2021-02-06T23:59:19Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Battery_Sense_Installed.JPG&diff=7337File:Battery Sense Installed.JPG2021-02-06T23:57:30Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Charge_Controllers_1.JPG&diff=7336File:Charge Controllers 1.JPG2021-02-06T23:55:55Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Breadboard_1.JPG&diff=7335File:Breadboard 1.JPG2021-02-06T23:54:11Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Wiring_and_Propane_Thru_Bulkhead_2.JPG&diff=7334File:Wiring and Propane Thru Bulkhead 2.JPG2021-02-06T23:52:19Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Panel_Wiring_and_Propane.JPG&diff=7333File:Panel Wiring and Propane.JPG2021-02-06T23:50:32Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=1987_MK_1_Catalina_34_Adding_Solar_Panels&diff=73321987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Adding Solar Panels2021-02-06T23:48:00Z<p>Jon W: Created page with "'''By Jon Windt; ''Della Jean''''' NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your bo..."</p>
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<div>'''By Jon Windt; ''[[Della Jean]]'''''<br />
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NOTE - Before doing any projects, I highly recommend that you first go through the “Critical Upgrades” list and verify that your boat has all of the applicable items addressed. There is a link on the Message Board (copied here) entitled [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html “CRITICAL UPGRADES – DO THESE OR ELSE!!!”] that will take you to them. It is a good way to both learn your boat and make sure it is safe. Don’t put it off.<br />
<br />
==Background==<br />
<br />
I am refitting my 1987 MK 1 Catalina 34, hull #493 for future short and extended cruising. In the slip I use a ProNautics 1240P AC charger to charge my house bank and reserve battery. To have as many anchoring and mooring options as possible, I need a way to charge the batteries while underway, at anchor, or on a mooring for multiple days. To do that, I elected to install solar panels. Before doing this project, I added a bimini over the cockpit with a removable connector between the new bimini and the existing dodger. This project is about mounting the solar panels onto the bimini, and connecting them to my existing electrical system only.<br />
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The solar charging system will tie in nicely with the complete electrical upgrade I completed in the 1st Qtr of 2016. Details for that are in a separate write-up entitled [[1987 MK 1 Catalina 34 Electrical System Upgrade]] that I added to both the “Electrical” section and the “Projects by Boat/Author” section of the Tech WIKI.<br />
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As a final note, every boat is different. The routing, methods, solar equipment, and decisions I made may not work on your boat or for your needs. I am not an expert on this subject. This is only a summary of what I did, not a manual of what you must/should do. This is one way, not the only way. Good luck and I hope you find this write up helpful.<br />
<br />
==Some Questions For Choosing Solar Panels==<br />
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Like most topics related to a boat, when it comes to solar panels and their installation, there isn’t a simple choice. There is a lot to read on this subject, and lots of opinions (often conflicting) to sift through. I started with the basics, so some of the questions I needed to answer were:<br />
• Identify my typical amperage usage in a 24 hour period.<br />
• Choose between flexible or rigid panels.<br />
• How much solar to install.<br />
• Choose between a parallel, series, or each panel run separately type of system.<br />
• Choose between MPPT charge controller manufacturers.<br />
• Should multiple panels be controlled with one controller, or each panel with its’ own charge controller.<br />
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Previously I changed all but two light fixtures inside the boat to LED. I changed my navigation, anchor, and spreader lights to LED. My radar, chart plotter, auto pilot, and electronics are low amperage devices. My biggest amperage draw is my refrigerator at ~ 5.5 amps when running. It’s an intermittent load, so really only draws ~1amp/hour. I added some margin to my total monitored energy usage, and felt it reasonable to use 80 amps per day for sizing the Solar Panels.<br />
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I chose to use flexible Solar Panels due to weight (6 lbs vs 22 lbs), and the ability to mount it to the bimini without a separate SST frame. Directly mounting to the bimini will reduce the surface area for the wind load to affect. Flexible panels do cost a little more, and are not as efficient. I felt with the margin I added, the reduced weight, reduced surface area for wind loading, and waiting to buy them on sale that flexible solar panels were the better choice for me.<br />
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For determining how much solar to install it’s important to know the charging period available in the areas I’ll be sailing in. I’ve read that 5.5 hours per day is a good guide. Using my daily 80 amps energy usage x 12V = 960W; 960W/5.5hrs = 174.55W. In theory a single 175W solar panel, would be the bare minimum. Since nothing works perfectly, I chose to go with two 175W flexible solar panels. I know I have margin in the energy usage, and now margin in the panel sizing, but I’m not an expert, I have the room on the bimini, and more is better.<br />
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I considered running the panels in series, but didn’t like the risk of a single point of failure shutting down my solar charging capability. As a result I chose to run the solar panels separately, each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. I ruled out a parallel system due to shading risks.<br />
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To control the solar panel output, I chose Victron Energy 75/15 MPPT charge controllers. They have a good reputation for quality, durability, ease of installation, available features such as data available via Bluetooth, and are good at getting the most amperage out of your solar panels and into the batteries.<br />
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To maximize each panels capabilities, I chose to run each panel separately and control each with its’ own MPPT charge controller. It’s more expensive, but this way provides me redundancy to compensate for any potential shading issues, and in case one panel fails for some reason.<br />
I decided on solar panels from Renogy. The reviews were very good, and the test results from various individuals matched the specification sheets. I installed two Renogy RNG-175DB-H 175W flexible solar panels. Photo (1) shows the factory data plate for the solar panel.<br />
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'''<big>(1)</big>''' [[File:STBD Solar Panel Data Plate.JPG|400px]]<br />
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==Installing Solar Panels==<br />
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The panels are mounted to the bimini with a hook & loop/lapel method. Marine grade hook & loop is sewn around the perimeter of the top and bottom of each panel. Sewn into the bimini are matching flaps or lapels which have marine grade hook & loop sewn into the top and bottom of each lapel. Each solar panel is sandwiched between the marine grade hook & loop on the “bimini lapels” making a very solid connection. Photo (2) gives a close up of the port and (3) gives a close up of the starboard solar panel lapels.<br />
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'''<big>(2)</big>''' [[File:Port Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(3)</big>''' [[File:Stbd Panel Installed.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (4) shows an overview of the port and starboard solar panels installed.<br />
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'''<big>(4)</big>''' [[File:Both Panels.JPG|400px]]<br />
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==Wiring The Solar Panels==<br />
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The solar panel wires are 10AWG, and connect to the solar panels with MC4 connectors. They then travel down to the port cockpit coaming where they transition into the boat through an existing hole in the coaming. The existing hole was where the old auto pilot control head used to mount. Mounted over the hole is the Cockpit Transition Box. It is an exterior grade waterproof box that is thru bolted and sealed with Bed-It Butyl tape between the box and the coaming. The box has a hole in the back to match the hole in the cockpit coaming, as well as 6 counter bored holes in 2 rows along one side, and a larger oblong hole in the top surface. Six PG7 waterproof cable glands are installed in the holes along the side, and a SEAVIEW Grey ABS Plastic Cable Gland - UV Stable - Multi Cable (up to 2-17mm each) is mounted on the top of the box. Two pairs of 10AWG wires from the solar panels, and one pair of 10AWG wires for a separate Cockpit Power Box mounted on the bimini pass through the PG7 cable glands. My two AIS antennas and one external GPS for my chart plotter pass through the Seaview multi cable gland.<br />
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Photo (5) shows the two AIS antennas and the one external GPS for my chart plotter passing thru the Seaview multi cable gland, and thru the hole in the box and coaming into the interior of the boat where they enter a single ¾” split loom.<br />
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'''<big>(5)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 1.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (6) shows the 10AWG wires from the solar panels and the 10AWG wires to the Cockpit Power Box transitioning thru the PG7 waterproof glands on the side of the junction box, and then thru the hole in the back of the box and thru the cockpit coaming into the interior of the boat.<br />
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''NOTE –The Cockpit Power Box and associated wires I reference are not covered in this write up. I referenced them to avoid confusion since the solar panels require only 4 wires, but the photo of the Cockpit Transition Box shows 6 wires.''<br />
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'''<big>(6)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box 2.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (7) shows the finished Cockpit Transition Box. I used split loom to cover the wires and antennae coax cables to provide UV protection. The wires and antennae split looms are then tie wrapped to the push pit to keep them secure and out of the way to avoid them getting damaged.<br />
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'''<big>(7)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Complete.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (8) shows the inside of the cockpit coaming and the drip loop in the wires. They are secured with a cable tie wrap to a wood block I epoxied to the inside of the cockpit coaming. At the top of the photo, you see the end of a ¾” split loom. The AIS and external GPS coax cables run inside this split loom to provide them some separation from potential electrical interference as they run past the various electrical wires on the way to the Navigation Station.<br />
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'''<big>(8)</big>''' [[File:Transition Box Inside.JPG|400px]]<br />
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The 10AWG solar panel wires continue along the inside surface of the coaming to another tie wrap. The positive wires from the solar panels enter and exit a Solar Panel Disconnect Box thru PG7 waterproof glands. The negative wires from the solar panels bypass the box and continue on to the charge controllers. The Solar Panel Disconnect Box is an exterior grade waterproof box. The box is mounted to a piece of wood epoxied to the vertical bulkhead of the aft lazarette next to the manual bilge pump. Photo (9) shows the positive wires as they are being installed.<br />
<br />
''FYI - These are the PG7 glands I purchased from Digi-Key.I think they are a better product than the ones I purchased from Amazon and used in the Cockpit Transition Box.''<br />
<br />
'''<big>(9)</big>''' [[File:Panel Disconnect Box.JPG|400px]]<br />
<br />
The purpose of the Solar Panel Disconnect box is to be able to “shut off” the output power from the solar panels to the charge controllers. I used a heavy duty toggle switch for each solar panel to break its’ circuit. I labeled which toggle switch is which, which position is off, and included a green LED with each toggle switch. When the LED is lit, the circuit is connected for that solar panel. When the LED is not lit, the circuit is disconnected for that solar panel. This provides a quick and easy visual status check of the solar panels by just sticking my head into the aft lazarette. Photo (10) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with each circuit disconnected (switched off). Photo (11) shows the Solar Panel Disconnect box with both LED’s lit, meaning both solar panel circuits are connected (switched on) and providing power from the solar panels to the charge controllers, and to the batteries.<br />
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'''<big>(10)</big>''' [[File:Panels Disconnected.JPG|400px]]<br />
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'''<big>(11)</big>''' [[File:Panels Connected.JPG|400px]]<br />
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From the Solar Panel Disconnect Box the 10AWG wires travel thru a split loom to the base of the rudder post housing, along the hull, and under the aft berth to the starboard hull. Photo (12) shows the wires lying on the hull before installing them in the split loom and running them under the aft cabin mattress support to the hull on the starboard side of the boat. From there they run along the starboard hull with the propane hose (in a separate split loom) through the seat locker in the aft cabin to the bulkhead separating the aft cabin from the galley.<br />
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'''<big>(12)</big>''' [[File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG|400px]]<br />
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Photo (13) shows how the two split looms, one containing wires and one containing the propane hose, run and are secured along the inside top surface of the seat locker in the aft cabin.<br />
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'''<big>(13)</big>''' <br />
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'''<big>(14)</big>''' <br />
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'''<big>(15)</big>''' <br />
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'''<big>(16)</big>''' <br />
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'''<big>(17)</big>'''</div>Jon Whttps://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Wiring_Before_Split_Loom.JPG&diff=7331File:Wiring Before Split Loom.JPG2021-02-06T23:46:40Z<p>Jon W: File uploaded with MsUpload</p>
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<div>File uploaded with MsUpload</div>Jon W