Project: Head

Fresh Water Head and Overflow Control

I got a little tired of the Head  Overflowing when someone forgot to leave the handle down.  I decided to convert the smaller starboard Fresh Water Tank to a dedicated fresh water supply for the head. The starboard water tank is about the same size as the holding tank.  This is great because you reduce the risk of overfilling the waste tank. I added a 1/2" Tee off the inlet sea cock and put a 1/2" ball valve and a one way check valve on the fresh water inlet side of the Tee.  Then disconnected the stabbed fresh water tank from the fresh water supply system and ran a direct line from the water tank to the Tee.  Then connected to the head inlet line to the other side of the Tee. End result and benefits:

1. I don't need to use the inlet sea cock. It stays shut.  I only need to open the ball valve to the fresh water tank.
2. The head never overflows.  The top of the head is is just a little higher than the top of the water tank. 
3. The head odor disappeared or at least is better.  You don't have all those sea water microbes dying and causing additional odor.
4. We only use the large stern water tank for drinkable water.  We use it more and this keep things fresher.

Let me know if you have any questions (R Norquist).   

Vent Filter

I just finished building a vent filter for the holding tank. The breakthrough thought came from my wife, while we were discussing the possibilities, and I asked what the filter medium could be.  She immediately suggested activated charcoal, which makes perfect sense, and I was soon off to Hechingers for parts.  I built a U-tube structure with 2" PVC sanitary piping and 3/4" elbow end fittings to connect into the vent tubing where it rises up past the electrical panel in the aft-most cuddy on the port side.    The U is about 12" long, and 8" wide, and is filled with a mixture of straight activated charcoal and something called "Ammocarb".  These came from a pet store, where they are sold in bulk to people who own fish.  They are used to filter out the same noxious gases in fish tanks.  I have never seen the commercial product, and didn't know how big the absorber bed is, so I figured that a bed that was 2" in diameter by about 30" long should be fine.  If not, I can extend it by adding some more loops. The U also has a side tap so that I can empty and refill it when the  charcoal is exhausted.  The whole thing cost about $20 in parts,and about $10 for the charcoal.  And I can re-fill it very cheaply. I filled one leg with Ammocarb, and the other with straight charcoal. It works very well, and we now don't have to worry about stinking up a whole raft of boats any more! (Ralph Caruso) 

Important: The opinions expressed here are those of the individual contributors to this page, and not those of the Catalina 34 National Association or Catalina Yachts, Inc. Additionally, this material has not been reviewed by Catalina Yachts, Inc. for technical accuracy. This page's maintainer cannot guarantee the accuracy of this information or the desirability of suggested modifications or upgrades. Please obtain assistance from a competent marine mechanic or boatyard prior to making any significant modifications to your vessel.