How do I Rebed Leaky Chain Plates?
Original Message:
Resealing Chain Plates / Tie Rod Leakage
I'm getting some leakage through the deck from where the shrouds
are mounted to the deck. In particular, the leakage is from the
bolts (next to the chain plates) holding the tie-rods in place. Is
it okay if I remove these bolts one at a time (or one shroud at a
time) to re-bed them?
Thanks for the info.
Chuck Hughes, Sand Save #223 (1986), Long Beach, CA, chuckhughes@yahoo.com
Subj: Resealing Chain Plates / Tie Rod Leakage
We just re-did the 6 chain plates using two 2 different methods.
We had severe leakage into the cabin from the shrouds.
CONDITION 1: Rust stains on old bedding compound on in side
of cabin.
SOLUTION 1: De-tensioned both stays (matching) and removed
plate pin. Backed off tension rod in cabin and removed T bar.
Removed top (deck) cover plate. Took a flex putty knife to cut old
bedding out from under plate on cabin side. Key step is coming up
next! Had wife stand on chain T plate while I cut remainder of bonds
holding plate to cabin ceiling. Once plate was liberated we cleaned
off all of the old bedding compound. The 3-year-old stuff was
flexible but could see the water path into the cabin on the old
residue.
We saw failure of the bedding compound both on the vertical T plate
portion of the chain plate and on the thru bolts. In some cases when
we pulled the bolts out, the whole area was saturated with water and
had drips into the cabin. This is with the last rainstorm 2 weeks
ago. There was a lot of water to dry out of the deck matrix before
we started reassemble.
Reassemble, used 3M 301 bedding compound, apply new compound to
plate and T. Ensure enough compound to provide complete coverage
across the plate with no air pockets when re-compressed. An
additional volume must be maintained for compound to act as a
"thick" gasket. Insert T plate thru deck and install thru
bolts. Remember to goop bolts with bedding compound at both the
screw head and under the washer. Re-install the washer, lock washer,
and acorn "cap" nut. Torque assembly to solid pressure. Do
not over torque, you want bedding compound to form a gasket.
The thinner the final compound is, the less the elastic range is.
Reinstall T cover plate with bedding compound. Took an extra sharp
applicator tip to fill in the voids between the T tongue and the
deck hole. Final step, leave alone till hard. Do not wipe off excess
till cured. I prefer to cut the excess after the "gasket"
has cured. Re-Install shrouds and torque rod after 24 hours. Repeat
procedure on next set of shrouds.
CONDITION 2: Water coming in but no visual distress on the
inside-bedding compound.
SOLUTION 2: De-tensioned the stay if not already done by
pair. Removed top cover plate and thru bolts from topside of deck.
Clean off old potting compound from deck and top tongue of T plate.
Reset bolts and plate as noted above.
We just completed this operation 3 weeks ago on Anointed when we did
the bottom. We did one set of stays a day and did a static tune a
day before re-launch.
We have seen no water leaks into the cabin or through the light
fixtures by the plates, former big drip there. The procedure was
about 2 to 3 hours a shroud set depending if the plates had to be
totally liberated and reset.
T.R. Hernacki, Anointed #1298, hernacki@flinet.com
Subj: Resealing Chain Plates / Tie Rod Leakage
My experience has been that some of the chain plates will begin
to leak after a particularly vigorous sail with heavy stresses on
the rigging and perhaps some flexing of the deck around the chain
plates and bolts. Rebedding the cover plates and the bolt washers
will stop any leaks for about 6 months. Six plus months later, after
a vigorous sail, one or more of the leaks will reappear during a
heavy rain or very heavy washdown. Thus far, only the two forward
lower shrouds and one upper shroud have shown leaks. The leaks were
slow drips from the top of the T-bar.
Bob Martin SUNSET 1229, "T.R., remdlm@sunline.net
Subj: Resealing Chain Plates / Tie Rod Leakage
Done that. Loosen the shrouds, remove and recaulk. The removing
is much easier said than done, especially the chain plate itself.
Don't leave the leakage untreated too long. The deck is a plywood
fiberglass sandwich so leakage is getting into the plywood as well
as the interior.
Charles and Ba Holder, holder@unixg.ubc.ca
Subj: Resealing Chain Plates / Tie Rod Leakage
Chuck : I can see that you're getting all kinds of advice. I'll
add a few thoughts. I reseal/caulk with all the tension still on the
shrouds.
You need to DIG out all the old sealant and clean the area with
alcohol and then with acetone/lacquer thinner. I find that poly
sulfide works best for me. I tried to caulk when we've been on a
sailing trip and it never held. Then I got smart and caulked on a
Monday, let it completely cure and not sail (adding more tension to
the rig), until Saturday. This works great and I haven't had to
re-caulk in 5or6 yrs. Looking back – on the sailing trips I
believe the caulk never completely cured. Hope this may help.
Ron Apache #788, ronphylhill@erols.com
Subj: Resealing Chain Plates / Tie Rod Leakage
I also had leaking on my boat a 92. When I removed the plates
and bolts I found that I had water leaking into the plywood core. I
dried that all up and to prevent any further damage used a
"West System" kit of epoxy and filler and sealed the
exposed areas of wood. The bolt Holes I drilled out to a larger size
then filled them y with the epoxy and then re-drilled them to the
original bolt size, then reinstalled the whole set up. Now I don't
worry about the water leaking in....I figure that previously the
water was leaking into the wood long before it ever showed up in
side and was doing damage to the deck core...now I just don't worry
about it. When it shows up again I will just remove them and re-bed
them without the worry of damage....I also used this technique with
the bolts that attach the grab rails to the deck. Nothing has leaked
since I did them about 5 years now.
Bill Quinn " Vita Brevis II", bquinn@cybersurf.net
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