Where to look if they don't work, tips on troubleshooting.
Collated by Stu Jackson; contributors: Art Bayer, David
Aucella, John Nixon, Gary Wiseman, Jim Moe
Art's question started this dialog:
When I arrived at the boat 2 weekends ago I found that the
cabin lights would not come on when I switched them on at the
control panel. All other lights, instruments and appliances
are working when their switches are switched on at the control
panel. The fuse looked fine but I changed it anyway to no
avail.
David replied:
I think I've got it! Same thing happened to me a couple of
years ago. Solution: check the snap connectors (they are a
small blue connector that snaps together and pinches through
the wire's cover insulation and connects the "hot
line" to the line for the interior lighting). They are
located in the cabinet above the chart table right at the
headliner. Unsnap, clean and reattach.
John added:
Another thing to check is the spade connectors on the back of
the fuse/CB for the cabin lights. On HARD TIMES ( #1170) I had
several instances of poor connections there. You might also
want to verify that the ground wire for the lighting circuit
is still OK: it will be one of the wires in the ground
terminal strip back behind the circuit panel.
Gary suggested:
I go into the back of my panel each spring and, as regular
maintenance, check the spade connectors, etc. Over the years
I've found several loose connections and initially some bad
wire runs and "additions" by the previous owner.
Losing lights is not the worst thing that could happen from
interrupted power "in the dark of night". I'd hate
to lose instruments, auto helm, or radio due to a loose
connection. Its worth checking regularly. The same applies to
the engine panel. It's in the same category as checking thru
hulls, etc.
Jim contributed:
I've read with interest some of the comments Art's question
has inspired. The connections from the dark blue (hot) wire
and the black (ground) wire coming from the panel to the same
respective color wires in the run that goes around the boat
near the hull-deck joint on my boat were not so great and had
some voltage drop so I redid them. Also used an additional run
of #14 wire across to the starboard side of the boat to reduce
the voltage drop to the lights. Catalina's scheme of
"daisy chaining" the cabin lights with #16 wire
results in too much voltage drop and subsequent light dimming
as more are turned on. Also, when I was making some additions
to the electrical panel I noticed several very warm electrical
connections to the flag and spade connectors as noted by John
Nixon. I found that many of the crimped connections on the
wires at the panel were done very poorly, apparently using a
pair of pliers, and quite a few wires came out easily when I
pulled on them. Though I am the second owner of the boat (a
1989) it appeared that this was a factory job as there was
little evidence of added circuitry and all crimps were the
same. I replaced all the questionable flag and spade terminals
(we make these terminals and crimping tools for the railroad
signal industry) and eliminated a lot of voltage drop at the
panel.
At the time, I felt this had to be an isolated case, but now
wonder if it is more endemic after reading some of the other
comments. On the other hand, the panel on our C-30 which we
bought new in 1988, was done very professionally.
I would suggest you check all the connections, both at the
"T" connection above the panel and on the back of
the panel. There are only a six screws to remove to take out
the panel and its an easy task. However, be careful as the
shore power connections on the back of the AC breakers are
very exposed. Suggest you ALWAYS disconnect the shore power
before removing and working on the panel.
Art concluded:
Thanks to all for the advice on my cabin light problem. I was
able to solve the problem. David Aucella hit the nail on the
head. The problem was caused by two ground wires that were
poorly connected by a clamp type connector which when closed,
pierces one wire and connects it to the other wire which had
been partially stripped to make a better connection. I've seen
these type electrical connectors in cars and on trailers. As
David mentioned, these particular connectors are in the
uppermost shelf above the navigator's table.
In 1987, instead of running a ground wire to the ground gang
strip behind the navigator area electrical panel, Catalina
used these clamp quick connectors to connect the cabin light
ground wire circuit which includes the bow running light to
another ground circuit wire which runs to a grounding panel.
There are at least 2 other connectors like this one in the
same area. When I pried open the closest clamp connector of
ground wires, which were under tension and obviously shorter
than they should be, corrosion was evident. To fix the problem
I had to cut the wires and then splice in extensions and then
reconnect everything.
"THANKS to Stu
Jackson for his help compiling this FAQ"
Important: The opinions expressed
here are those of the individual contributors to this page,
and not those of the Catalina 34 National Association or
Catalina Yachts, Inc. Additionally, this material has not been
reviewed by Catalina Yachts, Inc. for technical accuracy. This
page's maintainer cannot guarantee the accuracy of this
information or the desirability of suggested modifications or
upgrades. Please obtain assistance from a competent marine
mechanic or boatyard prior to making any significant
modifications to your vessel.
hits since October 11, 1999. Last modified by
Al Watson, Wednesday, August 11, 2004
. Copyright © 1999 Catalina 34 National Association. All
rights reserved.
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