Alternator Upgrade

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KWKloeber

THANKS for the additional info Rod,

Hopefully you can make some headway with L-N !!

fwiw, might not be indicative of most, but my MR82049K is case grounded, no OEM ground connection except thru the engine mount :shock: (I have since added a ground cable.)


really good info Rod

ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

mainesail

Quote from: KWKloeber on February 21, 2018, 09:32:21 AM
THANKS for the additional info Rod,

Hopefully you can make some headway with L-N !!

fwiw, might not be indicative of most, but my MR82049K is case grounded, no OEM ground connection except thru the engine mount :shock: (I have since added a ground cable.)


really good info Rod

ken

The units one would use for better output and a true heavier duty alt would be the 90A and 105A units and those are all isolated ground alternators. The old 51A units don't handle being converted to external without some hefty belt manger reductions making them pretty much useless. That alt also shipped with a few different regs over the years one of them factory set at 15.0V (8RG2010A) and one set at just 14.2V (8RG2009A). Neither is ideal and the8RG2010A can actually be deadly to AGM or GEL if the boat charges dockside during the week. About the best thing you can do with that alt is move to an 8RG2043 adjustable LN regulator but the reality is that it's not really even worth the $80.00 expense for a 51A alt.
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

KWKloeber

Mea culpa for not being clear..... 
I wasn't thinking of ER-ing the 2049, that would be waste.  just noting about the frame ground.

k
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

mainesail

Quote from: KWKloeber on February 21, 2018, 12:45:50 PM
Mea culpa for not being clear..... 
I wasn't thinking of ER-ing the 2049, that would be waste.  just noting about the frame ground.

k

Ah that makes sense. Some of the lower amperage 8MR units were case grounded.
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

MarcZ

Quote from: dfloeter on February 12, 2018, 06:58:16 PM
I did the serpentine kit install this winter on my M35a and it went very smoothly.  We did not think the large pulley would fit as is but no machining was needed and everything fit perfectly.

Did you use Balmar kit or some cross reference from the automotive world ? (does it exist ?)

93 C34 Mk 1.5 #1258 TR WK M35
Upper Chesapeake

mainesail

#35
Quote from: MarcZ on February 22, 2018, 06:10:02 AM
Quote from: dfloeter on February 12, 2018, 06:58:16 PM
I did the serpentine kit install this winter on my M35a and it went very smoothly.  We did not think the large pulley would fit as is but no machining was needed and everything fit perfectly.

Did you use Balmar kit or some cross reference from the automotive world ? (does it exist ?)

The kits for these marine engines are all custom made by one of three companies Balmar/AltMount, Mark Grasser or a company out of Canada, whom I won't name, and who has earned a pretty poor reputation for customer service as well as creating a direct patent infringement. Balmar owns the patent and only Mark Grasser is technically allowed to build similar kits.

I have one of my own customers that owns a machine shop. He throught the Balmar price was offensive so he built his own kit. He just recently bought a larger boat and teh fist thing he ordered was a Balmar serpentine kit..

"Bob why didn't you just make one like you did for the last boat?"

"Are you kidding me, the last one I made cost me twice what I just paid for the Balmar kit...."

Also keep in mind that unless your Universal has the main crank pulley, with three tapped bolt holes in it, you'll need to replace the OEM crank pulley too.
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

MarcZ

#36
Thanks  for the warning ! 
I actually found this "unmentioned" company last week on the web and I was considering them as a source ...
93 C34 Mk 1.5 #1258 TR WK M35
Upper Chesapeake

ChrisOB

Been cruising from NY through Bahamas for the last 5 months.  Unless you have AGMs with high acceptance rate (I have wet  6v x4) I don't understand how this is even a consideration.  You will never see more than 25 amps coming in.  Why over tax an already underpowered engine.
1986 MK1 Tall rig/Fin Keel #247

ChrisOB

Also, don't expect the 'smart' gauge to work well with a solar setup, it's a marketing gig.  Use a victron and check your resting voltage at midnight.  Save yourself a few hundred bucks.
1986 MK1 Tall rig/Fin Keel #247

mainesail

Quote from: ChrisOB on April 17, 2018, 11:50:33 PM
Been cruising from NY through Bahamas for the last 5 months.  Unless you have AGMs with high acceptance rate (I have wet  6v x4) I don't understand how this is even a consideration.  You will never see more than 25 amps coming in.  Why over tax an already underpowered engine.


Something is not correct with your set up if all you can get is 25A into them.... A 450Ah bank of GC2's will easily take 100A+ at 50% DOD.
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

mainesail

#40
Quote from: ChrisOB on April 18, 2018, 12:10:28 AM
Also, don't expect the 'smart' gauge to work well with a solar setup, it's a marketing gig.  Use a victron and check your resting voltage at midnight.  Save yourself a few hundred bucks.

I have lots of these out there working extremely well with solar. You really only need to know your SOC once or twice per day and you'll know that once the sun goes down and before the sun comes up. After that you may see a 10% +/- discrepancy. Still much better than the accuracy of the majority of Ah counters I come across..
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

ChrisOB

I find the smart gauge works well if I am pumping 15 amps of solar, but if I'm only getting 9 on a cloudy day, it will never increase.  Similarly on those days I will go to sleep, it wil say 75% and I'll wake up at 74%.  Running fridge and cpap machine.  It seems to take a while to figure out the SOC If the charging amps aren't really high.  I still like to have it, and check it all the time.
1986 MK1 Tall rig/Fin Keel #247

ChrisOB

Also, hopefully I am just keeping the batteries pretty full if I never see more than 30 amps.  Brand new charger and brand new 2 gauge wires.  I replaced my alternator with a new 55 amp and I am happy, still wouldn't over tax my M25 for electric.  Never seen the batteries below 12.3.
1986 MK1 Tall rig/Fin Keel #247

mark_53

#43
I think sometimes it is hard to recognize when one solution has been surpassed by newer less expensive technology.  Mainsail gave you a hint...solar.  If I was a crusier and not an "RVer" I'd add 200 watts of solar before the expense, dust, strain on engine and alignment issues associated with a larger alternator.  Go green man!

Ken Heyman

On a different tangent, I am about to order a new aftermarket alternator that will replace my original  Motorola. It is a direct replacement for the Motorola and Prestolite part numbers and I am confident in the selection.
I am not certain,in that it doesn't come with a pulley, If I will be able to order from the seller,but if not, I'm not I'm curious where to obtain a compatible pulley that will accommodate a 3/8 inch belt . I know that others have used their old pulley but I prefer  to keep the old alternator serviceable.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Ken
Ken Heyman
1988 c34 #535
"Wholesailor"
Chicago, Il