keel damage

Jeff Kaplan · October 22, 2017, 12:35:17 PM

Earlier this summer, for the first time ever in my 50+ years of sailing, I experienced a hard grounding on submerged rock. Fortunately, I was able to back off and find clean water out to sea. It didn't seem to be very hard hit but it was rock. I never took on any water and all seemed fine for the rest of the season, which ended for me last weekend, failed water pump discussed earlier. 1986 #219 is a tall mast, shallow keel model. The boat was pulled last week and I finally got to inspect the damage. The front of the keel, along bottom edge of each side and the very bottom rear was scraped and gouged. I was able to pound most of the lead back, except for a few spots that will be filled in with marine tex. I exposed much of the lead, removing some type of coating. My question is, prior to repairing with marine tex, should I apply some type of barrier coating to the exposed lead. Let me know.

Thanks,

Jeff

KWKloeber · October 22, 2017, 01:08:40 PM

Epoxy will adhere best to the lead, than a covering over the lead.

Just de-oxidize lead. Bright metal -- like coarse sand it, or wire brush on a grinder or hand brush, depending on......)

YKYC, but IIWMK, I wouldn't use Marine Tex, no benefit except being an expen$$ive product and not being as durable at full cure. Just plain old epoxy resin/hardener/West 403 microfibers, followed by an angle grinder to shape it, then a D/A sander to take out grind marks (again depending on.....) That mix is Holy Batman hard, so if you don't have an angle grinder and aggressive D/A, you might soften the mix using West West 407 low-density filler. Use more 407 than 403 to make it easier to sand/shape.

The pic below is using 100% 403 additive but to shape it before fairing I had to use an angle grinder because it's so HARD at cure. (the keel stub was about 2" shorter than the keel below it!)

The reason to use 403 (many many DIYs will recommend 406 Colloidal Silica) is that 406 CS is BEAR to mix into the resin. It's like trying to add dandelion wisps into peanut butter in a windstorm. 403 MF mixes MUCH easier, doesn't fly away as easily as 406 CS, and has a higher adhesive property than 406 SC. If you need really high compressive strength (you don't ) then use 406 CS.

I prefer using Mas Epoxy resin/hardener to West Systems, and I think it's worth ordering that in over West (on the shelf at WM), but YKYC.

ken

Jeff Kaplan · October 22, 2017, 02:04:48 PM

Thanks for that Ken. There are a few deep gouges that I must fill in with marine tex, but I'll coat the exposed lead with your epoxy suggestion.

KWKloeber · October 22, 2017, 02:10:41 PM

I failed.

There's no reason to use marine text. You use the epoxy resin/hardener with the additive instead of marine tex. If you're determined to use marine tex, just use it, no epoxy resin/ hardener/additive.
What I'm trying to say is for the best job don't use marine tex, the end result is inferior to using the epoxy.

Jeff Kaplan · October 22, 2017, 02:24:46 PM

Ken,

I just read about the west system 105/206/403 and realized that I will just use that and not use marine tex. I was just about to send you my decision, when your reply came in. Thanks for the advice, it is well taken and appreciated.

Ron Hill · October 22, 2017, 03:03:32 PM

Jeff : Just work fast because lead oxidizes fast.
I'd get everything ready and then clean to the shinny lead and immediately apply the epoxy.

A thought

Jeff Kaplan · October 22, 2017, 03:44:04 PM

Thanks for that tip Ron. I just exposed the lead yesterday, was very shinny at that time, at the nose, maybe 8" X8" back on each side of bottom. From the back forward, maybe 2' X 8" again bottom, both sides. It was ugly, but fortunately, lead can be pounded back into shape.

KWKloeber · October 22, 2017, 04:02:07 PM

Quote from: Jeff Kaplan on October 22, 2017, 03:44:04 PM
It was ugly, but fortunately, lead can be pounded back into shape.

We've all been there, (or as they say, are lying about it.)

20 yrs ago I knocked a chunk out of (relatively) thin trailing edge of my fin, and rebuilt it w/ epoxy/microfibers. It's still there (I think.)

k

scgunner · October 22, 2017, 05:14:27 PM

My ex-partner took a chunk out of the keel when he put the boat on a rock(one of the reasons he's an ex). When I got it out of the water I filled the hole with West Systems epoxy and 407 filler, sanded it smooth, primed and painted it. That was about 25 years ago, when I pulled the boat last June to do the bottom I couldn't tell exactly where that repair was.

Roc · October 23, 2017, 05:03:42 AM

On the bottom of my wing keel, some of the gelcoat was flaking off. An area of a several square inches. I was concerned about the exposed lead. At the boat show, I tracked down Gerry Douglas and told him about it. He said the exposed lead is no concern. Just put bottom paint on and don't worry about it. It's been like this for several years and it has been no issue.

Ed Shankle · October 23, 2017, 05:51:11 PM

Varying off topic a bit Jeff, but where did you ground? Assuming it's in the Salem harbor area, I'd like to note that on my chart if it's not clearly marked.
Thanks and regards,
Ed

Jeff Kaplan · October 23, 2017, 09:51:19 PM

Ed,

Actually I went aground off Deer Island Sewerage plant in Winthrop day of Tall Ship parade, totally fogged in conditions. There was plenty of water around me, but unfortunately not much under, much to my dismay. Depth sounder alarms went off and I realized there was no water, with the shallow draft keel, I only draw about 5', but guess what, smash. A friend of mine put my last boat aground off Coney Ledge so I stay far away from there. Boats at Liberty Marina awaiting my fix.