Windless article

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bayates

Does anOne have a copy of a 2013 MainSheet article from the C36 association on replacing the 500 VW windless. I am getting ready to replace mine and I saw revenge to it but got rid of old issues when we moved and downsized.
Brian & Pat Yates
Hakuna Matata
2000 MKII #1517
San Diego, CA

Noah

What windlass are you replacing your old one with?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

bayates

I am looking at the Maxwell VW10-8.  It supports the 5/16 8 or 10mm chain and rope rode in the gypsy. I just replaced the Anchor Rode with 150' of 5/16 8mm chain and 200' of rope rode. I am trying to validate date the mounting is close to the 500 VW. Once I am done you are more than welcome to come over and take a look.
Brian & Pat Yates
Hakuna Matata
2000 MKII #1517
San Diego, CA

Noah

#3
Not sure  if your 500 series windlass (which is originally designed to be mounted vertically but Catalina mounted  horizontally in my MK I), is mounted the same way in your MK II, but the hole pattern should be the same. The hole pattern diagram from the manual is attached.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

bayates

Yeah, mine is horizontal in the locker. Talked to Maxwell and they recommend the RC8 and VW10 8 or 10 mm. Ordered the VW10-8mm this AM from defender with the wireless remote. Will install when back at end of month.
Brian & Pat Yates
Hakuna Matata
2000 MKII #1517
San Diego, CA

Noah

Looks like a great piece of gear! Yes, I would love to come by and see it and your canvas work, too. You are going to cost me a fortune!
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

dfloeter

Quote from: bayates on August 30, 2017, 12:05:06 PM
Yeah, mine is horizontal in the locker. Talked to Maxwell and they recommend the RC8 and VW10 8 or 10 mm. Ordered the VW10-8mm this AM from defender with the wireless remote. Will install when back at end of month.
You will find the motor is larger in diameter with the corresponding hole pattern. Boring the larger hole was not overly difficult.  There is a Cat36 article that explains the process quite well that helped greatly in our install.
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20

Dave S

#7
I replaced my 500 with the VW10-8. You'll have to bore out the hole a bit as dfloeter said. It's an excellent replacement. The wiring and breaker are already heavy enough to support the motor.

You mentioned you were getting the wireless remote. If your MK II is like mine, the OEM windlass was one-direction. To utilize the reverse-direction capability of the wireless remote, you'll need a 2-way solenoid. FYI, here's the one I bought: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2290057&id=132560
2000 Mk II #1471
s/v Breezin'
Annapolis, MD

dfloeter

Like Dave said it's a great replacement.  Mine came with the larger breaker and Maxwell recommended an increase in wire size from my original 4 gauge to 2 gauge.   Instead of swapping out the wires I added another 4 gauge run to both pos and neg resulting in a larger cross section that the single 2 gauge cable.    This is a bit of overkill but last week the windlass did not hesitate when pulling up the 33 pound hook, 20 feet of chain, a full load of clay and half of a tree.   I was so happy to not be pulling that load up by hand.
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20

cmainprize

Does anyone have pictures of the new windlass once installed.  I am looking to do this upgrade as well.  I have been running the chain through the drum and tailing it for years.  Not the best set up but it works.  Had enough of muddy hands with lots of little metal bits that strip off the drum as the chain shreds the drum.
Cory Mainnprize
Mystic
Hull # 1344
M35
Midland Ontario

dfloeter

I can shot a few later today.   The photos won't show the important part behind the panel but will at least show the fit.
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20

Mick Laver

Hi Dietrich
Do you remember the length of the run for the additional #4 cable? I know a single #4 is on the edge of spec (35 ft), though Maxwell states "Cable size recommendations are based on a maximum 10% voltage drop when operating the windlass under load, smaller cables may be used however a drop in performance can be expected."

I have a VW500 with a chain gypsy and all-chain rode, so I'm OK for now ... as long as I don't snag any trees. The 500lb pull and 1/4" chain is somewhat disconcerting, though, and I may be looking at this upgrade in the future. I'll also probably be helping Brian (the original poster) with this work.
Mick and Sherrie Laver
CINNAMON
1999 C34 Mk II #1432
San Diego, CA

dfloeter

I'm afraid I do not recall the length of the run exactly but maybe around 30'?   The negative went from the ground buss at the battery bank along the starboard side and the positive wire I believe ran on port.   They are of similar length in spite of starting from different locations.   
I was out at the boat earlier but it was raining so hard I could not shoot any p[ictures of the install.   I may have time tomorrow while sailing out into Lake Michigan.     
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20

bayates

All,

I was able to get the original article from the author (Chic Lasser) on the C36 website. I will ask if I can post it here. Has pictures and other great info. I intend to document as much as possible with pictures during install.

The windless and remote arrived today but install windows will not happen till after trip to Catalina.
Brian & Pat Yates
Hakuna Matata
2000 MKII #1517
San Diego, CA

mregan

Is a separate battery required for the windlass.  I've been thinking of adding one but haven't looked into it too deeply.  And do you need to use all chain rode or can you have a combination chain/rope?

It would be nice not having to replace toenails once a season when the anchor locker drops on my feet while I'm hauling the anchor in.