MK 1 Anchor Windlass - Alternative Installation

[Jon W]

I need to add an anchor windlass to my MK 1 which has the double door anchor locker. The various Tech WIKI write ups have either installed the windlass inside the anchor locker, or drilled a hole in the deck just aft of the double doors and mounted it to the deck.

I decided to replace my large double OEM anchor doors with a center support structure, and smaller doors on each side. I will be using a Maxwell HRC FF8-8 horizontal windlass that will mount on the center support structure and drop chain/rode directly into the center of the anchor locker. I've attached a few photos of the plywood mock up installed.

I'll be shopping the mock up around to local welders to get estimates. The center support structure will be a weldment of marine grade aluminum. The doors will also be aluminum.

[mark_53]

Novel idea Jon. I suppose the idea is to get the windlass further towards the bow and out of the way?  Have you considered how easily you would manually retrieve the anchor had the windlass failed?  I don't have a windlass but was thinking of adding one inside my single door.

Also, will the marine grade aluminum be slippery when wet?

Will you need new double doors or just cut the originals?

[Jon W]

Thanks, I think it looks pretty good and should work well.

Not closer to the bow. The goal was to have the right size windlass, maximum available space for chain and rode inside the locker, have the chain fall into the center of the locker, and have a simple windlass mechanism that is easy to service. That all pointed to a horizontal windlass. The windlass ended up slightly aft of center due to the hawse pipe location.

There is room to raise by hand and should be able to be done similar to the way it is without a windlass.

I plan to paint the aluminum with awl grip non skid of some sort.

The original doors will be stored untouched. I will have 2 new doors made from the plywood shapes you see in the photos.

[Noah]

Any cleat to secure rode?

[Jon W]

Haven't figured that out yet. I'm thinking the tie down should be to keep from accidentally paying out all ground tackle but shouldn't be carrying any load. Is that your understanding as well?

I also need to add some type of tie down to tie the anchor to when it's raised and sitting in the bow roller.

[Noah]

IMO, wouldn't recommend using the windlass gypsy to hold the boat while at anchor. It  is not intended to take shock loads or continuous loads generated while at anchor. For chain rode use a chain hook attached to line then to a cleat. With rope rode, tie it off to a cleat.

[Jon W]

I will be using a bridle snubber tied to the 8" bow cleats so no load on the windlass. Also I won't use the windlass to pull boat to the anchor, drive up to the anchor when retrieving.

My second paragraph is about a means to fasten the anchor to the bow roller so the windlass isn't holding it tight to the roller while underway.

The cleat I thought you were asking about, and I was asking if you agreed, is the small one I've seen inside the locker. I was asking if the purpose of that cleat was to tie the end of the rode to it so you don't accidentally throw everything overboard. Not use to hold the boat at anchor.

[Noah]

The cleat inside the single door MK I is intended to be used to tie off anchor after removing it from the winch drum. I secure my anchor while underway with a line and quick release line cleat/device that I tie off to forestay chainplate.

[Roc]

Jon,
Instead of making doors from aluminum, have you thought about taking your existing fiberglass doors and cutting them down to the new size? 

[Jon W]

I thought about cutting the original doors down to the new size, thought about having duplicate doors made and cutting them down to the new size, but settled on aluminum.

[Ron Hill]

Jon : A nice idea if you are satisfied with a windless on the deck.  Most of us like a clear deck so that's why we put the windlass inside the anchor well. 
Also most boat owners want to be able to double anchor  - if needed!

I see you are in salt water - I'd surly stay assay from aluminum - even if you have it anodized.

I wrote a long article (Mainsheet Tech notes) on installation of an electric windless inside a Double Door Anchor Well w/pictures

A few thoughts

[Noah]

Jon- talk to Bryan Thomas, Thomas Marine, in Canon Street. He will recommend the best solution for you.
BTW- My bitter end is secured with a big figure 8 knot through the base of the cleat legs. Can't see it very well with the random loop of chain that is over the cleat in my previous photo.

[Jon W]

Good points Ron. This windlass has a small footprint and being out of the anchor locker allows for more chain/rode which gives more anchoring depth options. I have a robust SST double bow roller. Stbd roller for the anchor stowage, and port roller for a mooring ball. Cruisers I have talked to say two inline anchors off one roller provides better holding power than left and right anchors. I suppose there are lots of opinions on this. Similar with aluminum. At the end of the day I'll go with what the metal fab folks recommend.

Hi Noah, I am planning to go to Thomas Marine tomorrow morning, then Chingon Metal Fab and see what they say. I talked to Benchmark Custom Welding a couple weeks ago. Any other names in San Diego folks have I'm interested so feel free to pass them on.

[Noah]

That about covers it. Thomas (and most) are very busy right now, so it may take awhile, unfortunately. Good luck!

[Stu Jackson]

I will be using a bridle snubber tied to the 8" bow cleats so no load on the windlass. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Jon,

You may consider revisiting this "complication" when anchoring.  The 101 Topics has a great quote from Steve Dolling, aka waterdog:

Steve's Anchoring 101

The Rocna.  All 20kg of it with 100ft of chain.  The rest of the world can debate all they like.   When I pull into a place like Bodega Bay at midnight and the fog is so thick I can't see the jetty 50 feet away to make an entrance, I drop my hook in the rolling ocean swells with the surf crashing (Foster says it's like staying in a cheap Best Western beside the highway), and I sleep.  And in the morning I have a windlass to pull the beast up and I wouldn't trade it for anything.   (I also wouldn't add more chain - this works perfectly in 25 to 30 feet of water - you let all the chain out and you tie off nylon at the preferred scope and don't bother with snubbers and chain hooks and all that stuff...)