frozen diesel cutoff lever

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RonE

Not sure what they call that diesel cutoff lever.
But yesterday, she finally froze up on me. I had to manually shut her down. Is it just wd40 to release or do you ever have to replace the shutoff lever.
Thanks
Ron

KWKloeber

#1
it helps if you put your Mk, year, and engine info into your profile  :-)

The shutoff handle/cable or the actual fuel shutoff lever on the engine?  What do you mean "manually" - starve the air intake?

My stop lever is stiff and I have tried to remove it and the plate underneath -- but can't figure out (yet) how it comes off without screwing up the fuel rail mechanism inside.  I want to replace the pull-cable with a stop solenoid on the at the engine as many diesel have instead.

-kk
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ron Hill

Ron: Looks to me like you have Hull #615 which is a 1988.

Are you saying that the pull handle at the engine instrument panel was frozen and couldn't be pulled.  So you went down and manually moved the shut off lever on your M25XP engine? 
Ron, Apache #788

RonE

Yes, exactly.. I sprayed it with wd40 and it still don't budge.

KWKloeber

Quote from: Ron 1988#615 on September 14, 2016, 02:54:40 PM
Yes, exactly.. I sprayed it with wd40 and it still don't budge.

#1 - never use a petroleum-based lubricant on this or any other shifter-type cable.  They can attack the sheath and then you can end up with a gummy mess inside the cable.  Teflon dry lube spray like Sailcote or SuperLube PTFE spray; graphite, a teflon gel like SuperLube gel, or if you must, a-non petroleum grease (ie soap based grease)....

Disconnect it at the engine stop lever.  Try it again.  If nothing, time to replace it.

-kk
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ron Hill

ron : As I mentioned in a previous post - they to unscrew the "T" handle and squirt some penetrating oil into that cable assembly.  It may take a few squirts to let the oil move down the inside to the restriction.

You can try other stuff, but it may not flow down the inside of the cable! Never had penetrating oil jam anything!

M thought
Ron, Apache #788

KWKloeber

"Tro-Flow" is another one -- drip bottle (a drip at a time as Ron says,) or the Tri-Flow "Pinpoint Lubricator" (needle.) 
Any lubricant with volatiles also dries out over time and leaves behind a thicker gunk than you had put in there in the first place.  The you need more lube and it becomes a constant vicious cycle.

-k
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain