cost for replacing deadheads (aft plexiglass)

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anaisdog

i have hull 99, c34, 1986 and my deadheads are shot.  scratched, chipped, leaking. I've rebed one but I've decided I want all new (and much darker).  catalina yachts, *IF* they can find the patterns, are $125 a piece.  I don't know what the local place will charge but the disadvantage of using local is the ports have to be out for 3 weeks, at least, while they duplicate them which means my boat will be open.  does anyone else know if anyone who had the patterns for the deadheads so i can buy (and install) them at once?

thanks

becki kain
detroit
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

anaisdog

also, if someone has done all 4, on their c34, how much dow corning 795 did you use?  catalina said I'd need two tubes and they would be happy to sell them to me for 18.95 each.
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

KWKloeber

becki

I don't know about any Greatfull Dead groupies, :-)  but I have occasionally seen sets of Catalina fixed ports on eBay and elsewhere. 
Is that what you're looking to replace?

ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

anaisdog

thought that is what they are called.  or fixed ports. or aft plexiglass.  yes, what i posted on the c30 list - is there someone cheaper than catalina for these?
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

KWKloeber

becki

A "deadlight" is something different.

What are you looking to replace exactly -- the alum frame et al? -- or just the glass?

I have seen Catalina fixed port frames on ebay and elsewhere.  It's just hit and miss.  Or check with Minneys.
If you can locate a used set, you could have them reglazed (and frame powder coated if you want) and then make a wholesale switch out.

Option would be to remove/disassemble one, and pattern the glass as well as the ID of the frame.  The shape of the frame channel is all the same, so the other sizes would have the same "overlap" of the glass size compared to the ID shape of the frame.  So you can pattern the other sizes and add "x" to the ID of each frame all around  -- to get the glass size.   
Or if someone has just one frame/glass hanging around, the glass/frame overlap would be the same as yours.

Are you planning to reglaze the glass into the frame yourself?  Or have it professionally done (much greater success.)
There's tricks and different methods to reglaze them (some better than the CD kit) and I've had people (including a very professional yard) use alternate methods with great success.  I have personally done what was essentially the CD method, and had releaks -- and an alternate method 15 yrs ago and nary a releak -- so my M.O. will be similar when I eventually do them all.

795 is usually available only in a commercial building supply place -- it's not big box, K-Mart, or Wally stuff -- check your local builders supplies - or look on dow website for their motor city distributor.  I carry an equivalent for 15.


ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

anaisdog

i saw them listed as deadlight on this forum

looking to replace them all, and they are only plexi, no frames.  mine are cracked to snot.

minney's?

how much goo do you need though, either 4200 or silicone or 795 or boatlife?  catalina says 2 tubes/caulk gun cartridges
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

anaisdog

Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

KWKloeber

ohhhh ok, I'm used to the C30 frames n he MK-1

Can't you pattern the plexi with them in place?  You should be able to find the edge and have new ones pade?

Use the recommended - not 4200 or anything else goop.  Do you have a quote for approx size from a shop?  That price probably that bad
Are you talking CTY or CD???????? prices?  Did you ck with CTY for price or pattern?

k
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

anaisdog

catalina yachts.  they are not certain they have the patterns but they will look, once i sent pictures and measurements.

Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

Jon W

I'm guessing you are talking about the portlights circled in the attached. Mine are in bad shape as well, I wanted to replace them so I talked to Catalina 4th Qtr last year. Other projects took priority so I haven't got them yet.

I was told they do not have patterns and that I would need to send them a template of each portlight. They suggested tracing around each with a heavy paper and labeling which position (ie port forward) the portlight came from, and then fore, aft, inboard, and outboard on each template. I recall the costs for each portlight and the 795 were about what you mentioned. I think they suggested more than two tubes though. I'll look for the E-mail tonight. Somewhere I have installation instructions too.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

anaisdog

hey, you're in san diego.  can i take out your boat?   :D  i'm going in june for no reason than to get away

but yeah, i talked to Len today and he said he'd check about the patterns.  i would just rather get them all at once and made in advance than take them out, leave the boat open for 3 weeks and *then* get them and try to put them in.

please forward the mail if you find it - anaisdog@yaho.com
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

Ken Juul

you might want to check with Select Plastics.  They have patterns for all the opening ports, not sure about the fixed ones.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

anaisdog

Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

Jon W

#13
Unfortunately at the moment my boat is still a project boat. June - July is scheduled to re-bed leaking chainplates, aft cabin opening port lights, and cockpit scuppers.

The costs I got from Len and Lisa were $100 each for the forward portlights, $125 each for the aft portlights, $140 for the beckson opening port for the head, and an avg of 2-3 tubes of 795 for each portlight at $18.95 each.

Quoting the E-mails -

"As I stated in my first email, each boat can be a little different and since your boat was manufactured in California. We do have some patterns but these boats were changed so much that we can't guarantee that they are correct. The patterns would guarantee a correct fit.

For the pattern it is preferable to use a durable paper such as a brown wrapping paper rather than something flimsy like tracing paper. You can probably get something at an Office Depot, Michaels or even a dollar store.

You do not need to take the windows out first. Lay the paper up against the window and trace along the edge of the window with a sharpie or other marker. It is important to mark each pattern as port or starboard and inside or outside depending on where you traced from. Yes, you can trace from the inside. As long as we know that we can adjust for the size of the window.

Finally, if you are ordering all four windows, port and starboard, fore and aft and the windows are the same size on each side other than being mirror images of each other then we only need patterns from one side."

The instructions are for a C30, but should work for a C34.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

KWKloeber

Quote from: anaisdog on May 18, 2016, 12:02:24 PM
catalina yachts.  they are not certain they have the patterns but they will look, once i sent pictures and measurements.

Becki

Why couldn't you template the window from the inside -- I typically use cardboard rather than paper.  You could use poster board - easier than corrugated to cut thru with a razor knife or xacto or kitchen shears, but stiff enough that it doesn't collapse.  And it would be easy to use the template to check the other side windows.   Then measure how much larger one glass is beyond the indie opening -- have your plexi supplier simply add "X" all around to each template when they cut them.  Alternately you can probably feel the edge of the plexi outside and template it from that side.

Alternately, if you remove them, you could do a template for your supplier, and then put them back on temporarily with 3M heavy-duty double sided tape (Wally has it).  It's for exterior use on brick and stone and the stuff holds like crazy -- I've used it to attach car door trim.

Does it really take a window/door place 3 WEEKS to cut some plexi?  I get that stuff cut overnight - no big deal.

ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain