Replacing a circuit on the electrical panel

[tonywright]

I am replacing the masthead wiring, and have come across a problem of access to the circuit breaker for the steaming light. It is the white wire, 3rd breaker in the photo.  The other circuits on the right hand side of the panel pose no obvious challenges (yet!).

To access the screw connecting the wire to the breaker, I would ideally need to remove the plastic cover protecting the back of the 110 volt breakers.  But there is no obvious way of doing this, given that the nuts holding the cover in place (on the right hand side in the photo) seem pretty inaccessible. One possible approach is removing the bus bar behind all the circuit breakers, then removing the circuit breaker for the steaming light, replace the wire and then put everything back. But this seems a tad ridiculous. Anyone found a better method?  Is there an easy way to remove and reinstall the Plexiglas cover that has just not occurred to me?

Tony

[KWKloeber]

Tony,

The head of the breaker screws are on the front panel, right? 
Remove, pull out the breaker beyond the face or to angle it -- to access the load screw.

or


Sears or ACE or good hardware store should carry an offset ratchet screwdriver.  There's several models around.

Would that work?

The mount of the 120v cover is absurd.


kk

[tonywright]

Hi Ken

Thanks for the quick reply! I tried your method 1 yesterday, but the busbar across the back seemed to prevent the breaker from angling out at all. I will try again today, but that is why I thought maybe just removing it from all the breakers might be the way...I like the tool you suggest (assuming it would fit in the clearance available, looks to be less than an inch). I'll see if I can get one: would be useful for other jobs in tight quarters.

Tony

[KWKloeber]

Seems like it should pull out straight-like and the line tab and the load tab/terminal pass thru the opening (given enuf wire length.) 

The hole tolerance is probably too snug to angle it any significant amount -- mea culpa.

Amazon and others have kits with multi bits (torx,sockets, etc) that fit the ratchet.  I think Craftsman has only Phillips and straight bits.  And yes, the bits are pretty short.

kk

[britinusa]

Perhaps this tool from harbor Freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html



Price is right!

Paul

[KWKloeber]

Perhaps this tool from harbor Freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html



Price is right!

Paul

Paul - Yes, good find!  That one might be better than the type that I have. 

My decades-old Craftsman alongside has a double-ended, fixed bit (limited functionality.)  The working side is shorter than the HF, but you have the protrusion on the bitter end.  The HF bits protrude further -- but on only one side -- and they could be ground down and shortened quite "a bit."


Useless info I recently came across - the Phillips system was designed to slip when too much torque was applied - so that the screw head isn't sheared off.  Now I know why I gravitate towards square-drive, recessed hex, or torx head screws for many applications!


kk

[patrice]

Hi,

If you'll need this tool only once, just use a standard drill bit like shown on Paul picture and a close end key for the drill bit size, it is hexagonal like a scew head.

No need to buy it.

http://www.sears.ca/product/craftsman-md-professional-gearwrench-standard-imperial-combination-wrench/609-000467589-40212?recs=igodigital

[tonywright]

I did get a ratchet. You will see in the attached picture that there is no way to use it. Patrice has an interesting idea, I will try that today. Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Ken, you will see from the front of the panel, that I cannot pull the breaker to the front. Removing it to the rear is prevented by the bus bar. So if Patrice's idea doesn't pan out, I will just remove the whole bus bar to get the breaker out. I was trying to avoid that in case I create new problems!

Tony

[mainesail]

Ina  pinch you can carefully bend the CB tab towards the right until you gain screw driver access... These tabs are pretty flexible..

[KWKloeber]

I did get a ratchet. You will see in the attached picture that there is no way to use it. Patrice has an interesting idea, I will try that today. Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Ken, you will see from the front of the panel, that I cannot pull the breaker to the front. Removing it to the rear is prevented by the bus bar. So if Patrice's idea doesn't pan out, I will just remove the whole bus bar to get the breaker out. I was trying to avoid that in case I create new problems!

Tony

Tony see my prev post about using a single-side bit and grinding it shorter if necessary.  Yes that double side is much longer, the craftsman I posted is much shorter (actually could also grind off one side).  That model is not the pc I posted.  is that HF?  That one seems to have single bits, but I haven't been to the store to see it.

Mea culpa, of course the CBs come in from the back.  DUH, don't know what I was thinking 
Removing the bus isn't what big a deal, you have access to all the screws, but I understand that you want to make it as easy as possible.

It would be nice if they just made the screws hex head, 'eh and use a set of ol' time "ignition" wrenches.

kk

[Jim Hardesty]

Tony,
Not sure if your breakers are identical to mine, if they are why not just unscrew it from the jumper bar and remove the screws from the front of the breaker.  Add the wire then reassemble.   Or remove what breakers you need for access to remove the plastic protector then change that to be removed easy.  The plastic protector is a good idea the lack of access is not.
FWIW my MKll has no plastic protector.
Lots of luck with your project,
Jim

[patrice]

I guess it is time to change boat ....... 

[tonywright]

Hi Jim

In the end I just removed the bus bar. Without doing that the breaker was held captive by it, despite removing the front screws. Remove 12 screws in order to get to one....that's boat maintenance!

Tony

[KWKloeber]

Hi Jim

In the end I just removed the bus bar. Without doing that the breaker was held captive by it, despite removing the front screws. Remove 12 screws in order to get to one....that's boat maintenance!

Tony

meanwhile could the AC cover mount/screws be modified so it comes off without dissembling the entire boat?  Velco to hold it in place against the bottom angle pieces?

kk

[Jack Hutteball]

Tony, Jim,

My 2001 MKll does not have the plastic protector either.

Jack