Cracks in hull. Best course of action?

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Ben H.

Hello Everyone,

I'm getting ready to tackle a few more projects to prep my new boat for the water. I look around the outside of the hull a bit the other day and found a few things I'd like to address before bottom painting. What would you all recommend for the following issues? Photos included


  • Crack along balast (I believe PO hit a sandbar or something)
  • Cracks above prop shaft support
  • Hole in keel into bilg
  • Separation in mast through hole?
Ben H.
"Happy Camper"
1989 C34 Mk I #886
Std. Rig, Wing Keel, M25XP Engine
Boat - Westport, Connecticut

Clay Greene

Do a search for "Catalina Smile."  That may be what you have going on with the keel.  There will be some good general guidance in those search results on fiberglass repair.  You'll have to explain more about the bilge and mast opening issues - can't really tell anything from the photos. 
1989, Hull #873, "Serendipity," M25XP, Milwaukee, Wisconsin

KWKloeber

Here's how I had to repair the smile on my 30.  I found 40% of the keel joint was punky and deteriorated once I started getting into it.

kk
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ed Shankle

Looks like the PO hit more than a sand bar, based on the hull crack near the shaft strut.
1. Lots of stuff on the board for repairing the keel joint. Given the hull has taken a hit, don't assume it's just cosmetic.
2. Be sure you check the keel bolts with a torque wrench if you decide not to drop the keel.
3. What did your surveyor say about the crack around the strut? any water intrusion? If it isn't past the gell coat, you'll still want to patch and seal.
4. Looks like the bottom needs a barrier coat before bottom painting.
5. Hole in keel to the bilge is a garboard hole most likely, for draining the keel when on the hard. Did the PO provide the plug?
6. separation in mast partner probably due to some water intrusion and split caused by winter freezing.
Looks like a bit of work ahead of you before splashing. Take your time and do it right.
Had to look close at your sign off; hull # 886; mine is 866!

good luck!
Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Noah

#5
Ben, not to be a nay sayer, but I would suggest you have a surveyor or boat repair expert (with good references) take a look at your hull "project". I believe you may have a bit more issues than just the "Catalina Smile". I don't know your boat's story other than what you said in your first few posts, but hitting hard enough to destroy the rudder, prop and shaft, etc. and the vertical cracks aft of the keel (I think I see in your photos) plus other issues you have mentioned, makes me think there was a reason your boat was "a steal." It may eventually end up sound but, I would get some professional advice to see what's what?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Gary Brockman

It looks to me that the cracks around the strut may be in the filler that is used around the strut to fair the hull. If you dig this filler out you can see if there is any actual damage to the hull.
Squall
1986 Hull #231
Tall Rig/Fin Keel - Elliptical Rudder
M25XPB - Flexofold 2 Blade 15x10
Marina del Rey, California

Ben H.

Survey scheduled for tomorrow morning, 9am. Lets see what we learn.... :shock: :? :abd:
Ben H.
"Happy Camper"
1989 C34 Mk I #886
Std. Rig, Wing Keel, M25XP Engine
Boat - Westport, Connecticut

Ken Heyman

Ed,

Is this common ?

"Hole in keel to the bilge is a garboard hole most likely, for draining the keel when on the hard. Did the PO provide the plug"

Thanks,
Ken
Ken Heyman
1988 c34 #535
"Wholesailor"
Chicago, Il

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Ken Heyman on April 03, 2016, 02:47:25 PM


Is this common ?

"Hole in keel to the bilge is a garboard hole most likely, for draining the keel when on the hard. Did the PO provide the plug"



Not common, but "done" by some:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6412.0.html
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Noah

Ben- don't leave us hanging...what were the results of your survey?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

DaveBMusik

Quote from: Ken Heyman on April 03, 2016, 02:47:25 PM
Ed,

Is this common ?

"Hole in keel to the bilge is a garboard hole most likely, for draining the keel when on the hard. Did the PO provide the plug"

Thanks,
Ken

My surveyor said a garboard drain was the first thing he does when he buys a boat. In the Northeast, with freezing temps and the constant battle with rain water in the bilge, I am thinking of putting one in for next year.
Dave Burgess
Water Music
1986 C34 Hull #206, Fin Keel
Yanmar 3YM30
Noank, CT

Ben H.

Quote from: Noah on April 03, 2016, 06:14:14 PM
Ben- don't leave us hanging...what were the results of your survey?

I'd attached the PDF for all to see, but it's to large, 5mb.... So here is a synopsis. Please excuse typos as I had to retype all these comments.

Quote
Bottom, transom, topside were examined visually and percussion sounded, no signs of repair however a few areas of minor stress scrakcin from hard points internally pressing on the hull from within. No repair recommended. The bulk of the underwater antifouling paint removed...recommended removing the balance before a barrier coat and antifouling paint applied.

The after keel just before the rudder post has a vertical crack from the impact. This needs to be ground out and repaired prior to launch. Additional fiberglass damage sustained during the grounding is with the keel to hull joint. It is suggested that the keel be loosened, re-caulked, and refastened prior to launching to insure eliminating and possibility of leaking. The gelcoat chipped area on the port side of the upper hull should be filled with a colored gelcoat to prevent any water intrusion.

Rigging as available was inspected and foun in good condition without sings of damage or deterioration.

Tanks and tankage areas were examined and found in good condition without signs of damage or leakage. A third water twnk was noted installed aft but not connected.

Shower sump: not sighted (I couldn't find either)

General Findings:
- Engine exhaust hose is starting to check. Consider renewing it as part of the renovations
- Mechanical bilge pump disconnected
- Complete wiring project and test (he said he would come back out to inspect after I was done.)
- Cover positive battery terminals
- Reconnect vent hose to blower and route to lower part of bilge and test.
- Recommended to disconnect and cap off direct head discharge thru hull and fix valve in closed position.
- Secure lose 12 VDC bilge pump and auto switch in bilge.
- Install 120 VAC GFCI outlets in head and at galley
- Ensure all sanitation joints are properly clamped
- Replace missing shaft and propeller... realign the engine after launching and allwoing the vessel to settle for proper operation before navigating.
- Replace missing rudder insuring the the cable and quadrant are properly reinstalled and with proper drag and clearance on the stuffing block
- The upper starboard vinyl coated life line is damaged near a number of stainless stanchions. Recommended replacing with new.
- Check and insure all water tank clamps are properly installed and tightened before filling.
- Investigate keel to hull joint separation and consider dropping keel and resealing before launching
- Grind out and re-fiberglass cracked area on after keel forward of rudder post to ensure structural integrity.
- When stripping the remaining bottom paint, investigate the few areas of stress cracking on bottom, port and starboard to insure that they are no more then surface stress cracks. Seal the few blister voids and the larger gelcoat chip.
- Thoroughly inspect all standing rigging before stepping mast (no present at time of survey)
- Test and insure the LPG electomechanical shut off is properly working before using any galley appliance.
- Consider installing second 12 VDC automatic bilge pump.

Survey open and incomplete until inspection of mechanical and electrical after vessel's projects completed, commissioned, launched, and rigged.
Ben H.
"Happy Camper"
1989 C34 Mk I #886
Std. Rig, Wing Keel, M25XP Engine
Boat - Westport, Connecticut

Noah

#13
Sounds like good news to me Ben--the patient is going to live--albeit with some intensive care and rehab. Use the survey as your to-do list and one step at a time. Hull first--floating and watertight is the goal. The rest will come. Go gettum!
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Indian Falls

How was it determined there was a grounding?  A crack in the after keel from impact? My surveyor claimed there was a grounding and I learned afterward no such thing occurred.
You'd have to hit a rock at 10mph to crack the front, and that's debatable.  I'm really skeptical of such things... if it hit a rock there should be some evidence of a collision.  Coming to a stop on a sandbar is a grounding that would do no such damage.  My survey was a 600$ waste of money but that's just me... I knew I was in trouble when he sniffed the sails and determined them to be good without raising them.  Just saying.
Dan & Dar
s/v Resolution, 1990 C34 997
We have enough youth: how about a fountain of "smart"?