Catalina 34 Tall Rig vs MK-II`

[The Anderies]

Hello everyone and thank you for reading this/ providing a definition for my question. I recently (on July 25th) purchased my first Catalina 34' and have been looking at various websites for refitting/ upgrade parts and equipment. I frequently see MK-I and MK-II listed in product description, but rarely ever see Tall Rig mentioned. That being said, is the MK-II the same as the Tall Rig and if not, how do I know what parts I should use if Tall Rig is not mentioned?

I'm sure there are already posts regarding this, but I wasn't able to locate other than a deactivated link Stu posted on a different cruiser forum from a while back. Additionally, can anyone suggest where I can purchase upper & lower Chain plates & Shrouds for a 1987 Catalina 34' Tall Rig.

Thank you

[Stu Jackson]

Congratulations and welcome.

The dimensions for the tall rig standing rigging can be found in the manual, available in the C34 tech wiki.

IIRC, the tall rigs were only made on the earlier boats, since all the Mark IIs were deck stepped.

Not sure why you'd need new chainplates, can you expand a bit?

[dfloeter]

For an additional $821, our PO could have ordered the tall rig in 1996.  Darn it, I wish he had. 

[The Anderies]

Thanks Stu and I certainly appreciate the help learning where it's all at on the site.

The chainplates & stanchions need rebedding as there has been a good deal of deck delamination due to improper attempts by previous owners to seal these areas off, however there is also dark coffee colored, visible corrosion on the fastener screws directly below deck. I'm not familiar with this style chainplate and the surveyor said it was indicative of requiring replacement. Perhaps he was referring to the bolts only? I've attached a picture to try to give a better description.

[Stu Jackson]

Those are only acorn nuts on top of the bolts from above.  Just get new ones.

It's easy to shine up the flat plate.  Water won't hurt it.

There's a chainplate repair in the wiki, shows you what's in there.  I do one at a time.

Here's how with butyl tape from Maine Sail:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7265.0.html

Please don't use silicone.

[Ted Pounds]

I would tend to agree with the surveyor. If you decide to keep those plates then get them inspected for crevice corrosion by a professional. When you put it all back together use butyl tape as per Mainesail. Good luck.
Btw chain plates are same for tall and short. Only the shroud lengths are different.

[The Anderies]

Thank you gentlemen. I'll be following both suggestions and that link helps me out quite a bit! Chainplate maintenance is sooo important & I want to know how to approach it on this boat!

[John Langford]

Stu is correct that all Mk II masts are deck stepped but the MK IIs could be ordered with a standard or tall rig. The Catalina agent in Vancouver recommended that all his clients order a tall rig because of the light airs in the Pacific Northwest in the summer and most purchasers did.

[The Anderies]

It's the keel stepped tall rig. 

[Ken Juul]

All the other systems are the same, the only difference is the length of the mast, shrouds, halyards and sails.

[The Anderies]

Thanks everyone for the help with this! 

[Dave DeAre]

I have a tall rig 2002 MK2 with a roller furling mast. My understanding is that all MK2's with a roller furling mast were tall rigs. This info came from Doyle Sails who built a vertical batten main to replace the sad Catalina original sail.

[The Anderies]

Speaking of furling configurations... does anybody have any experience retrofitting a furling mainsail or boom? I've heard a lot of pros and cons & can think of some of my own, but whenever I need to reef when sailing solo, I can't help but think of it.

[Roc]

About reefing, if you think you should...  it's already late.  For the mainsail, I lower my traveller and spill wind off which helps a lot.  Sometimes it's almost parallel to the wind with just the leech catching a small amount of wind power.....  I have the stock one reef line system from Catalina..  I've been meaning to make it two, with the second line to adjust the clew.  However, I usually move the traveller down first and works well.....for cruising and making the ride comfortable at least...

[Gary]

Rebedding Chainplates, additional hints.

1. Access to the chainplates is behind the starboard and port cushions. You will need two 5/8" box wrenches and some flexibilty  to reach without seeing your work.
2. There are standard thread, stainless 5/8 nuts, lock nuts, washers and spacers. Each chain plate is a set. Be sure to keep the parts together. There are different width spacers, number of washers and even length of bolts for each chain plate. So they are a matched set.
3. Study and follow Mainesails tutorial and use his butyl rubber. It is superior ! It is very easy stuff to work with and is not messy.
4. Clean the chain plates, nuts, bolts and face plates at home with a wire brush mounted on a 3/8 drill. You can house the drill and wirebrush in a vise and hold the stainless parts with a vise grip. Or if you have a bench mounted wire brush even easier. All parts will clean up like new. Don't rush. Take a cup of coffee to your work area and clean the parts carefully...take your time being immaculate with this work.
5. It is good to have help with the re-install. One person on deck and one below decks tightening the stainless nuts. There should be a nut and lock not on each. Mine was missing a number of lock nuts....go figure!
6. Do not use butyl ribber or any caulk below decks on the chainplates. You want to know right away if any water is getting by the deck faceplates so as not to get water into the deck core.

It is a very intuitive process and pretty straightforward work with the help of the board and its tutorials......just thought I would add what I have experienced in doing this job. Everyone will need to do this as preventive maintenance at some point.

Gary