jib fairlead & jib sheet truning blocks for Mark I

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SPembleton

Simple rookie question. My port jib sheet rubs against the cowling. I have tried to adjust the position of the aft fairlead, but cannot find a point where it does not rub. I have Lewmar 46 winches.  Is this typical, or am I doing something wrong? Is there a fix?
Steve Pembleton
Holland, MI
1986 Mk1 Fin, Tall

"We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust our sails."

Stu Jackson

Steve, do you mean coaming?  On our boat we have two big cheek blocks way aft and have two jib fairlead blocks on each side on the tracks.  I don't recall if they were options when the boat was made.  The Mark IIs have these cheek blocks standard.  If you don't want to invest in cheek blocks, try a rub strake where the line rubs on the coaming.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

SPembleton

#2
Yes, I meant coaming. 

So your jib leads go through 3 blocks between the jib clew and the winch?

I am going to the boat today.  I will have to look to see if i can put in cheek blocks. I will also go to another marina that has Cat34s to see what they have.
Steve Pembleton
Holland, MI
1986 Mk1 Fin, Tall

"We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust our sails."

Steve_in_lex

Mine's set up like Stu's.  Two pulleys per sheet: one on the track and the cheek block aft of the jib winch.  Works fine.
Steve Saudek
2005 C-34 MK II
#1701
"Brisa"

Phil Spicer

   Stu, do you have a picture showing the set-up of your cheek blocks? I have cheek blocks to add but not been sure about location. Thought about making a mounting bracket, or just moving the port side furler cleat outboard and put the cheek block on the coaming.
  Thoughts?
Phil & Marsha,Sandusky Sailing Club. Steamboat is #789,tall/wing-Unv M25XP/Hurth ZF 50 trans.

Stu Jackson

Phil, the blocks are mounted on one inch teak blocks, just forward of the pushpit stanchions.  The top of the teak blocks and the cheek blocks are as high as they can go without sticking up over the coaming.  Not a great picture, but you might be able to blow it up.  I'll try to get a better one later this week, unless someone else has one to share.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Phil Spicer

   Thank you Stu, That was one of my thoughts. Not as much work as making a ss bracket to bridge between the rail & coaming, but a really nice solution. What did you do with your furler? Mine has a factory mounted cleat about where you put your cheek block.
Phil & Marsha,Sandusky Sailing Club. Steamboat is #789,tall/wing-Unv M25XP/Hurth ZF 50 trans.

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Phil Spicer on June 29, 2015, 09:28:33 AM
    What did you do with your furler? Mine has a factory mounted cleat about where you put your cheek block.

Phil, I forget what the PO did with the furling line when we first got the boat.  It had a crappy CDI system.  I replaced it with a ProFurl LCI32 system.  I installed a simple stanchion mounted block at the base of the pushpit forward-most stanchion and put a Johnson stanchion cleat above it.  Many skippers have used ratchet blocks there, since they use larger jibs than we do and reef them sometimes, so the ratchet comes in handy.  We never reef either of our two jibs:  the smaller 85% is used during the high winds of summer, our big 110% is for the winter or summer racing.  Either jib is either all the way out or furled, so I never felt the need for a ratchet block, since once I start using the furling, I keep hauling away until the jib is furled.

Our furling line is run through Johnson bullet blocks that we placed OUTSIDE the stanchions so as to not reduce the amount of space on the side decks when going forward.  Even though the bullet blocks are not that big, when they were inside they became ankle knockers.  I've never seen the need for ball bearing blocks for furling lines.  Those simple bullet blocks were put on without having to take off the lifelines, too.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

#8
Phil : Being only one hull # away, here's what I did.

I moved the factory cleat when I installed the "jib sheet turning blocks".  Then I installed the port side block and installed a backing plate by removing the engine instrument panel.  
Note that when installing the starboard side block the block need to be higher and on a standoff or the sheet line will touch the coaming!! I installed a 4" Beckson post to install a backing plate.
(because starboard sheet winds on the winch from the inside of the cockpit!! Where as the post side sheet line winds on the winch from the outside of the cockpit!!)

A few thoughts


Ron, Apache #788

Noah

Ron- you lost me.. Why is the jib lead turning block placement different port and starbord?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

SPembleton

Thanks for the pic Stu.  I was at the boat today and found 2 screws on the top surface of the coaming, aft of the port jib winch. They don't have an apparent use.  Can this be the location of a block? If so, does anyone have a pic, and perhaps a brand, model/size for the appropriate block?

Steve Pembleton
Holland, MI
1986 Mk1 Fin, Tall

"We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust our sails."

Stu Jackson

Steve, no, those screws are not for a cheek block.  The block goes on the outside of the coaming.  Take a look underneath and find out what's there, no idea what a PO did.

Garhauer will know exactly what blocks to use for your C34.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Phil Spicer

   Thanks Ron. Got it. Without a standoff you create the problem on the stb side that you are fixing on the port side. Will try to get to stb side from lazerette before adding a port.
Phil & Marsha,Sandusky Sailing Club. Steamboat is #789,tall/wing-Unv M25XP/Hurth ZF 50 trans.

Roc

Not sure if this helps, but on the MkII there is a cheek block mounted on the coaming, just aft of the winch.  Shown in the lower left corner of this picture.
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Stu Jackson

Roc,the concept is the same, but the deck molds on the Mark II are different than the Mark Is, so that the cheek block is flat on your boat, while it is vertical on ours.

I'll get some close up pictures today and post them later.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."