Boarding over the Transom

britinusa · June 15, 2015, 06:28:19 AM

I had to get on and off the boat over the transom several times this weekend (Cleaning off the old name, putting the name on the transom and Polyglowing it)

I'm 6' and agile, my wife, Peggy is 5' 6" and not so agile.

I cannot see her being able to get on and off the dink by going over the transom.

The biggest hurdle is the tube that connects the port and starboard parts of the pushpit.

Has anyone cut that bar out?

I was thinking of cutting it out.

Anyone done that?

Paul

Andrew Harvey · June 15, 2015, 06:58:10 AM

Hi Paul,
That bar is a pain, my left knee is feeling it from climbing over it for 14 years.
I t can be done but you have to reinforce the stern rail by other means as to not compromise it's integrity.
There is another C34 at our marina that has made the modification..I will try to remember to take a photo
Andrew

patrice · June 15, 2015, 07:53:55 AM

Hi,

On my 89 version, the middle bar was not there.
Make it a lot easier to climb aboard....

And I also added a platform on the transom. I made it to be temporary at the time to see how it would work, but after 2 seasons, it is still there

Check the thread for more info and some pictures of others installations

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7415.15.html

KWKloeber · June 15, 2015, 03:15:40 PM

The C30 MK-I has that bar - it's on my C list to make a removable one using bimini hinged jaw slides on the uprights, and inside eye ends on the tube. Normally it will be held in place with spring-loaded, quick-release clevis pins. Maybe a thru bolt on one end so I just drop or raise the bar (and not drop it in the drink.) It will still a narrow opening, but easier and safer than climbing over it. I could do a sketch if that's confusing.

Ken

britinusa · June 15, 2015, 06:54:28 PM

Thanks guys,

IMHO the bar does nothing except made it easier to install the original push-pit.

looking at the pic of the swim platform, the step up and over the bar is a major challenge.

I'm going to cut it out and put an additional step between the top of the swim ladder and the top of the transom, just below the rub rail.

An alternative might be to cut the bar off, then drill out 7/8" horizontal into the middle tubes and put in a sliding tube that can be pinned into place.
unless anyone here can tell me that the bar is a structural thing, to me it looks redundant.

Paul

Kevin Henderson · June 15, 2015, 08:48:37 PM

I've been thinking of doing this myself for the same reasons... Good article right here in the Tech Wiki.... (Great source for the good stuff)!

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Transom-Pushpit_Rail_Removal

Andrew Harvey · June 16, 2015, 05:56:57 AM

Hi Ken,
Please send a sketch, sounds like a more economical solution.
The C-34 that I referred to earlier removed the entire rail for rework at an SS shop
Andrew

britinusa · June 16, 2015, 06:15:42 AM

In preparation:

Purchased 2 of 1" SS Rail Circular Mounts & 2 of 1" SS Rail Elbows (http://www.marinepartdepot.com)

I'll mount them just below the rub rail and use 1" SS tube to create the step support

Then a piece of Starboard for the step held on with U Bolts cut to size with sunken nylock nuts.

I'll use my 4" grinding wheel to remove the bar and then polish the cut ends with my dremmel.

Then a look-see to determine if I want to put the sliding bar in place, if not, I'll close the holes with some Metal Epoxy Putty.

There was a wood 'step' below the center rail bar on top of the transom, the PO had that replaced with Starboard. I would like to extend that slightly creating a 3rd step (it, my new step and the current top step of the swim ladder)

And of course, some pics to show the result.

Paul

Roc · June 16, 2015, 06:22:16 AM

Be wary of buying things from marinepartdepot. Although the site says 100% refund, it's not true. You will do what the instructions say and never get your money back, after you sent the parts back. The phone will keep on ringing and ringing with no answer if you try to follow up. I paid using Paypal, put in a complaint. Once Paypal contacted them, I immediately got my money back. If it wasn't for Paypal, I probably wouldn't have received the refund. So, if you buy from them, use Paypal, or if not, consider keeping what you get.

Bobg · June 16, 2015, 06:25:57 AM

I too hated that bar, got brave enough one day and took a cutoff wheel and cut it off, went that summer with it, no problems, then cleaned it up with a Tee and set screws, and rectangular base on both sides, seems strong enough, now building a swim platform like patrice did. Don't be afraid to cut it out

KWKloeber · June 16, 2015, 12:50:41 PM

Quote from: Andrew Harvey on June 16, 2015, 05:56:57 AM
Hi Ken,
Please send a sketch, sounds like a more economical solution.
The C-34 that I referred to earlier removed the entire rail for rework at an SS shop
Andrew

Andrew, I believe my 30 rail is just a miniature of your 34 rail (or is yours just a big daddy of mine?)
Maybe these will show what I mean (tentatively):

On the tube I would use an inside eye :
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-17525248830734_2268_3411929
or an outside eye:
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-17525248830734_2268_36343822

Next to the the uprights, I would use an inside hinge:
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-17525248830734_2268_3077092
I have also seen an outside hinge (like the outside eye above), but I can't locate a picture of one right now.

On one end of the tube, I would drill out the hinge/eye threads to use a spring-loaded-ball clevis pin
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Ero%2BE3zNL.jpg
or
http://shop.mariner-sails.com/images/1365217364254374966943.jpeg

On the other end, either the same, or leave the machine screw in place so that I don't drop the bar in the drink - or use a clevis and cotter pin or ring

Below are pics of my back porch that my stainless welder buddy and I "remanufactured" from the OEM rail (mostly buddy - I provided dumb labor and brew,) and the swim platform/ladder that I modded from the OEM ladder bracket.

(No, it's not an optical illusion - the platform pics were prior to us adding the back porch.)

Ken

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britinusa · June 16, 2015, 01:57:31 PM

Quote from: Roc on June 16, 2015, 06:22:16 AM
Be wary of buying things from marinepartdepot. Although the site says 100% refund, it's not true. You will do what the instructions say and never get your money back, after you sent the parts back. The phone will keep on ringing and ringing with no answer if you try to follow up. I paid using Paypal, put in a complaint. Once Paypal contacted them, I immediately got my money back. If it wasn't for Paypal, I probably wouldn't have received the refund. So, if you buy from them, use Paypal, or if not, consider keeping what you get.

IMHO, never had any issues, but never ordered anything I either didn't want, screwed up the order, or wasn't prepared to keep if I got it wrong.

I have been really pleased with the quality of their stuff and shipping is excellent. I get their coupon emails every week, so if I have to, I'll wait to order stuff until a coupon code arrives.

I built my C250 Solar Panel Pole using their bits (Pole from WM) and it worked out really good. Our new C34 is probably lower at the stern due to all of the hardware on the back, but I'm working on removing some of that.

The Swim ladder upgrade is my first bigish project on this boat.

Paul

KWKloeber · June 16, 2015, 03:30:26 PM

Quote from: KWKloeber on June 16, 2015, 12:50:41 PM

On the tube I would use an inside eye :
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-17525248830734_2268_3411929
or an outside eye:
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-17525248830734_2268_36343822

Next to the the uprights, I would use an inside hinge:
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-17525248830734_2268_3077092
I have also seen an outside hinge (like the outside eye above), but I can't locate a picture of one right now.

On one end of the tube, I would drill out the hinge/eye threads to use a spring-loaded-ball clevis pin
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Ero%2BE3zNL.jpg
or
http://shop.mariner-sails.com/images/1365217364254374966943.jpeg

On the other end, either the same, or leave the machine screw in place so that I don't drop the bar in the drink - or use a clevis and cotter pin or ring

Tube end...

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss351/mandm1200/100_1037.jpg

If you want make the cut and to try out omitting the tube, temporarily use a nylon inside eye (cut off the eye) to close off the cut end at the upright, or find a plastic plug (Lowes?) that fits tight
http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/008236/008236716801lg.jpg
or get something like a large rubber "wellnut" and insert/tighten to finish off the cut end.

There's probably a dozen + 1 ways to finish off the cut w/o welding it shut and polishing it off. I think I have even seen stainless tubing plugs in bimini hardware.

Al's tube removed and welded up.
http://www.c34.org/projects/kindred-spirit/ladderup2.gif

Ken

Ron Hill · June 16, 2015, 05:30:40 PM

Guys : A number of C34 owners have cut off that attaching lower piece to the pushpit lower attachment.

Personally I'd leave it in place as it is part of the structural integrity of the entire pushpit!!

If it's too difficult to board and step over a bar that's about 10"/12" over the top of the transom, I'd recommend changing to boarding other side.

My crew and I are 82yrs young so maybe some of the older people need more assistance.

A thought

britinusa · June 16, 2015, 05:48:23 PM

Ron, it's not how young we are, it's the lifetime exertion that matters.

My wife, Peggy, is very happy to be on the boat, but it's getting off that's the issue!

I'm 16 years your younger, and hope to be able to board the boat from the water for another 20 years!

Hope you are enjoying your boat still!

Paul