Installing Espar heater

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Paulus

I am installing a Espar heater in the port locker.  Running a the heat duct(60mm) thru the space by the vanity and then between the hull the liner(behind the head) with a closable grill in the head and then continuing through the wet locker with a grill that stay open under the chart table.  This is my thinking??  Would like to hear from others that have installed a heater?  Maybe there is a better way?
Thanks,
Paul
Cool Change 1989 #944

mainesail

Which model heater? Marine or truck kit?
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

Paulus

Cool Change 1989 #944

lazybone

Quote from: Paulus on February 20, 2015, 08:25:07 AM
I am installing a Espar heater in the port locker.  Running a the heat duct(60mm) thru the space by the vanity and then between the hull the liner(behind the head) with a closable grill in the head and then continuing through the wet locker with a grill that stay open under the chart table.  This is my thinking??  Would like to hear from others that have installed a heater?  Maybe there is a better way?
Thanks,
Paul

Vanity ?
Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677

Paulus

#4
I only bought the heating unit including the digital thermostat, not the kit.  Have contacted Sure Marine for the ducts etc.   Still would like some input on running the duct work.
Paul
Cool Change 1989 #944

Craig Illman

Yes, I had an outlet in the head, ran behind the head, through the back of the hanging locker, then behind the holding tank and an outlet near the forward bulkhead. 60mm seems like small duct. Do you have just a Espar D3?

mainesail

Quote from: Paulus on February 22, 2015, 06:58:47 AM
I only bought the heating unit, not the kit.  Have contacted Sure Marine for the ducts etc.   Still would like some input on running the duct work.
Paul 

When you say just the heating unit, what came with it? It is quite critical to get the right parts for a marine installation or it can be dangerous.

As for duct work try to get the supply and return separated well. You may find that the head will get warm even with the grill closed as they do tend to leak a bit. Plan it out carefully and be sure you can get a drill where you need to for the holes.

It sounds like you have a D-2 with 60mm ducting. Some marine kits are avaible with a 75mm plenum which is better for long distances. The 60mm duct on a D2 I'd recommend keeping as short as possible. If you want more even heat use a 12V cabin fan to move it around. The D2 will heat a 34 just fine, unless temps go below 30F, then it will work pretty hard. The 60mm duct on a D2 is best kept short with minimal bends or restrictions..
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

Paulus

I need to run about 12-15ft duct. ( Sure Marine in Seattle has a very friendly sales and parts department.)  Appreciate the input.
Thanks, Paul

PS  vanity?  Is it a need or want.  A want for those few cold and damp days in the North Channel.  We use a Buddy propane heater but really want to replace it.
Cool Change 1989 #944

Stu Jackson

waterdog (aka Steve Dolling) posted a tip years ago:  he ran the ductwork under the mirror but above the counter in the head.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Paulus

Still would like to run it between the hull and liner in the head?
Paul
Cool Change 1989 #944

Stu Jackson

#10
Quote from: Paulus on February 22, 2015, 02:14:30 PM
Still would like to run it between the hull and liner in the head?
Paul

Paul, I think I understand, but...

What I suggest you do is an advanced search.  Use the "Search" tab at the top left of the screen, not the fill-in box on the upper right.  Type in "duct" and "waterdog" (author, i.e., "by user") and there are many ideas in the bunch of topics where it has been discussed.  There are only so many ways to get from point A to point B.  :D

The software doesn't allow me to post the link to the results, sorry, but you can do it.

It's the resource that can help you in your deliberations, regardless of what you are leaning on doing.

Good luck.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Paulus

Thanks Stu,
I tried ducts but very little info.  Will try the combination.
Paul
Cool Change 1989 #944

dfloeter

Does anyone have an opinion on the marine Espar versus the truck version?   The difference in price is noticeable but I have wondered if these changes will actually make a difference, especially in our fresh water environment on Lake Michigan.
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20

Paulus

From my research there is no difference in the heating unit, only in the exhaust and duct work.
Paul
Cool Change 1989 #944

Jeff Tancock

Mine came installed but I made some changes.
The furnace is in the port side locker. Exhaust straight back through the transom, air intake comes from the aft lazarette.
The fixed grill is just below the door of the wet locker and blows into the main salon with additional vents that can be closed in the aft stateroom(blowing across where your feet would be), in the head below the teak seat and in the forward cabin.
The duct runs behind the liner (under the toilet paper compartment and behind the toilet), into the wet locker then forward under the nav table.
All out of sight. Air circulates very well and heats nicely.
Jeff Tancock
Stray Cat #630
Victoria, BC
Canada
1988 25xp