shaft removal

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iwillmott

I have the age old problem of a worn cutlas bearing. Can I get the shaft out of a c34 with removing the rudder? Any hints would be appreciated

prh77

With the addition of some grease and a slick surface where the shaft passed the rudder [ plastic ] I was able to remove my drive shaft. I then cut and removed bearing. I then installed shaft and  pressed in new bearing. If I had installed the bearing first. would not have been able to reinstall drive shaft .
Peyton Harrison Hull # 597 1988 "Trinity"

Steve S.

There are tools that can push out your bearing without removing the shaft, only the prop.  Here in Chesapeake Bay, the local fleet keeps one such tool.  You may be able to find a place to rent one.  A heck of alot easier than removing the shaft.  Just be sure to check if your bearing has set screws.  Some do (mine did). And some don't.
Steve S.
Hull 548
Kuching Ayer
Chesapeake Bay

Roland Gendreau



I used such a tool to replace the bearing on my 1992 C34 and it took only about 45 minutes to press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing.  No shaft removal was necessary.

You can get borrow a cutlass bearing removal tool from the C36 International association by joining that group.

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183
Roland Gendreau
1992 MK 1.5
Gratitude #1183
Bristol, RI

iwillmott

thanks for the replies and advice. The shaft be bent! I hit a piece of snow fence better known to southerners as contruction site fencing while going under the Geo Washington bridge in New York. It sounded like a cannon going off . Anyway got hauled at Liberty park Marina and removed. But it's the only thing I can think of that would bend the brass shaft or whatever oem is. Keep the cards n' letters comin folks.

Stu Jackson

The February 2007 Tech Notes Online has an article called Shaft Removal.  It answer your original question.  I found it by looking at the Knowledgebase as suggested in the topic The Guide to the C34 Website.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ted Pounds

The OEM shaft is bronze.  Replace it with stainless steel.  As Ron says, 'just a thought...'
Ted Pounds
"Molly Rose"
1987 #447

Ron Hill

#7
iw : Remove the shaft as others have mentioned or cut the bent shaft in to 2 pieces ( it isn't good anymore) and pull it out easily.  Then order a new stainless shaft the length of the old one.  Remove the old cutless bearing, then install the new shaft and finally the new cutless bearing.  As mentioned it's easily done with the special tool - which many marina's/boat yards have.  
Ron, Apache #788

pablosgirl

Hi,

Please explain why a SS shaft is better than a bronze one.

Thanks,
Paul
Paul & Cyndi Shields
1988 hull# 551 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
M25XP

Ron Hill

Paul : Good question!! 
Doubt that you will get too many replies on this - unless I try it first !!

I believe that a stainless shaft is stronger than bronze.  It might also be less apt to erosion/corrosion that the bronze.  Softer bronze wears more in the cutless gearing area.  Thoughts !! 
Ron, Apache #788

Navyguy

I just had my cutlass bearing and old bronze shaft replaced w/ a new stainless steel shaft.  Corrosion got the best of my shaft and it was literally flaking off in layers.  Now I'm trying to trouble shoot the corrosion problem.  My boat yard said that stainless steel is harder and less prone to electrolysis (but not impervious).  Another expensive boat yard visit....

sailaway

Navyguy. S/S prop shaft that is flaking off is caused by lack of oxygen. I seen a prop shaft in cruising world that was in a drip less packing shaft log that had flaked off due to alack of oxygen. s/s is made for above the water line. under water it is no better than mild steel. If the boat is moving ,that is better, more oxygen. If the boat is in the marina a  lot  there  will be more flaking. Charlie

Jim Hardesty

There are other materials designed mainly for ship shafts.  Nitronic 50 if my memory is working this morning.  If your boat is in a real bad environment it may be worth looking into.  Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA