Holding Tank Repair

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mtullier

I have a small leak in my holding tank.  I have not taken the tank out to inspect the crack.  Has anyone ever repaired a leak on their holding tank with epoxy or any other compound that will last?  Please share your experiences. 

Thanks,
Mike
Mike

Ted Pounds

I think there is some kind of glue-gun thingy that you can use to 'weld' those tanks.  I'm not sure where you find them or how well they work.  Since it's the holding tank I think I would be inclined to just replace it....
Ted Pounds
"Molly Rose"
1987 #447

Stu Jackson

Are you SURE it's the tank and not the connections on the hoses?

Those tanks RARELY leak.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Jon Schneider

I haven't repaired one, but I did recently receive a new one from Catalina Direct.  Very nice.  Double the thickness of the original, although it's a sort of translucent oyster shell color.  I think I liked the opaque black of the original better.  Does anybody really want to see its contents?  Smells great, though it's not installed yet :wink:
Jon Schneider
s/v Atlantic Rose #1058 (1990)
Greenport, NY USA

Steve S.

Jon - If I may be so rude, but how much did that set you back?
Steve S.
Hull 548
Kuching Ayer
Chesapeake Bay

Jon Schneider

Not rude at all.  Looks like I was charged $231, but it's listed on CD's site as $242.  Hmmm... can't imagine this would be a sale item.  There was probably shipping on a separate ticket.  I didn't get any fittings; I'm reusing the ones I've got.  Say >$275 when all was said and done.  Took about three weeks to get.
Jon Schneider
s/v Atlantic Rose #1058 (1990)
Greenport, NY USA

sailaway

Mike I have never repaired a holding tank but am a big fan of gorilla glue. Repaired the cooling system on my engine with gorilla glue and finished the season. Charlie

Ron Hill

Mike : I'd scratch up the surface around the crack (80grit) and either use epoxy or glass with a layer of mat. 
Ron, Apache #788

Bob K

Mike, if it was mine, I'd just replace it.  Just think - after you fix it, every time you get a whiff of the tank smell you'll be wondering if it's your repair giving out, or the smell leaking through it, ....... You don't need that extra worry, do you?
Bob K
Prosit
1992 #1186
Northern Chesapeake Bay

mtullier

Thank you to all for the input.  I believe I will just purchase a new tank.  Jon sold me on the oyster colored "see through" tank.  For $230 I can eliminate the possability of doing the job twice.

Mike
Mike

Jon Schneider

Quote from: mtullier on March 17, 2009, 07:39:30 PM
Jon sold me on the oyster colored "see through" tank.  For $230 I can eliminate the possability of doing the job twice.

Man, I'm calling Catalina Direct tomorrow to collect my commission!
Jon Schneider
s/v Atlantic Rose #1058 (1990)
Greenport, NY USA

Matley

I have found an excellent adhesive that could solve your waste tank repair problem. 
While some on this list have advised that you replace the tank, I'd give this stuff a try first.  You can always replace the tank later if you have to.

I discovered this stuff while trying to fix a crack in my hot tub shell. It worked very well, and has the amazing property of being able to bond to PVC and Polyethylene as well as vinyl plastic.  It is flexible when dry and bonds under water.

What more could you want?

Try some Mr. Sticky!  http://www.a-a-i.net/uwguses.htm

If the crack is difficult to get access to, I have another solution that sounds crazy but will work.  Go out and buy several (4 or 5) cans of cayenne pepper.  Mix the pepper into a bucket of water and try to get the mixture into your waste tank, as close to your leak as possible. Let it sit overnight, and the pepper will flow to the leak and plug it up.  I have used this on my hot tub leak and it worked but you have to do a major clean up to use the tub.  The pepper patch didn't hold up and the leak returned after a few weeks. But in your waste tank, under very little pressure and with no circulation to wash the pepper out, it might do the trick for quite a while.

I was told this cayenne pepper trick used to be a mechanic favorite for repairing radiator leeks. I don't see why it wouldn't work in a waste tank. 

Roland Gendreau

When I replaced my holding tank 2 years ago, I compared prices from CD, Catalina Yachts and the tank manufacturer (I forgot the name).  I had assumed the lowest cost would have been from the tank manufacturer.

Surprisingly, the lowest price was from Catalina Yachts.

So check with them also.

Roland Gendreau

Gratitude#1183
Roland Gendreau
1992 MK 1.5
Gratitude #1183
Bristol, RI

Lance Jones

As I've mentioned in earlier posts, CY in their move to FL has "Discovered" many parts they didn't know they had and can give them to you at a great price.
Lance Jones
1988  C-34 Kitty's Cat
S/N 622

Mike Vaccaro

Small leaks in any type of tank can usually be temporarily repaired by preparing a "5200 patch."  3M 5200 adhesive sealant and thin aluminimum (2024 aviation or a 5000-series marine alloy), stainless and some types of plastic work well.  If the area of the patch is first scuffed with 60-80 grit sandpaper, adhesion will be increased.  The patch may outlast the tank and or boat, depending on substrate!  Corners can be more problematic.  A long corner can usually be repaired by bending the sheet metal on a brake to the appropriate angle.  We keep some old plastic packaging material around for the corners of square (or nearly square) tanks.  Keep in mind the sealing is done by the 5200--the patch is a bit of structural reinforcement to prevent the crack from propigating further.   

Proper repair of plastic tanks requires welding or replacement, but this type of patch will generally get you home and may end up lasting for a surprisingly long time thereafter. 

Cheers,

Mike   
1988 C34 Hull #563
Std Rig / Wing Keel