Traveler Cleats

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Vic Suben

I have hull no. 453, a 1987 C-34.  The cam cleats for the mainsheet traveler are forward of the dodger.  When the traveler is under load, it is a bear to release the control line to move the traveler to leeward.  It seems it would be easier if the cleats were located behind the dodger (perhaps at the edge of the cabin).  Has anyone worked out a way to relocate the traveler?

Thanks,

Vic & Judy Suben
Surprise

rm_fleming

Vic,

I installed the Garhauer traveler upgrade kit.  It is probably the best purchase I have made for my boat.  You get increased mechanical advantage with the extra and larger sheaves.  The jamb cleets are tipped at a downward angle to make release much easier even though they remain forward of the dodger.  Great value and quality.  Garhauer number MT-2.  http://garhauermarine.com

mvazmina

I have moved mine back with no problems, I also did the traveler upgrade and the combination of the 2 make it very easy to adjust the traveler. I routed the line via a deck organizer. The route does add a little resistance but releasing under load is still not a problem.

Mike Smith

Vic -

I had two vertical reinforced 6" slits installed in the vinyl windows of my dodger directly in line with the traveller cam cleats and the coachtop winches. The slits allow us to use the winches with the traveller control lines and easily tension and release them as if the dodger was not there. Picture follows.

Mike

Mike and Jan Smith
S/V Breezer WCX8545
www.mikejansmith.com

tandm

The traveler cam cleats on Peregrine are also on the aft edge of the cabin roof.  The dodger has two brass grommets in the plastic windows to allow for pass through.  There are two blocks a little past half-way between the traveler and the cam cleats to make the lines parallel to the deck before entering the cam cleats. This setup allows me to trim the main ( and, therefore, adjust weather helm and heel.) from the wheel, which is very handy when single handing on a puffy day.

td

Tom P, IMPULSE #233, '86

I'm another who has replaced the original traveler with the Garhauer ball-bearing units; best $$$ ever spent!!!

I didn't want the extra hardware, more holes in the boat, and the extra friction of routing the lines under/around the dodger to the cockpit, so I stuck with the basic design (cleats at each end of the traveler).  However, I did replace the Garhauer cleats with Harken swivel cleats so I could work both lines from the center of the cockpit (I don't have to move to each end of the traveler to get a straight pull to adjust the lines, the swivel cleats turn toward centerline)...The existing stainless plates (cleat mounts) was also the perfect size to accept the Harken swivel cleats, just have to drill a couple of holes for mounting...

My dodger has approx 6" wide zipper panels (clear) on each side that when unzipped, allows unobstructed use of the traveler control lines, but still allows the front of the dodger to stay in place (only the 6" panels are raised on each side, the front of the doger stays down)...

Tom

Roc

At one of the boat shows, I asked Bill from Garhauer about moving the cam cleats inside the dodger and he showed me new blocks with a longer mount for the cleats to bring it through the hole in the dodger.  So, such a system does exist.  I didn't buy it, but always say I will after using my traveler because it is hard to use. My dodger glass does have a vertical slit, but it still is hard to uncleat the line.

Roc-
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Stu Jackson

#7
Traveller Control Lines

Our boat had the cam cleats mounted on the aft end of the cabintop when we bought her (mid-1998).  We ended up adding rub strakes.

Before we upgraded to the new Garhauer traveller system, I sent Guido the old mainsheet car and the end cars, because I thought we'd be fixing the old one (one of the bolts in the main car connection to the mainsheet fitting had shearer off when I was servicing it).  

When he told me how little much more it would be to improve the whole setup, I went for it.

So, instead of having Garhauser put the "standard" cam cleats on the end cars, which he had in his hands, I advised him to NOT install them.  He was kind enough to suggest that he mount the new end sheaves on our old end cars so we didn't have to drill and tap through the traveller beam for the new end blocks, he put 'em right on the end cars for us!

So, if you're going to do the upgrade, send the end cars in and have the new end sheaves put on the cars without cam cleats - saves you two steps, and the price is sure right.

I don't remember anyone specifically writing up the relocation of the cam cleats back to the cabintop for the C34s, but there was an article in Mainsheet in the late 90's by Jim Moe, who owns both a C30 and a C34, and his pictures appeared in the C30 section of Mainsheet.

Our lines come through slits in the front window of the dodger.  I am assuming that the PO got wise after a while when he first installed the newer aft cam cleats.  When we get our new dodger, we'll just have them make holes instead of slits.

Stu
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

ftompa

HI, I made up new mounting plates ,they turn the cam cleats about 45 degrees .The cleats line up with the zipper for the dodger.Works great .I can send print or make some. Frank Tompa Glory Bee 589

Roc

Frank,
Take a picture and post it on this site.  I certainly would like to take a look  :)

Roc-
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Mark Elkin

Frank,
Your mounting plates seem like a good candidate for a Project page.

If you send me all/any details for them (pictures, drawings, fabrication and installation notes), I can create and post a web page for you (and for us all).  Send the files to melkin@san.rr.com.

Mark Elkin
Yorkshire Rose, #133
Mark S Elkin

skip

Not sure if I have same traveler arrangement.   I have a 6:1 and I reversed the line on the blocks to have it exit towards the bow.   It angles approx 45 degrees just inside the cowl vents down to a pin pivit block mounted on the wood of the companionway hatch frame.   From there the lines run along the frame under the dodger and back to cleats next to the cockpit area.    Have digital camera but I am off to Paris next week and don't expect to return to boat for two weeks.  Can e-mail pics if you want