Rigging a Barber Hauler

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britinusa

Confession: I have never setup a preventer or barber hauler on any of my boats.

This Sunday, I went racing (Gunkhole class) on a Catalina 36, on board was a very experienced sailor (now in his late 70s) and he had previously suggested to the owner that he setup a preventer an barber hauler.

I've heard about both, done a little reading, never really got the concept.

That all changed on Sunday! We were running from the 1st mark to the 2nd in about 8kts wind.

Being the more nimble of the crew, I set about rigging the preventer.

It consisted of a 3:1 block setup, the lower block having a cam cleat. Upper block shackled to the aft boom bale, the lower block shackled to the stanchion opposite the mast.

With the Preventer setup, my reaction was - WOW! - what a difference! We basically steered by the Jib, keeping it filled.


With the Jib flying out, the primary jib sheet was running from the Jib Car, up over the lifelines and out to the Jib Clew.
Then he suggested we rig the Barber Hauler.

My instructions were: Attach the Snap Block to the outboard rail, Attach the snap shackle to the Jib Clew, run the line from the clew outside the lifelines, through the block then beneath the lifelines and back to the cockpit.

Again, Wow! the sail filled much better, the leech was not flogging and stayed full more than without the hauler.


Ok, that's the setup.

Was it a Barber Hauler???

From what I've read online since Sunday, it's not! Whatever it is, it works.

So my main question is: How do you guys set a 'Barber Hauler' is it to open the slot or close it when close hauled? Or is it like we did, used to improve the shape of the sail when running downwind?

TIA.

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Gary Brockman

From my experience, a barber hauler is used to bring the jib/genoa clew closer to the centerline when going to weather, resulting in being able to point higher. What you did was more like using a tweaker on a spinnaker sheet. When reaching with a genoa, you want your lead to go forward and outboard to the rail. You can attach a additional sheet as you did, or you can re-lead the lazy jib sheet to the rail forward of its normal lead position and under the life lines.

Squall
1986 Hull #231
Tall Rig/Fin Keel - Elliptical Rudder
M25XPB - Flexofold 2 Blade 15x10
Marina del Rey, California

Noah

Paul - my personal opinion, but I wouldn't attach any high-loaded line (barber haul, sheet, or particularly a jibe preventer) to the stanchion base.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

britinusa

Noah, I'm with you on that.

On Eximius, there are SS straps by the toe rail, I'm guessing they are for Preventer or Barber Hauler. I'm going to check them out in the morning.

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

KWKloeber

#4
Paul
[edited]

I've always thought of a BH as a means to re-angle the foresail from the position you can attain w/o it.  For instance, your sheet is on the inside track, but your apparent wind wants you to open up the angle.  You can't just ease the sheet -- there's no vang or traveler to keep tension where you want it and if you ease the sheet the clew will fly out.  So rig a BH to move the clew out to the toe rail.

Conversely, the same could be done w/ the car on the toe rail and apparent wind wanting you to point higher w/ jib angle than you can get with the care where it is.  Rig a BH on the centerline and bring the clew in, while not having to put excessive leech tension on with the sheet.  Just think of it as highly relocatable lead cars for your foresail.  You can use snatch blocks or low friction rings -- whatever works for the situation.  the BH can be rigged in two directions, moving the "jib car" in or out, and also can be hauling the "car" down (or easing it) using a twig to a hard point.

It's kinda similar to bringing the traveler hard to windward if you need to sail higher to sneak by to miss a jetty w/o tacking.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ed Shankle

Practical Sailor's Sept issue has an article on rigging a barber hauler and as another option, suggests using low friction rings.
Regards,
Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

britinusa

Thanks everyone!

I'm already putting the kit together for a twing that would allow moving the apparent position of the car fore / aft, I can see it as an all in one - BH and twing.

I'll modify my plans so that I can control the sheet point fore-aft-inboard - outboard (although inboard will be only as far as the inboard rail.)

Thanks.

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

KWKloeber

Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

britinusa

Thanks Ken,
my copy of Practical Sailor arrived today - how come I keep finding answers the next day!

That pic shows a great example.

Thanks.
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP