Starter Push-Button Replacement

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Bob K

I am getting ready to track down the cause of recent starting problems, where I push the start button and nothing happens.  (No solenoid click, but can see voltage drop on the panel meter when switch is depressed).   I want to replace the push-button starter switch, as it is original, and easy to do.   I suspect the problem is voltage drop in the start wire to the solenoid.  Will also replace the in-line fuse. (I already replaced the starter ground cable when this problem appeared one time last year). Will try to identify the culprit prior to making any changes. Since the problem is infrequent, I am sure it won't occur during my troubleshoot.  But I'll take voltage drop measurements anyway.  I have the M35 engine with wiring harness upgrade.

I am looking for recommendations for a good quality replacement switch.  I saw one on Catalina Direct website, but maybe there is a better one out there??

Thanks
Bob K
Prosit
1992 #1186
Northern Chesapeake Bay

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Bobg

Stu is right, same thing happened to me, it was the switch, actually all my gauges acted jerky all summer, one day I pushed the button and nothing happened, had to bypass the switch to start engine while on the hook, new switch 10 years ago, about 14 bucks at the time, problem solved, steady gauge readings too.
Bob Gatz, 1988 catalina 34, Hull#818, "Ghostrider" sail lake superior Apostle Islands

KWKloeber

Cole-Hersee is the go-to manufacturer.
Unlike the preheat push button the start circuit is low current. CH makes I think a sealed 20a and a metal 35a PB switch (off-momentary on.) - either is ok. Get the rubber weather cap for the metal one (you can buy the switch either way or buy the cap extra.) The other sealed switch the rubber cap is integral.  Defender carries CH.

Check for strong voltage out of the key switch also, a C30 guy just had the same issue and had both switches bad.

Note that may be a "start" as you may have other issues like V drop in the "S" circuit, solenoid issues, barrel fuse issues, etc.  Mire troubleshooting needed if the switch(es) don't solve it.  Harness "upgrade" is avliaded term and can mean different things, i.e. different levels of "fix."

What is a "starter ground cable"?  Pix?
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Bob K

Thanks for the info, all.  I will report back my findings, hopefully successful. 
Ken, the Cole Hersee 35A looks like a very good switch.  It has a gasket sealed case and comes with the much ballyhooed rubber cap.  At $15.99 from Defender, it is a great deal.  BTW, I misspoke when I said I replaced the starter ground cable.  I meant the negative battery cable (at bell housing).  :D
Bob K
Prosit
1992 #1186
Northern Chesapeake Bay

KWKloeber

Bob

The meg cable should be on a starter bolt, moved from the bell housing.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ron Hill

#6
Guys : The key to having a reliable starter switch is simple - get a rubber boot that covers and protects the switch!!!

Written up in the Mainsheet tech notes and numerous Message Board posts !!   :thumb:
Ron, Apache #788