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Messages - Stu Jackson

#8266
Mike S

ENERGY BUDGETS, BATTERY USE & RECHARGING DEAD BATTERIES

Mike V's story was very well put.  Was that heresy or hearsay?  I don't know. :roll:

But follow this logic:  Once you've got a good large house bank, and you've done all the wiring upgrades, and you've checked all your connections and you've got the monitoring system and you regularly check your distilled water levels, and you have a handle on everything, including your energy budget, and you either frivolously use or be miserly with your energy usage, what do you do next?

You learn about the steadily diminishing law of returns of how your engine driven alternator can replenish your batteries, regardless of whether it puts out 30 amps from the stock regulator, or 55 to 80 amps from a high powered new alternator with an external regulator.

We learned that this summer on our cruise (knew it already but saw it in action for the first time  :idea: ).

Page 46, Figure 2-13 of Calder's covers it well.  Start out with full house bank, in our case 315 amp hours, from charging at our friend's dock.  Spent two hours sailing, 20 nanoseconds motoring to our first anchorage.  Stayed there two nights, less than three days.  315 less say 60 times 3 = 180 = 135 ah left. (Using fridge and lights "frivolously").  Motored 6 hours the next day.  Input equals say 30 amps per hour, put back in 150.  150 + 135 = 285.  (We get a good 30 amps input from our stock alternator because we still have our AutoMac.)  Anchored out for three nights, turned off the fridge at night.  285 left less (3 x 30) = 195 left.  Motored four hours = 30 x 4 = 120 + 195 = back to 315.  On the hook for two more nights frivolously = 315 less 120 = 195.  Sailed for a day, little motoring.  195 - 60 = 135.

This could go on and on until we plugged in again, and without motoring for long periods of time, would steadily diminish the amount left in the house bank unless we turned off the fridge.

Conclusion, unless we plugged in or motored for a long time, which we CAN do on the Delta here, less and less is left in the house bank.  It's a fairly common occurrence, as long as you either do the math or have a Link monitor.

But we KNEW that going in and, so, could adjust for it.  If one wants to be totally self-sufficient, then solar (which we have but I didn't include above since it's just a small panel to offset the weekly discharge of the wet cell battery banks we have), or wind or both HAVE to be added, or a separate generator, or, as Captain. Ron says, "You just pull in and ask directions, Kitty" and sneak a little charge in while you're waiting!   :D

The other conclusion is what we're all learning, and I say it again:  there is simply no right way to do things electrically on our boats.  It all depends on how you want to or need use your boat.  Marina hopping, as mentioned above, will let you get away with a smaller house bank, although I still personally believe that a minimum of 400 ah in a house bank for those with refrigeration is the bare minimum to permit, as Mike V said, a frivolous weekend away with NO concerns about killing your batteries.  A larger bank also extends the life of your bank because you draw down a smaller percentage of the total capacity.

We have written, as all the Mikes and others of you know, lots about this subject.  And, it's just great that so many have read it - most, if not all of it!   :clap

Please also note that Jim's very happy with his batteryshack alternator.  They come with BOTH internal and external regulation.  Your boat, your choice.  (Now, where have we heard that before?   :shock:

Unfortunately, some of the direct links between subjects on electrical systems that I put into the earlier electrical system posts didn't transfer over from Infopop to this board, so it makes it hard to use some of the cross references that I previously posted on electrical systems.  Sorry about that, but the information is all still there, and based on this topic, looks like more's comin' our way.  Not a bad subject, and fun to discuss. 8)

RECHARGING DEAD BATTERIES

Mike S, while I was looking for that steadily diminishing law of returns in Calder, I came across the answer to your other question about recharging dead batteries.  I knew I'd seen it somewhere.

Page 47, second edition.  "Is There Life After Death?"

Recommends equalizing the batteries on first charge.  With your new Statpower True Charge Xantrex (or whatever they're calling them these days) 40, you should have an equalization setting.  I recommend you do that to bring your batteries back.  There's a whole page on the subject.  I've posted a reference link on your earlier post to get here.
#8267
Mike

I know you've done YOUR homework.   :D

You may be the only C34 with a Perkins.  IF you have a Motorola alternator, the Balmar's will fit with just the little shaving of the bracket IF your bracket is similar to the Universal alternator brackets.  I remember your picture episode awhile ago, but haven't looked it up to see.

Your other choice, given that outrageous $720 for the alternator and regulator, is to use Jim Moe's source for the alternator for a big $120, plus a regulator which should run around $250.  I bought Jim's recommended alternator and I also have a Max Charge ready to install, but have been busy with re-impregnating (not personally  :!: ) our mainsail at Sail Care, doing boom related fixes and haven't gotten around to it.  The alternator is a direct match physically to the Motorola, it's a rebuilt inside a Delco case.

I also have the specific reference to Jim's alternator source, and Paul Elissio posted it awhile back.  Seems that Jim wrote the article, gave a draft to Paul who posted it on the board.  Jim finished it with a bit of help from me in editing, and sent it to be published in Mainsheet as a feature Tech article.  The folks at Mainsheet declined.  Don't get me started... :roll:

I just emailed it to you directly.  In fact, if the bozos, whoops, folks at Mainsheet won't do it, then I'll ask Mark to do it on Projects.
#8268
Mike

Randy's right, it's the external regulator that gets the juice out of the alternator.  You'll find an incredible improvement from a stock alternator, which is, after all, just an automobile logic charging system because of its regulator settings.

Ron Hill went to a 7/16 inch belt, without changing pulleys.

If you find it's still too much, use the amp manager feature on the regulator to reduce the output a bit, like Steve Lyle did in one of his two weblog reports.
#8269
Main Message Board / Grohe faucet shower pullout
January 23, 2005, 07:50:24 PM
Mike's right, the Grohe shutoff DOESN'T shutoff completely, which is good.  I included that feature in my original post with the picture, reproduced above.  94.67835% shutoff is good enough for me, and it shouldn't break the hose, because it lets some water dribble through and doesn't build up pressure in the hose.

Ever buy a "less expensive" hose at a hardware store?  The minute you shutoff the hose, while the water is still running, the hose, somewhere in the middle and right below your grandma's dress, it breaks!

It's simple, ya gotta shutoff, a wand and a hose.

Da hose breaks, it leaks undaneeth, da wand wands, and da shutoff almost does.   :clap

'Nuff said?
#8270
Main Message Board / Charging Dead Batteries
January 23, 2005, 07:40:41 PM
A battery charger is a simple, albeit now more complicated, transformer.

Transformers make heat.

Heat needs to be dissipated.

Hiding it doesn't help.  Why put it sideways and hidden?  The wiring runs to and from that location are longer.

Under the nav station makes the most sense.

Mike, swap it out straight, as long as the wiring sizes are right.
#8271
Main Message Board / Sendure End Caps for HXs
January 23, 2005, 09:04:21 AM
Howard
#8272
Main Message Board / C-34 in FOX tv movie
January 22, 2005, 09:47:15 AM
Brad

So how do we get a video copy of the show?
#8273
Main Message Board / Cabintop Leaks
January 22, 2005, 09:41:56 AM
Here's some correspondence from Al Landry #13 over the course of the last week:

Stu,
I am having the same problem with water dripping down from the traveler hold-down nuts' access hole in the roof over the galley. I have removed the traveler & resealed; I have removed wood along hatch & resealed; it still leaks although no cracks are visible. It only leaks after it rains.  I am now thinking that I need to replace the Dorade assembly; I covered it with plastic for several weeks and it is beginning to dry out.
Al Landry, Lucky 13, #13

Al,
Have you tried a hose when it's not raining, any way to trace it? I haven't removed the wood. In my case it's the dorade area that's weeping, and everything else, from that point, is uphill except for the added traveler bolts. I still have to do that, which will require lifting the whole track, as you well know. I'm still working on it and if I find a culprit, Ill let everyone know on the board. If you do, please let us know. Heck, what else is UP there?????
We got our new dorades from Plastimo through Mari Safe. Best prices we've seen, almost 2/3 of WMP or BoatUS. I think it's www.marisafe.com. Give it a try. These models fit our holes, but require the removal of the OEM metal Vetus contraptions under the dorades, and the screen. If where you sail is buggy, you'll have to work out a new screen arrangement. I saw one recently where the skipper took a big screen and inserted into the mouth of the dorade itself, rather than in the hole.
Stu

Stu
My leak is a hair-line stress crack at the base of the traveler mount. I didn't realize a small crack would let water in that much; may have been too many gybes. Hopes this helps you find yours.
Thanks
Al Lucky
#13
#8274
Main Message Board / ST 50 Knotmeter Issues...
January 21, 2005, 11:45:16 AM
We're still back in the olden days of autopliots, without interfaced anything, and even use charts to navigate!!!  But I agree wholeheartedly with Mike L about working in front of the wheel - I single hand a lot also.

Our original A3000 autopilot had been installed on the starboard side on the vertical face of the angled area at the aft end of the cockpit.  Why? Don't know.

When I installed cockpit speakers, the compass, which is inside the old A3000 control head, went a bit zany from the proximity of the magnets in the starboard speaker.  I installed the speakers in the vertical under the helm seat.

We moved the control head up to the cockpit coaming, pretty much in line with the wheel.  Now I can easily operate the autopilot controls from both forward and aft of the wheel.  Most of the time I'm in front of the wheel.  I'd still have to get wet if it's raining if I was hunkered under the dodger, and it's not as good as a remote, but having the only autopilot control only aft of the wheel seems restricting at best.
#8275
Main Message Board / Steaming Light Replacement
January 20, 2005, 09:02:09 PM
Ron

Just about any chandlery and West Marine and BoatUS, who can be found on the web.  I would suggest you also try Defender.  The usually have the least cost for the same item.  You should start amassing catalogs, they're very handy and also good learning tools.  Try www.defender.com.  You can buy online, too.
#8276
Main Message Board / Steaming Light
January 19, 2005, 08:00:54 PM
Ron

You pretty much only have two choices, Aqua Signal and Forespar.  Catalina switched over the years.  Find out what you have and replace in kind to simplify the mounting.  I'll bet the ends of the old wiring may be pretty corroded by now, too.  I just replaced our bow light and had to cut (as little as I could) maybe 1/2 inch off the ends to find "clean" wire.  Use Boeshield or another equivalent product to reduce future corrosion on the wires and the screws of the housing of the new light.
#8277
Main Message Board / Brown Crud
January 19, 2005, 07:56:03 PM
Andrew

Thanks for the idea.  I've had an offline chat with Al Landry #13, and he has some, too.  The idea of heaving up the traveler track is not something I look forward to, but it seems one of the only explanations.  Thanks, I know I don't think I have any old holes, since the track is original and I upgraded with both the "enhanced" traveler bolt from the factory, and new cars without removing the track.  Maybe the old sealant's just getting too old.
#8278
Randy

I had our rigger install a rope to chain splice.  Now our Bruce comes up over the anchor roller, albeit by hand since we don't have a windlass, much more smoothly.  Lots has been written about rope to chain splices, but it sure beats the old shackle that used to get hung up, and with 1/2 line and either 1/4 or 3/8 or in between sized chain (I forget the size of chain), it's always a clean hoist.  The argument about the splice has always been about its strength.  We've had no problems and we check it, along with the chain to anchor connector, on a regular basis.  Getting rid of shackles is half the battle.
#8279
Main Message Board / Grohe Shutoff Valve Source
January 17, 2005, 08:45:27 PM
Roland,  our local distributor here in San Francisco is Cal Steam, noted by Grohe when I called them.  A friend in the plumbing business has an account with them and got it for me.  This won't help you on the east coast.  Follow Ron's advice.  You CAN obtain one if you work at it, and with your boat on the hard, you do have a wee bit'o'time.

I have NO idea why the picture didn't display.  Please get in touch with Phil Imhof, our webmaster.
#8280
Main Message Board / cockpit shower head
January 17, 2005, 08:41:59 PM
Roland

Depending on your boat, the maker of the shower head could be different from year to year.  I recommend that you obtain a catalog from West Marine and or BoatUS, plus Defender, they're in your neighborhood and have the best prices, and compare what you see in the catalogs to what you have on the boat.  Then find the matching model number and go from there.  Shower head handles are usually interchangeable because the threads could be the same from hose to hose.