Messages

Mark I boats had the same leaky issues at the port locker and lazarette.  The main website had an FAQ on this hundreds of years ago:  use weatherstripping.  You could use 3/8 inch foam from a hardware store, or go to an automotive store and get really good rubber stripping.

It's worked for us and may work for you, but I am not that familiar with the details of the rims of the lockers on your Mark II.

Jim, you're right if it's a water cooled model.  If it's air cooled it'll be helpful to have vents.

Roland

No matter where you install the unit, remember to consider ventilation.  Many early boats had the units installed under the forward portion of the starboard settee.  Many skippers had to add vents in the vertical face of the supporting fiberglass under the seat.  Jim's location is very good if you don't have a battery there, but would require a grille or louver of some kind.  Good luck,

Mike

FAQ or Projects.  It's in the middle of the main website home page, not the left side index.

After you're done with the mcirowave, TV, etc., try one of those darn automatic coffee makers that starts itself at O dark 30!

Ken

Try this:

http://archive.sailboatowners.com/archive/archresults.tpl?ssite=CO&fno=20&start=1&requiredfields=keyword%2Cyear&cart=1108363024395138&keyword=Ultimate+Sole&model=none&forum=none&pr=p%2Cr&_psamp=psamp&andor=ws&year=2003&year=2004&year=2005&srt=pdate

Hi to Carol.

[C34 Home Page]

To reach any of the web associates, just go the C34 Home Page.  Upper right or lower center of this board.

Scroll down, click on the name or issue (Mark Elkin, FAQs, etc.)

Easy as that.

It could also be that many new members aren't familiar with the main website.  Have a look, there's lots of information there, too, in addition to this searchable message board.  There's a separate search engine on the main website.

Daniel

Congratulations on the new swabbie.

The new crew member is going to get you working overtime to come up with creative search words.  Now, I guess you're at a loss for words

All the best,

Dan

I have the original two bow rollers that came with the boat.  The older boat's bow rollers we called and still call TOY BOW ROLLERS. They're small.  Ron was one of the first to document installing the larger roller.  The newer boats have one bigger legitimate bow roller.  Since I don't have a 35# anchor, I can still get away with the smaller original rollers.

To run a second anchor off, you really don't need to go through the rollers.  I installed a second bow cleat since the old boats only came with one in the center.  No reason you can't go from a cleat directly overboard.  Our C25 had no roller, so we just ran the anchor line overboard from the foredeck cleat.  If you're concerned with chafe, add rub strakes at the sides of the foredeck.  If your single roller is wide enough, you could run both rodes through it.

I would guess that folks with more difficult anchoring conditions would be better able to answer your questions.  We have the "luxury" here of 12 to 15 foot depths, almost no (or very few) opposed wind and current anchorages, and the wind is usually from one direction or calm, rarely changes overnight, and we don't have afternoon thunderstorms, etc.  It is not challenging, and I'm very good at it  

David

We have a Wilcox Crittenden Head Mate II.  One came with the boat when we bought her in 1998.  I've since first, serviced, and then replaced the entire pump assembly and valves, still have the same china seat.  It works just fine.  Others came with Jabsco or Groco.

Peggy Hall highly recommends the Raritan PHII as the "best."  While there is usually no "best" of anything, she's done her homework and written a book about heads which is very good.  One of her earlier articles is on our FAQ page:  http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/headodor.pdf

Redoing the head, if you go to a different model, requires investigation of not only the base (which is easy, there are only lag bolts into the deck, no problem), but more importantly, the hose connections and locations.  If your outlet black hose is OK, then it's probably not worth changing brands if you'd have to replace it.  OTOH, if you redo the hoses, it may be worth looking into changing the brand of head.

John

Good to hear from you.

I saw a Vetus in a C34 a number of years ago.  I've also looked into them in the WMP catalog, because the lips on our Catalina mufflers are subject to lots of stress.

The major issue I see with them is the size of the inlet and outlet ports.  Our hoses are 1 5/8 inch and I haven't seen that size on a Vetus.  As far as I know it worked on that C34, because the owner was happy with it.  I don't think back-pressure and water volume is such an issue, since the size indicates that it has pretty much the same volume.  Their choice of inlet and outlet locations are also a consideration. The support and base would also have to be considered and I don't remember how it was done on the one I saw.  I should have taken a picture of it, but it was before the digital age and I didn't carry a camera around like I usually do today.  

I haven't gone any further because I'm still reinforcing the lips on our original muffler!  The rest of it is working just fine.

Randy

You mentioned that you have to haul your Danforth anchor up through the pulpit.  We keep our regular Bruce on the port bow roller all the time, with a 22# Danforth inside the anchor locker with chain always attached.  I have the rode in the lazarette ready to shackle onto the Danforth.  We also have a high tensile Danforth in the anchor locker, with chain and separate rode aft.  My Danforth anchor holder is on the starboard side of the pulpit on the horizontal part.

When we use the Danforth, and when retrieving it, I don’t go through the pulpit.  Instead, I pull it up onto the starboard roller.  Then I lean out over the pulpit, or through it (depending on how my back feels!) and raise it up to fit onto the holder.  The shank of the anchor hangs down and it is ready to go again, with the chain fair led outside and through the roller.  I can tie off the shank to the pulpit base with bungee cord to keep it from flopping around.  An alternative would be to place the holder low on a pulpit stanchion (with the different angled holder because it's on a vertical tube, not the horizontal stanchion tube) and have the flukes down and the shank up, but either way, the anchor doesn’t have to be threaded through the pulpit.  In fact, when starting out, it's easier to lead the chain through the pulpit than the anchor, then connect the rode and splash the anchor from outside the pulpit.  Hope that’s clear.  Works if you have separate rode for first deployement, but still works when retrieving.

Kerk

Keep asking away, that's how we all got started.

You'll hear lots of opinions on anchors, and heavier is always better.  In addition to this forum, I recommend that you do your research on different anchors, and actually try yours out in places that you normally anchor, and back down really hard with your engine to see how it sets.  There are lots of anchoring books, spend some time in a marine store and browse through them.  www.catalinaowners.com and sailnet also have articles about anchors and anchoring.  Also, chat with other "locals" and see if they have any opinions, as I'm sure they will.  You can never have too many anchors on board.  All the best.

Gene

The primary winches on our '86 are Lewmar 46ST.  The cabintop winches are Lewmar 30ST.  Don't know if you assume the cabintop winches are the halyard winches, since some have installed their own halyard winches on the mast.  Both our cabintop winches are self tailing.

Roland,

It doesn't seem to be worth it.  We had two of our stanchions bent in a little mishap a few years ago.  One was the compound type with the vent, too.  A local stainless shop quoted $493, and Catalina Yachts (not Catalina Direct) sold them both to me for $153! (including the nuts, bolts and lock washers).   It's pretty hard to bend them back without breaking the tubes.  If you can get a good price, buy new ones.  It'll force you to wax the old ones because the new ones look so much better. The other advantages:  1) you get to re-bed two stanchions, and get practice for doing the next 8 or 12!  2) you get to learn about how your lifelines work

The chainplates come down underneath the deck and are connected to the hull behind the seat backs with one inch stainless rods.  There are double bolts at the bottom of them.  Seems to be no reason not to be able to connect them them there and then easily run the wiring down to the keel.

A SEARCH on lightning shows almost a dozen threads.

One of them is:  

http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1270&highlight=lightning

Reference is also made to the Tech Notes, which you can find online as a C34 member, or in your CD-ROM.

You could also try a search on bonding.