Messages

Roland:

Try this:  http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-beckson.html

It's also on your CD-ROM.

Depends on where the leak is coming from.  I removed and re-bedded our forward starboard in the V berth, used lots of silicone (West Marine) and it's been fine for six years.  You gets what you pays for usually, so Steve's right on the mark.  Besides, a tube will do one port-light.  Be VERY liberal with the seal between trim rings both inside and outside.  What ever seeps out you can always cut off with a knife.  I've left my silicone seepage around the edge of the inside trim ring showing inside, so I remember which port I've already redone.  

OTOH, I also just purchased my second set of Beckson gaskets (GK-512).  Many times the leak's from between the inside plastic and the frame.

The FAQ with Captain Al's wooden removal tool worked wonders.  Sounds like yours are out already.

Also see Steve Lyle's First Year Weblog on this MB about his port funnies.

Book value is BS and maybe only for other boats that don't hold their value as well as ours do.

I regularly peruse the local and national lists of for sale C34s, NOT the BUC.  If you do so, you'll see that the range of asking prices for 1986 boats goes from $49K to well over $58K.

It depends on where they are (further south usually has less "stuff" (i.e., heaters)), and how well they are kept.

During our search for "Aquavite," we found some real dogs, with high selling prices.

Takes all kinds to make a deal.

To also give you some "good vibes," go back to FAQs and reread "why we bought our C34s" and "what to look for when buying a C34."  

I know you read them, but read them again as a seller.  Then rethink the value of your boat and how you'd sell it to a prospective purchaser.  Some even say that this website, in some small way, increases the value of our boats.

Good luck,

Mark

My confusion.  John sent me a doc file copy of his article.  I've sent it to you so you can post it (and then my earlier comments will be correct - for a change ).  

Randy

Seems like you answered your own question.

As you had read all of the previous posts, you saw my recommendation.  I would do it now, while it's easy and you won't put it off.  Why not get the "mental insurance" knowing it's new.  Also check with Dave Davis about his stainless material choice (304 vs 316, I think).

We did our '86 rerig in 2003.  Long time.  Now I'm very comfortable.

Richard

Try this:

http://www.c34ia.org/mainsheet/pdf/11-99_Technotes.pdf

I knew it was there, but had trouble finding it with the main website's search engine, even under "propane."  I didn't do a search on "conversion."

That's why I continue to recommend that skippers COPY the tech notes index(es) and put them on their own  word processor , and use the word processor's FIND function (either F2 or CNTL-F).

That Index can be found here:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3096.0.html

Dan

John Gardner had his electrical design published in a recent Mainsheet Tech Tips.  Check the Tech Note Online, it was within the last two years.  Photos are included.  I also believe it was published on Projects, so check that out, too, the pictures are bigger and in color.

Jim

Instead of increasing the size of your cleats, why not just add your own loop of line to the mooring loop?  If you add a loop 1/2 inch line, and tie any one of many different good knots through the loop of the oversized mooring line, then put that 1/2 line over your cleat(s), you don't have to change the cleats.  If you're concerned about chafe if away from the boat for extended periods, use two additional loop lines through the mooring loop.  I remember they do this in the BVIs, with huge mooring lines big enough for the Titanic, with loops reasonably enough sized to fit over a recreational boat's cleats.

Sent to Mark today.

Mark's references in his post above are great, and summarize much of what we have been discussing over the past few years about our electrical systems.  

Look for Jim's article on Projects soon.  Also, Al Watson posted a simplified wiring diagram on the Projects page a few years ago.

Happy Electrons to you all  

Dan

This is a fun one!

It combines a solution with the problem in the same answer.

The alternators are (exactly/unfortunately) the same.

Shouldn't be a problem, unless someone has specific experience.

Mike

Stan O'Hoppe recently purchased a good sized gear puller to get his wheel off the spindle.

Try him at sogohop2@earthlink.net (Stan O'Hoppe).

I understand.  Only reservation I have is the use of "dedicated."  Why not just make the entire house bank bigger?

Reference to Calder's  recommendation, that I've posted a few times, of not dedicating banks, but getting longer battery life out of larger banks is the ninth post down at

http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=973&highlight=calder&sid=e4b2a5aab4eaef001ad0db0a309a40e8

Keep the holding tank, you may need it.  

Mike

I don't recall this coming up before.

Peggie Hall highly recommends Ronco tanks.  I'd try their website and see what they have available for tanks before using a bladder tank, which has to be secured.  They also do custom tanks.

Don't understand the reason for the change, since the battery box handles four golf carts so perfectly.

[GREAT]

GREAT

Now, think about how much more fun it would have been if you'd introduced the new yellow ground wiring!~

Super, enjoy.  Yes, time to get back in that danged hammock!!!

Try this:

Jim

Most of us "oldies" with Mark I boats are just so happy to have one bow cleat that we really don't care what size it, or our docklines, are!  

If you actually have a boat that came out of the factory with more than one centered bow cleat, consider yourself lucky.  Must be a Mark II.

Some of those of us with older boats have installed one or two additional bow cleats in addition to the one that the factory was kind to have provided for us.

My experience is that many folks seem to "oversize" their docklines to 5/8 inch, which, I think, is overkill, with the resultant "cleat's too small."

From experience and research on line strength, we use 1/2 inch lines, for docklines, spring lines and other docking and mooring situations.  In some cases, I've used our reel of 200 feet of 3/8 line for "loo....ong" line use.

So, if you're using 5/8 lines, yes, the cleat's'll seem small.  Try 1/2 inch line, it'll work.

If you're already using 1/2" line and you still think the cleats are too small, either the factory gave you the Catalina 22 cleats or we both need new glasses. :)