Messages

Mark

Re: Serious Cranking - you're right, turning over one of our engines isn't a big deal.  There's no reason not to be able to use a deep cycle battery for the intermittent and short duration start needs.  While we on Aquavite have a large house bank and a separate start battery, I often use the house bank to start, because the start battery is essentially there for when we're out on the hook for an extended period and have depleted the house bank, and so the start bank is there for a "ready reserve" which was its intended purpose to begin with.

If you look back at the electrical and battery discussions on this message  board, you'll note that Dave Davis once asked about his (4) 6V golf cart battery setup, and whether having 2 house banks of deep cycles was OK for "switching" house loads daily and for starting.  The answer is that a starting (technology) battery isn't used at all if you have a double house bank setup.  In fact, this is exactly how Catalina is still making C34 electrical systems, with the two 8D batteries.  Many new owners simply tie those two together for a larger house bank, and then add a new start battery, or they keep them that way and switch off daily.  Start battery technology IS used when you have a larger house bank and a separate starting bank, where the start battery is used JUST for that purpose, as noted above.  So, the choice still is: 1) "split" banks, either used for house and start; or 2) dedicated house bank and separate start bank.

Of course, this choice also depends on your energy budget, and how you use your boat.  If a single battery suffices for your estimated "away from re-charging source," then you're fine.  I still believe that a single battery, even an 8D, is really pushing it for even a daily sail if you have and use refrigeration, based on a simple energy budget: you end up drawing down the battery excessively, when having a larger house bank will reduce the draw-down and extend the life of the batteries.  All this has been previously discussed here on this board.

I also discourage using the ALL position to start the engine, since either bank should be capable of doing so.  If it is NOT, you need to consider why not and find out how to fix it.

I believe that there is adequate information not only on "electrical" and "batteries" here on the MB, and the recently posted electrical systems information in the main website "Projects" section, for all of us to be able to understand and design their own systems, always remembering that there is no ONE way to do it "right," because it all depends on how you use, or intend to, use your boat.

Jim,

The radiator is traditionally installed at the masthead, with only minor modifications needed to the masthead crane.  It's very similar to installing a halyard wrapstop or a spinnaker crane.  The options available include stainless steel or titanium.  The piping is installed inside the wiring conduit in the mast to avoid mast slap when at anchor.  The pump is usually installed under the starboard seat in the saloon, although many people have already installed batteries in that location, so you may have to consider an alternate location, like in front of the starboard water tank.  The reason for the masthead location for the radiator is to avoid having to haul up the radar reflector every time it gets foggy.  Optional locations for the radiator are in the anchor locker or the head.  The tractor seat [optional equipment, extra price] is usually installed just in front of the binnacle, facing aft, so that the operator can clearly observe the harvesting equipment [also optional] installed on the stern mounts.  Mark II owners also need the optional bracket mounting system for the harvesting equipment due to the open transom (note: open transom mounting steps must be removed).

One thing to consider if it comes DOWN easily are the extra blocks and friction used to get it up, like the aforementioned turning blocks and deck organizers.

I noted the used of the halyard winch to get the jib up.  In lieu of using a winch, why not just raise it from the port side of the mast?  With our double line mainsail reefing lines and a cunningham, the port side stoppers, deck organizers and fairleads are all used up anyway.  Also, since we don't drop our jib often, it appears that there may be no need to use the port side to bring the jib halyard aft.  After all, even if it's run aft, what's it doing all year?

We just cleat off the jib halyard at the base of the mast on a cleat.

Try raising the jib from the mast and see if that helps, then you may reduce your concerns about the masthead sheave.  If the friction disappears significantly, at least what blocks that are left you'll be able to get to.

Ron

also check this out:

http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2161

The pickup screen removal is discussed in the May 1996 and May 1998 issues of TECH NOTES.

Arnold

Three possibilities

1.  the fan isn't working - easily and inexpensively replaceable

2.  the module is "having troubles" - either needs a more qualified mechanic than you seem to have or it (and he) needs to be replaced -  replacement electronic modules aren't cheap, but I don't think that's your problem.

3.  wiring connections are loose somewhere - that's what I'd check first, and it's also the least expensive.  If the unit wasn't popping breakers, I don't understand why your guy recommended changing it (it should be 10A, not 15A anyway - see earlier Mainsheet articles).  Your "reefer mechanic" leaves a lot to be desired if he charged you for something not physically on the unit that didn't even fix the problem.

Check the wiring connections at the unit.  They may look good, but take them off, maybe cut back another inch of insulation for new clean wiring.  Remove and clean the fuse on the unit, consider replacing it.  Check the voltage at the unit.  Is it 12?  If it's not, but is still more than 0, you need to check the entire wiring run.  Check the wiring at the panel, too.  And, last, but not least, check the ground, not only the black wire for your AB unit, but the boat's system ground on the engine.

Others will no doubt chime in to check your refrigerant charge, but that doesn't seem to be a symptom in your case.

As the owner of a new good old boat, many of us recommend that you review the previous almost 20 years of information on the main website soon, if you haven't already.  Much of that material was gathered during the first ten years of the production runs and includes invaluable information you WILL want and NEED to know about your boat.

On our 1986, we get 3,000 in neutral, 2,700 in forward pushed to the limit and cruise at 2,100 at 6 kts with a clean bottom.  The tach runs off the alternator.

The FAQ section is a good place to start:  http://http://www.c34ia.org/faq-pages/faq.html

The FAQ section on this website is NOT about how to use the website, it's about how to use the boat!  

Also, let us get to know you by name, see: http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2023&highlight=identification

Also, when you join as a member of the C34IA, you will receive a FREE CD-ROM with ALL of the Tech Tips AND the entire original website Projects and FAQs (up to 2001) as well as access to the Tech Notes Online.  Almost all of this material is already available to you right here.  Many of us with PO boats did a lot of reading here on the searchable Message Board and the main website, and many of us have actually printed out the entire set of Tech Tips.  We've found that it saves many hours of hard on-the-boat work since others have usually experienced the issues you will be facing.  That's why we keep all this stuff around.  

There's always something new to learn and share and we're here for that, too.

Welcome aboard,

Flying Spray

As the owner of a new good old boat, many of us recommend that you review the previous almost 20 years of information on the main website soon, if you haven't already.  Much of that material was gathered during the first ten years of the production runs and includes invaluable information you WILL want and NEED to know about your boat.

The FAQ section has this:  http://www.c34ia.org/faq-pages/faq-port-list.html

Also, let us get to know you by name, see: http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2023&highlight=identification

Welcome aboard,

Gary

Ted's idea of a fuel pump shutoff has great merit.  If you do a search on +fuel+pump you find lots of threads, one of which is a long discussion by Ron Hill on fuel siphoning from a tank more than half full.  This is simply because the tank is higher than the engine.  Our fuel pump went south once, and the engine continued to run.  I replaced it with a spare fuel pump we had on board.  I intend to buy another replacement pump.  See:  http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1328&highlight=fuel+pump for the model #.  It's a good thing to have.  Doesn't take up much space, either.  I rarely let the tank get less than half full, not because of that, but because of condensation.  We have nights that are usually 20 to 30 degrees cooler than daytime temperatures.

Rick

Thanks for the boost!

Buy Nigel Calder's Boatowner's Manual for Mech and Elec. Systems.  It's the best $50 you can spend on your boat.

Also read the C34IA Projects page with two new electrical issues included - right up your alley.  Just clikc on C34 Home above, go to Projects and read the electrical part I and Part 2 stories.

Try: http://www.c34ia.org/faq-pages/faq-water-heater.html

This is one take on the subject, but what you'll continue to find is that many of the questions may have already been covered on the FAQ section of the main C34 website.  Between that, Projects and the search engine here on the message board, there's lots of information.

Jeff, with your older boat (#219), I would urge you to read the FAQs completely.  The reason is that those were the first questions asked when the boats were first built, and are a tremendous source of information for those of you (us ) with "good old boats."

Any heat exchanger type of process takes some time to work, so the hot water heater is NOT instantaneous.  BTW, the electric heater side will do the trick in about 15 minutes.  We turn ours on, then make sure it's off after 5 minutes, or else the water becomes dangerously scalding.

David

Congratulations on your brand new boat.  As a new owner, Catalina provides you with your first year C34IA membership, which your dealer may have neglected to tell you about.

Given Ken's story, check your fuel filter, check to see if the electric fuel pump is plumbed in after the fuel filter, and make sure you keep your fuel tank full and treated with biocide and water 'zorb.  Do searches on fuel and filters on this site, check the main C34 website and read the FAQs, and enjoy your first season.

Welcome aboard.  Try the "Manuals" section on the main website.

Kyle

All the cleats are simply through-bolted.  That means that they'll handle loads in any direction.  There are no directional issues involved (other than straight up!).

Rick

Print out the manual and just use it.  The boats don't change the way cars do.  Document whatever you find that has changed by marking up your manual, just the way the rest of us do.  It's pretty generic and you'll want to be careful about noticing & noting changes the PO made to your boat.  Please add your hull # to your signature, and please join the IA and your local fleet.