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Messages - Stu Jackson

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Main Message Board / How About...
« on: August 06, 2002, 07:29:38 AM »
...getting a few friends to help?
 I know singlehanding can be great fun, and sometimes when it comes to boat work, that seems to be all that does happen.
 It just occurred to me:  Ron suggested that you raise the muffler 3 to 4 inches to avoid all that wonderful muffler gop doing things you don't want it to do when you replace the petcock.
 Is there any chance you could get a few cheerful, helpful comrades to occupy your cockpit and helmsman's seat to lower the stern of the boat while you do that?  You could also get 'em to bring the anchors back aft with them for some additional weight.
 The added advantage to them:  they could pretend to go fishing while you're diving and you could be the "Big One That Got Away!"

Main Message Board / It's BAAAACK
« on: August 03, 2002, 11:13:55 PM »
tbone's website is revived.
 Please give it a try (for you desktop folks).
 Please refer to the link noted above.
 Happy sine waves to you all...

Main Message Board / tbone Lives!!
« on: July 22, 2002, 09:39:52 AM »
the link I posted recently is still down, but it was because their "trusty" server died.  They're getting a new one, so it should be up soon.
 It's not as nifty as the handhelds you are discussing, but plenty enough, for the right price, for those of you doing anything requiring tides and currents with a wealth of datapoints.

Main Message Board / Site Down
« on: July 15, 2002, 09:50:30 AM »
The site I referenced just above, seems to be down.
 I'll do some cross checking and let you know.

Main Message Board / For the Rest Of You...
« on: July 14, 2002, 10:30:36 AM »
...without Palm PCs, here's a link to a very good tide and current program for PCs and laptops.

Main Message Board / Location, Location, Location
« on: August 03, 2002, 06:27:40 PM »
Sounds like a real estate deal!  ...and it really is!
 We have four batteries:  two in the standard location and two forward under the forward dinette seat just behind the bulkhead to the V berth.  The forward ones have a small plywood base under them.
 One of the two in the standard location is the starting battery, the other three are the house  bank.
 Ours is a Mark I, so the water heater location doesn't work that way for our Good Old Boats.

Main Message Board / Counter Top
« on: July 29, 2002, 08:49:41 AM »
 Counter top removal and replacement can be found in Projects on the C34 website.  Scroll down about halfway, and click.

Main Message Board / Sheetstoppers for Mainsheets
« on: July 29, 2002, 11:39:03 AM »
Barry -
 Dave's right.  If you want to read a little bit longer discourse on this, use the message board search engine (upper right above), and type in "sheetstopper".
 Read my May 10, 2001 description of what Dave described in more detail.

Main Message Board / Expectations...
« on: July 29, 2002, 08:52:37 AM »
...can be misleading.
 Some of the deck gear has backing plates that have been encased in the fiberglass core of the deck, with holes tapped for machine screws.
 Others have either been added by previous owners with thru bolts, or factory installed that way.
 The easiest thing to do is simply UNDO what is there and find out what it is you have.

Main Message Board / Cheek Blocks
« on: July 29, 2002, 11:45:11 AM »
 We have them on the outside of the coaming on our '86 Mark I.  They're mounted on teak blocks to get them off the coaming enough for a fairlead back to the winches.  
 We also have two fairlead standup blocks on the inner (and our only) tracks.  The aft standup blocks are about the place where the shorepower inlet is located.  They work great, of course, the jib sheets need to be a bit longer than the standard spec'ed length to get back there and then forward to the winch.
 A friend with a newer Mark II just purchased double cheek blocks with stopppers in them from Garhauer, and has them flat on the deck.  This is because the hull and deck are configured differently between the Mark IIs and the older boats.  Where on a Mark II is there any vertical surface to even consider mounting one?  He's very happy with his purchase from Garhauer, and he loved the competitive and winning price.

Main Message Board / Screw Loose
« on: July 22, 2002, 09:50:06 AM »
 The fill hose is in the aft end of the tank.  The pickup is in the forward part of the tank.  There are baffles between them.  Doesn't appear to be a big problem.
 As far as the deck fills are concerned, you may be aware that there has been a lot written about them (all four of them).  I suggest that you forget trying to use the little chains.  This has caused lots of onwers grief by having the chains fail and the caps fall overboard.  Just unscrew the caps, put them down in a safe place, do your thing, and screw 'em back on.

Main Message Board / CNG Tank
« on: July 22, 2002, 03:23:02 PM »
My experience is that it is linear, engineering-eese for straight line.  We've never had reason to try to "calibrate" it, because we have a backup tank on board at all times.  The backup tank is located, well padded, in the forward salon port settee base, forward of the holding tank.  A hole was drilled to allow the knob to slide through into the lowest section of the port drawers and lowest swinging door in the V berth.  Just the other day a friend ran out of CNG, thought he was OK until he tapped on his gage.  He's got my spare now.

Main Message Board / Why?
« on: July 22, 2002, 10:15:45 AM »
Joe & Anne
 Why would you want to change the position of the switch to begin with?
 If you have a starting battery and a house bank and start the engine with the starting battery, unless you have a combiner, only the start battery gets charged from the alternator.  So why not do what Ron Hill suggested and start with "all" to charge both?  Or start the engine with the house bank, charge that up while motoring, since the start battery can be used in the case your house bank is flat?  
 The amount of amp hours drawn when using the start battery is so small that it almost never needs to be recharged.  If your house bank is large enough for your uses, you should always have enough power to use it to start the engine, and so have the start battery as a backup.
 I recommend that you buy Nigel Calder's Boatowners Manual.  There is an incredible amount of information there, and it's up to you, not just the switch, as to how you want to set up your electrical system.

Main Message Board / Thanks
« on: July 21, 2002, 08:55:28 PM »
 Thanks for the update and the resolution.  Much appreciated.  There is ALWAYS something to learn.

Main Message Board / Amp Crittters
« on: May 23, 2002, 08:58:15 AM »
 Having seen no responses to your post, I invoked the old standby: go to the source.  A number of our members are very electrically oriented, but are not active on this Message Board.  
 Try this:
 There is a wire from the stock alternator which goes to the ignition switch and provides the voltage reference for the internal regulator.  The other small wire coming from the alternator goes to the tachometer and provides a variable frequency ac to determine engine speed.   If the wire that goes to the ignition switch is left connected to the battery (not through the ignition switch) and the engine is stopped, there will be around an amp drain at all times.  Of course, the only way that could be a problem is if someone moved that wire from the switched terminal of the ignition switch to the battery side - I've seen it happen more than once.  Opening the wire at the alternator with the ignition switch off should tell the tale on
 that.  I think the tachometer wire is orange and the wire to the ignition switch is red but it's been some years since I changed from the stock
 alternators to externally regulated alternators with "smart" regulators so I'm not sure.
 A single wire, grounded system is used for the engine electricals on all Catalinas and, for that matter, virtually all  boats except for a few
 European makes.  He doesn't need an isolated ground system to eliminate battery leakage current and its only advantage would be to avoid
 electrolysis.  From the readings he is getting, it appears that the alternator is the most likely culprit and I would think that any shop should be able to determine if there were a leaky diode in either the main bridge or secondary bridge which feeds the internal regulator.
 Many thanks to our electrical guru.
 In addition:  you can check the wiring color coding on the C34 website and finding "Wiring Harness Upgrade," which has the original re-wiring diagrams posted, with the wire colors identified.  Most likely in FAQs.

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