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8056

Main Message Board / Different Battery Types

« on: August 12, 2001, 08:26:33 PM »

Don't mix types of batteries because gels and wet cells require different charging rates.  This is from the West Marine Advisor, and is basic to batteries:  (http://www.westmarine.com)
 
 1) Gel batteries charge at different voltages than flooded-type and AGM batteries, and 2) the voltages stated are temperature-dependent. This makes it difficult to recommend precise charging voltages, since they vary according to the temperature of the battery. Most of us generally operate our boats in temperatures between 50°F and 90°F, and the values used in our Advisors reflect that. Higher temperatures require lower voltages, and lower temperatures require higher voltages. Note: In the following section, we define the capacity of the battery bank (in amp-hours) as C.
 
 The "Ideal Charge Curve"
 Rick Proctor, founder of Cruising Equipment Co., is one of the leading innovators in the field of marine electrical systems. He coined the term "Ideal Charge Curve" to describe the best way to restore energy to your batteries. Here's how each phase of the process works:
 
 Bulk Phase: Charge at a rate up to 20%-40% of C to a voltage of about 14.4 volts (gel: 14.1V).

8057

Main Message Board / Turnbuckle Tension Update

« on: August 05, 2001, 09:50:54 PM »

Folks,
 
 Like everything else in boating, it sometimes takes a bit longer, but here's the update:
 
 My last post mentioned that I'd report back to you on the results of the tightening of the turnbuckle.
 
 Cory said, "Why just figure you have to tighten it, maybe it should be looser.  You guys always tighten things, and then they break!"  Good thought.
 
 When next hard on the wind, I tried loosening the turnbuckle.  Same noise, maybe even worse.
 
 Good news, the rigger had left the cotter pins out of the shafts.  "Maybe we're onto something here," I thought, "Hmm, they may really need an adjustment, so that's why they left the cotter pins out for me to put in when I'm "done" tuning the rig."
 
 Still on the wind, I tightened.
 
 Dagnabbit, no change.  Enough of that for this particular day.  Nice sail, though.
 
 So, as another excuse to go sailing again, I explained that I still had to go sailing again, to finally figure out the right turnbuckle tension.  Beats changing the oil.
 
 Of course, by this time I had the new roller furling gear installed and was working on THAT system's tension, too.
 
 Good news: I was able to figure out the differences in the "above decks" vs. the "below  decks" tensioning that I had to accomplish.  One was all upstairs, the other was down below, with a noise that sounded from all over, like it was coming from a series of broaching whales, some of whom sounded like they were able to fly.
 
 Next time out was a beautiful day, with our new flat cut 85% jib (yes, you folks who wish for wind should move here to San Francisco, we have plenty to spare) and a reefed main, Aquavite and I sailed up past Alcatraz and towards Sausalito into a building early afternoon breeze.
 
 CRACK
 
 Get wrench out and tighten turnbuckle.
 
 CRACK
 
 Tighten some more.
 
 crack
 
 One half a turn more.
 
 c   r   a   c  k
 
 Quarter turn more.
 
 
 Blessed s i l e n c e.
 
 Of course, this was just too easy, so I went up and danced on the cabintop, jumped down from the mast step, swung off the rigid vang and generally made a fool of myself pounding on the cabintop while no one was watching (they were too busy avoiding broaches on a reach in 25 to 30 knot winds).
 
 I tacked, again and again.  The noise never came back.
 
 I tried sailing downwind - no "adjustment" noises.
 
 Gybed, tacked, motored, sailed - every position to torque the bloody thing, and it was soooo  
 q u i e t.
 
 I actually looked UNDER from below to make sure the wedges hadn't popped overboard.  Still there.
 
 I did my usual docking (we have an "upwind" berth in our marina:  they call it upwind because the marina's head is in a certain downwind direction, and their definition of upwind has NOTHING whatsoever to do with the prevailing westerly wind which is abeam from starboard), so I put some more "gee, I sure am glad I learned that trick that  WD40 gets off hull black marks" black marks on the portside, tied and tidied her up, thankful that we'd solved the problem, and had had a wonderful sail.  
 
 Locked the boat, remebered the recycling material, and headed up the dock for the car and home.
 
 As I reached the top of the gangplank, I turned and looked back with a smile of accomplishment for a job that was successful and required at least two trips to the boat, and sailing her to boot.
 
 I smiled and sighed.
 
 And so did she:  c    r    a    c    k
 
 (More like just a little creak, really, and hard to describe while typing, but significant enough to know that she knew that I knew that she knew, etc.)
 
 One last time for old time's sake, we both thought.
 
 I think we've got the new roller furling tensioned properly, but we'll have to go out again to check it out.
 
 Stu

8058

Main Message Board / Turnbuckle

« on: July 27, 2001, 12:26:01 PM »

Re:  question of how tight.
 
 We just had new standing rigging installed, and the mast was pulled.  We have been out sailing a few times since, and have heard a sharp, intermittent "cracking" noise coming from what I've been able to track down from the mast partner (where the mast goes through the deck).  
 
 I originally thought it was only the new wood spacers which were getting "used to their new homes."
 
 After reading this thread, it occurs to me that perhaps the mast turnbuckle down below is not tight enough, because perhaps the cabintop is flexing, since the noise only occurs when we're close hauled.
 
 I'll try tightening it up a bit and let you all know what happens.
 
 Stu

8059

Main Message Board / CNG

« on: July 30, 2001, 12:13:49 PM »

We have a backup CNG tank, too, in the same place!  There's a chandlery just next door to our marina that sells the bottles, $15.16 including tax.  No problem gtting it here in San Francisco (east bay).

8060

Main Message Board / Alchohol Stoves

« on: July 20, 2001, 05:59:13 PM »

Paul,
 
 Try this from the Projects page reference:
 
 http://kindred-spirit.net/upgrades/stove-micro.html

8061

Main Message Board / Screens

« on: July 28, 2001, 06:22:25 PM »

Glen
 
 Based on your #1078 hull you most likely have Lewmar portlights.
 
 I suggest you check Lewmar's website (most likely www.lewmar.com) or any marine catalog (West Marine, BoatUS, Defender, etc.)
 
 While our older boat (1986) has the older Beckson ports (like the ones still installed in your aft cabin), you should be able to find a source and price for them.
 
 Catalina was no help because they build the boats with "components" and port screens are easy to find directly from the OEM vendors.
 
 Best regards, enjoy your C34.

8062

Main Message Board / It's AC vs DC

« on: July 13, 2001, 07:11:34 PM »

Peter
 
 The refrigeration is run on DC power.  This assumes that you have the "standard" Adler Barbour (AB) unit.  You will need to confirm this, because some other units, like NorCold run on both AC and DC.
 
 If it's AB it ONLY runs on DC and can only run from the batteries.
 
 Your inverter makes AC power FROM the DC batteries.  IF, (this is another "you'll need to confirm this to us), IF your inverter is a combination inverter and charger, when plugged into shorepower you are charging your batteries.
 
 What is the size of your inverter, the size of your charger, or the size of your combination inverter charger?
 
 The inverter part is always watts (1,000, 1,500, 2,000, etc.) and the charger part is always in amps (20 amps, 50 amps, 75 amps, etc.)
 
 Since your refrigerator will only draw 5 amps maximum, and your charger, whether it be 20 amps or 75 or more amps, is putting in way more than your fridge is taking out, there is no problem.
 
 The comments about batteries losing water has more to do with bad charging from old ferro resonant chargers, the newer chargers just will not fry batteries.  Again, not to worry. Always good however to check your batteries.  If you have wet cells, do check the water level (remember, distilled only - no beer, gin, vodka or regular wa wa).  If you have gells, nothing to check.
 
 What you need to do is begin to understand the difference between the AC side and the DC side of your electrical system(s).
 
 John Meyer wrote: "I've been in touch with Adler Barbour and found they have the components necessary to wire a bypass of the batteries when under shore power. I'm not an electricity guy but the necessary components seem to be a small transformer to go from 110 to 12 volt and some diodes to keep the current flow in one direction so that you don't mechanically need to tell the refrigeration system where it's current is coming from. As of now I have not added this system."
 
 
 I recommend NOT doing this UNTIL you have completely understood what's going on ON YOUR BOAT.  John and I have corresponded about this offline, and he leaves his fridge on for different reasons, in answer to my question about why bother to do that.
 
 I do not understand why anyone (other than John who has a GREAT reason - find out directly from him) would leave their fridge on when they are not aboard.
 
 Your fridge will NOT work better if it is on all the time.  That is a bunch of malarkey.  The fridge uses a refrierant gas (R-22 or HC-134) (like the old freon).  The more it runs, the more it will eventually (over a LONG time) use up the refrigrant.  This is one case where my motto "if it's mechanical use it or lose it" DOES NOT APPLY.  It just simply AIN'T a Sears refrigerator.
 
 Any questions, plet me know.
 
 Best regards,
 
 Stu
 
 PS - Having FUN yet???? :cool:

8063

Main Message Board / The Garage

« on: July 04, 2001, 11:47:49 AM »

Brian
 
 The C34 and C36 are somewhat different in the aft berth.  Yes, there are folks who actually use the V berth to sleep.  My crew still can't figure how they get in and out of the berth at night if required, as compared to the aft cabin, although she does get the forward position.  Many folks use the aft cabin as a garage to store stuff and sleep up forward.  
 
 There is no "right" place to sleep: your boat, your choice.
 
 While I have been somewhat successful in "hiding" most boat related stuff, we tend to work hard to keep both of the berths clear.  We sleep in the aft cabin because that's one of the main reasons why we bought the boat: it's big, roomy, comfortable, and closer to the waterline. Our son, when he comes with us, uses the V berth as his "room" and we have a TV/VCR combo on the top of the starboard locker, which we converted from a hanging locker to one with shelves, much better use of the space.  
 
 We had a C25 for 11 years before Aquavite.  The head knocker does happen occasionally, with or without a cap!  But leg room and head room is superb.  The two cabin reading lights are well located, and it's very comfortable.  With the two portlights closed, but not shut completely, we can even sleep in past dawn because there's not a whole lot of light, which is great! Record was 10 a.m.
 
 The aft cabin is also great for access to the stuffing box.
 
 One other thing not mentioned so far:  if you keep your full sized salon table (without cutting it down to cocktail table size), the salon area is huge if you drop the table and put the insert in.  We put the TV on the nav station and "hung out" in the lap of luxury.  It was so great once that we just stayed there all night!

8064

Main Message Board / Underneath

« on: June 27, 2001, 11:29:11 PM »

Ken & Vicki
 
 Whew, that's a tough one.  Question:  isn't it GOOD to need to go swimming in the Chesapeake in July?  I had been led to believe that the "critters" don't come in until August.
 
 I know I didn't enjoy untangling my prop from an errant mooring line in December 1998 in San Francisco Bay, but I guess the water temperature here is so consistent all year round (57 degrees) that December wasn't too far different than July.
 
 A hacksaw might do it.  A chisel and a hammer would help.
 
 Seriously though, do you have a diver check your boat's bottom regularly?  Once every three months is what we do here, and it gets us by, with our boats in the water year round, for two years before regular haulouts for bottom refinishing (and other things like standing rigging, thru hull replacements and the like).
 
 Actually, we almost let our boats sink until we just darn near have to have them hauled, needed or not.  It also avoids the dreaded "inspection of the hull" time, so we don't have to worry about whether or not we have the blisters, because since they're below the waterline, we almost never get to see them.
 
 Part of the issue is the non-use of the boat, it simply grows stuff when not moving.  Wish I got to use mine more often, too.
 
 Other part is it may not be only just your prop, but the entire hull (see above).
 
 One man's thought:  Go look yourself, get wet, and enjoy the warm water.  While you're at it, check the thru hull to the raw water cooling to make sure it's clear.  The reduction in rpm's is unusual.
 
 Stu

8065

Main Message Board / Teak treads

« on: July 04, 2001, 11:53:13 AM »

I tried a few years ago to order teak treads from BOAT/US, since they had disappeared from the West Marine catalog.  BOAT/US said they aren't made anymore, which leads me to believe you may need to make your own.
 
 If anyone knows of a source for "premade" teak treads, please let me know.
 
 I also bought the Johnson marine "half steps" in plastic (ugly brown, yech!)  but haven't installed them, since we haven't been using the boat much for swimming recently.  
 
 I did get a one step ladder extender, which we did use successfully last year.  It pops on and off easily, and made boarding a lot easier since it puts a rung below the waterline.

8066

Main Message Board / Reefer shut off valve

« on: June 27, 2001, 10:26:49 AM »

Fulvio
 
 If you haven't already, I suggest you check out the Projects section on the website, Ice Box & Galley Drain.  I contributed a shutoff valve article that addresses your question.  It's only one of a number of ways to do this but it works for us.
 
 Stu

8067

Main Message Board / Polar Chart & Website Search Engine

« on: May 18, 2001, 07:40:34 AM »

Gary,
 
 One of the things that makes the C34 Website so valuable is that there is a great SEARCH engine built right in.
 
 Using that gives you the polar chart right off the bat.
 
 I encourage all Message Board users to utilize the search engine to research their questions in addition to the Message Board.
 
 Best regards, Stu

8068

Main Message Board / Windlass

« on: June 05, 2001, 09:41:42 AM »

Peter
 
 HERE'S SOME CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE OLD MAILING LIST.  SUGGEST YOU GET IN TOUCH WITH THE AUTHORS DIRECTLY AND SEE IF THEY CAN ADD ANYTHING IF YOU HAVE FURTHER QUESTIONS.
 
 Best regards, Stu
 
 *******************************************
 
 Subj:  RE: [C34] Securing Anchor Rode
 Date:  1/11/2001 7:42:54 AM Pacific Standard Time
 From:    rpalaia@cpcus.jnj.com (Palaia, Rocco [CPCUS])
 Sender:    owner-c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us
 Reply-to:    c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us
 To:    c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us ('c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us')
 
 
 Charlie,
 I asked about that.  They said all drums start out un-plated.  Then they chrome plate them.  So basically, it's the same drum in all respects.  Don't be afraid to buff the chrome off.  My friend (works in metalurgy R&D) said the chrome was so thin it just came right off.  Maxwell said I could do it myself, but not knowing what it would entail, and since I know someone who works with metals, I asked him to do it.  If you are not comfortable doing it, find a local Tool & Die shop, I'm sure they could do it for you.  Or maybe an autoparts store with an inhouse machine shop (resurface rotors, etc), maybe they could help.  One thing Maxwell told me was that over time (years of use) a few dings could develop on the drum.  But they said if it ever does, just tap them smooth with a hammer.  The alternative to this is to buy the conversion rope to chain gypsey with all the related change parts needed for the unit at a cost of about $650.00.  Maxwell said most people opt for just taking the chrome off.  Hope this helps.
 
 Roc
 Sea Life, #1477
 
 -----Original Message-----
 From:   Charlie Pearsall [SMTP:cpearsall@smcplus.com]
 Sent:   Thursday, January 11, 2001 9:27 AM
 To:     'c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us'
 Subject:        RE: [C34] Securing Anchor Rode
 
 Thanks.  Good tip.  Do you know if Maxwell offers a non-plated drum as a replacement part?
 
 Charlie Pearsall
 C-34 MkII '00 #1515 TRWK
 D E L I R I O U S
 L a n s i n g, N Y
 
 -----Original Message-----
 From:   Palaia, Rocco [CPCUS] [SMTP:rpalaia@cpcus.jnj.com]
 Sent:   Wednesday, January 10, 2001 3:54 PM
 To:     'c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us'
 Subject:        RE: [C34] Securing Anchor Rode
 
 Charlie,
 It seems to me that you use that little line as a means to use the windlass
 to bring up the chain.  Well, I contacted Maxwell, and they told me that the
 drum can be used for chain.  The trick is to take OFF the chrome plating so
 the drum is down to the bronze.  The chain can then be used, just like rope,
 on the BRONZE drum.  The chrome needs to be taken off because the chain will
 take shards of it off and it would get into the line and act like pieces of
 glass into your skin.  I had a friend take the drum to his company machine
 shop and he just buffed the chrome off very easily.  I also noticed in the
 Maxwell manual that it says the windlass can be used with chain if the drum
 is Bronze, so this isn't really a trick, Maxwell says it can be used that
 way.  It doesn't look as pretty without the chrome, but the bronze does give
 it a 'salty' look.  
 
 Roc
 Sea Life, #1477
 
 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Charlie Pearsall [SMTP:cpearsall@smcplus.com]
 > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 12:57 PM
 > To:   'c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us'
 > Subject:      RE: [C34] Securing Anchor Rode
 >
 > My 34 has a very beefy Herschoff style cleat in the well.  Unfortunately,
 > mounted athwartships instead of in the direction of load.  I have
 > installed
 > an anchor lock (aka chain stopper) on the stem bulkhead in the well.  It
 > has a keyed captive 5/16" locking pin.  It is of the type that allows the
 > chain to be completely removed, not the toggle kind.  I mounted it with a
 > stainless plate and two large s/s fender washers on the backside of the
 > well bulkhead.  There is a handy inspection port on my C-34 for access to
 > the anchor windlass so I could get in there to work.
 >
 > The hardest part was mounting the stopper so that the anchor was under
 > tension and held tight when stowed.  There just is no stretch or play in
 > chain.  I attached the lock to the chain and then marked the spot I wanted
 >
 > it using a pencil.  I have been mostly happy with the result.  Under very
 > rough conditions it is no fun trying to re-attach the pin to get under
 > way.
 >
 > I also keep a six foot length of 3/8" line tied off to the base of the
 > anchor rode cleat.  On the end of this I have mounted a chain hook.  This
 > allows me to bring the chain aboard four foot at a time and control it at
 > all times.  I loop the small line around the windlass drum and use it to
 > haul up the chain (I have 35 ft of 5/16" chain on my 35# CQR).  It is not
 > fast, but takes 75% of the gorilla work out of raising anchor.
 >
 > Charlie Pearsall
 > C-34 MkII '00 #1515 TRWK
 > D E L I R I O U S
 > L a n s i n g, N Y
 >
 >
 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Chuck Hughes [SMTP:chuckhughes@yahoo.com]
 > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 12:24 PM
 > To:   C34 Mailing List
 > Subject:      [C34] Securing Anchor Rode
 >
 > My boat has no padeye or other means to secure the
 > anchor rode to the boat in the anchor locker.  I've
 > been using the forward cleat backed up by securing the
 > rode to the mast.
 >
 > What do you folks do?  Any ideas about installing (and
 > backing) a padeye in the anchor locker?
 >
 > Thanks,
 >
 > Chuck Hughes
 > Sand Save #223 (1986)
 > Long Beach, CA
 >
 >
  ;)

8069

Main Message Board / Another Question

« on: June 02, 2001, 08:44:15 PM »

Fulvio
 
 You say: . "I left the pressure pump off for a couple of weeks."
 
 Why did you leave it on to begin with?
 
 Stu

8070

Main Message Board / Accumulators for Automatically Pumped Fresh Water System

« on: June 02, 2001, 08:42:01 PM »

Perhaps you may want to consider Don Casey's idea:  it is a piece of PVC white pipe with a cap.  No inflation necessary.  Comes from his "This Old Boat" book.  The small buffer necessary to keep the pump from running all the time is provided by the PVC pipe.  Lots less expensive than $30. Just "T" the PVC pipe into the outlet of the pump to the faucets.
 
 The other alternative is to let the pump go when it needs to, with no accumulator.  If the pump  wakes anyone up at night, then it's time to add the accumulator, whatever variety comes in handy.
 
 The basic question that I need your help and input:  why do we need this added thingy?  Is the running pump that annoying?  Or is the concern about the continuing "stress" on the pump pressure sensor?
 
 Stu
 
 Stu