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8056

Main Message Board / Demast

« on: August 26, 2002, 11:02:38 AM »

Chris
 
 It's also a great time to both clean and wax the rig, check any and all of the pop rivet and/or screwed connections on the stainless plates for corrosion, clean off the spreaders, touch up paint, and most importantly, get rid of the amp hour monster eating anchor light.  I replaced mine with a Davis Mega Light that has a built in light sensor to turn it off at dawn, and uses hardly any power.
 
 You also get to check all the wiring connections and should replace all the bulbs to avoid having to go up to do it later.  
 
 We also "installed" a good luck coin at the mast step under the mast (keel stepped mast).
 
 One thing not discussed in the responses, so far, has been re-stepping.  My yard installed "new" wooden partner chocks and it's taken a year to get them settled in and to have them stop making scary "crack!" sounds when sailing.  Alternatives are Spartite for the partners.  Just make sure when they stick the stick back in that it's straight.

8057

Main Message Board / Waste Tanks & Head Resource

« on: August 28, 2002, 09:54:49 AM »

Suggest you try this informative and helpful resource
 
 http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pegreflib.tpl?fno=31

8058

Main Message Board / Batteries

« on: August 19, 2002, 01:38:41 PM »

Rick
 
 What kind of charger and alternator regulator do you have on board?  How do you use your boat (long trips, weekend only, always plugged in, etc.)?
 
 The main source of battery death is poor charging.
 
 There is a post on this message board about Charles chargers, within the past few weeks, that you may want to read.
 
 Even if you changed to gel cells (and there's no reason either to do so to or not to do so, right now), if your charging system is deficient, you'll kill any and all kinds of replacement batteries.
 
 Batteries, with good charging and good maintenance, should last 4 or more years.
 
 What the guy on the Catalina 40 was really saying was "Do it MY way."  Not always the right way...
 
 Please give us some more input to better be able to help you.

8059

Main Message Board / Charles Redux

« on: August 27, 2002, 09:58:23 AM »

Terry wrote in [above] about checking the Charles website.  So, I did.
 
 My understanding is that Catalina is installing either the Charles 5000 or 2000 models in C34s.  I saw one recently on a newer Mark II, but sorry, didn't jot the model number down.  Charles also makes a ferroresonant charger.  The ferroresonant charger is NOT the one Catalina is installing.
 
 In any event, the Charles website specs are very interesting.  They claim a three stage charger, but their attached table of charging only includes "8 hour bulk rate output voltage" and "Float Rate Output Voltage."  The bulk rate is either 14.4 for lead acid or 14.0 for gel, and the float is 13.5.
 
 What this means is:
 
 1.  You have to buy a model that matches your battery type, since they can't change the output bulk charge voltage inside the units.  No way to switch battery types in the future unless you buy a new charger!
 
 2.  There is NO mention of acceptance phase.  It appears that the chargers do an 8 hour bulk charge and then switch to float.  This is nonsense, and doesn't charge batteries properly.  The bulk phase is altogether too long, and the important acceptance phase is missing!.  The float phase voltage at 13.5 is between the recommended 13.2 and 13.6 volts.
 
 The Charles [claimed 3 stage, NOT their ferroresonant] charger will still eat your batteries alive.
 
 OTOH, the Statpower, now manufactured under the  Xantrex name, will allow you to change battery types by a simple switch on the unit, and, therefore, charging voltages whenever you choose to change the type of your batteries.  It also includes all three phases reqired for proper charging, plus an equalization mode for wet cells.  The bulk phase is not the incorrect preset 8 hours, but is based on the charger's sensing of the state (voltage)  of the batteries with a time limit of about 20 to 30 minutes.
 
 The only conclusion I can draw from Charles claiming that their models 5000 and 2000 are a three stage charger is they have included OFF as one of the stages!  OFF is where it belongs, all the time.
 
 For those of you with Charles chargers, be real careful about switching to gel cells because the boats came with wet cells.  The 14.4 voltage for wet cells will fry gel cells which only need 14.0 or 14.2 volts at the bulk phase [not 14.4 volts like wet cells do].
 
 [This message was edited by Stu Jackson #224 1986 "Aquavite" on August 27, 2002 at 10:08 AM.]

8060

Main Message Board / Dump the Charles, It's Trash...

« on: August 13, 2002, 05:49:16 PM »

...enough said already.
 
 Stu

8061

Main Message Board / Welcome 2, two, too

« on: August 26, 2002, 06:40:10 PM »

Tez,
 
 Very glad to have you with us.
 
 As you may have noticed, we're a dedicated group of "boat engineers" who are constantly complaining that our boats aren't perfect, but at least we're doing something about it, and "capturing the wisdom."
 
 Please feel free to ask about anything.
 
 You may be pleasantly surprised by some of the answers - I know I always am!!!
 
 Best regards,
 
 Stu
 International C34 Association Secretary
 
 PS  - Have you considered joining the association?  Lots of valuable tech information, a free CD-ROM with the goodies, I'd be glad to send you a list of other C34 owners in your neck of the woods, although you're most likely widely spaced...

8062

Main Message Board / A Question

« on: August 23, 2002, 10:57:49 AM »

Larry
 
 Just for interest's sake:  did you post the same question on the C36 site?  Any interesting responses?
 
 Stu

8063

Main Message Board / Yes

« on: August 19, 2002, 11:23:44 AM »

Larry
 
 If you haven't already, please read the FAQ section of this website, and many of your questions have been addressed.  Since you've gotten as far as this message board, I assume you've read some of the webiste information.
 
 The most applicable part of the FAQ section, in response to your questions, is "Why We Bought the Boat."  That sums up most of the questions you've asked.
 
 I agree with you about the apparent room below between a C36 and our C34s.  I also didn't particularly like having to work my way past the galley sinks on the 36 to get inside the boat, and the aft head on the C34 is one of its best interior design ideas.
 
 We have a fin keel, so I can't answer your questions about groundings, and don't know what kind of water you plan to sail in.  Like all groundings, regardless of keel configuration, it would seem appropriate to keep groundings to a minimum!  (Yup, I can say that, but can I do it?!?)
 
 The boat is a dream under sail in all kinds of conditions.  We sail San Francisco Bay, and I've been out in the ocean a few times.  A friend who recently started sailing with me was amazed at how well the C34 handled, and he'd been renting bareboats for daysails for years.
 
 You may also want to do some more research on this message board, and look back into some of the earlier questions from prospective owners, and new owners who have shared their stories.
 
 Good luck.

8064

Main Message Board / Anchors Aweigh

« on: August 18, 2002, 10:07:22 PM »

Peter & Susan
 
 Each anchor type works best in different bottoms.  Because your particular anchor didn't work at Cuttyhunk doesn't mean it won't work elsewhere.
 
 Please consult with many previously written materials (i.e., West Marine Advisor and catalog for anchors, same for BoatUS, and other "anchor" books).
 
 Those will explain the importance of the TYPE of bottom (grass, mud, sand, coral, et. al.) and how different types of anchors work in each.
 
 The best advice ever presented is to have two different types of anchors, especially if you move around a lot and are anchoring in mud one day, sand the next, and hopefully, coral - the fish sure look better with the coral behind them! :)

8065

Main Message Board / Black & White

« on: August 21, 2002, 10:14:50 AM »

Joel
 
 Have you tried simply printing it out in black & white by using your printer's Properties dialog box?  My printer allows me to choose b&w instead of the default full color.
 
 Stu

8066

Main Message Board / How Did the Switch Happen?

« on: August 18, 2002, 05:43:42 PM »

The original thread of this question seems to have shifted to a completely different topic.
 
 Oh well, been away on the boat for four days, so what the heck!

8067

Main Message Board / Long Handrails

« on: August 13, 2002, 10:16:01 PM »

When recently walking the docks, I noted that most boats have either two short or too short handrails, since many of them only go to the mast.
 
 Like, no one would ever go any further forward on deck?!?
 
 Ron has previously encouraged folks to NOT entirely remove their handrails (even for rebedding for leaks), because, as mentioned above, they start straight and when removed, like to go that way again.  They're a bear to get back in if you remove them completely.  See his Mainsheet article.
 
 A preventer takes and makes a very large load, which should only be handled by a stout fitting, which, unless you're doing an end-boom preventer all the way to the bow, should, must, and can only be a shroud base.  They take the load on a tack, why not a run?
 
 We have not been in situations where an end boom preventer was necessary.  The end of our sailing days are always downwind, dead downwind, with a 400 yard wide main shipping channel as our "turf."
 
 What we do is this:
 
 We rigged a run-back-to-the-cokpit cunningham a few years ago, and put a snap shackle on the single block that connects to the base of the mast.
 
 We have an extra long line on the cunnigham to let it extend a long way.
 
 We take the cunningham hook off the mainsail cunningham cringle, extend the long line, and drop the cunningham's hook onto one of the appropriate mainsheet bails under the boom.
 
 We take the snap shackle off the mast base and rig it easily to a shroud base with the long line.  Depending on wind strength and/or direction, it's attached either to the shroud base or the aft lower base.
 
 With a good balance between the traveller and the mainsheet, with a pull on the former cunnigham line (now the preventer) through the cam cleats on the coachroof, we have a variety of mainsail angles to work with.
 
 Easy to set, easy to remove and does double duty.
 
 Wood's not too good in shear, as you've learned.
 
 Ron's suggestion to repair the handrail makes the most sense.  Should be a reasonably manageable affair to accomplish.  
 
 Aren't you glad you didn't use a stanchion?

8068

Main Message Board / How About...

« on: August 06, 2002, 07:29:38 AM »

...getting a few friends to help?
 
 Jack,
 
 I know singlehanding can be great fun, and sometimes when it comes to boat work, that seems to be all that does happen.
 
 It just occurred to me:  Ron suggested that you raise the muffler 3 to 4 inches to avoid all that wonderful muffler gop doing things you don't want it to do when you replace the petcock.
 
 Is there any chance you could get a few cheerful, helpful comrades to occupy your cockpit and helmsman's seat to lower the stern of the boat while you do that?  You could also get 'em to bring the anchors back aft with them for some additional weight.
 
 The added advantage to them:  they could pretend to go fishing while you're diving and you could be the "Big One That Got Away!"

8069

Main Message Board / It's BAAAACK

« on: August 03, 2002, 11:13:55 PM »

tbone's website is revived.
 
 Please give it a try (for you desktop folks).
 
 Please refer to the link noted above.
 
 Happy sine waves to you all...

8070

Main Message Board / tbone Lives!!

« on: July 22, 2002, 09:39:52 AM »

the link I posted recently is still down, but it was because their "trusty" server died.  They're getting a new one, so it should be up soon.
 
 It's not as nifty as the handhelds you are discussing, but plenty enough, for the right price, for those of you doing anything requiring tides and currents with a wealth of datapoints.