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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: 1 ... 535 536 [537] 538 539 ... 548
Main Message Board / Improvements
« on: July 16, 2002, 07:54:00 AM »
Thanks, Mark, and congratulations.
 Always good to hear good news, and obtain positive feedback.
 Keep up the good work (and have fun doing it!).

Main Message Board / Adler Barbour
« on: July 15, 2002, 09:43:19 AM »
 I had pretty much the same problem recently.  I checked out AB's board on the website, did the forensics, and found it to be a faulty fan.  Maybe I was lucky, and it wasn't the module.
 In any event, replacing the entire unit is much harder than just slapping in a new module, and much more expensive.  Since your unit is so old, it most likely uses R12 refrigerant, no longer available.  And you shouldn't mix the older and newer types of refrigerants, so don't figure on getting a new compressor unit and attaching it to the old evaporator (in the box).
 If the unit is still cooling, that means your refrigerant charge is still OK.
 I would first check the fan, then if necessary, bite the bullet and put in the new module.
 If you check the AB forum at, I believe there is an alternative module that may cost less.

Main Message Board / PLEEEZE
« on: July 13, 2002, 09:00:33 PM »
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Norris Johnson #1408 1998 "Mariposa":
                               So the new M35B engines have a belt-driven raw water pump. I hope so. I will contact them about getting the brackets, hoses, belt,etc. for a conversion kit.
 Norris Johnson<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 Don't try it.  It doesn't exist.
 There was a confusion on Jack's part about the naming of the pumps.
 The lAST thing anyone would want to do is to put a belt drive on the raw water pump.
 To paraphrase: GUYS, let's get real.

Main Message Board / Sherwood Raw Water Pump
« on: July 13, 2002, 09:17:27 AM »
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by tassber2:
                               I had to replace my Sherwood raw water pump last month after 340 engine hours.  It seems we should get better longevity from these pumps.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 What was the nature of the problem with your pump, seals, impeller, etc.?              
 It may be appropriate for you to start a new topic, since this one has dealt with "freash" (internal coolant) pumps, and the Sherwood is the raw water pump.
 Please let us know what you found and how you fixed it.
 Good news, Jack.  And it was the raw water pump seals, right?

Main Message Board / Diesel Engine Parts
« on: July 05, 2002, 10:25:17 PM »
 To view the internal components of your pump, try this site.
 It includes individual parts blowups.
 The seals can be replaced.  It requires removing the pump.  You can do it yourself, or have a shop do it.  You can also purchase a new pump, repair the old one and have an instant backup.
 Additional information on raw water pumps can be found using the search engines on this message board and the C34 wbsite, they're two separate search engines.
 From your description it is unclear whether it's your raw water (sea water) pump or the fresh water pump.  The fresh water pump is more or less inside the engine, whereas the raw water pump is mounted on the outside, and is NOT driven by a belt.
 Both pumps are shown on the referenced website, the fresh water pump is called Water Pump.  The raw water pump is Sherwood and Sherwood NEW.

Main Message Board / Microwaves
« on: July 14, 2002, 10:33:25 AM »
The interior cabinetry arrangements on the C34 has changed over the years.
 One of the most popular microwave installations on the older boats has been to remove the small drawer under the galley sink and put the microwave there.  The drawer can then be reused, we put ours under the V berth, now have two drawers up front.

Main Message Board / am/fm/stereo installation and speaker placement
« on: July 04, 2002, 10:12:52 AM »
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Rodney Grim:
                               Isn't "aft lazarette" an oxymoron? (this coming from a guy who couldn't remember that an "transom storage locker" IS a lazzarette!)<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 Yup, took me a few years to figure out what to call them!  I now use lazarrette for the aft "boom box," and port locker for the other one.  Good thing there are only two of 'em!  
 Now if I could only stop syaing "going downstairs," "bathroom," and "kitchen," I'd be doing OK.

Main Message Board / No stereo?
« on: July 01, 2002, 12:09:06 PM »
I believe, I believe.  Our PO didn't have one either.  They just watched TV at the dock!
 I bought a car stereo and matched 6 disc CD changer.  Mounted it just forward of the nav station.  The cassette - radio unit is mounted to the underside of the deck.  The CD changer is mounted to the shelf that is the top of the space with the black sliding doors below.  I got a great deal on some small Radio Shack speakers for inside, and they lay on the shelf one aft of the cassette, one way at the forward end of the shelf.  I store the CDs on this shelf, and the cassette tapes behind the black sliding doors over the nav station.
 After trying to figure out the "best" place for the cockpit speakers, I agree with Rodney's assessment for placement.  The sound gets out very well to the cockpit, and when you're behind the wheel, the angled cockpit seats bounce the sound back to you.  Aslo easiest place to install.  You'll find that the pacement isn't exactly equal, since the manual bilge pump on the port side moves that speaker a little more to the center line.  It just doesn't matter.
 I haven't hit them with my feet in three years and they still work.  Got the Horizon Standards, white exterior round speakers.  Many other companies now make them, like West Marine.  Their template was wrong, so you'll need to cut the holes and use a dremel tool to enlarge them a bit to get the speakers to fit.  The aft lazarette makes it a great boom box!
 The newer MP3 technology is a great idea, too.

Main Message Board / Underwater Frolics
« on: July 08, 2002, 09:41:11 AM »
 Last year we invested in a wetsuit for me, short sleeves and cutoff length legs.  With our water temperatures at 57 degrees year round, swimming isn't a whole lot of fun here in San Francisco.
 Anytime I question potential problems underwater, I don the wetsuit, mask and snorkel, and go find out.  That helped last week in checking my prop.
 While I can't say it's "fun" (yet) it sure beats going in with only a pair of swim trunks.

Main Message Board / Underwater Noises
« on: July 07, 2002, 04:53:09 PM »
Ron's right, although most of the parts of his engine are also original, just a few though.
 Cutless bearings do not POP and go POOF all of a sudden.  There is a very good article on cutless bearings in the most recent issue of Good Old Boat magazine.

Main Message Board / Let's Twist Again...
« on: July 07, 2002, 04:50:20 PM »
Larry's boat is a 1986.  My experience is that the older boats came with swiveling big black blocks.  We changed ours out as noted above.

Main Message Board / Twist Blocks
« on: July 03, 2002, 04:32:47 PM »
Our PO had used thin coated sail twine to tie bewteen the blocks where they came together at the swivel and twisted.  It didn't completely eliminate the twist, but helped appreciably.
 A few years ago I got a complete new mainsheet block setup from Garhauer, very good price.
 If you do, be sure to check the block at the base of the mast and to order the proper end fitting for that block if you want it to fit in the pin at the base of the mast.  I didn't, and had to buy a D shackle to make that connection.

Main Message Board / Floor De-stick
« on: July 04, 2002, 10:04:16 AM »
We have a 10.2 Zodiac Cadet inflatable air floor, bought new and is now about two years old.  When we first took it out, we ended up near another boat with a similar model dinghy.  
 The owner showed us his carpeted floor!  
 He had purchased outdoor carpet at a hardware store, and cut it to fit so that when you inflate the tubes, it sticks underneath between the air floor and the bottom of the tubes.  The bottom of the carpet is non-skid anyway, but this makes a cleaner, neater installation.
 We cut slits in it, too, to be able to use the straps for the fuel tank.  It's a great idea, because we were always trying to clean the floor (repetitive and never "finished") and it gives great traction.  Just take the outdoor carpet out once in a while, shake it out, hose it down, air dry and reinstall.  
 You may want to use some dinghy protectant / cleaner on the floor before you put the carpet in to get rid of the sticky stuff.
 A muted color is best.  Too light to try to offset heat, makes it light and will catch dirt.  Too dark, and it'll get your feet too hot in summer sun!  We have a medium to light blue which seems to go OK with the gray color of the Zodiac.

Main Message Board / Reefing Lines
« on: July 03, 2002, 04:56:40 PM »
 The length of the reefing line is based on how you want to rig it.  The length has to be measured at your boat based on the height of the 2nd reef points.  Start at the gooseneck, down the length of the boom, up through the cringle, back down to the boom.  For single line reefing, add the length of line at the tack up and down through the cringle.  If you have a separate tack reef line, add those dimensions for a separate line.  Then add more line if you want to run them aft.  Just figure out how you want to rig it, and measure between the dots.
 Record the measurements, and add 5 to 10% for knots, and there you are.
 Minimum 5/16 or
 3/8 inch line, not for strength, but for use, your hands won't work too well with smaller line.  If it looks too small it probably is, if it looks too fat it's overkill.  Again, not strength of line, but "handle-ability," if there is such a word.
 See my recent message board post on other reefing questions and ideas, for a description of our four line reefing system with two reef points.
 The color of the line is up to you, but my experience is that you want them to "disappear" and be as invisible as possible.

Main Message Board / I Met a Man...
« on: July 02, 2002, 10:56:47 PM »
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Steve Lyle, #75 1986, "Sewanee Belle":
                               In Practical Sailors's  review of the Cat 34 they included a graph of the price of an '86 fin (no mention of rig).  It looks on the chart like the price was a bit above $50k.  This was for the base boat with no options. (so I guess that means the std rig).
 Same article (written in '90) says the '90 base price was $58,895, with a well equipped boat at $75,999.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 ...last week, who has a brand new C34, beautiful boat, who "complained" about the C34 website.
 He said, "My wife looked at one of 'your' articles, which said that the cost of the boat was only $70,000.'  When I started looking for new boats, the cost was over $100,000."
 I asked him which website he was purusing.  His answer, ""
 "But that's not our website, you know, we're ''," I replied.
 "No difference," he said, "it's on 'your' web."
 Guess he thinks he can still buy a VW Bug for $2,400 because he saved or read a 1964 San Francisco Chronicle.
 Wish I could.
 PS - please, let us ALL continue to include dates for anything to do with prices $$$  :)
 PPs - The original C34 Sail Magazine review and price/option lists are in the History section of our website. Thanks to Mark, our associate webmaster, and to those of you who contributed to this by sending the originals of the price lists, options and review article to us to post.
 [This message was edited by Stu Jackson #224 1986 "Aquavite" on July 02, 2002 at 11:05 PM.]

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