Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  

News:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: 1 ... 535 536 [537] 538 539 ... 553
8041
Main Message Board / Welcome
« on: October 24, 2002, 02:30:32 PM »
Mark
 
 Hope you closed the deal.  To give you an idea of what a great first year could be for you, check out Steve Lyle's "weBLOG" post.
 
 Best regards, and keep us posted,
 
 Stu

8042
Main Message Board / Great Job, Steve
« on: October 24, 2002, 02:28:07 PM »
Who needs a search engine when you've said it all!!
 
 Tremendous and well presented review.  Thanks so much.
 
 If you have pictures of this work, you could get an article published in Good Old Boat magazine, you certainly qualify.
 
 Good luck on your upcoming projects, may they go as smoothly as those this past year.
 
 Happy Anniversary!!!

YEAR TWO of Steve's weblog:   http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1237.msg6483.html#msg6483

8043
Randy
 
 I understand your setup.  Do you have a newer regulator for your alternator?  What alternator do you have?  How do you max out the output of the alternator to reduce engine operating time for charging (since the original boats had the standard automotive, and, therefore, useless, regulators)?  No wonder you need to run the engine two hours a day, if you don't have a newer regulator.  
 
 If I guess correctly, one of the best things you could to is to "simply"  :eek: add a new regulator to reduce engine running time.  We have an old manual AutoMac, which I learned to use without harming the batteries - does the same thing as the new smart regulators do, but I do have to control it carefully.
 
 Stu

8044
Main Message Board / Solar
« on: October 18, 2002, 02:08:30 PM »

8045
Main Message Board / I Do the Same Thing...
« on: October 18, 2002, 07:31:50 PM »
...as Ron described, but with a little twist.
 
 To keep the cruddy-ness of the shorepower cord from "staining" the lifelines, I make sure that where they are connected ith the velcro ties is next to one fo the metal pieces on the lifelines.
 
 Now, how's that for minutia.  I always thought that shorepower cords were supposed to look ratty so no one would steal 'em!

8046
Main Message Board / And there is always...
« on: October 19, 2002, 09:11:17 PM »
Randy,
 
 ....DUCTAPE.
 
 Stu
 
 ducktape   quaak quaak  .....  >>>>/

Added 6/1/06:  or a little noticed but very handy THING to have aboard:  a bicycle tire and hose clamps.  Many fancy uses...

8047
Main Message Board / 1997 Adler Barbour Refrigerant Type
« on: October 11, 2002, 09:24:03 AM »
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>does anyone know what type of refrigerant a 97 model would need and where I can get a fitting (size)<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
 Randy,
 
 Call Gary at Adler Barbour at Phone: (860)664-4911.  He's very helpful and should be able to answer your question.  They're in Massachusetts.  He can tell you what type you have, and also who their local manufacturers representative is depending on where your boat is kept.
 
 You could, aternatively, post the question on catalinaowners.com, Expert Forum, Refrigeration, which is hosted by Adler Barbour.  The answer may take a bit longer.  That website also has a very good search engine, once you recognize the need to differentiate between current and archived message searches, and text, all or title searches.
 
 Rather than getting some for your cruises, why not consider just having it checked out and, if necessary, topped off before you depart?  That way you don't have to hassle with it, and unless you have a leak, you should be fine for years to come.

8049
Main Message Board / Adler Barbour Unit Replacement
« on: July 28, 2002, 10:14:12 PM »
Bernd
 
 I recently had to replace my fan, after doing a lot of my own research on the A/B forum.
 
 When I purchased the fan from my local A/B rep, I asked him about unit replacement, specifically if I could just replace the compressor and leave the old evaporator, being careful to get rid of all of the old refrigerant.  (The new refrigerants are different chemicals and can't be mixed.)
 
 He told me a story about how he had tried to save one of his clients some money and tried to keep the old evaporator.
 
 End result:  a unit that didn't work, and a very dissatisfied client, who, duh!, forgot that it was his own decision to try to save some money in the first place.
 
 Moral: if you need to replace the old compressor unit, you HAVE to do the whole thing.
 
 The advantage, as noted, is ten more years of a new unit.  Disadvantage is cost if you can have your old unit recharged, or if you just need a new electronic module.
 
 For those of you who may not be aware of it, www.catalinaowners.com has an excellent Adler Barbour Expert Forum.  
 
 Good luck.

8050
Main Message Board / Inward Opening Doors
« on: July 29, 2002, 11:33:20 AM »
Al & Candy
 
 If the doors opened inwards, it would create a different problem in addition to head banging:  water tightness.  If you look at where the slats are installed, they're kind of "outside" in their groove, and so keep the water outside the boat.
 
 Only other thing we haven't considered is a garage-like ROLL UP DOOR that conveniently hides away behind the storm cover.  But the automatic garage door opener would most likely throw off the autopilot, confuse the loran, and muck up the GPS!!!

8051
Main Message Board / Why Not Doors to Begin With?
« on: July 28, 2002, 07:37:01 AM »
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Al & Candy #1488 (2000) "DUN WISH'N":
 Does anyone know why sailboats have the wooden slats for the main opening?  Is it just tradition or is there a specific reason? :confused:<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
 I've been mulling this question over for the past week.  After looking at the referenced websites for doors, the most obvious one that comes to mind is that the doors can't open all the way because the bottom of the opening is lower than the cockpit seats.  So, to make the companionway opening clean, without obstructions, someone (probably on Noah's crew) came up with the idea of the trapezoidal slats (there's yet another C34 engineer-ese phrase).
 
 The unintended consequences of this hatchboard concept directly resulted in the five million two hundred seventeen thousand eight hundred and sixty nine queries to the the C34 website: "Where do I stow my hatchboards?" (Mark I Owners only)
 
 I understand that the statue of limitations have expired, and we can't go after Noah anymore to get the doors put back as OEMs.

8052
Main Message Board / Another Companionway Door Source...
« on: July 27, 2002, 05:47:49 AM »

8053
Main Message Board / More...
« on: October 13, 2002, 10:03:09 PM »

8054
Main Message Board / ARS III
« on: October 13, 2002, 09:17:42 PM »
Gene
 
 The instructions for your unit can be found at  http://www.balmar.net/PDF/ARS-3manual.pdf
 
 This may be the same information you have on your boat.
 
 You're right, there is no equalization phase on this regulator.  It was a try, but looking at the instructions, you're right.  Some regulators do have this feature, to allow the alternator to do an equalization, for instance, no shore power, ever, and just the engine.
 
 Best I can suggest from where I am and your description is to follow the "Common System Problems" troubleshooting on page 2.
 
 I still suggest you drain your batteries as I described earlier today to make sure the unit is cycling through its three phases. Based on the instructions, to adjust the volatges, the lower float voltage "can only be adjusted down if the batteries are in a slightly discharged state."  You have to cut the shorepower and drain them down a bit, at the very least.
 
 Also, you were right in wiping of the "paint" from the screws since the instructions mention that they come with a protective coating.  They suggest you use a sealant to recover the pots once you're done.
 
 Other than wiring and connections and ground, what you can adjust are the float voltage adjustments, max voltage adjustment and absorption time, preset for two hours.  
 
 I'd also check the white stator tach feed from the regulator to the alternator and then to the tach itself.  I'd remove and check each connection, even if they "look" good.
 
 This kinda brings us back to where you started: the tach doesn't work, sometimes.  Again, try draining your batteries.  If you're plugged in all the time, your batteries ARE topped off, and you'll need to turn a DC load, like the fridge and some lights, on to do the checkout.  Once the float time is done, based on the timer settings, the alternator WILL go OFF.  Try increasing the float timing to the max of 5 hours and then to the minimum and see what happens.
 
 Sometimes, just moving the screws loosens things up and things start working.
 
 I still don't understand how you were getting 16.85 volts charging, since it doesn't have equlaization.  Checking the voltages based on the installation guide is the first step.
 
 Ron may be right in terms of having it sent back to Balmar, either for a checkout (which you be able to have done locally) or an ugrade/swap, only time will tell.
 
 We don't call it VooDoo electrics for nothing!!! :rolleyes:
 
 Keep in touch.
 
 Best regards,
 
 Stu
 
 [This message was edited by Stu Jackson #224 1986 "Aquavite" on October 13, 2002 at 09:32 PM.]

8055
Main Message Board / Tach and Alternator / ? Equalization Setting
« on: October 13, 2002, 10:36:10 AM »
Gene
 
 My understanding is that the tach runs from the alternator, not from anywhere else on the engine itself, and the tach will only be running when the alternator field wiring is "excited" and is given the signal that it needs to charge, since the alternator output is also the input to the tach.  
 
 No alternator output, no input to the tach.
 
 If your regulator, even if it is a Balmar, is turning the alternator completely off, that's why you're not getting any tach readings.
 
 If you were overcharging at that high voltage, it could be the equalization setting on the regulator.
 
 Ron's suggestions to get a three stage regulator is reasonable, in that it provides the bulk, absorbtion and float stages, so in float you're always getting some charge to the batteries, hence, the tach will continue operate without interruption.
 
 On our old boats, with just the OEM regulators, the alternator's always "putting out," so no tach problems.
 
 It could be that the Balmar regulator you do have may not be a smart three stage regulator (don't know how old it is, but Balmar started the smart regulation concept on regulators, so it SHOULD be a three stage), or it may not be functioning properly if it is a smart regulator, or it could be set on the high voltage equalization setting.
 
 It would be a good idea to check out the operation of your regulator in all three phases.  Do you still have the manual?
 
 To do that, you'd have to drain your batteries down to say 60% by leaving a 10 amp load on overnight, then take the boat out on the water, rather than idling at 1500 rpm in the slip.  
 
 Since the batteries now need a bulk charge, you should be reading high amps and volts.  As they come up to a 75% to 80% charge, then the amps should reduce while maintaining the 14.4 +/- voltage.  Eventually, when fully charged, the charging voltage should drop to 13.3, and stay there in "float" mode.  The West Marine Advisor on Smart Battery Charging has those voltages listed for both gel and wet cells.
 
 When you said the batteries were being charged at 16.85 volts, it doesn't sound to me like the difference between gel and wet cell settings. It sounds like the regulator was set for equalization mode, which is a controlled, deliberate overcharge that should be performed on wet cells periodically, never on gels.
 
 Please check to make sure the equalization setting is OFF.  Once you do that, you may have NO problems.
 
 Good luck and keep us posted.
 
 Best regards,
 
 Stu

Pages: 1 ... 535 536 [537] 538 539 ... 553