Messages

Jerry

You just won't get a four hole cleat installed because there's not enough room down below to get your fingers, let alone the spread of a four-holer.

If you haven't yet, check Ron's writeup in Projects:  http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-extra-bow-cleats.html

I only added one on the port side, so I have two - still use the center one for the starboard side.

Jerry

Two major issues (beyond weight) that affect anchor choice

--- Bottom conditions

--- Shifting currents (rivers, tidal areas)

The Bruce, CQR, Delta types can reset after a current shift.  Danforths usually can't.

The bottom conditions also are a consideration.  I recommend simply checking West Marine or other catalogs - usually they have anchor charts that discuss the types of bottoms that the anchors are good in as well as sizing.  Sometimes the individual anchor selection / descriptions includes that information.

Sounds like you are going to have a great season ahead of you with all the god work you've done on "Resolution."

Jerry

This: http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-ron-hill.html  has a picture of Ron's anchor roller.

Also the May 95 Tech Notes have the write up from Ron with a photo.

Other tech notes mentioning anchor rollers are:  Nov 97, Feb 99, Nov 87, Feb 89 and May 92.

See http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-beckson.html for leaky Beckson ports for you folks with boats in the 0 to 300 hull number range.

Also see http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2629.0 for references to the original C34 homepage for lots of material on older boats.

ross99

Try these:

http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-air-conditioning-2.html

http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-air-conditioning.html

They're in the Project page on the homepage, noted in: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2629.0

I know this doesn't answer your question specifically, but mention them just in case you were not aware of these articles.

himarks

What is your hull # and year?

A search on generator here will bring you lots of discussions.  Hal Devera, who recently left the group, has provided us with lots of good advice as have many others.  We also don't know what systems you may, or may not, already have on your boat.  For instance, Hal's post about current limiting with a generator is very helpful, only if you have a Link! 

If you don't see what you're looking for here after your search, specifically, or if you've done one already, please let us know.  Ray's direction to C42 is worthwhile, and I suggest you look at the C36 website, too.

Brain

Thanks for a great roundup of information and excellent direct references.

In case anyone else's manuals aren't immediately at hand, they are available at: http://www.c34.org/manuals/index.htm

Thanks again.

Brian

The manual that came with our boat (1986) had a long discussion about lightning protection and explained why Catalina does nothing about it.

I would assume that they haven't changed that point of view in the past almost 20 years.  The idea is, basically, it's your boat, do what you like, we can't cover every eventuality and can't take responsibility for lightning.

A not unusual, nor unrealistic point of view, as I see it.

You may want to check your manual to see if anything's changed.

There's plenty on this site about lightning protection, search-ing on this message board and reviewing the Tech Notes Index and Online.

ross99

Pic inserts:

Go to Additional Options down below

In Attach, use the browse button to find the pic on your hard drive.  Make sure it's less than 50KB,

Then click on Post.

Ron sent me this a while ago

Craig

1986, with an 85% and a 110%.  The answer, in part, depends on how your sails are cut and how low the clew is.  Racing sailors have "deck sweepers" that keep the clew low, with resultant lack of visibility forward.

Our clews are both pretty high (we're cruisers, but inherited our two jibs).  I leave the fairleads forward, because that's how the leech of both of the sails set well in moderate winds.  This also includes how your luff telltales work, since you want all three or four streaming properly.

If the wind pipes up, the idea is to move the fairleads back to drop wind off the top of the sail by opening the leech.  Others simply start to furl to reef the jib, although I must admit that we've only reefed the 110 twice.  It's much better to reef the main first, especially with smaller jibs like our 85 and 110 and your 90.

So, check where the best set for your leech is in moderate and lighter winds for your fairlead position, taking into account the telltales on the luff, move the fairlead back for heavier air.

I also think that a 90 should be able to hang in there, with a reefed main, in 30 apparent without having to spill off the the top of the jib.

If your fairlead, like mine, is as far forward as it goes already, then when you reef the jib, there's no choice.

Jim

Try H&L Marine - 213-636-1718

They made the cabinets.

To add to Ron's post:  we installed the drawer that used to be under the galley sink in that location.  The PO had installed a microwave under the galley sink and left the drawer.  I cut through the fiberglass and put in the drawer - also gives good access to the thru-hulls for the knot meter and the depth sounder transducers.  This picture shows the 2 drawers: the original upper drawer and the new lower one, plus the "lip" for the DOWN position.  I do not know if the Mark IIs have the DOWN position lip for the insert.

See more pictures at: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2711.0

The DOWN position is to place the insert at about knee height in the additional recess built into the fiberglass below the wide drawer in the forward cabin. 

and so do us civilians