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Messages - Stu Jackson

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7906
Main Message Board / Reefer shut off valve
« on: June 27, 2001, 10:26:49 AM »
Fulvio
 
 If you haven't already, I suggest you check out the Projects section on the website, Ice Box & Galley Drain.  I contributed a shutoff valve article that addresses your question.  It's only one of a number of ways to do this but it works for us.
 
 Stu

7907
Main Message Board / Polar Chart & Website Search Engine
« on: May 18, 2001, 07:40:34 AM »
Gary,
 
 One of the things that makes the C34 Website so valuable is that there is a great SEARCH engine built right in.
 
 Using that gives you the polar chart right off the bat.
 
 I encourage all Message Board users to utilize the search engine to research their questions in addition to the Message Board.
 
 Best regards, Stu

7908
Main Message Board / Windlass
« on: June 05, 2001, 09:41:42 AM »
Peter
 
 HERE'S SOME CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE OLD MAILING LIST.  SUGGEST YOU GET IN TOUCH WITH THE AUTHORS DIRECTLY AND SEE IF THEY CAN ADD ANYTHING IF YOU HAVE FURTHER QUESTIONS.
 
 Best regards, Stu
 
 *******************************************
 
 Subj:  RE: [C34] Securing Anchor Rode
 Date:  1/11/2001 7:42:54 AM Pacific Standard Time
 From:    rpalaia@cpcus.jnj.com (Palaia, Rocco [CPCUS])
 Sender:    owner-c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us
 Reply-to:    c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us
 To:    c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us ('c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us')
 
 
 Charlie,
 I asked about that.  They said all drums start out un-plated.  Then they chrome plate them.  So basically, it's the same drum in all respects.  Don't be afraid to buff the chrome off.  My friend (works in metalurgy R&D) said the chrome was so thin it just came right off.  Maxwell said I could do it myself, but not knowing what it would entail, and since I know someone who works with metals, I asked him to do it.  If you are not comfortable doing it, find a local Tool & Die shop, I'm sure they could do it for you.  Or maybe an autoparts store with an inhouse machine shop (resurface rotors, etc), maybe they could help.  One thing Maxwell told me was that over time (years of use) a few dings could develop on the drum.  But they said if it ever does, just tap them smooth with a hammer.  The alternative to this is to buy the conversion rope to chain gypsey with all the related change parts needed for the unit at a cost of about $650.00.  Maxwell said most people opt for just taking the chrome off.  Hope this helps.
 
 Roc
 Sea Life, #1477
 
 -----Original Message-----
 From:   Charlie Pearsall [SMTP:cpearsall@smcplus.com]
 Sent:   Thursday, January 11, 2001 9:27 AM
 To:     'c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us'
 Subject:        RE: [C34] Securing Anchor Rode
 
 Thanks.  Good tip.  Do you know if Maxwell offers a non-plated drum as a replacement part?
 
 Charlie Pearsall
 C-34 MkII '00 #1515 TRWK
 D E L I R I O U S
 L a n s i n g, N Y
 
 -----Original Message-----
 From:   Palaia, Rocco [CPCUS] [SMTP:rpalaia@cpcus.jnj.com]
 Sent:   Wednesday, January 10, 2001 3:54 PM
 To:     'c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us'
 Subject:        RE: [C34] Securing Anchor Rode
 
 Charlie,
 It seems to me that you use that little line as a means to use the windlass
 to bring up the chain.  Well, I contacted Maxwell, and they told me that the
 drum can be used for chain.  The trick is to take OFF the chrome plating so
 the drum is down to the bronze.  The chain can then be used, just like rope,
 on the BRONZE drum.  The chrome needs to be taken off because the chain will
 take shards of it off and it would get into the line and act like pieces of
 glass into your skin.  I had a friend take the drum to his company machine
 shop and he just buffed the chrome off very easily.  I also noticed in the
 Maxwell manual that it says the windlass can be used with chain if the drum
 is Bronze, so this isn't really a trick, Maxwell says it can be used that
 way.  It doesn't look as pretty without the chrome, but the bronze does give
 it a 'salty' look.  
 
 Roc
 Sea Life, #1477
 
 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Charlie Pearsall [SMTP:cpearsall@smcplus.com]
 > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 12:57 PM
 > To:   'c34@ripley.chokey.mo.md.us'
 > Subject:      RE: [C34] Securing Anchor Rode
 >
 > My 34 has a very beefy Herschoff style cleat in the well.  Unfortunately,
 > mounted athwartships instead of in the direction of load.  I have
 > installed
 > an anchor lock (aka chain stopper) on the stem bulkhead in the well.  It
 > has a keyed captive 5/16" locking pin.  It is of the type that allows the
 > chain to be completely removed, not the toggle kind.  I mounted it with a
 > stainless plate and two large s/s fender washers on the backside of the
 > well bulkhead.  There is a handy inspection port on my C-34 for access to
 > the anchor windlass so I could get in there to work.
 >
 > The hardest part was mounting the stopper so that the anchor was under
 > tension and held tight when stowed.  There just is no stretch or play in
 > chain.  I attached the lock to the chain and then marked the spot I wanted
 >
 > it using a pencil.  I have been mostly happy with the result.  Under very
 > rough conditions it is no fun trying to re-attach the pin to get under
 > way.
 >
 > I also keep a six foot length of 3/8" line tied off to the base of the
 > anchor rode cleat.  On the end of this I have mounted a chain hook.  This
 > allows me to bring the chain aboard four foot at a time and control it at
 > all times.  I loop the small line around the windlass drum and use it to
 > haul up the chain (I have 35 ft of 5/16" chain on my 35# CQR).  It is not
 > fast, but takes 75% of the gorilla work out of raising anchor.
 >
 > Charlie Pearsall
 > C-34 MkII '00 #1515 TRWK
 > D E L I R I O U S
 > L a n s i n g, N Y
 >
 >
 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Chuck Hughes [SMTP:chuckhughes@yahoo.com]
 > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 12:24 PM
 > To:   C34 Mailing List
 > Subject:      [C34] Securing Anchor Rode
 >
 > My boat has no padeye or other means to secure the
 > anchor rode to the boat in the anchor locker.  I've
 > been using the forward cleat backed up by securing the
 > rode to the mast.
 >
 > What do you folks do?  Any ideas about installing (and
 > backing) a padeye in the anchor locker?
 >
 > Thanks,
 >
 > Chuck Hughes
 > Sand Save #223 (1986)
 > Long Beach, CA
 >
 >
  ;)

7909
Main Message Board / Another Question
« on: June 02, 2001, 08:44:15 PM »
Fulvio
 
 You say: . "I left the pressure pump off for a couple of weeks."
 
 Why did you leave it on to begin with?
 
 Stu

7910
Perhaps you may want to consider Don Casey's idea:  it is a piece of PVC white pipe with a cap.  No inflation necessary.  Comes from his "This Old Boat" book.  The small buffer necessary to keep the pump from running all the time is provided by the PVC pipe.  Lots less expensive than $30. Just "T" the PVC pipe into the outlet of the pump to the faucets.
 
 The other alternative is to let the pump go when it needs to, with no accumulator.  If the pump  wakes anyone up at night, then it's time to add the accumulator, whatever variety comes in handy.
 
 The basic question that I need your help and input:  why do we need this added thingy?  Is the running pump that annoying?  Or is the concern about the continuing "stress" on the pump pressure sensor?
 
 Stu
 
 Stu

7911
Main Message Board / Type of caps
« on: June 08, 2001, 07:12:55 PM »
It just occurred to me:  
 
 1.  winch handles are usually stowed inboard behind locked compartments.
 
 2.   you were looking for hand operated caps
 
 3.  wouldn't the "helpful" diesel / water filler have had more trouble getting the cap off if he didn't have access to a winch handle?  
 
 (OK, OK, he could have used some other sort of blunt instrument to unscrew the cap.)

7912
Main Message Board / Deck Caps
« on: May 23, 2001, 04:08:14 PM »
Dave, I was just waiting for someone to bring this one up again!
 
 Al Watson found this a while ago:
 
 ´╗┐urfing the net and found that Catalina Direct has the Replacement Deck Pipe  Caps
 Red - Fuel Z1874  $10.95
 Blue -Water  Z1872  $10.95
 Black - Waste Z1873 $10.95
 
 See them at:
 http://www.catalinadirect.com/Deck%20Pipe%20Caps.html
 
 I got them by mail order in a few days and they work great.
 
 Suggestion: since they are plastic, coat them with suntan lotion!  Yes, really.  Keeps them from breaking down in the UV.
 
 One of the best ways to avoid having this happen  is to DISCONNECT the dang chains to begin with.  Then one doesn't rely on them.  Be careful when removing the caps, place them in the cockpit and bingo, they stay there.
 
 Hope your wallet came back, too.
 
 Stu

7913
Main Message Board / Same issue
« on: June 06, 2001, 06:21:42 PM »
Dave
 
 Here's what I get when I do that:  same "illegal"  (how nice of Redmond!) message with the following:
 
 IEXPLORE caused an invalid page fault in
 module BROWSEUI.DLL at 0167:7f338bd9.
 Registers:
 EAX=0042d224 CS=0167 EIP=7f338bd9 EFLGS=00010296
 EBX=00520454 SS=016f ESP=0058bf04 EBP=0058d1c4
 ECX=ffffd1a4 DS=016f ESI=00000104 FS=0c7f
 EDX=00000000 ES=016f EDI=7f3a6200 GS=0000
 Bytes at CS:EIP:
 ff 74 c8 04 8d 04 c8 8b 08 8d 85 98 fd ff ff 50
 Stack dump:
 00000104 7152e120 7f332ab8 00520470 003a0044 0066005c 00710061 0070002d 00670061 00730065 0069005c 0064006e 00780065 0068002e 006d0074 0d1e0000
 
 Hope that helps.
 
 Stu

7914
Main Message Board / Another Option for Using the CD
« on: June 04, 2001, 01:16:41 PM »
Also just remembered:  you can use Window's "FIND" to search the CD for text also.  This should be helpful to all those of you who would like a "search engine" similar to the website.  It's there, but not on the disk, just use Windows to do it for you, using the "containing text" box.
 
 Stu

7915
Main Message Board / CD Operation
« on: June 03, 2001, 11:07:32 AM »
I have the same problem.  What does work is to use Windows Explorer, and access the individual files in that folder. The files are well named, so you should be able to find what you are looking for relatively easily.  I understand that Wemaster and CD author Dave Smith is away for a few days.  I suggest that you send him an email directly, and if he has a better fix, please post the response.  
 
 Best regards,  
 
 Stu Jackson
 Catalina 34 International Secretary
 222 Wildwood Avenue
 Piedmont, CA 94610-1102
 510-208-1906
 fax: 510-465-7927
 email: sec@c34.org or mraquaq@aol.com
 #224 1986 Aquavite

7916
Main Message Board / This should work for new boats, too
« on: June 06, 2001, 08:19:19 AM »
Vigor's Interdenominational
 Boat Denaming Ceremony
 by John Vigor  
 
 
 Due to an overwhelming number of requests for copies of John Vigor's Interdenominational Boat Denaming Ceremony, we are rerunning it again. Now, take care to save this one!
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 I once knew a man in Florida who told me he'd owned 24 different yachts and renamed every single one of them.
 "Did it bring you bad luck?" I asked.
 "Not that I'm aware of," he said. "You don't believe in those old superstitions, do you?"
 Well, yes. Matter of fact, I do. And I'm not alone. Actually, it's not so much being superstitious as being v-e-r-y careful. It's an essential part of good seamanship.
 Some years ago, when I wanted to change the name of my newly purchased 31-foot sloop from Our Way to Freelance, I searched for a formal "denaming ceremony" to wipe the slate clean in preparation for the renaming. I read all the books, but I couldn't find one. What I did learn, though, was that such a ceremony should consist of five parts: an invocation, an expression of gratitude, a supplication, a re-dedication and a libation. So I wrote my own short ceremony. Vigor's inter-denominational denaming ceremony. It worked perfectly. Freelance carried me and my family many thousands of deep-sea miles both north and south of the equator, and we enjoyed good luck all the way. I used the same ceremony recently to change the name of my newly acquired Santana 22 from Zephyr to Tagati, a Zulu word that means "magic," or "bewitched." We're hoping she'll sail like a witch when I finally get her in the water this summer after an extensive refit.
 I'll give you the exact wording of Vigor's denaming ceremony, but first you must remove all physical traces of the boat's old name. Take the old log book ashore, along with any other papers that bear the old name. Check for offending books and charts with the name inscribed. Be ruthless. Sand away the old name from the lifebuoys, transom, top-side, dinghy, and oars. Yes, sand it away. Painting over is not good enough. You're dealing with gods here, you understand, not mere dumb mortals. If the old name is carved or etched, try to remove it or, at the very minimum, fill it with putty and then paint over. And don't place the new name anywhere on the boat before the denaming ceremony is carried out. That's just tempting fate.
 How you conduct the ceremony depends entirely on you. If you're the theatrical type, and enjoy appearing in public in your yacht club blazer and skipper's cap, you can read it with flair on the foredeck before a gathering of distinguished guests. But if you find this whole business faintly silly and embarrassing, and only go along with it because you're scared to death of what might happen if you don't, you can skulk down below and mumble it on your own. That's perfectly okay. The main thing is that you carry it out. The words must be spoken.
 I compromised by sitting in Tagati's cockpit with the written-out ceremony folded into a newspaper, so that any passerby would think I was just reading the news to my wife, sitting opposite. Enough people think I'm nuts already. Even my wife has doubts. The last part of the ceremony, the libation, must be performed at the bow, just as it is in a naming ceremony. There are two things to watch out for here. Don't use cheap-cheap champagne, and don't try to keep any for yourself. Buy a second bottle if you want some. Use a brew that's reasonably expensive, based on your ability to pay, and pour the whole lot on the boat. One of the things the gods of the sea despise most is meanness, so don't try to do this bit on the cheap.
 What sort of time period should elapse between this denaming ceremony and a new naming ceremony? There's no fixed time. You can do the renaming right after the denaming, if you want, but I personally would prefer to wait at least 24 hours to give any lingering demons a chance to clear out. (Scroll down for the wording of the ceremony.)
 Afterwards
 
 Now you can pop the cork, shake the bottle and spray the whole of the contents on the bow. When that's done, you can quietly go below and enjoy the other bottle yourself. Incidentally, I had word from a friend last month that the Florida yachtsman I mentioned earlier had lost his latest boat, a 22-foot trailer-sailer. Sailed her into an overhead power line. Fried her. She burned to the waterline. Bad luck? Not exactly. He and his crew escaped unhurt. He was just very careless. He renamed her, as usual, without bothering to perform Vigor's famous interdenominational denaming ceremony. And this time, at long last, he got what he deserved.
 
 Vigor's Denaming Ceremony  
 "In the name of all who have sailed aboard this ship in the past, and in the name of all who may sail aboard her in the future, we invoke the ancient gods of the wind and the sea to favor us with their blessing today.
 "Mighty Neptune, king of all that moves in or on the waves; and mighty Aeolus (pronounced EE-oh-lus), guardian of the winds and all that blows before them:
 "We offer you our thanks for the protection you have afforded this vessel in the past. We voice our gratitude that she has always found shelter from tempest and storm and enjoyed safe passage to port.
 "Now, wherefore, we submit this supplication, that the name whereby this vessel has hitherto been known (_____), be struck and removed from your records.
 "Further, we ask that when she is again presented for blessing with another name, she shall be recognized and shall be accorded once again the selfsame privileges she previously enjoyed.
 "In return for which, we rededicate this vessel to your domain in full knowledge that she shall be subject as always to the immutable laws of the gods of the wind and the sea.
 "In consequence whereof, and in good faith, we seal this pact with a libation offered according to the hallowed ritual of the sea."  
 
 CLICK HERE for Printable Page of Vigor's Denaming Ceremony Christening Ceremony  
 After a boat is denamed, you simply need to rename it using the traditional christening ceremony, preferably with Queen Elizabeth breaking a bottle of champagne on the bow, and saying the words:
 "I name this ship ___________ and may she bring fair winds and good fortune to all who sail on her."
 
 
 
 John Vigor, an Oak Harbor resident, is a boating writer and editor. He is the author of The Practical Mariner's Book of Knowledge (International Marine) and Danger, Dolphins, and Ginger Beer (Simon and Schuster) a sailing adventure novel for 8 to 12 year-olds.  
 
 
 ...return to 48┬░ North title page. 48north.com

7917
Main Message Board / More
« on: June 05, 2001, 11:17:20 AM »
Frank,  It also occurred to me that you also need to put sealant in the hole where the bolt passes through the bottom of the clutch.  This will keep water from getting from the base of the clutch down underneath it.  Stu

7918
Main Message Board / Cltuch Bedding
« on: June 04, 2001, 07:54:10 PM »
Frank
 
 If I understand your problem, the front of the clutch is not flat on the bottom.  It has a little protrusion.  Given that, there should still be no reason you cannot countersink the hole for those locations, so the protrusion fits down into the countersunk portion of the hole in the deck.  As previously noted by a respondent, you'll just need to seal the entire hole.  If you want more security, oversise the hole, expoxy the sides of the hole that show wood,(or fill it all in and redrill), then use the sealant.  Be sure to let the sealant dry a day or so before doing the final tightening.  Tighten only the nuts from below, don't turn the screws, which would break the seal.
 
 Stu

7919
Main Message Board / Bleeding Air
« on: June 04, 2001, 07:48:08 PM »
See FAQs,  Engine Air lock.  April May 2000.  And many other articles.

7920
Main Message Board / Pulpits
« on: June 03, 2001, 11:09:43 AM »
I local friend recently had the same problem, and used a local metal fabrication shop.  He was pleased with the results and it was somewhat less expensive.  Shop around.

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