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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: 1 ... 526 527 [528] 529 530 ... 536
7906
Main Message Board / Serial Number Location
« on: April 27, 2002, 06:47:01 PM »
It's just aft of the thermostat housing, in the forward section of the engine where you add oil.  It is a label that has the model number and serial number.

7907
Main Message Board / ? Engine
« on: April 26, 2002, 10:55:43 AM »
Our #224 has the M-25.  Steve's right:  if you have the 2 inch heat exchanger, it's an M-25.  You may have the newer alternator bracket since many folks did that necessary mod.

7908
Main Message Board / Coolant "Search"
« on: April 27, 2002, 09:17:58 AM »
Fulvio
 
 Use the Message Board SEARCH engine.  Type in coolant.  21 hits.  October 30, 2001 from Ron Hill.
 
 Stu

7909
Main Message Board / Fresh Water Pump
« on: April 25, 2002, 11:40:48 AM »
Bernd,
 
 Another consideration is belt tension.  I believe it was covered exhaustively in the Tech Notes.  Too tight can end up frying the pump.
 
 Stu

7910
Main Message Board / Engine Info
« on: April 26, 2002, 10:54:08 AM »
Jim
 
 Try this source.
 
 
 Universal

7911
Main Message Board / Insurance NOT!
« on: April 20, 2002, 09:57:22 AM »
OK, folks, so how does one get around this and obtain necessary coverage for the very issues that were raised?  Roc, after reading the fine print, what did you do?

7912
Main Message Board / New Propane Tank
« on: April 14, 2002, 08:47:12 AM »
Steve
 
 Yes, we have.  Please check out Projects on the website, and also a search in this Message Board.  The Projects even has pictures from Ron Hill's work.

7913
Main Message Board / Solid Vang
« on: April 14, 2002, 08:47:17 PM »
Ken
 
 Easiest way to get a direct answer would be to call Garhauer directly.  Other answers about rigging the solid vang have appeared in this Message Board, but are more related to boom bails and mainsheet reaving to allow the vang and mainsheet to set right, ususally for older MK I boats who have replaced the old vangs with the new solid ones.

7914
Main Message Board / Model
« on: April 14, 2002, 05:19:04 PM »
Aaron
 
 Sounds fascinating.  A couple of sources come to mind:  1)  the sections and plans in the brochures; 2)  someone was doing half hull models a few years ago, may still be in the website somewhere, but if not, there may be similar things in other Catalina websites; 3) the Factory - call Gerry Douglas and see if he will help.
 
 Good luck, looking forward to seeing your work.
 
 Stu

7915
Main Message Board / Dry Bilge
« on: April 07, 2002, 07:03:39 AM »
Alan & Vicky
 
 Yes, there is such a thing as a dry bilge, but I'll be danged if I can get there myself! (yet)
 
 Couple of other places to look: (if not for you, then others)
 
 1.  Exhaust hose outlet at transom - we found the end of the hose to be worn at the thru hull.  Since we'd planned to replace the entire hose length from the muffler to the transom someday soon anyway, I just cut a few inches off the end and reconnected it to the thru hull with new hose clamps.
 
 2.  Connections to muffler from exhaust hose to transom and from engine to muffler:  I just purchased a new hump hose from Catalina ($38.88 + shipping).  There is a definite leak from the engine exhaust connection at the muffler, simply  because the old hose is so darn stiff.  Even new hose is stiff.  That's why they cam up with the hump hose.  We may have to rebuild the muffler entry connection with Marine Tex, but I know there's water coming in from that connection.
 
 3.  Head outlet thru hull:  We had to replace the 1 1/2 inch marelon valve last June, it was leaking.
 
 4.   Stuffing box:  installed dripless packing a few years ago.  Much cheaper than PSS or other mechanical seals, and, per Ron Hill, I sleep a lot more soundly knowing there's one less mechanical gnome to grow glitches.  Had to redo the packing after the last haulout (which took a few weeks on the hard) since the packing dried out.  Don't forget to check the stuffing box after every haulout.
 
 
 5.  Stanchion bases & Chainplates:  The stanchions may feel good but especially the ones with the vent hoses (starboard - water tank, and port - head vent,  amidships) are always suspect, also with aboat of your "vintage."  The midships ones are the ones that visitors tend to grab when they come aboard.  A recent Mainsheet had an idea for tying a piece of line on the after lower shroud to use to pull the boat over to the dock in lieu of hauling on the stanchions.  If you don't like the look of a line hanging there, just step on the dockline to pull the boat over to the dock.  We've been rebedding the stanchions one at a time during recent visits.  Chainplates were all done last year.  Seems to me that even if they ALL were leaking, it wouldn't account for the quantity of water you've described.
 
 This post has become the TOP 10 (or 20) BEST BILGEWATER LIST.  Great ideas.  Keep 'em coming. :cool:
 
 Stu

7916
Main Message Board / Fuel Gauges again
« on: January 20, 2002, 09:43:04 AM »
Try the search in the Message Board, type in fuel, go to May 22, 2001, question by BandG, many answers are there.

7917
Main Message Board / Flush Huh?
« on: April 07, 2002, 09:35:16 PM »
Charlie
 
 Chris is right.  There is a basic difference between raw water cooled and fresh water cooled engines.
 
 Raw water cooled engines use the "sea around us" to cool directly, with no heat exchanger.  So, if you're in salt water, the salt water is fed through the engine block.  That's bad news, hence, the idea for using a fresh water flush, kinda like an outboard engine.
 
 Our C34 engines are fresh water cooled, via the heat exchanger.  No nasty salt water gets into the engine itself, so no fresh water flush is ever necessary.
 
 Do, however, check your zinc on the heat exchanger, and replace it regularly.
 
 That's also why this message board beats Sailnet hands down! :D

7918
Main Message Board / Cetol Types
« on: April 08, 2002, 08:04:05 AM »
Mark
 
 The Message Board search under the subject "Exterior Teak" is where the two types of cetol are described.

7919
Main Message Board / Cetol Additives
« on: April 07, 2002, 09:45:32 PM »
Mark
 
 This is a new one.  Hadn't heard about adding anything to cetol. Where did you "hear it?"
 
 I assume you've already done the searches on both the C34 Message Board and the C34 website on "cetol."  Lots of ideas already posted.
 
 Before you mix anything else with the cetol, (or anything else for that matter) it would be reasonable to check with the manufacture(s) to find out if it will work.  As far as I know, Cetol only has two finishes, see previous posts via the search engine(s).
 
 One of the major advantages of cetol over varnish is that you can "paint" right over it.  This assumes that there're no "black" spots underneath the existing coats, which would mean that the "seal" is gone.  If so, just sand down that area, and "paint" over it with new cetol.

7920
Main Message Board / Alternatives to Bottom Paint
« on: March 29, 2002, 05:36:48 PM »
Peter and Susan
 
 You bring back old memories.  When we had our C22 on a lake about three hours north of here for summer seasons, we NEVER even bothered to use bottom paint!  The boat was trailer sailed during the winter months on San Francisco Bay, but kept in the water at the lake all summer.  At the end of the season, we'd bring the retractable keeled boat to a place called Bottom Scrub.  They had this nifty "underwater car wash" that would scrub all the crud off the bottom, and we'd trailer home clean as a whistle.
 
 Two full keel boats later that isn't so helpful!
 
 Interestingly enough, there is a spring fitting out article in the April issue of Cruising World magazine, that addresses your question.  
 
 They say in the article's sidebar: "Homegrown additives such as spices and antibiotics may actually have the opposite effect from that which is intended.  These additives may upset the paint's binder balance or impair the release of biocides.  Paint manufacturers and chemists spend lots of time and money creating effective antifoulants.  There's a good chance that they tested Jimbo's Red Hot Cajun Chili Pepper Sauce and found that most bottom critters don't mind the taste."
 
 While this is applicable to antifouling paint, it seems to me that if your friend's idea was so great, we should be seeing housepainters roaming our docks in search of business.  Hasn't happened yet.
 
 I do like the pink idea.  If you combine that with Ron's suggestion for using different colors to know when what you have is about to vanish, you could start a new trend.
 
 Basic moral is use the stuff that works.  I have had good experience with Compound X, which seemed to have extended the life of a one and a half bottom coat for six months.

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