Messages

"Magic" is a great answer -- quit while you're ahead!   

It sounds like the fuel lines from the Racor to the injectors have remained full and you just haven't, for some reason or other, gotten any air into the system.  That happened to me one time, and I wish it would again!

Think of the fuel lines as a FULL cup or glass with the fuel filter sitting on the top of the lip of the cup:  you're replacing the fuel filter, which is at the top -- this isn't removing any fluid from down below (in the glass).  If you fill the Racor filter by gravity from the tank (opening the vent on the Racor housing) or by pouring diesel into the bowl, you may not get any air into the system and never have to bleed at the secondary filter.

Good work!  Actually I think you've found the trick:  I don't fill the bowl, I use the electric pump to do that, so I'm actually introducing air into the system.  I'll try your way the next time, should save a lot of work.

Dave Sanner, our webmaster, has updated the manuals section with new information for the Mark II and the engine.

See: http://www.c34.org/manuals/index.htm

Stephen

Steve Hansen said in the related post that he bought his at Ace Hardware.  Don't they have hardware stores in Texas?   

Try this:  http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-transom-bar.html

Aslo, from Captain Al's homepage:  http://www.c34.org/projects/kindred-spirit/ladder_rungs.html

Bill

I just copied "Snap On Tools" from Ron's earlier post, pasted it on to my browser's address bar, hit enter,  and the computer found their website.  With the specs on the socket and the appurtenances, it appears that this should be an easy find for you.  Type in deep socket in their search bar and go.

My understanding is that Steve and Nancy are either traveling and/or can't or don't access this site daily.

Four bucks or so is a small price to pay for regular zinc replacement.  I don't find it hard at all.  I made a note with a sharpie on the top of the HX that says: "11/16" -- which makes it easy to grab the right wrench every time.  I do it every three months with a written reminder on my engine maintenance log, and sometimes can replace the old one because it hasn't deteriorated much.  I use the boat at least once a week, so the engine hours are up there.  I find the access easy over the top and can reach in with one arm pretty easily (although this is an M25 which has more room, however, I did install a larger three inch HX a few years ago).  I was also doing some wiring below the aft cabin berth last week and could easily reach the zinc from there.  Call me a traditionalist, but with the relatively low cost and high benefit ratio, why mess around? (I can't comment on the electrolytic part of your post, John.)

Why leave a boat key on the boat at all?  Not that we live in such a bad neighborhood, but given the flimsy hasps on the companionway, leaving a key that can easily start the boat on board is like the earlier post about leaving your car keys out in plain sight.  We keep our boat keys on the same separate key chain with float as the access key to the marina gate.  Sure, a "qualified" boat thief could get the boat going anyway, but why make it any easier?

Galley door from Projects:  http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-aquavite.html

Switch the hinges to the side and it opens like a door!

[for sure]

Rick

No problems with removal re: engine.  It's just another recirculating loop - those with heaters shouldn't depend on the heater picking off engine heat -- sooner or later it gets the water hot, so then where  do you go?

Anyway, either remove the lines or cap them. 

I've never heard of anyone removing the heater, since most tend to use it -- their choice -- when available.  Most "complain" about how long it takes to get water hot, not whether the heater is there or not.

You should consider, however, resale value.  Unless this is your for sure LAST boat, removing the heater could be a downside when coming to sell the boat.  After all, the head is pretty well laid out and even though we like to anchor out, either when after a motor, or just at a marina, it is great to have hot water and a shower.

Your boat, your choice.

A search on Teleflex will give you some ideas.  Also try searching on calibration. 

The check:

Engine in neutral, what's that max rpm?  Engine in forward, what's the max rpm holding the throttle wide open (it will "slouch" back to a lower rpm when you let go of the throttle unless you've really tightened up the friction bolt).

It's also tied to the alternator.

It's really all relative.

A "search" on the word "smell" turned up this further reference:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=850.0

FOR YOUR SAFETY, please immediately disconnect and disinfect the connection you made between your fresh water system and your head.

The check valve WILL NOT stop contamination from bacteria from traveling from the head TO the fresh water, regardless of which direction you may think the water is traveling.

I urge you to buy and read Peggie Hall's book on marine sanitation.  See the chandlery at www.catalinaowners.com.

I understand this is a new boat, and there has been little discussion recently of this issue on this forum, but mixing fresh and head water systems is simply a NO-NO from a sanitary perspective.

To avoid the "dreaded" smell, you could use either a fresh water flush from a separate bottle, use the head "wand" for your last flush, or T into the sink drain.  Or just pump a few times once onboard, because all you're moving is the few gallons (or less) in the hose between the head and the head pump.  Never mix fresh and head water unless you have a dedicated tank for the head, and I have absolutely NO idea why anyone would waste that kinda fresh water to get rid of a small stink that goes away quickly (my personal perspective).

Sorry for the imperative part of this message, but we'd like to keep you healthy.  You have a great deal of cleaning up to do, and please assure yourself that you do that properly.

Sometimes it's easier to ask the questions first.

(This assumes that you have a manual head or an electric head that uses, normally, sea water, rather than a Lectra-San.  The Lectra-San need salt water to work, and if changed to a fresh water tank for supply would need the additional salt crystals added.)

Some examples may be found at:  http://www.c34.org/voyages/index.html, "Voyages."  May not cover Atlantic crossings, but does cover open ocean trips.

We've had success with a spray can of white from Ace hardware.

Jerry

Don't know if you've seen this one:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1943.0