Messages

...and nothing, no crank, just silence. 

On our M25 engines there was/is an inline fuse between the start button in the cockpit panel and the engine.  Details in the Critical Upgrades sticky topic.

Breather Hose 101 (w/ K&N Filter Pictures from Rick Allen)

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8875.msg63915.html#msg63915

and Noah's:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8858.msg64297.html#msg64297

and Kloeber's PDF and wiki link:  https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8136.0.html

Then I guess you saw this one, too:
Alternator Regulators - The Differences between ARS-5 and MC-614 Units (scroll UP to see reply #5)
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=1103132


As far as wiring your AO before you go to the house bank, you have two options:
1.  As you said to the C post
2.  To the house bank post on the switch

The advantage of #2 is that it IS essentially wiring it to your house bank, because it's just the other end of the same wire!  The other advantage is that you don't have to remember to switch the battery switch once you stop motoring.  This assumes your "other" bank is a reserve bank and you start your engine with the house bank.  In any event, your "start" battery rarely needs more charge because you have a ton of starts available in it even without recharging.

Good move.  Hope you saw this one:
Alternator Regulator Wiring Diagrams - all three http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4548.0.html

Hope it helps, good luck.

The hose from the bottom of my drain pan is threaded because it is connected to a hook that holds it up on the side of the engine compartment.  I figured out the threads and attached a matched threaded fitting to the end of the hose on a Par hand pump, so I can easily attach the two hoses without spillage.  I no longer have to use the dipstick.  (I did this in 1999.)  Why use the dipstick when you have that comparatively huge hose right there to put to good effect.

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I have photos, but can't figure out how to attach them.

Posting and RESIZING Photos 101  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3701.0.html

["S" wire to the starter]

Hi Stu,

I just think you may have missed what I said in my post.  Your head is wrapped around GPs because it's "a relay."  Just forget about the GPs, it had nothing to do w/ them. 
This is all about the (yellow/red) "S" wire to the starter (see his pics.)

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Thx, Ken, I thought you were replying to my last post, not to the OP.  All clear now.

Once installed, run the GPs for only 10-12 seconds

Stu, it is not a preheat solenoid/relay.

Installing that relay was as stupid a "fix" as it would be to leave an ammeter in the panel and run heavy cable up and back to overcome the voltage loss.  No matter what the life of the relay is, it does not belong there rather than fixing the harness.

My harness was already "fixed," the ammeter was gone and replaced with a voltmeter sand the Gummy Bear trailer plugs were gone, too, when I bought my then 12 year old boat in 1998.

The wiring harness upgrade and the GP solenoid are, at least to me, two separate issues.  The harness should be done, as in it has not be done (although the boat will still work without it, but the reasons it's necessary are all in Gerry's article in the wiki).  The GP solenoid is optional and is independent from the harness Gummy Bear/ammeter issue.

What "is not a preheat solenoid/relay?"  Honest question, I don't understand what you're saying here, and I know you're not calling me stupid. 

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What the PO has done is introduced an unnecessary component into the system and thus another failure point that will stop you dead if it fails.  You should trash it and run a yellow #10 "S" wire (yellow, run a red sharpie down it) to replace the OEM #16 gauge "S" wire.
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/7401

This is one of your OPTIONS (i.e., choices).

I installed a solenoid on my M25 about 25 years ago.  It's one of those big old clunky Ford metal cylindrical ones.  Still working; never had to use the backup one I have on board  .

I drew the wiring diagram at the end of Capt. Al's superb article and keep that on the boat, too.  So if the solenoid fails , I either replace it with the backup or just wire it out and go back to the way it was (until I do the replacement).

I don't know what the longevity of these newer solid state puppies are compared to my old banger, but they sure look just as easy to have a backup on board as well as a wiring diagram.

As you know, this solenoid turns the glow plug wire from the cockpit panel to the engine FROM a power wire TO a signal wire.

My wiring diagram is here:  https://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid

Once installed, run the GPs for only 10-12 seconds because they are 10+V and the voltage will be higher since the solenoid eliminates the long undersized wire run's voltage drop.  This has been written up here many times before, I think it's a very good thing to have.

Guys : I NEVER turn OFF the water pressure switch and I've NEVER heard the pump kick in when I turn on the battery selector switch ON!! That's over MANY years!!   

A thought

I got into the habits of:

1.  Using the hot water faucet even when there isn't any hot water because it keeps moving water through the heater

2.  Turning off the water pressure switch AND opening the hot faucet to relieve pressure in the system.  My "logic" is - why keep the system (hoses and clamps) under pressure when not necessary. 

Some years ago I had that dreaded "pump burps every minute or so" sound.  I traced it to a cracked hose way back under the engine where the hoses ran to the head sink.  I spent a few days replacing all the hoses and clamps.

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As the old saying in racing goes "It costs money to run up front".

I may be an outlier when it comes to that oft-repeated phrase.  My PO had not bought the stock Catalina sails in 1986, but chose to go with a local loft, but still dacron.  Back in that time the stock Catalina sails were not as good as they became later with Ullman.

I started racing in Fleet 1 in San Francisco in 1999.  Those skippers had been racing since 1987 when the nucleus of the fleet was formed because the local Catalina dealers promoted the then-brand new Catalina 34, which was selling like hotcakes at IHOP!   

Those skippers created a very fair handicap rating system which evolved over the years into a Racing Division and a Cruising Division, a luxury found nowhere else for Catalina 34s.  This was partly because of sheer quantity of our one-design fleet, and also due to the inherent fairness of the skippers who formed the racing committee.  The split into divisions occurred mid-way through my racing "career," in the early 2000s, around 2004 or 5.

So I was racing with only a working jib and 1986 sails from 1999 through 2008.  I ended up going from the "Back of the Pack" (in a story entitled just that which I wrote for Mainsheet) to success in 2006 and the next few years.

It doesn't always take mega-bucks to race and be successful.  Knowing the course(s), the racing rules and having good consistent crew are also critical components.  Recognizing the Corinthian Spirit of the Fleet 1 skippers remains one of the key factors of my 25 year love affair with our Catalina 34. 

Point being that while new good-to-great sails sure would help they should not be considered an expensive "necessity" for any C34 skipper interested in getting into racing.

Tim, the "location" of the conduit can be determined by the existing rivets on the mast.  IIRC, it's not right at the front but somewhat offset.

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So unless you prefer to do burn rate calculations probably best to keep a sharp eye on the gauge should you find yourself at the bottom side of the gauge.

Fuel consumption rates have been detailed for our engines since 1987.  My M25 gets 0.5 gph, M35 use 1.0 gph.

You do NOT need to do your own calcs, others, many others, have done the work for you.  Really.  Please do so if you like, it's not hard to do, you simply have to keep track of hours between refills and gallons upon refills. 

Fuel consumption is an important thing to know, gauge working or not.  I find it's great to know how much you expect to need to refill to avoid spilling fuel all over the boat and into the water, because marine hoses are not like the ones at your gas station for your car, right?

Fuel Log 101

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3841.msg21571.html#msg21571

If you can't get the acorn nuts off, get a "nut splitter."  I used one to get the acorn nuts off my handrails inside the boat.

Chainplate Rebedding 101 - with Bed It with Butyl from Maine Sail

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7265.msg49430.html#msg49430