Messages

Here's mine.  Inside the pushpit, you'd have to drill a hole in your perch seat.

Ryan, you'll most likely find a greater audience for your question at www.cruisersforum.com.

Good luck, hope you have a great trip.

Not necessarily true, Ron.  When my 1986 key switch died a few years ago, I replaced it with an On/Off, because I have a separate glow plug button.  The switch that was there was three position but only one post in the back was wired and that was from the factory.  Obviously Mark IIs are different.

[WITHOUT replacing the wiring itself]

Okay...
First off, I understand the critical need to replace the harness. I get it and it needs to be done on my boat. Gonna do it on my boat, but where in creation can you get the dang thing? Catalina Direct claims they can't get it because of supply chain issues. (Really??? I thought we were past that crap these days.) They've yet to return my call. Neither has the part dept. at Catalina. And is Seaward even in business anymore? I sure can't find them on the web (perhaps that is the supply chain issue). So, is it even available? I was also wanting to replace the entire panel. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Kirk

Kirk,

As you know, the Critical Upgrades topic has many posts about the harness.  One you may have read, Reply #32 on page 3 includes this:

1. The "Euro" terminal strip provided by Seaward when you buy the harness. The harness is the wiring itself. The strips are there to replace the stupid trailer connectors. You can replace the connectors WITHOUT replacing the wiring itself (the "harness"). Many have done so.

The point being that in many, if not most, cases, the wires are just fine, it is the trailer connectors at both ends that must be replaced.

Since you are into this subject, consider doing the connectors now and dealing with the wires when you can get them.  And maybe once you do the connectors you'll find the wires are just fine.  Mine are and I have a 1986 boat.

Good luck.

I did read the article. Sounds like it's a 2 person job. As far as I can tell, one person holds a wrench on the bottom nut. The wrench is on the port side, and then second person tries to budge the wrench with a downward hammer blow / 2nd wrench . Does that sound right? Also I have only 12 point box wrenches, is that going to be a problem?

I think you understand it quite well.  It worked for me.  IIRC mine was 12 point, too, but if you're concerned it wouldn't cost too much to get one 6 point for just this job, it'd be worth the small expense.

The bottom nut on the exhaust  flange is also very hard to access and it's not budging despite PB Blaster.

Did you read the link in my reply #1?

Why do you think you need to replace either of the chainplates or the tie rods?

I've seen mention of silicone on the forums, but after removing a bunch from my leaking chainplates I don't want the stuff anywhere near my boat...

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Phil,

"...anywhere near my boat..." is a wise approach re: silicone, EXCEPT it is the ONLY material recommended for the Beckson ports most likely in your cockpit.  Otherwise, you're right because silicone "caulk" for chainplates is the wrong material.  what should be used is butyl tape, specifically Bed It with Butyl from Maine Sail ONLY - not all butyl tape is made the same.  The 101 Topics has my chainplate rebedding article.

As for the mast boot, Noah's right.  And the other ideas are excellent, too.  I took an idea I found here years ago that worked: stuffed a bunch of large rope around the mast into the partners and  siliconed around the edges.  It worked, too, in addition to these ideas.  I think the silicone tape makes the best one.  Rescue tape could work maybe even better.

John : If the mast is in column (straight) and NOT leading to one side or the other - does that 1/4" make any difference ????????   

A thought

Well, yes, Ron, it very well should.  IIRC, inb the inside, the "top" of the chainplate should be nestled against the "bottom" of the deck above.  If the exterior end of the plate is lower than it should be, it means the tops of the fitting that goes through the deck are not up to the deck below.

This is a picture of the chainplate removed still at the end of the shaft below.

Have you checked down below?  Do you know how they work?  They are attached by long shafts with nuts inside the seat back cushion compartment.  It could very well be that the PO or someone didn't adjust them properly from below.  All the "plates" ARE the same.

Ken, it's a 3/8" npt. With Oberdorfer cast into the cover like Ron described, maybe it is the original from 1987?

The faceplates with Oberdorfer cast onto the covers is the older very THICK faceplate.  I have one.  The newer faceplates are thinner material and are designed to be reversible.  I found out last year that the even newer thin faceplates have holes that are spaced differently than the older pumps and just different enough that they do not work on the older pumps.  I had to have my old faceplate (inside, of course) refaced at a machine shop.  I wrote a tech note about it (not online yet) within the past year, check your magazine hard copies or look at mainsheet.net with the password key noted in the 101 Topics.

My experience is that DEVCON is far superior to JBWeld.  I wrote it up in a repair of my raw water pump studs in a tech note in 2017 or 18

If you haven't seen this, the guts should be the same, good luck.

Oberdorfer Pump Rebuild 101 - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html [Link added to main page of C34 Tech wiki]

It does appear your nipple failed.

Here are some Tips & Tricks for riser replacement; the article also notes previous replacement tech notes.


February 2016 Vol 34 #1

    Muffler & Exhaust Riser Replacement    (HTML) (PDF)

https://c34.org/muffler-exhaust-riser-replacement-2015/

Stu, what prompted you to rebuild your pump? What were the symptoms showing that the pump needed a rebuild? Leaks? Engine running hot?

I did NOT write that, please look again, I posted it but Ron Hill wrote it.

I did post my rebuild of my Oberdorfer, look in the 101 Topics for the link.

One rebuilds a pump when it starts leaking through the weep holes.