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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 548
46
Main Message Board / Re: Raw water leak behind raw water pump
« on: May 07, 2019, 11:19:15 PM »
Ken,

You wrote:  "...use the Sherwood round gasket rather than the Westerbeke (or better, Kubota) "square" gasket."

This is my Kubota square gasket.  Do you have a picture of the round gasket you mentioned? 

I think I understand your concept.  I'm getting rather good at taking the pump off!  :D  Would trimming some of the square gasket off help do you think?

47
Main Message Board / Re: Raw water leak behind raw water pump
« on: May 07, 2019, 10:33:16 PM »
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I'm looking for a material that could be used as a temporary repair until the mechanic can come out and do the repair properly.

Vic,

Since I posted earlier today, I've been thinking more about this (while I was cleaning my cockpit!).  :D

Ken's right that pictures would help us to help you.  He also describes the studs on the gear cover quite well.

But before you jump to the conclusion that you need a new gear cover, please know that they are almost impossible to find, because so many M25 engines (not M25XPs that came with the new alternator bracket) had their gear case covers clobbered by failing alternator brackets on the M25 engines, that they literally ran out of gear case covers.

I wrote to a number of friends about my issue early last year, including Ken.  Ken said pretty much the same to thing me that he did for you here.  Others had other suggestions.

I have, so far, chosen to NOT go immediately to the replacement cover.  Why?  'Cuz I don't think I can personally physically do it, having carefully investigated the work involved.  I'm sure, for example, that I would be able to get 11 of the 12 bolts out but that last one won't want to come out and I'm not enough of a mechanic to figure out how to do it when, not if, that happens.  And my bolts, all of them, have been there for 32 years.  Some of them I'd painted over years and years ago, which doesn't bode well for any sort of easy removal.  The closest mechanic to me who I know and trust is a three hour motor to get to his yard, and my engine still works.  They don't do house calls here.  :D  Wouldn't make sense for me to do it in my own slip and get hung up there, would it?

I'm sure I could deal with most of the ancillary issues like dropping the alternator (that I could do in my sleep), but the engine stop lever part on the starboard side gives me great pause.  I simply don't want to mess with that, having researched the brain salad surgery required for the little spring inside that housing.

So I opted, after careful reflection, to attempt to rebuild the failed part of the gear case cover casting (it's aluminum).

Where I am now is in the "testing period" of my third repair done in November, the JBWeld worked to build it up, but wasn't strong enough to hold the new stud in what I call the September second try, so this third repair is the first time using the Devcon as the glue. 

The first repair attempt in March was stupidity on my part by not recognizing the extent of the decomposition of the casting shown in my first picture.  I just took the pump off and rebuilt the seals, not looking closely enough at the pictures I myself had taken in March.  In September's second repair attempt I tried JBWeld as the glue and it failed in 20 hours, never having held the new stud in firmly. 

I've now got about 22 hours on the latest Devcon November third repair and am keeping an eagle eye on the situation.  I plan on local cruises in the near future to use the engine, see what happens and not be far from home if it doesn't hold.  It leaks a little oil when it fails, but a little oil makes a BIG f-ing mess.

Are you sure your pump seals are working?  Any evidence of water seepage out the weep holes that could have zapped your stud and nut?

As for the ? in what I quoted above:  No, I can't think of any "material" that you could use for any temporary repair if the threads on the stud are gone. 

If your engine still works and "all" you've got is a rusted nut on a failing stud, using the engine should be fine but with my experience in hand now, just be aware that you may see an oil leak if the failure allows the pump to loosen up on that one quarter of its four stud support. 

You didn't say which stud & nut failed.  Was it one of the lower two?

And before you "trust" your mechanic, you should talk to him in great detail about what he plans to do before you have him even touch your engine.  Let us know what he suggests.

In my case, I experienced an oil leak, so the very first thing I did was remove the pump, mistakenly thinking it was the pump oil seal.  It wasn't, but I'd had 800 hours since the last seal replacement and the one before that lasted 1300 hours.  I was thinking pump seals when I should have been looking at the decomposition as I described above.

What I think happened was that the fourth stud's gear case cover metal disappearance allowed just enough space to grow between the gear case flange and the pump base to let the oil inside drip down.   That pump needs the four bolts to keep all of the faces together.

Also, just for the record, and in anticipation of respondents suggesting that water through the weep hole could have been a cause in my problem, I did NOT have water seeping out of the pump weep hole, so the failure on my engine wasn't from neglect of the pump dripping water on the stud and nut.  The nut that was there was just fine, but the metal holding the stud in underneath the pump base and in the engine case cover flange simply just disappeared!

It was an interesting way of getting a stud out of a Kubota engine.  All done without a propane torch!  :D

I'll be interested in any and all other observations about this, and certainly from you about what you learn about your situation.

I wish you the best of luck.  What I've found in this and other boating situations is don't rush into anything.  Analyze, think, talk to trusted friends, trust your mechanic only after you talk to him and check his credentials carefully unless you know and trust him already.

It just occurred to me that I don't know if there is any forum like this for Universal M25 Series engines.  Gee, wouldn't that be helpful?  :cry4`

Please keep us posted.

48
Main Message Board / Prospective Owner Questions
« on: May 07, 2019, 09:17:18 PM »
This is from George who we are in the process of signing up to the forum.  Due to a glitch which could be software or at my end between my ears (!  :shock:), I offered to post his questions for him until he gets "in."  He can, of ccourse, read the forum, just can't post.

Here's his note to me:

Thank you Stu Jackson. Here us what I have, I. Looking at a 1987 Catalina 34, it looks to be in exallent condition. Even though I'm not a sailor yet I have been a heavy equipment repair contractor for 30 years. Still there is nothing better then asking experts.
  Our kids are grown and my budget for a boat is 40,000.00. This Catilina I think they will accept 32,000, of course i will get a survey. Here is my biggest question: on my budget and being 6'4" and doing 80% coastal cruising and some local islands 150 miles from shore and maybe some cruising down to Mexico is this a good boat for us. Again the boat looks excellent in every way, it comes with an inflatable in good condition with a 3 hp motor but the boat has original instruments, no GPS and no radar. My experience is 16 foot sailboat rentals quite often when young and a collage summer sailing class 10 years ago on an island packet. I love the looks the interior looks amazing but I must admit my budget is keeping out of a blue water boat accept for real fixer uppers. One day I would love to cross an ocean. I feel like a little boy with a pipe dream. Thank you Stu.
  George from southern California.

49
Main Message Board / Re: Raw water leak behind raw water pump
« on: May 07, 2019, 10:28:35 AM »
Vic,

I had a similar issue last year.  This is from March 2018 when I took the pump off.  I've since replaced the stud from a local Kubota tractor dealer.  I built up the area with JBWeld and "glued in" a new stud with Devcon.  I have 20 hours on the engine since last November.  There's a long, long story about all this coming soon to a Tech Note near you!  :D  I won't finish writing it until I'm sure that the repair is working, since there were a LOT of interim steps that I won't bore you with here.

I started by removing the pump and seeing what was there, or in my case NOT there.

Good luck. 

50
Main Message Board / Re: M25 Coolant Hose Elbows
« on: May 06, 2019, 05:37:36 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks for the picture validation of using soldered copper fittings. I've been using a 90 degree fitting since installing the M25 about 4 years ago. It's worked flawlessly but soldered joints have worried me so I thought I'd try to locate a brass 90 degree elbow with 7/8" barbs. No luck so far. I will go back with what I have and new hoses if I can't find the elbow. Thanks again!
Long turn isn't critical, so you can make one from two short lengths of 3/4 tubing sweated in a 90 ell.  Or from two 45 elbows to make a longer turn.  If you want to double clamp, make the surface as long as you want with longer tubing off the elbow(s.)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,20693,bypass+hose,2155

James,

I edited your post to clarify the quote and your response.

Brass is not a suitable material for that application, or any on a boat for that matter.

Good thing you didn't.  :D

51
Main Message Board / Re: Summer 2019 Mainsheet: remote oil filter
« on: May 06, 2019, 11:01:39 AM »
Here's what Les wrote to me:

I bought a billet Al off eBay for ~$15-20 usd.  The hose & fittings were $80.  I’ve always spilled some oil when changing the filter they must be better than I am.  I think my alternator is running cooler, I clipped the zip ties that kept the doses from rubbing on the filter.  I was able to mount a oil temp sensor away from vibration, those trying to add oil pressure in addition to switch now have a good location rather than risking 1/8” plumbing to extend and tee the switch location.   I also got ~4-5 seconds of clatter after a oil change so something caused low oil pressure at first startup. 

These kits are used on high end auto builds and race cars, there is a reason I spent so much on AN style hoses -they are superior to hose clamps

But as always your boat your choice. 


If you have any more questions for him, please get in touch with him directly.  He's the C36 Mark I Tech Editor and his contact should be in Mainsheet.

52
Main Message Board / Re: M25 Coolant Hose Elbows
« on: May 06, 2019, 07:52:04 AM »
Hose:   M25 and M25XP Freshwater Coolant Hose 1" to 7/8" TOYOTA Source
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7084.0.html

Elbow:  go to a plumbing supplier or Home Depot

53
Main Message Board / Re: New Headsail recommendation
« on: May 05, 2019, 08:29:43 PM »
If you've read this:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7704.0.html  then unless there was something specific you may want to ask about that wasn't covered in that thread, I'm not sure what more could be added to the basic concept.

Good luck, happy choice-making.

54
Main Message Board / Re: Summer 2019 Mainsheet
« on: May 05, 2019, 08:25:54 PM »
I personally know the author.  I will followup with him and report back.

55
Paul,

You might want to reconsider that idea.  When you pull on snaps, they, well. uhm, pull.  You really don't want to be yanking on the screws that hold your fixed portlights in place. 

Everyone I've ever seen with sun covers over their fixed portlights has installed separate snaps above and below their portlights.

Please think about it.

56
Main Message Board / Re: water coming in the traveler
« on: April 30, 2019, 05:15:28 PM »
Jon's right.  :D

I wrote this as he was posting, beat me to it!

btw, why did you say my boat was older when they are both 1986?

becki, simply because 99 comes BEFORE 224.  :D:D:D

I used to kid my friend, the late, great Bill Eddy that his boat was older than mine, too.  He had 214.  And I kidded my friend Stan O'Hoppe that my boat was more "experienced" than his 242.

All 1986.

All in good fun. 

57
Main Message Board / Re: water coming in the traveler
« on: April 30, 2019, 02:47:10 PM »
first boat and i do most of the work myself so i freak out.  thanks

My third and I still do that!   :clap :clap :clap

58
Main Message Board / Re: water coming in the traveler
« on: April 29, 2019, 07:40:31 PM »
You're very welcome.

You now have all the theoretical and practical advise that you could in this dialog.  It pretty much summarizes everything the group has recorded in the past 30 years.  :D

Don't hesitate to ask right here even if you get stuck in the middle and have more questions.

We're here for ya.   :thumb:


59
Main Message Board / Re: Diesel Fuel Tank Volume - 1987 MK 1
« on: April 29, 2019, 05:31:00 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ironically the hardest part was putting a sensible spreadsheet together. Yes the B and C dimensions change due to the tank shape on the outboard side of the tank.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

That's what I figured, thanks for confirming it.

60
Main Message Board / Re: Fixed portlight install—foam tape spacers?
« on: April 29, 2019, 04:47:35 PM »
When my portside fixed port started leaking when we were at anchor during our first winter (i.e., rain), when I removed it and rebedded with the silicone we had onboard, I do not recall any spacers.  I think your idea about using the 795 and no spacers is just fine, the screws have been holding mine in for 20 years!  :D

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