Topics

[The updates to this have been discontinued. Please use the Tech Notes Online. Please also note that some articles included here are from other model boats and do not appear in the Tech Notes Online which are C34 Tech Notes only. The references to other boat tech notes would be handy for those of you with paper copies of the magazines.]

The updates to this have been discontinued.  Please use the Tech Notes Online.  Please also note that some articles included here are from other model boats and do not appear in the Tech Notes Online which are C34 Tech Notes only.  The references to other boat tech notes would be handy for those of you with paper copies of the magazines. Thanks,  Stu  11/29/2015

As promised in the recent Anchor Windlass post, here is the Index of the Mainsheet Articles, from 1987 to 2004.  The purpose of this post is to provide you with a copy of a reference source that you can cut & paste into your own word processing program so that you can more easily search the contents and find "archived" information more easily.  The existing Index is on repetitive pages at www.c34.org, and this puts it into one place.   It's so long that it will take two posts.  Happy cutting & pasting. 

You can also use the Jon Schneider "KNOWLEDGEBASE" (an index in Excel format which allows for quick sorting & searching) recently updated by Bob Kuba, here: http://www.c34.org/tech-notes-index/index.htm


May 1987 Vol 5 #2
No Tech Tips, includes a general upgrade letter

August 1987 Vol 5 #3
No Tech Tips, good C30 bow roller picture  p 17

November 1987 Vol 5 #4 - Herb Schneider's first issue as editor
Modifications and Improvements: warranty items: bent traveller tracks, starboard halyard winch changed to two speed for better lead angle from mainsheet, engine vibration and noise - alignment and shaft log, anchor roller bow mounts for 25 lb. CQR, winch mount loran
More About Racing a Catalina 34 - good overall article with McMichael Tacking Lines diagram
Running aground with a wing keel in Florida

February 1988 Vol 6 #1 Great C30 Cover Photo
Modifications & Improvements from Dick Barck, San Francisco
Tech Tips:
Engine Over Temperature Alarm  p 19
Engine Cooling Vapor Lock
Batteries for Mechanical Refrigeration
Exhaust Gasket
More On Alternator Brackets
C30 Filter number parts references

May 1988 Vol 6 #2
New Engine Panel
Alarm Suggestions
Raw Water Intake sea grass
Plastic Bag Remover - thru hull tee cleaning device with diagram p 18

August 1988 Vol 6 #3
Spontaneous combustion fire on board, don't store rags
Hood furling system drum corrosion
Epoxy barrier coat
Fuel Problems and diesel filters - fill filters with clean fuel first for easy bleed p 17
Engine spares
Propellers - the beginning of a continuing saga!
First cocktail table article
Adler Barbour refrigeration and battery charging
Storage Additions: aft cabin drawer, fore cabin drawer, head cabinet, goo pix p 19

November 1988 Vol 6 #4
W. W. Gary Quick Charge electrical system article (not only for C34s)
Propellers
Heat Exchanger hose clamps
Backstay adjusters, higher joint
Dorade vents not closing, crow foot wrench
Traveller coming undone, galley sink plumbing
Oil leak canister rubbing on water line hose clamp
Fuel Filters & Refrigeration - good refrig details
High capacity batteries
Hawaiian fresh water collection: putty around deck fill
Modifications: Instrument cabinets, galley splash guard, companionway step groove p21 filler

February 1989 Vol 7 #1
Product News: Lazy jacks and fully battened mains
Excessive deviation: move air horn away from compass
Dahl fuel filters
Propellers and engine torque
More on props
Backstay adjuster
Hurth transmission, CQR bow roller
Staysail installation
Wing keel
Anchor storage, chart table, port light leaks: anchor holding comparisons
Aft cabin storage
C30: engine water in oil; changing fuel filters, new alternator bracket, leaking oil pan drain fitting and oil changes, coolant loss (faulty radiator cap only leaked after engine was off for awhile)

May 1989 Vol 7 #2
Polar Performance Diagrams
Static Stability
VHF Radio problems SWR meter
V berth insert ideas
Props, rudder play, plumbing
Propeller specifications

August 1989 Vol 7 #3
Refrigerator battery setup (see Vol 7 #4 for photos)
Waste discharge direct through hanging locker
Microwave installation in galley
White sliding door replacement
First Year Reflections (#767) good overall discussion of systems, especially exhaust manifold
Bow cleats
Aft cabin storage pin rail shelf at foot of aft cabin against fuel tank wall
Mainsail Jack lines p 50
C30 - backup jib for roller furling breakdown p 50
iHurth transmission * p 50


November 1989 Vol 7 #4
Engine overheating: Hoffman No. 500 Automatic air vent
Life line cleaning: white wall cleaner
Starting problems: loose cable crimps
Leaky Beckson Ports reseating
Refrigerator Battery setup
Heat exchanger clamps
Engine Mounting bolts
iShaft alignment revisited p 48
C30 exhaust manifold vented loop and steering quadrant details
iFebruary 1990 Vol 8 #1 SUPER ISSUE
Oil change equipment and procedures
Rice Crispies, etc, (#54) observations
Deep furling
Engine intake and backstay adjuster
Hurth transmission fill ideas
DC wiring diagram, topping lift
Sail shape: the first of many "over 15 knots of wind it gets tender"; first of many answers: reef
C30: excellent engine discussion and pictures, overhead galley storage and lighting

May 1990 Vol 8 #2
Pressure cooker good for saving cooking fuel
Backstay adjuster details and photos
Class sails
PHRF handicaps
Heavy weather and cabin mods; propane tank, shackles, table hinges, pad eyes, cedar hanging lockers, the port list
Refrigerator insulation (Ron Hill's first of many!!!!)
Sink drain, battery power; two frozen milk cartons in frig saves energy
Engine Vibration
Bow cleats

August 1990 Vol 8 #3
Major sail shape and sail construction article
Loading diagram (find it here); engine compartment modifications; beer can air filter
Propane Tank camping store backup
Fuel contamination from cracked plastic fuel fill cover
PHRF handicaps
C30: solar power, engine heating, water lift muffler leak
C27: repacking the stuffing box

November 1990 Vol 8 #4
Westerbeke purchases Universal
Engine performance; decommissioning checklist
Props, water in V berth, bottom paint
Engine squeal
Shifting, eel grass, vent stanchion smells
Heat exchanger mounting breakage-new 25XP exchanger
Cabin mods; deck drainage; icebox hinges, stove cover, main cabin cabinetry, additional holding tank under Nav station, companionway doors
Propane Tank box
PHRF ratings
iC30 Lazy jacks brought to mast   p 48
C25 Mainsail jack lines p 75

February 1991 Vol 9 #1
Back issues
Table, head and V berth mods
Decommissioning: sole removal and finishing
Keel blisters
Battery problems, bonding, thru hulls
iCockpit shower - hot and cold p 43
Trash container
Propane tank
Bluewater sailing - input from England
Cupboard, propane storage
Squeaks and rattles; hatch upgrade: doors & steps
Electrical system, paint, speed: AutoMac
Low cost refrigeration: camping plug in cooler
Wind generator questions
New alternator improves battery charging system

May 1991 Vol 9 #2
Article: Marine electronics interfacing - basics from the stone age, but good background
C36: Companionway netting (bug screens)
Diesel engine RPMS
Blister repair
Cockpit speakers on pop in hatchboard, pedestal instrument mount
Diesel engine idling: DON'T DO IT, we're not trucks
Barrier coat
Garhauer replacement
Lifeline gate new stanchion, cutter rig questions, teak supplier for drawers, etc.
Mast Pumping
Battery charger failure followup
Bulkhead storage
C30: adding temperature and pressure alarms

August 1991 Vol 9 #3
Float Plan form
C36: electrical panel major upgrade with photos
Boom vang
Stern ladder treads (they no longer make these teak gems - do it yourself)
High engine temperature situation: Bristol (now Seaward) fixes to panels & wiring
Engine vibration, soft engine mounts
Portlight screens
Engine zincs (those HIDDEN pencils)
Furling, props, impellers: Hood Seafurl drum peeling, two vs three blades and pitch, Sherwood vs Oberdorfer water pumps
Feathering props, swim ladder (how to get it deeper)
Cruising experiences: more batteries, autopilot, backup propane bottles, exterior loran in Beckson portlight, head smell, heat exchanger clamps
Storage under aft cabin, portlight screens
Cooler odor: drain water line
C27: Westerbeke address and phone

November 1991 Vol 9 #4
Air conditioning thru hatch
Head problems, cellular phone interference
Microwave feet, screens
Pressurized cockpit water (cold only)
Prop repitching and Additional head storage
Engine zinc modifications

February 1992 Vol 10 #1
Garhauer hardware 10 year warranty
Corrosion prevention: screws in metal
Wing keel draft
Prop pitch, Sail selection and mast tuning
Refrigerator circulation, keel bolt tightening
Rudder seepage- check inside column
Rub rails
Engine vibration
iC30: air bleed procedures p 40

May 1992 Vol 10 #2
iArticle: Everything You Want to Know About Furlers p 8
Shower Shutoff New Products
Refrigeration, Batteries, Binding Halyards, Bow rollers
Drip Free Shaft Log Packing - procedures and materials
iHead solution - antisiphon
Mast boot - canvas

August 1992  Vol 10 #3
C38: rudder removal while afloat (brrr-requires entering the water)
Engine Overheating, Mast Paint, Leaking forward port light
Engine vibration and filters
Microwave installation
Ship Radio Station license
iC30: heat exchanger mounts, voltage protection for radar and refrigeration, charging system p 47
iNew alternator bracket photo
Article: Modifications to a Catalina 30 for Passage Part II

November 1992   Vol 10 #4
C36: Idling problems (again, don't idle)
Turning blocks are bedded into a metal plate under the deck
Starting problems
Wing Keel
Helpful Hints: Bilge pump switch, head hatch screen, main sheet traveler upgrade, key chain floats, Dorade vent stickies
Refrigeration Installation, Aft Bulkhead removal (QUIZ: find the ten screws - see Aug '94)
C30: cutlass bearing removal

February 1993   Vol 11 #1
C36: anchor rollers, cabin heaters, reacher setup on forestay
Dinette and anchor locker mods: enclosed anchor shanks with SS, raised toilet, cut off port outer side of table to swing
Water damage: stanchions
Rigging tension and refrigeration, leaks; AutoMac reference
Second Time Around (#1200) reflections: large alternator, inverter, larger wheel, Max Prop, Lightning Chaser
Apache Modifications (#788): refrigeration, drip free packing, lazy jacks, loran repeater, propane, mainsail shackles, instrument lights for night time
Sweatshirts, Bedding
No Nonsense Improvements (#713): hinge frig lid, V berth drawers, box insulation, interior varnish, bow cleats and Beckson ports, city water inlet, AutoMac, packing box procedure, transmission fluid change procedure, halyard turning blocks, loran in cockpit
Hatch leak - well leak

May 1993 Vol 11 #2
C36: shore water & siphon vent maintenance
SAIL EXPO Tech Discussions: fuel pump after filter, remove strainer in fuel tank, stainless exhaust pipes, check antisiphon valves, parts catalogs from Catalina, rudder leaks, Wire Harness Mod kit, tach dip switch settings, keel leading edge
Teak Handrails handholds
Folding and Feathering Props
Mast Tuning Revisited
Brass Towel Rails
Dodger
Alternator wiring
iRudder stuffing box question p 21 - see Edson booklet
C30: Oberdorfer water pump impeller #U-295628, shaft and shaft log
C27: stuffing box procedures

August 1993 Vol 11 #3
C25: Spring lines - how to use them to get out of tight situations
iC30: Internal mast cable slap fixes; engine mounts, p 64
Sliding Panels (wood veneer), wiring harness upgrade
Anchoring: avoid dreaded keel wrap (use a sentinel)

November 1993 Vol 11 #4
C36: wiring harness upgrade
C36: anchor rollers homemade
Adjustable Genoa blocks
Stanchion leakage bedding procedure
Boat Handling
Engine Mounts, UV Protection: lag bolts AND mounting nuts should be checked
Garhauer Hardware - good guys again
C30: stuffing box procedures, 4 fuel filters, intake screen

February 1994 Vol 12 #1
Engine Oil Analysis
Counter top delaminating, anchor well modification
Prop alternatives
Wire harness
New Owner Questions(#88): jiffy reefing from cockpit, main raising, starboard coachroof winch, charger locations, sink drains
Smelly water from the hot side (use the hot side even with cold water to avoid water sitting in the heater)
C30: bilge pump switch, source for DC panel main blue light (Seaward L109.5)
iC27: changing zincs in the water

May 1994 Vol 12 #2
Max Props
Diesel Engine Valves - valve adjustment p 27
C30: from Ron Hill High Output Alternator (Cross reference Aug '93 article) p 35

August 1994 Vol 12 #3
C30: HX clamp fittings
Fuel Pump and Filter Part #s: electric fuel pump NAPA 610-1011
Diesel fuel & other regulations
CD Player Installation, V berth storage, Dinghy (dreaded jet ski!!!)
Bowsprit
Rudder post corrosion
Aft cabin access (that tenth screw from Nov '92!!!), companionway leaks p 68
C36: DC terminal strip on + side p 73

November 1994 Vol 12 #4
C42: midships round deck drain extension to avoid scupper stains p 16
Replacing fixed cabin windows
Intermittent Macerator Pump (reverse wiring to clear)
Battery Buss Bars
Cushion recovering, rigging and hardware, cabin heaters

February 1995 Vol 13 #1
The Complete Story of the Catalina Engine Harness Upgrade
C30: diesel fuel problems, additives, oil leak at alternator
An Electrifying Experience - Herb Gets Hit by Lightning
Head Drain
Counter removal #88 (see website for Al Watson's (#55) removal procedure it CAN be done!!!)
Hurth transmission fluid level - neat sight gage
Short handed sailing - mainsail control
Battery charging

May 1995 Vol 13 #2
C36: AC electrical, good article from Marinco
Lightning
Midship cleats and other questions
Battery discharge
Fuel leak (from fuel hose at deck fitting)
Cockpit radio
Anchor roller (CR-1) (Ron's with photo p 30)

August 1995 Vol 13 #3
Wind Machine Installation
Changing Transmission Fluid, midship cleats
Portlight replacement (Beckson to Lewmar)
Starting problems
Overhead hatch squeal
Caulk caps
Fan belt size
Coolant hose replacement (less expensive from auto store Gates 7/16 #7395)
Packing gland joints better at 45 than 90 degrees
iC30: Stern ladder overboard return system - valuable safety information p 43

November 1995 Vol 13 #4
Refrigeration: Adler Barbour repairs electronic modules
Battery charging: another Balmar 75 amp installation, and wiring
Engine Maintenance: HX upgrade on M25 to M25XP larger exchanger
Electrical gremlins: check the ground wire, too
Interior mods, racing performance: V berth storage access with large door, teak head grate, aft cabin portlight in #639, photo of entertainment center over Nav station (Gerald described this in writing on the website)

February 1996 Vol 14 #1
Adjustable genoa blocks
Down the Drain - galley sinks again - details and drawing of improvement
Emergency antenna
Engine starting - paralleled cable solution
Holding tank venting, Oil level and changing - one gallon zip style baggie from bottom
Bi-fold companionway door
Ice box topper
C30: transmission fluid DEXRON's ok if you can't get Type A, don't mix 'em
C30: alternator bracket failure

May 1996 Vol 14 #2
C42: Eliminating Head Odors
VacuFlush Retrofit
Universal Filter replacement Numbers
Fuel screen removal
Turning blocks, rigging, cruising spinnaker
Emergency tiller casting

August 1996   Vol 14 #3
C36: more filter replacement part numbers
Emergency tiller cap removal - be careful
More on oil filters
Double door access
Foot valve salt Water to galley
Forestay failure Hood LD top bearings
Mainsheet binders
Making your own main
Water in the bilge from spinnaker halyard opening
Outhaul in boom arrangement drawing
C28: Epoxy filler - keeping it shiny: use saran wrap for a good finish without painting (we've tried this and it works!)

November 1996 Vol 14 #4
Oil not on dipstick first time: break the vacuum, then reinsert, one step
Electrical system enhancements: Bay Tripper's Heart Freedom inverter charger, Link 2000R, Powerline 130 amp alternator, golf cart batteries; Whisker's Ample Power 106 amp alternator, Next Step Regulator, Cruising Equipment's Amp Hour Monitor; Apache's Balmar 75 amp dual output alternator, BRS regulator, gel batteries, Link 10 monitor
C30: more filter replacement part numbers

For those of you who are looking for stories of sailing, you know, not all this unrelenting technical nonsense, I suggest you continue to broaden your horizons and..."go back with us, to a place time forgot...crusing stories..."

Try: http://www.c34.org/voyages/index.html

...right here on your own website.  Betcha ya never knew this great stuff was there...

to get there, besides following the obvious link,  go to:  www.c34.org then use the Index on the left side -- one of the easiest to use indexes known to websites...

Enjoy

...and consider contributing your own stories.

Shamelessly stolen from the catalinaowners website board:

Raymarine ST4000+ MK 1,2

I wanted to get spares for the belt on the autopilot and found this bit of information that I thought I would pass on. Raymarine wanted $70.oo for the belt. I did some searching and found out the belt is a:TAPEZOIDAL TOOTH Neoprene rubber timing belt, .200"pitch, Trade SZ 300XL, 30" outer circle 3/8" W. I found that McMASTER-CARR 6100 Fulton Industrial Blvd. Atlanta GA 30336-2852 carries that belt. I got two for a total of $15.55 Their part number is 6484 K239 if you care. Their telephone number is 404-346-7000. John USNret

All credit goes to:  LKYusnret of High Point, NC -- many thanks.

Last weekend we were without shorepower although at a marina, which is the same as being anchored out, which we do a lot.  Our house battery bank is 315 ah with 3 year old deep cycle batteries in good shape.  As usual, we turned of the fridge when we went to sleep.  When I turned the fridge on in the morning, the ammeter popped up as it usually does before it settles in at 5 amps, but then cycled off.  I had installed a brand new fan a few months ago, and the unit had worked fine ever since.

Today, three days later, I checked the unit out and recommend the following to older boat owners who may be experiencing "problems" with the fridges (before you call the expensive repairman).

1.  Check the battery voltage - I left the boat "unplugged" since the weekend (we usually do anyway) to allow the batteries to "rest" and checked the electrolyte in each cell and the voltage at the batteries.

2.  Check the voltage at the compressor unit.

3.  Check the wire connections at the unit.  The Adler Barbour units have the positive and negative wires coming in the top of the electronic module portion of the unit, leading to two compression type wire connections.  I removed the wires, found them somewhat corroded (original OEM -- 1986 -- Catalina wiring was UNtinned), cut them shorter, re-trimmed and reinserted them with a spray of Boeshield.  One of the electronic module wires on a spade connector on the underside also appeared to need to be reseated.  There's not enough room for a ring connector there, and the spade that I put on the end of the wire is easier than trying to wind the fine wiring onto the screw.

Problem solved, system works.

When in doubt with anything electrical, CHECK THE CONNECTIONS.

BTW, I've been getting four or five years out of the fans.  Our local A/B distributor sells them for $48.  One of these days I'll take the old one into Radio Shack and see if they have a less expensive replacement.

[since being a registrant]

Hi

We've noticed a great deal of new activity on the Message Board and welcome all of those of you who are new to our Message Board.  We hope we've already helped you out and please know that we will do everything we can to point you in the right direction and answer your questions, old or new, as they come up.

!!!NEW  PayPal Option for payment as of February 2009!!!

For those of you new to the Message Board, we'd like to make you aware of the Catalina 34 International Association, since being a registrant on this Forum is not a membership in IA.  We're pleased to present and support this website for everyone.

Please note that purchasers of BRAND NEW boats will become C34IA members for free for one year, courtesy of Catalina Yachts.

The following is a letter that we prepared to send to all prospective members, folks who we've heard that have bought a C34.  If there's anyone you know, or even yourselves (!), please consider joining our Association.  The following describes the advantages and features that we offer.

***************
***************

I am writing to acquaint you with the Catalina 34 National Association, and to invite you to join one of the most active owners groups around.  The Catalina 34 National Association is a volunteer organization of approximately 720 C-34 owners who are dedicated to increasing the enjoyment of owning their Catalina C34s.  The benefits to you of belonging to the Catalina 34 National Association include:

  *   Subscription to the quarterly Mainsheet magazine, which includes articles and Technical Tips for Catalina 34s and all other Catalina Yachts
  *   Access to the website collection of all past issues of Tech Notes Online from Mainsheet
  *   Participation in our chartered local fleets, and affiliation with all-Catalina Associations   
  *   Eligibility to participate in the annual National Regatta with activities for both cruisers and racers
  *   Affiliation with BOAT/US; C-34 Association members may receive 1/2 price membership
*   Participation in the Catalina 34 website: www.c34.org
  *   Access to the complete Technical Notes Online free of charge to all C34IA members
*   Maintaining a high resale value of your C-34 through a strong class association

The local Fleets are comprised of regional groups of owners who often organize cruises, week-end raft-ups, races and social activities.  They provide an excellent opportunity to meet people with similar interests.

Our fleets are:

Fleet 1 - San Francisco
Fleet 12 - Chesapeake Bay
Fleet 13 - Lake Lanier GA
NEW Fleet 14 East Coast Florida

****************
****************

You can easily join the C34IA by going to this link: http://www.c34.org/join_top.html  Just fill out the form and SNAIL MAIL it with your check. 

!!!NEW  PayPal Option for payment as of February 2009!!!

Please note that dues are $25/$45 two years.

Thanks, and welcome to the C34 Community.

Please note that signups via PayPal do not instigate an automatic reply to your membership.  We still manually enter your information in our membership database and then send you a welcome email with the user name and password for the TNOs.   We will respond to your PayPal input within a few business days, not immediately, and the process is not automatically generated by computers.  We're still in the Golden Age of Sail - yup, you betcha!

Posted on the Forum, General Activities, General Information section: 

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?board=25.0

[International Catalina 34 Association Year 2006 Annual Officers Meeting]

March 14, 2006

International Catalina 34 Association Year 2006 Annual Officers Meeting

Dear Catalina 34 International Association Members, Officers and Board Members;

The Annual Meeting of the Catalina 34 International Association Officers was held via telephone conference call on Monday, February 27, 2006, 9:00 P.M.  Eastern Standard Time, 6:00 P.M. Pacific Standard Time.

The 2006 International Officers are listed after these meeting notes and were duly elected by a majority of Board (Past Commodores and Fleet Captains) in accordance with our Constitution.  Participants in this teleconference included all Officers listed except for Steve Lyle, Technical Editor, and Dave Sanner, our new Webmaster, appointed by Commodore Jon Arck.

MEETING NOTES - Officers Reports and Discussions

COMMODORE – Jon Arck - Fleet 1

1.   Introduction of New Officers - Jon introduced Dave Sanner (Fleet 1) as the new webmaster.  Dave was unavailable for the meeting because of a new baby due to arrive momentarily.  Jon noted that he would be working out the details of the transfer from Phil to Dave, and would be helping with the Tech Notes and some other functions during the transfer.

2.   Next National Regatta – A National Regatta will be held this year in San Francisco. The dates are September 22-24, 2006, with a four race schedule, one on Friday, two on Saturday and one on Sunday.  Dave Davis reported that Chris Owen of Fleet 1 is the Chairman of the Race Committee.  The venue is the Golden Gate Yacht Club, right on the waterfront on San Francisco Bay.  Dave Davis and George Bean will coordinate to publish the Notice of Race to Jim Moe for publication in the May issue of Mainsheet magazine,.  George will make announcements on the C34 Website Forum Message Board.  George will encourage out-of-towners to join the local fleet participants.  Dave Davis noted that this is sixth Nationals to be held in San Francisco.

3.   Other
a.   Jon reported on his visit to the Miami Boat Show, noting that there was no evidence of Catalina's recognition of the 20th Anniversary of the C34 production.
b.   Jon recommended attention to the April Oakland Boat Show and suggested that local C34 members attend and promote with appropriate activities.


VICE COMMODORE – Gene Norris

1.   Plans and Comments – Gene was introduced by Jon as the new Vice Commodore. Gene's experience includes service as Fleet Captain for two terms in Fleet 12 in the Chesapeake fleet.  He thanked Tidewater Marine for turning him on to the C34IA and appreciated his ability to give back to the organization.  Gene's activities for the upcoming year are
a.   Followup with new San Diego Fleet.
i.   Forward Fleet Formation package
ii.   Followup with San Diego fleet officers
iii.   Encourage San Diego Fleet captain to write a Fleet News for Mainsheet and submit it to Jim Moe for publication
iv.   Publish updates in Mainsheet Officers messages
b.   Potential fleet formation in St. Petersburg Florida area.
i.   Stu to send Gene a list of members in the 337xx area code

2.   Fleet Formation Chain of Command – Stu noted that Fleet Formation is the responsibility of the Vice Commodore, while written articles from Fleet Captains,  Fleet Officers and Board members should all go through and directly to Jim Moe.

3.   Vice Commodore Flag – Jon will check with Gene Regan, former Vice Commodore and arrange to send it to Gene Norris.


SECRETARY  Stu Jackson   Fleet 1

1.   Report on Membership – 695 members down from a high of 730 two years ago, out of 1749 C34 boats built, as reported to us by Catalina Yachts.  Membership remains steady around the 700 mark, although with new boats built at the rate of one a week, we would expect membership to increase by 50 a year.   Stu noted his observations that when older boats are sold they either are private sales or to a yacht broker.  In either case it could well be that the new owners of older boats are not being advised of the existence of the C34IA.  We are also noticing an increase in new visitors to the Message Board of the Forum.  Accordingly, we will implement two activities:  one, Stu will prepare a "New Forum Members Welcome Note" (Stu noted that much this text is already available as part of his secretary's standard letters); two, Jon, Stu, Phil and Dave Sanner will continue to work on automating the "new members have been added" feature of the Forum portion of the website to give Stu the ability to contact new Message Board members directly from their email addresses.  Phil noted that he had recently provided Stu with administrative functions on the website.

2.   Other
a.   Stu thanked Bill Jenks for his contributions as Past Commodore and Treasurer as well as his preparation of the Catalina 34 Handbook; Phil Imhof for his service as Association Editor, Treasurer and Webmaster; and Jim Moe for the great February 2005 Mainsheet issue which highlighted C34s, with a cover photograph and a long destinations article from Martin Johnson in England. 
b.   Stu noted that he should have provided Bill with a ballot for the 2006 Officers slate in Bill's role as a Past Commodore.  Bill noted that this is one of the items he raised in his review of the Constitution in the draft of his C34 Handbook.  Agreed that Stu and Bill would continue to work on the Handbook.
c.   C36 CD-ROMs – At the request of one C34IA member, Stu has been discussing the ability of C34 and C36 IA members to be able to purchase each others CD-ROMs.  Avoidance of duplication of information on the CDs makes sense, as there are many similarities between our two boats.  Stu will followup with the C36 officers.


TREASURER -  Bill Jenks

1.   Treasury Status – Bill distributed his financial report.  The report was structured like a Balance Sheet showing past year activities and projections for the coming year.  The 2005 balance was a loss of $960 compared to a loss of $2,033 for the earlier 2004 year. Bill reported on the loss of income from the theft from the post office.  His projections include a loss of $2,000 from this theft.  Projections for 2006 is an operational loss of $3,825, which would leave a projected balance of only $5,152 in the treasury, compared to a balance of $12,000 for 2003, $10,000 for 2004 and $9,000 for 2005.  Stu noted that he has checks not yet sent to Bill of $1,907, of which $1,094 are for replacement checks for the theft, $813 for renewals since the theft.  This wouldn't change the projections.
a.   Bill reported that he had already sent one note out to all of the members whose checks were stolen.  About a third have responded, based on Stu's receipts, including Catalina Yachts.  [In an earlier conversation, Stu had  agreed with Bill to advise Bill when checks are being sent so Bill can check his post office as soon as possible.]
b.   Agreed that Bill would send a second note out to all of those who had their checks stolen. The note will include a thanks to those who have already sent their replacement checks, and a reminder to those who are still working on their replacements.
c.   Bill and Jon will draft a note to be published in Mainsheet to encourage Fleet members to join the C34IA.  Draft to be sent to Officers for review and comment.

2.   The Balance Statement was accepted as submitted.

3.   Insurance Coverage – Insurance rates are prohibitive for the regatta. 

4.   Fleet Support – Extensive discussion about the advantages of Fleet Support occurred.  Recent growth of fleets (#3 Barnegat Bay NJ, #8 Emerald Coast FL and #13 Lake Lanier GA) reflect interest in local people assembling for mutual pursuits related to C34s and personal group activities that are supported by financial aid by the Association as part of its Constitutional responsibilities: Article I I, Item 8, "Charting local fleets to promote maximum participation in Catalina 34 International Association and Fleet activities," and Item 1, "Promoting cruising and social activities."  Bill and Jon to draft a note to be published in Mainsheet to encourage Fleet members to join the C34IA, noting the many Fleet functions are performed "with the support" of the C34IA financially; Fleet Captains should be encouraged to mention this in their reports.  Fleet members should be encouraged to join the C34IA.

5.   C34IA Dues – Because of the increase in the cost of Mainsheet, and projected possible future increases, and to keep the treasury solvent to maintain ongoing fiscal responsibilities for fleet support, regatta support, new fleet support and expenses including the website, dues will increase to $25/$45.


CHIEF MEASURER - George Bean - Fleet 1

1.   Plans and Comments – George reported that Fleet One will hold a National Regatta in September.  George expressed his concern about insurance coverage.  Dave Davis noted that his understanding is that there are two sides to the insurance: land and ocean.  Land would be covered by the Golden Gate Yacht Club, ocean by individual boat owners.  Jon will check on US Sailing Insurance for individual regattas.  Insurance rates have been growing exponentially in the past few years.  George and Dave Davis will prepare a Notice of Race for publication in the Mainsheet May 2006 issue.

2.   Racing Rules – Dave Davis and George will work to develop a Racing Rules for the Catalina Handbook.


WEBMASTER  Phil Imhof

1.   Plans and Comments – Phil reported transforming to Dave Sanner, effective the first of March 2006.
2.   Reissue of CD-ROM – I reported that we have new copies of the CD and have at least a year's supply.  Phil advised that a new CD would not be able to include the entire contents of the Message Board.  Agreed to hold off on updating for another year.  Stu reported that the C36 Association has updated their CD-ROMs which are available to C34 members.  Since many of the same systems are on both boats, it would not make sense to duplicate information.  Agreed to offer the C34 CD-ROMs to C36 owners at $10 per unit.
3.   Emails – Phil has set up gMail addresses.  He noted that instructions are on the Forum under Officers.  Store and Map Forum functions – Phil reported high interest in the mapping function, and noted that the store is available.
4.   Pictures on the Message Board – Phil has kept the file size small for dialup users, so PDF file sizes have to kept within a certain size.  More space is available and pictures could be improved.
5.   Tech Notes Online on the Forum – Phil advised that access is limited.  Details of administrative access to be reviewed offline with Jon and Stu.


TECHNICAL EDITOR Steve Lyle; Associate Editor & Ron Hill - Fleet 12

1.   No report

2.   Tech Notes Online – Noted that November 2005 and February 2006 are not posted.  Jon to ask Steve to send electronic file data to Ray Irvine for posting.


MAINSHEET EDITOR Jim Moe

1.   Plans and Comments – Jim repeated his requests for timely submission of articles including Officers and Fleet Captains.

2.   Scanning of Tech Notes for Tech Notes Online  & Coordination with Technical Editor
a.   Additional effort should be made to improve the quality of the Tech Notes Online.  Based on last years Officers Meeting, direct conversion should be made.  Ray Irvine, Fleet 1 Captain has volunteered to do this.
b.   Jim very clearly stated that NO, repeat, NO publication of ANY material of any kind can be made on the website before it is published in Mainsheet.  This has been clear since the start of publication.

3.   Mainsheet Costs - Jim noted that the Mainsheet costs are most likely going to continue to rise with the switch to all color production.

4.   Association Editor Coordinator
a.   All material for publication in Mainsheet magazine should be coordinated and sent to the Association Editor for publication.  This includes the material developed by the Technical Editor.  Jim will discuss with Steve.
b.   Stu requested that Jim to continue to work with Steve to make technical material available for publication on the website, after publication in Mainsheet, of all new (not older) Tech Notes Online from now on and other material published, like material in the February 2006 Destinations section and older material.  He noted that the reason is to capture the color photographs, since the current scanning procedures lose the quality of the originals.
c.   Note was made that the November 2005 and February 2006 Tech Notes have not yet been posted online.



SUMMARY – Motions Made

1.   C34IA Dues
a.   To raise dues FROM $20 one year $36 two years TO $25 one year $45 two years
i)   Motion carried
ii)   Reflects need to support increased cost of Mainsheet magazine

2.   Fleet Support
a.   To provide Fleet Support in the amount of $20 per Fleet member as in past years
i)   Motion not carried
b.   To provide Fleet Support in the amount of $15 per Fleet member as of April 1, 2006
i)   Motion carried
ii)   Mention needs to be made of the theft problem; would like to have done more
iii)   Feedback should be encouraged from Fleet Captains to advise the C34IA Officers as to how the money was used for attracting new members to the C34IA, and reporting C34IA Fleet Support in their Mainsheet stories

3.   2006 National Regatta Support
a.   Motion to provide $100 per boat up to 15 boats
i)   Motion carried
ii)   Noted Fleet 1 will be charging from $70 to $90 for entry fee

4.   To prepare ballots for Constitutional Amendments for
a.   Joint signatures for checking account to add Commodore
i)   Accepted with modifications to have commodore "...appoint an acting treasurer among the existing officers until the post is filled."
b.   Honorarium for Secretary
c.   Next step is for the secretary to prepare the ballots for issue to the Board (Fleet Captains and Past Commodores)

Jim Moe left at 7:50 p.m.; Gene Norris left at 8:35 p.m.  Meeting adjourned at 9:25 p.m. (All times West Coast Standard)

2006 International Officers

2006 Commodore Jon Arck (Fleet 1) (925) 942-0888
2005 Commodore
2004 Vice-Commodore
#1346
jonarck@kelarc.com

PAST COMMODORES Dave Davis (#707)(Fleet 1)   (650) 948?3461 
Davis_707@yahoo.com (Dave Davis)
Bob Bierly (804) 453?5335 (C380)
bojabierly2@aol.com (Bob Bierly)

2006 Vice-Commodore Gene Norris
Former Fleet 12 Captain
#1255
e_norris@verizon.net

2006 Secretary Stu Jackson (Fleet 1) (510) 208-1906
1999-2005 Secretary
#224
mraquaq@aol.com

2006 Treasurer Bill Jenks (360) 832?8760
2005 Treasurer
2003&4 Past Commodore
#1484
Jenks@mashell.com

2006 Chief Measurer - George Bean  (408) 473-5068 (office)
2003-2005 Chief Measurer
#1476
george.t.bean@lmco.com (George Bean)

2006 Mainsheet Editor Jim Moe  (763) 786?6609
2004 & 5 Mainsheet Editor
#976
jmoe@att.net


2005 Webmaster Phil Imhof (631) 8928-6661
(non-voting)
2004 & 2005 Webmaster
2003 & 2004 Treasurer
2001 & 2002 Association Editor
#430
Excalibur@mssa.org

2006 Webmaster  Dave Sanner (775-588-6699)
Fleet 1
(non-voting)
#611
c34webmaster@gmail.com

2006 Technical Editor  Steve Lyle (585) 425?9853
2004 & 2005 Technical Editor 
#75
Slyle1@rochester.rr.com

2006  Associate Technical Editor Ron Hill (540) 891-5297
(non-voting)
2004 & 2005  Associate Technical Editor
Past Technical Editor
#788
ronphylhill@adelphia.net

Important stuff at: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2738.0

[wiki]

Updated January 2007 to Include the New KNOWLEDGEBASE

Updated 2009 to Include the New wiki Section

See posts below for information on the new wiki

*************************************************************************************
Updated November 2009:

The C34 community is indebted to the late Past Commodore Jon Schneider (#1058 - Atlantic Rose) for the tremendous work involved in his contribution of the new KNOWLEDGEBASE, a complete Index of the C34IA Tech Notes, Projects and FAQs.  It is yet another example of the benefits of C34 IA membership.  It also reflects the continued interest of our members to share their information and to "put back" into their community.

The New KNOWLEDGEBASE is a critically important feature to the C34 Website because it fulfills the requests of many members for an easier and more useful vehicle to search for information.  The "Original Website" search engine was poor compared to the powerful search feature on this Message Board.  While Search engines in general act like indexes in books, this new KNOWLEDGEBASE provides BOTH a Table of Contents AND indexing features.  We are sure that it will add immensely to your enjoyment and ease of use to find information about C34 skipper's experiences and helpful hints.

*************************************************************************************
In a recent post, Ron Hill noted: "As Stu said - most of the information is already out there.
Might be nice if Santa would bring us some "links" on the Message Board to our other C34 IA sites like "Projects" and "FAQs"."

In response to that request, and since some have recently said that "There's TOO MUCH information" on our website, I have modified some recent posts I have made and offer this as your Guide to clarify and explain how the C34 website is arranged.

************************************************

Your sources of technical information on C34s are:

--  Original Webpage FAQs:  http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq.html

--  Original Webpage Tech Notes:  http://www.c34.org/techindex_top.htm 

--   The Tech Notes Index on this Message Board is: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3096.0   Please note this list includes some non-C34 tech notes, available ONLY in paper copies of the magazine, NOT on the Tech Notes Online

--  Original Webpage Projects:  http://www.c34.org/projects/projects.html

--  This Message Board on the Forum:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?board=11.0

--  The NEW JANUARY 2007 KNOWLEDGEBASE Index to the Original Website:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3362.0, which links to: http://www.c34.org/tech-notes-index/technotes-excel.xls

--  The NEW 2009 WIKI Section:  http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page[/b]

These six specific areas have all of the technical information that has been so graciously shared by C34 owners since 1987, right here on your website.

**************************************************

Here's the history: The Original Home Page at www.c34ia.org and the associated Projects and FAQs were developed over the years to organize and collect the vast amount of information that had been generated by interested C34 owners about their boats.

The Original Homepage FAQs, particularly, were made by a handful of us who took our own personal time and copied questions and answers from the older email "List" that preceded the Message Board, and made "articles" about the subjects.  They were prepared and edited by these individuals and then emailed to the Associate Webmasters, who then posted them on the website.  As noted to me recently by a Mark II owner, those FAQs are primarily concerned with Mark I boats, although some boats systems remain the same (i.e., HX zincs and electrical systems).  I find that the FAQs are almost essential for new owners with older boats.

The Tech Notes Index was prepared and published on the website in early 1999.  The purpose was to list the contents of the Technical Notes that were originally only published in Mainsheet magazine ever since the C34 section started in the magazine in 1987.  Later, in 2001, your C34 Officers agreed to support the effort required to copy each of those voluminous technical articles and post them on the website as an advantage to our C34 IA membership.  They had previously only been available for additional cost in what were considered to be poor xerox copies.  The Tech Notes Index is available to everyone.  The Tech Notes Online are available ONLINE to only C34 IA members.  The Tech Notes from 1987 to 2001 also come on a FREE CD-ROM when you join the Association. 

This Message Board is relatively "new" compared to the long history of the Original C34 website and is an ongoing resource for technical information in addition to the archived and captured boat technical information at www.c34.org, with it's own Projects, FAQs and Tech Notes. 

With the advent of this searchable Message Board relatively recently, there was no longer a need to do that time consuming work for the FAQs, which is why there are fewer new FAQs on the original homepage.  This Message Board has pretty much replaced the old FAQs, primarily because the Message Board is searchable and eliminates the work required for the preparation of those FAQs.  But most importantly all of the old FAQs still remain available for your use and information.

I continue to urge you all to check out the Original C34 Webpage (www.c34ia.org) Projects, FAQs and Tech Notes Index with the links noted above in addition to this Message Board to become familiar with the incredible wealth of information that has been gathered over the years about our boats, both Mark Is and Mark IIs.  Please note that the "FAQs" on the Original Homepage are BOAT related FAQs, and not "how to use the website" FAQs.

The New KNOWLEDGEBASE will facilitate information research on the Original C34 Website.

Also be aware that you no longer have to prepare and submit Projects and FAQs for the original Website.  Just use the wiki. 

To submit Tech Notes to the C34 section of the Mainsheet Magazine, prepare your material and submit it to the Technical Editor of the Association.  It will be published and only later will it appear on the website:  first, Mainsheet won't publish previously published material, so it has to get published in the magazine first; second, we used to scan the published text into PDFs for the Tech Notes Online and now post the original articles in full and living color!

(Jan. 2007 update:  We are working to improve the posts to the Tech Notes Online by using the original, color photo, material and intend to have that operational soon in 2007.)

Update June  2009:  Commodore Bob Kuba has been updating the TNOs with the original color photos and unedited original text material from 2006 to the present in addition to the older PDF files.  Take a look at the updated TNOs.

Of course, we continue to look forward to your new questions on this Message Board, which is "THE" place to exchange daily ideas and questions.

[Please read both pages]

Please read both pages

Following the subject of these links: 
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1328.0 (Tech notes Mainsheet 11/03 Napa Pump # ) and http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1740.0 (Electric Fuel Pump) and others.

It's called a "POSI-FLO Universal Electronic Fuel Pump," and has pictures of cars, engines, trucks and boats on it.

Here are pictures of the actual Napa replacement fuel pump.  As Ron said, it's electronic.  What I don't know is:  does this new electronic pump still make that welcome ticking sound?  See Ron's input on the update to one of the links above, and later posts here below.

The first picture is of the box before I opened it.  You will notice that it is FACET pump in a NAPA box.  "Facet" was the original (and my PO-provided spare) pump when I earlier posted the easy way to switch the hoses to get the pump flow changed from the OEM incorrect way of: from the tank to the pump to the filter, changed to correctly: from tank, to (usually the Racor) filter, to pump, to engine (with its own fuel filter).  The pump has a fuel flow direction arrow on the back side.

It comes with two barbed fittings that screw into the housing of pump and connect to your fuel hoses.  The instructions indicates that they're 5/16 inch barbs, which may require changing to 3/8 inch to match the fuel hose.  The threads inside the pump will most likely accept your existing barb fittings.

The pump instructions require a filter BEFORE the pump.  If you haven't yet, switch the "plumbing."  As Ron said, the new pump has no filter.  Therefore, why chance clogging the new pump with whatever may be in your fuel tank?  Just correct the hoses: tank, filter, pump, engine.

The pump comes with an in-line waterproof yellow fuse holder, see the second picture below.  One of the links above discusses fuse sizing.  Ron suggested a 7 1/2 A fuse.  The OEM pumps did not apparently have fuses. 

The ring on the negative chould either be retained and NOT removed, using the bolt at the foot of the pump to connect the grounds, or you can use a new butt connector without the rings (just harder to take apart later).  Take a look at picture 3 (old OEM fuel pump) below:  the old ground wire on our OEM pump had a ring connector on it for use in providing the ground.  Use the ring connector on the new pump for a connection to ground using the new pump's mounting foot.  This is simply the existing black GROUND wire running to the existing ground wire at the existing pump's black wire that connects to the entire fuel system underneath the port side of the boat going back to the fuel tank.

The mounting method for the pump body is elongated holes on the base of the pump.  I would guess that one of the existing sheet metal screws holding in the old pump could be used and perhaps only needs one more hole for the second foot of the new pump.  The pump comes with (2) 1-1/4 inch long 7/32 self tapping screws for use on, of all things, an automobile or truck!  The purpose of that is to bolt it to the car's metal frame for ground, which doesn't work on our boats!  One of the two supplied bolts and nuts is shown going through the ring connector in picture 2.

Price: $36.49 before tax.  Pretty much in line with the 2003 price of less than $35 reported in this message board earlier.

The old replacement pump, #601-1011, has been superseded, I'm told today by Napa, to #601-1074.  It costs $134!!!  They didn't have either of the mechanical pumps #s in stock, so it looks like they're switching over to these new guys.  Given the price benefit of the new pumps, why bother with the old?  I think they have their pricing backwards, but I'll take $39 over $134 every time!   

Now you know what it looks like, too! 

The Wall Street Journal reports that red wine stains can be eliminated by using white wine and salt.

What a great reason to keep a fully stocked wine cellar on board.

In addition to Calder's Boatowner's Manual, the Ample Power Primer (www.amplepower.com) [click on Technical Documents] and Jack Rabbit Marine (make it one word between www & .com), I have come across the following link to very good information about battery maintenance:

http://www.batteryfaq.org/index.htm

Just click on the "FAQ 5.2" hyperlink below the battery picture to get to the juicy text.

[PLUMBING]

PLUMBING (water hoses, plumbing, general boat stuff, rigging, furling)

Company:   S&R Marine   Address:   Grand Marina, Alameda
   Contact:   Don Rock      
   Phone:   510-749-0761
               Cell:         510-325-6464

Don's a good guy, pleasant to work with, will share his knowledge with you, doesn't mind you helping out while he's there.  Kinda jack of all trades.  Most likely works only on our side of the Bay, and local.  Has a ponytail like Greg Sherwood used to have!  

He's off cruising now.

ELECTRICAL - good guy used by Stan O'Hoppe, nice work

              Ryan's Marine, Ryan Schofield  510-385-3842
                 lives on his boat, a C27 I think, at Oakland Yacht Club (most likely will travel), his small thin ad is usually in the last ten pages of Latitude 38

REFRIGERATION (Adler Barbour fridges)

               Anderson Refrigeration Company   Address:   PO Box 2346
   Contact:   Carl Anderson      3204 Fiji Lane
   Phone:   510-521-3111   Bay Farm Island
   Title:      City:   Alameda
   Sec:      State:   CA
   Dear:   Carl   Zip Code:   94501

SURVEYOR

   Company:   Worldwide Marine Surveys, Ltd.   Address:   351 Embarcadero
   Contact:   Peter Minkwitz      
   Phone:   510-465-2527   Ext:      CC:   1   
   Title:      City:   Oakland
   Sec:      State:   CA
   Dear:   Peter   Zip Code:   94606

Peter is an absolute professional.  He was the director of Svendsen's boat yard in Alameda for many years.  He surveyed two C34s for me, the one we chose NOT to purchase (thanks to Peter's survey), and Aquavite.  Peter is familiar with C34s and has copies of much of the earlier (1998) on-line website material, which he asked me to copy for him to further his knowledge of our specific models.  Highly recommended.  His written surveys are very thorough, and include his recommendations for work that needs to be accomplished.  He doesn't do engine surveys, so that is something, as always, you need to consider separately.  I know of no one else in the Bay area who will provide the information needed in a REAL survey (as opposed to only an inventory survey) in such a concise and useful manner.

BAD News:  Peter passed away in 2011.

Thanks to Randy Thies, Voyager #1345, 1997, for suggesting and providing us with this article.

Also thanks to Phil Imhof our webmaster for posting it.

You can find it on the main website, click on the History link on the menu on the left side and scroll down to its link.

http://www.c34.org/history.html

There are three GIF files.  If they don't print out well from the 'site, just cut and paste them and use your own computer's programs to print them out.

Thanks again, Randy and Phil.

Please also note that the SAIL magazine review is also on that web page.

A few years ago when the old email list was being transferred to what is now this forum, there was an intermediate step involved, which ended being called the Discussion Group.  It was the first of the "automated"  style message boards, and has some good information.  Somehow, the link to it was removed from the right side of the main 'site's index.

Here it is:
http://www.c34.org/c34disc/index.html

PLEASE NOTE - the old mailing list NO LONGER EXISTS.  This is just some material I thought you might be interested in.

More happy reading.  

OK, OK, I admit it, I still have one. But it's for our dinghy, 1990 Evinrude 9.9 short shaft.

I replace the spark plugs every time we use it, which is once very six months.

I know the old sawhorse about the amount of time that a piece of mechanical equipment gets used is directly proportional to its ability to work.

Our problem is hard starting when it's cool out. Took it up to the Delta this summer, and in the 90 heat it was fine. Once we got back down closer and into the cooler SF Bay, it takes 60 (yup, that's right 60) pulls to get it going once it's cooled off, overnight. Once it first starts, it's just fine and dandy. Fires right up.

Bought the motor about 5 years ago at a swap meet for a good price, had it checked out at the Outboard Motor Shop in Alameda (before they were bought out by Sea Power), and everything was fine then. Haven't done anything "bad" to it.

Any "historians" out there who know these critters and can help? Any idiosyncrasies with 1990 Evinrudes?

[IMPORTANT MESSAGE]

I've received a series of "Help" emails from people who have had trouble "re-signing" onto this upgraded message board.  

When we switched it over, there was an  IMPORTANT MESSAGE  on the main Forum page, that was, in hindsight, not immediately apparent.  You had to scroll down to read it.

So...just to refresh:

The entry to the website (main home page: www.c34ia.org) does not require a password.  Or a username.  

The ONLY sections that require user names and passwords are the Online Tech Notes and this message board.  

The message board, now accessible through the new "FORUMS" line, uses your own made up password and the username is also up to you.  

You shouldn't be having trouble getting on, either for the Online Notes (the assigned username and password from the Association) or the message board (the one YOU make up).  Phil Imhof, our new webmaster, posted the instructions for the new message board, and here's how you get THERE:

If you go to Forums on the BLUE background at the top of the main website (Home Page) NOT the underlined Forums on the left side, you'll get this message:

Moving Day is here!!

We have moved to a bulletin board system on the new website. All the messages (hopefully) have been transferred to the new system. All the logins for users exist as they did on the old message board at Infopop.

You will, however, need to reactivate your username.

This is the procedure to follow: 1. When you get to the Login screen at the message board, click on the "log In" and then the  "I forgot my password" link.2. Enter your username & e-mail address as requested on the screen.3. Check your e-mail in a few minutes. You should get a message. 4. Open the message and click on the link to activate your user ID. You will get a message that your  ID has been activated again. 5. Write down your new password as noted in the e-mail message. 6. Go back to the Message board login screen and login with your username and new password. You will be able to change your password to something else after you have logged in. 7. If you experience a problem, and things don't go the way you think they should, don't hesitate to e-mail me at:                                

webmaster@c34ia.org or excalibur@mssa.org.      

To summarize:

Tech Notes Online:  you need to be an Association member to get the username and password.

Message Board: follow the instructions above.

Hope this helps.

["Tech notes Mainsheet 11/03,"]

Being out on the boat more than being home for the past month has been great.  

We went out yesterday for an overnighter.  When we engaged the engine key, the electric fuel pump did NOT start clicking - Cory noticed it right away.  

References are made to previous posts, including this one, found, along with many other great posts and information, with the new search engine at:

(Note: the old message board is disabled, so clicking on the link below will not take you there...)

Fuel Pump: see: http://c34.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=817606394&r=105604816#105604816

This one should get you to the NAPA replacement #, it's called "Tech notes Mainsheet 11/03," in the search results

http://www.c34ia.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1328&highlight=fuel+pump

I have a Facet installed, the one that stopped working.  I also have, thanks to the PO, another Facet replacement!  Wow  

Question is    in your experience, do these pumps just stop working all of a sudden?  

Of course, I know that I'll have to check the wiring to the pump that's in, but it may be simpler to swap the old one with the new one.  I could also try powering the old one that's in with wires directly from the house bank to see if it works, which would confirm whether or not it's an electrical power wiring problem.

Any other ideas?

When you're having a great cruise, but then, magically, the engine won't start, one of the first things to do is to check the starter solenoid fuse holder.

We did last week, and found the wire from the solenoid intact, the fuse holder intact, but a space of about 3 inches between them!

Evidently, the 18 year old, $1.24 fuse holder solder connection failed.  Don't ya just wish they made better stuff that would last longer!

In about a half hour I installed a new wire with a new spade connector to the solenoid, and put in a new fuse holder butt connected to the wire through the harness to the starter button.  The old fuse looks to be a slow blow, so I cleaned it up and put it back in the new fuse holder.

Just a reminder that it's there.  BTW, it's VERY helpful to have electrical tools, wire and fuse holders on board.  This was written up in one of the earlier 1980's FAQs, but it happened to me last week.  Glad I could still remember reading it.

Stu

Just a reminder, Mark Elkin has been doing a great job on these parts of the main website.

Many of our frequent contributors here on the message board have written some great material.

Go there, it'll help you all out.

Stu

This is a continuation from:

http://c34.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=936606927

1.  A search on the main website shows Ron's Tech Notes references: (search on dip switch)

http://www.picosearch.com/cgi-bin/ts.pl

NOTE: this link doesn't work directly.  If you do a search on the main site with "dip switch" you'll get to that URL)

2.  It leads to the Feb. 1999 article:

http://c34.org/mainsheet/pdf/1999_no1.pdf

The 1999 article also references the 1993 article by Ron.

Seems if you don't have the 14 pole tach you need to find out some more information about your alternator poles #s, pulley sizes, etc.

ONLY YOU know what's on your boat. I'm not sure there's anything more that can be said beyond what Ron already wrote back in 1999, and which he recommended.

Thanks to all of you for noting that you're using the search engines, and please keep  on posting your questions that remain unanswered.  There's always something new out there.

Stu

It's that time again to remind you to help us out by letting us know who you are and what hull # and year boat you have.

We understand that it's in the "background" of your sign up, but you can make it pop up right on the message board every time, so others who are answering your questions can be more specific.  Your hull # and year really helps in answering.

HOW TO DO IT

MESSAGE BOARD FORMAT INPUT INSTRUCTIONS

1. Find a post you've made and click on your name OR
2. Go to "Profile" (on the top of this page in different locations dependign on the "theme" you chose to use)
3. Click on Forum, Profile Information, Edit Profile.
4. Scroll down to Signature.
5. We recommend that you input your real name, boat #, year, boat name (as much as will fit) in the signature box.
6.  Go to the bottom right and click on the Change profile Button.

That should pop up the info everytime so you don't have to repeat typing in your identification information each time you post a new message.

Please also see this post:  C34IA Membership  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2768.0

And this "Guide to the C34IA Website"  --  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2629.0

Thanks,

THANKS TO YOU ALL

This Catalina 34 Community is WONDERFUL.

"SURVEY SAYS:"  (folklore de-bugged)

THERE IS NO ANSWER TO WHEN CATALINA "changed" in 1986-7 from deck stepped to keel stepped, or there and back again masts.

So much for C34 engineer's linear thought processes.

Because:  CATALINA OFFERED THE DECK STEPPED MAST IN LIEU OF A KEEL STEPPED MAST as an OPTION in the original brochure.

Deck stepped was listed at $185 more than keel stepped.

so:  EVERYBODY WINS!!!

Thanks to Jim Rose, #1506 (who is smart enough to have "lusted" after a C34 from the time he saved the first Catalina 1985 'offering' b&w brochure to when he bought his brand new boat last year or so, based on his new hull #) and so many of you others, who, with your help, have finally documented the "final answer" to this engaging question.

The roseta stone research was probably harder, but not half as much fun.

Jim Rose also wins the LONGEST LUST PRIZE (we first saw 'our' C34 in 1987 at a boat show in San Francisco;  it only took us 12 years to make the plunge); he beat us by two years in the 'waiting for the best boat ever' category.

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AS TO PRICING:

Jim snail mailed me his original price list, which has confirmed his post on this MB.

You C34 people are all great with your historical reference material.  Please keep up the good work.

I've scanned in the original price list from Jim as a JPG file. I'd be glad to forward it around individually if you email me with a request, and am working on getting it up on the website.

GOOD $$$ News:  for us "good old boat" owners - it was about what we've all paid for our teak wonders (naw, we won't get into inflation and initial value and all that - I'll leave it up to your imaginations - anyway, our boats keep their value based on their inherent worth and your hard work in maintaining them).

BAD $$$ news:  NONE.

Remember, 'they' got Manhattan for $24 from someone.

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It's not what it was then, it's what it is today.

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Thanks everyone for helping out.


Best regards,

Stu Jackson
Catalina 34 IA Secretary

[This message was edited by Stu Jackson #224 1986 "Aquavite" on November 08, 2001 at 09:48 PM.]

In the recent Batteries thread, Ray asked a question about AutoMacs.

See: http://c34.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=936606927

As far as I know, they do not make them anymore.  See below.  Sorry about the formatting but I just cut and pasted from my word processor and these little windows don't do a WYSIWYG.

I wrote this in June 2002 to a C36 member who had asked questions about wiring harnesses and AutoMacs, two very separate subjects.

The wiring harness and the Auto-mac are two separate and mutually exclusive things.
The wiring harness upgrade is a necessity, because of two things: the long run of wiring
from the batteries to the engine panel in the cockpit ammeter wastes a lot of energy
going there and back again through the small wiring. Second, the plugs on the old
harness are a disaster waiting to happen - they wick in moisture, corrode and generally
screw up your boat. The new harness replaces the old plugs with terminal strips, a
much cleaner wire connection. It also replaces the ammeter with a voltmeter, so the
power goes directly to the starter, not all the way back to the engine cockpit control
panel and back again. I strongly urge you to do this ASAP.

The Automac is a completely different function and has absolutely nothing to do with
the wiring harness. On boats of our "distinguished vintage" :) the alternator is a 55 amp Motorola, with an internal regulator. Simplistically, and without getting into a long discussion of battery charging, this means it just puts out a small amount of charge most of the time. At anchor, it would take many hours to recharge your batteries. You
may recall seeing new "Smart Regulators" in the boat store or in catalogs. What these
external regulators do, again simplistically, is tell the alternator to put out as much
charge as they can based on the battery's ability to accept a charge. The Motorola
internal regulator doesn't have a clue as to what the battery condition is.

What the Automac does is "fool" the alternator to put out more amps by interrupting
what is called the field wire, which is the sensing wire of the alternator. This is what the
smart regulators do, albeit with more sophisticated computer algorithms to enhance the
charging process. The Automac does the same thing manually that the newer smart
regulators do automatically. Of course, you need to know a bit about batteries and
charging before you use it to avoid damaging your batteries. With an Automac, you can
significantly reduce the amount of time needed to charge your batteries, say at anchor.

Many of the Catalina dealers installed the Automac during this period. I don't think that
Catalina did it at the factory, although I don't know this for a fact. It doesn't appear as an option on the 1985 C34 price list on the C34 website under the History section.

You can put an Automac on your boat without changing the wiring harness. You can
change the wiring harness without installing an Automac or a newer smart regulator.
The wiring harness solidifies the wiring between the engine panel and the starter, and is
used to get your engine started. The Automac is a manual regulator for charging your
batteries from the alternator after the engine is running.

In a real world situation, you have two choices. Leave your old stock alternator on the
boat and see if you can find an Automac. I doubt if they are still for sale, however a
company called Spa Creek used to make them, and they were taken over by Weems &
Plath. You might try a web search on Google under Weems & Plath and see if they're
still for sale. They're easy to wire and install.

One of the reasons they don't make them anymore is because of the new smart regulators. Accordingly, you also have the choice of buying a new alternator with a smart regulator, like Balmar. Given the age of your boat and the alternator, this may be the way to go for you. I don't believe it is worth it to put a new smart regulator on your old alternator.

I have the M25 21 HP engine, with the old alternator and the Automac. In lieu of
swapping out this rig when we bought the boat 4 years ago, I installed a Freedom 15
combination inverter/charger, took out the old Ferro resonant charger (which you should
also do immediately - separate subject, those old chargers will kill your batteries), and I
will upgrade the alternator when boat bucks allow. The new charger keeps the batteries
in good condition. We haven't done any extended cruising, so the old alternator and
Automac still works fine for us. The age of the alternator is beginning to bother me, so
it's high on my projects list.

A few cautions. Limit the size of your new alternator to no more than 75 to 90 amps.
The reason is the power of your motor, and more importantly the all important main
bearings. These are behind the main pulley on the engine, but deeper inside. Any extra
unnecessary sideways torque could mess these bearings up big time. Many folks have
put 120 amp alternators on their 21 HP Universal engines and had big problems, with
pulley belts and the like. In this case, bigger isn't better.

Stu

PS

They also used to make TWO different models, one for up to 55 amps and another for larger alternators, but that was limited to about 90 amps as I recall.  I'd have to look it up in my old West Marine products catalogs, if anyone is interested.

PPS

They are also described in Calder's Boatowner's Manual.  Some fo the mdoels, mine included, had an automatic over-voltage cutout, which was adjustable.

PPPS

And, last but not least, it wouldn't b me without a reference to a FIND on Automacs:

http://c34.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x?a=search&s=329609511&reqWords=Automac

Another project off the list, and another one added to it!

First a little story, and then a question.

Yesterday, I replaced my old exhaust hose, due to a leak at the bottom of my old 1986 exhaust hose at the Aqua-lift muffler.  I’m keeping my fingers crossed that this is the LAST source of our bilge water, having installed dripless packing, replaced the leaking head outlet valve, trimmed and reseated the aft end of the exhaust hose at the transom thru-hull, and checked all the other sources noted recently in this Message Board.  

Ken Kay reported this same leak-at-the-muffler problem in July 2000, and the old Mailing List had a number of helpful replies from Ron Hill.  If anyone is interested, I can either email them or post them here - please let me know.  

I purchased my new 8 inch long, 1 5/8 inch diameter blue silicone rubber hump hose direct from Catalina a few months ago, and Catalina now has them in stock available for our older boats.  It is my understanding from the old Mailing List correspondence that newer boats may use shorter 5 inch hump hoses.  

My two main concerns had been the condition of both the fiberglass inlet tube at the top of the muffler, and the raw water nipple at the riser.  About 3 inches before the riser ends there is a small nipple that is welded into the riser.  The small 5/8 inch outlet raw water hose from the heat exchanger connects to this nipple and mixes water that cools the exhaust gases before they enter the muffler.  Our leak at the 1 5/8 inch muffler entry could have been from the big old exhaust hose itself or from the fiberglass tube.  The welded connection is notorious as a weak point.  Fortunately, both were in good shape.

As I was removing the old exhaust hose, I found that the main exhaust riser which goes back to the engine manifold has a vertical movement at its end underneath the head sink.  This seemed to make sense to me, since the length of the exhaust manifold pipe and the inlet at the muffler are about two inches or more long each.  The new 8 inch hose needs the extra space, when the main riser is raised as high as it will go, between the bottom of the pipe and the two inch high top of the tube on the muffler to allow you to slip the new hose into the space, up two or three inches onto the riser, adjust it to slip over the muffler intake, and then push down to seat it on the muffler tube.   I did have to rotate the hose clamp at the end of the insulation on the pipe to get the screw of the clamp off to the side to maximize the height of the lift of the riser pipe.  That little bit of extra height gave me room to slide the new hose in, onto the riser and over and down onto the inlet tube.

I sure hope that the exhaust riser is supposed to move!  It seems well seated at the engine connection end.  The good news is that the new hump hose is installed and double clamped, although I did have to trim about 3/8 inch off one end to be able to get it up and over the muffler inlet tube once it was snugged up on the main riser.  

Ron Hill suggests: "don't o ver   tighten the clamps.  I used acid resistant hose clamps which have rolled edges so they are smooth and will not cut into the hose.  I ultimately  used a piece of leather between the hose and the clamp to doubly ensure that the clamp would not cut in to the soft single hump hose."

While I was at it, I wanted to replace the short  5/8 inch raw water hose.  This is the shorter section of the long raw water hose that goes from the heat exchanger to the nipple, the short one that connects from the aft end of the vented loop to the nipple.  I unscrewed the vented loop from the wall under the head sink, left the long water hose from the heat exchanger connected to the vented loop, and removed the old short 5/8 inch hose from both the vented loop and the nipple. Both ends came off easily.  

The metal nipple connection to the main riser looks fine, but the hose was seriously deteriorated, and the upper hose clamp band was cracked in the back (not visible) and was ready to let go at any time.  I suggest that you check all your hose clamps regularly, especially those that are “out of sight, out of mind,” and for sure those that are in hot environments.  Even if the hoses are OK, the clamps could be questionable.

Figuring that replacing this short hose would be an easy task and let me startup the engine to check it all out, I tried to get the new 5/8 inch water hose onto the vented loop with no success at all.  I checked the writing on the old hose, and sure enough it was 5/8 inches, same material.  In order to try to get the mouth of the new hose open a bit more, I inserted a tapered wooden plug into the end and pounded the plug in with a mallet.  I even soaked the wooden plug, hoping it would swell once inside the hose.  I took off the vented loop, and did this work in the cabin, not under the head sink.  After a few hours of no go, I brought both the hose and the vented loop home to see if I could get the hose onto the loop when I had more time.

Question is: Any ideas about how to get the new correctly sized, 5/8 inch new wire reinforced hose end onto the vented loop?

You may remember my earlier post:  

http://c34.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=838600034&r=180606134#180606134

Well, since Ron didn't have any, I went back to Catalina.  I sent Robert a fax, but he sent me the newer kind that don't work.  

My fault for not being specific, so I sent him this:

"For our Catalina 34, hull #224, 1986, we need the older type that has the pin and spring
on the bottom."

Two of them arrived in the mail today!

Part # 10104 "Sink Stropper w/Spring."

This means I can put off the dreaded sink replumbing job, but Cory's beginning to get tired of foot pumping the sink, so...someday soon.

The two lessons learned from the story: ain't it great that the manufacturer is still in business; and why didn't I do that in the first place!  :)

Stu

I was recently looking for covers for my Datamarine instruments.  A few years ago I used the Special Order desk at BoatUS.  However, they no longer carry them and they sent me to a company called Wintron.  They in turn sent me to DMI.  If you need covers or help on Datamarine instruments or for general electronic input, here's the information.  Very helpful folks.

*************

DATAMARINE Instruments

DMI Marine phone -508-564-7491. I spoke to Kelsa. www.dmimarine.com

I was advised that they also have upgrades for existing instruments that will be coming out soon.  That section of their website is under construction.

*************

WIN-TRON Electronics
Barbara J. Lynch
barbara@wintronelectronics.com
800 Route 71
Spring Lake Heights, NJ 07762
Phone:    732-449-4850
Fax:    732-449-4517
Web:    http://www.wintronelectronics.com

One of the first things we did when we got Auqavite was to install stops so that the V berth insert didn't fall out, based on the website's suggestions.

That's in the UP or higher position.

I've recently taken to leaving it in the lower position.  There isn't the same type of 'glass and wood at that lower level to simply install two stops.

Has anybody come up with a simple way to keep the insert from sliding out in the lower position?

Stu

Dave Smith and Mark Elkin have been busy on the website.

I just noticed something on the left hand side main menu called "Discussion Group."

It is: http://www.c34.org/c34disc/index.html

This is a series of topics covered in 1998 to 1999 when we were converting from the old email mailing list over to what became this Message Board.

It says at the top:  

C-34 Discussion Group
[ Contents | Search | Post ]


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In addition to this discussion group, you may wish to join the active owner's mailing list, devoted strictly to technical and operational issues of the Catalina 34, and to serve as a means of notifying C34 owners of updates to the C34 website.  For information on the mailing list, click here.

The following articles reflect those posted on and after October 4, 1999.  To search and view older articles go to Old Articles.
 

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PLEASE DON'T use that Discussion Group for any NEW quesions.

PLEASE STAY HERE  :) and use THIS Message Board.

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I just wanted to let you know that this valuable additional resource is there, and the topics are clearly marked for your review.

The only way I could get into that old section of the website [which has always BEEN there, but not clearly marked on the menu until now] was by using some of my old "Favorites" in my browser.

Have fun, and thanks again to the webmaster and all those of you who continue to work on the 'site.

Best regards,

Stu

As a NEW feature, we're pleased to keep you posted on the upcoming technical articles being produced by our Technical Editor, Steve Lyle (#75).  Your assistance in providing Steve with your upgrades (and pictures) is what makes this C34 community so great and informative.  Please keep contributing.

We plan to post upcoming notices every quarter before the magazine comes out.  Remember, as a member of the International C34 Association, you have access ONLINE to ALL of the Tech Notes ever made, since 1987!  Usually the new articles are posted a month or so after publication.  You also receive a FREE CD-ROM of the website and the tech notes up to March 2001.

International C34 Assoc. membership includes a half price discount on membership in BOAT/US.

Plus you get to put up with me suggesting using Find and Search!  What more could you ask for? :)

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Here's what's new from Steve:

February 03 has:

- How to calculate forestay tension using a Loos guage on the backstay bridle - a basic intro to engineering statics

- Fabricating sliding doors for the upper shelves in the cabin - for those than can't get enough black plastic in their cabin

- Replacing the exhaust riser - illustrated - by Stu Jackson.  (I particularly like the part where he hired someone else to do all the work).
{Note: Steve, c'mon, not ALL the work - I did hand him some tools and run out to get some parts!)  :) }

- Ron's bit on the proper transmission position when sailing - for all of us that didn't keep around the Hurst labels

- A 'heard on the web' bit about ignoring the Universal manual/directions that tell you to keep the glow plug switch engaged when you crank the engine
 
3,300 words or so, with 12 pictures

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Also, remember, that in addition to the tech notes in Mainsheet, there are articles in the main section of the magazine about C34s.  Good reading.  

As I also noted earlier, both here and in Mainsheet, many other boats share our systems.  I encourage you to read their sections in Mainsheet, too.  I also note that there are many other Catalina owners (i.e., C30, C36 and others) who use this 'site for information and guidance.  Their contributions here are very welcome and helpful to us all.

Look for the new February 2004 Mainsheet in your mailboxes soon.

Enjoy, and best regards,

Stu

In a recent post on an old subject, Complete Fuel Filtration, at http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1213.0.html
there was a bit of a discussion later on in that long thread about the use of the bottom drain plug.  I mentioned that I thought that there were dissimilar metals between the housing and plug itself, and recommended using the top plug to extract and refill the transmission fluid.

Turns out that I was wrong.  Here's the real story from Ron Hill:

Transmission Drain Plug:  I've always recommended that people let it alone if it's not leaking, as fooling around with it will surely make it leak - if not worse. The plug is made of a harder alloy than that of the  aluminum case.  If you over tighten/over torque you know which threads will strip first - not the plug!

The location of the plug is underneath where you can't see it, so you remove/replace it by feel.  It's a tough place to get to.
The Aluminum washer is a one time compression type washer - how many people are going to replace it with a new one each time they remove/reinsert the plug?  The top plug/dipstick has the same washer, but the top plug doesn't need to really be tight as it won't leak.

Then there's the location of the drain.  When the transmission is completely full (winter storage) it holds a little over a quart of fluid.  That means (in the spring) you'll need some kind of skinny container that will go
underneath to catch that quart + of fluid.  I doubt that most can catch all that fluid without a big mess.

So, all in all - As I've done for the past 16 years, I'd recommend that an owner suck out the transmission fluid from the top (just like they suck out the engine oil) and not take the chance of screwing up that transmission
drain plug.

Thanks, Ron.

Stu

Last week IA C34 member Gary Solari in Bellingham, WA, and I had an off line email chat about fuel filters.  He had lost engine power and traded out his secondary filter under sail to get some power, but ended up sailing back into his slip.  I had to do the same thing on Friday.  Our first thought on Friday was that it was a prop problem.

I remembered that there is a fuel filter in the bowl of the electic pump.  Don't forget that one when you change your fuel filters.

Yesterday I replaced the fuel filters.  There was so much GUNK in the electric fuel pump filter bowl that I'm surprised the engine ran at all for the last six months!  

It really is silly how they pipe the tank to the pump first, and I scoped out a way to rearrange the existing hoses to feed the Racor first, then the pump.  

This is recommended by all sorts of "authorities" including Racor in their filter manual.  The electric pump would still work to suck fuel through the Racor and prime it after you "correct" the hoses, so it shouldn't be a problem to rearrange the hoses.  

The hand pump on my Racor wasn't very cooperative, and I got a blister on my right thumb trying to get it open, the hand pump.  Then the little light bulb came on and I used the electrical pump.  Bleeding downstream was easy at the bolt on the top of the secondary filter housing and the injector knob.  Started right up.  Extra bonus was that I cleaned out half of the port locker, since the plate in there is to give access to the fuel line shutoff valve.

Today I'll take her out for a spin and see how it goes.  I'm pretty sure now that it's not a prop problem.  

I also changed the transmission fluid, a nice stand on your head project if there ever was one.  Used one of those turkey basters and a length of small clear plastic tubing, duct taped the hose to the baster to suck the old stuff out, accessed through the big hole under the aft cabin cushions.  New fluid went in through another hose from the top.  There has been some input written on the C34 website to NOT use the bottom drain on the transmission casing.

Chargers & Batteries:  C34 Electrical Systems

I'm starting a NEW thread here.  If you add "C34 Electrical Systems" to your posts, it'll be a lot easier to search for them in the future.

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At the end of a long thread started by Rich, the following posts appeared:

Paul (Yachta Yachta Yachta #1634, )'03'
Registered User
  posted October 26, 2003 05:11 AM  
I am sitting here reading about the batteries and replacements for the batteries. I do have some concerns, a friend of mine a couple of slips down also owns a 2000 C34 and has to repalce his batteries next season. Since this is my first season with my 2003 C34 I am wondering will I also be replacing mine in three years. Sould I be thinking of replacements?

Paul
Posts: 4 |  Registered: April 21, 2003  
 
 
 
Norris Johnson #1408 1998 "Mariposa"
Registered User
  posted October 26, 2003 07:55 AM  
Paul,
I had the same problem with my batteries, but the problem wasn't with the batteries, it was the charger. It is a 20 amp Flyback and it was overcharging the 2 4d's that came with my boat. I sent the charger back to the factory and it was repaired. The cost of repair was related to the age of the charger. It was ~ 75 bucks.
Posts: 63 |  Registered: October 08, 2001  
 
 
 
Paul (Yachta Yachta Yachta #1634, )'03'
Registered User
  posted October 26, 2003 09:05 AM  
How do I know if my charger can cause the problem is there a serial # or a recall on the charger. I heard of problems on some of the 2000 boats C36's in particular.

Paul
 
 
The basic answers to your questions about battery life are:

1.  The battery chargers installed by Catalina are poor at best (read s*ck), and WILL kill your batteries.  Charles or Flyback.  You should expect at least five or more years from carefully maintained batteries which can ONLY be accomplished with a quality, three stage charger.  So far the ONLY one this community of C34 owners has found is the Statpower Truecharge, in 20 or 40 amp models, now made by Xantrex.  These are standalone chargers.  The Trace or Heart Inverter Charger combinations also have great chargers.  {There was no recall on the Flyback - read the posts noted below - it was and remains a piece of junk - get rid of it, it is killing your batteries.  Same for the Charles, even if you just bought a brannd new boat.}

2.  Enlarging your house battery bank as large as you can make it.  The larger a house bank, the less percentage is drawn down each time it is used, thus extending the life of the batteries.

3.  A good alternator with a newer three stage external regulator will reduce charging times and keep your batteries healthy.  The factory installed alternator will do almost nothing to charge your batteries, but unless run for hours on end, will usually do batteries little harm.  If you depend on your alternator to recharge your batteries at anchor, and you haven't upgraded to a higher output alternator with a new external regulator (or done the same adjustments to the regulator on your stock alternator), you will get relatively little output (except for the first few minutes) and the alternator at anchor will be essentially useless.

Three years on a set of batteries should be considered absolutely unacceptable.  Norris is right, it's the charger.

The cost of a quality charger far outweighs the cost of replacing batteries.

Using the FIND feature of this message board, please do a little research to answer your questions.

Start with this:

http://c34.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=srch&s=329609511&findw=charger

It came from a Find request on "charger."

Do the same for batteries, alternators and the other associated parts of electrical systems, like electrical.  Also do a FIND on the word REDUX, it will get you to the discussion on Charles chargers, which Catalina is still using, unfortunately.

You'll find that a lot of discussion has already taken place on just these issues.  You can type out a printr friendly version of the posts or the seach lists and easily get back to them to read again later.

Also, buy and read Calder's Boatowner's Manual, as I've previously suggested.  The $50 for this book will save you untold headaches, and answer a lot of the questions you are going to ask.  The return on your investment for the book will be about 2 weeks, the amount of time it'll take you to read it - four hours if you just stay with the electrical parts  :)

While we're all here to answer your questions, I don't think that this 'site or the messsage board, was designed or intended to reiterate the basics that are much better covered in books already published.  The best we can do, and all we aim to do, is help out with C34 related issues.  

Electrical systems cover all boats, ours included :), while C34s and Catalinas, have, unfortunately, come with all-too-basic electrical systems, and that includes the ones being produced today.

The subject of boat electrical systems is complicated, and no two boats are exactly the same, based on useage and experience.  It is also, for older boats, depdendent on what electrical equipment was available when the PO performed his last electrical upgrade, if any.

Do you hang in marinas, or do you want to be out on the hook?  The answers to those questions will determine the answer that is right for YOU and your unique situation as far as your overall electrical system is concerned.

The best things to do to keep your batteries healthy were noted above.

Good luck is a misnomer for this subject.  Luck should NOT play a part in it at all.  If it does, that's when electrical problems start.

Happy research and I'd be glad to answer any more specific questions as they may come up.

Stu

The two sink stoppers finally broke.  They were the kind with the spring on the bottom and the straight pin with the tabs (which broke off) sticking through into the sink drain fitting.  We liked them because when one was in, one sink wouldn't drain into the other.

Has anyone found a replacement for these? (1986 boat).

We did buy 1 5/8 inch rubber sink stoppers, but they get pushed up by water from the draining sink.  We're looking to keep one sink dry, but still have the easy ability to use both.

Stu

A few weeks ago I had replaced my 18 year old exhaust riser and installed a new
3 inch heat exchanger on our 1986 boat.

About a week after that, we noticed that the engine was running rough.  There
was more vibration than we had ever experienced, at every different throttle level,
and the engine seemed to be very rough at idle, which dropped from 800 to 600
rpm on the tachometer.

Yesterday, I dove into the aft cabin access "hole" and checked things out.

Imagine my surprise when I found two of the four bolts and nuts that connect the
transmission coupling to the propeller shaft coupling sitting, rusted, on the hull just
below the coupling flanges.  One of the remaining two nuts and bolts were loose.

I purchased new bolts and nuts and reinstalled them today.  I also noted that the
bolts were inserted from the aft side going forward, which made starting the nuts
on the forward side quite difficult.  It wasn't until I got home that I considered
trying to install the bolts from forward so that the nuts could be started from the
side I could see, although I don't know if there is enough space to do that.

I most also should have put some light or medium Lock Tight on the bolts.  Any
input about whether or not this is a good idea?  I'll be sure to check them regularly.
(Only, and not valid, excuse, was we had a bunch of stuff in the garage during
the summer.)

Engine hours: 1417.  Bolts were 3/8 inch hex nuts FINE THREAD, about an inch or an inch and
a half long.  Maybe not a bad idea to have some spares.

So, in addition to engine alignment, stuffing box stuff and other weird noises, be
sure to check your flange nuts and bolts on a reasonably regular basis.

Trial run showed all is well, now.

Stu

I'm doing a research project and would appreciate your help.

The challenge is to find the 1986 hull number when Catalina changed from the original deck stepped mast to the keel stepped version.

Historically, we have been led to understand that the change occurred in 1987.  However, our boat, #224, with hull number CTYP0224F686, which means it was "born" in June 1986, has a keel stepped mast.

For those of you with Good Old Boats from 1986, please let us know what kind you have and what your hull number and month are, and perhaps we can add another bit of folklore to the many chapters in this Great Book of C34s.

Thanks,  Stu
Catalina 34 International Secretary

Mike wrote:  Quick Update: Reinstalled new exhaust riser/hump hose today and ran the engine for the first time since modification.

Mike:

Did you just do the HH or the new riser?  I just got a new SS riser from CY, and they built one for me with a turn at the inboard end so that the SS goes all the way forward to the engine manifold flange.

Did you DIY?

Any issues in connecting the new riser to the flange?

Would be interested to know - my next week's project.

Thanks,

Stu

May have bbeen covered in one of Ron Hill's Tech Notes, but for your information:

Question:

I have an M25 Universal and believe it is a D850 Kabota. I have the Universal manuals and know the Universal Part Numbers for the fuel injectors I am looking to replace. When I call various Kabota dealers they won't help unless I know the Kabota part numbers. The Universal numbers are 298787 and 298788. Can anyone help?

Answer:  

The injectors are Nippon Denso injectors, i.e., not made by Kubota. The number on the ones I removed was 093500-1560 (the ones I installed are -1570 - I don't know what the difference is).

The reason for two different Universal P/Ns is a banjo nut for the fuel return with either one or two nipples. No matter, since this part won't come with the new Denso injectos, just use the old ones over again.

Universal price is about $200. Rebuild cost quoted locally is $84.00. I bought my replacements for $73.00, LESS than the cost of rebuilding the old ones! Search the web.


Stu

(flagrantly stolen from another source)

This is a reminder, for folks (new and 'previously experienced')  who are renewing older boats and improving their alternator charging systems.

Fan blades on the Balmar alternators SERIOUSLY CONFLICT with the standards alternatpr bracket.

In lieu of going crazy, remember we've all been there before.

Try this link to an earlier post on this board:

http://c34.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=290609811&r=390609811#390609811

Nice to know you don't have to reinvent the wheel.

Stu

This was just posted on the sailnet board, which has seen some small increase in volume, like six posts in two weeks.

I thought it was important enough to post here, to see if this board can respond to David's question, too.

Thanks,

Stu

************************************************************************************************

 

Subj: [C34] Engine Alarm Problems
Date: 5/23/2003 9:07:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From:    holderdm@kreative.net (David and Marcia Holder)
Reply-to: c34-list@sailnet.net
To:    c34-list@sailnet.net (C34)
 


I'm having difficulty understanding the engine alarm (buzzer) on my 1990
C34 with the M25XP Universal engine.  We bought the boat three years
ago.  Neither the manual that came with the boat nor the shop manual
talk about the engine alarm.  It sounds when you turn the ignition key
on and usually stops after the engine is started. As near as I can tell,
it calls attention to three problems: overheating, low oil pressure, and
low or no voltage from the alternator. I came to that conclusion after
thinking I might have an oil pressure problem.  Oil pressure tested
fine; but the buzzer continued to sound off at times depending on how we
wiggled wires on the printed circuit board attached  to the back of the
temperature gauge.  Thinking the buzzer was faulty we wired the oil
pressure switch to an indicator light.  All was quite and beautiful as
the light went out soon after the engine started and oil pressure built
up. But the next day the buzzer began sounding again when the ignition
is turned on and the buzzer seems to come on at random.  Now we notice
that our alternator is not charging the batteries.  I'm thinking that
low alternator output has been the problem all along.  Can anyone shine
some light on these mysteries and how to solve them?

David Holder
Morning Star
#1096

Has anyone installed one?  

If so, what brand?  

Centralized or decentralized (modular)?  

Where did you install it and what piping was associated with it.

What reasons led to the installation?

Has anybody done this?  Put a newer three stage regulator on an old stock 55 amp Motorola alternator?  

Or do you have to get a new alternator with no internal regulation?

Yes, it's that time of year again, back in the water.

FYI, I now have a supply of C34 Burgees, $17 each.

Stu Jackson
Catalina 34 International Secretary
222 Wildwood Avenue
Piedmont, CA 94610-1102
510-208-1906
fax: 510-465-7927
email: sec@c34.org or mraquaq@aol.com
#224 1986 Aquavite :cool:

Over the years, more horror stories have been written about losing the danged caps over the side because of the lanyards, or the breaking thereof.

Yesterdays post gave a source for the older plastic caps.

Given the problems experienced, we have taken to BREAKING THE CHAIN and placing the caps in a secure location whenever we atke one off, and not depending on the little chains EVER.  Besides, especially for the pumpout cap, they get in the way.  Why bother?

It's a great way to save a few bucks for something else that's really necessary for your boat.

Surfing the net and found that Catalina Direct has the Replacement Deck Pipe Caps
 
Red - Fuel Z1874  $10.95
Blue -Water  Z1872  $10.95
Black - Waste Z1873 $10.95
(December 2000 prices)

See them at:
http://www.catalinadirect.com/Deck%20Pipe%20Caps.html

Tip:  You can make them last longer in the sun by rubbing sun tan lotion on them!

Best regards,

Stu Jackson
Catalina 34 International Secretary

There has been an incredible amount of personal and professional effort that has gone into the construction of this new method of communication.

Things change, we learn to live with them, and by that process we all can grow, together.

Once I learn how the spell check works on this thing, I could be dangerous!

Have fun, all of us, because if you're not typing you should be SAILING YOUR C34.

This is fun, makes me not miss PONG anymore.

Stu