Messages

I use 3/8 for the sheets and 7/16 for the halyard, however I have a new Sampson Xls extra jib halyard and would use the 3/8" xls extra if I were doing it again. Plain dacron double braid is fine for the sheets and 7/16 dacron is cheaper than the low stretch stuff. Unlike jib and main halyards, the stretch isn't as important on the spinnaker.

If you want performance reaching, you need an adjustable tack. I rigged a 3:1 led to a cam clete on the side of the cabin near the cockpit. A single line extends from the forward block to through a single block attached to the anchor roller structure. I'd probably do a 4:1 if I were doing it again but it works very effectively and permits about 6 ft of tack adjustment. In smooth water, letting the tack off will let you go much deeper downwind.

Are there any other C34s doing this race on April 25th? SchatzSea's entered in class K. We have raced cruising class twice and once as PHRF spinnaker class. This will be our 2nd year in PHRF. Like to hear from others doing the race.

Dave, thanks for the quick reply. We're getting a lot of rain this week, but I plan to add outside tracks as soon as it dries up. I don't know why Catalina puts the track as far back as they do, but fortunately (or unfortunately) I have no outside tracks now. Do you find you need the entire 8 ft track length. If not, where would you suggest putting a shorter track?
Thanks,
Bill

Has anyone added tracks on the toe rails to a C34? Is there sufficient access to the bolts from the inside? For those with tracks and using a poled out spinnaker, should the tracks start closer to the bow than factory installed tracks to permit a snatch block on the guy forward of the upper shroud while reaching?

George
SchatzSea #1031 (1990)

Hal,

Just wanted you to know that those of us in Southern California don't need no heater or A/C to keep us confortable. We need to spend our money on something! We had crew in shorts for the New Years day race.

Happy New Year!

I love the pods. They can be angled so that you can see the instruments from either weather rail. I have a Windspeed in the port pod and a Tri-data on the other. This seems an ideal setup except for the crew who are forward of the helm.

I have received good support from UK and Ullman here in San Diego but know that North and Quantum both also have good people and products. I don't think you'll go wrong with any of the local lofts.

I bought a .75 oz, tri-radial asymetrical chute from UK 3 yrs ago and I believe is fine for San Diego weather conditions. If you have a 155 genoa, you probably should consider the lighter chute. BTW, dealing with a sailmaker gives you someone to ask questions like this and has an interest in your future business. Happy Sailing!

See if your bilge pump outlet is below waterline when motoring. I believe that it may be if you are heavily loaded aft - full fuel tank and aft water tank. The answer is probably extending a service loop in the pump outlet hose above the water line. If this is the case, the bilge pump should be cycling frequently. This can happen on a MK1 with walk-thru transon. I don't know about the other stern designs.

Andy,

Thanks for sending the outhaul image. I converted it to pdf and put it at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~gwsedgwick/outhaul.pdf
should anyone else need it.

George Sedgwick
SchatzSea #1031

Has anyone scanned and posted this figure to replace Ron's missing image. I need to fix my outhaul and would like to know what to expect when I open the boom. Thanks.

Charlie,

I had to reply since you boat's almost a the same age as mine. SchatzSea is #1031. You can find the standard calculations for spinakers on the PHRF site: http://www.phrfsocal.org/7.htm. For the asymetrical, these are:

Asymmetrical Spinnaker SLU shall not exceed 1.15 times the square root of (Ic² + Jc²)

Asymmetrical Spinnaker SF shall not exceed 1.8 x Jc

Asymmetrical Spinnaker ASMW shall not exceed 1.8 x Jc

Asymmetrical Spinnaker ASMW/SF ratio shall be equal to or greater than 0.75

I have both a asymmetrical and a symmetrical spinnaker. In my experience, the best performance of a asymmetrical is limited basically to a beam reach. I find that from 70 to 110 (indicated) it is great and better than a spinnaker. However, the spinnaker can sail much deeper. In good wind, the best VMG can be as deep as 170 degrees.

You mention the whisker pole. That is a way to make the asymmetrical sail deeper but I haven't used one with my asymmetrical. If I expect the wind to go below 110, I rig the spinnaker with a rigid pole. One of the best arguments for an asymmeterical is that, without the pole, you don't risk anyone being hit and injured by it. Here the PHRF calculations for poles:

Spinnaker pole shall not exceed 100% of J

Whisker pole maximum length shall not exceed 1.4 x J

I have 6' of track with an adjustable car on the front of my mask. Seems about right for the spinnaker.

If you add the asymmetrical, I believe an adjustable tack is essential. I have a 3:1 advantage led to a cleat in the cockpit. The forward single block has a becket and a single line leading to a block forward of the forstay. It gives about 6' of adjustment to the tack. The aft block is attached to the stantion near the port shrouds. This seems to be a great cruising setup.

Good luck,

Bill Sedgwick
SchatzSea #1031

I've had no problems. My cruise speed is the same as before with my 3 bladed prop but at approx 500 rpms higher - however the engine turns approx 500 rpms higher now so the top end is about the same. I normally expect 7.1 kts at 2350 rpms when motoring ('90 M35 engine). I took the recommendations of the prop shops and boat yards here in San Diego who all recommended Max Prop. I bought from PYI and have been satisified. Yes, part of the shaft needs to be cut. But since I don't expect to reinstall the 3-blade prop it is no problem. Reverse power is immediate and just like forward. It's very easy to stop the boat.
Drag while sailing is hard to measure - I'm sure it's less but I can only say that my light air performance seems improved. The prop's beautiful and is installed on Swans and other very expensive yachts. I believe that the cost is the only negative I can report.

I hope you will post a photo. I've thought of making one and would love to see your floor before I begin.

I am having a full hoist genoa made for the light air here in San Diego. It will not be roller furled. One problem I have encountered is the luff track in the Hood forestay extrusion. The slot has relatively sharp edges and the opening is very close to the swivel when it is on top of the roller assembly. Hood sales a cast feeder extrusion assembly, however I am unable to determine if the swivel would drop below it. Has anyone experience with this feeder or can you suggest alternative means to leave the swivel down when hoisting the genoa. All inputs greatly appreciated. Obviously, I want to maintain the furler for cruising, but if I'm gonna race, full hoist must be the way to go.

Get Brian Toss's "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice". It shows details of the splice. Sta-Set-X is his favorite hayard material.

I had written a detailed response, but skipped the Username and it got deleted. I miss email!

BTW, I have used Toss's book for double braid and spectra and the procedures are clear and I've been successful.

George Sedgwick
SchatzSea 1031